In the summertime, when fresh herbs are plentiful, we freeze some to use in our winter stews. We make large batches of pesto, eat some right away, and freeze the rest. And then, some herb vinegar or herb butter might be in order.
For a complete guide to growing, harvesting, and using culinary herbs, we recommend The Moosewood Restaurant Kitchen Garden, by David Hirsch.
BASIL, CILANTRO, dill, mint, and tarragon freeze well and have a better flavor when frozen than when dried.
Rinse or soak the herbs in cool water to remove any grit. Drain, remove large stems, and chop. Pack in freezer containers or plastic bags; small amounts of frozen herb can be removed and used as desired. Or freeze the herbs in ice cube trays, a tablespoon of herbs covered with water in each space; when they’re frozen, store the cubes in a plastic bag for convenient use later. Thawing is not necessary before adding to cooking foods.
USE A MILD OIL that won’t compete with the seasoning: corn, canola, light olive, soy, or safflower. For each cup of oil, use 1/2 cup of chopped fresh herb; or to make a spice oil, use 1/4 cup of garam masala (see page 334) or curry powder (see page 334), or 1/8 cup each of ground cumin seed and ground coriander seed. Let stand at room temperature (a warm kitchen is fine) for 4 to 5 days to infuse the oil with the herb’s essence. The herbs or spices will settle to the bottom. Carefully ladle or decant the clear oil into sterilized jars; discard the spent residue. Tightly cap, and store refrigerated for up to 6 months.
USE FRESH HERBS that are clean, dry, and stripped of heavy stems. Appropriate herbs include basil, chervil, chives, cilantro, dill, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, tarragon, and thyme. Cider vinegar and white wine vinegar are especially good for making herb vinegars, although any vinegar can be used.
Fill a clean glass jar with the herbs, pour in vinegar to cover, and cap the jar. Place the jar in a sunny spot outdoors or on your brightest windowsill for 4 to 6 weeks. Pour the steeped vinegar through a paper coffee filter into a nonreactive pot (stainless steel, enamel, or heatproof ceramic or glass) and discard the herbs. Gently heat the vinegar until it just begins to simmer. Do not boil. Pour the hot vinegar into sterilized jars and cap to seal. Herb vinegars stored in a cool, dark place will keep for about a year.
PESTO WILL KEEP refrigerated for a week. Freeze pesto in ice cube trays, store the pesto cubes in plastic bags, and then pop a pesto cube into savory dishes for an immediate flavor boost. When preparing pesto specifically for freezing, omit the cheese, and add it to the thawed pesto before serving. If you have frozen leftover pesto with the cheese, whirl it briefly in a blender to improve its texture.
To make pesto, whirl all of the ingredients, except the oil, in a food processor or blender. When everything is well chopped, add the oil in a thin stream to form a smooth paste. If you are using a blender, it may be necessary to prechop the herbs and nuts by hand.
3 cups loosely packed fresh basil leaves
1/3 cup pine nuts or chopped almonds
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup olive oil
salt and ground black pepper to taste
YIELDS
2 cups
1 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves
1/4 cup coarsely chopped scallions
1/3 cup pine nuts or chopped almonds
1/4 cup vegetable oil
salt and ground black pepper to taste
YIELDS
1 cup
1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves
1 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves
1/3 cup whole almonds
1 small fresh chile, or 1/4–1/2 teaspoon cayenne
2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime or lemon juice
1/4 cup vegetable oil
salt and ground black pepper to taste
YIELDS
1 cup
1 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves
1/4 cup loosely packed fresh tarragon leaves
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
1/4 cup coarsely chopped chives
1/3 cup pine nuts
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
11/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup vegetable oil
salt and ground black pepper to taste
YIELDS
1 cup
USE HERB BUTTERS as a spread on bread, as a topping for steamed vegetables or broiled fish, for sautéing, and for enriching grains or pasta.
Cream together all of the ingredients. Herb butters can be frozen for up to 6 months.
1/4 pound softened butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons chopped scallions (green and white parts)
1 teaspoon prepared horseradish
1/4 pound softened butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh spearmint
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1/4 pound softened butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1/4 pound softened butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 pound softened butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley