VERMONT
The majestic Green Mountains that cover Vermont compensate for the lack of a seacoast. Between the peaks stand high green meadows and deep, dark lakes, two of which are said to harbor sea serpents. Settled in the 1700s under conflicting land grants from New York and New Hampshire, Vermont was an independent republic from 1777, becoming the 14th US state in 1791. A rugged independence persists in Vermonters, who despite severe winter weather seem to be outdoors year-round, hiking, skiing, skating, sledding, cycling, kayaking, hunting, and fishing, sometimes against a brilliant background of fall leaves.
1. Green Mountains
It would scarcely be an exaggeration to say that Vermont is the Green Mountains and vice versa, as this ancient range in the Appalachian chain touches almost every part of the state (for further details see Green Mountains, Vermont ).
The breathtaking wilderness of the beautiful Green Mountains
2. Brattleboro
Vermont’s first permanent English settlement, Brattleboro flourished in the 19th century as a Connecticut River manufacturing town at the juncture of Vermont, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. The town got a new lease on life in the 1960s as the counterculture capital of the upper Connecticut River Valley, and is known around the state for its stridently liberal politics. The thriving cultural community includes several galleries, a performing arts center, and a school of circus arts that is open to the general public.
3. Newport
Vermont’s northernmost city is set at the southern edge of Lake Memphremagog, a body of water 27 miles (43 km) long that is shared with the province of Quebec. A glacial lake that was a saltwater inland sea at the end of the Laurentian glaciation, Memphremagog has long been rumored to hold a sea serpent akin to the Loch Ness Monster. Sightings of the elusive creature that locals call “Memphre” date to the 18th century. Take a stroll along the attractive waterfront and see if you can spy those watery coils from the safety of the shore.
4. Montpelier
For an iconic Vermont image, stop along State Street during foliage season to take a snapshot of the gold-domed State House backed by a hillside of red and flame-orange maple trees. The city was selected for state capital in 1805 because it lies at the geographic center of Vermont as well as in the main east-west pass through the Green Mountains. The highly regarded New England Culinary Institute guarantees that Montpelier eats well, especially at the school’s NECI on Main .
Vermont State House, Montpelier
5. Grafton
Plummer’s Sugar House • 2866 Townshend Rd • 802 843 2207
•
www.plummerssugarhouse.com
Grafton Village Cheese Co • 533 Townshend Rd • 800 472 3866
•
www.graftonvillagecheese.com
Old Tavern • 92 Main St • 802 843 2231
Wealthy philanthropists saved this beautiful village in the 1960s by forming the Windham Foundation to restore its handsome buildings and revitalize commerce. Visit Plummer’s Sugar House or the Grafton Village Cheese Co., or enjoy a delicious meal at the 200-year-old Old Tavern.
6. Shelburne
Vermont Wildflower Farm • 3488 Ethan Allen Hwy, Charlotte • 802 425 3641
• open mid-May–mid-Sep: 10am–3:30pm Mon–Fri •
www.vermontwildflowerfarm.com
Standing on high banks above Lake Champlain just south of Burlington, Shelburne is a village of magnificent dairy farms, not least among them the historic spread of Shelburne Farms . A locomotive, a steamship, and buildings crammed with folk art dot the rolling meadows of Shelburne Museum . South of town, just into Charlotte, the Vermont Wildflower Farm has over 350 species of flowering plants and trees on the grounds.
Verdant pastures of Shelburne Farms
7. Northeast Kingdom
“Northeast Kingdom” refers to Essex, Orleans, and Caledonia counties in the state’s northeast corner – an area sometimes referred to simply as “The Kingdom.” In Vermont cultural shorthand, the term connotes both a rural, frontier toughness and an easy familiarity with the latest developments in the world of avant-garde performance art. With only two large communities, St. Johnsbury and Newport, it is one of the most rural parts of the state. The Northeast Kingdom is known above all for skiing, resplendent autumn foliage, and maple syrup.
Skiing in Northeast Kingdom
8. Burlington
Settled shortly before the American Revolution, Burlington, unlike the rest of Vermont, takes its identity less from the Green Mountains than from the great inland sea of Lake Champlain. Burlington shipyards turned the mountain timber into trading vessels. Visitors can learn about the region’s history on the Lake Champlain Cruise . Blessed with a handsome, largely 19th-century downtown, Burlington also enjoys a busy cultural life as a by-product of the presence of the state university.
Marketplace, downtown Burlington
9. Woodstock and Quechee
It’s little wonder that Woodstock is such a popular destination for weddings. With its broad town green, meticulously restored Federal and Victorian houses, covered bridge in the middle of town, and five churches boasting Paul Revere bells, it is the very picture of old-time Vermont. Even the Billings Farm serves as a museum of Vermont rural life. Head east on Route 4 to see the vertigo-inspiring 165-ft (50-m) deep gorge carved by the Ottauquechee River.
Traditional houses, Woodstock
10. St. Johnsbury
Athenaeum Gallery • 1171 Main St • 802 748 8291
• open 10am–5:30pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 2–7pm Tue & Thu, 10am–3pm Sat •
www.stjathenaeum.org
“St. J,” as Vermonters call it, is both the hub of the state’s Northeast Kingdom and the gateway between Vermont’s Green Mountains and New Hampshire’s White Mountains. When Thaddeus Fairbanks invented the platform scale in 1830, the town became his manufacturing center. The Fairbanks clan left its stamp on St. Johnsbury, donating both the Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium , and the Athenaeum, a library and gallery with magnificent landscape paintings.
ETHAN ALLEN
Vermont folk hero Ethan Allen (1738–89) led a militia called the Green Mountain Boys. He is hailed for rebuffing colonial governors and British troops alike in a quest for Vermont’s independence. His capture of Fort Ticonderoga from British forces in 1775 played a key strategic role early in the American Revolution.
A DAY IN ROBERT FROST COUNTRY
Morning
Robert Frost (1874–1963), the seminal poet of the New England countryside, spent 39 summers in the Green Mountain National Forest . This easy-to-moderate day of hiking captures the poet and the landscape he loved. Start with pancakes and maple syrup at the Rochester Café (Rte 100, Rochester; 802 767 4302), at the same soda fountain where Frost used to eat, and have the café pack you a lunch. Drive west on Rte 125 to the Robert Frost Interpretive Trail , where you can read some of Frost’s pithy verse and learn to identify native plants. Just east of the almost adjacent Robert Frost Wayside picnic area, a 5-minute walk on an unmarked dirt road will bring you to Frost’s cabin at the Homer Noble Farm , maintained as he left it.
Afternoon
When the muse evaded Frost, he sought solace in the woods. For a hike, drive east on Rte 125 a short distance and turn left onto Steam Mill Road . A bit further on, park at the Skylight Pond trailhead. The path ascends the flank of Battell Mountain, crisscrossing the hillside through a forest of white birch, red oak, and hemlocks. Overgrown and tumbledown stone walls proclaim old boundary lines, as forest reclaims farmland. The moderate 45-minute climb ends on a ridge connecting to the legendary Long Trail . Turn left for a short hike to Skyline Lodge , a rustic shelter for hikers.
The Best of the Rest
1. Montshire Museum
1 Montshire Rd, Norwich • 802 649 2200
• Open daily • Adm •
www.montshire.org
This museum has outdoor trails and science exhibits that delight children.
Enthralled child, Montshire Museum
2. Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium
1302 Main St, St. Johnsbury • 802 748 2372
• Open daily • Adm •
www.fairbanksmuseum.org
Vermont flora and fauna mingle with Philippine and Indian birds in this natural history museum.
3. President Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site
3780 Rte 100 A, Plymouth • 802 672 3773
• Open daily late May–mid-Oct • Adm •
www.historicvermont.org
The independent spirit of his home village inspired Coolidge (1872–1933). Today, much remains the same.
4. Robert Hull Fleming Museum
61 Colchester Ave, Burlington • 802 656 2090
• Closed Mon; mid-Dec–mid-Jan; mid-Mar; Jul–Aug • Adm •
www.uvm.edu/~fleming
Artifacts ranging from African masks and pre-Columbian pottery to medieval manuscripts and Andy Warhol prints are displayed here.
5. Bennington Museum & Grandma Moses Gallery
75 Main St, Bennington • 802 447 1571
• Closed Jan; Wed • Adm •
www.benningtonmuseum.org
Stop by and browse this major collection of work by folk artist Grandma Moses (1860–1961).
6. VTSSM
1 S Main St, Stowe • 802 253 9911
• Closed Mon–Tue • Donation •
www.vtssm.com
Vermont Ski and Snowboard Museum charts skiing in the state from the introduction of powered lifts in the 1930s to the present day.
7. Vermont Institute of Natural Science
6565 Woodstock Rd, Rte 4, Quechee • 802 359 5000
• Adm •
www.vinsweb.org
Injured eagles, hawks, and other raptors, unable to return to the wild, get a second home here.
8. UVM Morgan Horse Farm
74 Battell Dr, Weybridge • 802 388 2011
• Open daily May–Oct • Adm •
www.uvm.edu/morgan
The graceful Morgan horse, one of the first US breeds, is bred here.
9. Vermont Covered Bridge Museum
Rte 9 at Gypsy Ln, Bennington • 802 442 7158
• Closed Tue • Adm •
www.thebennington.org/covered-bridge
Come here to learn how Vermont’s iconic bridges were constructed.
10. American Museum of Fly Fishing
4104 Main St, Manchester • 802 362 3300
• Closed Sun–Mon • Adm •
www.amff.com
Exhibits such as rods, reels, flies, and books tell the story of this most philosophical of outdoor pursuits.
Tastes of Vermont
1. Cold Hollow Cider Mill
3600 Waterbury-Stowe Rd, Rte 100, Waterbury Center • 802 244 8771
• Open daily •
www.coldhollow.com
Drop by for freshly pressed cider. The store brims with Vermont specialties.
2. Lake Champlain Chocolates
750 Pine St, Burlington • 802 864 1808
Factory tours • Mon–Fri •
www.lakechamplainchocolates.com
Watch cream and butter being blended with fine chocolate to form the decadent bars and truffles sold here.
Chocolates at Lake Champlain
3. Magic Hat Brewery
5 Bartlett Bay Rd, S Burlington • 802 658 2739
• Open daily •
www.magichat.net
Magic Hat’s oddball brews include raspberry stout and honey ale.
4. Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory
Rte 100, Waterbury • 866 BJ TOURS
• Open daily • Adm •
www.benjerry.com
Vermont farms provide the rich milk for the super-premium ice creams and yogurts that are made here.
5. Crowley Cheese Co
14 Crowley Ln, Healdville • 802 259 2340
• Open Mon–Sat •
www.crowleycheese-vermont.com
This is Vermont’s oldest cheese factory (1882), noted for its prize-winning Colby cheese.
6. Shelburne Farms
1611 Harbor Rd, Shelburne • 802 985 8442
• Store open daily; tours May–Oct • Adm for tours •
www.shelburnefarms.org
Milk from Brown Swiss cows is turned into cheddar at this farm overlooking Lake Champlain.
7. Maple Grove Farms Maple Museum and Gift Shop
1052 Portland St, St. Johnsbury • 802 748 5141
• Open Apr–May: Mon–Fri; Jun–Dec: daily • Adm •
www.maplegrove.com
Learn how tree sap becomes a breakfast favorite. Then watch that maple syrup transformed into candies.
8. Lincoln Peak Winery
142 River Rd, New Haven • 802 388 7368
• Open late May–mid-Oct: 11am–5pm daily; mid-Oct–Dec: Wed–Sun; Jan–late May: Sat •
www.lincolnpeakvineyard.com
The tasting room at Lincoln Peak offers some of the best wines made in the inhospitable northerly climate.
9. Vermont Country Store
657 Main St, Weston • 802 824 3184
• Open daily •
www.vermontcountrystore.com
This emporium still has a pickle barrel and huge wedges of cheddar. Try its own Vermont Common Crackers.
10. Cabot Creamery
2878 Main St, Cabot • 800 837 4261
• Closed Sun Nov–May • Adm (for tour) •
www.cabotcheese.com
Vermont’s largest cheese producer stocks a wide range of dairy products.
Dairy items for sale, Cabot Creamery
Bars and Cafés
1. Higher Ground
1214 Williston Rd, Burlington • 802 253 4364
• $
The state’s premier music venue hosts an array of acts, ranging from chart-toppers to obscure indie bands. Three full-service bars keep the crowds fueled.
2. Drink
135 St. Paul St, Burlington
This sophisticated northern Vermont bar offers splashy mojitos, cosmopolitans, and a selection of home-infused vodkas. Traditionalists may bypass the stylish lounge in favor of beer and televised sports at the bar.
3. McGrath’s Irish Pub
Inn at Long Trail, 709 Rte 4, Sherburne Pass, Killington
Darts, Guinness on draft, and live music on weekends await the loyal following at this amiable pub.
4. Perfect Wife Restaurant
2594 Depot St, Manchester Center • $
Judging by the menu, a “perfect wife” can cook a pot of chili or grill a steelhead trout. Live music on weekends brings in the local crowd.
Perfect Wife Restaurant
5. Baba-a-Louis Bakery
92 Rte 11 W, Chester
In addition to French baguettes and organic whole wheat loaves to take home, there’s a lunch buffet that features sandwiches and soups.
6. Prohibition Pig
23 S Main St, Waterbury • $
A friendly local hangout that whips up classic cocktails alongside Vermont’s most acclaimed craft beers. Delicious barbecue fare and a gluten-free menu keep the patrons satisfied.
Prohibition Pig
7. Maglianero
47 Maple St, Burlington • 802 861 3155
• $
Outstanding expresso and a few treats, such as tenderloin flatbread with caramelized onions, are on offer at this coffee shop. A must-stop for tea fans, too.
8. Jasper Murdock’s Alehouse
325 Main St, Norwich
This cozy pub brews its own English-style ales. It attracts large numbers of students from nearby Dartmouth College, as well as local ski buffs.
9. Matterhorn
4969 Mountain Rd, Stowe
The first bar south of Stowe’s Mount Mansfield, the Matterhorn is party central after a day of skiing. Escape the hubbub in the martini bar.
10. Mocha Joe’s Café
82 Main St, Brattleboro
Artists, musicians, and all self-respecting Brattleboro Bohemians get caffeinated at this roaster café known for its winter maple lattes and summer limeade.
Restaurants
1. Inn at Shelburne Farms Restaurant
1611 Harbor Rd, Shelburne • 802 985 8498
• Open mid-May–mid-Oct, B and D daily, Sun brunch • $$
This elegant dining room makes the most of northern Vermont’s short but high-grade harvest, from early lettuces to fall apples.
2. Hen of the Wood
92 Stowe St, Waterbury • 802 244 7300
• Closed L, Sun–Mon • $$
Plates here embody the essence of gastronomic Vermont: local meats, seasonal farm vegetables, foraged foods, and exquisite cheeses.
3. Farmhouse Tap & Grill
160 Bank St, Burlington • 802 859 0888
• Open L & D daily • $$
Gourmet burgers, craft beer, and dinner plates laden with Vermont farm produce make Farmhouse a local favorite.
4. Cafe Provence
111 Center St, Brandon • 802 247 9997
• Closed Mon • $$
The Provençal chef uses Vermont produce to create authentic country French food served in an intimate village bistro.
5. The Mill at Simon Pearce
1760 Quechee Main St, Quechee • 802 295 1470
• Closed Sun L; open Sun brunch • $$
Savor the riverside location, superb food, and fine wine. Pearce, a famed glass artist, has a studio on site.
6. Kitchen Table Bistro
1840 W Main St, Richmond • 802 434 8686
• Closed L, Sun & Mon D • $$
This cozy bistro operated by two graduates of the New England Culinary Institute has a strong northern-French accent. Try the maple-smoked pork and braised kale.
7. NECI on Main
118 Main St, Montpelier • 802 223 3188
• Closed Mon; open Sat & Sun brunch • $
Student chefs at the New England Culinary Institute train here.
Scallops served at NECI on Main
8. Starry Night Café
5371 Rte 7, Ferrisburg • 802 877 6316
• Closed L, Mon & Tue D • $$
Dining here in a covered bridge or a former cider house is as magical as the restaurant name. Hearty American food is mostly raised or grown locally.
9. American Flatbread
137 Maple St, Middlebury • 802 388 3300
• Closed L, Sun–Thu; D, Sun–Mon • $
This wildly popular eatery churns out gourmet pizzas and salads made with organic, Vermont-raised ingredients.
10. The Inn at Weathersfield
1342 Rte 106, Perkinsville • 802 263 9217
• Closed L, Mon–Wed D • $$
Inventive chefs here might pair pork loin and scallops with capers, or pumpkin soup with local blue cheese.