NEW HAMPSHIRE
The aptly nicknamed Granite State is a thick wedge of rock between two great rivers – the Connecticut on the west and the Piscataqua on the east. Its initial settlements in the 1620s were strictly coastal, but within a generation, explorers had ventured deep into its woods for furs and timber. Despite the rugged topography, many of the villages in the White Mountains were well established by the time of the American Revolution. Most residents live along the southern edge of the state, often driving down to Massachusetts for employment. Northern New Hampshire remains almost untracked forest. American scenic tourism began in the White Mountains in the 1820s, and those peaks and the villages on their flanks remain major vacation destinations. New Hampshire also boasts a chain of alpine lakes and a lively seacoast, where vacationers from as far away as Montreal flock to the shore.
1. Keene
At 132 ft (40 m) wide for most of its length, Keene’s attractive Main Street is easily the widest in New England. This shire town has a lively mix of old-time shops and art galleries, as well as the good bars and cafés you’d expect in a college community. At its heart stands the pretty United Church of Christ with its soaring white steeple.
The church in Keene
2. Hanover
Ledyard Canoe Club of DOC • Ledyard Bridge • 603 643 6709
• open May–Oct; call for availability • adm
It’s hardly a bad thing, but Dartmouth College utterly overwhelms the rest of Hanover. The town green and the college green are one and the same, and the shopping district clearly favors the tastes of young scholars and their well-heeled parents. But Dartmouth holds many riches, even for the visitor just passing through. Not least among them are the art treasures of the Hood Museum of Art – closed until 2019 for expansion. Hanover sits on the Connecticut River and is popular with canoeists. Most recreational programs of the Dartmouth Outing Club, including boat rentals, are open to non-students as well.
3. White Mountains
The White Mountains have a special place in American history. When early 19th-century poets, philosophers, and theologians sought inspiration, they made a pilgrimage to these majestic hills to experience the sublime rising peaks and plunging glens (for further details see White Mountains, New Hampshire ).
White Mountains, a hub for hikers
4. Portsmouth
Portsmouth was New Hampshire’s first English community, settled at the mouth of the Piscataqua River in 1623. Plentiful timber and a deep harbor made it a natural for ship-building, and from 1780 to 1870 its merchant traders grew rich. Walk through the handsome squares of the Colonial settlement to see some of New England’s finest town mansions, and to breathe the salt air that has always been Portsmouth’s life-blood. The historic houses and period furnishings of Strawbery Banke relate the city’s four-century domestic history.
Portsmouth, on the Piscataqua River
5. Lakes Region
Vast lakes and small ponds form a stunning watery belt across New Hampshire’s midriff. Seek solitude among the loons on a remote cove, or party all night on Weirs Beach .
Small islands dotting the water in New Hampshire’s Lakes Region
6. Concord
New Hampshire Historical Society • 30 Park St • 603 228 6688
• open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Sun • adm •
www.nhhistory.org
The state capital Concord is a serene little town steeped in history. Its handsome 1819 State House is one of the country’s oldest. The celebrated Concord stagecoaches that helped to open up the American West were manufactured here; Mark Twain memorably described one as being “like a cradle on wheels.” The city’s most famous modern resident was schoolteacher Christa McAuliffe (1948–86), who died aboard the Challenger space shuttle. Her dedication to science education is honored at the McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center .
State House, Concord
7. Lake Sunapee
Sunapee Cruises • 1 Lake Ave, Sunapee • 603 938 6465
• open late May–mid-Oct • adm •
www.mvkearsarge.com
This alpine lake – whose name, meaning “wild goose waters,” is of American-Indian origin – was a Victorian resort where vacationers stepped off the train onto steamboats to be delivered to their grand lakefront hotels. The hotels are gone, but private cottages ring the lake, and the harbors of Sunapee and Newbury are busy spots in the summer, with free outdoor concerts and bustling restaurants. Take a scenic cruise on the lake, or have a dinner cruise on a steamboat.
8. Beaches
New Hampshire’s brief stretch of coastline is more rock than sand, with rugged promontories and rock jetties protecting its fishing harbors. The coast is also punctuated by swaths of coarse brown sand. Jenness State Beach and Wallis Sands State Beach in Rye, and North Beach in Hampton, have the best-maintained facilities and gentlest swimming. Hampton Beach is by far the most popular.
9. Manchester
The largest city in northern New England, Manchester rose and fell with the Amoskeag Mill. From humble beginnings in 1809 on the east bank of the Merrimack River, the town grew into the world’s largest cotton-mill complex by the dawn of the 20th century. The textile era has long since ended here, but the hulking brick mills have been transformed into a complex of restaurants, college classrooms, offices, and apartments. The city’s comprehensive Currier Museum of Art is the state’s premier art museum.
10. Yankee Country
Yankee Publishing, which produces both Yankee Magazine and the Old Farmer’s Almanac , is based in Dublin. The homespun village and its neighboring towns of Peterborough and Jaffrey epitomize the gentle New England countryside. The region was a popular resort area in the late 19th century, and all three villages have long served as staging grounds for people preparing to climb nearby Mount Monadnock , said to be the second most-climbed peak in the world after Japan’s Mount Fuji.
Peterborough, stunning in the fall
LIVE FREE OR DIE
Some visitors might imagine that the state motto proclaimed on license plates refers to New Hampshire’s lack of sales and income taxes, but in fact it originated with a toast that the state’s Revolutionary War hero, General John Stark, gave by letter to the 1809 reunion of veterans of the Battle of Bennington, when poor health prevented him from attending: “Live free or die: death is not the worst of evils.”
A DAY’S DRIVE ON THE KANCAMAGUS HIGHWAY
Morning
Before you begin the 35-mile (56-km) drive from Lincoln to Conway , stop at Half Baked & Fully Brewed (187 Main St, Lincoln) for picnic fixings. After a gentle 11-mile (18-km) rise, you’ll climb through steep switchbacks for 4 miles (6 km) to the Graham Wangan Ground Overlook for jaw-dropping mountain views. As the road twists and turns for another 6 miles (10 km), watch for a right turn into the trailhead to Sabbaday Falls . A short walk through dense, pine-scented woods brings you to the waterfall, which makes a wonderfully dramatic 90-degree dogleg as it tumbles down a mountain. The Rocky Gorge Scenic Area , a further 4 miles (6 km) east, is a geological wonder. Cross a bridge to follow a short trail to Falls Pond , where fishermen cast for trout.
Afternoon
Another 3 miles (5 km) east, spread your food on a picnic table at Lower Falls , overlooking the boulder-strewn Swift River . The green pools below the largest boulders make cool summer swimming holes. In the fall, photographers scramble across the boulders trying to capture the intense red and yellow foliage. From the Falls, it’s only a short drive to the Albany Covered Bridge . The weathered 120-ft (37-m) span is a favorite with photographers and you’ll surely want a shot to remember your journey. From the bridge, it’s about 7 fairly flat miles (11 km) to the end of the “Kanc” in Conway.
The Best of the Rest
1. Children’s Museum of New Hampshire
6 Washington St, Dover • 603 742 2002
• Closed Mon except in summer and school vacations • Adm •
www.childrens-museum.org
A yellow submarine and an interactive sound sculpture are two of the imaginative exhibits here.
2. Mount Kearsarge Indian Museum
18 Highlawn Rd, Warner • 603 456 2600
• Open May–Oct: daily • Adm •
www.indianmuseum.org
Admire intricate craftwork and learn how plants were used for food and medicine at this fascinating museum.
Exhibit, Mount Kearsage Indian Museum
3. Mount Sunapee State Park
86 Beach Access Rd, Newbury • 603 763 5561
(park) • 603 763 3500
(ski resort) • Open late May–mid-Sep (beach); late Nov–mid-Apr (ski resort) • Adm •
www.nhstateparks.org
This state park has a pristine lake for swimming, fishing, and boating, as well as 65 ski trails in winter.
4. Enfield Shaker Museum
447 Rte 4A, Enfield • 603 632 4346
• Open daily • Adm •
www.shakermuseum.org
Like the furniture and tools displayed inside, the Great Stone Dwelling has an austere grace.
Enfield Shaker Museum
5. Odiorne Point State Park
Rte 1A, Rye • 603 436 7406
• Open year-round daily • Adm •
www.nhstateparks.org
Tidal pools, pebble beaches, and marshlands surround the site of the state’s first English settlement.
6. Wright Museum
77 Center St, Wolfeboro • 603 569 1212
• Open May–Oct • Adm •
www.wrightmuseum.org
This museum highlights the World War II efforts of US services and their home-front sacrifices.
7. Wellington State Park
614 W Shore Rd, Bristol • 603 744 2197
• Open mid-May–mid-Oct: Sat–Sun (mid-Jun–Aug: daily) • Adm •
www.nhstateparks.org
The swimming beach on Newfound Lake is a summer favorite. Hike the nature trails in the fall for the foliage.
8. Crawford Notch State Park
1464 Rte 302, Hart’s Location • 603 374 2272
• Open daily • Adm •
www.nhstateparks.org
This vast wilderness is a hiker’s paradise. Climb 2,804-ft (855-m) Mount Willard for great views.
9. Budweiser Brewery Experience
221 Daniel Webster Hwy, Merrimack • 603 595 1202
• Closed Jan–May: Tue–Wed •
www.budweisertours.com
This informative brewery tour concludes with a tasting for over 21s.
10. Rhododendron State Park
424 Rockwood Pond Rd, Fitzwilliam • 603 532 8862
• Open year-round •
www.nhstateparks.org
Immerse yourself in the color and aroma of the towering rhododendrons that bloom here in June and July.
Winter Activities
1. Manchester Monarchs
555 Elm St, Manchester • 603 626 7825
• Open Oct–Apr • Adm •
www.manchestermonarchs.com
A family-friendly atmosphere underscores the games of this American Hockey League affiliate of the Los Angeles Kings.
2. Outdoor Skating
Schouler Park, Main St, North Conway • Open Dec–Mar
Low temperatures guarantee a long season of outdoor skating at Schouler Park rink in this picturesque village.
3. Nordic Skiing
Waterville Valley Resort, 1 Ski Area Rd, Waterville Valley • 603 236 4666
• Open Dec–Mar • Adm •
www.waterville.com
Glide along scenic trails at the edge of the White Mountain National Forest.
4. SnowCoach
Great Glen Trails, 1 Mt Washington Auto Rd, Gorham • 603 466 2333
• Open Dec–Mar: daily • Adm •
www.mtwashingtonautoroad.com
This special vehicle carries passengers above the treeline on Mt Washington Auto Road for winter vistas.
5. Snow Tubing
Great Glen Trails, 1 Mt Washington Auto Rd, Gorham • 603 466 2333
• Open Dec–Mar: daily • Adm •
www.greatglentrails.com
For old-fashioned fun, climb a snow-covered hill and then whiz back down on a cushy, oversized inner tube.
6. Horse-drawn Sleigh Rides
Farm by the River, 2555 West Side Rd, North Conway • 603 356 6640
• Open Dec–Feb: daily • Adm •
www.farmbytheriver.com
Large sleighs depart from the stables several times daily. For romance, go for the intimate Victorian option.
7. Dog Sledding
Mount Washington Resort, Rte 302, Bretton Woods • 603 278 1000
• Open Dec–Apr: Thu–Sun • Adm •
www.mountwashingtonresort.com
Alaskan huskies set off into the forested hills of Bretton Woods on trips of 20 minutes to an hour, led by experienced guides.
8. Snowmobiling
SledVentures, 514 US Rte 3, Lincoln • 603 238 2571
• Open Nov–Mar • Adm •
www.nhsledventures.com
Marvel at the hushed beauty of New Hampshire’s snow-clad mountains in winter on a guided snowmobile tour.
Snowmobiling in the mountains
9. Alpine Skiing
Thanks to the White Mountains, New Hampshire has a multitude of top-class alpine ski runs and all are easily reached via Rte 16 or 1-91.
10. New England Ski Museum
Exit 34B I-93/Franconia Notch Parkway, Franconia • 603 823 7177
• Open late May–Mar: daily •
www.skimuseum.org
The first aerial ski tramway in the US opened on Cannon Mountain in 1938. This is therefore a fitting location for this ski museum that traces the development of the sport from its roots to more modern times.
Pubs and Nightlife
1. Elm City Brewing
Colony Mill Marketplace, 222 West St, Keene
The four-beer sampler offers a taste of the ales, porters, and stouts brewed in this 19th-century former woolen mill. Cozy booths make it ideal for conversation.
2. Harlow’s Pub
3 School St, Peterborough
Visit this relaxed venue on Monday nights for a bluegrass jam; or try weekends, when it might be rock and blues, reggae, or even gypsy jazz.
3. Strange Brew Tavern
88 Market St, Manchester
This friendly, bustling tavern serves a wide range of local brews along with an extensive menu of familiar pub grub. Local bands perform most nights.
4. The Press Room
77 Daniel St, Portsmouth
Still going strong after three decades, this pub features live jazz from Sunday to Tuesday. The rest of the week might bring Celtic music and sea shanties, blues, soul, folk, or even poetry.
5. Flying Goose Brew Pub
40 Andover Rd, New London
With a schedule of live music, “the Goose” lures regulars and travelers alike for hearty traditional food, malty ales made on the premises, and lively conversation.
6. The Shaskeen
909 Elm St, Manchester
This atmospheric pub was founded by two Irish musicians who put equal effort both into the nightly schedule of traditional Irish music and the classic Irish fare.
7. Patrick’s Pub & Eatery
18 Weirs Rd, Gilford
Dueling pianos, open mic nights, and Saturday sessions of rotating musical styles create a lively atmosphere at Patrick’s. Pints of Guinness complement the Irish-themed menu.
8. Barley House
132 N Main St, Concord
With a dozen fine imported and locally brewed beers on tap and a wood-paneled pub room, the Barley House feels more like a private club than a public bar.
9. Woodstock Inn Station & Brewery
135 Main St, North Woodstock
English malts and international hops yield a range of outstanding ales geared for outdoors enthusiasts.
Roaring fire at the Woodstock Inn
10. Moat Mountain Smoke House & Brewing Co
3378 White Mountain Hwy, Rte 16, North Conway
This ski-country restaurant takes barbecue seriously. The brisket is Texas dry rub, the pork comes Carolina-style (vinegar doused), and ribs come St. Louis-style. Match them all with the caramel brown ale.
Restaurants
1. Ristorante Massimo
59 Penhallow St, Portsmouth • 603 436 4000
• Closed L, Sun • $$
Sophisticated, largely northern Italian dishes make great use of New England seafood, especially lobster from local waters. The romantic dining room is set in an authentic Federal-era custom house.
2. Black Trumpet Bistro
29 Ceres St, Portsmouth • 603 431 0887
• Closed L • $$
The chef-owner transforms local seafood and produce into lusty American bistro dishes.
3. The Restaurant at Burdick’s
47 Main St, Walpole • 603 756 9058
• Closed Mon, D Sun • $$$
Casual country French dining at this bistro complements the artisanal chocolates sold in the adjoining room.
4. Cotton
75 Arms St, Manchester • 603 622 5488
• Closed Sat–Sun L • $
Start with New Hampshire’s best martini, then order from the menu of updated comfort food – meatloaf and mash, steak salad, buttermilk-fried chicken – in this seriously hip spot.
5. Luca’s Mediterranean Café
10 Central Sq, Keene • 603 358 3335
• Closed Apr–Dec: Sat–Sun L; Jan–Mar: Sun • $
Northern Italian cuisine reigns at this casual but classy trattoria, although specials may be from North Africa and the eastern Mediterranean.
6. Hart’s Turkey Farm Restaurant
233 Daniel Webster Hwy, Rtes 3 & 104, Meredith • 603 279 6212
• $
It’s Thanksgiving every day at this family restaurant specializing in roast turkey dinners with all the fixings. You can also get your gobbler as a fricassee or with pasta.
7. Pine
2 S Main St, Hanover • 603 646 8000
• $$
At the venerable inn that serves as the center of Dartmouth College’s social scene, Pine serves farm-to-table fare with local ingredients.
Traditional inn atmosphere, Pine
8. Three Chimneys Inn
17 Newmarket Rd, Durham • 603 868 7800
• Closed Sun–Mon L • $$
French country cooking is given a strong American accent here.
9. Colby Hill Inn
3 The Oaks, Henniker • 603 428 3281
• Closed L; Sun brunch • $$
Located in a romantic country setting, Colby Hill offers stately dining on classic New England dishes.
10. Ariana’s Restaurant
1322 NH-10, Orford • 603 353 4405
• Closed Sun, Tue–Wed • $
Outstanding farm-to-fork restaurant on a farm down the road from an artisanal cheesemaker. American fare.