North Coast
West of San Juan, the Island’s palm-studded north shore is lined with glorious beaches, the most beautiful of which are found around Dorado. Scenic mountains that have been eroded into a dramatic karst landscape of rugged gorges, spectacular caves, and sculpted rock formations called mogotes rise inland from the narrow coastal plain. This rugged scenery is at its finest around the Arecibo Observatory – the world’s largest radio telescope – and nearby Parque de las Cavernas del Río Camuy. Several forest preserves tempt hikers, and one of the nation’s most impressive ceremonial sites can be explored at Caguana. The mountain drive to reach it leads through several villages renowned for arts and crafts.
1. Parque de las Cavernas del Rio Camuy
The third-largest cave system in the world, this vast underground complex consists of hundreds of caverns. Fascinating guided tours begin and end with a tram ride and lead through the largest cave of all, which is full of weird and wonderful dripstone formations. Paths run alongside an underground river to the base of an enormous sinkhole. Visitors come away with an appreciation of the natural processes that have shaped this rugged region (for further details see Parque de las Cavernas del Río Camuy).
2. Dorado
This town is best known for its golden beaches lined with palm trees – remnants of a former coconut plantation. The town’s Hyatt Hacienda del Mar boasts some of the best stretches of beach, and golfers can tee off at the resort’s three championship golf courses. The main square, Plaza de Recreo, has a monument honoring the island’s ethnic diversity.
Hyatt Hacienda del Mar • Carretera 693 Km 12.8 • 787 796 3000 • www.hyatthaciendadelmar.hyatt.com
3. Arecibo Observatory
Resembling a James Bond movie set (in fact, it appeared in GoldenEye), the world’s largest radio telescope comprises a 1,000 ft (305 m) wide spherical bowl made of 40,000 perforated aluminum panels and suspended across a huge limestone sinkhole. A triangular platform hanging 1,300 ft (400 m) above the dish houses receivers that monitor emissions, such as radio waves, from the earth’s outer atmosphere to sources at the outer limits of the universe. The Angel Ramos Foundation Visitor Center provides audiovisual displays and interactive exhibits on the observatory, and on atmospheric and space sciences in general.Carretera 625 Final • 787 878 2612 • Open 9am–4pm (closed Mon & Tue Jan 16–May 31 & Aug 1–Dec 14) • Adm • www.naic.edu
4. Arecibo
Founded in 1616, this large coastal town is today a major manufacturing center that retains many wooden colonial structures, notably on Calle Alejandro Salicrup. The delightful Plaza Luis Muñoz Rivera is worth visiting for its 19th-century Neo-Classical cathedral and city hall, but most intriguing is the Logia Tanamá, a grandiose Romanesque building that serves as a Masonic hall and is fronted by an impressive bronze statue of a leaping dolphin.
5. Karst Country
Covering a sixth of the island, this distinctive landscape of sheer-sided mogotes (rock formations) and plunging canyons is the remnant of a great limestone plateau that rose from the sea in the Jurassic era and has since been worn away by water. The region is stippled with free-standing formations rising 985 ft (300 m) or more, and riddled with caverns and sinkholes.
6. Parque Ceremonial Indigena Caguana
A great starting point for learning about the island’s indigenous culture, Caguana was one of the most important Taíno ceremonial sites in the Caribbean. The site, which was first excavated in 1915, features 12 bateyes (ancient ball courts) walled by slabs etched with petroglyphs, including the Mujer de Caguana – a female fertility figure with legs outspread. Taíno ceramics and other artifacts are displayed in a tiny museum here.Carretera 111 Km 12.3, Utuado • 787 894 7325 • Open 8:30am–4:20pm • Adm
7. Playa de Jobos
Prime surf washes ashore at this windswept beach favored by surfers. Its laid-back appeal is enhanced by its many simple seafood restaurants and bars. You can watch surfers pass by the rugged limestone headland, Punta Jacinto, where spray blasts from a blowhole. The snorkeling is good in sheltered coves, and horseback rides on the beach add further thrills.
8. Bosque Estatal de Guajataca
This 6-sq mile (15-sq km) preserve is laced with close to 28 miles (44 km) of trails that weave through karst terrain. Before you begin your hike, pick up a map at the ranger station, from where a short trail leads to a mirador (lookout tower). Follow the more challenging 8-mile (13-km) Sendero Cabralla to Lago de Guajataca, a peaceful reservoir where you can rent a boat and fish for bass.Carretera 446 Km 10, Guajataca • 787 872 1045 • Open 8am–5pm
9. Lares
The scenic drive to reach Lares is reason enough to visit this small mountain town, which is famous for El Grito de Lares (The Cry of Lares), the nationalist uprising that launched the island’s independence movement. A 19th-century cathedral stands over Plaza de la Revolución, but the square’s most popular building is the Heladería de Lares, where you can buy tropical fruit-flavored ice creams.
Heladería de Lares • Calle Lecaroz, Lares • 787 897 3290
10. Bosque Estatal Cambalache
This forest preserve is ideal for hiking and mountain biking with just 4 miles (6 km) of level trails among royal palms, teak, and trees endemic to the island, such as matabuey. The karst scenery is spectacular, with trails winding along canyon bottoms at the base of soaring mogotes. Bird-watchers can spot endemic species such as the Puerto Rican bullfinch. Bats are numerous and swarm out of their caves at sunset.Carretera 682 Km 6.6 • 787 881 1004 • Open 9am–4pm
El Grito de Lares
The island’s movement for independence from Spain was initiated in September 1868 when about 600 islanders gathered at an estate near Lares to launch an insurrection and announce a provincial government. The rebellion – The Cry of Lares – was quickly suppressed by Spanish authorities. Nonetheless, Spain subsequently granted Puerto Rico liberal reforms that included representation in the Spanish Cortes (parliament).
A Drive Through Karst Country
Morning
Begin your drive at the coastal town of Arecibo. After exploring the city’s main sites, head south along Carretera 129, and then follow the signs that lead uphill to the Arecibo Observatory. After two hours of exploring the visitor center and admiring the radio telescope and the spectacular setting here, drive down south toward the Parque Ceremonial Indígena Caguana. About one hour is required to explore this fascinating Taíno ceremonial site. Then follow Carretera 111 west to the charming mountain town of Lares where you can have lunch. Try the tropical fruit-flavored ice cream at Heladería de Lares.
Afternoon
Continue your drive northward on Carretera 129 for Parque de Las Cavernas del Río Camuy, where you can take a guided excursion into the caverns; it can be cool, and the walkways are slippery, so carry along a sweater and wear shoes with good grip. Then press on westward on Carretera 119 for Lago de Guajataca, a man-made lake, and the Bosque Estatal de Guajataca – you can stop here for a short hike or fish for bass. Don’t forget to keep an eye on the road as you take in the wonderful karst scenery along Carretera 113. Pass through the town of Quebradillas and continue northwest to Playa de Jobos. This beach is a good place to surf. You can also sample some local cuisine at Karambola Ocean View.
Best of the Rest
1. Dia de los Santos Inocentes
Held every year since 1823 in Hatillo, the “Day of the Holy Innocents” features locals in fancy costumes and masks.Dec 28
2. Hacienda Esperanza
This sugar estate displays old steam machinery and is surrounded by a wildlife refuge.Carretera 616 Km 4 • 787 722 5844 • Guided tours by appointment
3. Arecibo Lighthouse & Historical Park
Children will love this beachfront facility, with its playground, mini-zoo, aquarium, and “Pirate Boardwalk”.Carretera 655, Arecibo • 787 880 7540 • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat–Sun • Adm • www.arecibolighthouse.com
4. Punta Borinquen
The beaches here offer excellent scuba diving, and there is a golf course.
Punta Borinquen Golf and Country Club • Carretera 107, Ramey Base, Aguadilla • 787 890 2897
5. Isla Desecheo
The coral reefs and underwater grottoes surrounding this uninhabited island are very popular dive sites.
6. Isabela
Famous for lace production, this small town hosts the Festival del Tejido (Lace Festival) each May.
7. Playa Crash Boat
This popular surfers’ beach, which is used by local fishermen, is named for the rescue boats that set out to save Ramey Air Force Base pilots who came down at sea.
8. Reserva Natural Laguna Tortuguero
Spot migratory waterfowl, endemic birds, and caimans – small reptiles – at this coastal wetland preserve. A visitors’ center has interesting wildlife exhibits.Carretera 687 Km 1.2 • Open 6am–5pm Wed–Sun
9. Balneario Cerro Gordo
Run by the local municipality, this popular beach has showers, bathrooms, and shacks serving good food. It gets lively on weekends and holidays when Puerto Rican families flock here.
10. La Cueva del Indio
The Indian Cave, which has been hewn out of coastal cliffs, displays superb examples of Taíno petroglyphs. Don’t miss the natural bridge formation nearby. Wear sturdy shoes for the craggy limestone underfoot.Carretera 681 Km 7.8
