Marin County

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Sausalito | Tiburon | Mill Valley | The Marin Headlands | Muir Woods National Monument | Mt. Tamalpais State Park | Stinson Beach | Bolinas | Point Reyes National Seashore

Marin is quite simply a knockout—some go so far as to call it spectacular and wild. This isn’t an extravagant claim, since more than 40% of the county (180,000 acres), including the majority of the coastline, is parkland. The territory ranges from chaparral, grassland, and coastal scrub to broadleaf and evergreen forest, redwood, salt marsh, and rocky shoreline.

Regardless of its natural beauty, what gave the county its reputation was Cyra McFadden’s 1977 book The Serial, a literary soap opera that depicted the county as a bastion of hot-tubbing and “open” marriages. Indeed old-time bohemian, but also increasingly jet-set, Marinites still spend a lot of time outdoors, and surfing, cycling, and hiking are common after-work and weekend activities. Adrenaline junkies mountain bike down Mt. Tamalpais, and those who want solitude take a walk on one of Point Reyes’s many empty beaches. The hot tub remains a popular destination, but things have changed since the boho days. Artists and musicians who arrived in the 1960s have set the tone for mellow country towns, but Marin is now undeniably chic, with BMWs supplanting VW buses as the cars of choice.

Most cosmopolitan is Sausalito, the town just over the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. Across the inlet from Sausalito, Tiburon and Belvedere are lined with grand homes that regularly appear on fund-raising circuits, and to the north, landlocked Mill Valley is a hub of wining and dining and tony boutiques. The next town, Corte Madera, hosts regular readings by top-notch authors and Larkspur, San Anselmo, and Fairfax beyond have walkable downtown areas, each a bit folksier than the next but all with good restaurants and shops and a distinct sense of place.

In general, the farther you get from the Golden Gate Bridge the more country things become, and West Marin is about as far as you can get from the big city, both physically and ideologically. Separated from the inland county by the slopes and ridges of giant Mt. Tamalpais, this territory beckons to mavericks, artists, ocean lovers, and other free spirits. Stinson Beach has tempered its isolationist attitude to accommodate out-of-towners, as have Inverness and Point Reyes Station. Bolinas, on the other hand, would prefer you not know its location.

Sausalito

2 miles north of Golden Gate Bridge.

Bougainvillea-covered hillsides and an expansive yacht harbor give Sausalito the feel of an Adriatic resort. The town sits on the northwestern edge of San Francisco Bay, where it’s sheltered from the ocean by the Marin Headlands; the mostly mild weather here is perfect for strolling and outdoor dining. Nevertheless, morning fog and afternoon winds can roll over the hills without warning, funneling through the central part of Sausalito once known as Hurricane Gulch.

South on Bridgeway (toward San Francisco), which snakes between the bay and the hills, a waterside esplanade is lined with restaurants on piers that lure diners with good seafood and even better views. Stairs along the west side of Bridgeway climb the hill to wooded neighborhoods filled with both rustic and opulent homes. As you amble along Bridgeway past shops and galleries, you’ll notice the absence of basic services. If you need an aspirin or some groceries (or if you want to see the locals), you’ll have to head to Caledonia Street, which runs parallel to Bridgeway, north of the ferry terminus and inland a couple of blocks. The streets closest to the ferry landing flaunt their fair share of shops selling T-shirts and kitschy souvenirs. Venture into some of the side streets or narrow alleyways to catch a bit more of the town’s taste for eccentric jewelry and handmade crafts.

TIP The ferry is the best way to get to Sausalito from San Francisco; you get more romance (and less traffic) and disembark in the heart of downtown.

Sausalito had a raffish reputation before it went upscale. Discovered in 1775 by Spanish explorers and named Sausalito (Little Willow) for the trees growing around its springs, the town served as a port for whaling ships during the 19th century. By the mid-1800s wealthy San Franciscans were making Sausalito their getaway across the bay. They built lavish Victorian summer homes in the hills, many of which still stand. In 1875 the railroad from the north connected with ferryboats to San Francisco, bringing the merchant and working classes with it. This influx of hardworking, fun-loving folk polarized the town into “wharf rats” and “hill snobs,” and the waterfront area grew thick with saloons, gambling dens, and bordellos. Bootleggers flourished during Prohibition, and shipyard workers swelled the town’s population in the 1940s.

Sausalito developed its bohemian flair in the 1950s and ’60s, when creative types, led by a charismatic Greek portraitist named Varda, established an artists’ colony and a houseboat community here. Today more than 450 houseboats are docked in Sausalito, which has since also become a major yachting center. Some of the houseboats are ragged, others deluxe, but all are quirky (one, a miniature replica of a Persian castle, even has an elevator inside). For a close-up view of the community, head north on Bridgeway—Sausalito’s main thoroughfare—from downtown, turn right on Gate Six Road, and park where it dead-ends at the public shore. Keep a respectful distance; these are homes, after all, and the residents become a bit prickly from too much ogling.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Sausalito Chamber of Commerce.
| 780 Bridgeway | 94965 | 415/332–0505, 415/331–7262 |
www.sausalito.org.

Getting Here and Around

From San Francisco by car or bike, follow U.S. 101 north across the Golden Gate Bridge and take the first exit, Alexander Avenue, just past Vista Point; continue down the winding hill to the water to where the road becomes Bridgeway. Buses 10 and 22 will drop you off in downtown Sausalito, and the ferries dock downtown as well. The center of town is flat, with plenty of sidewalks and bay views. It’s a pleasure and a must to explore on foot.

Exploring Sausalito

Bay Area Discovery Museum.
Sitting at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge, this indoor-outdoor museum offers entertaining and enlightening hands-on exhibits for children under eight. Kids can fish from a boat at the indoor wharf, imagine themselves as marine biologists in the Wave Workshop, and play outdoors at Lookout Cove (made up of scaled-down sea caves, tidal pools, and even a re-created shipwreck). At Tot Zone, toddlers and preschoolers dress up in animal costumes and crawl through miniature tunnels. From San Francisco, take U.S. 101’s Alexander Avenue exit and follow signs to East Fort Baker. | 557 McReynolds Rd. at East Rd. off Alexander Ave. | 94965 | 415/339–3900 | www.baykidsmuseum.org | $11; children under 6 months free | Tues.–Fri. 9–4, weekends 10–5.

Bay Model.
An anonymous-looking World War II shipyard building holds a great treasure: the sprawling (more than 1½ acres) Bay Model of the entire San Francisco Bay and the San Joaquin–Sacramento River delta, complete with flowing water. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers uses the model to reproduce the rise and fall of tides, the flow of currents, and the other physical forces at work on the bay. Science becomes tangible as interactive displays draw children in and adults also learn more about some real California flow. | 2100 Bridgeway at Marinship Way | 94965 | 415/332–3870 recorded information, 415/332–3871 operator assistance | www.spn.usace.army.mil/bmvc | Free | Memorial Day–Labor Day, Tues.–Fri. 9–4, weekends 10–5; Labor Day–Memorial Day, Tues.–Sat. 9–4.

Drinking Fountain.
On the waterfront between the Hotel Sausalito and the Sausalito Yacht Club is an unusual historic landmark—a drinking fountain. It’s inscribed with “Have a drink on Sally” in remembrance of Sally Stanford, the former San Francisco madam who later became the town’s mayor in the 1970s. Sassy Sally, as they called her, would have appreciated the fountain’s eccentric custom attachment: a knee-level basin that reads “Have a drink on Leland,” in memory of her beloved dog.

Quick Bites: Hamburgers. Judging by the crowds gathered outside Hamburgers, you’d think someone was juggling flaming torches out front. They’re really gaping at the juicy hand-formed beef patties sizzling on a rotating grill. Brave the line (it moves fast), get your food to go, and head for the esplanade to enjoy the sweeping views. Hours are 11 am–5 pm. | 737 Bridgeway at Humboldt Ave. | 94965 | 415/332–9471.

Plaza Viña del Mar.
The landmark Plaza Viña del Mar, named for Sausalito’s sister city in Chile, marks the center of town. Flanked by two 14-foot-tall elephant statues (created in 1915 for the Panama-Pacific International Exposition), the fountain is a great setting for snapshots and people-watching. | Bridgeway and Park St. | 94965.

Sausalito Visitors Center and Historical Exhibit.
Get your bearings and find out what’s happening in town at the Sausalito Visitors Center and Historical Exhibit, operated by the town’s historical society. The center is closed Monday. | 780 Bridgeway at Bay St. | 94965 | 415/332–0505.

Where to Eat in Sausalito

Bar Bocce.
$$ | ITALIAN | Few Bay Area eateries can boast of having a beach adjoining the outdoor dining area. And when you play a game of bocce here, it’s framed by Richardson Bay. Modern Californian cuisine is served, including pizzas, salads, and signature dishes such as the meatball sliders and the fire-roasted game hen. Reservations aren’t taken, so be prepared to wait for a table—time you can spend sipping local beer and wine by the outdoor fire pit. | Average main: $17 | 1250 Bridgeway between Pine and Turney Sts. | 415/331–0555 | barbocce.com | Reservations not accepted.

Bridgeway Cafe.
$ | CAFÉ | The view’s the thing at this diner-café on the main drag across the road from the bay. People line up on weekends for great breakfasts of pancakes and eggs and lunches of hot and cold sandwiches. Take in a view of the water while enjoying a morning croissant, well-crafted BLT, or the excellent fries. The Mediterranean dishes are also a hit—try the mixed appetizer platter or a hearty Greek salad. The café serves continuously until 5 pm. | Average main: $13 | 633 Bridgeway at Princess St. | 94965 | 415/332–3426 | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.

Fodor’s Choice | Fish.
$$ | SEAFOOD | When locals want fresh seafood, they head to this gleaming dockside fish house a mile north of downtown. Order at the counter and then grab a seat by the floor-to-ceiling windows or at a picnic table on the pier, overlooking the yachts and fishing boats. Most of the sustainably caught fish is hauled in from the owner’s boats, docked right outside. Try the ceviche, crab Louis, cioppino, barbecue oysters, or anything fresh that’s being grilled over the oak-wood fire. Outside, kids can doodle with sidewalk chalk on the pier. | Average main: $22 | 350 Harbor Dr. off Bridgeway | 94965 | 415/331–3474 | www.331fish.com | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards.

Le Garage.
$$$ | BISTRO | Brittany-born Olivier Souvestre serves traditional French bistro fare in a relaxed, sidewalk café–style bayside setting. The menu is small, but the dishes are substantial in flavor and presentation. Standouts include frisée salad with poached egg, bacon, croutons, and pancetta vinaigrette; steak frites with a shallot confit and crispy fries; and a chef’s selection of cheese or charcuterie with soup and mixed greens. The restaurant only seats 35 inside and 15 outside, so to avoid a long wait for lunch, arrive before 11:30 or after 1:30. | Average main: $23 | 85 Liberty Ship Way off Marinship Way | 94965 | 415/332–5625 | www.legaragebistrosausalito.com | Reservations essential | No dinner Sun.

Lighthouse Café.
$ | SCANDINAVIAN | A cozy spot with a long coffee bar and dose of Scandinavian flair, this local establishment has been a favorite brunch destination for nearly two decades. The hearty Norwegian salmon omelet with spinach and cream cheese or fruit pancakes, as well as the grilled burgers, sandwiches, and Danish specials like meatballs with potato salad always hit the spot, especially on chilly days. Expect a wait on weekends and at lunch hour. | Average main: $12 | 1311 Bridgeway near Turney St. | 94965 | 415/331–3034 | www.lighthouse-restaurants.com | Reservations not accepted | 7 am to 3 pm.

Plate Shop.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Sausalito’s newest shrine to farm-to-table organic, sustainable, and seriously local cuisine sits tucked neatly away from traffic. The seasonal menu is ever-changing, but the bar favorites include the grilled Monterey squid and the smoked trout; for dinner entrées, if they’re offered, consider the fried chicken with fingerling potatoes or the rabbit braised in mustard sauce. The bar scene’s fun here, too. | Average main: $23 | 39 Caledonia St. between Pine and Johnson Sts. | 415/887–9047.

Poggio.
$$ | ITALIAN | One of the few restaurants in Sausalito to attract both food-savvy locals and tourists, Poggio serves modern Tuscan cuisine in a handsome, open-wall space that spills onto the street. Expect dishes such as grilled lamb chops with roasted eggplant, braised artichokes with polenta, feather-light gnocchi, and pizzas from the open kitchen’s wood-fired oven. | Average main: $21 | 777 Bridgeway at Bay St. | 94965 | 415/332–7771 | Reservations essential.

Sushi Ran.
$$ | SUSHI | Sushi aficionados swear that this is the Bay Area’s best option for raw fish, but don’t overlook the excellent Pacific Rim fusions, a melding of Japanese ingredients and French cooking techniques, served up in unusual presentations. Because Sushi Ran is so highly ranked among area foodies, book two to seven days in advance for dinner. Otherwise, expect a long wait, which you can soften by sipping one of the 45 by-the-glass sakes from the outstanding wine-and-sake bar. TIP If you arrive without a reservation and can’t get a table, you can sometimes dine in the noisy bar. | Average main: $18 | 107 Caledonia St. at Pine St. | 94965 | 415/332–3620 | Reservations essential | No lunch weekends.

Wellingtons Wine Bar.
$ | WINE BAR | British memorabilia decorates the walls of this establishment that celebrates English and Californian liquid culture. The space is bright, warm, and welcoming with hardwood floors, leather sofas, and actual Wellington boots mounted beside the big glass windows. When the weather is nice, you can sit on the boat dock and drink your pint of lager or sip a glass of wine while scooping up hummus with garlic pita chips. The menu is as big as a book—no one leaves this place hungry (or thirsty). | Average main: $10 | 1306 Bridgeway at Turney St. | 415/331–9463 | www.wellingtonswinebar.com | Reservations not accepted.

Where to Stay in Sausalito

Casa Madrona.
$$$$ | HOTEL | What began as a small inn in a 19th-century landmark mansion has expanded over the decades to include a contemporary section and hillside cottages, along with a full-service spa, all tiered down a hill in the center of town. The contemporary section contains newer rooms with wet bars, sunken tubs, and bay windows; some have balconies overlooking Richardson Bay. The hillside cottages have recently been renovated for optimum indulgence. Bay-view rooms are pricey, but the vistas are spectacular. Pros: elegant new furniture; spacious rooms; central location. Cons: rooms in older section don’t have air-conditioning or full elevator access; breakfast is not included. TripAdvisor: “beautiful and relaxing,” “the perfect getaway,” “funky Sausalito retreat.” | Rooms from: $300 | 801 Bridgeway 94965 | 415/332–0502, 800/567–9524 | www.casamadrona.com | 60 rooms, 6 suites.

Cavallo Point.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Set in Golden Gate National Park, this luxury hotel and resort’s location is truly one of a kind, featuring turn-of-the-20th-century buildings converted into well-appointed yet eco-friendly rooms. Both historic and contemporary guest rooms are scattered around the property, a former Army post. Most of them overlook a massive lawn with stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay. The staff is accommodating and helpful. Murray Circle, the notable on-site restaurant, serves top-notch California ingredients and has an impressive wine cellar. The neighboring casual bar offers food and drink on a large porch. Pros: stunning views and numerous activities: a cooking school, yoga classes, and nature walks; spa with a tea bar; art gallery. Cons: landscaping feels incomplete; isolated from urban amenities. TripAdvisor: “hidden gem in the Bay area,” “fantastic stay,” “wonderful place to bring a toddler.” | Rooms from: $310 | 601 Murray Circle Fort Baker | 94965 | 415/339–4700 | www.cavallopoint.com | 68 historic and 74 contemporary guest rooms.

Hotel Sausalito.
$$ | B&B/INN | Handmade furniture and tasteful original art and reproductions give this well-run inn the feel of a small European hotel. The Mediterranean-like glow comes from the soft yellow, green, and orange tones bathing the rooms, some of which have harbor or park views. Space ranges from small quarters for budget-minded travelers (a rarity in pricey Marin) to commodious suites. Best of all, it’s smack-dab downtown, next to the ferry landing and above a row of shops. Pros: great staff; excellent central location; feels like home away from home. Cons: no room service; some rooms feel cramped. TripAdvisor: “best of Sausalito,” “great location,” “delightful.” | Rooms from: $170 | 16 El Portal | 94965 | 415/332–0700, 888/442–0700 | www.hotelsausalito.com | 14 rooms, 2 suites.

The Inn Above Tide.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | This is the only hotel in the Bay Area with balconies literally hanging over the water, and each of its rooms has a perfect-10 view that takes in wild Angel Island as well as the city lights across the bay. In the corner Vista Suite (the most expensive room here, at nearly triple the standard-room rate), you can even watch San Francisco twinkle from the king-size bed. Lovely touches—gardenias by the sink, large tubs, binoculars in every room, complimentary California wine and imported cheese—abound, and most rooms have wood-burning or gas fireplaces. Although it’s set in the middle of town, this place is tranquil. Pros: great complimentary breakfast; minutes from restaurants/attractions; free in-room binoculars let you indulge in the incredible views. Cons: costly parking; some rooms are on the small side. TripAdvisor: “what a view,” “sweet and stunning,” “comfortable luxury.” | Rooms from: $340 | 30 El Portal | 94965 | 415/332–9535, 800/893–8433 | www.innabovetide.com | 29 rooms, 3 suites.

Sports and the Outdoors in Sausalito

Sea Trek Ocean Kayaking Center.
The center offers guided half-day sea-kayaking trips underneath the Golden Gate Bridge and full- and half-day trips to Angel Island, both for beginners. Starlight and full-moon paddles are particularly popular. Trips for experienced kayakers, classes, and rentals are also available. Prices start at $20 per hour for rentals; $65 for a three-hour guided trip. | Schoonmaker Point Marina, off Libertyship Way | 94965 | 415/488–1000 | www.seatrekkayak.com.

SF Bay Adventures.
This outfit’s expert skippers conduct sunset and full-moon sails around the bay, as well as fascinating eco and great-white-shark tours. If you’re interested, they can arrange for you to spend the night in a lighthouse or even barbecue on Angel Island. | 60 Liberty Ship Way Suite 4 | 94965 | 415/331–0444 | www.sfbayadventures.com.

The Arts in Sausalito

Sausalito Art Festival.
The annual festival, held over Labor Day weekend, attracts more than 50,000 people to the northern waterfront area; Blue & Gold Fleet ferries from San Francisco dock at the pier adjacent to the festival. Tickets are $25. 415/332–3555, 415/331–3757 | www.sausalitoartfestival.org.

Shopping in Sausalito

Sausalito Ferry Co.
Eccentric and fun, this shop is a great place to buy trendy T-shirts, wallets, and clocks—not to mention solar-powered bobbleheads, outrageous cocktail napkins, even one-of-a-kind key chains. | 688 Bridgeway near Princess St. | 94965 | 415/332–9590 | www.sausalitoferry.com.

Something/Anything Gallery.
Where Bridgeway ends and curves toward the dock, this gallery with a friendly staff carries jewelry and gifts, from unique watches to humorous pendants. It’s a good spot to pick up your Sausalito memento. | 20 Princess St. at Broadway | 94965 | 415/339–8831.

Tiburon

2 miles north of Sausalito, 7 miles north of Golden Gate Bridge.

On a peninsula that was called Punta de Tiburon (Shark Point) by the Spanish explorers, this beautiful Marin County community retains the feel of a village—it’s more low-key than Sausalito—despite the encroachment of commercial establishments from the downtown area. The harbor faces Angel Island across Raccoon Strait, and San Francisco is directly south across the bay—which makes the views from the decks of harbor restaurants a major attraction. Since its incarnation, in 1884, when ferries from San Francisco connected the point with a railroad to San Rafael, the town has centered on the waterfront. TIP The ferry is the most relaxing (and fastest) way to get here, particularly in summer, allowing you to skip traffic and parking problems. If visiting midweek, keep in mind that many shops close either Tuesday or Wednesday, or both.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Tiburon Peninsula Chamber of Commerce.
96-B Main St. | 94920 | 415/435–5633 |
www.tiburonchamber.org.

Getting Here and Around

By car, head north from San Francisco on U.S. 101 and get off at CA 131/Tiburon Boulevard/East Blithedale Avenue (Exit 447). Turn right onto Tiburon Boulevard and drive just over 4 miles to downtown. Golden Gate Transit buses 8 and 19 serve downtown Tiburon from San Francisco, as does the Blue & Gold Fleet Ferry service. Tiburon’s Main Street is made for wandering, as are the footpaths that frame the water’s edge.

Exploring Tiburon

Ark Row.
Past the pink-brick bank building, Main Street is known as Ark Row, and has a tree-shaded walk lined with antiques and specialty stores. Some of the buildings are actually old houseboats. They floated in Belvedere Cove before being beached and transformed into stores. If you’re curious about architectural history, the Tiburon Heritage & Arts Commission prints a self-guided walking-tour map, available at local businesses. | Ark Row, parallel to Main St. | 94920 | www.landmarks-society.org.

Main Street.
Tiburon’s narrow Main Street is on the bay side; you can browse the shops and galleries or relax on a restaurant’s deck jutting out over the harbor.

Old St. Hilary’s Landmark and Wildflower Preserve.
The stark-white Old St. Hilary’s Landmark and Wildflower Preserve, an 1886 Carpenter Gothic church barged over from Strawberry Point in 1957, overlooks the town and the bay from its hillside perch. TIP The church is surrounded by a wildflower preserve that’s spectacular in May and June, when the rare black jewel flower blooms. Expect a steep walk uphill to reach the preserve. The hiking trails behind the landmark wind up to a peak that has 360-degree views of the entire Bay Area (great photo op). | 201 Esperanza St. off Mar West St. | 94920 | 415/435–1853 | www.landmarks-society.org | $3 suggested donation | Apr.–Oct., Wed. and Sun. 1–4 and by appointment.

Where to Eat in Tiburon

The Caprice.
$$$ | AMERICAN | For more than 50 years this Tiburon landmark, perched on a cliff overlooking the bay, has been the place to come to mark special occasions. The views are spectacular, and soft-yellow walls and starched white tablecloths help to make the space bright and light. Elegant comfort food is the premise, with choices like seared day boat scallops or pan-roasted filet mignon. Polishing off the warm chocolate cake with almond ice cream while gazing out at the sunset and porpoises bobbing in the waves below is a near perfect end to the evening. | Average main: $27 | 2000 Paradise Dr. | 94920 | 415/435–3400 | www.thecaprice.com | 5pm to 11pm; closed Mon.

Guaymas.
$$ | MODERN MEXICAN | The festive Guaymas restaurant at the ferry terminal claims a knockout view of the bay, handsome whitewashed adobe walls, tile floors, and a heated terrace bar—and it serves a top-notch margarita. A large open kitchen churns out fairly authentic Mexican dishes such as ceviche, carnitas uruapan (slow-roasted pork with salsa and black beans), mesquite-grilled fish, tamales, and a long list of others. TIP Sunday lunch is very popular, so make a reservation. | Average main: $19 | 5 Main St. | 94920 | 415/435–6300.

New Morning Cafe.
$ | AMERICAN | Omelets and scrambles are served all day long at this homey café. If you’re past morning treats, choose from the many soups, salads, and sandwiches. New Morning is open 6:30 am–2:30 pm weekdays and 6:30 am–4 pm weekends. | Average main: $11 | 1696 Tiburon Blvd. | 94920 | 415/435–4315 | No dinner.

Sam’s Anchor Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | Open since 1921, this casual dockside restaurant with mahogany wainscoting is the town’s most famous eatery. Today most people flock here for the deck, where out-of-towners and old salts sit shoulder to shoulder for bay views, beer, seafood, and Ramos fizzes. The lunch menu has the usual suspects—burgers, sandwiches, salads, fried fish with tartar sauce—and you’ll sit on plastic chairs at tables covered with blue-and-white-checked oilcloths. At night you can find standard seafood dishes with vegetarian and meat options. Expect a wait for outside tables on sunny summer days or weekends (there are no reservations for deck seating or weekend lunch). Mind the seagulls; they know no restraint. | Average main: $22 | 27 Main St. | 94920 | 415/435–4527.

Waypoint Pizza.
$$ | PIZZA | A nautical decor theme and a tasty “between the sheets” pizza-style sandwich are signatures of this creative pizzeria that also serves slices and whole gourmet pies. Booths are brightened with blue-checked tablecloths, and a playful air is added by indoor deck chairs, a picnic table complete with umbrella, and lighthouse salt-and-pepper shakers. | Average main: $15 | 15 Main St. | 94920 | 415/435–3440.

Where to Stay in Tiburon

The Lodge at Tiburon.
$$ | HOTEL | A block from Main Street and framed by stone pillars and sloped rooftops, the Lodge at Tiburon has the feel of a winter ski chalet, though the outdoor pool and its cabanas provide a summery counterpoint. Despite the incongruity, the feeling here is one of comfort. The soft cream linens and gentle green walls reflect the natural light that fills the guest rooms. Most rooms and suites have private balconies or decks. Pros: spacious work desks in each room; plush bathrobes; L’Occitane bath products; room service from the Tiburon Grill. Cons: breakfast for a fee; some rooms have a few too many mirrors; no bay views. TripAdvisor: “clean modern rooms,” “beautiful common areas,” “perfect spot for a quiet romantic evening.” | Rooms from: $170 | 1651 Tiburon Blvd. at Beach St. | 415/435–3133 lodgeattiburon.com | 102 rooms.

Waters Edge Hotel.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Checking into this elegant hotel feels like tucking away into a inviting retreat by the water—the views are stunning and the lighting is perfect. All rooms have a gas fireplace, and many have balconies with bay views at this stylish small hotel in downtown Tiburon. Furnishings are chic and modern in cocoa and cream colors; down comforters and high-thread-count linens make the beds deliciously comfortable. High-vaulted ceilings show off the carefully placed, Asian-influenced objects, which line the hallways and front living room area. TIP In the morning, breakfast is delivered to your door, but take your coffee outside to the giant communal sundeck over the water; the south-facing views of San Francisco Bay are incredible. Pros: complimentary wine and cheese for guests every evening; restaurants/sights are minutes away; free bike rentals for guests. Cons: except for breakfast delivery, no room service; fitness center is off-site; not a great place to bring small children. TripAdvisor: “just about perfect,” “a beautiful haven,” “comfortable and relaxing.” | Rooms from: $209 | 25 Main St. off Tiburon Blvd. | 94920 | 415/789–5999, 877/789–5999 | www.marinhotels.com | 23 rooms.

Shopping in Tiburon

The Candy Store on Main Street.
This store is every child’s (and many adults’) dream come true, with rows of fresh homemade fudge, barrels of rainbow-colored jelly beans, and neat boxes of truffles with pin-striped ribbons. A train in the window drives figure eights through chocolate mountains and around M&M houses. | 7 Main St. at Tiburon Blvd. | 94920 | 415/435–0434.

Nasimiyu.
The beaded jewelry sold here—necklaces, earrings, and bracelets—is big, vibrant, and very colorful. The shop’s namesake owner, Nasimiyu Wekesa, who greets all customers with her warm smile, draws inspiration from her African heritage, making her crafts not just something to wear but also to be proud of. | 80D Main St. | 415/435–3429.

Ruth Livingston Studio.
The namesake owner of this design showcase and walk-in shop will greet you and explain the concepts behind her neo-modern pieces. Find everything from striking vases to one-of-a-kind furniture. | 74 Main St. | 94920 | 415/435–5264.

Schoenberg Guitars.
Small, narrow, and chockablock with handmade guitars, this shop is a treat even for those who don’t play music. Dozens, if not hundreds, of guitars varying in size, shape, and color hang from the walls and stand against the polished wood floor. There is an organized beauty to the layout of this place and a comforting sense of musical harmony. | 106 Main St. | 94920 | 415/789–0846.

Mill Valley

2 miles north of Sausalito, 4 miles north of Golden Gate Bridge.

Chic and woodsy Mill Valley has a dual personality. Here, as elsewhere in the county, the foundation is a superb natural setting. Virtually surrounded by parkland, the town lies at the base of Mt. Tamalpais and contains dense redwood groves traversed by countless creeks. But this is no lumber camp. Smart restaurants and chichi boutiques line the streets, and more rock stars than one might suspect live here.

The rustic village flavor is not a modern conceit but a holdover from the town’s early days as a logging camp. In 1896 the Mill Valley and Mt. Tamalpais Scenic Railroad—called “the crookedest railroad in the world” because of its curvy tracks—began transporting visitors from Mill Valley to the top of Mt. Tam and down to Muir Woods, and the town soon became a vacation retreat for city slickers. The trains stopped running in the 1940s, but you can see the old railway depot: the 1924 building has been transformed into the popular Depot Bookstore & Cafe, at 87 Throckmorton Avenue.

The small downtown area has the constant bustle of a leisure community; even at noon on a Tuesday, people are out shopping for fancy cookware and lacy pajamas.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Mill Valley Chamber of Commerce.
85 Throckmorton Ave. | 94941 | 415/388–9700 |
www.millvalley.org.

Getting Here and Around

By car, from San Francisco head north on U.S. 101 and get off at CA 131/Tiburon Boulevard/East Blithedale Avenue (Exit 447). Turn left onto East Blithedale and continue west to Throckmorton Avenue; turn left to reach Lytton Square, then park. Golden Gate Transit bus 4 leaves for Mill Valley from 8th and Folsom streets in San Francisco every 30 minutes during commute hours. Once here, explore the town on foot; it’s great for strolling.

Exploring Mill Valley

Lytton Square.
Mill Valley locals congregate on weekends to socialize in the many coffeehouses near the town’s central square, but it bustles most any time of day. Shops, restaurants, and cultural venues line the nearby streets. | Miller and Throckmorton Aves..

Off the Beaten Path: Marin County Civic Center. This wonder of arches, circles, and skylights was Frank Lloyd Wright’s last major architectural undertaking. You can wander about on your own or take a docent-led tour of the complex. Tours ($5) leave from the gift shop, on the second floor, on Wednesday mornings at 10:30. If you can’t make it on a Wednesday, pick up the self-guided tour map for 50¢ at the gift shop. Don’t miss the photographs on the first floor, which show Marin County homes designed by Wright. There’s also an excellent California library here for bibliophiles and oral-history buffs. | 3501 Civic Center Dr. off N. San Pedro Rd. | San Rafael | 94903 | 415/499–7009 | Free | Weekdays 8–5.

Old Mill Park.
To see one of the numerous outdoor oases that make Mill Valley so appealing, follow Throckmorton Avenue ¼ mile west from Lytton Square to Old Mill Park, a shady patch of redwoods that shelters a playground and reconstructed sawmill. From the park, Cascade Way winds its way past creek-side homes to the trailheads of several forest paths. | Throckmorton Ave. and Cascade Dr. | 94941.

Where to Eat in Mill Valley

The Balboa Café.
$$$ | AMERICAN | With intimate lighting, rich wood accents, and fresh-pressed white linens, this café offers an upscale dining experience. The bar is so busy that you’ll be lucky if your elbow gets anywhere near it. Although the cocktails aren’t as stiff as their price tags, the food is creative, local, and beautifully presented. Try the Black Angus rib eye, wild-mushroom risotto, or seared sea scallops—and be sure to save room for the blueberry brioche bread pudding. The extensive wine list includes a few wines from Marin County. | Average main: $26 | 38 Miller Ave. at Sunnyside Ave. | 94941 | 415/381–7321 | Reservations essential.

Buckeye Roadhouse.
$$$ | AMERICAN | This is Mill Valley’s secret den of decadence, where house-smoked meats and fish, grilled steaks, and old-fashioned dishes such as brisket bring the locals coming back for more. The restaurant also serves beautiful organic, locally grown salads and desserts so heavenly—like the rich but light crème brûlée—you’ll just about melt into the floor. The look of the 1937 roadhouse is decidedly hunting-lodge chic, with trophy heads and a river-rock fireplace dominating one wall. Marin County’s Jaguar-driving bon vivants pack the place every night. The busy but cozy bar with elegant mahogany paneling and soft lighting is a good place to quench your thirst for a Marin martini or Californian Merlot. | Average main: $23 | 15 Shoreline Hwy. off U.S. 101 | 94941 | 415/331–2600 | Reservations essential.

Bungalow 44.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Banana plants and tropical lighting set the mood at this glowing space that serves Californian comfort and glistening cocktails (the restaurant is as popular for its bar as it is for its food). The dance of flames is everywhere—in the crackling dining-room fireplace, and the kitchen’s wood oven. House specialties include goat-cheese ravioli in a tomato vodka sauce, fried chicken with local-honey coleslaw, and braised short ribs with horseradish cream. In nice weather, you can eat outdoors. | Average main: $21 | 44 E. Blithedale Ave. at Sunnyside Ave. | 415/381–2500 | www.bungalow44.com.

Champagne.
$ | FRENCH | This adorable little bakery/café on Mill Valley’s main shopping street is a nice place to pop into for breakfast, a light lunch, dinner, or afternoon pick-me-up. Filled with light, authentic French decor and only a dozen tables, Champagne serves amazing crepes with roasted chicken, creamed spinach, and Swiss cheese, as well as an assortment of savory flat breads—try the pesto-and-tomato version. It’s a popular place for breakfast, too. The perennial favorite: brioche French toast with bacon. The afternoon crowd chats over cappuccinos, raspberry-almond croissants, and meringue cookies. | Average main: $11 | 41 Throckmorton Ave. at Miller Ave. | 94941 | 415/380–0410.

The Dipsea Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | There is no better place for breakfast than the Dipsea, which is named after the gorgeous trail that stretches from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach. Locals crowd its cozy interior most mornings, but weekends are especially popular. Choose from huge plates of French toast, eggs Benedict, and huevos rancheros; the homemade fries and jam that accompany the breakfast entrées are to die for. The café also serves hearty lunches and dinners, like the Chinese salad with seared salmon and the enormous BLTs. After 4 pm you can order from the Greek-influenced menu. This is a great spot to fuel up on your way to or from Muir Woods and Stinson Beach. | Average main: $14 | 200 Shoreline Hwy. west of Tennessee Valley Rd. | 94941 415/381–0298 | No dinner Mon.–Tues.

Fodor’s Choice | El Paseo House of Chops.
$$$ | CONTEMPORARY | Chef Tyler Florence and rocker Sammy Hagar teamed up to restore El Paseo, which was established in 1947 and remains the place for a romantic and culinary night out. You’ll feel as if you’re on one of Spain’s tiny cobbled lanes as you enter the secluded brick walkway that wraps around a candlelit dining room. If you reserve well in advance you can sit in the bougainvillea-framed courtyard, but the dining room casts its own atmospheric charms, with soft leather chairs, white tablecloths, and dark wooden walls. And then there’s Tyler Florence’s famous seasonal Californian cuisine. The spinach-and-artichoke dip is rich and full of fresh flavors, as is the bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin with spiced-apple pulp and glazed turnips. Don’t overlook the decadent desserts. | Average main: $30 | 17 Throckmorton Ave. at E. Blithedale Ave. | 94941 | 415/388–0741 | Reservations essential | No lunch.

Joe’s Taco Lounge.
$ | MEXICAN | A funky, bright lounge (and it really does feel like someone’s lounge), this is a fun place to go for a casual, cheap, and delicious Mexican meal. There are all sorts of colorful relics on the walls, and chili-pepper lights adorn the windows. The signature dishes are fish tacos and snapper burritos—which are generous in both size and flavor. The organic burger with spicy fries and the fire-grilled corn on the cob are also yummy. Choose from a wide selection of Mexican beers, or go for a refreshing wine-based margarita. Between 5 and 7 pm, his place is popular with families. | Average main: $11 | 382 Miller Ave. and Montford Ave. | 94941 | 415/383–8164.

La Ginestra.
$$ | ITALIAN | In business since 1964, La Ginestra is a Mill Valley institution renowned for its no-pretense, family-style Italian meals—the greatest hits include thin-crusted pizzas, homemade pastas, breaded veal, and chicken with artichokes—and impressive wine list. An adorable little bar sits off to the side of the dining room, just right for a martini or two and a plate of antipasto. | Average main: $19 | 127 Throckmorton Ave. at Miller Ave. | 415/388–0224 | No lunch. Closed Mon.

Left Bank Brasserie.
$$ | FRENCH | Provincial France meets Northern California at this convivial, bustling brasserie with a gigantic stone hearth and whimsical French posters. The menu packs in hearty dishes such as bouillabaisse, braised oxtail with homemade noodles, steak and french fries, and a succulent fondue of local goat, Brie, and blue cheeses. For dessert, you’ll have to go to Lyon to find better profiteroles. The service can be erratic, and the plank floors and high ceilings can make things noisy, but this place is fun. TIP For quieter conversation and maximum romance, sit outside on the wraparound veranda. | Average main: $21 | 507 Magnolia Ave. at Ward St. Larkspur | 94939 | 415/927–3331 | www.leftbank.com/home_larkspur.

Pearl’s Phat Burgers.
$ | BURGER | Families, couples, and teenagers flock to Pearl’s for juicy, grass-fed organic burgers stacked high with tomatoes, lettuce, bacon, and cheese; sweet-potato fries that are not too crispy and not too soft; and thick, creamy milkshakes. The food here is among the freshest, biggest, and fastest in town. No wonder there’s always a line out the door. | Average main: $9 | 8 E. Blithedale Ave. at Sunnyside Ave. | 415/381–6010 | www.pearlsdeluxe.com.

Piazza D’Angelo.
$$ | ITALIAN | In the heart of downtown, busy D’Angelo’s is known for its osso buco and veal saltimbocca, as well as pastas and delicious crème brûlée. The food is authentic and fresh, but another draw is the scene, especially in the lounge area, which hosts a lively cocktail hour packed with beautiful people and serves food until 10 or 11 pm—late for Mill Valley. The sprawling space encompasses a bright front room, romantic booths, and a warm patio. | Average main: $21 | 22 Miller Ave. near Sunnyside Ave. 94941 | 415/388–2000 | www.piazzadangelo.com.

Picco.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | If you’re in the mood for fantastically original food and feeling slyly glamorous, head to Picco, which prides itself on its “exotic organic flavors” and “dangerous cocktails.” Dramatic lighting and modernist decor set the stage. The food shines, from a plate of miniburgers with sautéed onions and Point Reyes blue cheese to artfully presented roasted vegetables. TIP If there’s a long wait, start with small dishes at the bar or try the Picco Pizzeria and Wineshop next door. | Average main: $24 | 320 Magnolia Ave. | 94939 | 415/924–0300 | Reservations essential.

Tavern at Lark Creek.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Occupying a refurbished 100-year-old house surrounded by lush, mature gardens and towering redwoods, this is one of Marin’s prettiest—and best—restaurants, especially for Sunday brunch. The chefs use top-notch meats and organic produce from local farmers whenever possible. The Caesar salad, a house favorite, is succulently presented with whole leaf spears. Butterscotch pudding, the signature dessert, sounds humble, but has deep flavor. Sit outside on the patio or inside the country-elegant dining room beneath a dramatic greenhouse ceiling. Be mindful that all this beauty of place and its plates comes at a price. | Average main: $30 | 234 Magnolia Ave. at Madrone Ave. | Larkspur | 94939 | 415/924–7766 | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon.–Sat.

Where to Stay in Mill Valley

Acqua Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | Astride Richardson Bay, this boutique hotel has modern, elegant rooms decorated in deep purples and classic golds. Rooms facing west have full bay views (some rooms even have views of Mt. Tamalpais) and private patios. The junior suites have soaking tubs and fireplaces. Pros: evening cookie hour; complimentary bikes; hearty breakfast. Cons: next to freeway; traffic audible in rooms facing east. TripAdvisor: “beautiful view and walking path,” “nice amenities,” “well located and clean design.” | Rooms from: $189 | 555 Redwood Hwy. off U.S. 101 | 415/388–9353 | www.marinhotels.com | 49 rooms | Breakfast.

Larkspur Hotel.
$ | HOTEL | In the shadow of Mount Tamalpais and practically surrounded by water, the Larkspur Hotel is central to Marin’s attractions. The rooms are fresh and bright, with new linens and decor—think royal blues and soft yellows—and each room has its own patio. The outdoor pool is a reasonable size, and the private cabanas are a nice touch. There’s also a fire pit to keep guests warm on those foggy summer nights. Pros: central location; complimentary breakfast; popular restaurant (Frantoio) next door. Cons: hallway is disorienting; lobby is cold; new-carpet smell lingers in the air. TripAdvisor: “pleasant staff,” “nice rooms,” “an oasis of quiet.” | Rooms from: $149 | 160 Shoreline Hwy at U.S. 101 | 415/332–5700 | www.larkspurhotels.com/larkspur-hotels/mill-valley | 100 rooms | Breakfast.

Mill Valley Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | The only hotel in downtown Mill Valley has smart-looking rooms done up in Tuscan colors of ocher and olive, with handcrafted beds, armoires, and lamps by local artisans. Beds are made with crisp white linens, starkly contrasting the deep browns and greens of the towering redwoods just outside the windows. A complimentary wine reception takes place every evening on the sun terrace. The cottages in the back of the hotel are something special. Pros: minutes from local shops and restaurants; great complimentary Continental breakfast. Cons: dark in winter because of surrounding trees; some rooms are not accessible via elevator; no in-room coffeemakers. TripAdvisor: “awesome gem in Mill Valley,” “personal service with care,” “nice hotel in a gorgeous area.” | Rooms from: $239 | 165 Throckmorton Ave. near Miller Ave. | 94941 | 415/389–6608, 800/595–2100 | www.marinhotels.com | 25 rooms, 1 suite, 2 cottages | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Mountain Home Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Abutting 40,000 acres of state and national parks, the inn sits on the skirt of Mt. Tamalpais, where you can follow hiking trails all the way to Stinson Beach. The inn’s multilevel, airy wooden building has pristine wilderness on one side and an unparalleled view of the bay on the other. Rooms are built for romance, each mixing huge views with some combination of balcony, fireplace, and whirlpool tub. TIP For full-moon nights, book far in advance. The on-site wine bar and dining room (closed Monday and Tuesday) serves lunch on the deck (May to October) and a terrific $38 prix-fixe dinner of American regional cuisine inside by the fire. The restaurant (reservations recommended) serves sumptuous meals with spectacular views. Top your Niman Ranch beef burger with caramelized onions, roasted red peppers, local blue cheese, or other options. There’s a late-afternoon American cheese–tasting course, as well as an après-trek menu of small plates for hungry hikers. Dinner features modern riffs on classic American fare. Pros: amazing deck and views; peaceful, remote setting. Cons: nearest town is a 20-minute drive away; restaurant can get crowded on sunny weekend days. TripAdvisor: “brilliant location and restaurant,” “stunning view and tranquil setting,” “outstanding service.” | Rooms from: $279 | 810 Panoramic Hwy. at Edgewood Ave. | 94941 | 415/381–9000 | www.mtnhomeinn.com | 10 rooms | Breakfast.

Nightlife and the Arts in Mill Valley

142 Throckmorton Theatre.
This ultra-quirky venue presents plays, musical acts, and comedy shows, along with visual and related arts. Top events include the DjangoFest Mill Valley, celebrating the gypsy-jazz artist Django Reinhardt; a film series hosted by comedian Mort Sahl; and the annual Writers with Attitude festival of short-play readings. Stunning murals cover the theater’s ceiling, and the foyer has on old-fashioned popcorn maker. | 142 Throckmorton Ave. at Madrona St. | 415/383–9600 | www.142throckmortontheatre.com.

Beerworks.
A fine place to rest your feet after shopping or hiking, Beerworks serves more than 100 local, national, and international beers, from ale to port to lager. For food, you’ll find cheese plates, olives, homemade pretzels, and sandwiches. | 173 Throckmorton Ave. at Madrona St. | 94941 | 415/336–3596 | millvalleybeerworks.com.

Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival.
The festival takes place in mid-September in Old Mill Park, with live music, a kids’ stage, and artisans selling crafts, jewelry, and art. | Old Mill Park Throckmorton Ave. and Cascade Dr. | 94941 | 415/381–8090 | www.mvfaf.org.

Mill Valley Film Festival.
The well-regarded festival, held annually in early October, shows everything from features and documentaries to experimental works. | Sequoia Theater 25 Throckmorton Ave. near W. Blithedale Ave. | 415/383–5256 | www.mvff.com.

Sweetwater Saloon.
With the help of part-owner Bob Weir of the Grateful Dead, this renowned club reopened in an old Masonic Hall. The location may be new, but the Sweetwater’s reputation as the best music club and bar in Marin remains. In its former life it hosted the likes of John Lee Hooker and Jerry Garcia. Today, famous as well as up-and-coming bands play nightly, and local stars such as Bonnie Raitt and Huey Lewis have been known to stop in for a pickup session. | 19 Corte Madera Ave. between Throckmorton and Lovell Aves. | 94941 | 415/388–3850.

Shopping in Mill Valley

The area around Throckmorton Avenue downtown brims with stylish and quirky stores, indies as well as chains.

Book Passage.
This sprawling independent bookstore north of Mill Valley in Corte Madera is beloved for its many author events, with readings by notables like Alice Walker, Val McDermid, Michael Connelly, and Peter Mayle. Coffee and snacks are available at the in-store café. | The Marketplace 51 Tamal Vista Blvd. between Madera Blvd. and Wornum Dr. | Corte Madera | 94925 415/927–0960, 800/999–7909.

Jaylina’s.
Budget fashionistas flock to this chic consignment store, where Prada dresses, Seven jeans, even Chanel bags sell for reasonable prices. The items are carefully selected and easy to find; no need to rummage through crowded racks. | 19 E. Blithedale Ave. at Throckmorton Ave. | 94941 | 415/388–4682.

Summer House.
All sorts of surprises pile up here. For the home: furniture, lavish pillows, and decorative objects. For the body: scented potions and soaps. To decorate both: stunning jewelry, tableware, and tempting shirts. | 21 Throckmorton Ave. at W. Blithedale Ave. | 94941 | 415/383–6695.

Tyler Florence Shop.
Stock up here on everything you need for cooking—the celebrity chef’s shop has the works, from chicken-shape hard-boiled-egg holders to copper frying pans. If you want to escape into one of Florence’s many cookbooks, there’s a library in back with leather sofas. | 59 Throckmorton Ave. at Corte Madera Ave. | 94941 | 415/380–9200.

The Marin Headlands

Due west of the Golden Gate Bridge’s northern end.

The term “Golden Gate” may now be synonymous with the world-famous bridge, but it originally referred to the grassy, poppy-strewn hills flanking the passageway into San Francisco Bay. To the north of the gate lie the Marin Headlands, part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA) and the most dramatic scenery in these parts. Windswept hills plunge down to the ocean, and creek-fed thickets shelter swaying wildflowers.

The headlands stretch from the Golden Gate Bridge to Muir Beach. Photographers perch on the southern headlands for shots of the city, with the bridge in the foreground and the skyline on the horizon. Equally remarkable are the views north along the coast and out to sea, where the Farallon Islands are visible on clear days. TIP Almost any of the roads, all very windy, offer great coast views, especially as you drive at higher elevations.

The headlands’ strategic position at the mouth of San Francisco Bay made them a logical site for World War II military installations. Today you can explore the crumbling concrete batteries where naval guns protected the approaches from the sea. The headlands’ main attractions are centered on Forts Barry and Cronkhite, which lie just across Rodeo Lagoon from each other. Fronting the lagoon is Rodeo Beach, a dark stretch of sand that attracts sand-castle builders and dog owners.

TIP Note: The beaches at the Marin Headlands are not safe for swimming. The giant cliffs are steep and unstable, so hiking down them can be dangerous. Stay on trails.

Getting Here and Around

Driving from San Francisco, head north on U.S. 101. Just after you cross the Golden Gate Bridge, take the Alexander Avenue exit. From there take the first left (signs read “San Francisco/U.S. 101 South”), go through the tunnel under the freeway, and turn right up the hill where the sign reads: “Forts Barry and Cronkhite.” The MuniBus 76 runs hourly from 4th and Townsend streets to the Marin Headlands Visitor Center on Sunday and major holidays only. Once here, you can explore this beautiful countryside on foot.

Exploring The Marin Headlands

Green Gulch Zen Center.
Giant eucalyptus trees frame the long winding road that leads to this tranquil retreat. There are mediation programs on Sunday, workshops, and events, as well as an extensive organic garden. Visitors are welcome to roam freely through the acres of gardens that reach down toward Muir Beach. If you follow the main dirt road it will take you to a walking path that brings you to the beach. It’s a peaceful walk surrounded by trees, birds, and the ocean breeze. | 1601 Shoreline Hwy. at Green Gulch Rd. | Muir Beach | 94965 | 415/383–3134 |
www.sfzc.org | Free | Tues.–Sat. 9–noon and 2–4, Sun. 9–10 am.

Hawk Hill.
Craggy Hawk Hill is the best place on the West Coast to watch the September-through-November migration of eagles, hawks, and falcons as they fly south for winter. As many as one thousand have been sighted in a single day. The viewing area is about 2 miles up Conzelman Road from U.S. 101; look for a Hawk Hill sign, right before the road becomes one way.

Golden Gate Raptor Observatory. In September and October, on rain- and fog-free weekends at noon, the folks from the Golden Gate Raptor Observatory give free lectures on Hawk Hill about the birds; a raptor-banding demonstration follows at 1. | Building 201 Fort Mason | 94123 | 415/331–0730 | www.ggro.org.

Headlands Center for the Arts.
The center’s main building, formerly the barracks, exhibits contemporary art in a rustic natural setting; the downstairs “archive room” contains objects found and created by residents, such as natural rocks, interesting glass bottles filled with collected items, and unusual masks. Stop by the industrial gallery space, two flights up, to see what the resident visual artists are up to—most of the work is quite contemporary. | Fort Barry Field and Bunker Rds. Bldg. 944 | 94965 | 415/331–2787 | www.headlands.org | Weekdays 10–5, Sun. noon–5.

Marin Headlands Visitor Center.
Open daily 9:30–4:30, the center sells a guide to historic sites and wildlife and has exhibits on the area’s history and ecology. Pick up the park newspaper for a schedule of guided walks. Kids will enjoy the “please touch” educational sites and small play area inside. | Fort Barry Field and Bunker Rds. Bldg. 948 | 94965 | 415/331–1540 | www.nps.gov/goga/marin-headlands.htm.

Marine Mammal Center.
If you’re curious about the rehabilitation of sea life in the Pacific, stop by this hospital for rescued seals, sea lions, dolphins, and otters. You can glimpse the mammals convalescing in the pool out front, then visit the small gift shop. | Fort Cronkhite 2000 Bunker Rd. off U.S. 101’s Alexander Ave. exit | Sausalito | 94965 | 415/289–7325 | www.marinemammalcenter.org | Free | Daily 10–5.

Muir Beach.
Small but scenic, this beach—a rocky patch of shoreline off Highway 1 in the northern headlands—is a good place to stretch your legs and gaze out at the Pacific. Locals often walk their dogs here; families and cuddling couples come for picnicking and sunbathing. At one end of the sand is a cluster of waterfront homes, and at the other are the bluffs of Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The beach itself has an interesting history. Janis Joplin’s ashes were scattered here among the sands, and this is where author Ken Kesey hosted the second of his famed Acid Tests. | 190 Pacific Way off Shoreline Highway | Muir Beach | www.parksconservancy.org/visit/park-sites/muir-beach.html.

Nike Missile Site.
For a look at a relatively recent episode in the area’s military history, head to the now defunct Nike Missile Site, above Fort Barry, which is the only accessible site of its kind in the United States. It gives you a firsthand view of menacing Hercules missiles and missile-tracking radar. On the first Sunday of each month informative tours are conducted at both the missile site and the military barracks at Fort Cronkhite. The site is closed to the public in inclement weather, so call ahead to confirm open hours. | Field Rd., off Bunker Hill Rd. | 94965 | 415/331–1453, 415/331–1540 | www.nps.gov/goga/nike-missile-site.htm | Free | Wed.–Fri. 12:30–3:30.

Point Bonita Lighthouse.
At the end of Conzelman Road, in the southern headlands, is the Point Bonita Lighthouse, a restored beauty that still guides ships to safety with its original 1855 refractory lens. Half the fun of a visit is the steep ½-mile walk from the parking area down to the lighthouse, which takes you through a rock tunnel and across a suspension bridge. Signposts along the way detail the bravado of surfmen, as the early lifeguards were called, and the tenacity of the “wickies,” the first keepers of the light. | End of Conzelman Rd. | 94965 | Free | Sat.–Mon. 12:30–3:30.

Where to Stay in The Marin Headlands

Marin Headlands Hostel.
$ | As hostels go, it’s hard to beat this beautifully situated, well-maintained property in a valley on the north side of the headlands, the only lodging in the GGNRA that isn’t a campsite. Accommodations, inside the old military infirmary, consist of private rooms with space for up to five, or shared dorm-style rooms that sleep 6 to 22 people in bunk beds. Cook your own food in the communal kitchen and eat at a table in the giant common area near the woodstove; big windows look out onto stands of pine and eucalyptus. Couples can share rooms in a separate two-story house made cozy with couches in some rooms, comfortable wooden tables, and forest views. Don’t miss the map of the world, which reaches over a corner and across two walls in the main house. Pros: plenty of peace and quiet; Wi-Fi; rural setting. Cons: difficult to get to without a car or bike; no regular shuttle service; far from restaurants and shops. TripAdvisor: “very peaceful,” “gorgeous location and cute rustic accommodations,” “wonderful community space.” | Rooms from: $25 | 941 Fort Barry | 94965 | 415/331–2777 | www.norcalhostels.org/marin | 7 private rooms, 8 dormitory rooms; all with shared bath.

Pelican Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | From its slate roof to its whitewashed plaster walls, this inn looks so Tudor that it’s hard to believe it was built in the 1970s. The Pelican is English to the core, with its smallish guest rooms upstairs (no elevator), high half-tester beds draped in heavy fabrics, and bangers and grilled tomatoes for breakfast. Downstairs, the little pub pours ales and ports, and “the Snug” is a private fireplace lounge for overnight guests. At dinner in the tavernlike or solarium dining rooms ($$–$$$), keep it simple with fish-and-chips, roasted hen, or prime rib, and focus on the well-crafted wine list. Lunch is served, too . . . a good thing, since your nearest alternatives are miles away via slow, winding roads. Pros: five-minute walk to beach; great bar and restaurant; peaceful setting. Cons: 20-minute drive to nearby attractions; no Wi-Fi or wheelchair access to bedrooms. TripAdvisor: “quaint inn with lots of charm,” “very British,” “fantastic getaway.” |Rooms from: $210 | 10 Pacific Way off Hwy. 1 | Muir Beach | 94965 | 415/383–6000 | www.pelicaninn.com | 7 rooms | Breakfast.

Muir Woods National Monument

12 miles northwest of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Getting Here and Around

To get here from San Francisco by car, take U.S. 101 north across the Golden Gate Bridge to the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach exit, then follow signs to Highway 1 north. On weekends and holidays, Memorial Day through Labor Day, Golden Gate Transit operates a shuttle ($3 round-trip) from Mill Valley every half hour. Park in Marin City at the Gateway Shopping Center (look for lighted signs directing you from U.S. 101) or at the Manzanita Park-and-Ride, at the Highway 1 exit off U.S. 101 (look for the lot under the elevated freeway), or take connecting bus service from San Francisco with Golden Gate Transit. Once here, you can wander by foot through this pristine patch of nature.

Exploring Muir Woods National Monument

Fodor’s Choice | Muir Woods National Monument.
One hundred fifty million years ago, ancestors of redwood and sequoia trees grew throughout the United States. Today the Sequoia sempervirens can be found only in a narrow, cool coastal belt from Monterey to Oregon. The 550 acres of Muir Woods National Monument contain some of the most majestic redwoods in the world—some nearly 250 feet tall and 1,000 years old. The stand was saved from destruction in 1905, when it was purchased by a couple who donated it to the federal government. Three years later it was named after naturalist John Muir, whose environmental campaigns helped to establish the national park system. His response: “Saving these woods from the ax and saw is in many ways the most notable service to God and man I have heard of since my forest wandering began.”

Muir Woods, part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, is a pedestrian’s park. The trails vary in difficulty and length. Beginning from the park headquarters, a 2-mile, wheelchair-accessible loop trail crosses streams and passes ferns and azaleas, as well as magnificent redwood groves. Among the most famous are Bohemian Grove and the circular formation called Cathedral Grove. On summer weekends, visitors oohing and aahing in a dozen languages line the trail. If you prefer a little serenity, consider the challenging Dipsea Trail, which climbs west from the forest floor to soothing views of the ocean and the Golden Gate Bridge. For a complete list of trails, check with rangers, who can also help you pick the best one for your ability level.

TIP The weather in Muir Woods is usually cool and often wet, so wear warm clothes and shoes appropriate for damp trails. Picnicking and camping aren’t allowed, and pets aren’t permitted. Parking can be difficult here—the lots are small and the crowds are large—so try to come early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The fine Muir Woods Visitor Center has books and exhibits about redwood trees and the woods’ history. | 1 Muir Woods Trail off Panoramic Hwy. | Mill Valley | 94941 | 415/388–2595 park information, 415/925–4501 shuttle information | www.nps.gov/muwo | $7 | Daily 8 am–sunset.

Mt. Tamalpais State Park

16 miles northwest of Golden Gate Bridge.

Getting Here and Around

By car, take the Highway 1–Stinson Beach exit off U.S. 101 and follow the road west and then north. From San Francisco the trip can take from 30 minutes up to an hour, depending on traffic. By bus, take the 10, 70 or 80 to Marin City; in Marin City transfer to the West Marin Stagecoach (415/226–0855 | www.marintransit.org/stage.html). Once here, the only way to explore is on foot or by bike.

Exploring Mt. Tamalpais State Park

Mt. Tamalpais State Park.
Although the summit of Mt. Tamalpais is only 2,571 feet high, the mountain rises practically from sea level, dominating the topography of Marin County. Adjacent to Muir Woods National Monument, Mt. Tamalpais State Park affords views of the entire Bay Area and the Pacific Ocean to the west. The mountain was sacred to Native Americans, who saw in its profile—as you can see today—the silhouette of a sleeping Indian maiden. Locals fondly refer to it as the “Sleeping Lady.” For years the 6,300-acre park has been a favorite destination for hikers. There are more than 200 miles of trails, some rugged but many developed for easy walking through meadows, grasslands, and forests and along creeks. Mt. Tam, as it’s called by locals, is also the birthplace (in the 1970s) of mountain biking, and today many spandex-clad bikers whiz down the park’s winding roads.

The park’s major thoroughfare, the Panoramic Highway, snakes its way up from U.S. 101 to the Pantoll Ranger Station (Pantoll Rd.). The office is staffed sporadically, depending on funding. From the ranger station, the Panoramic Highway drops down to the town of Stinson Beach. Pantoll Road branches off the highway at the station, connecting up with Ridgecrest Boulevard. Along these roads are numerous parking areas, picnic spots, scenic overlooks, and trailheads. Parking is free along the roadside, but there’s a fee at the ranger station and at some of the other parking lots.

The Mountain Theater (Richardson Blvd. off Panoramic Hwy.), also known as the Cushing Memorial Amphitheatre, is a natural amphitheater with terraced stone seats (for nearly 4,000 people) constructed in its current form by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s.

The Rock Spring Trail starts at the Mountain Theater and gently climbs about 1¾ mile to the West Point Inn, once a stop on the Mt. Tam railroad route. Relax at a picnic table and stock up on water before forging ahead, via Old Railroad Grade Fire Road and the Miller Trail, to Mt. Tam’s Middle Peak, about 2 miles uphill.

Starting from the Pan Toll Ranger Station, the precipitous Steep Ravine Trail brings you past stands of coastal redwoods and, in the springtime, numerous small waterfalls. Take the connecting Dipsea Trail to reach the town of Stinson Beach and its swath of golden sand. If you’re too weary to make the 3½-mile trek back up, Golden Gate Transit Bus 63 (Saturday, Sunday, and holidays from mid-March through early December) takes you from Stinson Beach back to the ranger station. | Pantoll Ranger Station 3801 Panoramic Hwy. at Pantoll Rd. | 94941 | 415/388–2070 | www.parks.ca.gov.

Nightlife and the Arts in Mt. Tamalpais State Park

Mountain Play.
Every May and June, locals tote overstuffed picnic baskets to the Mountain Theater to see the Mountain Play, popular musicals such as The Music Man and My Fair Lady. Depending on the play, this can be a great family activity. Summer 2013 marks the 100th anniversary of this Bay Area tradition. | Richardson Blvd. off Panoramic Hwy. | 94941 | 415/383–1100 | www.mountainplay.org | $40.

Stinson Beach

20 miles northwest of Golden Gate Bridge.

Getting Here and Around

If you’re driving, take the Highway 1–Stinson Beach exit off U.S. 101 and follow the road west and then north. The journey from San Francisco can take from 35 minutes to more than an hour, depending on traffic. By bus, take the 10, 70, or 80 to Marin City; in Marin City transfer to the West Marin Stagecoach. The intimate town is perfect for casual walking.

Exploring Stinson Beach

Stinson Beach.
Stinson Beach is the most expansive stretch of sand in Marin County. It’s as close (when the fog hasn’t rolled in) as you can get to the stereotypical feel of a Southern California beach. TIP Swimming here is recommended only from early May through September, when lifeguards are on duty, because the undertow can be strong and shark sightings, although infrequent, aren’t unusual. There are several clothing-optional areas (such as Red Rock Beach). On any hot summer weekend, every road to Stinson Beach is jam-packed, so factor this into your plans. The town itself is down to earth—like tonier Mill Valley, but more relaxed. | 1 Calle Del Sierra off Shoreline Hwy. 1 | 94970.

Where to Eat and Stay in Stinson Beach

Parkside Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | The Parkside is popular for its beachfront snack bar (cash only), but inside is Stinson’s best restaurant, with classic Cal-cuisine offerings such as the day-boat-scallop and ceviche appetizers, and mains like the lamb with goat-cheese-stuffed red peppers. Breakfast is served until 2 pm. Creeping vines on the sunny patio shelter diners from the wind; for a cozier atmosphere eat by the fire in the dining room. | Average main: $20 | 43 Arenal Ave. off Shoreline Hwy. 1 | 94970 | 415/868–1272.

Sand Dollar.
$ | AMERICAN | The town’s oldest restaurant still attracts all the old salts from Muir Beach to Bolinas, but these days they sip whiskey over an up-to-date bar or beneath market umbrellas on the spiffy deck. The food is good—try the panfried sand dabs (small flatfish) and pear salad with blue cheese—but the big draw is the lively atmosphere. Musicians play on weekends in summer, and on sunny afternoons the deck gets so packed that people sit on the fence rails sipping beer. | Average main: $13 | 3458 Shoreline Hwy. | 94970 | 415/868–0434 | No lunch Tues. Nov.–Mar.

The Sandpiper.
$$ | B&B/INN | Recharge, rest, and enjoy the local scenery at this ultra-popular lodging that books up months, even years, in advance. In addition to the pristine motel rooms, there are four adorable cabins with fireplaces. Some rooms have kitchenettes. Pros: bright rooms; lush gardens; minutes from the beach. Cons: not exactly on the beach; walls are thin. TripAdvisor: “hospitable,” “ideal spot for quiet beach vacation,” “peaceful getaway.” Rooms from: $180 | 1 Marine Way at Arenal Ave. | 415/868–1632 |
www.sandpiperstinsonbeach.com | 10 rooms.

Stinson Beach Motel.
$$ | B&B/INN | Built in the 1930s, this motel surrounds three courtyards that burst with flowering greenery, and rooms are immaculate, simple, and summery, with freshly painted walls, good mattresses, and some kitchenettes. The motel is on the main drag, so it’s convenient to everything in town, but it can get loud on busy summer weekend days. TIP Room 3 has the most privacy, though all rooms face a central courtyard, not the street. Weekday room rates ($95–$175) are a bargain for the north coast. Pros: minutes from the beach; cozy, unpretentious rooms. Cons: smaller rooms feel cramped; some of the linens need replacing; spotty Wi-Fi. TripAdvisor: “great place,” “bring your sense of humor,” “tiny but nice rooms.” | Rooms from: $170 | 3416 Shoreline Hwy. 1 | 94970 | 415/868–1712 | www.stinsonbeachmotel.com | 7 rooms.

En Route | Audubon Canyon Ranch. Audubon Canyon Ranch, a 1,000-acre wildlife sanctuary along the Bolinas Lagoon, gets the most traffic during late spring, when great blue herons and egrets nest in the evergreens covering the hillside. It’s a spectacular sight to see these large birds in white and gray, dotting the tops of the trees. Quiet trails through the rest of the preserve offer tremendous vistas of the Bolinas Lagoon and Stinson Beach and fabulous birding. Access to these areas is available only on guided nature walks, well worth it if you can get a space. A small museum, open all year, surveys the region’s geology and natural history. | 4900 Shoreline Hwy. 1 between Stinson Beach and Bolinas | 94970 | 415/868–9244 www.egret.org | $10 suggested donation | Mid-Mar.–mid-July, weekends 10–4; and by appointment Tues.–Fri.

Bolinas

7 miles north of Stinson Beach.

The tiny town of Bolinas wears its 1960s idealism on its sleeve, attracting potters, poets, and peace lovers to its quiet streets. With a funky gallery, a general store selling organic produce, a café, and an offbeat saloon, the main thoroughfare, Wharf Road, looks like a hippie-fied version of Main Street, USA.

Getting Here and Around

Bolinas isn’t difficult to find: heading north from Stinson Beach follow Highway 1 west and then north. Make a left at the first road just past the Bolinas Lagoon (Olema–Bolinas Road), and then turn left at the stop sign. The road dead-ends smack-dab in the middle of town. By bus, take the 10, 70, or 80 to Marin City; in Marin City transfer to the West Marin Stagecoach. Walking is the only way to see this small town.

Where to Eat in Bolinas

Coast Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | Decked out in a nautical theme with surfboards and buoys, the dining room at the Coast serves dependably good American fare, including specials such as shepherd’s pie, pot roast, local fresh fish, grass-fed steaks, and gorgeous salads. The café is open for breakfast on weekends. | Average main: $16 | 46 Wharf Rd. off Olema–Bolinas Rd. | 94924 | 415/868–2298 |
www.bolinascafe.com.

Point Reyes National Seashore

Bear Valley Visitor Center is 12 miles north of Bolinas.

Getting Here and Around

From San Francisco, take U.S. 101 north, head west at Sir Francis Drake Boulevard (Exit 450B), and follow the road just under 20 miles to Bear Valley Road. From Stinson Beach or Bolinas, drive north on Highway 1 and turn left on Bear Valley Road. If you’re going by bus, take the 10, 70, or 80 to Marin City; in Marin City transfer to the West Marin Stagecoach. Once at the visitor center, the best way to get around is on foot.

Exploring Point Reyes National Seashore

Fodor’s Choice | Point Reyes National Seashore.
One of the Bay Area’s most spectacular treasures and the only national seashore on the West Coast, the 66,500-acre Point Reyes National Seashore encompasses hiking trails, secluded beaches, and rugged grasslands as well as Point Reyes itself, a triangular peninsula that juts into the Pacific. The town of Point Reyes Station is a quaint, one-main-drag affair, with a charming bakery, some good gift shops with locally made and imported goods, and a few places to eat. It’s nothing fancy, but that’s part of its relaxed charm.

When explorer Sir Francis Drake sailed along the California coast in 1579, he missed the Golden Gate and San Francisco Bay, but he did land at what he described as a convenient harbor, now thought to be Drake’s Bay, which flanks the point on the east. Today Point Reyes’s hills and dramatic cliffs attract other kinds of explorers: hikers, whale-watchers, and solitude seekers.

The infamous San Andreas Fault runs along the eastern edge of the park and up the center of Tomales Bay; take the short Earthquake Trail from the visitor center to see the impact near the epicenter of the 1906 earthquake that devastated San Francisco. A ½-mile path from the visitor center leads to Kule Loklo, a brilliantly reconstructed Miwok village that sheds light on the daily lives of the region’s first inhabitants. From here, trails also lead to the park’s free campgrounds (camping permits are required).

TIP In late winter and spring, take the short walk at Chimney Rock, just before the lighthouse, to the Elephant Seal Overlook. Even from the cliff, the male seals look enormous as they spar for resident females.

You can experience the diversity of Point Reyes’s ecosystems on the scenic Coast Trail, which starts at the Palomarin Trailhead, just outside Bolinas. From here it’s a 3-mile trek through eucalyptus groves and pine forests and along seaside cliffs to beautiful and tiny Bass Lake. To reach the Palomarin Trailhead, take Olema–Bolinas Road toward Bolinas, follow signs to the Point Reyes Bird Observatory, and then continue until the road dead-ends.

The 4.7-mile-long (one-way) Tomales Point Trail follows the spine of the park’s northernmost finger of land through a Tule Elk Preserve, providing spectacular ocean views from the high bluffs. Expect to see elk, but keep your distance from the animals. To reach the fairly easy hiking trail, look for the Pierce Point Road turnoff on the right, just north of the town of Inverness; park at the end of the road by the old ranch buildings. | 94956 | www.nps.gov/pore.

Bear Valley Visitor Center.
The center’s informative exhibits explain the park’s wildlife and history. Rangers here dispense information about beaches, whale-watching, hiking trails, and camping. | Bear Valley Visitor Center Access Rd. west of Hwy. 1 | 94956 | 415/464–5100 | www.nps.gov/pore/planyourvisit | Weekdays 9–5; weekends 8–5.

Duxbury Reef.
Mile-long Duxbury Reef is the largest shale intertidal reef in North America. Look for starfish, barnacles, sea anemones, purple urchins, limpets, sea mussels, and the occasional abalone. But check a tide table (www.wrh.noaa.gov/mtr/marine.php) or the local papers if you plan to explore the reef—it’s accessible only at low tide. To get here, take Mesa Road and turn left onto Overlook Drive and then right on Elm Avenue. | 94956.

Point Reyes Bird Observatory.
Birders adore the observatory, which lies in the southernmost part of Point Reyes National Seashore and is accessed through Bolinas. (Those not interested in birds might find it ho-hum.) The compact visitor center has excellent interpretive exhibits, including a comparative display of real birds’ talons, and the surrounding woods, well worth a visit, harbor more than 200 bird species. As you hike the quiet trails through forest and along ocean cliffs, you’re likely to see biologists banding birds to aid in the study of their life cycles. | Mesa Rd. | Bolinas | 94924 | 415/868–0655 | www.prbo.org | Free | Daily 9–5.

Point Reyes Lighthouse.
In operation since December 1, 1870, this lighthouse is one of the premier attractions of the Point Reyes National Seashore. It occupies the tip of Point Reyes, 22 miles from the Bear Valley Visitor Center, a scenic 45-minute drive over hills scattered with longtime cattle ranches. The lighthouse originally cast a rotating beam lighted by four wicks that burned lard oil. Keeping the wicks lighted and the lens soot-free in Point Reyes’s perpetually foggy climate was a constant struggle that reputedly drove the early attendants to alcoholism and insanity. On busy whale-watching weekends (late December through mid-April), parking at the forged-iron-plate lighthouse may be restricted by park staff; on these days buses shuttle visitors from the Drakes Beach lot to the top of the stairs leading down to the lighthouse (bus $5, admission free). Once there, consider whether you have it in you to walk down—and up—the 308 steps to the lighthouse. The view from the bottom is worth the effort, but the whales are visible from the cliffs above the lighthouse. | Western end of Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | 415/669–1534 | Thurs.–Mon. 10–4:30; weather lens room 2:30–4, except during very windy weather.

Where to Eat in Point Reyes National Seashore

Café Reyes.
$ | ECLECTIC | In a triangular, semi-industrial room with glazed concrete floors and ceilings high enough to accommodate several full-size market umbrellas, you can mix and match Californian and international flavors. Wood-fired pizzas are the specialty. Sandwiches and salads are generous. On nice days, head for the outdoor patio. | Average main: $12 | 11101 Hwy. 1 | Point Reyes Station | 94956 | 415/663–9493.

Pine Cone Diner.
$ | AMERICAN | A block off the main drag, this oh-so-cute diner serves great traditional breakfasts as well as Mexican specialties such as huevos rancheros. At lunch expect hearty homemade soups, fresh salads, and thick sandwiches, all made with local, organic ingredients. TIP Kids love the outdoor picnic tables. | Average main: $11 | 60 4th St. at B St. | Point Reyes Station | 94956 | 415/663–1536 | www.pineconediner.com | No dinner.

Priscilla’s Pizzeria & Cafe.
$ | PIZZA | This casual eatery in Inverness is a good stop for a quick bite: pizza, sandwiches, salad, pastries, and espresso. A different soup is offered daily along with vegetarian options, and desserts offered from local bakeries. Soy cheese adds a twist on their handcrafted pizza. You can get the crust stretched thin if you ask. Be aware that the owners shut down for a two-week vacation each February. | Average main: $12 | 12785 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Inverness | 94937 | 415/669–1244 | Closed 2 wks in Feb.

Station House Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | In good weather, hikers fresh from the park fill the Station House’s garden to enjoy alfresco dining, and on weekends there’s not a spare seat on the banquettes in the dining room. The focus is on local, seasonal, and sustainable food: oyster shooters, Niman Ranch braised lamb, Californian white sea bass, and sweet bread pudding are the standbys. The place is also open for breakfast, and there’s a full bar. | Average main: $22 | 11180 Hwy. 1 | Point Reyes Station | 94956 | 415/663–1515 | www.stationhousecafe.com | Closed Wed.

Tomales Bay Foods.
$$$ | AMERICAN | A renovated hay barn off the main drag houses this collection of food shops, a favorite stopover among Bay Area foodies. Watch workers making Cowgirl Creamery cheese; then buy some at a counter that sells exquisite artisanal cheeses from around the world. Tomales Bay Foods showcases local organic fruits and vegetables and premium packaged foods, and the kitchen turns the best ingredients into creative sandwiches, salads, and soups. You can eat at a small café table or on the lawn. The shops are open until 6 pm. | Average main: $23 | 80 4th St. at B. St. | Point Reyes Station | 94956 | 415/663–9335 cheese shop, 415/663–8478 deli | Closed Mon. and Tues.

Where to Stay in Point Reyes National Seashore

Inverness Valley Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Amid a 15-acre valley on the north end of town, this secluded getaway offers spacious private cabins with patios that are perfect for sunset barbecues and leisurely breakfasts. The cabins are modern, eco-friendly and well lighted, with large windows and impressive skylights. The inn is ideal for families who want extra space and a kitchen (or kitchenette) for cooking. For those hankering for a taste of farm life, in the back of the property there are chickens, sheep, and goats. Pros: spacious accommodations; great place to bring kids. Cons: 3-plus miles from downtown Inverness; small pool. TripAdvisor: “cozy,” “laid-back atmosphere,” “welcoming hostess and location.” | Rooms from: $160 | 13275 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Inverness | 94937 | 415/669–7250 | www.invernessvalleyinn.com | 20 cabins.

Fodor’s Choice | Manka’s Inverness Lodge.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Chef-owner Margaret Grade takes rustic fantasy to extravagant heights in her 1917 hunting lodge and cabins, where mica-shaded lamps cast an amber glow, and bearskin rugs warm wide-planked floors. Each element—featherbeds, deep leather armchairs, huge soaking tubs—bespeaks sensuous indulgence, but this is a private hideaway, not a swanky resort. Dinner is available for lodging guests only in the form of a fireside supper or in-room picnic. Locally sourced and seasonal ingredients from within a 15-mile radius make for boldly flavorful dishes that change daily according to what comes in from farmers, fishermen, and foragers. Succulent meats reign, but vegetarians can ask for adjustments to the $58 prix-fixe menu. Pros: extremely romantic, remote and quiet. Cons: no on-site restaurant; sounds from neighboring room are easily heard. TripAdvisor: “pristine oasis in Inverness,” “rustic luxury,” “relaxed setting.” | Rooms from: $450 | 30 Callendar Way at Argyle Way | Inverness | 94937 | 415/669–1034 | www.mankas.com | 8 rooms, 1 boathouse, 4 cabins.

Motel Inverness.
$$ | B&B/INN | This roadside row of rooms has everything a small-town motel should offer: friendly management; spotless, thoughtfully maintained accommodations (some quite small); and extras that add real value. Some rooms have a small kitchen with cooking utensils. The lodge, a window-lined common room with skylighted cathedral ceiling, has a fireplace, big-screen TV, billiards table, kitchenette, and well-maintained fish tank. Sliding glass doors open to a deck overlooking Tomales Bay. For $400 you can have the two-story suite (sleeps four) and its two decks, full kitchen, fireplace, and jetted tub; $500 rents you the ornate Dacha, a three-bedroom Russian-style house on stilts over the bay. Pros: great views of Tomales Bay; comfy communal lodge with fireplace and pool table. Cons: some of the rooms are on the small side; the bedding could use a makeover. | Rooms from: $150 | 12718 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Inverness | 94937 | 415/669–1081, 888/669–6909 | www.motelinverness.com | 7 rooms, 2 suites, 1 house.

Olema Druids Hall.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Set on a quiet hill beneath towering eucalyptus trees, the inn, built in 1885 as a meeting hall for the Ancient Order of Druids, now holds gorgeously appointed rooms, each of which seems like a designer showcase. Antique furniture matches perfectly with stylish modern pieces and fine art, and 14-foot ceilings and marble baths enhance the sense of grandeur. In the morning, wake up to the smell of freshly baked breakfast breads, which you can enjoy with strong coffee by the fire or outside in the grassy yard. Pros: heated hardwood floors; wood-burning fireplaces. Cons: not much to do at night; some traffic noise. TripAdvisor: “comfortable luxury,” “old-world heaven,” “casual and comfortable.” | Rooms from: $325 | 9870 Shoreline Hwy. Box 96 | Olema | 94950 | 415/663–8727, 866/554–4255 | www.olemadruidshall.com | 3 rooms, 1 suite, 1 cottage | Breakfast.

Olema Inn & Restaurant.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Built in 1876, this inn retains all of its 19th-century architectural charm but has been decorated in a sophisticated, uncluttered style. The spartan, understated rooms have antique armoires and sumptuous beds with crisp linens; the white-tile baths have gleaming fixtures. But the main attraction is the top-notch Northern California cooking served in the restaurant ($$$, reservations essential). The preparations of organic, local, and free-range ingredients include fresh oysters, pork chops with apple-cider glaze, and ricotta gnocchi. TIP Come on Monday, locals’ night, when the place hops with live music and you can dine on delectable small plates. Pros: great restaurant; magnificent scenery. Cons: no elevator means carrying your luggage up the stairs; the carpets need to be replaced. TripAdvisor: “clean and quiet,” “amazing hospitality,” “largely very nice.” | Rooms from: $222 | 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Olema | 94950 | 415/663–9559 | www.theolemainn.com | 6 rooms | Closed Tues. No lunch weekdays.

Point Reyes Hostel.
$$$ | This dorm-style lodging (separate quarters for men and women) in an old wood-sided ranch house is the only lodge within the national seashore. A bit worn around the edges, the rooms are a bit barrackslike with scratched but serviceable furniture and curtains instead of doors in the women’s bathrooms. There’s a friendly, lodgelike feel as guests gather around the small table to eat at night. There’s also a separate bunkhouse with two dorm rooms and two bathrooms. The only private lodging is in the family-size guest room ($58), limited to those with children five and under; it must be reserved well in advance. Be aware that the drive to the top of the peak is steep and winding. Pros: affordable; 7.4-miles from Limantour Beach. Cons: rooms need updating; bunk beds and boy/girl quarters leave something to be desired. | Rooms from: $24 | Off Limantour Rd., 5.5 miles from Bear Valley Rd., Box 247 | Point Reyes Station | 94956 | 415/663–8811 | www.norcalhostels.org | 44 beds.

Ten Inverness Way.
$$ | B&B/INN | This is the kind of down-to-earth place where you sit around after breakfast and share tips for hiking Point Reyes or linger around the living room with its stone fireplace and library. Some rooms have dormer ceilings with skylights; patchwork quilts, folksy murals, and well-worn antiques are among the homespun touches. Wine and cheese and fresh-baked cookies are nice extras. TIP The innkeepers also lead guided hikes of the park. No children under 12, except in the suite. Pros: great base for exploring nearby wilderness; peaceful garden and friendly staff. Cons: overly folksy decor; some rooms are on the small side; poor cell-phone reception. TripAdvisor: “romantic,” “great host,” “lovely setting.” | Rooms from: $182 | 10 Inverness Way | Inverness | 94937 | 415/669–1648 | www.teninvernessway.com | 4 rooms, 1 suite.

Sports and the Outdoors in Point Reyes National Seashore

Blue Waters Kayaking.
This outfit rents kayaks and offers tours and lessons. | 12938 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. | Inverness | 94937 | 415/669–2600 | www.bwkayak.com.

Five Brooks Stable.
Tour guides here lead horse rides lasting from one to six hours; trails from the stable wind through Point Reyes National Seashore and along the beaches. | 8001 Hwy. 1 north of town | Olema | 94950 | 415/663–1570 | www.fivebrooks.com | $40–$240.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents