ALLSPICE. We find the clove-cinnamon-ginger flavor of allspice an asset to desserts, mulled cider, and savory bean dishes. Whole allspice berries should be freshly ground for the best aroma.
ANNATTO (achiote seed). The small red annatto seed imparts a vibrant yellow-orange color and delicate flavor to dishes of Latin America. We use annatto to create a brilliant cooking oil for coloring sauces and rice: In a very small pot or skillet (a stainless steel measuring cup works well), swirl 1 teaspoon of annato seeds in 1 tablespoon of oil on medium-low heat, watching to prevent scorching, until the oil becomes bright reddish orange; strain the oil and discard the seeds. Annatto is available in stores specializing in Latin American foods.
ARTICHOKE HEARTS. Cooked artichoke hearts can be purchased canned or frozen. At Moosewood we use canned artichoke hearts packed in brine. These plain artichoke hearts have more possible uses in recipes than the marinated kind packed in jars, and they’re also less expensive. Available in well-stocked supermarkets.
BASIL. The spicy perfume of fresh basil enlivens foods as ethnically diverse as Pesto Genovese and Thai stir-fries. Dried basil lacks the full bouquet of the fresh herb but can be used in recipes in this book that do not specify fresh basil. Fresh sprigs of basil, loosely wrapped in plastic, can be kept refrigerated for several days.
BAY LEAF. Chowders, stews, sauces, stocks, and marinades are highlighted by the refreshing scent of bay leaves. Look for dried leaves that are green or gray-green but not brown and brittle. This strongly flavored herb should be used in moderation; 2 large bay leaves will season a whole pot of soup.
BEANS. Beans are an excellent source of protein, complex carbohydrates, vitamins, fiber, and other nutrients, as well as being an essential traditional element of meatless cuisines. Cooks with foresight (and time) can prepare dried beans ahead of time for quick addition to later meals (see pages 354–55), but canned and frozen beans are reasonable alternatives. We often use frozen lima beans and black-eyed peas. We look for canned beans with no additives beyond salt. Some brands we’ve used include THE ALLEN’S, AMERICAN PRAIRIE, EDEN, GOYA, PROGRESSO, and SAHADI.
Beano is a product for people who have trouble digesting beans. It’s an enzyme that helps the body digest complex sugars in beans without breaking down the useful fiber. A few drops of the liquid are applied to each cooked serving. We haven’t conducted any controlled studies of this product, but if you’ve had trouble in the past, this is a simple remedy worth trying. It is available in natural food stores and many supermarkets.
BLACK PEPPER. Ground black pepper gives a zest and warmth to so many savory dishes that it’s earned a special place at the table, away from its colleagues on the spice rack. Freshly ground peppercorns are far superior to preground pepper; a pepper mill or grinder is a good investment to replace the traditional shakers.
BOUILLON POWDERS AND CUBES. Homemade vegetable stock (see page 359) is richer and more flavorful than broth made with bouillon powder or cubes; however, bouillon can be prepared in an instant. We have found that the following brands are a useful substitution for homemade stock: MORGA (salted or salt-free bouillon cube or vegetable broth powder), GAYELORD HAUSER (salt-free vegetable broth powder), FRONTIER HERBS AND SPICES (vegetable or vegetarian “chicken” or “beef” flavors, salted or salt-free broth powders). All are available at natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets.
BUCKWHEAT. A staple of Eastern Europe, buckwheat groats, also called kasha, are a distinctively flavored, substantial, high-protein grain. This quick-cooking grain can be eaten as a side dish or breakfast cereal. For cooking directions, see page 356. Buckwheat is available in natural food stores or in the Jewish specialty foods section in the supermarket.
BUCKWHEAT NOODLES. Called soba in Japan, these are flat and thin, resembling linguini, and have a distinctive nutty flavor and heartiness. We use them in brothy soups and noodle salads.
BULGHUR. A quick-cooking form of whole wheat, bulghur has a nutty flavor and chewy, but light, texture. Bulghur is made of wheat berries that have been precooked, dried, and cracked. See page 356 for cooking directions. We use bulghur for tabouli and other grain salads and for stuffings for vegetables. Bulghur is available in natural food stores and in well-stocked supermarkets.
CAPERS. The pickled flower buds of a Mediterranean shrub, capers are a sharp, distinctively flavored addition to sauces, stews, fish dishes, and salads. Capers are packed in brine, so it is best to rinse and drain them before using. Opened jars should be kept refrigerated.
CARDAMOM. Sold as pods or seeds, this intensely aromatic spice is used in Indian, Northern European, and Middle Eastern cuisines. Cardamom is an expensive spice, but its strong flavor goes a long way: just 1/2 teaspoon for a whole loaf of Finnish sweet bread. Grind the seeds just before using.
CATSUP. While many people assume catsup to be as American as apple pie, the name actually comes from the Indonesian kechap. The Western version, a sweet-sour tomato-based sauce, differs substantially from the soy-based Southeast Asian sauces. We use catsup in Russian dressing, sweet-and-sour sauces, and of course on tofu burgers and tofu “meat” loaves. We choose brands that have no additives or preservatives and are low in sugar. Available in natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets.
CAYENNE. Cayenne is finely ground dried hot red peppers. Commercial products vary in heat intensity, so start small, perhaps 1/8 teaspoon of cayenne for 4 servings. We’ve found there’s no reason to limit hot pepper to obviously spicy dishes. You can add a lift to other savory foods with the addition of a pinch of cayenne; the flavors will be enhanced but not overwhelmed. For best results, add cayenne at the start of cooking a dish, sautéing it with other primary seasonings such as garlic or onions. Cayenne added later, without enough cooking, may taste harsh.
CHEESE. Parmesan, Romano, cheddar, mozzarella, feta, and Monterey Jack are cheeses we find very useful. Pasta, pizzas, quesadillas, and omelets are just some of the favorite cheese-enhanced dishes we automatically think of for fast meals.
Firm aged cheeses, like Parmesan and Romano, are long keepers. Buy them as wedges; grated cheeses may be convenient, but they’re not worth the sacrifice in flavor. It doesn’t take long to grate a small amount of these very flavorful cheeses with a hand grater, and it takes even less time if you use a food processor. Less commonly available, but with a sharp, distinctive flavor, is ricotta salata, a dry, salted, aged cheese found in many supermarkets and Italian specialty stores.
Soft cheeses such as brie, chèvre, and fresh mozzarella have a short shelf life once their packing has been opened, and so are best purchased right before use.
Smoked cheese, such as cheddar or mozzarella, provides a vegetarian alternative to the distinctive flavors of smoked meats. Look for genuinely smoked unprocessed cheeses for the best quality.
Many cheeses are available as reduced-fat, or “lite,” cheeses, usually with a third less fat than conventional cheeses. Some low-fat cheeses are just fine, but others may not melt well, or may have textural or flavor problems, so experiment. Soft cheeses such as cottage and ricotta can be purchased in low- or no-fat varieties. Neufchâtel cheese, often labeled “lite” cream cheese, has approximately a third less fat than regular cream cheese and is almost indistinguishable in flavor and texture.
For people avoiding dairy products, soy cheeses may be an acceptable, though somewhat expensive, alternative. SOYA KAAS has two nicely flavored and meltable types of soy cheese: jalapeño pepper and mozzarella. SOYCO brand soy “parmesan cheese” is good.
CHESAPEAKE BAY SEASONING. Popular beyond the shores of the bay, this seasoning is a distinctive mix of spices and herbs used to flavor seafood dishes, chowders, and stews. Two brands to look for are OLD BAY and MCCORMICK.
CHILES.
Fresh chiles. Fresh chile peppers add more than just heat to food; their complex flavor contributes a full-bodied zestiness. It doesn’t take long to mince a fresh hot pepper (see page 349), and 1 small pepper can adequately season a dish to feed 4.
In the last few years, we’ve noticed a marked increase in the variety of fresh chile peppers available in markets here in Ithaca. We’ve seen —in descending order of piquancy—habanero, serrano, Super Chile, cayenne, jalapeño, Mexi-bell, Anaheim, and poblano. Cooks who live in the West or Southwest will undoubtedly have a wider selection. In our experience, peppers of the same variety, picked from different parts of the plant or purchased at different times, can vary in hotness from fiery to mellow. To avoid overseasoning, taste a tiny piece before deciding how much to add during cooking, or use small amounts in the dish and serve a spicy salsa at the table for diners who can take the heat. Eat bland starchy foods, such as rice, bread, or tortillas, to still the fires of a particularly hot dish; liquids will spread the fire throughout the mouth and throat. Fresh chiles will keep in the vegetable drawer of a refrigerator for a few weeks.
Dried whole chiles. Garlands of whole dried chile peppers make decorative, useful kitchen ornaments. Dried chiles can be ground in a spice grinder to the desired consistency—fine or coarse. Use small dried chiles, whole or halved, to season cooking oil: heat them gently in the oil to avoid scorching, and then either remove the chiles for a mild flavor or leave them in to increase piquancy.
CHILI OIL. Asian specialty stores and well-stocked supermarkets are the source of hot pepper oils that are used as a last-minute addition to spice savory foods. Use the concentrated oil sparingly, a few drops at a time. Chili oil will keep indefinitely when stored at room temperature.
CHILI PASTE. Various chili pastes of Asian origin—Chinese, Thai, or Indonesian—are usually composed of chile peppers, oil, salt, and other spices such as garlic or curry. Chili pastes add piquant heat to savory foods. Usually packed in glass jars, they are available in Asian markets or well-stocked supermarkets. Refrigerate after opening.
CHINESE FERMENTED BLACK BEANS. These soy beans fermented with salt and spices contribute a rich, aromatic quality to Chinese-style dishes. Packed in jars or plastic bags, they are available at Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets. Once opened, they should be refrigerated, and will keep almost indefinitely.
CHINESE WHEAT AND EGG NOODLES. Very similar to domestic pasta. Udon noodles, similar in shape to a wide linguini, are a Japanese type we especially like for flavor and texture.
CILANTRO (FRESH CORIANDER). Prized for its fresh, clean fragrance and unique flavor, cilantro has long been popular in the cuisines of Latin America, Africa, Asia, and India, although its widespread use in American kitchens is relatively new. Try adding cilantro to spicy salsas, bean dishes, soups, guacamole, marinades, sauces, and stews. The chopped fresh leaves are best included at the end of cooking time. Dried cilantro is flavorless and should be avoided.
For some people, cilantro is an acquired taste, but once it’s acquired, many people act like new converts. Cilantro can be found in well-stocked supermarkets and in Asian or Hispanic groceries. Cilantro that is loosely wrapped in plastic will keep refrigerated for up to 1 week.
CINNAMON. Familiar, sweet, and evocative, cinnamon is a universally popular spice. We were once told by a real estate agent friend that heating a little cinnamon in the oven or microwave was a helpful device to create a “homey” ambience in a house for sale. No one needs to be told about its use in myriad desserts; however, in Asian and Latin American cooking, cinnamon is used as a fragrant spice for savory soups, sauces, curries, and stews.
CLOVES. Spicy with a rich, concentrated flavor, cloves are a valued addition to curry mixes, desserts, and beverages. Use with care, as a pinch or two of ground cloves may be a sufficient amount to season a dish without overpowering it.
COCONUT MILK. Tropical Asian, Caribbean, and African cuisines all use coconut milk with its unique smooth texture and rich flavor. We use an unsweetened coconut milk without preservatives from EPICUREAN INTERNATIONAL. Other brands may be available in your area. Avoid the heavily sweetened types that are used as beverage mixers. To make coconut milk at home, see page 360. Store leftover coconut milk in a tightly sealed jar in the refrigerator, or freeze it in ice cube trays and transfer it later to a closed container in the freezer.
CORIANDER SEEDS. The dried light brown, round seeds of the coriander plant have a distinctly different, sweeter taste and aroma than cilantro, the fresh herb of the same plant. We use freshly ground coriander in Indian curries, Mexican bean dishes and casseroles, soups, stews, and marinades.
COUSCOUS. A popular quick-cooking grain of North African origin, couscous is basically tiny pearls of pasta made from finely milled semolina wheat. For cooking directions, see page 356. We use couscous for grain salads, in stuffings for vegetables, and as a bed for saucy foods.
CRUSHED RED PEPPER FLAKES. Crushed red pepper is dried red chiles in the form of coarsely ground flakes. It can be added during cooking, but the flakes are also well suited for use as a condiment for prepared foods: soups, sauces, pasta dishes, pizzas, and stews.
CUMIN. We use freshly ground cumin seeds to impart a robust fragrance and flavor to curries, salsas, bean dishes, soups, and marinades. For heightened aroma, roast the whole seeds for a couple of minutes in a dry skillet or a toaster oven before grinding (see page 354).
CURRY PASTE. Prepared from a highly concentrated blend of spices and vegetable oils, curry pastes vary with the country of origin (typically India, Thailand, or Indonesia). All have a familiar multidimensional bouquet, and they range from mild to hot in spiciness. Curry paste added at the start of cooking will infuse the dish with its flavor; however, it can also be added as a quick final seasoning to soups, sauces, rice dishes, mayonnaise, and dressings. Available at Asian and well-stocked markets, an opened jar of curry paste will keep indefinitely in the refrigerator.
CURRY POWDER. There are dozens of mixtures of spices commercially available as curry powder. Enthusiasts of Indian food are more likely to purchase curry powder at an Indian food store or a spice shop, or to make their own mix, than to buy supermarket brands.
DILL. A popular herb in the cuisines of Northern and Eastern Europe and the Middle East. The mellow flavor of dill leaves, sometimes called dill weed, enriches potato dishes, cucumber salads or pickles, yogurt or sour cream dips, dressings, fall and winter stews, rice pilafs, green beans, and fish dishes. Dried dill is an acceptable substitute when the fresh herb is unavailable. Both fresh and dried are best added toward the end of the cooking time. Dill seed, with a caraway-like flavor, is often used in bread, soups, and stews.
DRIED FRUIT. A healthful snack at home and a good fellow traveler for long journeys. They are a handy addition to desserts, compotes, Neufchâtel or cream cheese spreads, and fruit chutneys. Look for untreated, unsulfured fruit at natural food stores or supermarkets. Store in a cool, dry pantry location. To plump and tenderize dried fruit, cover with an equal amount of boiling water and allow it to steep for 10 to 15 minutes, until softened.
FENNEL. The nutty, sweet, anise flavor of fennel seeds nicely complements breads, cookies, Italian biscuits, soups, marinades, and tomato sauces. Whole fennel seeds are effectively used in baked goods and marinades; freshly ground seeds are more often our choice for all other culinary uses. At the restaurant, one of our favorite salad toppings is chick peas marinated in olive oil, vinegar, fennel seeds, and dill.
FISH SAUCE. Made from fermented salted fish, fish sauce is a classic condiment in the cuisines of Southeast Asia and China. Cooking significantly reduces the “fishy” odor, leaving a unique rich taste to season stir-fries, sauces, soups, and dressings. Available in Asian food stores, this salty product requires no refrigeration.
FIVE-SPICE POWDER. A blend of star-anise, fennel, Szechuan peppercorns, cloves, and cumin, five-spice powder is a fragrant, spicy seasoning used in Chinese cooking. Cook with small amounts of this highly flavored spice (1/2 teaspoon will season four servings of a stir-fry).
FRUIT CONSERVES AND SPREADS. We prefer the rich, full flavor of all-fruit sugarless spreads to that of their sugared counterparts. Besides the obvious partnership with breads of all sorts, try them in dessert sauces, cake fillings, pancake toppings, or mixed with low-fat ricotta cheese as a spread or crepe filling. SORREL RIDGE, POLANER’S ALL FRUIT, WOODSTOCK, JUST FRUIT, and KNUDSEN’S brands are available in supermarkets or natural food stores.
GARAM MASALA. A masala is a blend of spices used for seasoning Indian foods. Garam masala, unlike curry powder, is made with spices that are roasted before they are ground. This mellows the mix and allows for its addition to foods near the end of cooking time. Garam masala can be purchased in well-stocked supermarkets or specialty stores.
GARLIC. At Moosewood, garlic may be our most indispensable seasoning. It’s best used in fresh form; dried and powdered garlic lack full fragrance and have an unpleasant aftertaste. An acceptable alternative is prechopped garlic packed in glass jars with no preservatives. POLANER and FLORA are two brands available in well-stocked supermarkets.
Look for fresh heads or bulbs of garlic that are firm and solid, with no brown or soft sections. Heads with large cloves are easier to peel and handle (see page 349) than those with small cloves. Store garlic in a cool, dry place but not in the refrigerator, where it might sprout or mold.
GINGER ROOT. The fresh, clean fragrance and spicy taste of ginger root are essential elements of Asian, African, and Caribbean cooking. Choose roots that are firm and not dry or shriveled. Whole ginger roots can be stored in the refrigerator, wrapped in plastic, for up to 2 weeks. For long-term refrigerated storage, peeled whole pieces of ginger can be covered with sherry in a closed jar. Use the sherry for cooking when the ginger has departed. Whole roots can also be stored in plastic bags in the freezer. Frozen roots are easy to grate; do as much as needed for a given recipe and return the remainder to the freezer. Fresh ginger root is available in produce markets and supermarkets, as well as in Asian food stores. Powdered dried ginger, which is often used to flavor baked goods, has a very different flavor and should not be used as a substitute.
HERBS AND SPICES. “Herb” most frequently refers to a plant’s leafy parts, either fresh or dried. “Spices” are primarily of tropical origin and are usually derived from seeds, fruits, barks, and roots. The fragrance and flavor of herbs and spices contribute depth and dimension to foods.
Dried herbs and spices. Store dried herbs and spices in a cool part of your kitchen, away from direct sunlight or excessive heat, but not so far that they’ll be inconvenient to use. We use an electric spice or coffee grinder to fresh-grind whole spices before cooking; the essential oils are dramatically more fragrant and powerful than in the preground versions. Most of us have found it well worth the expense to have a spices-only coffee grinder, so that our curries don’t taste like coffee and our coffee doesn’t taste like cumin. If your coffee grinder is doing double duty as a spice grinder, unwanted spice residue can be removed by grinding a couple of tablespoons of raw rice and then wiping the interior clean.
Fresh herbs. We prefer fresh herbs for much of our cooking. When substituting fresh herbs for dried in a recipe, the rule of thumb is to triple the amount and add the fresh herbs toward the end of cooking. In the summertime, when fresh herbs abound in our gardens and at the farmers’ market, we freeze them and make pestos, herb butters, and herb vinegars (see Fresh Herbs, page 361) for use later in the year.
HIJIKI. With an assertive ocean flavor and nutty aroma, hijiki seaweed provides crisp texture and generous nutrients to soups, stir-fries, and simple vegetable dishes. Before serving or adding it to other foods, soak hijiki for 6 to 8 minutes in an equal volume of water. Available in Asian markets and natural food stores.
HOISIN SAUCE. Made of soybeans, sugar, vinegar, and spices, hoisin is a sweet Chinese condiment. It is traditionally used in mu shu dishes, where it is drizzled on delicate pancakes that are then filled with stir-fried ingredients and rolled. We sometimes add hoisin to other sauces for Chinese dishes.
HOT SAUCE. See Tabasco, page 342.
MARJORAM. The piquant taste of marjoram is reminiscent of its family member oregano, but with a sweeter flavor. As with most herbs, the fresh leaves have a more complex flavor than the dried, but either can be used in soups, stews, bean dishes, dressings, and sauces, and in marinades for vegetables or fish.
MAYONNAISE. We’ve visited friends with sad refrigerators, almost empty except for a jar of mayonnaise waiting patiently for a cheese sandwich to give its life meaning. This ubiquitous condiment has been overused at deli counters in sodden, gloppy potato, macaroni, and other salads. However, we find it a useful base for quick dressings or spreads. Because of the increase in salmonella-related food-borne illnesses, we decided it was unwise to serve foods containing uncooked eggs at Moosewood, and we began using commercial mayonnaise instead of making our own. We use mayonnaise made with fresh lemon juice and without onion and garlic powder (HELLMANN’S is the widely distributed national brand we use, but there are also good local brands). We jazz it up with fresh herbs, pesto, lemon or lime juice, chopped garlic, scallions, red onion, tomatoes, olives, curry powder and other spices, herbed vinegars, or flavorful oils such as extra-virgin olive oil.
MILLET. Millet is a small yellow highly nutritious grain that is used as a staple in the cuisines of much of Africa. For cooking directions, see page 356. Serve it with a saucy stew or “as is” with butter. Millet is available in natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets. Be sure to get hulled millet, not birdseed! Store this perishable grain in a tightly capped container in the refrigerator.
MINT. Mints can refresh, cool, and enliven. When fresh mint is available, we use it for cooking and as an appealing garnish of vivid green, clean-scented leaves. Besides spearmint and peppermint, look for apple, orange, or pineapple mint. Mint dries well, retaining most of its essential oils. We use mint in tabouli, pilafs, dips, salads, simple vegetable sautés, preserves, and custards.
MIRIN. Also known as “hon-mirin.” A sweet Japanese cooking wine with a distinctive flavor that resembles sweet sherry but is not quite the same. It is a colorless alcohol made from the glutinous short-grain rice called mochigome and has a median alcohol content of about 17 percent and a sugar content of about 26 percent. Mirin is often used in stocks, sauces, and marinades in combination with soy sauce, sesame oil or sesame paste, and ginger. It is traditionally included in teriyaki sauce, ponzu, and gomatare.
MISO. A thick purée used for flavoring many kinds of dishes, miso is a product of the fermentation of soy beans, salt, and various grains. This traditional Japanese food is high in protein and acts as an aid to digestive enzymes. In the U.S., the most commonly available types of miso are white or rice miso, mild and relatively sweet, red or barley miso, savory and versatile, and dark soy miso, thick and more strongly flavored. Miso adds a deep rich flavor and good complementary protein to dressings, soups, spreads, stews, and sauces. Refrigerated, it will keep indefinitely. Natural food stores are a good source of a variety of misos. Brands that we like include ONOZAKI, EDEN, MISO MASTER, and SOUTH RIVER.
MUSTARD. In the last few years, the addition of herbs, spices, wines, and sweeteners have transformed this once mundane condiment. The Dijon type is our most frequently used mustard. White wine, spices, and vinegar give Dijon its distinctive flavor. Dressings, sauces, sandwiches, soups, and stews are enlivened by the savory tang of mustard.
MUSTARD SEEDS.
Yellow mustard seeds. Ground yellow mustard seeds are the pungent basis for the familiar condiment; whole seeds are useful as a pickling spice. Freshly ground mustard seeds add zest to salad dressings, marinades, and sauces.
Black mustard seeds. Less pungent than their yellow relatives, black mustard seeds are used in Indian cooking. To release their nutty flavor, gently heat the whole seeds in oil, or other fats, until they “pop,” then add other ingredients to the seasoned oil. Available in Indian groceries or specialty food stores.
NORI. A dark green or purplish seaweed, sheets of nori are the traditional wrappers for sushi rolls as well as being a highly nutritious seasoning for foods. The briny flavor of nori is enhanced if you toast it just before use by passing a sheet of the seaweed very briefly over a gas flame until it is crisp. Nori, available in Asian markets or natural food stores, is sold dried in thin sheets packed in cellophane, plastic, or cans.
NUT BUTTERS. Besides the ever-popular peanut butter, cashew, almond, and hazelnut butters can be an occasional treat. Natural food stores and supermarkets stock nut butters without sweeteners, added fats, preservatives, or stabilizers. Stir nut butters thoroughly to distribute the oil before storing in the refrigerator.
NUTMEG. We use nutmeg as a classic aromatic spice for spinach dishes, white sauces, desserts, fruit punches, and crepe or French toast batters. This is yet another spice with a notably livelier fragrance when freshly ground rather than preground. It is quickly done by grating a whole nutmeg on the finest blade of a hand grater or with a specially designed nutmeg grater.
OLIVE OIL.
Pure olive oil is a fragrant cooking oil indispensable to the cuisines of the Mediterranean world. Olive oil is appealing to people trying to reduce cholesterol levels because it is a monosaturated fat. Store olive oil in a cool dark place.
Extra-virgin olive oil is made from the first pressing of the highest-quality olives. It has a low smoking point, so it isn’t suitable for cooking; it is loved for its richly aromatic, fruity flavor and is used in dressings and marinades, to flavor cooked foods or salads, or merely to drizzle over a hunk of crusty bread. We make the simplest of dips for raw vegetables by adding a dash of salt and pepper to a flavorful extra-virgin olive oil.
OLIVES. The briny tang of olives enlivens salads, soups, salsa, spreads, sauces, and fillings. The three kinds that we use the most are:
Calamata. Rich and meaty, the Calamatas we use are unpitted Greek imports. We like their flavor so much, we’ll take the time to slice the pit away to use the flesh for cooking.
California ripe olives. Canned varieties of black olives that are inexpensive and readily available, and although lacking in the richness of flavor of their Mediterranean kin, have an appeal of their own.
Spanish olives. The familiar green olives, with or without the pimiento stuffing, are a useful savory addition to rice dishes, cheese spreads, and bean dishes.
Look in delis and specialty stores for other kinds of olives to serve as appetizers or with salads. Black Gaeta, green Sicilian, and Ligurian are some Mediterranean types we enjoy.
OREGANO. The pronounced flavor of oregano is easily recognized as the dominant herb of many commercial pizza sauces. There’s no reason to limit its use to tomato sauce, however; oregano combines well with other Mediterranean foods—eggplant, zucchini, garlic, olive oil, parsley, and fresh tomatoes.
PAPRIKA. We recommend sweet Hungarian paprika. Hot paprika can be used as a cayenne substitute. Paprikas should be cooked over gentle heat to avoid scorching.
PARSLEY. Fresh parsley is the most reliably available herb in American markets. It blends nicely with the flavors of other herbs as well as adding its own fresh, clean taste. Parsley is a time-honored breath sweetener. Immerse the stems in a container of water or loosely wrap bunches in plastic, and store in the refrigerator. Dried parsley is essentially worthless, lacking in both flavor and color. We never use it.
PASTA. Moosewood cooks eat a lot of pasta, both in the restaurant and at home. We recommend Italian imported pasta for higher quality in taste and texture. In Italy, where pasta is a national obsession, government standards limit ingredients, additives, and production processes to the extent that a finer product is more likely than with our domestic brands.
Recipes in this book call for an assortment of shapes and sizes of Italian pasta that engage the palate as well as the eye. The following guidelines may help in choosing pasta shapes:
• Long strands work well with tomato sauces and pestos: spaghetti, fusilli, linguini.
• Hollowed shapes are well paired with chunky vegetable sauces: shells, penne, ziti, orecchietti (little ears).
• Flat pastas are good with creamy, smooth, or cheese sauces: fettuccine, tagliatelle.
• Very short or small pastas are used in soups and bean dishes or as side dishes: pastina, tubetini, orzo (rice-shaped pasta, also called rosa marina).
Fresh pasta. Supermarkets now carry vacuum-packed fresh pasta, formerly available only if made at home or purchased in a specialty store. Fresh pasta has a softer texture and richer flavor than dried. Care should be taken to avoid overcooking, since it requires less cooking time.
Flavored pastas. Pastas flavored with tomatoes, herbs such as basil or cayenne, spinach, black beans, beets, and other diverse foods are available both fresh and dried. The flavors are usually subtle, but interesting visual effects can be achieved with variously colored pastas and sauces.
PEANUT OIL. Peanut oil is a pleasantly flavored oil that is a staple of African cuisines as well as Chinese and other Asian cuisines. It is especially good for deep-frying because it has a high smoking point.
PIMIENTOS. see Roasted red peppers.
PINE NUTS. Pine nuts, also called pignoli, are the edible seeds of certain pine trees. Pine nuts are expensive. Always store them in an airtight container or plastic bag in the refrigerator.
POLENTA. A versatile northern Italian dish, polenta is a simple cornmeal preparation. See page 357 for cooking directions. Coarsely ground cornmeal makes polenta with a substantial texture, but finely ground cornmeal cooks faster. Polenta can be topped with stew or with steamed or sautéed vegetables to make a hearty meal. Leftover polenta can be baked, broiled, grilled, or pan-fried and served plain or topped with vegetables, sauce, or cheese.
PORCINI MUSHROOMS. Imported dried Italian porcini mushrooms have a rich, woodsy flavor. Though they are expensive, a little goes a long way. Soak porcini in warm water for 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and use the mushrooms as needed, reserving the strained soaking liquid for use as a stock. Porcini are available in supermarkets, usually located with other Italian specialties.
PUFF PASTRY. Commercially prepared puff pastry makes an elegant presentation with little effort. It usually comes in 16-ounce packages containing two square or rectangular sheets. The frozen dough can be thawed in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight, or at room temperature in about 20 minutes. Puff pastry is available in supermarket freezer sections.
QUINOA. Touted as a “supergrain,” quinoa (KEEN-wah) is an ancient Incan grain which contains more protein, vitamins, and minerals than most other vegetable or animal foods. It has a delicious mild, nutty flavor and a slightly crunchy texture. For basic cooking instructions, see page 357. Serve with Tomatican (see page 216) or steamed vegetables with Chimichurri Sauce (see page 108). Quinoa is available in natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets.
RICE.
Arborio rice. An Italian short-grain rice of distinctive flavor and creamy texture. This rice can quickly absorb a large amount of liquid yet still remain firm. It is available in well-stocked supermarkets and in Italian specialty stores.
Brown rice. Our whole grain of choice at Moosewood. It’s a perfect companion for so many of our dishes—the light, mild flavor complements without competing. In our history, brown rice was one of the keystones of vegetarian cooking associated with lifestyle changes of the early 1970s. There were stories of people living on nothing but brown rice, soy sauce, and steamed vegetables, with maybe a few crushed sesame seeds or a little seaweed thrown in on festive occasions. Be that as it may, brown rice does present the quick-cooking chef with the problem of a 45- to 50-minute cooking time. See page 357 for cooking instructions. Prepare more rice than needed for a given meal, then quickly steam the leftovers (see page 353) for subsequent meals. Cooked brown rice will keep up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
ARROWHEAD MILLS makes an instant brown rice that’s ready in 12 minutes, but we think there is some sacrifice in flavor for the savings in time. It’s available in natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets.
Long-grain brown rice is dry and fluffy and is preferred in Chinese, Indian, Southeast Asian, and Middle Eastern cooking. Short-grain brown rice is moister and slightly sticky, with a somewhat sweeter flavor. It is extensively used in North America and Japan.
Basmati rice. Basmati rice has a fragrance reminiscent of popcorn, but with an almost floral quality. Basmati rice is available as a “white” or whole-grain brown.
White rice. Although not as nutritionally valuable nor as fully flavored as whole-grain rice, white rice will cook in a comparatively short time—about 20 minutes (see page 357). Long-grain is best for a side dish, since the grains are lighter and more separate than short or medium grains. Avoid using “instant” or “minute” types, since their flavor and texture are markedly inferior.
RICE NOODLES. Rice noodles are available in different thicknesses, from a thin vermicelli type (also called rice sticks) to a flat 1/4-inch-wide noodle. Besides the usual method of cooking pasta in boiling water until tender (about 3 to 5 minutes), rice noodles can be soaked in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain in a colander and use in soups, stir-fries, and salads.
ROASTED RED PEPPERS AND PIMIENTOS. Sharing sweet flavor and lush, smooth texture, roasted red peppers and pimientos are surprisingly useful pantry staples that easily “dress up” simple foods such as salads, omelets, and stews. The pleasant smoky flavor of roasted peppers results from their being charred before peeling. Both products have better flavor when packed in glass jars than in cans. Look for them with Italian products or canned vegetables in supermarkets. Since the refrigerator shelf life of an opened jar of roasted peppers or pimientos is just a few days, we freeze the following purée to use as a flavor boost for soups and sauces: For 1/2 cup of roasted peppers or pimientos, use 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 garlic clove; blend in a processor or blender until smooth; freeze in ice cube trays and then pack the cubes in freezer bags.
ROSEMARY. Rosemary asserts its presence with the sharp scent of pine woods. Used with restraint, it’s a wonderful herb for crusty breads, soups, marinades, roasted vegetables, fish, and stews. Fresh rosemary is increasingly available in markets. Dried rosemary is more brittle and somewhat woody; add it to dishes in a cheesecloth pouch for easy removal.
SAFFRON. The dried stamens of the saffron crocus provide an intriguing flavor and warm golden color to savory dishes. This expensive spice, always used in small quantities, should be purchased in strand, not powdered, form. It is a classic seasoning for risotto, pilafs, soups, breads, and bouillabaisse and other stews of the Mediterranean region.
SAGE. Sage is an unfairly ignored herb in the cooking repertoire of Americans, perhaps due to an over-association with holiday poultry stuffing. Used discreetly, sage enhances seasoned oils and herb butters, cheese spreads and sauces, grain pilafs, hearty soups, bean dishes, potatoes, and omelets. Use the fresh herb when it’s available; the flavor is milder and sweeter than that of the dried leaves.
SALSA. Mexican-style spicy tomato-based sauces are essential pantry items for quick preparation of dips, bean dishes, burritos, tostadas, and quesadillas, or for use as a table sauce to add spark to any number of foods. Commercial brands, with no additives or preservatives, are available at natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets.
SEITAN. A wheat product that contains the protein-rich gluten without the starch, seitan is a chewy meatlike food. It has been used as the basis of many Chinese vegetarian “mock meat” dishes in meals created in Buddhist monasteries. Mildly flavored, seitan picks up the seasonings of a given dish while adding a hearty, substantial quality. We use seitan in assertively seasoned dishes, spicy sautés, curries, and richly flavored stews. Seitan, also sold as wheat gluten, is available in natural food and Asian markets.
SESAME BUTTER. Made from roasted unhulled sesame seeds, sesame butter has a stronger taste and denser texture than tahini. Use it as you would any nut butter. Store it in the refrigerator. Sesame butter is available in natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets.
SESAME OIL. Thick, amber-colored, and aromatic, dark sesame oil is made from roasted sesame seeds. Dark sesame oil burns easily and loses flavor when overheated, so it is not used for cooking, but rather as a condiment or flavoring for dressings, soups, sauces, and stir-fries. It is available at Asian groceries and well-stocked supermarkets.
SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS. The smoky flavor and chewy texture of shiitake mushrooms offer a nice contrast to more familiar vegetables in soups and stir-fries. To soften the dried mushrooms for cooking, submerge them in hot water for 20 minutes. Drain (reserve the liquid to use as a stock), trim off and discard the stems, and thinly slice the caps. Local markets may occasionally stock fresh shiitake, but the dried mushrooms are always available at Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets.
SOY SAUCE. Essential for Asian cooking, soy sauce also adds flavor and salt to soups, stews, and sauces where its dark coloring will not detract from the appearance of a dish. Soy sauces vary in saltiness; use a conservative amount at first and add more later if you are not familiar with a given brand. American, Japanese, and Chinese products are available at natural food stores, Asian groceries, and supermarkets. Look for naturally brewed soy sauces that do not contain sugar, food coloring, or chemical additives.
Both shoyu and tamari are Japanese-type soy sauces. Shoyu sauces contain soybeans, wheat, water, and salt. Tamari, a by-product of the miso-making process, is saltier and more strongly flavored than shoyu and contains no wheat.
Light soy sauces work well with vegetarian and fish dishes. These should not be confused with “lite” or low-sodium soy sauces, which are reasonable choices for reduced-salt diets. SUPERIOR SOY is an imported light Chinese soy sauce.
SUN-DRIED TOMATOES. Savory dishes are enlivened by the tart-sweet taste of sun-dried tomatoes. Available packed dry or in oil, they’re usually found with other Italian specialties in supermarkets. Dry-packed tomatoes are less expensive than oil-packed, but will need to be soaked in hot water for 15 to 30 minutes, then drained. Oil-packed tomatoes are ready to use. The salty but flavorful oil can be discreetly used to season savory dishes.
TABASCO AND OTHER HOT SAUCES. A splash or two of hot pepper sauce, such as Tabasco, adds a bright spark to many dishes. Look for hot sauces without preservatives, artificial colors, or other additives. Tabasco and related sauces can be kept indefinitely at room temperature.
TAHINI. Rich and creamy, with a nutty flavor, tahini is made from hulled toasted sesame seeds. Tahini enriches savory dishes, dressings, sauces, and desserts in the cuisines of Mediterranean Africa and the Middle East. Store refrigerated. Available in natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets.
TARRAGON. One of the classic fines herbes of French cuisine, tarragon contributes an anise-like bouquet to the flavors of parsley, chives, and chervil. On its own, it makes an exceptional seasoning for vinaigrette dressings, mushroom sauces, fish, marinades, herb butters or seasoned oils, and stews. The dried herb needs to be used more sparingly than the fresh; the flavor has a haylike overtone.
TEMPEH. Tempeh, a cultured soybean product, is a relative newcomer to American cooking but is an age-old part of Indonesia’s cuisine. The culturing process allows for easy digestion of the soybeans. Tempeh’s chewy, hearty texture, high protein content, and nutty flavor encourage its use as a nutritious low-fat ingredient in vegetarian meals. It readily absorbs marinades and sauces and is dense enough to be grilled. Tempeh can be found in natural food stores, either fresh or, more commonly, frozen. Thaw frozen tempeh before using, but slice or cube it while it’s still partially frozen to avoid crumbling.
THYME. The assertive flavor and scent of thyme benefit chowders and onion soups, stuffings, stews, croutons, bean dishes, and hearty casseroles. Thyme’s flavor is strong; small amounts should suffice. Choose the dried leaf, avoid powdered thyme.
TOFU. Also known as bean curd, tofu is an extremely versatile, protein-rich, low-fat food whose history goes back more than 2,000 years to the Western Han Dynasty of China. Tofu has unfairly received a bad reputation as a “health” food completely lacking in appeal. Admittedly, plain, unprepared tofu is pretty boring; however this can be an asset for a product that can, chameleon-like, assume a multitude of roles.
Fresh tofu is available in well-stocked supermarkets, natural food stores, and Asian markets, either fresh-packed in water or vacuum-packed in dated containers. Fresh tofu should be used within 1 week of purchase, with a change of packing water every other day. “Silken” or soft tofu is a creamy product useful for soups, desserts, dressings, dips, beverages, and fillings. We use “firm” tofu for stir-fries, salads, broiling, and baking.
Seasoned tofu is a firm, dense tofu produced by extracting the water under pressure and subsequently cooking with soy sauce and seasonings. TOFU-KAN, processed by Ithaca Soy Foods, is a local product we use and recommend. It’s available throughout the northeastern United States, from Maine to Maryland. Similar products may be regionally available in natural food stores or well-stocked supermarkets. Chinese markets sell five-spice bean curd, a seasoned tofu with a distinctive anise flavor. Variations in spicing and texture occur in the different regions of China, where pressed seasoned tofu is a widespread product. Conveniently used where the texture of softer tofu would be inappropriate, as in a sandwich, pressed tofu is equally versatile for savory dishes.
TOMATO PASTE. Sometimes just a tablespoon or two of tomato paste will add the right touch of acidity, color, and texture to a dish. Tomato paste in tubes has a fresher flavor than canned tomato paste, and the tubes can be kept in the refrigerator for occasional use. If you have difficulty finding the tubes (usually found with the Italian imports), canned tomato paste can be frozen in small 2- to 3-tablespoon packages.
TORTILLAS. If you live in a community where fresh tortillas are available, they should clearly be your first choice. If not, look for refrigerated or frozen wheat and corn tortillas that are free of preservatives. Frozen tortillas need to thaw, in their unopened package, for about 20 minutes at room temperature.
TURMERIC. Turmeric imparts a rich golden color and subtle taste to foods of the Middle East and India. We use it in curry spice mixes, soups, rice, and lentil and bean dishes.
VEGETABLE OIL. We find a bland vegetable oil without preservatives, such as soy or safflower oil, to be a good all-purpose cooking or salad oil.
VINEGARS. The sharp flavor of vinegar adds an important counterpoint to many dishes. Stock a variety of vinegars for a multitude of uses.
Apple cider vinegar. The most versatile vinegar in our kitchen, cider vinegar has a mild, unobtrusive flavor for dressings, marinades, and sauces.
Balsamic. Richly flavored, tart yet sweet, balsamic vinegar is the perfect companion to extra-virgin olive oil for a drizzle on a salad of mixed greens, fresh tomatoes, or steamed vegetables. Balsamic vinegar is, however, high in sulfites.
Distilled white. Especially useful for pickling or in Asian-style dressings and marinades, white vinegar is also fine for most cooking.
Fruit vinegars. Unusually flavored fruit vinegars add fragrance and taste to delicate salads. Buttercrunch or Boston lettuce and fresh tender vegetables are particularly well dressed with fruit vinegars and a light salad oil. Try a splash or two in a fruit salad.
Herbed vinegars. Salads, dressings, and marinades can be easily and richly flavored with herb vinegars (see page 362).
Rice vinegar. A versatile, mildly flavored vinegar whose signature dish is sushi. Use rice vinegar for Asian-style dressings, marinades, and sauces.
Wine vinegar. Red or white wine vinegars spark dressings with a hearty, full flavor. Red wine vinegar is the more assertive of the two and is good paired with Mediterranean herbs such as oregano, basil, rosemary, and thyme. We like to use white wine vinegar in sauces and marinades for cooked vegetable salads.
WASABI. Familiar to devotees of sushi, wasabi is a green Japanese radish with a pungent flavor and a sinus-clearing effect. Wasabi adds a lift to dipping sauces, soups, Asian noodle salads, and nori rolls. Wasabi powder is mixed with water to form a smooth paste, then set aside for a few minutes before using. Premixed wasabi paste and the dried powder are both available in Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets.
WINES AND SPIRITS. Try to use organically grown wines to avoid the additives in many domestic and imported wines. For culinary purposes, we keep a supply of:
Red and white dry wines. Inexpensive table wines are adequate, as are leftover dinner wines.
Sherry. Both dry and the sweeter cream sherry.
Marsala. Richly flavored Italian wine; use sweet for desserts, dry for savory dishes.
Chinese rice wine and mirin. For Asian dishes. Rice wine is fairly dry; mirin is sweet.
Liqueurs. We frequently use amaretto and Grand Marnier in desserts.
WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE. A commercially prepared condiment formulated by Victorian chemists Lea and Perrins, it is named after the Worcester shop where they accidentally discovered that aging their experimental concoction created a tasty sauce. The sauce contains molasses, anchovies or sardines, garlic, sugar, tamarind, soy sauce, vinegar, and spices. Vegetarian adaptations without additives or preservatives are now available—among them, LIFE brand, from Britain.
YOGURT. This cultured milk product is a familiar nutritious snack or light meal food; it is also a convenient base for or addition to dressings, sauces, soups, and desserts. For best quality, look for brands with no added thickeners or stabilizers. We like BROWN COW FARM yogurt, which is made with only yogurt cultures and milk (and natural flavorings, when flavored). Nonfat and low-fat yogurts are readily available in supermarkets. At Moosewood we serve low-fat yogurt and use it in cooking. Nonfat yogurt, although not as full-bodied, will also work in our recipes.