San Juan
From the atmospheric charm of the old city to the sophistication of Condado and Isla Verde, San Juan is a lively city that mixes history with contemporary chic. Old San Juan is a lived-in museum of colonial cobbled streets and plazas replete with cathedrals, convents, and colorful mansions, many of which are now boutique hotels, restaurants, and bars. Gorgeous beaches just a few minutes away are lined with luxurious resort hotels and casinos. The city’s museums, theaters, art galleries, and lively festivals satisfy the most demanding of culture enthusiasts.
1. Old San Juan
There’s a good reason more cruise ships anchor at Old San Juan than at any other port in the Caribbean – this charming quarter has something for everyone. Steeped in history, Old San Juan is packed with interesting things to see, from its quaint, cobbled streets overhung with wooden balconies to its massive fortresses and ancient city walls. The National Historic Zone has more than 900 buildings of historic importance, as well as tiny plazas with bohemian cafés and stylish bars that burst into life at night.
2. Condado
East of Old San Juan, the Condado district is reminiscent of Miami’s South Beach, not least for its Art Deco buildings. Beautiful beaches that stretch for 3 miles (5 km) are a very popular venue for locals, especially on holidays and weekends. Avenida Ashford runs parallel to the shore and is lined with gleaming, high-rise condominiums and upscale hotels needling the sky. The boulevard also teems with chic, modern fashion outlets, cosmopolitan restaurants, lively casinos, and sophisticated nightclubs that exemplify the city’s cool, sophisticated Latin vibe.
3. Castillo de San Cristobal
This imposing bastion dominates the eastern approach to the city and was intended to guard against invasion by land. Cannons sit proudly atop the ramparts, pointing toward the ghosts of pirates past. Restoration work has added to its majesty, and the barracks have been turned into a museum showing how they would have looked in colonial times. Free guided tours help bring the past to life (for further details see Castillo de San Cristóbal).
4. Paseo de la Princesa
Leading west from Plaza del Inmigrante, this pedestrian-only promenade, lit by antique street lamps, is ideal for an evening stroll. It ends at the base of Fortaleza San Felipe del Morro, where waves crash against the seawall. Stop to admire the Raíces Fountain, which celebrates the island’s multicultural heritage. Musical performances are held here on Sundays, and stalls are set up on weekends (for further details see Paseo de la Princesa).
5. Plaza del Inmigrante
Also known as Plaza de la Marina because it opens onto the cruise port, this sloping cobbled plaza was built in the 19th century and boasts several impressive buildings. Soaring over the north side is the Banco Popular, a graceful Art Deco structure built in 1939 and adorned with faces of ancient gods. On the east side, the stately Antiguo Edificio de Correos (post office) and Neo-Classical Edificio Federal (Federal Building) add stature to the tree-shaded square (for further details see Plaza del Inmigrante).
6. Fortaleza San Felipe del Morro
Building work on this fortress began in 1539 and was completed in 1786. It was designed to guard the harbor entrance and connected to Castillo de San Cristóbal by massive walls. Today, a National Historic Monument restored and maintained by the US National Parks Service, it displays colonial weaponry and uniforms in the former barracks, and cannons can be admired in their embrasures. A lighthouse, built here in 1843, offers fine vistas over the Campo del Morro, a swathe of greenery separating the fortress from the heart of Old San Juan (for further details see Fortaleza San Felipe del Morro).
7. Plazuela de la Rogativa
This tiny square offers excellent views over Paseo de la Princesa and the harbor, and is a good place to take photo-graphs at sunset. Its focal point is a statue of a bishop and three women bearing lit torches, which commemorates a night in 1797 when the local bishop led a torch-lit procession that fooled an invading English fleet into believing that Spanish reinforcements had arrived.
8. Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico
This vast museum, housed partly in a former hospital and partly in a modernist wing, is one of the largest art galleries in the Caribbean, with 1,100 works on display. It exhibits Puerto Rican art, from 16th century religious works to contemporary masterpieces. Be sure to explore the sculpture garden outside.
Av José de Diego 299, Santurce • 787 977 6277 • Open 10am–5pm Tue & Thu–Sat, 10am–8pm Wed, 11am–6pm Sun • Adm $6 for adults; $3 for children (5–12 years) & seniors
9. Calle del Cristo
The pretty Calle del Cristo is paved with blue-tiled cobblestones and lined with charming two-story town houses graced by wooden balustrades that today double as art galleries, boutiques, and cafés. The Catedral de San Juan Bautista, the city’s ecclesiastical 1852 masterpiece, presents a striking facade. The street ends at the tiny Capilla del Cristo (Christ Chapel).
10. Plaza de San Jose
With its neatly clipped trees and quaint colonial buildings, this ancient plaza is one of Old San Juan’s most delightful areas. At its center stands a life-size statue of Ponce de León. Other sights in the vicinity include the Museo Pablo Casals and the Iglesia San José, famous for its muraled ceiling. Calle San Sebastián’s bars and restaurants have a great atmosphere, especially at night (for further details see Plaza de San José).
Segway Tours
A fun way to explore Old San Juan is atop a self-balancing Segway Personal Transporter (for further details see Tours and Special Interests). This exciting mode of transport guarantees you won’t get tired feet. Certified guides escort you to the key sites as you wheel around the old city on either the 45-minute or the 2-hour tour.
A Morning Walk Around Old San Juan
Early Morning
After a hearty breakfast, head to Plaza del Inmigrante. Admire the buildings surrounding the square and then walk west along Paseo de la Princesa, pausing to photograph the Raíces Fountain. If it’s a weekend, then browse the arts and crafts stalls set up here. Passing through the Puerta de San Juan, the old city gate, turn left for Plazuela de la Rogativa, and admire the fine view toward the harbor. Follow Calle Las Monjas east one block to view the Catedral de San Juan Baútista before following cobbled Calle del Cristo uphill to Plaza de San José. Just around the corner is the Museo Pablo Casals, dedicated to the world famous cellist. Stop to take a coffee break at one of the plaza’s many cafés and indulge in some leisurely people-watching.
Mid-Morning
Refreshed, trace your step back to Parque de Beneficencia and turn left. The huge Neo-Classical building ahead houses the Instituto de Cultura Puertorriqueña. Call in to see its eclectic exhibits, including the fascinating pre-Columbian artefacts, before continuing north across the wide open Calle del Morro to the Fortaleza San Felipe del Morro. This massive fortress will take the better part of an hour to explore before the airy stroll back to the Plaza de San José area for lunch.
Best of the Rest
1. Instituto de Cultura Puertorriquena
This cultural institute has peaceful courtyards and displays of Taíno artifacts, religious icons, and contemporary art (for further details see Instituto de Cultura Puertorriqueña).
2. Plaza de Armas
A former military parade ground, Plaza de Armas is surrounded by exquisite buildings in elegant styles. It is a social gathering spot by day.
3. Bacardi Rum Distillery
Guided tours of the world’s largest rum factory end with a demonstration on mixing cocktails.Carretera 888 Km 2.6, Cataño • 787 788 8400 • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun
4. Catedral de San Juan Bautista
This 19th-century Neo-Classical structure features lovely ceiling frescoes and a marble mausoleum containing the remains of Ponce de León (for further details see Catedral de San Juan Baútista).
5. Playa Isla Verde
The main draws of this beach are its deluxe hotels, casinos, and nightclubs, especially the El San Juan Hotel & Casino.
6. Luis A. Ferre Science Park
This park has a zoo, museums, a planetarium, and a lake with boats.Carretera 167, Bayamón • 787 740 6868 • Open 9am– 4pm Wed–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat–Sun • Adm
7. Museo Pablo Casals
This small museum is full of memorabilia exploring the life of Spanish cellist Pablo Casals.Calle San Sebastián 101, San Juan • 787 723 9185 • Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat • Adm
8. Puerta de Tierra
This former buffer zone between Old San Juan and Condado has some fine buildings, such as the Neo-Classical El Capitolio (Capital Building) and the Art Deco Normandie Hotel, which resembles an ocean liner.
Capitolio • Av Muñoz Rivera • 787 721 6040 • open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri • guided tours by appointment
9. Parque de las Palomas
This small plaza, named for the pigeons that flock here, overlooks Paseo de la Princesa and San Juan harbor. Sit on one of the benches to take in the view.Calle del Cristo
10. Hotel El Convento
A fine hotel that was once a convent and later a brothel, El Convento has a good restaurant and rooftop bar.
Nightlife
1. Small Bar
Small in size but huge on variety, this cool little bar offers a large selection of craft beers and international music.Av Ashford, San Juan • 787 402 2954 • Adm
2. Club Brava
Stylish locals line up to enter this chic lounge-disco, where DJs spin a mix of Latin and international sounds.El San Juan Hotel, Av Isla Verde 6063 • 787 791 2781 • Open 10pm–3am Thu–Sat • Adm
3. Blue Bar
Drawing a mix of young and old, this lobby bar buzzes on Saturday nights.El San Juan Resort & Casino, Av Isla Verde 6063 • 787 791 1000 • Open 6pm–3am
4. Mist
Relax on leather loungers at this rooftop bar, which serves fancy cocktails, plays world music, and has sensational views.Water & Beach Club Hotel, 2 Tartak St • 787 728 3666 • Open 7–1am Mon–Thu, 7–3am Fri & Sat
5. La Factoria
Enjoy amazing drinks and tapas at La Factoria.Calle San Sebastian #148 • 787 412 4251 • Open 6:30pm–4am Mon–Thu & 4pm–4am Fri–Sun
6. Luis A. Ferre Performing Arts Center
Also known as Bellas Artes, this complex boasts four theaters and hosts everything from stand-up comedy to ballet. The Puerto Rico Symphony Orchestra performs in the 1,880-plus capacity Festival Hall.Av Ponce de León, Santurce • 787 724 4747 • Adm
7. Oceano
Sophistication and glamor characterize this magical place that offers a wide range of cocktails.2 Vendig St, Condado • 787 724 6300 • Open noon–midnight Tue, Wed & Sun (until 2am Thu, 3am Fri & Sat)
8. Nuyorican Cafe
Salsa lovers must visit this exciting venue for its sizzling hot live music.San Francisco St 312, San Juan • 787 977 1276 • Open 7pm–late daily
9. La Piazza DiZucchero
With music from some of the best DJs, you can dance the night away at this stylish lounge.Ashford Av 1210, Condado • 787 946 0835 • Open 10pm–5am Thu–Sat
10. El Patio de Sam
This popular café-bar often plays live music.Calle San Sebastián 102 • 787 723 1149 • Open 11am–11pm Sun–Thu, 11am–2am Fri–Sat
