The Cordillera
Encompassing the mountain spine that runs the length of Puerto Rico, the Cordillera is accessed by a maze of winding roads that form the Ruta Panorámica. This well-signed route runs past historic plantation homes, lush forest preserves, and pretty lakes, and boasts fabulous views. Although the area’s old-fashioned country way of life has given way to modernity, the pace here remains sleepy, enhancing the pleasure of a leisurely drive. The towns of Orocovis and Utuado are famous for their artisans, while Jayuya is a center of ancient Taíno culture. Although accommodations are few, Hacienda Gripiñas, a historic coffee estate, makes a great base for hiking up Cerro Punta, the island’s highest peak. To the west lies Maricao, a center of coffee-production renowned for its annual coffee festival.
1. Reserva Forestal Carite
Combining primary and secondary forests, this preserve protects an important watershed in the Sierra de Cayey range. Feathery groves of bamboo and mist-shrouded dwarf forest here are festooned with mosses. This lush world entices with roadside picnic sites and 25 miles (40 km) of trails that are good for hikes and spotting around 50 species of birds, including the endangered endemic mountain hawk. Its proximity to San Juan draws crowds on weekends.
Carretera 184 Km 27.5 • 787 747 4545 • Open 8am–5pm
2. Aibonito
At 2,400 ft (730 m) above sea level, this is the island’s highest town. It is surrounded by alpine pastures – hence its nickname, “Switzerland of Puerto Rico” – and flower-growing is a major industry here. The Neo-Classical Iglesia San José (1897) graces the town’s main square and features a gold-leafed wooden altar. The best time to visit is between late June and early July, during the flower festival, when Aibonito is ablaze with anthuriums, begonias, orchids, carnations, and roses.
3. Orocovis
This town is famous for its wood-carvers who produce santos. Visit the tiny Museo Orocoveño, which honors the craft of saint-carving and also exhibits Taíno artifacts. South of town, the Mirador Orocovis-Villalba is a lookout tower with stunning views of the coast.
Museo Orocoveño • Carretera 155 • 787 455 4217 • by appointment
4. Barranquitas
This pretty town is the birthplace of Luis Muñoz Rivera and his son Luis Muñoz Marín. The elder’s home, Casa Muñoz Rivera, is now an interesting museum. The Baroque Iglesia San Antonio de Padua, standing over the town’s plaza, has a noteworthy arched ceiling and fine stained-glass windows.
Casa Muñoz Rivera • 787 857 0230 • open 8:30am–4:20pm
5. Hacienda Gripinas
This former coffee estate, built in 1863, enjoys a magnificent setting at a 3,280-ft (1,000-m) elevation, at the base of Cerro Punta. Hikers will love this delightful base for exploring the mountains. The plantation home is now a parador that offers guided hiking excursions, and coffee grown on the estate is served in the charming restaurant here. Evoking the atmosphere of yesteryear, this farm-hotel is worth a visit for a meal, even if you don’t choose to stay.
6. Bosque Estatal Toro Negro
This forest preserve protects over 10 sq miles (28 sq km) of rain-drenched cloudforest, whose waters feed tumultuous rivers and the sierra palms that line the roadside. Trails penetrate the forest from the Doña Juana Recreation Center, where you can pick up area maps. Coquí frogs abound, and the endangered Puerto Rican parrot is among the 30 or so bird species to be seen while hiking. Anglers with permits can fish for bass in the numerous lakes.
Doña Juana Recreation Center • Carretera 143 Km 32.4 • 787 999 2200 • open 7:30am–4:30pm
7. Utuado
This peaceful town was an important 19th-century center for coffee production, which funded the building of the Neo-Classical Iglesia San Miguel Arcangel, completed in 1878, on the main square. Nearby Lago Caonillas, a serene lake, is a popular weekend escape for city folk seeking peace in the mountains. Reach it via the scenic Carretera 140. En route, stop off at the studio-home of artist couple Miguel and Olga Guzman.
Studio of Miguel & Olga Guzman • Carretera 140 Km 17.7 • 787 894 8765 • by appointment
8. Cerro Punta
At 4,390 ft (1,338 m), this is the tallest peak on the island. It features a mirador (lookout tower) from which to enjoy spectacular 360-degree vistas. The steep and narrow access road off Carretera 143 is daunting; park in the gravel lot at the base and hike the 656-ft (200-m) path to the top. The peak is studded with unsightly radio towers, but remains attractive thanks to an abundance of hibiscus bushes.Carretera 143 Km 16.5
9. La Ruta Panoramica
A scenic route running across the island’s mountainous interior, the Ruta Panorámica comprises dozens of roads spanning 166 miles (266 km) between the towns of Yabucoa and Mayagüez. Although convoluted, and with many junctions, the route is well-marked with brown “La Ruta” signs as it dips and rises and twirls through the spectacular landscape. Allow two days to cover the route end to end. You can enjoy simple meals and stock up on snacks at roadside colmados along the way.
10. Maricao
This pleasant town on the western flanks of the cordillera is nestled in the valley of the Río Maricao and surrounded by glossy coffee bushes that carpet the hillsides like green corduroy. Time your visit for mid-February and the annual Festival de la Cosecha del Café (coffee festival), when the town bursts into colorful life with folkloric dancing. Allow time for an intriguing side-trip to the local fish hatchery (Vivero de Peces Maricao), where fish are raised to stock the island’s lakes.
Maricao Fish Hatchery • Carretera 410 Km 1.7 • 787 838 3710 • open 8:30–11:30am & 1:30–3:30pm Thu–Sun
Coffee
Puerto Rico’s gourmet coffee, introduced to the region by Corsican immigrants in the early 1800s, is considered one of the best in the world. The cool, sun-kissed mountains of the south-west boast well-drained, fertile soils – perfect conditions for coffee production. Puerto Rico produces and exports millions of pounds (kilos) of coffee beans.
Scenic Drive on La Ruta Panoramica
Day One
Begin at Yabucoa, in the southeast of the island, and head west along Carretera 182 to 181. From here, follow the “La Ruta” signs as you climb up into the Sierra de Cayey and through Reserva Forestal Carite, before dropping down to Cayey. Crossing the highway, turn left onto Carretera 1. The route ascends to Aibonito – explore the town center before continuing north to Barranquitas, with a diversion along Carretera 725 to Cañon de San Cristóbal on the way. Explore the sites at Barranquitas, then head west along Carretera 143 to Bosque Estatal Toro Negro. Turn north onto Carretera 149 to see the Salto de Don Juan Cascade, which can be viewed from the road. A short distance further, turn left onto Carretera 144 for Hacienda Gripiñas and stay overnight.
Day Two
Retrace your route to Carretera 143, stopping to visit the Museo Indígena Cemí outside Jayuya. Back on Carretera 143, head west to Cerro Punta. Hike the access path for good views, then continue along La Ruta to Adjuntas – exit the town on Carretera 518. A web of well-signed, scenic roads leads to Reserva Forestal Maricao, where you can park at trailheads and hike. Descend on Carretera 120 to visit Maricao before ending your trip at Parador Hacienda Juanita, a charming old coffee estate.
Best of the Rest
1. Cayey
This town, a center of tobacco production, is home to a campus of the University of Puerto Rico. The Museo de Arte Dr. Pío López Martínez on the campus displays works by local artists.
Museo de Arte Dr. Pío López Martínez • 787 738 2161 ext 2209 • open 8am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat–Sun
2. Cerro Maravilla
Topped by communications towers, this mountain has two stone crosses marking the site where two independentistas were murdered by police on July 25, 1978.Carretera 577, off Carretera 143
3. Canon de San Cristobal
Although difficult to find (ask for directions), this canyon is the deepest gorge in Puerto Rico and features breathtaking cascades. Go on a guided hike.
Carretera 725 Km 5.1, Aibonito
San Cristóbal Hiking Tour • 787 857 2094
4. Jayuya
This town hosts the Festival Indígena each November to celebrate ancient indigenous culture. The Museo Casa Canales regales the region’s history.
Museo Casa Canales • Carretera 144 Km 9.2 • 787 828 4618 • open 9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri • Adm
6. Museo Indigena Cemi
Visit this museum to see Taíno exhibits, petroglyphs, and artifacts from local archaeological sites.Carretera 144 Km 9.3 • 787 828 1241 • Open 9am–4pm • Adm
7. Piedra Escrita
This huge rock beside the Río Saliente is engraved with pre-Columbian petroglyphs and can be viewed from a tower.Piedra Escrita, Carretera 144 Km 2.3
8. Adjuntas
A town in the Valley of the Sleeping Giant, named for a nearby mountain formation, Adjuntas is famous for its citron, which is used in preserves.
9. Reserva Forestal Maricao
Admire the beauty of this forest preserve from a hiking trail or from the four-story Torre de Piedra lookout tower on the main highway.
Visitor Center • Carretera 120 Km 16.2 • Open 7am–2:30pm Mon–Fri, 8am–3:30pm Sat–Sun
Torre de Piedra • 8am–4pm
10. Parador Hacienda Juanita
The most beautiful of the old haciendas in Puerto Rico welcomes day visitors. The estate still produces coffee.
