RHODE ISLAND
Rhode Island is not an island at all, but it claims more than its share of dramatic rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, and languid riverbanks. The state was founded by religious dissenters from Massachusetts who chafed at the orthodoxies of Boston and Salem Puritans. The smallest US state, Rhode Island is divided by the very large, fan-shaped Narragansett Bay. At the head of the bay, the capital city of Providence revels in both its Colonial history and its futuristic outlook – the latter courtesy of its colleges and universities. The South County coastline west of the bay features idyllic barrier beaches with long, golden strands and fertile marshes trapped behind high dunes. The mouth of the bay is crossed by stepping-stone islands (and magnificent bridges) that lead to the first home of the US Navy, now the yachting capital of Newport.
1. Newport
Nineteenth-century mansions and a snug harbor dotted with racing yachts and speedboats make this city one of the great American summer destinations. The downtown area is a history buff’s delight (for further details see Newport, Rhode Island ).
2. Providence
Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) (, RISD Museum, Providence, RI ), a top US art school, provides zing to downtown Providence, a city also known as a major dining destination. Benefit Street’s “Mile of History” captures in its museums and historic houses 250 years of New England life. Visit the traditionally Italian district of Federal Hill for restaurants, salumerias, and coffee shops.
Modern buildings dominating the skyline of Providence
3. Pawtucket
So close to Providence that it’s hard to distinguish the two, Pawtucket flourished because it sits at the mouth of the Blackstone River, the storied stream of 19th-century industry that drains central New England. Samuel Slater opened the country’s first successful cotton mill (for further details see Slater Mill, RI ) here in 1793, jump-starting the American Industrial Revolution. Today it is best known for the minor-league Pawtucket Red Sox , and its September Dragon Boat Race.
The historic Slater Mill at Pawtucket
4. Tiverton/Little Compton
Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyards • 162 W Main Rd, Little Compton • 800 919 4637
• open late May–mid-Oct: 11am–6pm daily (to 8pm Thu–Sat); mid-Oct–late May: 11am–5pm daily (to 6pm Fri–Sat) •
www.sakonnetwine.com
Occupying their own little peninsula between Narragansett Bay and the Massachusetts border, Tiverton (for further details see Tiverton Four Corners, RI ) and Little Compton are insulated from the modern world by woods and rolling farmland. Watch for roadside stands selling seasonal strawberries and sweet corn. Wine grapes also flourish. Visit Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyards for tours and tastings.
Sakonnet Vineyards, Little Compton
5. Watch Hill
The glorious beaches of South County, the Rhode Island shore west of Point Judith, reach their apogee at Watch Hill, an old-fashioned seaside community of the town of Westerly. The village also boasts the charming Flying Horse Carousel .
6. Bristol
Herreshoff Marine Museum • 1 Burnside St • 401 253 5000
• open Apr–mid-Dec: 10am–5pm daily • adm •
www.herreshoff.org
Blithewold Mansion & Gardens • 101 Ferry Rd • 401 253 2707
• open Apr–May: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun; Jun–mid-Oct: 10am–4pm Tue–Sat (to 3pm Sun) • adm •
www.blithewold.org
Renowned for jubilant Independence Day celebrations that date from 1785, Bristol is a charming deep-water seaport on the east side of Narragansett Bay. The village is home to the Herreshoff yacht-building firm, whose museum also traces the history of the America’s Cup, the most prestigious prize in yacht-racing. Visit the house and gardens of the Blithewold estate, where Rhode Island brides flock to wed with spectacular vistas of Narragansett Bay as a backdrop.
7. Block Island
Block Island Ferry • Pt Judith • 401 783 7996
•
www.blockislandferry.com
Just 15 miles (24 km) off the coast, Block Island has long been a summer vacation haven for New Englanders. A quarter of its land is protected against development (zoning prohibits modern structures), and 30 miles (48 km) of nature trails crisscross the pear-shaped island. Crescent Beach, just north of the Victorian resort village of Old Harbor, has fabulous swimming and – when the wind is right – good surfing. Deep-sea fishing excursions are popular day-trips from Old Harbor.
8. Narragansett/Point Judith
In 1900, a fire destroyed the hotels and casino that made Narragansett Beach a high-society resort. Today, families and sunbathers rule the beach while surfers in wetsuits ride the waves. The peninsula going south ends at Point Judith, which shelters the fishing port of Galilee. Whale-watching and deep-sea-fishing cruise vessels share berths with the fishing boats. Don’t miss fish dinner at George’s of Galilee (for further details see George’s of Galilee & Scales & Shells ).
Lighthouse, Point Judith
9. Wickford
Kayak Centre of Rhode Island • 9 Phillips St • 401 295 4400
• daily year-round • adm •
www.kayakcentre.com
Artists and craftspeople have flocked to this historic, picturesque village near North Kingstown, and their galleries and shops are big lures for daytrippers. What few visitors realize is that Wickford’s location on the west side of Narragansett Bay makes it the ideal launching point for exploring the bay by sea kayak. Inquire about expert guided paddles at the Kayak Centre.
Frosty Drew Observatory • 61 Park Ln, Ninigret Park • 401 364 9508
• open clear Fri nights •
www.frostydrew.org
10. It can be hard to tell whether Charlestown is land or water, as the 4-mile (6.5-km) coastline encompasses the largest saltwater marshes in the state. You’ll find some of New England’s best birding for wading birds and waterfowl in this watery ecosystem between land and sea. Sprawling Ninigret Park has tracks for cyclists and bladers as well as a swimming pool and tennis courts. Every clear Friday night, join the astronomy buffs at Frosty Drew Observatory to scan the skies.
Frosty Drew Observatory, Charlestown
WHAT A SPAN!
Constructed 1966–9, Newport’s Claiborne Pell Bridge is the longest bridge in Rhode Island and the largest suspension bridge in New England. With a main span of 1,601 ft (488 m) and an overall length of 11,247 ft (3,428 m), the bridge arcs over Narragansett Bay to connect Jamestown and Newport.
NAVIGATING FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT
Morning
Start the day in Providence with a stroll around Waterplace Park, a broad pool and amphitheater between Francis and Exchange streets. Cross the Steeple Street Bridge, noting the soaring Ionic columns of the First Baptist Church in America on the left. Pop into Café Choklad (12 Thomas St) for brioche and hot chocolate before entering the RISD Museum , paying special attention to the contemporary art in many different media. The attached store specializes in creations by RISD-affiliated designers.
Afternoon
Take I-195 east to Rte 136 south to reach picturesque Bristol . Eat stuffies (stuffed clams) for lunch at Thames Waterside Bar & Grill (251 Thames St) and see the America’s Cup exhibits at the Herreshoff Marine Museum (1 Burnside St) before continuing south on Rte 114 to Newport . Take a Gilded Age mansion tour of The Breakers (44 Ochre Pt Ave) and get seats on a sunset cruise in Newport harbor (Bannisters Wharf) aboard a schooner or a motor yacht.
Evening
Make a night of it at The Landing (30 Bowen’s Wharf), a large and entertaining waterfront eating and drinking establishment known for its raw bar, live music, and maritime-themed cocktails.
The Best of the Rest
1. Audubon Society of Rhode Island Environmental Education Center
1401 Hope St, Rte 114, Bristol • 401 245 7500
• Open mid-Apr–mid-Oct: daily; mid-Oct–mid-Apr: Wed–Sun • Adm •
www.asri.org
Explore marine life at this family-friendly wildlife refuge.
2. Green Animals Topiary Garden
380 Cory’s Lane, off Rte 114, Portsmouth • 401 847 1000
• Open late May–early Oct: daily • Adm •
www.newportmansions.org
A Rhode Island Red rooster is one of the 80 topiaries at the US’s oldest topiary garden, located on a small country estate in Portsmouth.
Green Animals Topiary Garden
3. Beavertail Lighthouse Museum
Beavertail State Park, Jamestown • 401 423 3270
• Open Jun–Sep: daily; Oct: Sat & Sun • Adm •
www.beavertaillight.org
There has been a lighthouse on this site since 1749. The keeper’s house is now a museum.
4. Casey Farm
2325 Boston Neck Rd, Saunderstown (North Kingstown) • 401 295 1030
• Open Jun–mid-Oct: Mon–Fri • Adm
This 18th-century farmhouse offers a glimpse into Rhode Island’s agricultural past. Produce grown here is sold on Saturdays.
5. City Center Ice Rink
2 Kennedy Plaza, Providence • 401 331 5544
• Open late Nov–early Mar: daily • Adm •
provparksconservancy.org/visit/ice-skating
Skate in the shadow of the state’s tallest skyscraper, the 428-ft (130-m) Art Deco “Superman Building.”
6. Pawtuxet Village
Warwick
A mid-June parade marks the 1772 burning of a British ship by local patriots. Dozens of Colonial buildings feature in the historic district.
7. Museum of Work and Culture
42 S Main St, Woonsocket • 401 769 9675
• Closed Mon • Adm •
www.rihs.org
This museum in a former textile mill details the lives of those who worked here and in other local factories.
8. Gilbert Stuart Birthplace and Museum
815 Gilbert Stuart Rd, Saunderstown • 401 294 3001
• Open May–mid-Jun, Sep–mid-Oct: Thu–Mon; mid-Jun–Aug: daily • Adm •
www.gilbertstuartmuseum.org
Artist Gilbert Stuart (1755–1828) painted the celebrities of his day. A tour of his birthplace uncovers his modest beginnings.
9. East Bay Bike Path
Zip down the bayside path between East Providence and Bristol for views of Narragansett Bay on one side, herons and egrets on the other.
10. Pawtucket Red Sox Baseball, McCoy Stadium
1 Columbus Ave, Pawtucket • 401 724 7300
• Open Apr–Sep • Adm •
www.pawsox.com
Many top baseball players perfected their game with this Boston Triple-A team. Grab a seat in McCoy Stadium and you might spot the next star.
Restaurants
1. White Horse Tavern
26 Marlborough St, Newport • 401 849 3600
• Closed Sun L; open Sun brunch • $$$
America’s oldest tavern, with beamed ceilings, log fires, and candlelit tables, offers classic American cuisine.
2. Le Central
483 Hope St, Bristol • 401 396 9965
• Closed Sun–Mon • $$
East Bay (as in Narragansett) meets Left Bank (as in Paris) at this French bistro with a short menu of excellent comfort food (such as cassoulet with duck confit) and great local fish.
3. Trio
15 Kingstown Rd, Narragansett • 401 792 4333
• $$
Eat chops, pasta, and seafood at bargain prices or dig into a juicy rib-eye steak or pan-seared scallops.
4. Al Forno
577 S Main St, Providence • 401 273 9760
• Closed Tue–Sat L, Sun, Mon • $$
Al Forno has a great reputation for its tasty baked pastas and meats roasted in a wood-fired oven.
5. Seasons at Ocean House
1 Bluff Ave, Westerly • 401 584 7000
• Closed Sun L, D Mon–Tue • $$$
This hotel restaurant has an open kitchen that lets diners watch the chefs prepare elegant seasonal American dishes with creative touches.
Ocean House, perched on a bluff
6. New Rivers
7 Steeple St, Providence • 401 751 0350
• Closed L, Sun D • $$
Spicy contemporary cooking at its best pairs with an intimate dining space for a truly romantic experience.
7. Chez Pascal
960 Hope St, Providence • 401 421 4422
• Closed L, Sun • $$
The chef-owner of this unabashedly Burgundian bistro makes his own pâtés, sausages, and confits. Share a charcuterie appetizer then follow it up with the pork of the day.
8. Wright’s Farm Restaurant
84 Inman Rd, Harrisville • 401 769 2856
• Closed Mon–Fri L, Mon–Wed D • $
This 1,000-seater is the best of the Rhode Island “all-you-can-eat chicken dinner” restaurants.
9. Restaurant 1879, Atlantic Inn
High St, Block Island • 401 466 5883
• Closed L all year; late Apr–late May & Sep–late Oct Mon–Wed D • $$
Fish and farm produce feature on the menu at this contemporary American eatery. The verandah tables offer spectacular views of the sunset.
10. Simone’s
275 Child St, Warren • 401 247 1200
• Closed L, Mon; open brunch Fri–Sun • $$
Dinner features inventive American fare with Mediterranean accents, but chef Joe Simone’s first love is spicy brunch plates.
Cafés and Bars
1. Perks & Corks
48 High St, Westerly
By day, Perks & Corks is a slacker’s dream of a coffee bar, with smooth lattes, free Wi-Fi, and enveloping sofas. Then after dark it morphs into a bar serving wines by the glass and killer cocktails.
2. Chan’s Fine Oriental Dining
267 Main St, Woonsocket
Known for its “eggroll jazz,” Chan’s really hops on the weekends when blues bands and small jazz combos set the diners’ fingers snapping. The Chinese fare draws on several regional cuisines.
3. Fluke Wine, Bar & Kitchen
41 Bowen’s Wharf, Newport
Catch the sunset sitting at this atmospheric bar on Newport Harbor, while enjoying a glass of chardonnay with a bowl of steamed clams.
4. 22 Bowen’s Wine Bar and Grille
22 Bowen’s Wharf, Newport
More than 600 wines make this bar and steakhouse a wine-lover’s oasis. Watch boat traffic in the harbor, while tucking into prime rib or slurping down oysters.
Outside dining at 22 Bowen’s
5. Trinity Brewhouse
186 Fountain St, Providence
Trinity is a “United Nations” of beer; its ales, lagers, and stout made on the premises recall English, German, and Irish styles. It’s a popular after-show venue with playgoers at Trinity Repertory Theatre.
6. Olympia Tea Room
74 Bay St, Watch Hill
Score one of the outdoor tables at this delightful spot near the Flying Horses Carousel, and you can watch the action while you sip white wine and eat roasted clams with linguine.
7. Scales & Shells
527 Thames St, Newport
After the dinner rush, this all-fish restaurant turns into a convivial bar where patrons can enjoy local shellfish from the raw bar with a glass of wine or beer.
8. George’s of Galilee
250 Sand Hill Cove Rd, Galilee
Stop off here to savor the pick of the catch from the Galilee fishermen; many spend their evenings at the bar.
9. Costantino’s Venda Ravioli
265 Atwells Ave, Providence
This Italian gourmet shop, with a huge selection of pastas, cheeses, and sausages, also serves coffee and food at tables in the back.
10. McKinley’s Waterfront
1 Division St, East Greenwich
This warm Irish pub is a welcome find on a cool winter night, especially thanks to more than 20 ales on tap. In summer, the outdoor seating overlooking Greenwich Bay is an ideal spot to sip a brew and watch the sailboats go by.
Places to Shop
1. RISD Works
Chace Center, 20 N Main St, Providence • Closed Mon
Creativity abounds at the RISD Works, the RISD Museum store, which showcases fashion, furniture, toys, and tools from alumni and faculty members of the school.
Colorful display at RISD Works
2. The Fantastic Umbrella Factory
4820 Old Post Rd, Charlestown
No umbrellas are made here and it isn’t a factory. It’s actually a maze of unusual little shops selling work by local craftsmen and artists, novelty gifts, ethnic treasures, and even pots and plants.
3. Brown & Hopkins Country Store
1179 Putnam Pike, Chepachet
Children can select from the “penny candy” counter while their parents browse the home furnishings and accessories at this historic store.
4. Bowen’s Wharf
America’s Cup Ave, Newport
Shops on this 18th-century wharf have a nautical flavor. Landlubbers can easily outfit themselves to look like seasoned sailors.
5. Warren
If it’s old, you’ll probably find it here. A cluster of shops in the compact downtown area of this former whaling port and mill town have turned it into a collector’s paradise.
6. Gray’s Grist Mill
Adamsville Rd, Adamsville
For cornmeal to make jonnycakes at home, stop at this old mill on a weekend to see local flint corn ground between immense stones from France.
7. Peter Pots Pottery
494 Glen Rock Rd, West Kingston
Collectors favor the modern lines and distinctive glazes of Peter Pots Pottery, founded in 1948. The studio, in an 18th-century mill building, displays the complete line of dinnerware and decorative pieces.
Glazed pot, Peter Pots Pottery
8. Pier Marketplace
Narragansett Town Beach, Narragansett
On breaks from the beach, sunbathers browse the resort wear and gift shops here, then treat themselves to ice cream or a bag of saltwater taffy.
9. Providence Place
1 Providence Place, Providence
This shopping mall in the heart of downtown Providence overlooks Waterfront Park, and has every local and national chain you could ask for.
10. Garden City Center
Rte 2, Cranston
This outdoors village-like complex 7 miles (11 km) from Providence offers the same range of shops and dining that you’ll find in enclosed malls.