Vieques
Vieques is the largest of the 24 isles and islets comprising the Spanish Virgin Islands, just off the east coast of Puerto Rico. Culturally and politically part of Puerto Rico, this tropical paradise moves to its own lackadaisical pace, drawing tourists seeking off-the-beaten-track charm. Hotels here are small-scale and trendy, and all-inclusive resorts are entirely absent. Vieques Wildlife Refuge offers nature-lovers plenty of thrills, not least as a nesting site for marine turtles. Much of the island is off-limits, following five decades in which it was a bombing range for the US Navy. However, its beaches are among the most gorgeous in Puerto Rico.
1. Esperanza
This former sugar port, now a sleepy hamlet, overlooks a scenic bay that is popular with yachters. Its scrub-covered, shorefront hills are home to several boutique hotels.
2. Isabel Segunda
Most of the isle’s 9,000 or so people live in this small town, which remains charmingly old world and has little traffic. The town’s lighthouse, built in 1896, adds to its charm.
3. Fort Conde Mirasol and Vieques Art & History Museum
This hilltop fort, built in the 1840s, was the last Spanish fort constructed in the Americas. It now houses the Vieques Art & History Museum, which has displays from pre-Columbian times through the island’s colonial years.
Vieques Art & History Museum • Calle Magnolia 471, Isabel Segunda • 787 741 1717 • open 9am–5:30pm Wed–Sun
4. Bahia Bioluminiscente
This bay seems to come alive at night – bioluminescent microorganisms glow when the water is disturbed. Go on a kayak trip to see for yourself (for further details see Day Trips and Activities).
5. Vieques Wildlife Refuge
Covering 28 sq miles (72 sq km), this preserve protects beaches, coastal lagoons, mangrove wetlands, and upland semi-deciduous forests.Vieques Wildlife Refuge • 787 741 2138 • open 6am–dark • www.fws.gov/caribbean/refuges/vieques
6. Green Beach
This strip of white sand fringes turquoise, coral-filled waters that are great for snorkeling and kayaking. Beware currents that can pull swimmers into the Pasaje de Vieques channel.
7. Blue Beach
Once a setting for the US Navy’s amphibious assault maneuvers, this stunning beach is now entirely peaceful. Rent a kayak and row out to a serene cay.
8. Siddhia Hutchinson Art Gallery
The studio-gallery of local artist Siddhia Hutchinson is a good place to purchase prints, textiles, and ceramics inspired by the natural world of Puerto Rico.Siddhia Hutchinson Art Gallery • Calle 3, Isabel Segunda • 787 741 1343 • open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat
9. Scuba Diving
Dive sites off the south shore include Blue Tank Reef, a 2-mile (3-km) coral reef in clear waters, and Las Tres Rocas, where the reef is packed with corals and sponges and inhabited by moray eels.
10. Laguna Kiani
This wetland ecosystem comprises a large mangrove forest. Manatees can sometimes be seen in the water here, and bulldog bats skim the surface for fish at night.
Red Flag Day
Vieques was used for decades by the US Navy for gunnery practice. On days when shooting was in progress, red flags were hoisted to warn locals that the beaches were off limits. The residents protested for years, and the disagreement came to a head in 1999 after a local guard was killed by an errant bomb. The bombardment ceased in 2003 when the navy pulled out of Vieques.
Tip: A great way to explore the island is by bicycle. Rent a bike from Vieques Adventure Company (for further details see By Bicycle), or join a guided cycling tour. Tip: While exploring Isabel Segunda, break for lunch at Bravo Beach Hotel (bbh) for the best of fine dining with a view.
