Arcos de la Frontera • Ronda • Zahara and Grazalema • Jerez
Map: Arcos de la Frontera’s Old Town
Map: Route of the White Hill Towns
Just as the American image of Germany is Bavaria, the Yankee dream of Spain is Andalucía. This is the home of bullfights, flamenco, gazpacho, pristine whitewashed hill towns, and glamorous Mediterranean resorts. The big cities of Andalucía (Granada, Sevilla, and Córdoba) and the South Coast (Costa del Sol) are covered in separate chapters. This chapter explores Andalucía’s hill-town highlights.
The Route of the White Hill Towns (Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos), Andalucía’s charm bracelet of cute towns perched in the sierras, gives you wonderfully untouched Spanish culture. Spend a night in the romantic queen of the white towns, Arcos de la Frontera. (Towns with “de la Frontera” in their names were established on the front line of the centuries-long fight to recapture Spain from the Muslims, who were slowly pushed back into Africa.) Farther east, the larger town of Ronda stuns visitors with its breathtaking setting—straddling a gorge that thrusts deep into the Andalusian bedrock. Ronda’s venerable old bullring, smattering of enjoyable sights, and thriving tapas scene round out its charms. Smaller hill towns, such as Zahara and Grazalema, offer plenty of beauty. As a whole, the hill towns—no longer strategic, no longer on any frontier—are now just passing time peacefully. Join them.
Between Sevilla and the hill towns, the city of Jerez—teeming with traffic and lacking in charm—is worth a peek for its famous Horse Symphony and a glass of sherry on a sherry bodega tour.
To study ahead, visit www.andalucia.com for information on hotels, festivals, museums, nightlife, and sports in the region.
On a three-week vacation in Spain, Andalucía’s hill towns are worth two nights and up to two days sandwiched between visits to Sevilla and Tarifa. Arcos makes the best home base, as it’s close to interesting smaller towns, near Jerez, and conveniently situated halfway between Sevilla and Tarifa. The towns can also be accessed from the Costa del Sol resorts via Ronda.
See Jerez on your way in or out, spend a day hopping from town to town in the more remote interior (including Grazalema and Zahara), and enjoy Arcos early and late in the day. For more details on exploring this region by car, see “Route Tips for Drivers” at the end of this chapter.
Without a car, keep things simple and focus only on Arcos and Jerez (both well-served by frequent-enough public buses from Sevilla). Ronda, however, is also easy to visit—right on a train line.
Spring and fall are high season throughout this area. In summer you’ll encounter intense heat, but empty hotels, lower prices, and no crowds.
Arcos smothers its long, narrow hilltop and tumbles down the back of the ridge like the train of a wedding dress. It’s larger than most other Andalusian hill towns, but equally atmospheric. Arcos consists of two towns: the fairy-tale old town on top of the hill and the fun-loving lower, or new, town. The old center is a labyrinthine wonderland, a photographer’s feast. Viewpoint-hop through town. Feel the wind funnel through the narrow streets as cars inch around tight corners. Join the kids’ soccer game on the churchyard patio. Enjoy the moonlit view from the main square.
Though it tries, Arcos doesn’t have much to offer other than its basic whitewashed self. The locally produced English guidebook on Arcos waxes poetic and at length about very little. You can arrive late and leave early and still see it all.
The main TI, on the road leading up into the old town, is helpful and loaded with information, including bus schedules (Mon-Sat 9:30-14:00 & 15:00-19:30, Sun 10:00-14:00; Cuesta de Belén 5, tel. 956-702-264, www.turismoarcos.es). On the floors above the TI is a skippable local history museum called Centro de Interpretación Ciudad de Arcos (CICA), with sparse exhibits described only in Spanish.
The TI organizes a one-hour walking tour through the old town, covering Arcos’ history, lifestyles, and Moorish influences. It includes the history museum and gives you a peek at a private courtyard patio (€4; Mon-Sat at 11:00; also at 18:00 but only if you reserve ahead, 5-person minimum—off-season at 17:00; none on Sun, meet at main TI, in Spanish and/or English; for private tours, call TI).
There’s also a small TI kiosk at the top of Plaza de España, handy for those parking in the pay lot there (Mon-Sat 10:30-13:30 & 16:30-19:30, Sun 10:30-13:30).
By Bus: The bus station is on Calle Corregidores, at the foot of the hill. To get up to the old town, catch the shuttle bus marked Centro from inside the station (€1, pay driver, 2/hour, runs roughly Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-14:30, none on Sun), hop a taxi (€5 fixed rate; if there are no taxis waiting, call 956-704-640), or hike 20 uphill minutes (see map).
By Car: The old town is a tight squeeze with a one-way traffic flow from west to east (coming from the east, circle south under town). The TI and my recommended hotels are in the west. If you miss your target, you must drive out the other end, double back, and try again. Driving in Arcos is like threading needles (many drivers pull in their side-view mirrors to buy a few extra precious inches). Turns are tight, parking is frustrating, and congestion can lead to long jams.
Small cars can park in the main square of the old town at the top of the hill (Plaza del Cabildo). Buy a ticket from the machine (€0.70/hour, 2-hour maximum, only necessary Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00 and Sat 9:00-14:00—confirm times on machine).
It’s less stressful (and better exercise) to park in the modern underground pay lot at Plaza de España in the new town (€15/day). From this lot, hike 15 minutes, or catch a taxi or the shuttle bus up to the old town (2/hour; as you’re looking uphill, the bus stop is to the right of the traffic circle).
The old town is easily walkable, but it’s fun and relaxing to take a circular minibus joyride. The little shuttle bus (also mentioned in “Arrival in Arcos,” above) constantly circles through the town’s one-way system and around the valley (€1, 2/hour, runs roughly Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-14:30, none on Sun). For a 30-minute tour, hop on. You can catch it just below the main church in the old town near the mystical stone circle (generally departs roughly at :20 and :50 past the hour). Sit in the front seat for the best view of the tight squeezes and the school kids hanging out in the plazas as you wind through the old town. After passing under a Moorish gate, you enter a modern residential neighborhood, circle under the eroding cliff, and return to the old town by way of the bus station and Plaza de España.
Internet Access: Most hotels have Wi-Fi for guests, and some also have guest computers. There’s no real Internet café in Arcos’ old town, but the TI has a terminal where you can pay to get online (€0.40 for 15 minutes, €1 for first hour, €0.20/hour after that).
Post Office: It’s at the lower end of the old town at Paseo de los Boliches 24, a few doors up from Hotel Los Olivos (Mon-Fri 8:30-14:30, Sat 9:30-13:00, closed Sun).
Money: There are no ATMs in the old town. To reach one, take the main street past the Church of Santa María toward Plaza de España; you’ll find several ATMs along Calle Corredera.
Viewpoint: For drivers, the best town overlook is from a tiny park just beyond the new bridge on the El Bosque road. In town, there are some fine viewpoints (for instance, from the main square), but the church towers are no longer open to the public.
(See “Arcos de la Frontera’s Old Town” map, here.)
This walk will introduce you to virtually everything worth seeing in Arcos.
• Start at the top of the hill, in the main square dominated by the church. (Avoid this walk during the hot midday siesta.)
Plaza del Cabildo: Stand at the viewpoint opposite the church on the town’s main square. Survey the square, which in the old days doubled as a bullring. On your right is the parador, a former palace of the governor. It flies three flags: green for Andalucía, red-and-yellow for Spain, and blue-and-yellow for the European Union. On your left are City Hall, below the 11th-century Moorish castle where Ferdinand and Isabel held Reconquista strategy meetings (castle privately owned and closed to the public).
Now belly up to the railing and look down. The people of Arcos boast that only they see the backs of the birds as they fly. Ponder the parador’s erosion concerns (it lost part of its lounge in the 1990s when it dropped right off), the orderly orange groves, and fine views toward Morocco. The city council considered building an underground parking lot to clear up the square, but nixed it because of the land’s fragility. You’re 330 feet above the Guadalete River. This is the town’s suicide departure point for men (women jump from the other side).
• Looming over the square is the...
Church of Santa María: After Arcos was retaken from the Moors in the 13th century, this church was built atop a mosque. Notice the church’s fine but chopped-off bell tower. The old one fell in the earthquake of 1755 (famous for destroying Lisbon). The replacement was intended to be the tallest in Andalucía after Sevilla’s—but money ran out. It looks like someone lives on an upper floor. Someone does—the church guardian resides there in a room strewn with bell-ringing ropes.
Buy a ticket (€2, Mon-Fri 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, shorter hours in winter, closed Sun and Jan-Feb), and step into the center, where you can see the beautifully carved choir. The organ was built in 1789 with that many pipes. At the very front of the church, the nice Renaissance high altar—carved in wood—covers up a Muslim prayer niche that survived from the older mosque. The altar shows God with a globe in his hand (on top), and scenes from the life of Jesus (on the right) and Mary (left). Circle the church counterclockwise and notice the elaborate chapels. Although most of the architecture is Gothic, the chapels are decorated in Baroque and Rococo styles. The ornate statues are used in Holy Week processions. Sniff out the “incorruptible body” (miraculously never rotting) of St. Felix—a third-century martyr (directly across from the entry). Felix may be nicknamed “the incorruptible,” but take a close look at his knee. He’s no longer skin and bones...just bones and the fine silver mesh that once covered his skin. Rome sent his body here in 1764, after recognizing this church as the most important in Arcos. In the back of the church, under a huge fresco of St. Christopher (carrying his staff and Baby Jesus), is a gnarly Easter candle from 1767.
• Back outside, examine the...
Church Exterior: Circle clockwise around the church, down four steps, to find the third-century Roman votive altar with a carving of the palm tree of life directly in front of you. Though the Romans didn’t build this high in the mountains, they did have a town and temple at the foot of Arcos. This carved stone was discovered in the foundation of the original Moorish mosque, which stood here before the first church was built.
Head down a few more steps and come to the main entrance (west portal) of the church (closed for restoration). This is a good example of Plateresque Gothic—Spain’s last and most ornate kind of Gothic.
In the pavement, notice the 15th-century magic circle with 12 red and 12 white stones—the white ones have various “constellations” marked (though they don’t resemble any of today’s star charts). When a child would come to the church to be baptized, the parents stopped here first for a good Christian exorcism. The exorcist would stand inside the protective circle and cleanse the baby of any evil spirits. While locals no longer do this (and a modern rain drain now marks the center), many Sufi Muslims still come here in a kind of pilgrimage every November. (Down a few more steps and 10 yards to the left, you can catch the public bus for a circular minibus joyride through Arcos; see “Getting Around Arcos,” earlier.)
Continuing along under the flying buttresses, notice the scratches of innumerable car mirrors on each wall (and be glad you’re walking). The buttresses were built to shore up the church when it was damaged by an earthquake in 1699. (Thanks to these supports, the church survived the bigger earthquake of 1755.) The security grille (over the window above) protected cloistered nuns when this building was a convent. Look at the arches that prop up the houses downhill on the left; all over town, arches support earthquake-damaged structures.
• Now make your way...
From the Church to the Market: Completing your circle around the church (huffing back uphill), turn left under more arches built to repair earthquake damage and walk east down the bright, white Calle Escribanos. From now to the end of this walk, you’ll basically follow this lane until you come to the town’s second big church (St. Peter’s). After a block, you hit Plaza Boticas.
On your right is the last remaining convent in Arcos. Notice the no-nunsense, spiky window grilles high above, with tiny peepholes in the latticework for the cloistered nuns to see through. Step into the lobby under the fine portico to find their one-way mirror and a spinning cupboard that hides the nuns from view. Push the buzzer, and one of the eight sisters (several are from Kenya and speak English well) will spin out some boxes of excellent, freshly baked cookies—made from pine nuts, peanuts, almonds, and other nuts—for you to consider buying (€6-7, open daily but not reliably 8:30-14:30 & 17:00-19:00; be careful—if you stand big and tall to block out the light, you can actually see the sister through the glass). If you ask for magdalenas, bags of cupcakes will swing around (€2.50). These are traditional goodies made from natural ingredients. Buy some goodies to support their church work, and give them to kids as you complete your walk.
The covered market (mercado) at the bottom of the plaza (down from the convent) resides in an unfinished church. At the entry, notice what is half of a church wall. The church was being built for the Jesuits, but construction stopped in 1767 when King Charles III, tired of the Jesuit appetite for politics, expelled the order from Spain. The market is closed on Sunday and Monday—they rest on Sunday, so there’s no produce, fish, or meat ready for Monday. Poke inside. It’s tiny but has everything you need. Pop into the servicio público (public WC)—no gender bias here.
• As you exit the market, turn right and continue straight down Calle Botica...
From the Market to the Church of St. Peter: As you walk, peek discreetly into private patios. These wonderful, cool-tiled courtyards filled with plants, pools, furniture, and happy family activities are typical of Arcos. Except in the mansions, these patios are generally shared by several families. Originally, each courtyard served as a catchment system, funneling rainwater to a drain in the middle, which filled the well. You can still see tiny wells in wall niches with now-decorative pulleys for the bucket.
At the next corner (Calle Platera), look back and up at the corner of the tiled rooftop on the right. The tiny stone—where the corner hits the sky—is a very eroded mask, placed here to scare evil spirits from the house. This is Arcos’ last surviving mask from a tradition that lasted until the mid-19th century.
Also notice the ancient columns on each corner. All over town, these columns—many actually Roman, appropriated from their original ancient settlement at the foot of the hill—were put up to protect buildings from reckless donkey carts and tourists in rental cars.
As you continue straight, notice that the walls are scooped out on either side of the windows. These are a reminder of the days when women stayed inside but wanted the best possible view of any people action in the streets. These “window ears” also enabled boys in a more modest age to lean inconspicuously against the wall to chat up eligible young ladies.
Across from the old facade ahead, find the Association of San Miguel. Duck right, past a bar, into the oldest courtyards in town—you can still see the graceful Neo-Gothic lines of this noble home from 1850. The bar is a club for retired men—always busy when a bullfight’s on TV or during card games. The guys are friendly, and drinks are cheap. You’re welcome to flip on the light and explore the old-town photos in the back room.
Just beyond, facing the elegant front door of that noble house, is Arcos’ second church, St. Peter’s (€1 donation, Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00 & 15:30-18:30, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun). You know it’s St. Peter’s because St. Peter, mother of God, is the centerpiece of the facade. Let me explain. It really is the second church, having had an extended battle with Santa María for papal recognition as the leading church in Arcos. When the pope finally favored Santa María, St. Peter’s parishioners changed their prayers. Rather than honoring “María,” they wouldn’t even say her name. They prayed “St. Peter, mother of God.” Like Santa María, it’s a Gothic structure, filled with Baroque decor, many Holy Week procession statues, humble English descriptions, and relic skeletons in glass caskets (two from the third century A.D.).
In the cool of the evening, the tiny square in front of the church—about the only flat piece of pavement around—serves as the old-town soccer field for neighborhood kids. Until a few years ago, this church also had a resident bellman—notice the cozy balcony halfway up. He was a basket-maker and a colorful character, famous for bringing a donkey into his quarters, which grew too big to get back out. Finally, he had no choice but to kill and eat the donkey.
Twenty yards beyond the church, step into the nice Galería de Arte San Pedro, featuring artisans in action and their reasonably priced paintings and pottery. Walk inside. Find the water drain and the well.
Across the street, a sign directs you to Mirador—a tiny square 100 yards downhill that affords a commanding view of Arcos. The reservoir you see to the east of town is used for water sports in the summertime, and forms part of a power plant that local residents protested—to no avail—based on environmental concerns.
From the Church of St. Peter, circle down and around back to the main square, wandering the tiny neighborhood lanes. Just below St. Peter’s (on Calle Maldonado), is a delightful little Andalusian garden (formal Arabic style, with aromatic plants such as jasmine, rose, and lavender, and water in the center). A bit farther along on Maldonado, peek into Belén Artístico, a quirky, little cave-like museum, featuring miniatures of favorite Nativity scenes (free, but donations accepted). The lane called Higinio Capote, below the Church of Santa María, is particularly picturesque with its many geraniums. Peek into patios, kick a few soccer balls, and savor the views.
The newer part of Arcos has a modern charm. In the cool of the evening, all generations enjoy life out around Plaza de España (10-minute walk from the old town). Several good tapas bars border the square or are nearby.
The big park (Recinto Ferial) below Plaza de España is the late-night fun zone in the summer (June-Aug) when carpas (restaurant tents) fill with merrymakers, especially on weekends. The scene includes open-air tapas bars, disco music, and dancing.
Hotels in Arcos consider April, May, August, September, and October to be high season. Note that some hotels double their rates during the motorbike races in nearby Jerez (usually April or May, varies yearly, call TI or ask your hotel) and during Holy Week (the week leading up to Easter); these spikes are not reflected in the prices below.
For an overnight stay, avoid the parking lot on the main square, which has a two-hour daytime limit. Instead, park in the lot at Plaza de España, and catch a taxi or the shuttle bus up to the old town (see “Arrival in Arcos,” earlier).
$$$ Parador de Arcos de la Frontera is royally located, with 24 elegant, recently refurbished and reasonably priced rooms (8 have balconies). If you’re going to experience a parador, this is a good one (Sb-€80-137, Db-€95-171, Db with terrace-€130-206, cheaper rates are for Nov-Feb, breakfast-€16, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, free parking, Plaza del Cabildo, tel. 956-700-500, www.parador.es, arcos@parador.es).
$$ Hotel El Convento, deep in the old town just beyond the parador, is the best value in town. Run by a hardworking family and their wonderful staff, this cozy hotel offers 13 fine rooms—all with great views, most with balconies. In 1998 I enjoyed a big party with most of Arcos’ big shots as they dedicated a fine room with a grand-view balcony to “Rick Steves, Periodista Turístico.” Guess where I sleep when in Arcos...(Sb with balcony-€62, Sb with terrace-€78, Db with balcony-€82, Db with terrace-€97, extra person-€18; 10 percent discount in 2014 when you book direct, pay in cash, and show this book; usually closed Nov-Feb; Wi-Fi, Maldonado 2, tel. 956-702-333, www.hotelelconvento.es, reservas@hotelelconvento.es). Over an à la carte breakfast, bird-watch on their view terrace, with all of Andalucía spreading beyond your café con leche.
$$ La Casa Grande is a lovingly appointed Better Homes and Moroccan Tiles kind of place that rents eight rooms with big-view windows. As in a lavish yet very authentic old-style B&B, you’re free to enjoy its fine view terrace, homey library, and atrium-like patio, where you’ll be served a traditional breakfast. They also offer guided visits and massage services (Db-€73-89; junior suites: Db-€89-119, Tb-€109-119, Qb-€123-140; breakfast-€9, air-con, Wi-Fi in public areas, Maldonado 10, tel. 956-703-930, www.lacasagrande.net, info@lacasagrande.net, Elena).
$$ Rincón de las Nieves, with simple Andalusian style, has a cool inner courtyard surrounded by three rooms and a sprawling apartment that can accommodate up to seven people. Two of the rooms have their own outdoor terraces with obstructed views, and all have access to the rooftop terrace (Db-€50-65, higher for Holy Week and Aug, apartment-€20-24/person, air-con, Boticas 10, tel. 956-701-528, mobile 656-886-256, www.rincondelasnieves.com, info@rincondelasnieves.com).
$ Hostal San Marcos, above a neat little bar in the heart of the old town, offers four air-conditioned rooms and a great sun terrace with views of the reservoir (Sb-€25, Db-€35, Tb-€45, air-con, Wi-Fi, Marqués de Torresoto 6, best to reserve by phone, tel. 956-105-429, mobile 664-118-052, sanmarcosdearcos@hotmail.com, José speaks some English).
$ Hostal Callejón de las Monjas (a.k.a. Hostal El Patio) offers the best cheap beds in the old town. With a tangled floor plan and nine simple rooms, it’s on a sometimes-noisy street behind the Church of Santa María (Sb-€20, D-€27, Db-€35, Db with terrace-€45, Tb-€50, Qb apartment-€70, air-con, Wi-Fi, Calle Callejón de las Monjas 4, tel. 956-702-302, mobile 605-839-995, www.mesonelpatio.com, padua@mesonelpatio.com, staff speak no English). The bar-restaurant with bullfighting posters in the cellar serves breakfast, tapas, and several fixed-priced meals.
$$ Hotel Los Olivos is a bright, cool, and airy place with 19 rooms, an impressive courtyard, roof garden, generous public spaces, bar, view, friendly folks, and easy parking. The five view rooms can be a bit noisy in the afternoon, but—with double-paned windows—are usually fine at night (Sb-€46-51, Db-€72-87, Tb-€87-102, extra bed-€15, breakfast-€9; 10 percent discount when you book direct, pay in cash, and show this book; Wi-Fi, Paseo de Boliches 30, tel. 956-700-811, www.hotel-losolivos.es, reservas@hotel-losolivos.es, Raquel and Miguel Ángel).
$ Hostal Málaga is surprisingly nice, if for some reason you want to stay on the big, noisy road at the Jerez edge of town. Nestled on a quiet lane between truck stops on A-382, it offers 17 clean, attractive rooms and a breezy two-level roof garden (Sb-€20-25, Db-€35-38, Qb apartment-€50, air-con, Wi-Fi, easy parking, Ponce de León 5, tel. 956-702-010, www.hostalmalaga.com, hostalmalagaarcos@hotmail.com, Josefa speaks German and a leetle English).
Restaurants generally serve lunch from 13:00 to 16:00 and dinner from 20:00 until very late (Spaniards don’t start dinner until about 21:00).
The Parador (described earlier, under “Sleeping in Arcos”) has a restaurant with a cliff-edge setting. Its tapas and raciones are reasonably priced but mediocre; still, a drink and a snack on the million-dollar-view terrace at sunset is a nice experience (€2.50-4 tapas, €6-14 raciones, €22 three-course fixed-price meal at lunch or dinner, daily 13:30-16:00 & 20:30-23:00, shorter hours off-season, on main square).
Several decent, rustic bar-restaurants are in the old town, within a block or two of the main square and church. Most serve tapas at the bar and raciones at their tables. Prices are fairly consistent (€2 tapas, €5 media-raciones, €8 raciones).
Bar La Carcel (“The Prison”) is run by a hardworking family that brags about its exquisite tapas and small open-faced sandwiches. I would, too. The menu is accessible; prices are the same at the bar or at the tables; and the place has a winning energy, giving the traveler a fun peek at this community (Tue-Sun 12:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00, closed Mon; July-Aug it’s open Mon and closed Sun; Calle Deán Espinosa 18, tel. 956-700-410).
Alcaraván tries to be a bit trendier yet típico, with a hibachi hard at work out front. A flamenco ambience fills its medieval vault in the castle’s former dungeon. This place attracts French and German tourists who give it a cool vibe. Francisco and his wife cook from 13:00 and again starting at 21:00 (closed Mon, Calle Nueva 1, tel. 956-703-397).
Bar San Marcos is a tiny, homey bar with five tables, an easy-to-understand menu offering hearty, simple home cooking, and cheap €5 plates and a variety of €7 fixed-price meals (kitchen open long hours Mon-Sat, closed Sun, Marqués de Torresoto 6).
Mesón Don Fernando gives rustic a feminine twist with an inviting bar and both indoor and great outdoor seating on the square just across from the little market (Tue-Thu 13:30-16:00 & 20:15-23:00 for food, closed Wed, longer hours for drinks on the square, on Plaza Boticas).
Mesón Los Murales serves tasty, affordable tapas, raciones, and fixed-price meals in their rustic bar or at tables in the square outside (€2.50 tapas and montaditos, €6-12 raciones, fixed-price meals from €9, Fri-Wed 10:00-24:00, closed Thu, at Plaza Boticas 1,tel. 685-809-661).
Mama Ttina gives you an Italian break from Andalucía, with pizza and pastas to go along with the Italian pop music and international Italian/Andaluz/Moroccan/British staff (€6-12 pizzas and pastas, Thu-Mon 13:00-16:00 & 18:30-24:00, Tue-Wed 18:30-24:00 only, Deán Espinosa 10, tel. 956-703-937).
(See “Arcos de la Frontera” map, here.)
Plaza de España, in the lower new town, is lined with tapas bars and restaurants. For a great perch while enjoying the local family scene, consider the busy Restaurante Bar Terraza (€12 plates) at the end of Plaza de España.
Leaving Arcos by bus can be frustrating (especially if you’re going to Ronda)—buses generally leave late, the schedule information boards are often inaccurate, and the ticket window usually isn’t open (luckily, you can buy your tickets on the bus). But local buses do give you a glimpse at España profunda (“deep Spain”), where everyone seems to know each other, no one’s in a hurry, and despite any language barriers, people are quite helpful when approached.
Two bus companies—Los Amarillos and Comes—share the Arcos bus station. Call the Jerez offices for departure times, or ask your hotelier for help. If you want to find out about the Arcos-Jerez schedule, make it clear you’re coming from Arcos (Los Amarillos tel. 902-210-317, www.losamarillos.es; Comes tel. 956-291-168, www.tgcomes.es). Also try the privately run www.movelia.es for bus schedules and routes.
From Arcos by Bus to: Jerez (hourly, 30 minutes), Ronda (1-2/day, 2 hours), Cádiz (4-5/day, 1.25 hours), Sevilla (2/day, 2 hours, more departures with transfer in Jerez). Buses run less frequently on weekends. The closest train station to Arcos is Jerez.
The trip to Sevilla takes about 1.5 hours if you pay €7 for the toll road. To reach southern Portugal, follow the freeway to Sevilla, skirt the city by turning west on C-30 in the direction of Huelva, and it’s a straight shot from there.
For more driving tips for the region, see the end of this chapter.
With more than 35,000 people, Ronda is one of the largest white hill towns. It’s also one of the most spectacular, thanks to its gorge-straddling setting. Approaching the town from the train or bus station, it seems flat...until you reach the New Bridge and realize that it’s clinging to the walls of a canyon.
While day-trippers from the touristy Costa del Sol clog Ronda’s streets during the day, locals retake the town in the early evening, making nights peaceful. If you liked Toledo at night, you’ll love the local feeling of evenings in Ronda. Since it’s served by train and bus, Ronda makes a relaxing break for non-drivers traveling between Granada, Sevilla, and Córdoba. Drivers can use Ronda as a convenient base from which to explore many of the other pueblos blancos.
Ronda’s main attractions are its gorge-spanning bridges, the oldest bullring in Spain, and an intriguing old town. The cliffside setting, dramatic today, was practical back in its day. For the Moors, it provided a tough bastion, taken by the Spaniards only in 1485, seven years before Granada fell. Spaniards know Ronda as the cradle of modern bullfighting and the romantic home of 19th-century bandoleros. The real joy of Ronda these days lies in exploring its back streets and taking in its beautiful balconies, exuberant flowerpots, and panoramic views. Walking the streets, you feel a strong local pride and a community where everyone seems to know everyone.
Ronda’s breathtaking ravine divides the town’s labyrinthine Moorish quarter and its new, noisier, and more sprawling Mercadillo quarter. A massive-yet-graceful 18th-century bridge connects these two neighborhoods. Most things of touristic importance (TI, post office, hotels, bullring) are clustered within a few blocks of the bridge. The paseo (early evening stroll) happens in the new town, on Ronda’s major pedestrian and shopping street, Carrera Espinel.
Ronda’s TI, across the square from the bullring, covers not only the town but all of Andalucía. It gives out good, free maps of the town, Andalusia’s roads, Granada, Sevilla, and the Route of the White Towns. It also sells the Bono Turístico city pass, has listings of the latest museum hours, and organizes walking tours—see details under “Tours in Ronda,” later (TI open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:30, until 18:00 late-Oct-late March; Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00 & 15:00-17:00; Paseo Blas Infante, tel. 952-187-119, www.turismoderonda.es).
Sightseeing Pass: If you’re an avid sightseer, consider getting the €10 Bono Turístico city pass, which gets you into five sights (including the Arab Baths, Museo Joaquín Peinado, and Mondragón Palace). It’s valid for one week and sold at the TI and a few participating sights (including the Arab Baths and Museo Joaquín Peinado).
By Train: The small station has ticket windows, a train information desk, and a café, but no baggage storage (there are lockers at the nearby bus station).
From the station, it’s a 15-to-20-minute walk to the center: Turn right out of the station on Avenida de Andalucía, and go through the roundabout (you’ll see the bus station on your right). Continue straight down the street (now called San José) until you reach Calle Jerez. Turn left and walk downhill past a church and the Alameda del Tajo park. Keep going down this street, passing the bullring, to get to the TI and the famous bridge. A taxi to the center costs about €6.50.
By Bus: To get to the center from the bus station, leave the station walking to the right of the roundabout, then follow the directions for train travelers (described earlier). To use the station’s baggage lockers, buy a token (ficha) at the kiosk by the exit (€3.50).
By Car: Street parking away from the center is often free. The handiest place to park in the center of Ronda is the underground lot at Plaza del Socorro (one block from bullring, €18/24 hours).
Laundry: HigienSec has one machine for self-service. For twice the cost, they will wash, dry, and fold your clothes, and offer same-day service if you drop off early enough (€6/load wash-and-dry, €12/load drop-off service, Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-20:30, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun, 2 blocks east of the bullring at Calle Molino 6, tel. 952-875-249).
Internet Access: Almost every hotel in town has Wi-Fi, and many also have computers for guest use. You can get online, make international phone calls, print, and fax at Internet Mundi@l (€0.50/15 minutes, Mon-Sat 10:00-14:00 & 16:00-22:00, Sun 16:00-22:00, near the recommended Hotel El Tajo at Calle Cruz Verde 21, tel. 952-161-588).
Baggage Storage: Use the lockers at the bus station (see “Arrival in Ronda,” earlier).
The TI offers two-hour guided walks of the city (Sat-Sun at 13:00; in summer also Thu-Sat at 20:00). Reserve and pay at the TI (€18 daytime tour includes Mondragón Palace and bullring; €15 evening tour includes Mondragón Palace and Arab Baths; sometimes in two languages). Tours can be canceled if there aren’t enough sign-ups.
Energetic and knowledgeable Antonio Jesús Naranjo will take you on a two-hour walking tour of the city’s sights. He showed Michelle Obama around when she was in town (from €120/day, reserve early, tel. 952-870-614, mobile 639-073-763, www.guiaoficialderonda.com, guiajesus@yahoo.es). The TI has a list of other local guides.
The ravine, called El Tajo—360 feet down and 200 feet wide—divides Ronda into the whitewashed old Moorish town (La Ciudad) and the new town (El Mercadillo) that was built after the Christian reconquest in 1485. The New Bridge mightily spans the gorge. A different bridge was built here in 1735, but fell after six years. This one was built from 1751 to 1793. Look down...carefully.
You can see the foundations of the original bridge (and a super view of the New Bridge) from the Jardines de Cuenca park (daily in summer 9:30-21:30, winter 9:30-18:30): From Plaza de España, walk down Calle Rosario, turn right on Calle Los Remedios, and then take another right at the sign for the park. There are also good views from the parador, which overlooks the gorge and bridge from the new-town side.
From the new-town side of the bridge, on the right, you’ll see the entrance to the New Bridge Interpretive Center, where you can pay to climb down and enter the structure of the bridge itself (€2; Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, late Oct-late March until 18:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-15:00 year-round; mobile 649-965-338). Inside the mostly empty-feeling hall are modest audiovisual displays about the bridge’s construction and famous visitors to Ronda. But the views of the bridge and gorge from the outside are far more thrilling than anything you’ll find within.
Ronda is the birthplace of modern bullfighting, and this was the first great Spanish bullring. Philip II initiated bullfighting as war training for knights in the 16th century. Back then, there were two kinds of bullfighting: the type with noble knights on horseback, and the coarser, man-versus-beast entertainment for the commoners (with no rules...much like when the WWF wrestlers bring out the folding chairs). Ronda practically worships Francisco Romero, who melded the noble and chaotic kinds of bullfighting with rules to establish modern bullfighting right here in the early 1700s. He introduced the scarlet cape, held unfurled with a stick. His son Juan further developed the ritual (local aficionados would never call it a “sport”—you’ll read newspaper coverage of fights not on the sports pages but in the culture section), and his grandson Pedro was one of the first great matadors (killing nearly 6,000 bulls in his career).
Ronda’s bullring and museum are Spain’s most interesting (even better than Sevilla’s). To tour the ring, stables, chapel, and museum, buy a ticket at the back of the bullring, the farthest point from the main drag.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, daily April-Sept 10:00-20:00, March and Oct 10:00-20:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-18:00, no photography in museum, tel. 952-874-132, www.rmcr.org. The excellent €2 audioguide describes everything and is essential to fully enjoy your visit.
Bullfights: Bullfights are scheduled only for the first weekend of September during the feria (fair) and occur very rarely in the spring. Whereas every other feria in Andalucía celebrates a patron saint, the Ronda fair glorifies legendary bullfighter Pedro Romero. For September bullfights, tickets go on sale the preceding July. (As these sell out immediately, Sevilla and Madrid are more practical places for a tourist to see a bullfight.)
Visiting the Bullring: I’d visit in this order. Directly to the right as you enter is the bullfighters’ chapel. Before going into the ring, every matador would stop here to pray to Mary for safety—and hope to see her again.
• Just beyond the chapel are the doors to the museum exhibits: horse gear and weapons on the left, and the story of bullfighting on the right, with some English translations.
The horse gear and guns exhibit makes the connection with bullfighting and the equestrian upper class. As throughout Europe, “chivalry” began as a code among the sophisticated, horse-riding gentry. (In Spanish, the word for “gentleman” is the same as the word for “horseman” or “cowboy”—caballero.) And, of course, nobles are into hunting and dueling, hence the fancy guns. Don’t miss the well-described dueling section with gun cases for two, as charming as a picnic basket with matching wine glasses.
Backtrack past the chapel to see Spain’s best bullfighting exhibit. It’s a shrine to bullfighting and the historic Romero family. First it traces the long history of bullfighting, going all the way back to the ancient Minoans on Crete. Historically, there were only two arenas built solely for bullfighting: in Ronda and Sevilla. Elsewhere, bullfights were held in town squares—you’ll see a painting of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor filled with spectators for a bullfight. (For this reason, to this day, even a purpose-built bullring is generally called plaza de toros—“square of bulls.”) You’ll also see stuffed bull heads, photos, “suits of light” worn by bullfighters, and capes (bulls are actually colorblind, but the traditional red cape was designed to disguise all the blood). One section explains some of the big “dynasties” of fighters. At the end of the hall are historic posters from Ronda’s bullfights (all originals except the Picasso). Running along the left wall are various examples of artwork glorifying bullfighting, including original Goya engravings.
• From the museum, take advantage of the opportunity to walk in the actual arena.
Here’s your chance to play toro, surrounded by 5,000 empty seats. The two-tiered arena was built in 1785—on the 300th anniversary of the defeat of the Moors in Ronda. Notice the 136 classy Tuscan columns, creating a kind of 18th-century Italian theater. Lovers of the “art” of bullfighting will explain that the event is much more than the actual killing of the bull. It celebrates the noble heritage and the Andalusian horse culture. When you leave the museum and walk out on the sand, look across to see the ornamental columns and painted doorway where the dignitaries sit (over the gate where the bull enters). On the right is the place for the band (marked música), which, in the case of a small town like Ronda, is most likely a high school band.
• Just beyond the arena are more parts of the complex.
From the arena, walk through the bulls’ entry into the bullpen and the stables. There are six bulls per fight (plus two backups)—and three matadors. The bulls are penned up here beforehand, and ropes and pulleys safely open the right door at the right time. Climb upstairs and find the indoor arena (Picadero) and see Spanish thoroughbred horses training from the Equestrian School of the Real Maestranza (Mon-Fri).
One block away from the bullring, the town’s main park is a great place for a picnic lunch, people-watching, a snooze in the shade, or practicing your Spanish with seniors from the old folks’ home.
This 15th-century church with a fine Mudejar bell tower shares a park-like square with orange trees and City Hall. It was built on and around the remains of Moorish Ronda’s main mosque (which was itself built on the site of a temple to Julius Caesar). With a pleasantly eclectic interior that features some art with unusually modern flair, and a good audioguide to explain it all, it’s worth a visit.
Cost and Hours: €4, includes audioguide, daily April-Sept 10:00-20:00, March and Oct 10:00-19:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-18:00, closed Sun 12:30-14:00 for Mass, Plaza Duquesa de Parcent in the old town.
Visiting the Church: In the room where you purchase your ticket, look for the only surviving mosque prayer niche (that’s a mirror; look back at the actual mihrab, which faces not Mecca, but Gibraltar—where you’d travel to get to Mecca). Partially destroyed by an earthquake, the reconstruction of the church resulted in the Moorish/Gothic/Renaissance/Baroque fusion (or confusion) you see today.
The front of the church interior is dominated by a magnificent Baroque high altar with the standard statue of the Immaculate Conception in the center. The even more ornate chapel directly to the right is a good example of Churrigueresque architecture, a kind of Spanish Rococo in which decoration obliterates the architecture—notice that you can hardly make out the souped-up columns. This chapel’s fancy decor provides a frame for an artistic highlight of the town, the “Virgin of the Ultimate Sorrow.” The big fresco of St. Christopher with Baby Jesus on his shoulders (on the left, where you entered) shows the patron saint both of Ronda and of travelers.
Facing the altar is an elaborately carved choir with a wall of modern bronze reliefs depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary. Similar to the Via Crucis (Way of the Cross), this is the Via Lucis (Way of the Light), with 14 stations (such as #13—the Immaculate Conception, and #14—Mary’s assumption into heaven) that serve as a worship aid to devout Catholics. The centerpiece is Mary as the light of the world (with the moon, stars, and sun around her).
Head to the left around the choir, noticing the bright paintings along the wall by French artist Raymonde Pagegie, who gave sacred scenes a fresh twist—like the Last Supper attended by female servants, or the scene of Judgment Day, when the four horsemen of the apocalypse pause to adore the Lamb of God.
The treasury (at the far-right corner, with your back to the high altar) displays vestments that look curiously like matadors’ brocaded outfits—appropriate for this bullfight-crazy town.
This beautiful, originally Moorish building was erected in the 14th century, and is the legendary (but not actual) residence of Moorish kings. The building was restored in the 16th century (notice the late Gothic courtyard), and its facade dates only from the 18th century. At the entrance (free to view without a ticket) is a topographic model of Ronda, which helps you envision the fortified old town apart from the grid-like new one. The rest of the building houses Ronda’s Municipal Museum, focusing on prehistory and geology. Wander through its many rooms to find the kid-friendly prehistory section, with exhibits on Neolithic toolmaking and early metallurgy (described in English). If you plan to visit the Pileta Cave (see here), find the panels that describe the cave’s formation and shape. Even if you have no interest in your ancestors or speleology, the building’s architecture is impressive; linger in the two small gardens, especially the shaded one.
Cost and Hours: €3; Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, late Oct-late March until 18:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-15:00; on Plaza Mondragón in old town, tel. 952-870-818.
Nearby: Leaving the palace, wander left a few short blocks to the nearby Plaza de María Auxiliadora for more views and a look at the two rare pinsapos (resembling extra-large Christmas trees) in the middle of the park; this part of Andalucía is the only region in Europe where these ancient trees still grow. For an intense workout but a picture-perfect view, find the Puerta de los Molinos sign and head down, down, down. (Just remember you have to walk back up, up, up.) Not for the faint of heart or in the heat of the afternoon sun, this pathway leads down to the viewpoint where windmills once stood. Photographers go crazy reproducing the most famous postcard view of Ronda—the entirety of the New Bridge. Wait until just before sunset for the best light and cooler temperatures.
This discombobulated collection of Ronda’s history in dusty glass cases displays everything from sewing machines to fans to old movie projectors to matador outfits (with decent English explanations). The highlight for many is the basement, with juvenile displays showing torture devices from the Inquisition and local witchcraft.
Cost and Hours: €4, audioguide-€1, daily 11:00-20:00, mid-Oct-mid-March until 19:00, Calle Arminan 29, tel. 952-871-263, www.museolara.org.
This tiny museum, while not as intriguing as it sounds, has an interesting assembly of bandolero photos, guns, clothing, knickknacks, and old documents and newspaper clippings. The Jesse Jameses and Billy el Niños of Andalucía called this remote area home. One brand of romantic bandits fought Napoleon’s army—often more effectively than the regular Spanish troops. The exhibits profile specific bandoleros and display books (from comics to pulp fiction) that helped romanticize these heroes of Spain’s “Old West.” The museum feels a bit like a tourist trap (with a well-stocked gift shop), but brief but helpful English descriptions make this a fun stop. Next door is a free 22-minute movie about bandoleros, (only in Spanish).
Cost and Hours: €3.75, daily May-Sept 11:00-20:00, Oct-April until 18:30, across main street below Church of Santa María la Mayor at Calle Armiñan 65, tel. 952-877-785, www.museobandolero.com.
Housed in an old palace, this fresh museum features an impressively large professional overview of the life’s work of Joaquín Peinado (1898-1975), a Ronda native and pal of Picasso. Because Franco killed creativity in Spain for much of the last century, nearly all of Peinado’s creative work was done in Paris. His style evolved through the big “isms” of the 20th century, ranging from Expressionist to Cubist, and even to erotic. While Peinado’s works seem a bit derivative, perhaps that’s understandable as he was friends with one of the art world’s biggest talents. The nine-minute movie that kicks it off is only in Spanish, though there are good English explanations throughout the museum. You’ll have an interesting modern-art experience here, without the crowds of Madrid’s museums. It’s fun to be exposed to a lesser-known but very talented artist in his hometown.
Cost and Hours: €4, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Sun, Plaza del Gigante, tel. 952-871-585, www.museojoaquinpeinado.com.
From the New Bridge you can descend down Cuesta de Santo Domingo (crossing the bridge from the new town into the old, take the first left at the former Dominican Church, once the headquarters of the Inquisition in Ronda) into a world of whitewashed houses, tiny grilled balconies, and winding lanes—the old town.
A couple of blocks steeply downhill (on the left), you’ll see the House of the Moorish King (Casa del Rey Moro). It was never the home of any king; it was given its fictitious name by the grandson of President McKinley, who once lived here. It offers visitors entry to the fine “Moorish-Hispanic” belle époque garden, designed in 1912 by a French landscape architect (the house interior is not open to visitors). Follow signs to the “Mine,” an exhausting series of 280 slick, dark, and narrow stairs (like climbing down and then up a 20-story building) leading to the floor of the gorge. The Moors cut this zigzag staircase into the wall of the gorge in the 14th century to access water when under siege, then used Spanish slaves to haul water up to the thirsty town (€4, generally daily 10:00-20:00).
Fifty yards downhill from the garden is the Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra (Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra, closed to public). As part of the “distribution” following the Reconquista here in 1485, the Spanish king gave this grand house to the Salvatierra family (who live here to this day). The facade is rich in colonial symbolism from Spanish America—note the pre-Columbian-looking characters (four Peruvian Indians) flanking the balcony above the door and below the family coat of arms.
Just below the palace, stop to enjoy the view terrace. Look below. A series of square vats are all that remains of the old tanneries. There are two old bridges, with the Arab Baths just to the right, and at the edge of town is a rectangular horse-training area.
Twenty steps farther down, you’ll pass through the Philip V gate, for centuries the main gate to the fortified city of Ronda. Continuing downhill, you come to the Old Bridge (Puente Viejo), rebuilt in 1616 upon the ruins of an Arabic bridge. Enjoy the views from the bridge (but don’t cross it yet), then continue down the old stairs. From the base of the staircase, look back up to glimpse some of the surviving highly fortified Moorish city walls. You’ve now reached the oldest bridge in Ronda, the Arab Bridge (also called the San Miguel Bridge). Sometimes given the misnomer of Puente Romano (Roman Bridge), it was more likely built long after the Romans left. For centuries, this was the main gate to the fortified city. In Moorish times, you’d purify both your body and your soul here before entering the city, so just outside the gate was a little mosque (now the ruined chapel) and the Arab Baths.
The Arab Baths (Baños Árabes), worth ▲, are evocative ruins that warrant a quick look. They were located half underground to maintain the temperature and served by a horse-powered water tower. You can still see the top of the shaft (30 yards beyond the bath rooftops, near a cyprus tree, connected to the baths by an aqueduct). Water was hoisted from the river below to the aqueduct by ceramic containers that were attached to a belt powered by a horse walking in circles. Inside, two of the original eight columns scavenged from the Roman ruins still support brick vaulting. A delightful 10-minute video brings the entire complex to life—Spanish and English versions run alternately (€3, free on Mon; open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Nov-April until 18:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-15:00 year-round; sometimes open later in summer, call ahead before making the trip, mobile 656-950-937).
From here, hike back to the new town along the other side of the gorge: Return to the bridge just uphill. Cross it and take the stairs immediately on the left, which lead scenically along the gorge up to the New Bridge.
The Pileta Cave (Cueva de la Pileta) offers Spain’s most intimate look at Neolithic and Paleolithic paintings that are up to 25,000 years old. Set in a dramatic, rocky limestone ridge at the eastern edge of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, Pileta Cave is 14 miles from Ronda, past the town of Benaoján, at the end of an access road. It’s particularly handy if you’re driving between Ronda and Grazalema.
Cost and Hours: €8, one-hour tours generally depart daily at 13:00 & 16:00, additional tours go between 10:00-13:00 and 16:00-18:00 if enough people gather (Nov-mid-April until 17:00), closing times indicate last tour, €10 guidebook, no photos, tel. 952-167-343, www.cuevadelapileta.org.
Getting There: It’s possible to get here without wheels, but I wouldn’t bother (you’d have to take the Ronda-Benaoján bus—2/day, departs at 8:30 and 13:00, 30 minutes—and then it’s a 2-hour, 3-mile uphill hike). You can get from Ronda to the cave by taxi—it’s about a half-hour drive on twisty roads—and have the driver wait (€60 round-trip). If you’re driving, it’s easy: Leave Ronda through the new part of town, and take A-374. After a few miles, passing Cueva del Gato, exit left toward Benaoján on MA-555. Go through Benaoján and follow the numerous signs to the cave. Leave nothing of value in your car.
Visiting the Cave: Farmer José Bullón and his family live down the hill from the cave, and because they strictly limit the number of visitors, Pileta’s rare paintings are among the best-preserved in the world. Señor Bullón and his son lead up to 25 people at a time through the cave, which was discovered by Bullón’s grandfather in 1905. Call the night before to see if there’s a tour and space available at the time you want. Note that if you simply show up for the 13:00 tour, you’ll risk not getting a spot—and it’ll be another three hours before the next one starts. Bring a sweater and good shoes. You need a good sense of balance to take the tour. The 10-minute hike, from the parking lot up a trail with stone steps to the cave entrance, is moderately steep. Inside the cave, there are no handrails, and it can be difficult to keep your footing on the slippery, uneven floor while being led single-file, with only a lantern light illuminating the way.
Señor Bullón is a master at hurdling the language barrier. As you walk the cool half-mile, he’ll spend an hour pointing out lots of black, ochre, and red drawings, which are five times as old as the Egyptian pyramids. Mostly it’s just lines or patterns, but there are also horses, goats, cattle, and a rare giant fish, made from a mixture of clay and fat by finger-painting prehistoric hombres. The 200-foot main cavern is impressive, as are some weirdly recognizable natural formations such as the Michelin man and a Christmas tree.
Eating near the Cave: Nearby Montejaque has several good restaurants clustered around the central square.
Sleeping near the Cave: A good base for visiting Ronda and the Pileta Cave (as well as Grazalema) is $$ Cortijo las Piletas. Nestled at the edge of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park (just a 15-minute drive from Ronda, with easy access from the main highway), this spacious family-run country estate has nine rooms and plenty of opportunities for swimming, hiking, bird-watching, and exploring the surrounding area. They can also arrange for biking and horseback riding (Sb-€71-76, Db-€86-92, extra bed-€15-18, includes breakfast but not tax, dinner offered some days—book in advance, mobile 605-080-295, www.cortijolaspiletas.com, info@cortijolaspiletas.com, Pablo and Elisenda). Another countryside option is $$ Finca La Guzmana, run by expat Brit Peter. Six beautifully appointed pastel rooms surround an open patio at this renovated estate house. Bird-watching, swimming, and trekking are possible (Db-€75-80, includes breakfast, mobile 600-006-305, www.laguzmana.com, info@laguzmana.com).
Ronda has plenty of reasonably priced, decent-value accommodations. It’s crowded only during Holy Week (the week leading up to Easter) and the first week of September (for bullfighting season). Most of my recommendations are in the new town, a short stroll from the New Bridge and about a 10-minute walk from the train station. In the cheaper places, ask for a room with a ventana (window) to avoid the few interior rooms. Breakfast is usually not included.
Clearly the best options in town, these hotels are worth reserving early. The first two are right in the heart of the Old Town, while the Alavera de los Baños is a steep 15-to-20-minute hike below, but still easily walkable to all the sights (if you’re in good shape) and in a bucolic setting.
$$ Hotel San Gabriel has 22 pleasant rooms, a kind staff, public rooms filled with art and poetry books, a cozy wine cellar, and a fine garden terrace. It’s a large 1736 townhouse, once the family’s home, that’s been converted to a characteristic hotel, marinated in history. If you’re a cinephile, kick back in the charming TV room—with seats from Ronda’s old theater and a collection of DVD classics—then head to the breakfast room to check out photos of big movie stars (and, ahem, bespectacled travel writers) who have stayed here (Sb-€66, Db-€88, bigger superior Db-€98, Db junior suite-€115, lavish honeymoon suite-€150, breakfast-€5, air-con, incognito elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, double-park in front and they’ll direct you to a €9/day parking spot, follow signs on the main street of old town to Calle Marqués de Moctezuma 19, tel. 952-190-392, www.hotelsangabriel.com, info@hotelsangabriel.com, family-run by José Manuel and Ana).
$$ Hotel Ronda provides an interesting mix of minimalist and traditional Spanish decor in this refurbished mansion, which is both quiet and homey. Although its five rooms are without views, the small, lovely rooftop deck overlooks the town (Sb-€55, Db-€70, additional bed-€22, no breakfast, air-con, Wi-Fi, Ruedo Doña Elvira 12, tel. 952-872-232, www.hotelronda.net, laraln@telefonica.net, some English spoken).
$$ Alavera de los Baños, a delightful oasis located next to ancient Moorish baths at the bottom of the hill, has nine small rooms and big inviting public places, with appropriately Moorish decor. This hotel offers a swimming pool, a peaceful Arabic garden, and a selection of sandwiches for lunch. The artistic ambience urges, “Relax!” You’re literally in the countryside, with sheep and horses outside near the garden (Sb-€60-70, Db-€85-97, Db with terrace-€95-107, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi in some rooms and lobby, free and easy parking, closed Jan, steeply below the heart of town at Calle Molino de Alarcón, tel. 952-879-143, www.alaveradelosbanos.com, alavera@telefonica.net, well-run by personable Christian and Inma).
More convenient than charming (except the Hotel Enfrente Arte Ronda—in a class all its own), these hotels put you in the thriving new town.
$$$ Hotel Catalonia Reina Victoria hangs royally over the gorge at the edge of town and has a marvelous view—Hemingway loved it. Its 89 renovated rooms are sleek and modern but lack character. Rooms with a gorge view cost €15 more—and they’re worth it (Sb-€97-117, Db-€115-156, breakfast-€13, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi in lobby, pool, parking-€15/day, 10-minute walk from city center; easy to miss—look for intersection of Avenida Victoria and Calle Jerez, Jerez 25; tel. 952-871-240, www.hoteles-catalonia.com, reinavictoria@hoteles-catalonia.com).
$$ Hotel Enfrente Arte Ronda, on the edge of things a steep 10-to-15-minute walk below the heart of the new town, is relaxed, funky, and friendly. The 12 rooms are spacious and exotically decorated, but dimly lit. It features a sprawling maze of exuberantly decorated public spaces, including a peaceful bamboo garden, game and reading room, small swimming pool, sauna, and terraces with sweeping countryside views. Guests can help themselves to free drinks from the self-service bar. This one-of-a-kind place is in all the guidebooks, so reserve early—Madonna even stayed here once (Db-€80-105, extra bed-€28-40, includes buffet breakfast, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi in lobby, Real 40, tel. 952-879-088, www.enfrentearte.com, reservations@enfrentearte.com).
$$ Hotel Don Miguel, facing the gorge just left of the bridge, has disinterested staff and all the charm of a tour-group hotel, but it couldn’t be more central. Of its 30 sparse but comfortable rooms, 20 have gorgeous views at no extra cost. Street rooms come with a little noise (Sb-€59-70, Db-€91-108, Tb-€110-135, free buffet breakfast, 10 percent discount if you book direct via email and mention this book, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi in lobby, parking garage a block away-€12/day, Plaza de España 4, tel. 952-877-722, www.dmiguel.com, reservas@dmiguel.com).
$$ Hotel El Tajo has 33 decent, quiet rooms—once you get past the tacky faux-stone Moorish decoration in the foyer (Sb-€39, Db-€55, breakfast-€6, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi in some rooms, parking-€10/day, Calle Cruz Verde 7, a half-block off the pedestrian street, tel. 952-874-040, www.hoteleltajo.com, reservas@hoteleltajo.com).
$$ Hotel San Francisco offers 27 small, nicely decorated rooms a block off the main pedestrian street in the town center (Sb-€35-40, Db-€50-65, Tb-€70-80, breakfast-€3.50, air-con, elevator, parking-€8.50/day, María Cabrera 20, tel. 952-873-299, hotelronda@terra.es).
$ Hotel Royal has a dreary reception and 29 clean, spacious, simple rooms—many on the main street that runs between the bullring and bridge. Thick glass keeps out most of the noise, while the tree-lined Alameda del Tajo park across the street is a treat. Some rooms and hallways are dimly lit (Sb-€30-38, Db-€40-50, Tb-€55-60, breakfast-€4, air-con, Wi-Fi, parking-€10/day, 3 blocks off Plaza de España at Calle Virgen de la Paz 42, tel. 952-871-141, www.ronda.net/usuar/hotelroyal, hroyal@ronda.net).
$ Hotel Andalucía has 12 clean, comfortable, and recently renovated rooms immediately across the street from the train station (Sb-€25, Db-€35, Tb-€50, breakfast-€2, air-con and TV in all rooms, Wi-Fi, easy street parking or €6/day in nearby garage, Martínez Astein 19, tel. 952-875-450, www.hotel-andalucia.net, info@hotel-andalucia.net).
$ Hostal Doña Carmen, a basic cheapie, rents 32 bare-bones rooms in two sections. The rooms sharing a shower down the hall, with no air-con or TV, are especially reasonable (S-€17, Sb-€25, D-€28, Db-€45, T-€40, Tb-€55, no breakfast, air-con and TV only in rooms with bath, Wi-Fi in lobby, Calle Naranja 28, tel. 952-871-994, www.hostaldonacarmen.com, mturrillo@yahoo.es).
The village of Júzcar is about 15 miles south of Ronda. In 2011 Júzcar’s white facades were painted “Smurf blue” to promote a Smurfs movie. When it came time to restore the buildings to their normal white color, the villagers realized they weren’t eager to lose the tourist traffic the stunt had brought in—and voted to leave their town blue (for the time being, at least).
$$ Hotel Bandolero is for nature lovers. Settle into the rustic rooms, go hiking and bird-watching, or take a dip in the pool (Sb-€35-49, standard Db-€59-96, superior Db-€69-106, Db suite-€80-117, higher prices are for half-board, Wi-Fi, restaurant with Cordon Bleu chef, Avenida Havaral 43, Júzcar, tel. 952-183-660, www.hotelbandolero.com, reservas@hotelbandolero.com, David).
(See “Ronda Restaurants” map, here.)
Plaza del Socorro, a block in front of the bullring, is an energetic scene, bustling with tourists and local families enjoying the square and its restaurants. The pedestrian-only Calle Nueva is lined with hardworking eateries. To enjoy a drink or a light meal with the best view in town, consider the terraces of Hotel Don Miguel just under the bridge. For coffee and pastries, locals like the elegant little Confiteria Daver (café open daily 8:00-20:30, take-away until 21:00, two locations—Calle Virgen de los Remedios 6 and Calle Padre Mariano Soubiron 8). Picnic shoppers find the Alameda Market (Mon-Sat 8:30-21:00, Sun 9:00-15:00, Calle Virgen de La Paz 23) conveniently located next to Alameda del Tajo park, which has benches and a WC. The Día supermarket, opposite Hotel El Tajo, is also very central (Mon-Sat 9:15-21:15, closed Sun, Calle Cruz Verde 18).
(See “Ronda Restaurants” map, here.)
Ronda has a fine tapas scene. You won’t get a free tapa with your drink as in some other Spanish towns, but these bars have accessible tapas lists, and they serve bigger plates. Each of the following places could make a fine solo destination for a meal, but they’re close enough that you can easily try more than one.
Tragatapas, the accessible little brother of the acclaimed gourmet Restaurante Tragabuches, serves super-creative and always-tasty tapas in a stainless-steel minimalist bar. There’s just a handful of tall tiny tables and stools inside, with patio seating on the pedestrian street, and an enticing blackboard of the day’s specials. If you want to sample Andalusian gourmet (e.g., a handful of €1.70-3 tapas such as asparagus on a stick sprinkled with manchego cheese grated coconut-style) without going broke, this is the place to do it (also €6-12 larger plates, daily 12:00-17:00 & 20:00-24:00, Calle Nueva 4, tel. 952-877-209).
Bar Lechuguita, a hit with older locals early and younger ones later, serves a long and tasty list of tapas for a good price. Rip off a tapas inventory sheet and mark which ones you want (most cost €0.80; €5 plates also available). Be adventurous and don’t miss the bar’s namesake, Lechuguita (#15, a wedge of lettuce with vinegar, garlic, and a secret ingredient). The order-form routine makes it easy to communicate and get exactly what you like, plus you know the exact price (Mon-Sat 13:00-15:15 & 20:15-23:30, closed Sun, no chairs or tables, just a bar and tiny stand-up ledges, Calle Virgen de los Remedios 35).
Café & Bar Faustino is a place Brueghel would paint—a festival of eating with a fun and accessible menu that works both at the bar and at tables. The atmosphere makes you want to stay, and the selection makes you wish your appetite was even bigger (lots of €1 tapas, €3 sandwiches, €5-8 raciones, Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00, closed Mon, just off Plaza Carmen Abela at Santa Cecilia 4, tel. 952-190-307).
La Tradicional, run by Elias (from Casa María—described below), serves up €1.20 tapas and €4-11 raciones with an emphasis on meats (Thu-Tue 12:00-17:00 & 18:30-24:00, closed Wed, Las Tiendas 2, tel. 952-875-683).
(See “Ronda Restaurants” map, here.)
To entirely leave the quaint old town and bustling city center with all of its tourists and grand gorge views, hike 10 minutes out to the far end of the old town, past City Hall, to a big workaday square that goes about life as if the world didn’t exist outside Andalucía.
Bar-Restaurante Almocábar is a favorite eatery for many Ronda locals. Its restaurant—a cozy eight-table room with Moorish tiles and a window to the kitchen—serves up tasty, creative, well-presented meals from a menu that’s well-described in English (plus a handwritten list of the day’s specials). Many opt for the good €8-15 salads—rare in Spain. At the busy bar up front, you can order anything from the dining room menu, or choose from the list of €1.50-2 tapas (€5-15 starters, €12-20 main dishes, closed Tue, Calle Ruedo Alameda 5, tel. 952-875-977).
La Cepa (formerly Casa María) is a small tapas bar offering typical Andalusian fare in a homey setting. In summer, their tables spill out onto the plaza (€1-3 tapas, €7-9 raciones, Wed-Mon 12:30-24:00, closed Tue, facing Plaza Ruedo Alameda at #27, tel. 676-126-822).
Bodega San Francisco is a rustic bar with tables upstairs and a homey restaurant across the street, offering an accessible list of €4-9 raciones and €1 tapas, as well as serious plates and big splittable portions (same menu in bar and restaurant). This place is understandably a neighborhood favorite (closed Thu, Ruedo de Alameda 32, tel. 952-878-162).
(See “Ronda Restaurants” map, here.)
Ronda is littered with upscale-seeming restaurants that toe the delicate line between a good dinner spot and a tourist trap. While (admittedly) none of the following could be called “untouristy,” they each offer decent food with either a striking setting, a venerable ambience, or both. For a more authentic dining experience, do a tapas crawl through town, or head for the far more characteristic eateries just outside the Almocábar Gate (both described above).
Restaurante Mirador de la Espinela (locals often refer to it by its former name, El Escudero) serves lovingly presented Spanish food with a posh modern touch in a crystal- and cream-colored dining room or on a terrace overlooking the gorge (€12-18.50 fixed-price meals, €29 gourmet tasting meals, €7-13 starters, €16-20 main dishes, daily 12:00-22:30 except closed Sun eve in summer, behind bullring at Paseo Blas Infante 1, tel. 952-871-367).
Restaurante Pedro Romero, though touristy and overpriced, is a venerable institution in Ronda. Assuming a shrine to bullfighting draped in el toro memorabilia doesn’t ruin your appetite, it gets good reviews. Rub elbows with the local bullfighters or dine with the likes (well, photographic likenesses) of Orson Welles, Ernest Hemingway, and Francisco Franco (€16 and 25 fixed-price meals, €7-12 starters, €16-20 main dishes, daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:30-23:00, air-con, across the street from bullring at Calle Virgen de la Paz 18, tel. 952-871-110).
Restaurante Casa Santa Pola offers gourmet versions of traditional food with friendly, professional service, with several small dining rooms and a delightful terrace perched on the side of the gorge—worth reserving ahead (€12-14 starters, €16-24 main dishes; good oxtail stew, roasted lamb, and honey-tempura eggplant; daily 12:30-16:30 & 19:00-22:30; after crossing New Bridge from the bullring, take the first left downhill and you’ll see the sign, Calle Santo Domingo 3; tel. 952-879-208, www.rsantapola.com).
Note that some destinations are linked with Ronda by both bus and train. Direct bus service to other hill towns can be sparse (as few as one per day), and train service usually involves a transfer in Bobadilla. It’s worth spending a few minutes in the bus or train station on arrival to plan your departure. Your options improve from major transportation hubs such as Málaga.
From Ronda by Bus to: Algeciras (1/day, 2.75 hours, Comes), La Línea/Gibraltar (no direct bus, transfer in Algeciras; Algeciras to Gibraltar—2/hour, 45 minutes, can buy ticket on bus), Arcos (1-2/day, 2 hours, Comes), Jerez (2/day, 2.5-3 hours, Comes), Grazalema (2/day, 45 minutes, Los Amarillos), Zahara (2/day, Mon-Fri only, 45 minutes, Comes), Sevilla (8/day, 2-2.5 hours, fewer on weekends, some via Villamartín, Los Amarillos; also see trains, next page), Málaga (directo 10/day Mon-Fri, 6/day Sat-Sun, 1.75-2 hours, Los Amarillos; ruta 2/day, 4 hours, Portillo; access other Costa del Sol points from Málaga), Marbella (2/day, 1.25 hours, Los Amarillos), Fuengirola (2/day, 1.75 hours, Los Amarillos), Nerja (4 hours, transfer in Málaga; can take train or bus from Ronda to Málaga, bus is better). If traveling to Córdoba, it’s easiest to take the train since there are no direct buses (see below). Bus info: Los Amarillos (tel. 902-210-317, www.losamarillos.es), Portillo (tel. 902-450-550, http://portillo.avanzabus.com), and Comes (tel. 956-291-168, www.tgcomes.es). It’s best to just drop by and compare schedules (at the station on Plaza Concepción García Redondo, several blocks from train station), or pick up a bus timetable from the city TI.
By Train to: Algeciras (5-6/day, 1.5-2 hours), Bobadilla (4/day, 1 hour), Málaga (1/day, 2 hours, more with transfer in Bobadilla), Sevilla (5/day, 3-4 hours, transfer in Bobadilla, Antequera, or Cordboa), Granada (3/day, 2.5 hours), Córdoba (2/day direct, 1.75 hours; more with transfer in Bobadilla or Antequera, 3.75 hours), Madrid (2/day, 4 hours). Transfers are a snap and time-coordinated in Bobadilla; with four trains arriving and departing simultaneously, double-check that you’re jumping on the right one. Train info: tel. 902-320-320, www.renfe.com.
There are plenty of interesting hill towns to explore. Public transportation is frustrating, so I’d do these towns only by car. Useful information on the area is rare. Fortunately, a good map, the tourist brochure (pick it up in Sevilla or Ronda), and a spirit of adventure work fine.
Along with Arcos, Zahara de la Sierra and Grazalema are my favorite white villages. While Grazalema is a better overnight stop, Zahara is a delight for those who want to hear only the sounds of the wind, birds, and elderly footsteps on ancient cobbles.
This tiny town in a tingly setting under a Moorish castle (worth ▲ and the climb) has a spectacular view over a turquoise lake. While the big church facing the town square is considered one of the richest in the area, the smaller church has the most-loved statue. The Virgin of Dolores is Zahara’s answer to Sevilla’s Virgin of Macarena (and is similarly paraded through town during Holy Week).
The TI is located in the main plaza (Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00 & 16:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-12:30, gift shop, Plaza del Rey 3, tel. 956-123-114). It has a single computer with very slow Internet access (€1.50, one-hour limit). Upstairs from the TI are Spanish-only displays about the flora and fauna of nearby Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park.
Drivers can park for free in the main plaza, or continue up the hill to the parking lot at the base of the castle, just past the cliffside $$ Hotel Arco de la Villa, the town’s only real hotel (16 small modern rooms, Sb-€36, Db-€60, breakfast-€3, tel. 956-123-230, www.tugasa.com, arco-de-la-villa@tugasa.com). The street that connects both churches, Calle de San Juan, is lined with busy tapas bars and restaurants.
Sights in Zahara: During Moorish times, Zahara lay within the fortified castle walls above today’s town. It was considered the gateway to Granada and a strategic stronghold for the Moors by the Christian forces of the Reconquista. Locals tell of the Spanish conquest of the Moors’ castle (in 1482) as if it happened yesterday: After the Spanish failed several times to seize the castle, a clever Spanish soldier noticed that the Moorish sentinel would check if any attackers were hiding behind a particular section of the wall by tossing a rock and setting the pigeons in flight. If they flew, the sentinel figured there was no danger. One night a Spaniard hid there with a bag of pigeons and let them fly when the sentinel tossed his rock. Upon seeing the birds, the guard assumed he was clear to enjoy a snooze. The clever Spaniard then scaled the wall and opened the door to let in his troops, who conquered the castle. Ten years later Granada fell, the Muslims were back in Africa, and the Reconquista was complete.
It’s a fun climb up to the remains of the castle (free, tower always open). Start at the paved path across from the town’s upper parking lot. It’s a moderately easy 15-minute hike past some Roman ruins and along a cactus-rimmed ridge to the top, where you can enter the tower. Use your penlight or feel along the stairway to reach the roof, and enjoy spectacular views from this almost impossibly high perch far above the town. As you pretend you’re defending the tower, realize that what you see is quite different from what the Moors saw: The huge lake dominating the valley is a reservoir—before 1991, the valley had only a tiny stream.
A beautiful postcard-pretty hill town, Grazalema offers a royal balcony for a memorable picnic, a square where you can watch old-timers playing cards, and plenty of quiet whitewashed streets and shops to explore. Situated within Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, Grazalema is graced with lots of scenery and greenery. Driving here from Ronda on A-372, you pass through a beautiful park-like grove of cork trees. While the park is known as the rainiest place in Spain, the clouds seem to wring themselves out before they reach the town—I’ve only ever had blue skies. If you want to sleep in a small Andalusian hill town, this is a good choice.
The TI is located at the car park at the cliffside viewpoint, Plaza de los Asomaderos. It has WCs and a small gift shop featuring locally produced products (daily 10:00-14:00 & 15:30-19:00, tel. 956-132-052, www.grazalemaguide.com). Enjoy the view, then wander into the town.
A tiny lane leads a block from the center rear of the square to Plaza de Andalucía (filled by the tables of a commotion of tapas bars). Shops sell the town’s beautiful and famous handmade wool blankets and good-quality leather items from nearby Ubrique. A block farther uphill takes you to the main square with the church, Plaza de España. A coffee on the square here is a joy. Small lanes stretch from here into the rest of the town.
Popular with Spaniards, the town makes a good home base for exploring Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park—famous for its spectacularly rugged limestone landscape of cliffs, caves, and gorges (see sidebar). For outdoor gear and adventures, including hiking, caving, and canoeing, contact Horizon (summer Tue-Sat 9:00-14:00 & 17:00-20:00, rest of year Tue-Sat 9:00-14:00 & 16:00-19:00, closed Sun-Mon year-round, off Plaza de España at Corrales Terceros 29, tel. 956-132-363, mobile 655-934-565, www.horizonaventura.com).
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park is unique for its rugged mountain landscape and its relatively rainy climate, which support a wide variety of animals and plant life. One-third of Spain’s flowers bloom here, wild ibex (mountain goats) climb the steep slopes, and Europe’s largest colony of griffon vultures soars high above. The park’s plant poster child is the pinsapo, a type of fir tree left over from the last Ice Age (the park is one of the few places in Europe where these trees still grow). About a fifth of the 200-square-mile park is a special reserve area, where access is limited, largely to protect these rare trees from forest fires. Hikers need to get (free) permits for most trails in the reserve.
Zahara, Grazalema, and the Pileta Cave all fall within the park boundaries. Drivers will get an eyeful of scenery just passing through the park on their way to these sights.
If you want to more fully experience the park—by hiking, caving, canoeing, kayaking, or horseback riding—the easiest way is to take a tour from Zahara Catur (in Zahara, www.zaharacatur.com) or Horizon (in Grazalema, www.horizonaventura.com). They also handle the permit procedure for you.
If you want to hike in the park on your own, you’ll need a park map, a permit for most hikes within the reserve area (see hiking permit procedure), and a car to get to the trailhead. From July through September, you may have to go with a guided group anyway, if you want to hike in the reserve (about €13/person for a half-day hike, offered by Zahara Catur and Horizon).
Popular hikes in the reserve (all requiring permits) include:
Garganta Verde: Explore a canyon with a huge open cave near vulture breeding grounds (1.5 miles each way, initially gentle hike then very steep descent, allow 4-5 hours).
El Torreón: Climb the park’s highest mountain, at 5,427 feet (1.75 miles each way, steep incline to summit, allow 4-5 hours).
Pinsapar: Hike on mountain slopes forested with pinsapo trees (8.5 miles each way, steep climb for first third of trail then downhill, allow 6 hours).
Information: The TIs in Grazalema and Zahara sell a Spanish-only park guide with descriptions and trail maps (€15).
Getting a Hiking Permit: A permit is free but required; a ranger will fine you if you don’t have one. To get a permit, email, call, or visit the park office in the town of El Bosque, a gateway to the park. You can request a permit for a specific hike up to 30 days in advance. Pick up the permit in El Bosque, or have them fax it to the TI in Grazalema or Zahara (El Bosque park office hours generally Mon-Sat 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00, Sun 9:00-14:00, Avenida de la Diputación, tel. 956-727-029 or 956-709-733, cv_elbosque@egmasa.es). Include the date, the number of people in your group, the hike you want to do, and your passport number (allow plenty of time for this process).
Hikes from Grazalema (No Permit Required): If you’d rather not hassle with getting a permit, or if you don’t have a car to reach the trailheads, try one of several hikes that start from the town of Grazalema. You’ll find descriptions in pamphlets available at the Grazalema TI or Horizon (€1).
Sleeping in Grazalema: $$ La Mejorana Guesthouse is the best bet in town—if you can manage to get one of its six rooms. You won’t want to leave this beautifully perched garden villa, with its royal public rooms overlooking the valley from the upper part of town (Db-€58, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi, pool, located at top of town on tiny lane below Guardia Civil headquarters at Santa Clara 6, tel. 956-132-327, mobile 649-613-272, www.lamejorana.net, info@lamejorana.net, Ana and Andres can help with local hiking options).
$$ Hotel Peñón Grande, named for a nearby mountain, is just off the main square and rents 16 comfortable business-class rooms (Sb-€38, Db-€56, extra bed-€14, air-con, Plaza Pequeña 7, tel. 956-132-434, www.hotelgrazalema.com, hotel@hotelgrazalema.com).
$ Casa de Las Piedras, just a block from the main square, has 16 comfortable rooms with private baths (Sb-€35, Db-€48); 2 other rooms that share a single bathroom and have access to a kitchen and washing machine (D-€42); and 14 super-cheap basic rooms that share 5 bathrooms (D-€28, no access to kitchen or washing machine). The beds feature the town’s locally made wool blankets (10 percent discount with this book and two-night minimum stay, buffet breakfast-€6, Calle Las Piedras 32, tel. 956-132-014, mobile 627-415-047, www.casadelaspiedras.es, reservas@casadelaspiedras.net, Caty and Rafi.
Eating in Grazalema: Grazalema offers many restaurants and bars. Tiny Plaza de Andalucía has several good bars for tapas with umbrella-flecked tables spilling across the square, including Zulema (big salads), La Posadilla, and La Cidulia. The recommended Casa de Las Piedras (earlier) has an adjacent restaurant (same name) that offers tapas, fixed-price meals, and several vegetarian options. To pick up picnic supplies, head to the Día supermarket (Mon-Sat 9:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00, Sun 9:00-14:00, on Calle Corrales Terceros 3).
El Torreón specializes in local lamb and game dishes, and also has many vegetarian options (closed Wed, Calle Agua 44, tel. 956-132-313).
Meson el Simancon serves well-presented cuisine typical of the region in a romantic setting. While a bit more expensive, it’s considered the best restaurant in town (closed Tue, facing Plaza de los Asomaderos and the car park, tel. 956-132-421).
La Maroma Bar serves home-cooked regional specialties, three meals a day, at affordable prices (€1.20-3 tapas, €4-8 meat and fish plates, daily 8:00 until late, Calle Santa Clara, near La Mejorana Guesthouse, tel. 617-543-756, José & María).
Grazalema Connections: From Grazalema by Bus to: Ronda (2/day, 45 minutes), El Bosque (2/day, 45 minutes). Bus service is provided by Los Amarillos (www.losamarillos.es).
With more than 200,000 people, Jerez (officially Jerez de la Frontera) is your typical big-city mix of industry and dusty concrete suburbs, but it has a lively old center and two claims to touristic fame: horses and sherry. Jerez is ideal for a noontime visit on a weekday. See the famous horses, sip some sherry, wander through the old quarter, and swagger out.
Thanks to its complicated, medieval street plan, there is no easy way to feel oriented in Jerez—so ask for directions liberally.
The helpful TI, on Plaza del Arenal, gives out free maps and info on the sights (June-Sept Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00 & 17:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 9:30-14:30; Oct-May Mon-Fri 8:30-15:00 & 16:00-18:30, Sat-Sun 9:00-15:00; tel. 956-338-874, www.turismojerez.com). If you’re walking to see the horses, ask here for detailed directions, as the route is a bit confusing.
By Bus or Train: The bus and train stations are located side by side, near the Plaza del Minotauro (with enormous headless statue). Unfortunately, you can’t store luggage at either one. You can stow bags for free in the Royal Andalusian School’s guardaropa (coat room) if you attend their Horse Symphony show, but only for the duration of the performance.
Cheap and easy taxis wait in front of the train station (€4 to TI; about €5 to the horses). It’s a 20-minute walk from the stations to the center of town and the TI: Angle to the left across the brick plaza (in front of train station, with two black smokestacks) to find Calle Diego Fernández de Herrera. Go right, following this street faithfully for several blocks until you reach Plaza de las Angustias. Head left toward the church and continue in the same direction, straight down Calle Corredera, until you arrive at Plaza del Arenal (ringed with palm trees, with a large fountain in the center)—the TI is across the plaza on your left.
By Car from Arcos: Driving in Jerez can be frustrating. The outskirts are filled with an almost endless series of roundabouts. Continuing straight through each one will eventually bring a rail bridge into sight. Continue to follow traffic and signs to centro ciudad. The route may seem circuitous (it is), but it will ultimately take you into Plaza Alameda Cristina. From here, it’s best to park in one of the many underground garages (at Plaza Alameda Cristina or Plaza Arenal, €1.30/hour) and catch a cab or walk. For street parking, blue-line zones require prepaid parking tickets on your dashboard (Mon-Fri 9:00-13:30 & 17:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-14:00, free on Sun and July-Aug afternoons).
If you’re into horses, a performance of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art (Fundación Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre) is a must. Even if you’re not, this is art like you’ve never seen.
Getting There: On foot, from the TI at Plaza del Arenal, it’s about a half-hour walk down mostly pedestrianized shopping streets to the horses. Leave the plaza on Calle Lanceria, heading to the left of the rounded Tino La Ina Fundador building to Calle Larga. Turn right into Plaza Alameda Christina, which leads into Plaza Memelon. From here, follow the Real Escuela de Arte Ecuestre signs.
From the bus or train stations to the horses, it’s about a €5 taxi ride. Taxis wait in Plaza Mamelon for the return trip.
One-way streets mean there is only one way to arrive by car. Follow signs to Real Escuela de Arte Ecuestre. Expect to make at least one wrong turn, so allow a little extra time. You’ll find parking behind the school.
This is an equestrian ballet with choreography, purely Spanish music, and costumes from the 19th century. The stern riders and their talented, obedient steeds prance, jump, hop on their hind legs, and do-si-do in time to the music, all to the delight of an arena filled with mostly tourists and local horse aficionados.
The riders cue the horses with subtle dressage commands, either verbally or with body movements. You’ll see both purebred Spanish horses (of various colors, with long tails, calm personalities, and good jumping ability) and the larger mixed breeds (with short tails and a walking—not prancing—gait). The horses must be three years old before their three-year training begins, and most performing horses are male (stallions or geldings), since mixing the sexes brings problems.
The equestrian school is a university, open to all students in the EU, and with all coursework in Spanish. Although still a male-dominated activity, there have recently been a few female graduates. Tight-fitted mushroom hats are decorated with different stripes to show each rider’s level. Professors often team with students and evaluate their performance during the show.
Cost and Hours: General seating-€21, “preference” seating-€27; 1.5-hour show runs Tue and Thu at 12:00 most of the year (also on Fri in Aug, Nov-Feb Thu only); no photos allowed in show, stables, or museum; tel. 956-318-008, tickets available online at www.realescuela.org. General seating is fine; some “preference” seats are too close for good overall views. The show explanations are in Spanish.
The public can get a sneak preview at training sessions on non-performance days. Sessions can be exciting or dull, depending on what the trainers are working on. Afterward, you can take a 1.5-hour guided tour of the stables, horses, multimedia and carriage museums, tack room, gardens, and horse health center. Sip sherry in the arena’s bar to complete this Jerez experience.
Cost and Hours: €11; Mon, Wed, and Fri—except no Fri in Aug, also on Tue in Nov-Feb; arrive anytime between 10:00 and 14:00—they’ll start the tour when they have a large-enough group. Tour groups crowd in at 11:00 and schedules may vary, so it’s wise to call ahead.
Spain produces more than 10 million gallons per year of the fortified wine known as sherry. The name comes from English attempts to pronounce Jerez. Although sherry was traditionally the drink of England’s aristocracy, today’s producers are leaving the drawing-room vibe behind. Your tourist map of Jerez is speckled with venencia symbols, each representing a sherry bodega that offers tours and tasting. Venencias are specially designed ladles for dipping inside the sherry barrel, breaking through the yeast layer, and getting to the good stuff.
Spanish sherry is not the sweet dessert wine sold in the States as sherry. In Spain, sherry is (most commonly) a chilled very dry fortified white wine, often served with appetizers such as tapas, seafood, and cured meats.
British traders invented the sherry-making process as a way of transporting wines so they wouldn’t go bad on a long sea voyage. Some of the most popular brands (such as Sandeman and Osbourne) were begun by Brits, and for years it was a foreigners’ drink. But today, sherry is typically Spanish.
Sherry is made by blending wines from different grapes and vintages, all aged together. Start with a strong, acidic wine (from grapes that grow well in the hot, chalky soil around Jerez). Mature it in large vats until a yeast crust (flor) forms on the surface, protecting the wine from the air. Then fortify it with distilled alcohol.
Next comes sherry-making’s distinct solera process. Pour the young fortified wine into the top barrel of a unique contraption—a stack of oak barrels called a criadera. Every year, one-third of the oldest sherry (in the barrels on the ground level) is bottled. To replace it, one-third of the sherry in the barrel above is poured in, and so on. This continues until the top barrel is one-third empty, waiting to be filled with the new year’s vintage.
Fino is the most popular type of sherry (and the most different from Americans’ expectations)—white, dry, and chilled. The best-selling commercial brand of fino is Tío Pepe; manzanilla is a regional variation of fino, as is montilla from Córdoba. Darker-colored and sometimes sweeter varieties of sherry include amontillado and oloroso. And yes, Spain also produces the thick, sweet cream sherries served as dessert wines. A good raisin-y, syrupy-sweet variety is Pedro Ximénez, made from sun-dried grapes of the same name.
Just around the corner from the horse school is the venerable Sandeman winery, founded in 1790 and the longtime choice of English royalty. This tour is the aficionado’s choice for its knowledgeable guides and their quality explanations of the process. Each stage is explained in detail, with visual examples of flor (the yeast crust) in backlit barrels, graphs of how different blends are made, and a quick walk-through of the bottling plant. The finale is a chance to taste three varieties. For efficiency, first see the Horse Symphony, which ends at 13:30, then walk to Sandeman’s for the next English tour.
Cost and Hours: €7 for regular sherries, up to €21 for rare sherries, €7.50 adds tapas to the tasting, tour/tasting lasts 1-1.5 hours; English tours Mon, Wed, and Fri at 11:30, 12:30, and 13:30 plus April-Oct also at 14:30; Tue and Thu at 10:30, 12:00, 13:00, and 14:00; Sat by appointment only, closed Sun; reservations not required, tel. 665-655-318, mobile 675-647-177, www.sandeman.eu.
The makers of the famous Tío Pepe offer a tourist-friendly tour, with more pretense and less actual sherry-making on display (that’s done in a new, enormous plant outside town). The tourist train through fake vineyards and a video presentation are forgettable, but the grand circle of sherry casks signed by a Who’s Who of sherry drinkers is worthwhile. Taste two sherries at the end of the 1.5-hour tour.
Cost and Hours: €12.50, light tapas lunch with tour-€17; tours run Mon-Sat at 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, and 17:00; Sun at 13:00 and 14:00; Manuel María González 12, tel. 956-357-017, www.bodegastiopepe.com.
You’ll come across many other sherry bodegas in town, including Fundador Pedro Domecq, located near the cathedral. This bodega is the oldest in Jerez, and the birthplace of the city’s brandy. Tastings here are generous (€8, April-Oct tours run Mon-Fri hourly between 10:00-13:00 & 17:00-19:00, July-Sept also Mon-Fri at 20:00; €13 tastings with tapas are offered Tue-Wed and Sat at 14:00—call to confirm times, Calle San Ildefonso 3, tel. 956-151-152, www.bodegasfundadorpedrodomecq.com).
This gutted castle looks tempting, but don’t bother. The €5 entry fee doesn’t even include the Camera Obscura (€7 combo-ticket covers both, Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00—or until 20:00 in mid-July-mid-Sept, Sat-Sun 9:00-15:00). Its underground parking is convenient for those touring González Byass (€1.30/hour).
Jerez’s bus station is shared by six bus companies, each with its own schedule. The big ones serving most southern Spain destinations are Los Amarillos (tel. 902-210-317, www.losamarillos.es), Comes (tel. 956-291-168, www.tgcomes.es), and Linesur (tel. 956-341-063, www.linesur.com). Shop around for the best departure time and most direct route. While here, clarify routes for any further bus travel you may be doing in Andalucía—especially if you’re going through Arcos de la Frontera, where the ticket office is often closed. Also try the privately run www.movelia.es for bus schedules and routes.
From Jerez by Bus to: Tarifa (1/day on Algeciras route, 2 hours, more frequent with transfer in Cádiz, Comes), Algeciras (2/day, 2.5 hours, Comes; 6/day, fewer on weekends, 1.5 hours, Linesur), Arcos (hourly, 30 minutes), Ronda (2/day, 2.5-3 hours), La Línea/Gibraltar (1/day, 2.5 hours), Sevilla (hourly, 1-1.5 hours), Granada (1/day, 4.75 hours).
By Train to: Sevilla (nearly hourly, 1 hour), Madrid (3-4/day direct, 3.75 hours; nearly hourly with change in Sevilla, 4 hours), Barcelona (nearly hourly, 7-9 hours, all with change in Sevilla and/or Madrid). Train info: tel. 902-320-320, www.renfe.com.
If you’re driving between Arcos and Tarifa, here are several sights to explore.
This breeding farm, which raises Hispanic Arab horses according to traditions dating back to the 15th century, offers shows on Saturday at 11:00 (€21.50 for best seats in tribuna section, €15.50 for seats in the stands, Finca Fuente del Suero, Carretera Medina-El Portal, km 6.5, Jerez de la Frontera, tel. 956-162-809, www.yeguadacartuja.com). From Jerez, take the road to Medina Sidonia, then turn right in the direction of El Portal—you’ll see a cement factory on your right. Drive for five minutes until you see the farm. A taxi from Jerez will cost about €15 one-way.
This town is as whitewashed as can be, surrounding its church and hill, which is topped with castle ruins. I never drive through here without a coffee break and a quick stroll. Signs to centro urbano route you through the middle to Plaza de España (lazy cafés, bakery, plenty of free parking just beyond the square out the gate). If it’s lunchtime, consider buying a picnic, as all the necessary shops are nearby and the plaza benches afford a solid workaday view of a perfectly untouristy Andalusian town. According to its own TI, the town is “much appreciated for its vast gastronomy.” Small lanes lead from the main square up to Plaza Iglesia Mayor (church and TI open daily 10:30-14:00 & 16:30-18:30, tel. 956-412-404, www.medinasidonia.com). At the church, a man will show you around for a tip. Even without giving a tip, you can climb yet another belfry for yet another vast Andalusian view. The castle ruins just aren’t worth the trouble.
Vejer, south of Jerez and just 30 miles north of Tarifa, will lure all but the very jaded off the highway. Vejer’s strong Moorish roots give it a distinct Moroccan (or Greek Island) flavor—you know, black-clad women whitewashing their homes, and lanes that can’t decide if they’re roads or stairways. The town has no real sights—other than its women’s faces—and very little tourism, making it a pleasant stop. The TI is at Calle de los Remedios 2 (tel. 956-451-736, www.turismovejer.es).
The coast near Vejer has a lonely feel, but its pretty, windswept beaches are popular with windsurfers and sand flies. The Battle of Trafalgar was fought just off Cabo de Trafalgar (a nondescript lighthouse today). I drove the circle so you don’t have to.
Sleeping in Vejer: A newcomer on Andalucía’s tourist map, the old town of Vejer has just a few hotels.
$$ Hotel Convento San Francisco is a poor man’s parador in a refurbished convent with pristine, spacious rooms and elegant public lounges (Sb-€52, Db-€74, breakfast-€3.35, air-con, Wi-Fi in lobby, La Plazuela, tel. 956-451-001, www.tugasa.com, convento-san-francisco@tugasa.com).
$ Hostal La Posada’s 10 clean and charming rooms, in a modern apartment flat, are cheap and funky. This family-run place has no reception (S-€20-25, Db-€35-40, higher prices are for mid-July-Aug, Calle de los Remedios 21, tel. 956-450-258, www.hostal-laposada.com, no English spoken).
The road-numbering system from the coast into Sevilla was changed a few years back—don’t rely on an old driving map.
Sevilla to Arcos (55 miles): The remote hill towns of Andalucía are a joy to tour by car with Michelin map 578 or any other good map. Drivers can zip south on N-IV from Sevilla along the river, following signs to Cádiz. Take the fast toll expressway (blue signs, E-5, A-4); the toll-free N-IV is curvy and dangerous. About halfway to Jerez, at Las Cabezas, take CA-403 to Villamartín. From there, circle scenically (and clockwise) through the thick of the Pueblos Blancos—Zahara and Grazalema—to Arcos.
It’s about two hours from Sevilla to Zahara. You’ll find decent but winding roads and sparse traffic. It gets worse (but very scenic) if you take the tortuous series of switchbacks over the 4,500-foot summit of Puerto de Las Palomas (Pass of the Pigeons, climb to the viewpoint) on the direct but difficult road from Zahara to Grazalema (you’ll see several hiking trailheads into Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, though most require free permits—see sidebar on here).
Another scenic option through the park from Grazalema to Arcos is the road that goes up over Puerto del Boyar (Pass of the Boyar), past the pretty little valley town of Benamahoma, and down to El Bosque. The road from Ronda to El Gastor, Setenil (cave houses and great olive oil), and Olvera is another picturesque alternative.
Arcos to Tarifa (80 miles): You can drive from Arcos to Jerez in about 40 minutes. If you’re going to Tarifa, take the tiny C-343 road at the Jerez edge of Arcos toward Paterna and Vejer. Later, you’ll pick up signs to Medina Sidonia, and then to Vejer and Tarifa.
Costa del Sol to Ronda and Beyond: Drivers coming up from the coast catch A-397 at San Pedro de Alcántara and climb about 20 miles into the mountains. The much longer, winding A-369 offers a scenic alternative that takes you through a series of whitewashed villages.