Uruguay

Highlights >>

Introduction >>

Montevideo >>

Western Uruguay >>

The Interior >>

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HIGHLIGHTS

1 Montevideo Eclectic architecture, sweeping beaches and hip nightlife.

2 Colonia del Sacramento Picturesque town with excellent food.

3 Minas Ride with gauchos through Uruguay’s vast interior.

4 Punta del Este Flashy beach resort with surf and celebrities.

5 Cabo Polonio A remote community without electricity or roads.

ROUGH COSTS

Daily budget Basic US$30, occasional treat US$50

Drink Pilsen beer (1 litre) US$3

Food Asado de tira steak US$10

Hostel/budget hotel US$15–40

Travel Montevideo–Colonia del Sacramento (150km) by bus: 2hr 45min, US$11

FACT FILE

Population 3.3 million

Language Spanish

Currency Peso Uruguayo (UR$)

Capital Montevideo (population: 1.3 million)

International phone code 598

Time zone GMT -3hr

Introduction

If, as the saying goes, countries get the government they deserve, then President José Mujica is a great fit for Uruguay – modest, but sure of himself, progressive, but totally laidback; it’s no wonder that this country is often referred to as the Switzerland of South America.

Through misfortune and good times, Uruguayans maintain their traditionally laidback and cheerful attitude, and it’s not hard to see why. From the secluded surfing beaches of the Atlantic coast, to the rolling pastoral land of the interior tended by gauchos, or the picturesque streets of Colonia del Sacramento and the buzzing nightlife of Montevideo, theirs is a gem of a nation set between the South American giants of Brazil and Argentina. “Tranquilo” (peaceful) could be Uruguay’s national motto, and, after witnessing the beauty of the land and the relaxed kindness of its people, you are unlikely to be in any hurry to leave.

CHRONOLOGY

Pre-1600 Uruguay is home to the Charrúa Indians, a hunter-gatherer people hostile to the European invaders.

Early 1600s Spanish settlers introduce cattle to Uruguay and the gaucho lifestyle of cattle-ranching develops.

1680 The Portuguese establish Colonia del Sacramento as the first major colony in Uruguay.

1726 The Spanish retaliate by founding Montevideo in an attempt to cement their power in the region. Their wars with the Portuguese continue for the next century.

1811 José Artigas begins an independence campaign against the Spanish, who finally leave Uruguay in 1815, only for Brazil and Argentina to fight over control of the territory.

1820 Artigas, defeated by the Portuguese, is exiled to Paraguay, where he stays until his death.

1825 Juan Lavalleja leads the legendary Treinta y Tres Orientales (a group of 33 revolutionaries) to a major victory over the Brazilians. Uruguay gains its independence a year later.

1831 Uruguay’s 500 remaining Charrúa are massacred by the government.

1834–51 Uruguay plunged into civil war pitting the Colorados against the Blancos, names that have survived as political parties to this day.

1903–15 President José Batlle y Ordoñez of the Colorado Party makes sweeping social reforms, effectively making Uruguay South America’s first welfare state.

1950–60s Inflation and political corruption leads to the stagnation of Uruguay’s industries, and social unrest ensues.

1973 The Congress is dissolved and the army takes control of the government. Twelve years of military dictatorship ensue.

1984 The military allows free elections to take place. Colorado Dr Julio Sanguinetti becomes president and holds office until 1989 only to return to power from 1995 until 2000.

2000 Personal possession and use of marijuana is legalized.

2001 The economic crisis in Argentina leads to a collapse in the value of the Uruguayan peso; inflation and widespread unemployment ensues.

2009 José Mujica, a former militant leftist taken prisoner and tortured during the military regime, easily wins the presidency.

2012 Uruguay becomes the second Latin American country, after Cuba, to legalize abortion.

WHEN TO VISIT

One of Uruguay’s main draws is its beaches, so it’s best to visit from November to February when it’s warm, although bear in mind that prices in beach towns soar. Winters in Uruguay can be downright frigid, with cold wet air blowing in from the ocean, but you should still get some sunny days.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE

The majority of visitors to Uruguay arrive via ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento as an easy day-trip. Those flying into Uruguay usually arrive at Montevideo’s Aeropuerto de Carrasco; check online for the full list of airlines flying here ( aeropuertodecarrasco.com.uy). Those coming by bus will be dropped at Tres Cruces bus terminal ( trescruces.com.uy) in downtown Montevideo.

VISAS

Citizens of the EU, US, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Canada, among others, do not need a visa to visit Uruguay. Check  www.dnm.minterior.gub.uy/visas.php for a full list of countries.

GETTING AROUND

BY BUS

The most convenient and cheapest means of transport in Uruguay are intercity buses, which operate from the bus terminal (terminal de ómnibus) in most towns. Montevideo’s main terminal Tres Cruces has an excellent website ( trescruces.com.uy) with details of all the companies and timetables operating there.

BY CAR

Uruguay is an easy country to drive around; all the major routes are asphalted, well signposted, and, outside of summer along the coast, there are very few drivers on the roads. Non-paved roads off the numbered routes tend to be in pretty good shape, except after rain when they may become too muddy without a 4WD. Even Montevideo is fairly straightforward to get in and out of, thanks to the coastal road (the ramblas) linking the airport with the centre and old town. In low season you can find rental cars for as little as UR$35 per day (all the major international car rental companies have offices in Uruguay), but petrol costs are equivalent to European prices. Fines for speeding are extortionate (from US$500), so be sure to adhere to the national speed limits of 45km/hr in inner cities and 90km/hr on the main roads between towns. Taxis tend to be safe as long as they’re licensed, but look out for remises (minicabs), which sometimes offer better rates for fixed distances as they are booked in advance – ask at your hostel for reliable companies.

BY BIKE

With a predominantly flat landscape and good-quality roads, Uruguay is a tempting place for cyclists.

  Accommodation is never more than 50km apart along the coast (although in the interior and north facilities are much more sparse) and there are repair shops in many cities. As with elsewhere in South America, however, you must beware of the recklessness of local drivers.

ACCOMMODATION

Uruguay’s coastal towns are full of youth hostels and other towns will offer basic hotels for those on a budget. Off the main tourist routes, however, places to stay can be few and far between and it’s also worth checking if your trip coincides with a public holiday as accommodation can book up fast; tourist information offices are usually happy to help find accommodation. During the summer holidays from December to February it’s necessary to book ahead, and prices soar, so that a dorm bed can be as expensive as sharing a double room in a basic hotel. Note that hotels and hostels often have a set dollar exchange rate, rather than going by the daily rate, which can mean you’ll be slightly better off paying in dollars than pesos.

ESTANCIAS TURÍSTICAS

No visit to the interior of the country would be complete without a stay or at least a daytime visit to an estancia – a working ranch – but although staying overnight can be magical, the experience does not come cheap and there is a huge variation in authenticity; note that estancias turísticas are essentially rural hotels (you can download a comprehensive list at  turismo.gub.uy/informacion-turistica/folletos-para-descargar).

  If you can’t afford to stay overnight, most will arrange (much cheaper) day stays which will include horseriding, farm activities and a meal or two. The following are a couple of suggestions and demonstrate the huge variety you can choose from:

El Galope 50km from Colonia near Colonia Suiza,  elgalope.com.uy. One of the few estancias run with backpackers in mind, owners Miguel and Mónica (who speak English) aim to provide “a holiday from your holiday”, offering R’n’R, Uruguayan style. With horseriding, a sauna and great food all priced separately, you can choose how much or how little you do (meals US$8–12, horseriding US$35). Dorms US$25, doubles US$70

Guardia del Monte Ruta 9, Km261.5,  guardiadelmonte.com. If you can shell out for a night at a traditional estancia, none offers a better location (overlooking Laguna de Castillos) or more rugged elegance than this one. The cosy farmhouse, with fantastic birdwatching and horseriding opportunities, is a taxi ride from Castillos (around UR$300), 10km down a dirt track. English is spoken, and while it is relatively expensive, you’ll get an incomparable taste of rural Uruguay. Closed May–Sept. Full board with all activities per person (less if B&B only, or without activities) US$160

FOOD AND DRINK

Uruguay may not provide the most cosmopolitan of culinary experiences, but if you enjoy beef or most kinds of seafood, you will not go hungry. Uruguayan steakhouses (parrillas) serve steaks that are larger and (as the locals insist) more tender than their Argentine counterparts, with the most popular cuts being the ribs (asado de tira) and tenderloin (bife de chorizo).

  The best dining option for vegetarians tends to be the ubiquitous pizza and pasta restaurants. Desserts (postres) also bear an Italian influence and Uruguay’s confiterías (patisseries) and heladerías (ice-cream parlours) are bursting with delicious treats. Dulce de leche is an irresistible type of caramel that you’ll find in almost any form on dessert menus (and as part of your hostel breakfast to spread on toast). The national snack is the chivito, essentially a whopping burger stacked with fried egg, ham, cheese and bacon, but with a whole steak instead of ground beef.

  Uruguayans don’t really do breakfast – most cafés open around 10am, but almost all hotels and hostels provide a basic breakfast for tourists. Lunch is eaten early, between noon and 1pm, making time for the merienda or te: a sumptuous afternoon tea – usually advertised for two – full of sweet and savoury snacks along with tea or coffee, which is taken around 5pm. Thanks to this tradition, dinner is always late; you’ll normally be eating on your own if you arrive at a restaurant before 9pm.

  Restaurant prices are fairly high for South America: the average price for a lunch set menu is around US$10 in Montevideo, and à la carte prices can be much higher than this.

DRINK

Mate (pronounced mah-tey) is the national drink and involves a whole set of paraphernalia to partake in drinking it. Coffee is the other non-alcoholic drink of choice here, and teas and bottled water are always available, along with fresh juices and smoothies (licuados).

  When not clutching their thermos, Uruguayans enjoy the local beers – especially the ubiquitous Pilsen – which come in one-litre bottles (UR$5) fit for sharing. Uruguayan wine is becoming more prominent, especially the Tannat grape which makes a fine red (tinto). You may also see wine offered as medio y medio which is a blend of sparkling and slightly sweet white wine. Tap water is fine to drink.

THE ART OF DRINKING MATE

You are unlikely to walk down a single street in Uruguay without seeing someone carrying the thermos, pots and metal straw (bombilla) required for mate. In a tradition that goes back to the earliest gauchos, Uruguayans are said to drink even more of the grassy tea than Argentines, and a whole set of social rituals surrounds it. At the close of a meal, the mate is meticulously prepared before being passed round in a circle; the drinker makes a small sucking noise when the pot needs to be refilled, but if this is your position, beware making three such noises: this is considered rude.

CULTURE AND ETIQUETTE

Uruguayans of all ages tend to be warm, relaxed people, fond of lively conversation over a beer or barbecue (asado). As a nation in which the overwhelming majority of people are descended from Italian and Spanish immigrants, Uruguay also maintains some conservative Catholic religious and social practices, especially in the countryside, although the coastal towns are very liberal by South American standards. Uruguayans display a rugged sense of independence that recalls the romantic figure of the gaucho, the cowboys who still roam the grassy plains of the interior. Women and men alike greet each other with one kiss on the cheek. It’s usual to leave a ten percent tip anywhere with table service.

SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

Ever since the first World Cup in 1930 was held in Uruguay and won by the national team, football has been the sport to raise the passions of the normally laidback Uruguayans. In the countryside, horseriding (cabalgata) is more a part of working life than a sport, but there are now many opportunities for tourists to go riding – many hostels and most estancias offer horseriding. Cycling is a popular way of seeing the cities (many hostels provide free or cheap bikes), while fishing is another favoured afternoon pursuit.

  Surfing is increasing in popularity, thanks to fantastic Atlantic waves, and many beach hostels will rent out boards or advertise lessons.

  A widely accepted translation of the Guaraní word uruguay is “river of painted birds”, so it’s no surprise that the country offers fantastic birdwatching opportunities, including flamingos, vultures, hawks, rheas and Magellanic penguins. Tourist information offices have excellent leaflets about twitching in Uruguay.

COMMUNICATIONS

The national post office, Correo Uruguayo ( correo.com.uy), provides an expensive and sometimes unreliable service for international mail; for urgent deliveries, you are much better using a private mailing company like FedEx, at Juncal 1321 in Montevideo’s old town. There are no postboxes on the street; you either need to go to a post office branch, or in Montevideo most museums have buzones (boxes) in their foyers. Antel run the public phone service and you’ll find street phones and cabinas telefonicas (booths inside shops) wherever you go. You can buy phone cards (tarjeta telefónica), available wherever you see the Antel signs, or use change.

  Internet cafés charge UR$20–50 per hour and are present in all towns.

CRIME AND SAFETY

Uruguayans pride themselves on how safe their country is, although statistically crime is on the rise. Thefts from dorms, as well as pickpocketing, do occur, especially in Montevideo and the beach resorts during the summer months. Store your valuables in lockers whenever possible, but you shouldn’t feel worried carrying valuables around with you during the day. The Uruguayan police are courteous, but unlikely to speak English. As well as the emergency phone number, there is a national number for tourist police  08008226.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

 911 is the general emergency number for the police, ambulance and fire services. You may need to dial  42911 from mobiles.

HEALTH

Uruguay’s public healthcare system is in pretty good shape; there are adequate public hospitals in the major cities. Contact your embassy, or ask locals, for advice on the best facilities, and check that they will accept your insurance.

INFORMATION AND MAPS

The national tourist board, run by the Ministerio de Turismo y Deporte (Minitur;  02 1885100,  turismo.gub.uy), is branded as Uruguay Natural, and they run offices in all of Uruguay’s major towns, alongside local tourist offices run by the municipality. Uruguay Natural in Montevideo (see Tourist information) can give you free maps of every department, or you can buy high-quality road maps in petrol stations and bookshops. Uruguayans often write addresses using the abbreviations “esq.”, meaning “at the corner with”, and “c/”, meaning “almost at”, or “nearby”.

MONEY AND BANKS

The unit of currency is the peso uruguayo (UR$). Coins come as 50 centimos and 1, 2, 5, and 10 pesos; notes as 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 pesos. At the time of writing, the exchange rate was £1 = UR$30, €1 = UR$26 and US$1 = UR$19.

  Money changing is completely stress-free as everyone has to buy at the same rate, which varies slightly day to day (you can always find it displayed on the front of the daily newspapers). Breaking large banknotes is less of a problem than in most South American countries, though you are still advised to carry smaller notes in the countryside.

  While major credit cards are widely accepted, and ATMs are common in cities (look out for the Banred ATMs which accept international cards), you should always carry a relatively large supply of cash for places where this is not the case. This applies especially to the beach villages of Eastern Uruguay, such as Punta del Diablo, which don’t have ATMs. ATMs charge around UR$85 per withdrawal.

OPENING HOURS AND HOLIDAYS

Most shops and post offices open on weekdays from 8am until noon, before closing for lunch, reopening around 4pm until 7 or 8pm. Most businesses work at least a half-day on Saturday, but most close on Sundays. Banks are usually open Monday to Friday 1 to 5pm and closed at weekends. The exception to this is many shops in Montevideo, the main coastal tourist centres, and supermarkets in general; the latter are often open as late as 11pm during the week.

  Most museums and historic monuments are open daily, though times vary, and tend to close once a week for maintenance (check with each attraction when theirs is). Public holidays are: January 1, January 6, Good Friday, Easter Monday, April 1, May 1, May 18, June 19, July 18, August 25, October 12, November 2, December 25.

< Back to Uruguay

Montevideo

With a population of around 1.6 million, over fifteen times larger than the second city of Paysandú, Montevideo is Uruguay’s political, economic and transport hub. Founded in 1726 as a fortress against Portuguese encroachment on the northern shore of the Río de la Plata, it had an excellent trading position and, following a turbulent and often violent early history, its growth was rapid. The nineteenth century saw mass immigration from Europe – mostly Italy and Spain – that has resulted in a vibrant mix of architectural styles and a cosmopolitan atmosphere.

  Far more relaxed, but less affluent than its Argentine neighbour across the river, the Uruguayan capital has nevertheless seen an economic improvement in recent years, and wisely invested in its culture, infrastructure and beaches. Montevideo may appear humble at first, but this is a seriously cool, confident city.

CARNAVAL

You will not truly understand the lure of Montevideo unless you experience Carnaval. It’s a three-month celebration of Uruguayan culture with parades, neighbourhood stages known as tablados which host murgas (street bands where singing groups are accompanied by wild drumming – candombe – originating in the African rhythms brought over by slaves), plays, parodists and comedians, all wildly dressed and there to entertain. The spectacular opening and closing parades take place on Avenida 18 de Julio and many of the biggest events are held at the Teatro de Verano. If you know you’ll be in Montevideo during Carnaval, email the tourist office to find out key dates.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Montevideo can sometimes be overshadowed by its snazzier neighbour Buenos Aires, but this, Uruguayans will tell you, is the true home of the tango, with plenty of free classes and milongas – bars playing traditional music – not to mention the best place to experience South America’s longest Carnaval season. There are tons of quirky museums, especially in the charming Ciudad Vieja and east to the Centro, based around Avenida 18 de Julio. Close to here, Calle Tristan Narvaja is filled with independent bookshops and cultural spaces, and holds a huge weekly flea market. You may well stay in Barrio Sur – a traditionally Afro-Uruguayan neighbourhood where candombe drumming was cultivated – or chic and affluent areas Punta Carretas or Pocitos, where you’ll find some of the best food and nightlife.

Ciudad Vieja

If you’ve ever seen a fictionalized version of Havana on TV or film, it’s quite possible it was actually shot in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja, so reminiscent are its streets of those in the Cuban capital. Dotted among the crumbling houses and cobbled streets are endearingly bizarre (and mostly free) museums and galleries, while the highlight is the glorious Mercado del Puerto.

Plaza Independencia and around

A good place to start a walking tour of the Ciudad Vieja is the Puerta de la Ciudadela, dating to 1746, marking the original site of the Citadel of Montevideo on the Plaza Independencia. This square commemorates the emergence of Uruguay as a sovereign nation, and a 17m-high statue and mausoleum (under the statue; daily 9am–5pm) of José Artigas, the man credited with kick-starting Uruguay’s independence campaign against Spain and Portugal, stands aptly in the centre.

  The area around the plaza contains eclectic architectural styles from different periods, from the pretty ugly Torre Ejecutiva where the president performs his duties, to the bulbous tower of the Palacio Salvo, built on the reported site of the first ever performance of tango.

  Tucked behind the plaza’s southwestern corner is the celebrated Teatro Solís, the most prestigious theatre in the country, completed in 1856 and remodelled a few times thereafter. The guided tours (Tues & Thurs 4pm, Wed & Fri–Sun 11am, noon and 4pm; UR$20 in Spanish, or free on Wed; UR$40 in English, arrange in advance) are a fun way to see behind the scenes, but to experience its full splendour, you really have to watch a performance.

  On the south side of the plaza, the old Presidential palace, a Neoclassical building from 1873, now houses the intriguing Museo Casa de Gobierno (Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; free;  02 1515902), which charts the history of the country via its often eccentric presidents.

Plaza de la Constitución and around

Lively pedestrian boulevard Sarandí cuts through the centre of the old city – starting at the Puerta de la Ciudadela – with its street-sellers, artisans, buskers and frequent parades, to the Plaza de la Constitución. Also referred to as the Plaza Matríz, this is Uruguay’s oldest square, dating back to 1726. It’s dominated by the Catedral Metropolitana, also known as the Iglesia Matríz, which, despite dating back to 1790, is underwhelming by Latin American standards.

Museo Torres García and Museo Gurvich

Sarandí is home to two of Uruguay’s finest art galleries. At No. 683 the Museo Torres García (Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–6pm; UR$65;  29162663,  torresgarcia.org.uy) is devoted to the work of Uruguay’s visionary artist, Joaquín Torres García, who championed the creation of a Latin American art form and created the upside-down image of South America that is so prevalent in artesanía in Uruguay. Torres García’s most famous pupil is honoured on the Plaza Matríz next to the cathedral (due to move along Sarandí in 2013) at the excellent Museo Gurvich (Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 11am–3pm; UR$65, free on Tues;  29157826,  museogurvich.org). Lithuanian Jewish immigrant José Gurvich gained fame in his own right with elaborate murals and sculptures, reminiscent of Chagall and Miró.

Around Plaza Zabala

Named for the founder of Montevideo, leafy Plaza Zabala may be passed by if it weren’t for the Palacio Taranco on the north side. An opulent private home that was designed by Charles Louis Girault and Jules Leon Chifflot – the same French team who created the Arc de Triomphe – it now holds the Museo de Artes Decorativas (entry at 25 de Mayo 376; Mon–Fri 12.30–5.30pm; free;  29151101,  cultura.mec.gob.uy). The beautifully displayed collection includes Uruguayan art and an expansive world pottery collection.

  Also worth a look, a few blocks east of Plaza Zabala at Rincón 437, is the Casa de Rivera (Mon–Fri 11am–5pm; free;  29151051,  mhn.gub.uy), which traces Uruguay’s history from prehistoric to modern times through art and artefacts, with a focus on the life of Artigas.

Mercado del Puerto

A foodie’s dream and an architectural gem, the Mercado del Puerto (at the end of pedestrian street Pérez Castellano by the port; open daily for lunch, some restaurants also open for dinner;  mercadodelpuerto.com.uy) is one of Montevideo’s highlights. It’s so popular, in fact, that the restaurants cash in by charging extortionately; however, it’s well worth soaking up the atmosphere, even if you don’t stay to eat (see Treat yourself). The port (puerto) and ferry terminal is on the northern edge, along with both the municipal and national tourist information offices.

  Set into the Mercado del Puerto, with its entrance on the Rambla is the Museo del Carnaval (daily 11am–5pm, closed Wed; UR$65, free on Tues;  29165493,  museodelcarnaval.org), filled with colourful exhibits from the city’s Carnaval celebrations.

Avenida 18 de Julio and around

Extending from the eastern end of Plaza Independencia, Avenida 18 de Julio is central Montevideo’s main shopping thoroughfare and the most important stopping point for the majority of the city’s buses.

  Try to pass Plaza Fabini, a verdant square along the avenida, on a Saturday when you’ll come across people of all ages dancing tango (from 4pm). The Plaza Cagancha (also known as Plaza Libertad) is the next grand square on 18 de Julio; pass through it on your way to the huge Palacio Municipal building a little further east. Ask at the tourist information office at its feet for a ticket to enter, as the mirador on the 22nd floor offers far-reaching views over the city (Mon–Fri at 11am, 2pm & 3pm; free).

Museo de Historia del Arte

Underneath the Palacio Municipal the underrated Museo de Historia del Arte (Ejido 1326; Tues–Sun 1.30–5.30/7.30pm; free;  museomuhar.blogspot.co.uk) is a treasure-trove of international items, beautifully laid out, but you’ll soon notice that much of what is displayed are copies, designed to demonstrate the evolution of art; look out for the items with red dots telling you they’re authentic. It has a particularly strong collection of original pre-Hispanic pieces, including Peruvian and Mesoamerican ceramics, some huge urns from Argentina’s Santa María culture, and Guatemalan textiles.

Tristan Narvaja

A street synonymous with Montevideo’s largest street market (Sun 10am–3pm), Tristan Narvaja is a few blocks east from the Palacio Municipal. Spanning several streets, this is a real flea market selling everything from antiques to pets. On other days, it’s a pleasant neighbourhood to wander around as the streets are lined with eclectic independent shops and cafés.

Espacio de Arte Contemporráneo

A few blocks northeast from the top of Tristan Narvaja, in a partly refurbished prison dating to 1888, you’ll find the Espacio de Arte Contemporráneo (Arenal Grande 1930; Mon–Sat 3–8pm, Sun 11am–5pm; free;  eac.gub.uy), exhibiting beautifully curated, world-class contemporary art. You can see resident artists at work in the old cells.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: MONTEVIDEO

By plane The Aeropuerto de Carrasco ( aeropuertodecarrasco.com.uy) is 25km east of the city centre. Eschew the extortionately priced taxis (30min; UR$1000) and take a bus (1–3 every hour; 24hr with reduced service overnight and at weekends; 25min; UR$120) run by COT ( cot.com.uy) or COPSA ( copsa.com.uy) to Tres Cruces bus station. There is a US$36 tax on international flights (with the exception of US$17 to Buenos Aires), and US$2 on internal flights, usually included in your ticket price, but if not, payable at the airport.

Destinations There are long-distance direct flights to Asunción (daily; 3hr); Lima (daily; 5hr); Miami (daily; 9hr); Madrid (3 weekly); Panama City (daily; 7hr 30min); Rio de Janeiro (daily; 2hr 40min); Santiago, Chile (4 daily; 2hr 40min); São Paulo (4 daily; 2hr 30min). There are several daily flights with Aerolineas Argentinas ( aerolineas.com.ar) and SOL ( sol.com.ar) to Buenos Aires’ Aeroparque and Ezeiza airports (Aeroparque is better for central BA). Buquebus ( flybqb.com) run the only internal flights.

By bus All intercity buses operate out of Tres Cruces bus station ( trescruces.com.uy), 2km northeast of the centre. From here bus CA1 (every 15min; 15min; UR$11) goes to the centre, down Av 18 de Julio to the Plaza Independencia, loops around the Ciudad Vieja, then returns via the same route.

Destinations International: Asunción, Paraguay (2 weekly; 22hr); Buenos Aires, Argentina (3 daily; 8–10hr); Córdoba, Argentina (daily; 15hr), Porto Alegre, Brazil (daily; 12hr); Rosario, Argentina (daily; 8–10hr); Santiago, Chile (weekly; 28hr). National: Cabo Polonio (daily; 5hr); Carmelo (hourly; 3hr 30min); Colonia del Sacramento (hourly; 2hr 45min; 4hr); Minas (hourly; 1hr 40min–2hr 30min); Punta del Diablo (every 2hr; 5hr); Punta del Este (every 30min–every 2hr, 24hr a day; 2hr); Valizas (3 daily; 4–5hr).

Backpacker bus Summer Bus ( 42775781,  summerbus.com) is a beach-hopping backpacker bus which conveniently picks you up from your hostel during summer months (Nov–April; hop-on-hop-off ticket to 12 beaches US$75).

By ferry For information on this, see Crossing the Río de la Plata).

CROSSING THE RÍO DE LA PLATA

Every day, two Buquebus ferries leave from Montevideo (in the morning and late afternoon) to Buenos Aires (2hr 30min; UR$400–1000 one-way). For a more frequent service, both Buquebus and Seacat do a combined bus and ferry ticket to Colonia del Sacramento, where there are ferries every couple of hours which take just one hour (around the same price) to the Argentine capital. Although less convenient and less used, the most picturesque ferry crossing is operated by Cacciola between Tigre, a northern suburb of Buenos Aires, and Carmelo, a one-hour bus ride to the west of Colonia (daily; 2hr 30min; UR$630 one-way;  cacciolaviajes.com). They also do connecting buses to Montevideo. Note that there is a one-hour time difference between the countries, so check which time is being quoted on the websites.

< Back to Arrival and departure

INFORMATION

Online The website  descubrimontevideo.uy is aimed at Spanish-speakers, but it has comprehensive tourist information, including an excellent downloadable guide in English (under Montevideo – Guía Práctica – Guía en Inglés). Look out for the guide Friendly Map Magazine at tourist information offices for LGBT listings. The government site  cultura.montevideo.gub.uy (only in Spanish) is great for cultural listings.

Tourist information The Minitur office on La Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825 at the end of Yacaré (daily 8am–10pm;  021885100,  turismo.gub.uy) has the best range of maps, leaflets and information in English in Uruguay. There are also information kiosks at the airport ( 26040386), and at Tres Cruces bus station ( 21185801). There are municipal tourist offices (daily: April–Nov 9am–5.30pm; Dec–March 11am–5pm;  29168434) on the port side of the Mercado del Puerto, as well as outside the Palacio Municipal ( 19501830).

Tour operators LB Tour (18 de Julio 1044, office 702,  29007159,  lbtour.com.uy) run some of the most popular city tours in Montevideo and Colonia, while Travel Montevideo ( 096614267,  travelmontevideo.com.uy) offer good walking tours around the city for around US$15. Soccer fans won’t do better than Fanaticos Fútbol Tours ( 099862325,  futboltours.com.uy), who live and breathe the beautiful game. Hostel Posada al Sur have responsible tourism in mind with tours that benefit locals.

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TOUR URUGUAY

Uruguay’s vast countryside makes it difficult to tackle without a car, but there are some excellent tour operators who can get you out in the sticks.

TOUR OPERATORS

Biking Uruguay ( 27090636,  bikinguruguay.com) & Bike Tours Uruguay ( 099591519,  biketoursuruguay.com). Both companies run cycling tours in Montevideo and Punta del Este.

Caballos de Luz  099400446,  caballowsdeluz.com. Recommended, good-value horseriding tours in Rocha department.

Lares W. Ferreira Aldunate 1322, office 14, Montevideo  29019120. The most popular nationwide tour operator, specializing in outdoor activities and nature.

The Wine Experience  097348445,  thewine-experience.com; prices depend on number of people in tour. South African Ryan runs raved-about gourmet food and vineyard tours from both Montevideo and Colonia.

GETTING AROUND

Most of the points of interest in the city are within walking distance of Plaza Independencia, while Pocitos and Punta Carretas are easily reached by bus. Note that the roads crossing Av 18 de Julio north–south change names either side of the main road.

By bus There are no route maps available, but there is a bus journey planner at  montevideo.gub.uy/aplicacion/como-ir and a list of inner-city route numbers with destinations at  cutcsa.com.uy/informacion/facrecorridos.php. You can catch buses to most parts of the city from outside the Teatro Solís. Buses heading for the centre are marked “Aduana” or “Ciudad Vieja”. Ask for a “centrico” ticket (UR$11) if you’re only going within the centro, or a “común” (UR$19) otherwise. Buses run regularly from 6am until midnight, when the service starts to thin out dramatically.

By bike Renting a bike is a popular way to see the city, and the lovely Ramblas hugging the estuary beaches makes it easy. Most hostels rent bikes cheaply.

By taxi Journeys within the confines of the city rarely amount to more than UR$200 in hailed street taxis or remises (minicabs). Note that the meter does not give the fare but rather the distance, which corresponds to a pre-fixed rate (taxis should always have the rates displayed for the passenger).

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ACCOMMODATION

Although the Ciudad Vieja is dotted with cheap hotels and hostels, away from the pedestrianized Sarandí it can be unsafe at night. The Barrio Sur is a good bet for character and excellently placed for the old town and nightlife hotspots, while Punta Carretas and Pocitos are best for safety, shopping, beaches and partying. Hostels will usually offer bikes for rent and tango classes, and you can also assume that breakfast, internet and wi-fi, a/c and heat are provided unless otherwise mentioned. Prices are given for the cheapest bed or double room in high season, which starts in mid-Nov.

BARRIO VIEJO AND CENTRO

Boulevard Sarandí Sarandí 405, at Zabala  029153765,  boulevardsarandihostel.com. This friendly family-run hostel on Ciudad Vieja’s pedestrian drag has a cosy layout and is outfitted with gaucho items. The living room has a bar and holds events such as jam sessions. Dorms UR$320, doubles UR$1000

 Posada al Sur Pérez Castellano 1424  29165287,  posadaalsur.com.uy. The most ethical choice in Montevideo, with organic breakfasts and community-oriented tours. Light common areas enhance the buena onda (“good vibes”). Its location close to the port is great during the day, but you might want to take a taxi back at night. Dorms UR$350, doubles UR$1050, en-suite apartment UR$1580

Red San José 1406  29088514,  redhostel.com. Up a grand staircase in a building with nice architectural flourishes, this hostel is a 20min walk to the old city, but still very central, just off Av 18 de Julio. With various communal areas, including a roof terrace and living room with fireplace, it is a nice place to relax. Dorms UR$400, doubles UR$1450

Río de la Plata Av18 de Julio 937  29085174. A six storey old-fashioned basic hotel, complete with caged elevator, that’s stacked with character. The antique furniture, as well as the rock-bottom prices, makes up for the occasional sagging mattress. The best rooms face the street. No breakfast. Doubles UR$600

 Splendido Bartolomé Mitre 1314  29156171,  splendidohotel.com.uy. This budget hotel with retro styling is truly splendid. All rooms have balconies overlooking Teatro Solís, and each has a different shabby-chic personality. There’s a kitchen you can use and the breakfast is good; the only downside is that it’s above the most popular bars in the Ciudad Vieja, so bring earplugs. Rooms sleep 1–5 people. Doubles UR$900

Ukelele Maldonado 1183 between Michelini and Ruíz  29027844,  ukelelehostel.com. You can really relax in what was the family home of owner Patricia. This enormous house with soaring ceilings eschews the institutional feel that you find in many hostels, and, unusually for Montevideo, has a pool and nice patio garden. With no heating, the place becomes a little fridge-like in winter, though. Dorms UR$350, doubles UR$1040

POCITOS AND PUNTA CARRETAS

Montevideo Up Riachuelo 175  27123463,  montevideoup.com.uy. A somewhat chaotic place run by a likeable family who make you feel welcome with no set times for breakfast and free use of the washing machine. In a pleasant neighbourhood just one block from the water. Dorms UR$440, doubles UR$1100

Pocitos Sarmiento 2641  27118780,  pocitoshostel.com. Let the good times roll in one of the city’s most likeable – if cramped – backpacker joints, with a lovely garden and good rates on private rooms. The young owners also have a hostel in Colonia. Dorms UR$360, doubles UR$600

Puerto Verde José M. Montero 2948, Punta Carretas  27126172,  puertoverdehostel.com. A Chilean-run petit hostel in wealthy Punta Carretas in a delightful house filled with light and art. There’s a common room with a fireplace and a small patio. Dorms UR$320

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EATING

Café culture is big in Montevideo, with several galleries and design stores doubling as cafés and small restaurants. There are some truly great eating experiences to be found. Restaurants open noon–4pm and 8pm–midnight unless stated.

BARRIO VIEJO AND CENTRO

 Brasilero Ituzaingó 1447  cafebrasilero.com.uy. Established in 1877, this is the most classic café in Montevideo, with cosy dark wooden walls and furniture. With its good, fresh food and huge selection of tea and coffee, it’s no wonder it has been favoured by Uruguayan literary giants such Mario Benedetti and Eduardo Galeano. Coffee and cake UR$75.

Confiteria 25 de Mayo 25 de Mayo 655, at Bartolomé Mitre. A patisserie/bakery with an unbeatable selection of snacks and takeaway lunches, but what it’s really known for are the mouth-watering pastries, sold by weight, adorning the windows. Menú del día UR$180.

 Doméstico Reconquista 587. This gourmet café, beloved among the city’s arty crowd, serves fresh, seasonal and inventive dishes and is tucked away in La Pasionaria. Mains UR$250.

La Pasiva Sarandí 600, Plaza de la Constitución. A national institution for one thing and one thing only; panchos (hot dogs) and beer at the bar. This one is the original, but it is now a nationwide chain offering other reliable fast food. Daily 8am–2am.

Posada Sur Paraguay, at Gardel. A neighbourhood parrilla whose terrace has glimpses of the river, and whose walls and food are infused with Uruguayan gaucho tradition. For the less carnivorous there is fish, pasta and salads too. Parrillada for two (plenty for three!) UR$595.

El Rincón Rincón, at Zabala, Ciudad Vieja & Buxareo 1321, Pocitos. Those really on a shoestring cannot do better than this empanada joint where whatever you choose is made to order and arrives piping hot. There are twenty fillings to choose from, both savoury and sweet. The molten dulce de leche filling is divine. Empanadas UR$25–40.

Rincón de los Poetas San José 1312, at Yaguarón. For big, cheap plates of comfort food, try this popular lunch and dinner spot above the artisan market in the beautiful old Mercado de la Abundancia. Menú del día UR$140–200. Closed Sun.

PUNTA CARRETAS AND POCITOS

Carbón, Sal y Leña España 2688, at Fco. Aguilar, Pocitos. A highly recommended parrilla run by a friendly husband and wife who cook arguably the best steak in the city on their wood-fired grill. Imaginative sides, stir-fries and home-made pasta too. Mains UR$200–400. Mon–Sat from 8pm. Closed Jan.

Philomène Solano García 2455, at Miñones. An elegant, but cosy, French-style café serving some great light bites – including gourmet soups, sandwiches and salads (UR$160) – as well as the finest real tea in the city. Closed Sun.

 TREAT YOURSELF

The fantastically atmospheric Mercado del Puerto has become a victim of its own success with most restaurants offering overpriced and distinctly average food. While El Palenque ( 29170190,  elpalenque.com.uy) may be a little overpriced (the UR$80 cover charge could almost buy you a whole meal elsewhere), it bucks the trend by serving truly excellent food. You’ll end up spending at least UR$500 for the fresh seafood and meat, cooked on the grill in front of you, but it’s worth it. Usually open for lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, lunch only on Sun; closed Sun or Mon (depending on time of year).

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DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

There are a number of good bars in the Ciudad Vieja, mainly along Bartolomé Mitre and Ciudadela. The area known as the “World Trade Centre” in Pocitos (Av Dr. Luís A. de Herrera leading up from the Rambla República del Perú) has a huge number of bars and clubs, but they tend to be more expensive than in the centre. Bars open in the early evening and close in the early hours, when, at weekends, clubs will open.

BARS AND CLUBS

Baar Fun Fun Cuidadela 1229  baarfunfun.com.uy. Open since 1895, Fun Fun is a small place steeped in the history of tango, visited by guests from the president of Chile to Bryan Adams. You can watch some top tango singers and dancers while you try the house speciality drink, uvita (similar to grappa), for just UR$80. Open Tues–Sat, see board outside for what’s on.

Burlesque Av Dr. Luís A de Herrera 1136. One of the most popular bars in Pocitos, this Americana-themed bar has a massive range of whiskies (over 70), good Tex-Mex food and is a great place to start – or finish – on this buzzing nightlife boulevard. Daily from 6.30pm.

Caín Dance Cerro Largo 1833  caindance.com. Uruguay is one of the most gay-friendly countries in South America and Caín is the most friendly gay club in town, getting its groove on every Fri and Sat night. Opens at midnight, though no one goes before 3am.

Living Paulier 1050. A chilled-out grungy bar, between the centre and Pocitos, that will make you feel at home in Montevideo. The staff will join you for a shot of the house Grappamiel (UR$60), and DJs might take over the downstairs room. Open Wed–Sun 9pm–3/6am.

 Museo del Vino Maldonado 1150  29083430,  museodelvino.com.uy. Despite its name this is no museum but a wine (only national wines are sold) and tango bar. Live music can command covers of up to UR$250, but the ambience is well worth it. There are free milongas (community tango dances) every week. Tues–Sat from 9pm; tango classes Wed 8pm.

< Back to Drinking and nightlife

LIVE MUSIC AND CULTURE

 La Conjura Tristán Narvaja 1634, at Uruguay  24021245. A secondhand bookstore selling locally made clothes with a cheap café (daily noon–8pm; menú del día UR$70), also with live Candombe, tango and Afro-Uruguayan beats (Thurs–Sat from 10.30pm & Sun lunchtime).

Joven Tango Mercado de la Abundancia, San José 1312  joventango.org. If you are a tango enthusiast, head to the food court of this market (see Mercado de los Artesanos), which is converted into a dancefloor for classes followed by dancing most nights of the week.

Teatro Solís  219503323,  teatrosolis.org.uy. Uruguayans are very cultured and justly proud of their historic theatre. Shows the best of Uruguayan opera, music and theatre at subsidized prices. Tickets start at around UR$150.

Teatro de Verano Rambla Wilson, at Cachón  2712 4972,  teatrodeverano.org.uy. For some of the biggest moments during Carnaval and to see international music stars, try this big outdoor amphitheatre in Parque Rodó.

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CINEMAS

Most films are shown in their original language with Spanish subtitles. You can find all the theatres in the country (there aren’t many) listed at  cartelera.com.uy under “Cine por sala”. Tickets cost UR$120–180. There are small movie theatres in the centre, but the best choice of films is at Casablanca (21 de Septiembre 2838, at Ellauri  27123795) in Punta Carretas, and the enormous Movicenter in Montevideo Shopping (Luis Alberto de Herrera 1290  29003900,  movie.com.uy) in Pocitos.

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SHOPPING

Av 18 de Julio is Montevideo’s main commercial street, while there are some large malls located in the richer neighbourhoods of Pocitos and Punta Carretas.

Bookshop Central shops at Sarandí 640 and at 18 de Julio 1296 with Yaguarón (shops 4–5). See  bookshop.com.uy for locations (“surcursales”). Stocks a good range of English-language novels.

Esencia Uruguay Sarandí 359. If you can’t get out to the bodegas in the countryside, sampling Uruguay’s fine wine selection at this pleasant shop may well be the next best thing.

Manos del Uruguay San José 1111. The discount store of the international brand with a range of high-quality woollen clothes, all of which are handmade in Uruguay.

Mercado de los Artesanos Mercado de la Abundancia, San José 1312; Mercado Plaza, Plaza Cagancha; Espacio Cultural Rafael Barradas, Pérez Castellano 1542,  mercadodelosartesanos.com.uy. Three excellent indoor artisan markets where you can find original, high-quality souvenirs.

La Pasionaria Reconquista 587  lapasionaria.com.uy. A sophisticated multipurpose art complex housing a design store, boutique clothing shop, small gallery, and the excellent café Doméstico.

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DIRECTORY

Banks and exchange You’ll find ATMs in Tres Cruces Terminal, and branches of all the major banks along Av 18 de Julio in the centre, or at the World Trade Centre in Pocitos. Exchange rate, by law, is the same everywhere, so change your money wherever you see casas de cambio.

Embassies and consulates Argentina, Cuareim 1470–11  29028166; Australia, Cerro Largo 1000  29010743; Brazil, Blvr Artigas 1328  27072003; Canada, Plaza Independencia 749, office number 102  29022030; South Africa, Dr. Gabriel Otero 6337  26017131; UK, Marco Bruto 1073  26223630; US, Lauro Muller 1776  217702000.

Hospital Hospital Britanico, near the Tres Cruces Bus Station on Italia 2400 ( 24871020), offers good private healthcare.

Internet and phone Phone Box, Av 18 de Julio, at Andes, is open 24hr.

Laundry Most of the hostels have cheap laundry services available. There are no self-service laundrettes but La Lavanderia, at Andes 1333, charges UR$100 to wash and dry a backpack full of clothes.

Left luggage There is 24hr left-luggage at Tres Cruces bus terminal (UR$120/24hr). Most hostels will let you store things for free.

Pharmacies 24hr pharmacy just off Plaza Independencia at 843 Av 18 de Julio.

Post office Misiones 1328 (Ciudad Vieja), at Ejido, between San José and Soriano (central).

Tourist Police Uruguay 1667, at Minas ( 08008226). Look out for the police officers in high-visibility vests.

Supermarket Chain Ta-Ta has a central store at 880 Av 18 de Julio (daily 9am–10pm).

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Western Uruguay

Although Western Uruguay in general has often been neglected by visitors heading for the eastern beaches, Colonia del Sacramento, just one hour away from Buenos Aires, is the most common point of entry for tourists – especially Argentine day-trippers – as well as being one of the most beautiful and intriguing towns on the whole continent.

COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO

Originally a seventeenth-century Portuguese smuggling port designed to disrupt the Spanish base of Buenos Aires across the Río de la Plata, COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO (often referred to simply as “Colonia”) is a picturesque town with charming little museums, plenty of outdoor activities and some of the best foodie culture in Uruguay. Despite an increasing number of tourists visiting the town, it retains a sleepy indifference to the outside world and merits more than just a day-trip to get to know it better.

 TREAT YOURSELF

If you are tired of tackling Colonia’s cobbles on foot, several companies offer motor-scooters (UR$160/hr), two-person buggies or even four-person golf carts (both UR$300/hr) to rampage around the streets. Motorent (Manuel Lobo 505 & Virrey Cevallos 223,  45229665,  motorent.com.uy) have the best prices. Relevant driving licence needed.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Start your trip at BIT, the “Uruguay experience”, the country’s flagship tourist information centre (Odriozola 434; daily 10am–7pm;  45221072,  bitcolonia.com; free wi-fi), two blocks from both the bus terminal and ferry port. It’s architecturally interesting – built in a modernist glass box at the old railway station, beautifully integrated with the disused tracks – and is also a fantastic source of information for both Colonia and the whole country. From there it’s an easy stroll around the atmospheric Barrio Histórico (old quarter), or there’s an easy half-day excursion on foot or by bus to the eerie abandoned resort of Real de San Carlos.

Around the Plaza Mayor

At the southwestern corner of the plaza is the lighthouse (daily noon–6pm; UR$15), which affords great views from the cupola, while at the southeastern corner lie the remains of the old (if heavily restored) city gateway, the Portón de Campo. Once charged with protecting the important trade centre from invading forces, now they permanently separate old Colonia from the “new” city.

  A few blocks north of the plaza, along Vasconcellos, the Iglesia Matríz claims to be the oldest church in Uruguay, with some columns from the original Portuguese building constructed in 1730.

The central museums

Dotted around the Barrio Histórico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a series of eight modest museums (all open 11.15am–4.30pm, each closed one day a week on different days; joint ticket UR$50;  museoscolonia.blogspot.com). The Museo Municipal (closed Thurs) on the west side of Plaza Mayor, is the only place you can buy the joint ticket. It houses town treasures and a small natural history museum and is worth a peek around. A few of the other museums deserve a look if you have time, especially the restored Casa Nacarello (closed Tues), next to the Museo Municipal, whose tiny rooms, with period furnishings, give you a taste of colonial life. The Museo del Período Histórico Portugés (between De Solís and De los Suspiros on the Plaza; closed Fri) is also worth a visit; you’ll find some fine azulejos here, and the internal walls are constructed in rectangular and diagonal brick patterns, dating back to around 1720.

  The similarly named Museo del Período Histórico Español (De España, at De San José; closed Wed), at the north end of the Barrio Histórico, also exhibits colonial items, but, most interestingly, has seven evocative oil paintings by Uruguay’s most famous contemporary painter, Carlos Páez Vilaro, creator of Casapueblo, depicting important moments in Colonia’s history.

Bastión del Carmen

Wandering along the piers on the northern edge of the Barrio Histórico, you’ll notice the striking red-brick Bastión del Carmen (Rivadavia 223; daily 10am–8pm; free;  45227201), with walls dating from the time of Governor Vasconcellos (1722–49). Once a fortress, it was converted into a factory producing soap and gelatine products in the 1880s, and a chimney from that period still stands. Today it operates as a cultural centre, with a theatre, gallery and a small museum dedicated to its history.

Real de San Carlos

Outside of Colonia’s touristic centre, the only attraction in town is the Real de San Carlos. Originally the brainchild of millionaire Nicolas Mihanovic, who conceived the idea of an exclusive tourist complex for rich Argentines, it now lies largely deserted. Between 1903 and 1912, he constructed a magnificent bullring, which was used only eight times in two years, a frontón (Basque pelota) court which now lies decaying, and a racecourse, which is the only part of the resort still operational.

  Regular horse races take place, and the horses can frequently be seen exercising along the nearby beach. If you fancy a ride yourself, the Hostel Colonial organizes horseriding trips for up to four hours (UR$1000) to forests and wineries outside town. To get there either walk the 5km north along the rambla, or catch a bus (10min) from the bottom end of Avenida General Flores.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO

By bus and ferry The terminal and port are located next to each other three blocks to the south of Av General Flores (the main street). The town centre is a 10min walk to the west along Manuel Lobo.

Destinations by bus Carmelo (every 2hr Mon–Sat, 3 daily Sun; 45min–1hr 30min); Montevideo (every 1–2hr; 2hr 45min).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Colonia has no shortage of tourist information centres. Head to BIT first, then to the branch in the historical centre on Manuel Lobo by the Portón de Campo, run by the Intendencia (daily 9am–6pm;  45228506,  coloniaturismo.com), if you still need information. There are smaller offices in both the bus and ferry terminals.

Tour operators Local operator Minitur (van often parked outside tourist information office on Lobo;  093724893,  coloniaescondida.com) can take you on city tours, as well as to vineyards and to Parque Anchorena – the historic country home of the president which has its own nature reserve – for around US$25/person. City walks with professional guides start at the tourist information office on Lobo daily at 11am and again at 3pm (UR$100 in Spanish or UR$150 in English with prior reservation;  099379167).

ACCOMMODATION

The standard of budget accommodation in Colonia is dire and prices are higher than elsewhere. On the other hand, most are very central, but it’s worth investigating the out-of-town estancia El Galope. Breakfast is included unless otherwise stated.

HOSTELS

 Sur Rivadavia 448, at Mendez  45220553,  surhostel.com. The lovely lads who run this and Pocitos Hostel in Montevideo have made it their mission to spread buena onda (“good vibes”) among their guests, and the staff are always on hand to socialize and give a local perspective. Dorms UR$340, doubles UR$1000

El Viajero Hostel & Suites/B&B Posada W. Barbot 164  45222683; Florida 269  45228645,  elviajerohostels.com. Success has made this Uruguayan chain of HI hostels feel a little formulaic and institutional, but it is always a reliable choice. In Colonia, there is a hostel with some “suites” (private rooms), and around the corner is a “B&B Posada” offering very nice private rooms with TV and DVDs, some with river views. Dorms UR$400, suites UR$1600, B&B Posada doubles from UR$1900

HOTELS

The hotels mentioned here provide rooms with TV, private bathrooms and a free breakfast. For a comprehensive list of hotels and hostels by star rating, try  hotelesencolonia.com.

 El Capullo 18 de Julio 219  45230135,  elcapullo.com. Run by a British-American couple, this boutique hotel is stylish yet cosy, with a gorgeous garden and a great breakfast buffet. At the pricier end of budget, but head and shoulders above other places which charge only a couple of hundred pesos less. Doubles UR$2200

Rivera Rivera 131  45220807,  hotelrivera.com.uy. A comfy hotel with an Alpine feel, conveniently located a block from the bus terminal and port. Doubles UR$1700

EATING

Although the restaurants in the Barrio Histórico are pricey, the quality on the whole is excellent and the ambience is hard to beat. Restaurant opening hours are 11am–midnight unless otherwise noted. Contact details are given where booking is recommended.

La Bodeguita Del Comercio 167. Buzzing, stylish place whose three terraces overlooking the river get crowded with people who’ve heard rumours of the best pizzas in town (UR$110). Tues–Sun from 8pm; Sun also 12.30–3.30pm.

Buen Suspiro C de los Suspiros 90  45226160. On the most photographed street in Uruguay, only recognizable by a discreet sign, this foodie heaven specializes in fine wines, cheeses, charcuterie and preserves attractively served on platters for sharing (as a main for two UR$490). Closed Wed.

 Lentas Maravillas Santa Rita 61. If you’ve got an afternoon to relax you won’t find a cosier way to do it than perusing owner Maggie’s English-language books in front of the fire or on the riverside deck. Inventive baked goods, gourmet sandwiches (UR$280) and hot drinks. Daily noon–8pm, weekends only April–Nov.

 Mi Carrito Lavalleja between Rivadivia and Dr. D. Fonseca. There is nowhere locals rave about for budget food more than this food truck selling the best bad food you’ll ever eat. Try the epic milanesa for two with every topping imaginable (UR$170), or the pancho wrapped in bacon with mozzarella (UR$60). Daily 11.30am–4pm & 8pm–1am except Sun (lunch only).

Viejo Barrio Vasconcellos 169. This otherwise decent Italian restaurant serves the best veal milanesas (like a schnitzel) this side of Vienna, including one stuffed with ham and cheese (UR$240). Thurs–Mon 11am–midnight, Tues & Wed 11am–4pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

Matamala Ituzaíngo 222. A surprisingly sophisticated bar which would be rather more at home in Brooklyn, with stylish furniture, chilled alternative music, Belgian bottled beers and a refined liquor collection (UR$100 for a generous measure). Thurs–Sat from 9pm.

Tr3s Cu4tro Alberto Mendez 295,  trescuarto.com. Their website says it all: “one building, two courtyards, three dancefloors, four bars, steaming hot”. A great Uruguayan “boliche” (bar/nightclub), good for just a few drinks, or for staying up all night. There is an entry fee (UR$50–100), but once you get in, food and drinks are reasonably priced. There’s often live music too. Fri & Sat from 11pm.

SHOPPING

The Barrio Histórico is littered with fashionable, pricey boutiques selling locally made as well as more generic leather goods, but the best deals for handicrafts are to be found either at the fería or artisans’ market (Dr. Daniel Fosalba; daily 10am–6pm).

El Abrazo Flores 272. A commendable little shop selling Uruguay-specific books, including English translations of national authors Bennedetti and Galeano, music, and locally made gifts and clothes.

Colonia Shopping Roosevelt 458,  coloniashopping.com.uy. A brand-new mall with all the expected facilities, including a cinema.

DIRECTORY

Av General Flores is the main commercial street and has many banks, casas de cambio and ATMs as well as pharmacies. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, try at Colonia Shopping.

Hospital 18 de Julio between Rivera and Mendez.

Internet Free wi-fi in the Plaza 25 de Mayo, computers either at the main Antel office, or there’s an internet café at Flores 172, open until 9pm every night.

Laundry Arco Iris on Suárez between Flores and 28 de Julio.

Left luggage Facilities at the bus terminal, and at BIT.

Post office and telephone Correo Uruguayo and Antel have main offices next to each other on Lavalleja on Plaza 25 de Agosto, and share an office in the ferry terminal.

Taxi A 24hr service is run from the corner of Flores with Mendez ( 45222920).

Tourist Police At the main comisaría on Flores opposite Plaza 25 de Mayo ( 45223348).

Supermarket El Económico mini-market, Flores 290, at Barboto; Micro Macro, Flores, at Rivera.

< Back to Uruguay

The Interior

Some of South America’s most undiscovered natural beauty awaits you in Uruguay’s INTERIOR. This is real gaucho country and it’s easily accessible, if little known about. While most of the interior is unknown to tourists, largely due to the fact it’s mostly covered in vast ranches, some of Uruguay’s finest and least explored pastoral landscapes are within reach of Minas, a small town with a big history.

MINAS

Just 120km from Montevideo, but far from the usual backpacker trail, MINAS, the capital of the Lavalleja department, is an excellent base for exploring the rolling hills and romantic traditions of Uruguay’s interior – you won’t have to go far before you see a genuine mounted gaucho wearing a poncho and clutching his mate. Delving into this region’s history can give you a deeper understanding of the Uruguayan mentality and the nation’s history.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

In Minas, there are some interesting museums worth visiting, as well as pleasant parks, but around Minas is where the real fun lies. Parque del Salto Penitente, in craggy moor-like countryside, offers outdoor adventures aplenty, while Villa Serrana is a copse of isolated houses offering complete rest and relaxation in pretty surrounds.

Central Minas

Most of the region’s draw lies in the rolling hills surrounding the town, but there are some cultural surprises here that warrant a pause before heading out into the countryside. The city is easily navigated; the main shopping street, 18 de Julio, is parallel with Avenida Treinta y Tres which runs along the north side of the main square, the Plaza Libertad, and onwards to the bus terminal. Full of palm trees and with a horseback statue of the national hero Juan Lavalleja who lends his name to the department, the Plaza Libertad is a pleasant place to sit and enjoy a pastry from one of the country’s most renowned patisseries (see Confitería Irisarri).

Casa de Cultura

One block south of the main Plaza is the excellent series of museums housed in the Casa de Cultura (Lavalleja, at Rodó; daily noon–6pm; free), including rooms displaying gaucho artefacts from the nineteenth century and a room dedicated to Uruguayan composer Eduardo Fabini. Independence leader Lavalleja’s childhood house sits in the central courtyard; one of the forty original houses from the town’s foundation, it has been restored, but its original ceiling beams made from palm trees are intact.

Teatro Lavalleja

The city’s most surprising building is the grand old Teatro Lavalleja (Batlle y Ordoñez between Florencio Sánchez y Sarandí), a magnificent brick construction finished in 1909, with regular productions and also housing the odd Museo del Humor y la Historieta (Mon–Fri noon–5.30pm; free), the only museum in the world dedicated to caricatures.

Cerro Artigas

The city is surrounded by some very pleasant parks. Cerro Artigas is worth visiting for its great views of the city and surrounding hills, as well as its imposing 10m-high concrete statue of the liberator Artigas on his horse; said to be one of the largest equine statues in the world. Avenida Varela goes all the way to Cerro Artigas from central Minas – around a 45-minute walk – or a taxi costs UR$100.

Parque del Salto Penitente

At the heart of this private natural reserve is a delicate waterfall, the eponymous Salto del Penitente, which falls some 60m before following its course. Here there is a restaurant (open daily for lunch), precariously cantilevered off the hillside over the falls, as well as a hostel and terrace affording graceful views across the park, all under the same management ( 44403096,  saltodelpenitente.com). Sleeping is in shared wood cabins (UR$300/400 with/without linen), or you can camp, and there’s a rustic common room with an open fire. For those who decide to stay, activities include horseriding, rock climbing, zip-wiring and abseiling (all UR$150–200), as well as hiking and birdwatching. It’s tricky to get to without a car, but the management can collect you from Minas or a taxi is around UR$800.

Villa Serrana

With zero amenities, other than a couple of places to stay, it’s hard to even award Villa Serrana village status; it’s more a cluster of houses 25km from Minas. However, its location is Elysian, perching on top of a horseshoe string of hills around a lake, with splendid walking, fishing and horseriding opportunities – not to mention magical sunsets. Its other major attraction is a remarkable historic hotel, the Ventorrillo de la Buena Vista ( 44402109,  ventorrillodelabuenavista.com.uy), designed by Uruguayan architect Julio Vilamajó, which attracts architecture fans from across the world. Built in 1946, its brilliance lies in its synthesis with its surroundings, and it has been tastefully restored to run as a splendid inn. There are just four buses a week from Minas to Villa Serrana (9am & 5.30pm on Tues & Thurs, returning shortly after that; 30min), but if you’re staying there you’ll probably be able to arrange a lift with your hosts. Taxis cost UR$1000.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: MINAS

Bus Intercity and local buses arrive and depart from the Terminal de Omnibuses ( 44423178), three blocks west of Plaza Libertad on Treinta y Tres between Claudio Williman and Sarandí.

Destinations Montevideo (hourly; 1hr 40min–2hr 30min); Punta del Este (4–7 daily; 2hr); Villa Serrana (4 weekly; 30min).

Taxi 24hr service from the Plaza Libertad ( 099844159). Set prices to surrounding areas.

Tourist information At the bus station (daily 8am–7pm;  44429796,  www.minascity.com/turismo &  lavalleja.gub.uy).

ACCOMMODATION

It’s worth booking ahead; accommodation is limited and fills up fast, especially during Minas’ large festivals over nine days in October and on April 9.

Camping Arequita 10km north of town on Ruta 12  44402503,  www.lavalleja.gub.uy/web/lavalleja/campingarequita. Set in pleasant grounds at the foot of Cerro Verdún (a grand rocky peak with caves to explore), each plot has electricity and a barbecue. Horseriding can be arranged, but there’s no internet. 12km from town; buses from Minas run Dec–Feb. Self-catering cabins UR$900, mini-cabins (beds only) UR$350, camping/person UR$90

Posada Verdún Dr. Washington Beltrán 715  44424563,  hotelposadaverdun.com. The same family has run this posada, the best-value place in town, for more than two decades. The rooms are clean with private bathrooms and TV; there’s also a recommended restaurant. Doubles (includes breakfast) UR$1000

 Villa Serrana B&B The green thatched house in Villa Serrana  098280811,  villaserrananp.com. Owned by the exuberant Zen, who speaks fluent English, the house has three spacious rooms and is decorated with flea-market finds and bright colours. There is also an adjacent self-catering bungalow for groups. Horseriding and other day-trips in the country can be arranged. Breakfast included and other meals can be provided. Doubles UR$1400 (cheaper without breakfast), bungalow (up to 6 people) UR$2000

EATING

Nightlife is limited to drinking in restaurants.

 Confitería Irisarri Treinta y Tres 618, Plaza Libertad  confiteriairisarri.com.uy. A family business originating in 1898, this confectionery shop and tearoom is one of the great treats in the region. Try their speciality – yemas – bonbons designed to look like egg yolks. Selection of pastries with coffee UR$50. Daily 9am–9pm.

Ki-Joia Domingo Pérez 489, Plaza Libertad. A surprisingly modern, good-value parrilla with quick and friendly service and alfresco tables overlooking the plaza. The meat is good and the home-made pasta (with real parmesan cheese) is excellent. Mains UR$150–500. Daily from 6pm; parrilla open from 8pm.

 Ventorrillo de la Buena Vista Villa Serrana. The name means “Good View Inn”, and if you can’t afford the UR$2000 for a double designer room (each has a living room with working fireplace as well as bed and bath), at least eat at the restaurant and enjoy one of the best views and meals in Uruguay (mains UR$200–300). Try the Borego Confitado – lamb, date and walnuts with beetroot pasta. Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, or 11pm at weekends for dinner.

DIRECTORY

Av 18 de Julio is the main commercial street and has many banks, casas de cambio and ATMs as well as pharmacies and laundries.

Hospital On Av Pedro Varela between Maldonado and Dighiero  44422058.

Internet Cyber Peatonal on 25 de Mayo charges UR$12/hr and there’s free wi-fi in Plaza Libertad.

Left luggage Facilities at the bus terminal.

Phone Antel office at Treinta y Tres 589, just of Pza. Libertad.

Police Off Pza. Libertad down Vidal y Fuentes.

Post office Correo Uruguayo, Wáshington Beltrán, at 25 de Mayo.

Supermarket Las Palmas, 18 de Julio, at Sarandí.

< Back to Uruguay

The eastern beaches

Uruguay’s biggest draw is its vast, and largely unspoilt, coastline. Humans have made their mark with balnearios (coastal resorts or villages), each with a very different feel to them.

  Between Maldonado and Rocha departments you can choose between the hedonistic party life in Punta del Este, the isolated and rugged Cabo Polonio, the blissful beaches and dunes of Valizas or wild surfing and nightlife in Punta del Diablo, all with shimmering lagoons full of birdlife in between.

  The towns are easy to hop between, especially in the summer, but be warned that they change drastically off-season; holidaymakers can increase the population in these tiny towns to twenty times their normal numbers in high season, but in winter everything shuts down and they can feel completely deserted. Other than in luxurious Punta del Este, be sure to come with enough cash to fuel your stay; there are no banks or ATMs in the smaller villages.

PUNTA DEL ESTE

Situated on a narrow peninsula 140km east of Montevideo, PUNTA DEL ESTE – often written as PdE – is a jungle of high-rise hotels, expensive restaurants, casinos and designer stores bordered by some of the finest beaches on the coast. Exclusive, luxurious and often prohibitively expensive, between this and the nearby towns of La Barra and José Ignacio, this is the place to be seen for many South American celebrities in summer.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

The best thing to do in PdE is what everyone else does: go to the beach during the day and go drinking at night. Within striking distance and well worth the trip is the whitewashed Casapueblo, a remarkable villa and art gallery.

The beaches

These are what attract most visitors to Punta del Este, and two of the best are on either side of the neck of the peninsula. Playa Mansa on the bay side is a huge, arcing stretch of sand, with plenty of space for sunbathing and gentle waves, while Playa Brava on the eastern side is where you go if you’re serious about surfing, or simply to compare your height to the fingers of the uncanny Hand in the Sand sculpture, one of Uruguay’s most famous sights. Both sides are commonly referred to by these names, although there are actually many beaches with their own names.

Off the coast

From Playa Mansa, there are excellent views out to the wooded Isla de Gorriti, once visited by Sir Francis Drake (boats daily in high season if sufficient demand; UR$300/person). Slightly further off the coast lies the Isla de Lobos, home to one of the largest sea-lion colonies in the world. Calypso (opposite La Galerna at the entrance to the harbour;  42446152) offer expensive tours, though if you just want to see sea lions, it’s worth heading down to the port itself in the early morning: they are often out sunbathing as the fishermen set sail.

On the peninsula

Life on the peninsula itself offers a glimpse of what the town must have been like when it was a modest holiday village a few decades back – the port area up to Plaza el Faro is charmingly old-world and the houses represent a host of architectural styles not present in the identikit luxury developments that have sprung up all along the adjacent coastal roads.

Casapueblo

The area’s best sight is the vision of Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró – Casapueblo (daily 10am–sunset; UR$150 for entry to museum; upwards of UR$4000 for a room out of high season;  42578041,  carlospaezvilaro.com.uy &  clubhotelcasapueblo.com). He started the construction himself in the late 1950s, and today it’s an unwieldy yet strangely beautiful villa, restaurant, hotel and art gallery clinging to the side of a craggy peninsula 15km west of PdE. Bright white and lacking any right angles, it’s well worth a visit to see Vilaró’s artwork and have a cocktail in the bar at sunset. To get there from PdE, take any bus from the terminal towards Montevideo and ask to be dropped at the entrance to Punta Ballena, from where you’ll have a 30min walk up along the peninsula. Alternatively, a taxi will cost UR$500–600.

La Barra

Sandwiched between forested hills on one side and golden beaches on the other, La Barra took over from PdE as the fashionable place to stay for those tired of the crowds of PdE, and its characterful houses are set along tree-lined dirt tracks which preserve its rustic feel. With gentrification, hippy cafés have been replaced with designer clothing stores, but it’s still the place for summer nightlife, with new “it” clubs springing up each year. One kilometre from the famous undulating bridge connecting PdE with La Barra, you’ll find the frankly bizarre Museo del Mar & Insectario (well signposted; daily 10.30am–5.30pm/8.30pm; UR$150;  42771817,  museodelmar.com.uy), whose intriguing collection of marine artefacts includes a mind-boggling array of seashells, insects, and a 19m whale skeleton.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: PUNTA DEL ESTE

Addresses are often given by their parada – or bus stop number – which you’ll see on poles in the middle of the large dual carriageway – the Costanera – which hugs the coast either side of PdE. The streets in the peninsula have names and numbers, but addresses usually give their numbers.

By bus Punta del Este’s bus station lies at the top end of Av Gorlero, just past the roundabout, at the neck of the peninsula. It’s a 10min walk to the port along Av Gorlero, or a 5min walk to Playas Mansa or Brava. To reach the beaches further east, you need to get back to the main Ruta 9 by catching the #1 or #2 bus from Punta del Este to San Carlos (every 15min–1hr; 50min) from C 20 (winter), or C 26 (summer). From there most buses with Chuy as the destination will stop in Punta del Diablo (2hr 30min), or get off at Castillos for connecting buses to Cabo Polonio or Valizas. Alternatively, there are two buses direct to Castillos each day (11am & 5pm) from PdE’s terminal.

Local buses #9, #12, #17 and #19 go from C 20 (winter), or C 26 (summer) to Maldonado via Punta Shopping (every 30min; daily 6am–11pm; 20min). Codesa buses go from the terminal to La Barra, Manantiales and José Ignacio (Mon–Sat hourly from 5.20am–midnight; Sun 6am–9pm; more buses in summer). See  maldonado.gub.uy and  codesa.com.uy for timetables (horarios).

Destinations Minas (4–7 daily; 2hr); Montevideo (every 30min; 2hr).

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Car rental All the major international firms have agencies in PdE, otherwise try the travel agents listed here.

Surfing Sunvalley Surf ( 42448622,  sunvalleysurf.com) have two stores in PdE, one at Playa El Emir (C 28, at Rambla Artigas) on the peninsula and the other at Playa Brava, between paradas 3 and 4 (daily 11am–7pm all year), and another opposite the Nike shop in La Barra (daily 11am–11pm all year).

Taxi Taxi stands by the beaches, on Gorlero and at the bus terminal. Minicabs are sometimes cheaper than metered cabs – PdE can get snarled up with traffic. Try Punta Remises at Artigas, at Chiverta ( 42498585), or driver José Techera ( 098447000).

Tourist information National tourist office at Gorlero 942, at C 30 (high season: daily 10am–1.30pm & 2.30–6pm; low season: Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–4pm). Local tourist office in Plaza Artigas (daily 8am–5pm or later in high season;  42446510), and in bus terminal. The website  vivapunta.com has good information in English.

Tour operators Most tour companies offer city tours (usually including Casapueblo), boat trips, vineyard and ranch tours, as well as organizing motorized transport such as Segways and quad bikes, or renting cars or bikes. Hostels generally provide the most backpacker-friendly tours, but try A.G.T. ( 42490570,  alvarogimenoturismo.com) in the bus terminal, or DW Service (Artigas, at Chiverta;  42491749,  dwservice.com.uy) if you want to go it alone. Nationwide tour operators covering PdE are also worth checking out.

ACCOMMODATION

In the summer months (Dec–Feb) accommodation is wildly overpriced (you may pay upwards of US$50 for a dorm bed), yet this does not put people off; book at least a month in advance. In winter you won’t need to book and prices will be affordable again, but most hostels close down completely. Options listed here are open year-round (except the campsite), but do check online if you’re going in summer. If you’re stuck, try the tourist information offices, who can help with accommodation.

CAMPING

San Rafael Aparicio Saravia (no number), 800m from Parada 30  42486715,  campingsanrafael.com.uy. Set in pleasant woods, this campsite has a minimart and wi-fi, and lies just 1km from La Barra. Closed April–Oct. It’s 15 percent cheaper off season and there are other discounts for longer stays. Camping/person UR$250, self-catering cabin (sleeps 4) UR$2000

HOSTELS

Several buses run every hour (and throughout the night in high season) to La Barra and Manantiales (10min). Dorm beds in Jan will cost upwards of UR$1000, but quickly fall back to normal prices after that. Prices are given for the cheapest dorm beds and doubles in Jan, breakfast included.

Iguana de La Barra C 8, at Ruta 10, La Barra  42772947,  iguanadelabarra.com. The friendly owners have made their home welcoming and relaxing, with built-in beds instead of bunks in private rooms, and a fireplace downstairs. Dorms UR$1200, en-suite twins UR$3000

Tas d’Viaje C 26, at 27  42445734,  playa.tasdviaje.com. A very nice addition to the hostel scene in PdE, which can be grotty. This place feels like home and is probably the best located of all the hostels, right in the centre of the peninsula. Dorms UR$660

El Viajero Brava Beach Francia, at Charrua  42480331,  elviajerohostels.com. Part of the successful Uruguayan chain, this house on the edge of the peninsula has a large common room with a pool table and fireplace. In high season a second hostel opens at Manantiales beach (Ruta 10 Km164, just past La Barra), 11km away from PdE, which, outside of Dec–Jan, can be around half the cost. Dorms UR$550, en-suite twins UR$3000

HOTELS

Hotel rates (as well as everything else) are typically more reasonable in Maldonado, 20min by bus from PdE (take the #10 from C 20).

Esteño Sarandí 881, Maldonado  42229828,  hotelesteno@hotmail.com. An old-fashioned hotel with modern touches like a/c and wi-fi. Ask for a room with its own balcony (same price). Price includes breakfast. Doubles UR$2000

EATING

The peninsula is packed with expensive restaurants, and even the best-value places are pricey, though there are bargains if you look around. Restaurants usually go by standard Uruguayan opening hours out of season, but in summer you can eat until about 2am. For very cheap fast food, head to Av Gorlero, where places are open 24hr in high season. Cheap seafood is not available in restaurants here, so try the stalls below the port for the freshest hauls and cook at your hostel.

Asado y Milonga Joaquín Lenzina between Francia and Artigas. The big wagon wheel outside characterizes this rustic parrilla, popular with locals, which serves tasty grilled meat and pastas at fair prices. Mains UR$250–400.

Bocado’s C 24, at 25. One of PdE’s only real budget options, this takeaway place serves fantastic home-made quiches, empanadas, pastas and sandwiches, as well as a menú del día. Everything UR$100 or less.

 Calexico Paseo de la Cadena, at Dunkerque, just off the third roundabout up Artigas from the bus terminal  42491190,  restocalexico.com. Inviting Mexican-American restaurant adorned with pretty ceramics that does some of the best food in the city at excellent prices (chicken fajita UR$400). Book in high season. Daily noon–midnight; low season Tues–Sat noon–3pm & 7pm–midnight.

Peca’s Golero, at Las Focas. Better than its rivals across the street, and slightly cheaper (ice cream: two flavours and two toppings UR$70), Peca’s also serves breakfasts and has free wi-fi. Daily 9am–late.

 Pura Vida Ruta 10 Km160, behind the petrol station in La Barra. Informal but elegant restaurant with a slow food ethos and a huge range of interesting dishes, including plenty for vegetarians. Well worth the trip to La Barra (mains UR$200–400). Closed Tues.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

Punta is home to a wild nightlife scene; most bars serve drinks from midday onwards, but the real parties only start at around 2am and rarely end before sunrise. The top clubs change every season, so do some research once you arrive.

Dolce Vita C11, at Rambla Artigas, underneath Boca Chica restaurant  dolcevitapunta.com. This dark and sweaty basement room hosts raucous club nights (entry UR$200), mainly for a young crowd. Sat only, from midnight.

Moby Dick Pub Artigas 650. The only reliable and down-to-earth watering hole in town, albeit with inflated prices. There’s a good range of cocktails (UR$300) to sip outside as you watch the ships go by, and there’s also live music and food. Daily from noon; low season daily from 5pm.

Ocean Club Parada 12, Playa Brava  oceanclub.com.uy. A multi-room venue right on the beach, and one of just two clubs that are open year-round (women free before 2am, men around UR$200), this place is flashy and loud, playing pop, rock and house. Dress to impress. Opens midnight Fri–Sat.

DIRECTORY

Between Av Gorlero and the huge mall Punta Shopping (Roosevelt between Los Alpes and Gattas;  puntashopping.com), you’ll find most services you’ll need. There’s a pleasant artisan market (daily in summer, weekends only in low season, 10am–6pm) in Plaza Artigas.

Banks ATMs and major banks available along Gorlero, with further branches in Punta Shopping.

Cinema Multiplex cinema, arcades and bowling at Punta Shopping.

Hospital Hospital de Maldonado, in Maldonado (Continuación Ventura Alegre;  42559137,  hospitaldemaldonado.com).

Internet Many (expensive) internet cafés on Gorlero; around UR$45/hr.

Language school Spanish Uruguay ( 094264473,  spanishuruguay.com) runs classes and can organize homestays and tours for their students. Also in Montevideo.

Laundry Espumas del Virrey, C 28, at 18.

Pharmacy Farmacia Campus (Gorlero 920); open until 3am in summer.

Phone Antel office at corner of streets 24 & 25.

Police Colonia 1021 ( 08008226, or  911 for emergencies).

Post office Correo Uruguayo, Golero 1037, near the roundabout.

Supermarket Large Tienda Inglesa in Punta Shopping.

CABO POLONIO

Moving east from brash Punta del Este can be quite a shock to the system – the balnearios thin out and become increasingly rustic – but even the most hardy rural-dweller would find the lack of infrastructure in CABO POLONIO surprising. Originally no more than a few fishermen’s huts, the settlement consists of some eighty permanent residents who still live in extremely rustic dwellings; the cape with its dunes and forests is protected as a national park and camping is not allowed.

  There’s nothing to see or do other than soak up the beauty of the cape, spot sea lions near the 120-year-old lighthouse, or hike (you can walk unobstructed both ways along the coast to Valizas 10km to the east, or as far as La Pedrera 43km to the west). Ask around to arrange horseriding, or trips to the Laguna de Castillos with its strange ombú trees. Although in high season it can be inundated with tourists during the day, it still exudes a dreamy, other-worldly isolation, thanks to its lack of roads and electricity, that is best experienced by staying overnight.

  To get to the cape from Valizas it’s possible to hike, ride or pay someone with a rowing boat, but most guests arrive via the newly opened visitor centre ( 095643217,  turismorocha.gub.uy) at the entrance to the national park at Km264.5 of Ruta 10. This is where any bus from Montevideo (daily) or Castillos (at least 3 daily; more during summer) selling you a ticket to Cabo Polonio will drop you (if you’ve rented a car, leaving it in the car park costs UR$185/24hr). From here it’s necessary to walk the final 7km (over sand), or pay for one of the 4WD drivers to take you (30min drive; hourly from around 8.30am–11pm Dec–Feb, less frequent March–Nov; UR$170 round trip).

ACCOMMODATION: CABO POLONIO

Cabo Polonio Hostel  099445943,  cabopoloniohostel.com. A rustic place with solar-powered electricity and a pedal-powered washing machine. Meals can be arranged here, at other lodging/restaurants in the village, or bring your own supplies. Dorms UR$775, doubles UR$1350

BARRA DE VALIZAS

In the summer, Cabo Polonio’s slightly more grown-up next-door neighbour, VALIZAS (as it’s more commonly known), feels like you’re at one big festival. You’ll either love or hate the hazy, dreadlocked, guitar-strumming vibes, with people practically living on the enormous and ancient sand dunes from Christmas until Carnaval in February, but it’s worth staying both for its beauty and because in January, when prices along the coast soar, you’ll find better value here. Out of season you’ll have the sweeping sun-bleached beaches completely to yourself.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: BARRA DE VALIZAS

By bus There are local buses from Castillos (every 2–3hr; 30min) and Montevideo (6 daily; 4–5hr).

ACCOMMODATION

Lucky Valizas No address; simply stroll across the football pitch one block to the right of where the bus will drop you  44754070,  luckyvalizas.com. Stay with Lucky in her home-turned-eco-hostel; she knows everyone in town and can arrange horseriding or boats to Cabo Polonio. Prices include breakfast and are halved, or more, off-season. Dorms UR$400, cabins for two UR$1300, camping/pitch UR$200

EATING

El Rabuk By the lake. The only restaurant open year-round, this husband-and-wife wife team serve excellent fresh fish at bargain prices. Grilled fish with salad UR$150.

PUNTA DEL DIABLO

For a similar mix of remoteness and natural beauty to Cabo Polonio but within reach of a supermarket, electricity and heady nightlife, PUNTA DEL DIABLO is the place to go. Stay in a hostel or beach cabin; relax in a hammock or go out and hit the waves.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

During the summer months the population swells from some 1,500 inhabitants to over 20,000 and you’ll find pop-up businesses, hostels and internet facilities appear – they even wheel in an ATM. The rest of the year you’re pretty much stuck with a handful of restaurants by the Playa Pescadores, the main beach strewn with fishing boats (a tourist information office springs up here during summer months).

  The surfing is excellent all year, and the hostels are the best place to rent gear out of season. There are other beaches either side of Pescadores; northeast the Playa Grande is vast and will lead you to the Parque Santa Teresa 10km away (around a 3hr walk), a small national park with some easy forest treks and an impressive fort. Along the southwest edge of town, the Playa de la Viuda tends to get the biggest waves, although all are good for surfing and the abundance of wide beaches means it never gets unbearably crowded.

  Don’t miss the twenty-minute walk up Avenida Central (starts at the northern end of the Playa Pescadores) until the houses start to thin out. Keep looking to your right, and soon you’ll come across La Casa Mágica –the Magic House. Built by a local woodworker, it’s in the shape of a head, the steps leading up to the door from the tongue, and entirely made from carved wood and found objects. When someone’s in, you’ll be welcomed inside to admire the workmanship and artwork.

CROSSING THE BRAZILIAN BORDER

Crossing the border is straightforward if you catch an international bus from Montevideo or any major town (the last of which is San Carlos) on the Ruta 9 heading north: the bus driver will take your passport details at the start of the journey and get all the required stamps for you en route. If you want to stop in Chuy itself (a haven for duty-free shops and not much else), or are planning to cross the border from any of the beach towns on the northern coast, it becomes more complicated. It is essential that you receive all necessary entrance and exit stamps from both the Uruguayan and Brazilian border controls before entering Brazil.

  All local buses heading north stop at the Brazilian border, 2km to the north of Chuy, but Uruguayan bus drivers do not routinely stop at the Uruguayan border control, so you’ll have to ask to get off. The tourist office at customs (daily 9am–5pm;  44744599,  turismorocha.gub.uy) can assist with information regarding crossings.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: PUNTA DEL DIABLO

By bus At the time of writing there was some debate about where the exact location of the new bus stop would be, but you’ll be dropped somewhere along the only paved road in and out of town; it ends at Av los Pescadores, which leads to the main beach, from where you’ll be able to spot the hostels off to the right when you look back at town. There are offices for all the bus companies which serve the town, but again, these are in the process of moving.

Destinations Chuy (5 daily; 2hr); Montevideo (3 daily; 5hr); Rocha (4 daily; 2hr); San Carlos (for Punta del Este; 1 daily; 3hr).

ACCOMMODATION

Hostels have sprung up like mushrooms in the last few years; check online before you go for hostels which open seasonally. Locals throughout the town also rent out their cabañas for tourists – look out for the signs saying se alquila, but these are generally only a better-value alternative to the hostels if you’re in a large group. As elsewhere, prices stated are for the cheapest bed in high season, but expect the prices to be more than halved outside of Dec–April.

Botella al Mar  marosierras@gmail.com,  marosierras.blogspot.com. Two sweet white cabins just 150m from the Playa Pescadores right in the centre of town; one sleeps 2 and the other 4. They come fully equipped (apart from sheets and towels), and have sea views. Cabin for two per day, min stay 7 days UR$1900

 La Casa de las Boyas C 5 s/n, also access from Av Central  44772624,  lacasadelasboyas.com. This really well-equipped hostel – the oldest in town – sprawls over several buildings all connected with wooden walkways. Kitchenettes in the dorms furthest away from the house, lots of bathrooms and reading lights, as well as a swimming pool, elevate this from the rest. Dorms UR$600, room (sleeps up to 4) with kitchenette UR$3600

 El Diablo Tranquilo Hostel & Suites Hostel on Av Central, Suites opposite on beach  44772647,  eldiablotranquilo.com. Bright red hostel with open-plan common areas and a fun terrace kitchen with sea views, which compensate for the rather cramped dorms. There are boutique en-suite rooms and dorms in both locations; the newer building is on the beach with a funky bar for guests. Dorms UR$700, doubles UR$900–1700

EATING AND DRINKING

The best place to start for food or drink is the Av los Pescadores, leading down to Playa Pescadores. In high season bars and clubs open down by Playa de la Viuda and at the top of Av Central (there are huge parties held near the old bus). Everywhere runs on less than reliable opening hours out of season, but they are more or less the same as elsewhere in Uruguay. In summer everything opens late and closes late to cater for the nocturnal lifestyle.

Desigual Opposite the police station, Av los Pescadores. A funky restaurant and bar with torn-up magazines plastering the walls. It serves decent, cheap pizza, pastas and other fast foods. Pizza and a beer UR$200.

Lo de Olga Av los Pescadores. Olga has over 30 years’ experience serving up the freshest fish in town with an excellent range of seafood, fish, pastas and Uruguayan staples like chivitos, all under UR$350. Ask for the menú túristico, which will be much cheaper than à la carte.

Mirjo Av los Pescadores. A classy joint serving fine food and Italian coffee right by the beach. Grilled fish with side dish UR$300.

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