As a Sailor, whether you eventually strike for boatswain’s mate or logistics specialist, there are certain basic skills of seamanship you will need to know or at least be familiar with. Few Sailors can say they’ve never handled a line or tied a knot. All ships, whether they are patrol craft or aircraft carriers, use mooring lines to secure themselves to piers, anchors to hold them in place where there are no piers, and many other forms of equipment and skills that are unique but essential to ships and boats. As a Sailor, you will likely find yourself as part of boat crew, as a boat passenger, or using boats in some other fashion.
MARLINESPIKE SEAMANSHIP
The art of working with line or rope is called “marlinespike seamanship” or, sometimes, “marlinespiking.” The name comes from a hand-held, spike-like tool used in working with wire rope, which is called a “marlinespike.”
It is important to learn the special terminology associated with marlinespike seamanship, primarily because you want to avoid confusion. But there is a good secondary reason as well. There are certain measures of professionalism in the Navy that have no official status and have nothing to do with getting you promoted, but are used to size you up as a true Sailor rather than a landlubber. If you want to be recognized as a true Navy professional—to earn the respect of those more experienced than you—you should make an effort to think, act, and speak like a Sailor. This means you should use twenty-four-hour time, call a deck a deck (and not a floor), and know the difference between rope and line.
Lines, Ropes, and Wires
In the Navy, the term “rope” refers to both fiber and wire. Fiber ropes include those made of such natural materials as manila and hemp and those made of synthetic materials such as nylon. Here is the tricky part: Fiber rope is called “rope” only as long as it is still in its original coil. Once a piece has been cut to be used for some purpose (such as mooring or heaving), it is then called a “line.” If you want to be considered a novice, call a line a rope. Rope made of wire (or a combination of wire and fiber) is usually called “wire rope” or simply “wire,” even if it has been cut from its original coil and is being used for some specific purpose. There are some exceptions. The lifelines on ships, for example, are nearly always made of wire. You are probably safe if you forget about the word “rope” and use the words “line” and “wire.”
What many would call a “loop” in a line is called a bight in the Navy. “Looping” a line around an object is called taking a turn or taking a round turn. A permanent loop on the end of a line is called an eye. Lines do not “break” in the Navy, they part. The free end of a length of line is called the bitter end.
Construction of a fiber line starts with small fibers, which are twisted until they form larger pieces called “yarns.” Then the yarns are twisted in the opposite direction to form “strands,” after which they are twisted in the original direction to become a line. The direction of this final twisting determines the “lay” of the line. Line can be either three- or four-strand, though three-strand is most common in the Navy. Nearly all three-strand line used in Navy ships is what we call “right-laid,” meaning that the strands are twisted to the right. It is important to know this because you should always coil a line in the direction of its lay. For example, right-laid line should always be coiled in right-hand (clockwise) turns. This will prevent kinking and extend the life of the line.
Lines can also be formed by a different process called “braiding.” Braided lines have certain advantages over twisted ones. They will not kink and will not flex open to admit dirt or abrasives. The construction of some, however, makes it impossible to inspect the inner yarns for damage. The more common braided lines are hollow braided, stuffer braided, solid braided, and double braided.
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[12.1] The components of a line
FIBER LINES
Synthetic- and natural-fiber lines each have certain advantages and disadvantages. The common synthetic fibers—nylon, polyester (Dacron), polypropylene, and polyethylene (in descending order of strength)—ranging in size from one-eighth-inch to twelve inches in circumference, are generally stronger than natural fibers and not subject to rot. Nylon is more than twice as strong as manila, the most common natural fiber; it lasts five times as long and will stand seven times the shock load. Dacron gets stronger when wet, and polypropylene is so light it floats, both of which are obvious advantages in a marine environment. Most ships (smaller decks) use four-strand Aramid nylon line, due to its strength and no snap back.
The biggest disadvantages of synthetic line when compared to natural-fiber line is that synthetics stretch under heavy loads and it is more difficult to tell when they are going to part. Another disadvantage of synthetic line is that it does not hold knots as well as natural fibers. Some knots that are good for securing natural fibers, such as the square knot, are not adequate for synthetic materials. The bowline is one knot known to offer reasonable security when bending together or securing synthetic line.
Fiber lines are identified by their circumference and type; for example, “two-inch manila” or “three-inch nylon.” Lines larger in circumference than five inches are called hawsers. Line that is less than one inch in circumference is usually called small stuff.
Synthetic-Fiber Lines. Before you use new three-strand synthetic, it should be faked down—or laid down in single turns—on deck and allowed to relax for twenty-four hours. The period can be shortened to about two hours by hosing down the line with freshwater.
When it is wet, synthetic line shrinks slightly but does not swell or stiffen. When tension is applied to the line, water squeezes out; under working loads, it appears as vapor.
Oil and grease do not cause synthetics to deteriorate, but they make them slippery. When this happens, the line should be scrubbed down. Spots may be removed by cleaning the line with light oils such as kerosene or diesel oil.
Sailors who work with natural-fiber line soon learn how to judge tension by the sound the line makes. Unfortunately, although synthetic line under heavy strain thins down considerably, it gives no audible indication of stress—even when it is about to part. For this reason, a tattletale line should be attached to synthetic line when it is subjected to loads that may exceed its safe working load. A tattletale line is a piece of smaller natural fiber line that is attached to a synthetic line at two carefully measured points so that it droops down. As the synthetic line stretches, the droop in the tattletale will get less and less. When the tattletale has become taut and is lying parallel to the synthetic line, you will know that the line is in danger of parting.
Natural-Fiber Lines. Because of their tendency to retain water and to rot, special care and handling are required when using natural-fiber lines.
Coils of line should always be stowed on shelves or platforms clear of the deck. They should never be covered in such a way that may prevent the evaporation of moisture.
Whenever possible, a wet line should be dried before stowing. If line must be stowed wet, it should be laid up on gratings in long fakes or suspended in some other way so that it will dry as quickly as possible. It should never be covered before it is dry.
To prevent cutting or breaking of the outer fibers, keep lines from rubbing against other objects whenever possible, particularly sharp or jagged ones. Avoid dragging line over ground where it can pick up dirt and other particles; these can work their way into the line and weaken the line by cutting the inner strands.
Under normal working conditions, the strength of line exposed to the elements deteriorates about 30 percent in two years. Lines should be inspected frequently for deterioration. Open the lay by twisting in the opposite direction and inspect the fibers. A white powdery residue indicates internal wear. After particularly heavy use, inspect the inside threads to see if all or a portion of the fibers are broken.
WIRE ROPE
The construction of wire rope is similar to that of fiber lines. Wire rope consists of individual wires made of steel or other metal, in various sizes, laid together to form strands. The number of wires in a strand varies according to the purpose for which the rope is intended. A number of strands are laid together to form the wire rope itself. Wire rope is designated by the number of strands per rope and the number of wires per strand. Thus, a 6 by 19 rope has 6 strands with a total of 19 wires per strand.
Wire rope made up of a large number of small wires is flexible, but small wires break so easily that the rope is damaged by external abrasion. Wire rope made up of a smaller number of larger wires is more resistant to abrasion, but less flexible.
Never pull a kink out of a wire rope by putting strain on either end. As soon as you notice a kink, uncross the ends by pushing them apart; this reverses the process that started the kink. Then turn the bent portion over, place it on your knee or some firm object, and push down until the kink starts to straighten out somewhat. Then lay it on a flat surface and pound it smooth with a wooden mallet.
Damage to a wire rope is indicated by the presence of what are called “fishhooks.” These occur when individual wires break and bend back. If several occur near each other or along the rope’s length, it is an indication that the wire rope is less reliable and may require replacement. Because of these “fishhooks,” always wear gloves when handling wire.
You should inspect wire rope frequently, checking for fishhooks, kinks, and worn spots. Worn spots show up as shiny flattened surfaces. A wire rope with three broken wires in a strand is no longer useable.
Wire rope should never be stored in places where acid is or has been kept. Prior to storage, wire rope should be cleaned and lubricated.
Working with Line
Certain skills and practices, some of them simple and others more complicated, must be learned in order to work with line. The experts at working with line are the boatswain’s mates, but every Sailor should be familiar with some of these skills.
STOWING LINE FOR READY USE
Once a line has been removed from the coil, it may be prepared for storage or ready use, either by winding on a reel or in one of the following ways:
Coiling down. Lay the line down in circles, roughly one on top of the other. Right-laid line is always coiled down right-handed, or clockwise. When a line has been coiled down, the end that went down last on top is ready to run off. If you try to walk away with the bottom end, the line will foul up. If for some reason the bottom end must go out first, turn the entire coil upside down to free it for running.
Faking down. The line is laid down as in coiling down, except that it is laid out in long, flat bights, one alongside the other, instead of in a round coil. A faked down line runs more easily than a coiled line.
Flemishing down. Coil the line down first, then wind it tight from the bottom end, counterclockwise, bringing it tighter together so that it forms a close circular mat. This method of stowing a line not only keeps it ready for use, it looks good.
SECURING ENDS
Never leave the end of a line without what is called a whipping. This can be a piece of small stuff tied to the end of the line or a piece of tape wrapped around it to prevent the end of the line from unraveling. A good method to use for nylon line is to wrap a piece of tape around the end, leaving the tufted end of the strands exposed. You should then singe the exposed strands, causing them to melt together.
JOINING LINES TOGETHER WITH KNOTS, BENDS, AND HITCHES
The most obvious method of joining lines together is to tie them with a knot. But “bends” and “hitches” are also used for specific purposes because of the advantages they provide.
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[12.2] Different methods of stowing line
To a Sailor, a knot in a line usually means the line is tied to itself. When you tie two lines together, you have formed a bend. When you tie a piece of line to some other object, it is called a hitch. In many cases, these functions may overlap, so these terms are not absolute. One guiding principle is that knots are usually meant to be permanent and are therefore more difficult to untie than are bends and hitches.
There are big, thick books describing the many varieties of knots, bends, and hitches, but if you are comfortable with just a few, you will be able to take care of virtually any common situation. If you learn no others, be sure that you can at least tie a square knot (also called a reef knot) and a bowline. Others will prove useful in special situations, such as the clove hitch (used to fasten a line to an object—a good example would be a cowboy securing the reins of his horse to a hitching post), figure eight (used to put a temporary end to a line), catspaw (secures a cargo sling to a hook), timber hitch (good for lifting or securing logs, planks, and other long, rough-surfaced objects), and carrick bend (used to bend two hawsers together). The more knots, bends, and hitches you know, the better you will be able to use line to your advantage in a wide variety of situations.
![[12.3] Tying the square...](../images/f0275-01.jpg)
![[12.4] Tying a bowline...](../images/f0275-02.jpg)
Sometimes it is useful to secure two lines together side by side. This is accomplished by using a variety of what are called seizings.
When two lines are to be joined end to end in such a way as to merge them into one, they are spliced. A line can also be bent on itself and spliced to form a permanent loop on the end of the line or can be spliced back into itself (called a back splice) to secure an end to keep it from unraveling. If properly done, splicing does not weaken the line. A splice between two lines will run through, or over, another object more easily than a knot.
Ornamental knots are used to give your ship a smart nautical appearance and to promote safety and habitability. Just as with practical knots, bends, and hitches, there are virtual encyclopedias of ornamental work. Turk’s heads, fox and geese, and sennits are just a few of the many forms of ornamental knots you may encounter during your time in the Navy.
Working with Wire Rope
The greater strength of wire rope as compared to fiber line is offset somewhat by its lesser flexibility and its tendency to rust if conditions are not right. Wire rope that is frequently exposed to weather or hard use requires some extra measures of protection to prolong its service life:
Worming. The lay of the rope is followed between the strands with tarred small stuff. This keeps moisture from penetrating the interior of the rope and fills out the rope, giving it a smooth surface ready for parceling and serving.
Parceling. This is accomplished by wrapping the rope spirally with long narrow strips of canvas, following the lay of the rope and overlapping turns to shed moisture.
Serving. The final step in preserving wire rope is accomplished by wrapping small stuff snugly over the parceling, pulling each turn as taut as possible so that the whole forms a stiff protecting cover for the rope. A tool called a serving mallet is used for passing the turns in serving, and each turn is pulled taut by the leverage of the handle.
Remember this poetic rule:
Worm and parcel with the lay,
Turn and serve the other way.
MOORING
Mooring is defined as securing a ship to a pier, to another ship, to a mooring buoy, or by anchoring. In order to maximize pier space, Navy ships are also frequently moored to other ships, creating a nest of ships side by side alongside a pier or at an anchorage. When this is done alongside a pier, the ship closer to the pier is said to be “inboard” of the other(s), and ships farther from the pier are “outboard.”
Mooring to a Pier
In order to properly moor a ship to a pier, certain standardized procedures make the operation efficient, and a knowledge of the appropriate terminology is essential. Standard commands, the deck fittings, and the lines themselves all are referred to in precise nautical terms that must be understood by Sailors in order to take part in the operation or to stand watches properly once a ship is moored.
In order to moor a ship properly, you will need to be able to identify certain items of equipment that are unique to ships. The lines used to secure the ship to the pier are called—no surprise—mooring lines. Each line is given its own unique name to make references to it clear and avoid confusion. Mooring line configurations and terms are explained in TAB 12-A: Mooring Line Configurations and Terms.
A mooring line will do no good without the necessary fittings on the ship and on the pier to which the mooring lines are secured. A cleat consists of a pair of projecting horns for belaying (securing) a line. Bitts are cylindrical shapes of cast iron or steel arranged in pairs on the ship’s deck and on the pier, which are also used to belay lines. A bollard is a heavy cylindrical object with a bulbous top and a horn that is found on piers but not on ships. The eye or bight of a mooring line can be passed over it, and because of the bollard’s design, the line will not slip off. A chock is different from the other fittings so far mentioned because lines are not secured to it but instead are passed through. Chocks come in three varieties—open, closed, and roller—and are used to feed lines in the direction you want, thereby increasing efficiency. A typical mooring configuration would have lines running from bitts aboard ship, through chocks, to a bollard (or a cleat or another set of bitts) on the pier.
To protect the sides of your ship from rubbing or banging against a pier (or against another ship if you are moored next to one), fenders and camels are used. Fenders are shock absorbers of various types (such as rubber shapes or clusters of line) suspended from the ship or pier to serve as cushions between them. Camels serve the same purpose, but instead of being suspended from the deck, they float in the water. Besides protecting the ship and pier from contacting each other, camels are used to keep aircraft carriers farther away from the pier because of their overhanging flight deck and elevators. If you moored an aircraft carrier to a pier without camels to hold it off, the elevators would, in many instances, lower right onto the pier or dangerously close to it.
![[12.5] Cleats, bitts, and...](../images/f0278-01.jpg)
To prevent rats from coming aboard your ship by using your mooring lines as convenient pathways, circular metal discs called rat guards are lashed to the mooring lines.
During the mooring process, a light line called a messenger is first sent over. Then, with the larger mooring line itself attached, it is hauled in. To help get the messenger across from the ship to the pier, a heaving line, bolo, or line-throwing gun is used, depending upon the distance of the ship from the pier. A heaving line is a light line with an orange rubber ball on the end; a bolo line is a nylon line with a padded lead weight or a monkey fist on it that is designed for throwing a greater distance by first twirling it in a circle to build up momentum before letting it go. A line-throwing gun is a modified rifle that can fire a special projectile with a line attached. It will reach farther than a heaving line or bolo but must be handled with a Sailor’s knowledge and care. It is dangerous to use, particularly when people are standing on the pier.
LINE-HANDLING COMMANDS
During the process of mooring a vessel to a pier or to another ship, it is vital that the conning officer be able to communicate efficiently with the line handlers. To make sure there is no confusion, commands that are commonly used in mooring operations have been standardized. This system can only be efficient if both the conning officer and the line handlers know what the various commands are and what they mean. See TAB 12-B: Line-Handling Commands for some examples.
Anchoring
Mooring to a pier is nearly always the preferred method for a ship to spend its time when not under way. When alongside a pier, personnel can come and go and supplies are easily brought aboard. Because there are not always piers available, and because there are occasions when it is preferable not to be alongside a pier (such as when political unrest in a region makes defending the ship from terrorist attack a priority), ships have the ability to use anchors as a mooring alternative.
When anchored, boats must be used for transporting personnel and supplies to and from the ship. A careful watch on the sea and weather conditions must be kept and care exercised to ensure that the ship does not begin to move out of its anchorage by dragging its anchor.
The equipment associated with anchoring is called ground tackle. This includes the anchors themselves, the chains used to attach them to the ship, the windlasses used to weigh anchor (lifting the anchor back on board), and a variety of other components, such as shackles, chain stoppers, anchor bars, and detachable links.
ANCHORS
An anchor is a type of hook that embeds itself into the sea bottom to hold a ship in place. While the anchor itself is an important component of the process, the chain is also vital. The amount of chain used is very important because too much chain will allow the ship to move around too much within its anchorage, and too little may allow the ship to move out of its anchorage by dragging its anchor. The shank is the body of the anchor and the flukes are the “teeth” (or hook part) that actually bite into the bottom. Some anchors have a stock, which is a kind of crossbar that prevents the anchor from flipping over once it is lying on the bottom.
![[12.6] A typical ground...](../images/f0280-01.jpg)
[12.6] A typical ground-tackle arrangement
Anchors are stored in a special tube in the ship’s bow called a hawsepipe. This tube also serves as a passage for the anchor chain, leading from the forecastle deck to the outer surface of the ship’s hull closer to the water. When not in use, the anchor chain is stowed in a large compartment called the chain locker.
There are various types of anchors and different methods of anchoring. The most common method of anchoring is to drop one or two anchors in relatively shallow water and pay out enough chain to ensure that the ship will stay in place. In a Mediterranean moor, a ship usually has the stern moored to a pier and an anchor out on each bow. A stream anchor, now seldom used, is a small anchor dropped off the stern or quarter of a ship to prevent her from swinging to a current.
Stockless anchors, because they do not have the crossbar to get in the way, are easy to stow and were adopted by the Navy for this reason, despite the fact that they do not have the holding power of old-fashioned anchors.
Mushroom anchors have a bowl-shaped head at the end of the shank rather than hooks. Once used in older submarines, they are not used much anymore. They are very useful for keeping buoys in place because, once planted (particularly in groups of three), they are not easily dislodged and are therefore very reliable.
Lightweight (LWT) anchors are used on some Navy ships and craft. The commercially made Danforth anchor is also used aboard some Navy craft and small boats. LWT-type anchors have a great deal of holding power for their weights, relying on their ability to dig in rather than their dead weight (as is the case for the stockless types). For example, in a sand bottom, 10,000-pound LWT anchors are designed to have a holding power approximately equal to the 22,500-pound standard Navy stockless. Sizes below 150 pounds are used as boat anchors.
Two-fluke/balanced-fluke anchors are used by surface ships and the newest submarines. They are normally housed in the bottom of the ship rather than in a hawsepipe on the forecastle. They are sometimes used in place of bow anchors, which could strike the large, bulbous sonar dome that bulges out from the bow beneath the water.
Although no longer used for practical purposes, old-fashioned anchors are the traditional anchors you see represented on officers’ and chief petty officers’ caps and on the rating badges, such as for boatswain’s mates. Also known as “Navy-type stock anchors,” they are commonly used as decorative items in front of Navy buildings and in various other locations.
![[12.7] Types of anchors...](../images/f0282-01.jpg)
CHAINS
Made of steel, Navy anchor chains vary in size according to the size of the ship and her anchors. Chain comes in 15-fathom lengths called shots. To understand this, you need to know that a fathom equals 6 feet. This means that a shot of anchor chain is 90 feet long. How many shots of chain a ship will carry depends upon the type of ship. Shots are connected to one another by detachable links. A special color-coding system is used to identify the various shots so that when the ship is anchored, you can tell, just by looking at visible chain on deck, how much chain has been payed out and is underwater. This system is explained in TAB 12-C: Anchor Chain Identification System.
OUTBOARD SWIVEL SHOTS
On most ships, standard outboard swivel shots, also called bending shots, attach the anchor chain to the anchor. They make it possible to stop off (secure) the anchor and break (unfasten) the chain between the windlass and the anchor so that the chain can then be attached to a mooring buoy (explained below). Outboard swivel shots consist of detachable links, regular chain links, a swivel, an end link, and a bending shackle (which actually attaches the anchor to the chain). Outboard swivel shots vary in length depending upon the size and type of ship but will not normally exceed 15 fathoms.
CHAIN STOPPERS
To hold the anchor securely in place when you are not actually in the process of letting it go or heaving it in, chain stoppers are attached to it. These consist of a shackle at one end (attaches the stopper to the deck of the ship) and a pelican hook (special hook that fits over a chain and can be securely closed—clamped on—or opened as needed) at the other. Several links of chain are included to give the stopper the desired length, and a turnbuckle is included that is used to adjust the stopper so that there is no slack in the chain once the stopper is attached. In other words, it makes the stopper taut. The stopper located closest to the hawsepipe is called the housing stopper. Other stoppers are called riding stoppers.
![[12.8] A chain stopper...](../images/f0284-01.jpg)
Stoppers are used for holding the anchor taut in the hawsepipe when not in use, for keeping the chain secure when the ship is riding to an anchor, and for holding an anchor in place when it is disconnected from the chain.
ANCHOR WINDLASS
The anchor windlass is used to hoist the bow anchor. Those ships with stern anchors have a similar device on the ship’s fantail called the stern-anchor winch.
On combatant ships, the anchor windlass is a vertical type with controls, including a friction-brake handwheel that can be used to slow down and actually stop the anchor from running out any farther once it has been let go (dropped). Below deck is the drive motor with its electric and hydraulic components. Above deck is a smooth cylinder called a capstan that can use the motor power to heave around on mooring lines. Beneath the capstan is a wildcat that is fitted with ridges called whelps, which engage the links of the chain and prevent it from slipping while heaving it in. The wildcat may be disengaged from the shaft so that it turns freely when the anchor is dropped; as mentioned before, it is fitted with a brake to stop the chain at the desired length (called scope).
On some ships, the anchor windlass is a horizontal type above deck, with two wildcats, one for each anchor.
MOORING SHACKLES
As mentioned earlier, if mooring buoys are available the anchor chain may be detached from its anchor (leaving the anchor secured in its hawsepipe by the stoppers) and then attached to a mooring buoy. Mooring shackles are used to make the attachment. Forged-steel mooring swivels with two links of regular chain at each end are inserted into the chain outboard of the hawsepipe to keep the chain from twisting as the ship swings.
![[12.9] Vertical-shaft anchor...](../images/f0285-01.jpg)
[12.9] Vertical-shaft anchor windlass
THE ANCHOR DETAIL
The anchor detail is normally headed by the first lieutenant, who is assisted by one or more experienced boatswain’s mates and a team of Sailors who perform the tasks associated with anchoring.
Whenever a ship is entering or leaving port, the anchor detail is set. This is true even if the ship has no intention of anchoring, because the ship’s anchors can be used in an emergency situation to keep the ship from getting into serious danger—they serve as a kind of emergency brake. For example, a ship coming into or leaving a port often must travel through fairly restricted waters (such as a narrow channel) or into a small mooring basin. If the ship should suddenly lose its propulsion power, it might coast or drift into danger (such as running aground or colliding with other ships moored or anchored nearby). If the anchors are ready for letting go, they can be dropped and used to hold the ship in place temporarily until the problem can be fixed and propulsion restored.
DROPPING THE ANCHOR
With the anchor detail manned, the ship is carefully navigated into position by the officer of the deck (OOD) and his or her special sea (navigational) detail. When the ship is nearing the anchorage the bridge tells the forecastle to “stand by.” Personnel on the forecastle will release all but one of the chain stoppers and the windlass brake so that the weight of the anchor is on the chain, which is being held by the one remaining stopper. When the ship is precisely in position, the bridge will tell the forecastle to let go the anchor. With everyone standing clear of the chain, a Sailor will knock the pelican hook on the stopper loose and, with a great roar, the anchor will plunge into the water and fall to the bottom. Allowing an anchor or its chain to run out using its own weight is called veering.
The Sailor controlling the windlass will set the brake soon after the anchor strikes bottom to prevent the chain from continuing to run and piling up. The OOD will normally back the ship to set the anchor (cause the flukes to dig into the bottom). Then the OOD will order the brake released on the windlass and will back the ship down some more to veer more chain until it is at the desired scope (length). Stoppers will then be set and the ship is anchored.
WEIGHING ANCHOR
When the ship is ready to get under way from its anchorage, the sea and anchor details are set and the forecastle detail will set the brake on the windlass and remove the stoppers. Upon command from the bridge, the windlass operator will begin heaving around to bring in the chain. Normally, she or he will heave around to short stay (all the chain is retrieved leading up to the anchor, but heaving is stopped just short of pulling the anchor out of the ground) and wait for orders to proceed.
When so ordered, heaving is continued, and the bridge is informed when the anchor is up and down (pulled out of the ground, but still resting on the bottom). Once the anchor is clear of the bottom (the weight of the anchor is on the chain), the report “anchor’s aweigh” is sent to the bridge. At this point the ship is officially under way.
A quick note for the novice Sailor: Although it is incorrect, you will often see the Navy song referred to as “Anchor’s Away.” But “Anchor’s Aweigh” is the grammatically correct title because it refers to the heaving in of the anchor. In practice (as on the Navy’s official website), the title often leaves out the apostrophe, making the title “Anchors Aweigh.”
A hose team will spray the chain as it emerges from the water to remove the mud and debris accumulated from the bottom. Once the anchor can be seen, the forecastle will report its condition to the bridge. Upon visual inspection of the anchor, the forecastle will report “anchor clear,” or “anchor fouled” if it is tangled with a cable or some other object, or “anchor shod” if it has large amounts of mud on it. If it is ready to be housed (brought back into the hawsepipe), it will be heaved in and stoppers will be set to hold it in place.
STANDARD COMMANDS
Just as it is vital for clear, concise communications during line-handling operations, so is it important to have the same during anchoring operations. See TAB 12-D: Anchoring Commands.
![[12.10] From anchored to...](../images/f0288-01.jpg)
[12.10] From anchored to under way
SCOPE OF CHAIN
The ship is held in place not only by the anchor itself but by the chain as well. Scope is the amount of chain the ship puts out to hold the ship in place. This amount varies with the depth of the water. The scope is normally five to seven times the depth of the water. For example, if your ship is anchoring in 10 fathoms (60 feet) of water, the OOD will use between 50 fathoms (300 feet) and 70 fathoms (420 feet) of chain to hold the ship in place.
Mooring to a Buoy
To avoid confusion, be aware that one does not moor to a navigational buoy. There are, in some locations in the world, special buoys that are securely attached to the bottom and are equipped for mooring a ship. Rather than use lines in this type of moor, a ship detaches its anchor chain from its anchor and then reattaches the chain to the buoy. This method has the advantage of allowing a ship to be securely moored in a specific location without having to use its own anchor or its mooring lines. The disadvantage is that, like anchoring, this method of mooring leaves the ship out in the middle of the water, necessitating the use of boats or helicopters to get personnel and supplies on and off the ship. This method of mooring is not as common as it once was but is still used in some ports.
TOWING
Most routine towing jobs in the Navy are handled by vessels that are specially equipped to handle these operations, such as harbor tugs, fleet tugs, salvage vessels, and submarine-rescue vessels. But other Navy ships must, in emergencies, be able to tow other vessels or be towed themselves.
The towing rig used varies among classes and types of ships, but includes certain common items. On the stern, most ships have a towing-pad eye that is used to attach the towing assembly, made up of a chafing chain with a large pelican hook made fast to a towing hawser. The hawser itself is usually a wire or synthetic hawser varying in length from 100 fathoms (600 feet) for a destroyer to 150 fathoms (900 feet) for a larger ship. It is normally attached to one of the towed ship’s anchor chains, which has been disconnected from the anchor, run through the bull-nose, and veered to 20 to 45 fathoms.
The length of the towline—hawser and chain—is adjusted to hang in a deep underwater curve called a catenary, which helps to relieve surges on the line caused by movements of the two ships. Whether towing is done with two motor launches or two cruisers, the towline should be of such a scope (or length) that the two craft are in step, which means that they should both reach the crest of a wave at the same time. Otherwise, the towline will be whipped out of the water and may cause serious damage.
Once the towing hawser is rigged, the towing vessel gets under way very slowly. If the towing vessel moves too quickly, it may cause the line to part. Course changes must also be made slowly, never exceeding 15 degrees of rudder.
If you are involved in a towing operation, be aware that the towing line could part at any time and that, if it does, the potential for serious injury is very great. Never get any closer to a towing line than you have to.
DECK SEAMANSHIP
Despite all of their sophisticated electronics and modern engineering components, Navy ships must still rely on basic deck seamanship techniques to be able to move heavy loads about and to receive fuel, ammunition, and supplies on board. The principles—and, in fact, some of the actual equipment—used to accomplish these things are the same that Sailors have used for centuries. Mechanical winches may have replaced pure manpower in some cases, but the techniques and the rigs used are the same ones that Sailors used in the days of sail to get their work done. Because of this strong link to the past, many of the terms used in deck seamanship come down to us from centuries ago and will, therefore, take some getting used to.
Cargo Handling
Service and amphibious ships in the Navy, by the nature of their business, must be able to handle large amounts of cargo. But even combatants must be able to handle at least limited amounts. Therefore all ships have at least some cargo-handling equipment.
BASIC TERMINOLOGY
The most basic form of a cargo-handling rig is a boom attached to a kingpost that is operated by a combination of lines rigged for the purpose. A kingpost is a short, sturdy mast capable of supporting a large amount of weight. A boom is a sturdy pole that is attached to the kingpost by a swivel-type device called a gooseneck. The boom is lifted up and down by a topping lift and it is moved from side to side by guys (sometimes called vangs).
Rigging is a general term for wires, ropes, and chains used to support kingposts or other masts, or to operate cargo-handling equipment. Standing rigging describes lines that support but do not move. Examples of standing rigging are stays, which are rigged fore and aft to support masts, and shrouds, which are rigged athwartships to provide support. Running rigging includes movable lines such as topping lifts and guys.
One of the basic principles you must know if you are going to be able to work efficiently in handling cargo is that a device you probably would have called a pulley before becoming a Sailor is called a block and can be rigged to give you a significant mechanical advantage and thereby save you a great deal of work and energy. When blocks and lines are combined either to change the direction of an applied force or to gain a mechanical advantage, the combination is called a tackle. See TAB 12-E: Blocks and Tackles for a detailed explanation of these useful rigs.
BASIC RIGS
Perhaps the simplest cargo-handling rig is called a single swinging boom. If you have ever watched a crane at a construction site, this is comparable to a single swinging boom. The mechanical advantage of this rig can be increased by using one of the block-and-tackle combinations described in TAB 12-E: Blocks and Tackles.
Booms can be used singly or in pairs. One common use of a pair of booms is the yard-and-stay rig. One boom, called the hatch boom, is positioned over the ship’s deck or over a cargo hatch and the other, called the yard boom, is swung out over the side to hang over the pier. The cargo hook is attached to a pair of whips run from the end of each boom. The one attached to the hatch boom is called the hatch whip and the one attached to the yard boom is called a yard whip. By alternately easing out and heaving around on the two whips, the cargo hook (with its cargo attached) can be moved from the pier to the ship or vice versa.
Underway Replenishment (UNREP)
Before the techniques of underway replenishment (UNREP) were developed, a ship that ran low on fuel, supplies, or ammunition had to return to port, or she had to stop and lie to while she was replenished by small boats. This was a serious handicap that severely limited the effectiveness of ships at sea. With modern techniques of UNREP, an entire fleet can be resupplied, rearmed, and refueled within hours, while it is proceeding on its mission.
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There are two kinds of UNREP. One is called CONREP (for connected replenishment) and the other is called VERTREP (for vertical replenishment). CONREP is accomplished by ships coming alongside one another at a very close distance and exchanging fuel, ammunition, food, etc. VERTREP is accomplished using helicopters to lift items from one ship to another. The latter works well for things like food and ammunition but is not practical for fuel transfers. Frequently, you will hear the term UNREP used to mean CONREP.
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[12.13] Underway replenishment (UNREP) allows ships to remain on station for long periods of time.
Some ships—such as replenishment tankers (AOR), oilers (AO), fast combat support ships (AOE), combat store ships (AFS), and ammunition ships (AE)—spend a great deal of their time conducting UNREPs. Other ships conduct UNREPs as necessary to keep themselves ready and on station. An aircraft carrier, for example, must UNREP with an ammunition ship to receive ordnance if it has been conducting strike operations, and might conduct periodic UNREPs with its accompanying destroyers to replenish their expended fuel.
TIDES, CURRENTS, AND WINDS
Despite all of the advances of modern technology, ships are still very much subject to the natural forces at sea and in coastal waters. Anyone who ventures onto the great waters of the world must do so with an understanding that tides, currents, and winds will have an effect on what he or she does. Whether you are piloting a small boat on a narrow waterway or are part of the team that turns an aircraft carrier into the wind to launch aircraft, the more you understand about how these forces work and what their effects will be, the better mariner you will be.
Tides
Tides are very important in naval operations. Amphibious landings are normally scheduled for high tide so that troops and equipment can land well up on a beach. In some harbors, deep-draft ships may be able to enter only at high tide. Large ships are usually launched or dry-docked at high tide. Ships going alongside piers in channels subject to strong tides and currents normally wait for slack water, when the tide is neither ebbing nor flooding. Every Sailor whose responsibility is the handling of a vessel must understand the meaning and cause of various tidal conditions.
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[12.14] Helicopters can provide vertical replenishment (VERTREP).
The term tide describes the regular rise and fall of the water level along a coast or in a port. The gravitational attraction of the moon is the primary cause of tides; it pulls water away from the earth. The earth’s spinning motion also causes a bulge of water on the side of the earth opposite to the moon. Since the moon orbits the earth every twenty-four hours and fifty minutes, the result of these forces causes two low tides and two high tides at any given place during that period. The low and high tides are each twelve hours and twenty-five minutes apart. The sun also affects the tide, but it is so much farther away than is the moon that its pull is not nearly as great. It does, however, have an effect such that the rise and fall of tides are more complicated than they would otherwise be. Despite these variables, tides can be predicted with relative certainty and an experienced mariner will take advantage of this predictability whenever possible.
A tide rising—moving from low to high water—is said to be flooding. When the tide is falling, after high tide, it is said to be ebbing. The difference in depth between a high tide and the next low tide is considerable in many harbors; areas that are safe for a powerboat at high tide may be completely dry at low water. In some areas of the world, you might board a vessel from a pier in the morning by stepping directly across, using a level brow, and that same afternoon you would have to use a ladder to climb up to the main deck.
Currents
In most harbors and inlets, tides are the chief causes of currents; however, if the port is situated on a large river, its flow may also have a considerable effect on tidal currents. The flow of a large river will prolong the duration of an ebbing current, and the velocity of that current will be considerably greater as well.
Where currents are chiefly caused by the rise and fall of the tide, their direction and speed are largely governed by the shape of the shoreline and the contour of the ocean bottom. In a straight section of a confined waterway, the current tends to flow most rapidly in the center and much more slowly in the shallower water near either shore. If a boat goes with the current, the coxswain generally wants to stay near the center of the waterway. If a boat goes against the current, the coxswain stays as close to shore as the prevailing water depth will allow.
In many wide inlets, near the time of slack water the current may actually reverse itself in part of the inlet; while the ebb is still moving out of the main channel, a gentle flood may start near one shore. This condition, where it exists and is understood, can be helpful to a small-boat operator.
Where there is a bend in the channel, the current flows most strongly on the outside of the bend. This effect is very marked, particularly with a strong current. In some areas, a strong current can create rough water called tide rips. These are usually shown on charts and should be avoided. Every vessel, regardless of size, must make some allowance for the current’s set and drift (direction and speed), which affects the course to be steered.
One more thing to bear in mind about currents: only on the coast does the turn of the current occur at the time of high water. In many ports, owing to the effect of the land’s shape on water flow, there may be a very considerable difference between the time of high or low water and the time that the current starts to ebb or flood.
Winds
Modern naval vessels are not dependent on the wind for power, as sailing ships were, but at times the wind’s effect on a ship can be considerable. Although sails are no longer used on naval vessels, the area of the ship’s hull and superstructure exposed to the wind is still called sail area. The more sail area a ship has, the more effect wind has on it. For example, an aircraft carrier, with all of its massive sail area, will have a more difficult time moving toward a pier that has an offsetting (from the pier to the water) wind blowing than will a submarine, which is low to the water and has much less area exposed to the effects of the wind.
The natural wind that is blowing at any given time (the breeze you feel on your face, for example, when you are standing on a beach looking out to sea) is called true wind. You know that on a perfectly still day, when there is no wind blowing, you can easily have your cap blown off while riding in a convertible with the top down. This air flow, caused by the vehicle moving through the air, is called relative wind (its velocity is directly relative to the speed you are traveling). When the effects of these two are combined, the result is called apparent wind. For example, there will seem to be a lot more wind blowing if you drive down a road at high speed into the wind.
To illustrate these various winds, think about traveling in a small boat at a speed of 20 knots. If, when you start out, there is no (true) wind blowing, the relative wind (caused by your motion) will be 20 knots. An hour later, the wind has begun blowing out of the north at a speed of 10 knots. If you head north, the apparent wind will be 30 knots (20 relative + 10 true). If you head south, the apparent wind will be 10 knots (20 relative – 10 true). If you head in any other direction the apparent wind will be something in between 10 and 20 knots depending upon the course chosen.
The effect of wind on ship operations can be beneficial or detrimental. During flight operations, an aircraft carrier most often heads into the wind, because the increased speed of the apparent wind helps aircraft take off and land by providing them more lift. A strong wind can make mooring a ship more difficult by keeping it off the pier or causing it to blow down on the pier too quickly.
At sea, the direction of the true wind is indicated by streaks of foam down the back sides of waves, while the direction of the apparent wind is shown by the way the ship’s flags are blowing. True winds are described by the direction from which they are blowing. A north wind is blowing from the north toward the south, for example.
The side of the ship toward the wind is the windward side, and the side away from the wind is the leeward side. When the wind changes direction to the right, or clockwise, it veers; when it changes in the other direction (counterclockwise), it backs.
BOATS
The term “boat” refers to small craft limited in their use by size and usually not capable of making independent voyages of any length on the high seas. Do not make the mistake of calling a ship a “boat.” It will mark you as a real landlubber. The exception to this is that submarines are more often than not called “boats.”
The Navy uses thousands of boats, ranging from 9-foot dinghies to 135-foot landing craft. They are powered by diesels, outboard gasoline motors, or waterjets. Most boats are built of aluminum, fiberglass, or steel. Newer Navy boats are designed and built using the International System of units (also known as SI or metric), but older craft were designed using the English units system (feet and inches).
Types of Boats
The variety of boats is very large. Different types provide transportation, deliver supplies, assist in work and security, and participate in combat operations. A standard boat is a small craft carried aboard a ship to perform various tasks and evolutions, such as transporting personnel, moving supplies, and providing security. Other types have specialized capabilities. For example, landing craft are carried by various amphibious ships and are designed to carry troops, vehicles, or cargo from ship to shore under combat conditions, to unload, to retract from the beach, and to return to the ship. They are especially rugged, with powerful engines, and they are often armed. Landing craft are usually referred to by their designations (such as LCM or LCU) rather than by full names.
A very sophisticated landing craft used in today’s fleet is the LCAC (landing craft, air cushion). As you can tell by the name, this unusual craft floats on a cushion of air that allows it to travel over water and right up onto land to deliver troops, equipment, and supplies. LCACs can clear an obstacle up to 4 feet high. They are 81 feet long and can carry a variety of vehicles or a load of more than 70 tons. Powered by 4 gas turbine engines, they are capable of speeds as high as 50 knots.
Workboats (WB) are found in shipyards and often carried on board salvage ships to assist in salvage operations, diving operations, underwater exploration, coastal survey, repair of other craft, and cargo transport between ships and shore.
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Rigid Hull Inflatable Boats (RHIB) are versatile boats designed for service as a standard ship’s boat. The hull form is a combination of a rigid planing hull with an inflatable tube.
Personnel Boats (PE or PERS) are designed to transport personnel from ship to shore or from ship to ship. Those designed for officers are painted haze gray with white cabins. Those assigned for use by commanding officers, chief of staff, and squadron, patrol, or division commanders are called gigs and have a red stripe added just above the waterline. Personnel boats assigned to flag officers (admirals) are called barges. They have black hulls and a white stripe just above the waterline.
Utility Boats (UB), varying in length from 18 feet to 50 feet, are mainly cargo and personnel carriers or heavy-duty work boats. Many have been modified for survey work, tending divers, and minesweeping operations. In ideal weather, a 15-meter (50-foot) UB will carry 146 people, plus crew. Utility boats are open boats, though many of the larger ones are provided with canvas canopies. The smaller utility boats are powered by outboard engines. The larger boats have diesel engines.
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[12.16] A rigid hull inflatable boat (RHIB)
Punts are open square-enders, 14 feet long. They are either rowed or sculled, and are generally used in port by side cleaners.
SPECIAL BOATS
Some boats, used by shore stations and for special missions, are not normally carried on board ships. These include line-handling boats, buoy boats, aircraft rescue boats, torpedo retrievers, explosive ordnance disposal craft, utility boats, dive boats, targets, and various patrol boats. Many standard boats have been modified for special service.
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[12.18] This 15-meter utility boat can carry 146 people.
Boat Crews
Most boats have permanently assigned crews. Crew size varies depending on the type of boat, but typically consists of the coxswain, an engineer, a bowhook, and sometimes a sternhook and a boat officer. All must be qualified swimmers.
Boat crews represent their parent vessel and should take pride in their appearance and that of their boat. The efficiency and smartness of a ship’s boats and boat crews reflect the standards of the ship. Clean white uniforms can be hard to maintain on some ships, but custom dictates that every day the ship’s laundry wash and press a uniform for each member of the duty boat’s crew. Ship regulations frequently require crewmembers to wear sneakers. This is a safety factor, but it also avoids scuff marks and keeps the boats themselves looking good.
COXSWAIN
The coxswain is in charge of all personnel and equipment in the boat. Subject to the orders of the OOD and the senior line officer embarked, a coxswain otherwise has full authority and is responsible for the boat’s appearance, safety, and efficient operation. The crew and passengers (including embarked troops) are required to cooperate fully with the coxswain. In fulfilling his or her responsibilities, the coxswain must be familiar with all details relating to the boat’s care and handling. Equally important, the coxswain must be able to instruct the crew in all aspects of the general service and drills. The coxswain is also responsible for the appearance and behavior of the crew.
ENGINEER
The engineer ensures that the engine is in good condition and ready to run. Only the engineer should work on the engine. The engineer may also perform the duties of the sternhook.
BOWHOOK
The bowhook (pronounced to rhyme with “now”) handles lines forward when the boat is coming alongside a pier or ship. The bowhook also tends fenders and forward weather cloths (canvases spread for protection against the wind). In an open boat, the bowhook usually sits on the forward thwart (cross-seat) on the starboard side, outboard. In bad weather, she or he may move to the lee side. The bowhook faces the bow and serves as a lookout.
When the boat approaches the landing, the bowhook should be ready to spring ashore with the painter (a length of line secured to the bow of the boat for towing or making fast) and take a turn on the nearest cleat. When the boat approaches a ship’s side, the bowhook should be in the bow with the boathook, ready to snag the boat line and make it fast. The bowhook should always have a fender ready to drop over the side if a bump is unavoidable.
STERNHOOK
The sternhook, likewise, should be ready at once to jump ashore with the stern line. In an open boat, the sternhook normally sits on the starboard side, outboard on the after thwart, facing aft.
BOAT OFFICER
During heavy weather, and other times as deemed necessary, an officer (sometimes a chief petty officer) is assigned to each duty boat. A boat officer has authority over the coxswain. The boat officer does not assume the coxswain’s responsibilities, or relieve the coxswain of his or her normal duties, but is there to oversee the boat operations and to ensure that safety is maintained at all times. The situation is somewhat like the relationship between the OOD and the commanding officer on the bridge. The coxswain and boat officer are responsible for the boat and for the safety and welfare of the crew and passengers.
Care of Boats
Maintenance greatly increases a boat’s service life and ensures its operational readiness. The boat crew takes great care to prevent corrosion of metal-hulled boats by maintaining the paint and specified preservation coatings in good condition and ensuring that the proper number of zincs are used to prevent electrolytic corrosion.
Maintenance and repair of fiberglass hulls involve the same materials and techniques used on sports cars. Do not use laminates, resin, or hardeners without fully reading the instructions.
Repair minor damage, tighten loose bolts, and fix or replace leaking gaskets as soon as possible to prevent more repairs later. Secure all loose gear to avoid damage when the water gets rough. Keep the boat and its equipment free of dirt, corrosion, and accumulated grease.
Proper preventive maintenance is essential. Engine oil changes, battery servicing, and other maintenance should be performed in accordance with the planned maintenance system (PMS) for the boat. Gear housings, steering mechanisms, and other moving parts must be well lubricated. All rubber exhaust couplings should be checked for tightness and condition. When a boat is hoisted out of the water, the struts, propeller, sea suctions, and shaft bearings should be checked. Dog-eared propellers or worn shaft bearings cause heavy vibration, which may result in severe damage to the hull or engine.
Oil-soaked bilges are a fire hazard. When draining or filling fuel tanks or engine crankcases, avoid spilling diesel fuel or engine oil.
Fenders should be placed between boats when they are tied up.
Boat Customs and Etiquette
Just as Navy ships adhere to certain customs and traditions, so do Navy boats. See TAB 12-F: Boat Customs and Etiquette for additional information.
Boat Equipment
Every Navy boat in active service must have a complete outfit of equipment for meeting any ordinary situation. It is necessary to requisition part of the outfit. When a boat is turned in, its outfit also must be turned in, unless the boat is to be replaced by another of the same type. In that event, the outfit is retained. If a boat is to be replaced by one of a different type, the only items retained are those allowed for the new boat.
Hoisting and Lowering Boats
The process of hoisting and lowering boats is potentially dangerous and should be approached with the utmost attention to safety. While larger ships may use a crane to hoist and lower boats, davits are more commonly used. Davits are crane-like devices at the side edge of a ship’s deck that are specially designed to hoist and stow boats aboard ship. Hoisting boats with double-arm davits is somewhat more complicated than lifting them with a crane. The boat is attached to the sea painter in the same manner as with a crane—particularly if the ship has headway and must therefore take the same precautions against broaching to when the boat is lifted.
There are a number of different kinds of davits in use in the Navy.
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[12.19] Hoisting and launching boats are important seamanship skills.
Gravity davits are found on newer ships. Power is not required to lower boats. The boat lowers by gravity as it is suspended from the falls, and the descent speed is controlled with the boat’s davit-winch manual brake. Several types of gravity davits are used. Depending on the design, a pair of modified davits may handle one to four boats; they are designated as single-, double-, or quadruple-davits. These are used mainly with amphibious craft.
An overhead suspended davit is a special gravity davit used beneath a sponson or other overhang found on aircraft carriers and helicopter landing ships.
A slewing arm davit (SLAD) is a mechanical davit with a single arm. The davit arm is mounted on a pedestal and rotates about a vertical axis when moving the boat outboard and inboard in a slewing type motion.
A trackway davit is a gravity davit consisting of an arm or arms mounted on rollers that run on an inclined trackway or trackways that are mounted on the deck. The incline on the trackway(s) is sufficient for gravity to cause the boat and arm(s) to move down the trackway(s) from the inboard position to the outboard position so that the boat may be lowered into the water.
LAUNCHING
Before swinging out a boat to be lowered, first make sure that the hull drain plugs are in. Each person in the boat wears a life jacket and hard hat and has a lifeline (monkey line) in hand. Run your sea painter outboard of everything on the ship, to the ship side of the bow, and belay with a toggle, so you can let it go without difficulty.
The boat’s engine is started while the boat is in the air, but the clutch is never engaged until the falls are unhooked and hauled clear. In releasing the boat, the after fall is always unhooked first. Before starting ahead, take care that there are no trailing lines astern that might foul the screw. When the boat runs ahead and the painter slackens, the painter is thrown off by pulling out the toggle. The sea painter is hauled back to the ship by the light line attached to it.
HOISTING
When a boat comes alongside an underway ship to be hoisted in, the crew first secures the end of the sea painter. The shipboard end of the line is bent securely to a cleat or a set of bitts. The boat end of the painter is lowered by a light line and made fast to a forward inboard cleat. The sea painter is never bent to the boat’s stern or to the side of the bow away from the ship. If it is, the boat, when riding to the painter, will dive against the ship’s side and perhaps capsize. It is also important that the boat be driven ahead and allowed to drop back on the sea painter to position itself exactly under the crane before lifting. Otherwise, it may broach to (turn crossways to the flow of water) and capsize as it starts to leave the water.
Once the boat rides to the painter, its engine is secured and the slings are attached. Steadying lines are secured to the cleats on the outboard side of the boat and brought back on deck to hold it steady as it rises. The bowhooks and sternhooks must fend the boat off the side of the ship to prevent damage to either.
Ready Lifeboat
Regulations require that a ship at sea have at least one boat rigged and ready to be lowered for use as a lifeboat. The ship’s boat bill states the exact specifications a lifeboat must meet and the equipment it must have.
At the start of each watch, the lifeboat coxswain musters the crew, checks the boat and gear, has the engine tested, and reports to the OOD. Depending upon current operations, the crew may be required to remain near the boat.
The ready lifeboat, usually a RHIB, is secured for sea in the davits, ready for lowering. The lifeboat has its sea painter already rigged, and the lifelines are cleared for running. The boat should have a full tank of fuel, and the lubricating oil reservoir should be full. Keep an extra can of oil on board. The bilge should be clean and dry and the boat plug in place. Life jackets are to be ready nearby or in the boat so the crew may don them quickly before lowering away.
Even though today’s Navy is technologically advanced to an astonishing degree, many aspects of basic seamanship have changed little since the days of sail. Ships still use mooring lines and anchors much as the tall ships of yesteryear did, and boats are still an important part of the Navy’s inventory. As a Sailor, you are tied to the sea—directly or indirectly—and you should know the basics of seamanship no matter what your rate. Besides being a point of pride, understanding the ways of the sea and how to cope with them may someday mean the difference between success and failure or even life and death.