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Oakland | Berkeley

When San Franciscans refer to it, the East Bay often means nothing more than what you can see across the bay from the city—mainly Oakland and Berkeley, both of which are in Alameda County. In fact, the East Bay stretches north and east of Alameda to Contra Costa County, which itself has emerged as a powerful business nexus.

Oakland

Directly east of Bay Bridge.

Often overshadowed by San Francisco’s beauty and Berkeley’s storied counterculture, Oakland’s allure lies in its amazing diversity. Here you can find a Nigerian clothing store, a beautifully renovated Victorian home, a Buddhist meditation center, and a lively salsa club, all within the same block. Oakland’s multifaceted nature reflects its colorful and often tumultuous history. Once a cluster of Mediterranean-style homes and gardens that served as a bedroom community for San Francisco, the city became a hub of shipbuilding and industry almost overnight when the United States entered World War II. New jobs in the city’s shipyards and factories attracted thousands of workers, including some of the first female welders, and the city’s neighborhoods were imbued with a proud but gritty spirit. In the 1960s and ’70s this intense community pride gave rise to such militant groups as the Black Panther Party and the Symbionese Liberation Army, but they were little match for the economic hardships and racial tensions that plagued Oakland. In many neighborhoods the reality was widespread poverty and gang violence—subjects that dominated the songs of such Oakland-bred rappers as the late Tupac Shakur. The highly publicized protests of the Occupy Oakland movement in 2011 and 2012 illustrated just how much Oakland remains a mosaic of its past.

The affluent reside in the city’s hillside homes, which provide a warmer, more spacious, and more affordable alternative to San Francisco, and a constant flow of newcomers—many from Central America and Asia—ensures continued diversity, vitality, and growing pains. Many neighborhoods to the west and south of the city center remain run-down and unsafe, but a renovated downtown area—sparking a vibrant arts scene—and the thriving though sterile Jack London Square have injected new energy into the city.

Everyday life here revolves around the neighborhood, with a main business strip attracting both shoppers and strollers. In some areas, such as high-end Piedmont and Rockridge, you’d swear you were in Berkeley or San Francisco’s Noe Valley or Cow Hollow. These are perfect places for browsing, eating, or just relaxing between sightseeing trips to Oakland’s architectural gems, rejuvenated waterfront, and numerous green spaces. Between Rockridge and Piedmont and to the west, you can find the Temescal District, along Telegraph Avenue just south of 51st Street, where interesting eateries and shops are beginning to congregate.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Oakland Convention and Visitors Bureau.
463 11th St. | 94607 | 510/839–9000 | www.oaklandcvb.com.

Getting Here and Around

Driving from San Francisco, take I–80 East across the Bay Bridge, then take I–580 to the Grand Avenue exit for Lake Merritt. To reach downtown and the waterfront, take I–980 from I–580 and exit at 12th Street.

By BART, use the Lake Merritt Station for the Oakland Museum and southern Lake Merritt; the Oakland City Center–12th Street Station for downtown, Chinatown, and Old Oakland; and the 19th Street Station for the Paramount Theatre and the north side of Lake Merritt.

By bus, take the AC Transit’s C and P lines to get to Piedmont in Oakland. The O bus stops at the edge of Chinatown near downtown Oakland. Once you arrive, be aware of how quickly neighborhoods can change. Walking is safe and advised downtown as well as in the Piedmont and Rockridge areas, but avoid walking west and south of downtown.

Exploring Oakland

Chinatown.
Across Broadway from Old Oakland but worlds apart, Chinatown is a densely packed, bustling neighborhood. Unlike its San Francisco counterpart, Oakland’s Chinatown makes no concessions to tourists; you won’t find baskets of trinkets lining the sidewalk and souvenir displays in the shop windows. But supermarkets such as Yuen Hop Noodle Company and Asian Food Products (824 Webster St.), open since 1931, overflow with goodies. And the line for sweets, breads, and towering cakes snakes out the door of Napoleon Super Bakery (810 Franklin St.)|94607.

Fox Theater.
The Fox Theater, an art deco movie palace built in 1928, sat decaying and mostly unused for decades until the last of several redevelopment schemes culminated in a stunning renovation. The Mediterranean Moorish–style Fox and its attached buildings contain the main theater, these days used for music concerts; a charter arts school; and a restaurant space. The theater’s restoration helped revive what’s known as the Uptown neighborhood. | 1807 Telegraph Ave., at 18th St., Uptown | www.thefoxoakland.com.

Jack London Square.
Shops, restaurants, small museums, and historic sites line Jack London Square, which is named after one of California’s best-known authors; London wrote The Call of the Wild and The Sea Wolf, among many other books. When he lived in Oakland, he spent many a day boozing and brawling in the waterfront area, most notably at the tiny, wonderful Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon (48 Webster St., at Embarcadero West | 510/839–6761). The saloon has been serving since 1883, although it’s a little worse for wear since the 1906 earthquake. Next door is the Klondike cabin in which London spent a summer in the late 1890s. The cabin was moved from Alaska and reassembled here in 1970.

TIP The square is an obvious spot for tourists to visit and it’s worth a peek if you take a ferry that docks here; to really get a feel for Oakland, though, you’re better off browsing downtown, or at least in Rockridge. | Embarcadero West at Broadway | 866/295–9853 | www.jacklondonsquare.com.

Lake Merritt.
Joggers and power-walkers charge along the 3-mile path that encircles this 155-acre natural saltwater lake in downtown Oakland. Crew teams often glide across the water, and boatmen guide snuggling couples in authentic Venetian gondolas. Lakeside Park, which surrounds the north side of Lake Merritt, has several outdoor attractions, including a cute children’s park and a waterfowl refuge. Herons, egrets, geese, and ducks nest here in spring and summer, and migrating birds pass through from September through February. Year-round, you can watch birds being fed daily at 3:30 pm. Look for the sign that says “Sailboat House, Gondola Servizio.” Gondola fares start at $40 per couple for 30 minutes. | Lakeside Park, Bellevue and Grand Aves. | 94610

Oakland Museum of California.
One of Oakland’s top attractions, the museum showcases the state’s art, history, and natural wonders in absorbing, detailed exhibits. You can travel through myriad ecosystems in the Natural Sciences Gallery, from the sand dunes of the Pacific to the coyotes and brush of the Nevada border. Kids love the lifelike wild-animal exhibits, especially the snarling wolverine, big-eyed harbor seal, and trove of hidden creatures. The rambling Cowell Hall of California History includes everything from Spanish-era armor to a small but impressive collection of vintage vehicles, including a gorgeous, candy-apple-red “Mystery” car from the 1960s and a gleaming red, gold, and silver fire engine that battled the flames in San Francisco in 1906. The Gallery of California Art holds an eclectic collection of modern works and early landscapes. Of particular interest are paintings by Richard Diebenkorn, Joan Brown, Elmer Bischoff, and David Park, all members of the Bay Area Figurative School, which flourished here after World War II. Fans of Dorothea Lange won’t want to miss the gallery’s comprehensive collection of her work. The museum also has a sculpture garden with a view of the Oakland and Berkeley hills in the distance. | 1000 Oak St., at 10th St. | 94607 | 510/238–2200 | www.museumca.org | $12, free 1st Sun. of month | Wed.–Sun. 11–5.

Old Oakland.
In the shadow of the convention center and towering downtown hotels, Old Oakland was once a booming business district. Today the restored Victorian storefronts lining four historic blocks house restaurants, cafés, shops, galleries, and a lively three-block farmers’ market, which takes place Friday morning. Architectural consistency distinguishes the area from surrounding streets and lends it a distinct neighborhood feel. The Italian grocer Ratto’s International Market (827 Washington St. | 510/832–6503) has been in business for more than a century. Stop in for a deli sandwich there, or head over to the genial Pacific Coast Brewing Company (906 Washington St. | 510/836–2739) for a microbrew on the patio.

Paramount Theatre.
Some truly stunning examples of late art-deco architecture can be found in the Uptown (but still downtown) neighborhood around the 19th Street BART station. Some of these buildings have fallen into disrepair, but the Paramount Theatre, perhaps the most glorious art-deco specimen in the city, if not the entire Bay Area, still operates as a venue for concerts and performances of all kinds, from the Oakland East Bay Symphony to Tom Waits and Elvis Costello. You can take a two-hour tour of the building, which starts near the box office on 21st Street at 10 am on the first and third Saturday of each month. | 2025 Broadway, at 20th St., Uptown | 94612 | 510/465–6400 | www.paramounttheatre.com | Tour $5.

Redwood Regional Park.
Sequoia sempervirens, or coastal redwoods, grow to 150 feet tall in Redwood Regional Park, one of the few spots in the Bay Area that escaped timber-hungry loggers in the 19th century. The 1,836-acre park has forested picnic spots and dozens of hiking trails, including part of the 31-mile Skyline National Trail, which links Redwood to four other parks in the Berkeley–Oakland hills. From downtown Oakland take Interstate 580 east toward Hayward, exit at 35th Avenue/MacArthur Boulevard, and then take 35th Avenue east (which becomes Redwood Road). Watch for a park entrance on the left, 3 to 4 miles down the road. | 7867 Redwood Rd. | 94619 | 888/327–2757 | www.ebparks.org/parks/redwood | $5 per vehicle, $4 per trailered vehicle | Daily 8 am–9 pm.

Rockridge.
The upscale neighborhood of Rockridge is one of Oakland’s most desirable places to live. Explore the tree-lined streets that radiate out from College Avenue just north and south of the Rockridge BART station for a look at California bungalow architecture at its finest. By day College Avenue between Broadway and Alcatraz Avenue is crowded with shoppers buying fresh flowers, used books, and clothing; by night the same folks are back for dinner and locally brewed ales in the numerous restaurants and pubs. With its pricey specialty-food shops, Market Hall, an airy European-style marketplace at Shafter Avenue, is a hub of culinary activity.

Where to Eat in Oakland

À Côté.
$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | This place for Mediterranean food is all about small plates, cozy tables, family-style eating—and truly excellent food. The butternut-squash ravioli, Alsatian goose sausage, and pear-and-walnut flat bread are all lovely choices. And you won’t find a better plate of pommes frites anywhere. The restaurant offers more than 40 wines by the glass. Desserts here are tempting: try the warm crème-fraîche pound cake with apple confit, vanilla ice cream, and huckleberry sauce or a tangy pomegranate sorbet. The heavy wooden tables, cool tiles, and natural light make this a coveted destination for students, families, couples, and after-work crowds. | Average main: $18 | 5478 College Ave., at Taft Ave., Rockridge | 94618 | 510/655–6469 | Reservations not accepted | No lunch.

Brown Sugar Kitchen.
$ | AMERICAN | Chef and owner Tanya Holland uses local, organic, and seasonal products to craft meals influenced by her African-American heritage and her culinary education in France. Holland blends sweet and savory flavors like no one else, and pairs her dishes with well-chosen wines. The dining room is fresh and bright, with a long, sleek counter, red-leather stools, and spacious booths and tables. This is the place to come for chicken and waffles. | Average main: $13 | 2534 Mandela Pkwy., at 26th St., West Oakland | 94607 | 510/839–7685 | www.brownsugarkitchen.com | Closed Mon. No dinner.

Camino.
$$$ | AMERICAN | The first solo venture of chef-owner Russell Moore (a Chez Panisse alum of 21 years) and co-owner Allison Hopelain focuses on simple, seasonal, and straightforward dishes cooked in the enormous, crackling camino (Italian for “fireplace”). Everything is made with top-notch ingredients, including local sardines; grilled lamb and sausage with shell beans; and grilled white sea bass with green beans and new potatoes. The menu changes nightly and includes vegetarian options such as eggplant gratin. The restaurant is decorated in a Craftsman-meets-refectory style, with brick walls and two long redwood communal tables. Seasonally inspired cocktails from the small bar are not to be missed; the gin-based drink with house-made cherry and hibiscus bitters is notably delicious. | Average main: $24 | 3917 Grand Ave., at Boulevard Way, Lake Merritt | 94610 | 510/547–5035 | Closed Tues. No lunch (weekend brunch 10–2).

Doña Tomás.
$$ | MEXICAN | A neighborhood favorite, this spot in Oakland’s up-and-coming Temescal District serves seasonal Mexican fare to a hip but low-key crowd. Mexican textiles and art adorn walls in two long rooms; there’s also a vine-covered patio. Banish all images of taquería grub and tuck into starters such as quesadillas filled with butternut squash and goat cheese and entrées such as albondigas en sopa de zanahoria (pork-and-beef meatballs in carrot puree). A fine selection of tequilas rounds out the offerings. | Average main: $18 | 5004 Telegraph Ave., near 51st St. | 94609 | 510/450–0522 | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

L’Amyx Tea Bar.
$ | CAFÉ | Light through the large windows bathes the blond-wood tables, comfy chairs, and long bar, all filled with absorbed students, chatting friends, and tired shoppers in need of a boost. A small area in the back sells first-rate tea accoutrements, but sink into a couch or private nook to bask in much more than the usual cuppa. Try a tea smoothie or an herbal remedy such as Tealaxation. | Average main: $4 | 4179 Piedmont Ave., at Linda Ave., Piedmont | 94611 | 510/594–8322.

Le Cheval Restaurant.
$ | VIETNAMESE | This is a good place to sample pho, Hanoi-style beef noodle soup fragrant with star anise. Other entrées include lemon chicken, cubed beef steak, clay-pot snapper, and shark in coconut milk. It’s hard to spend more than $20 for an entire meal unless you order the special crab (about $30). The complementary mini-bowls of soup that are placed on the table as soon as you sit down are a great balm to hungry diners although service is lightning-quick anyway. | Average main: $12 | 1019 Clay St., at 11th St., Downtown | 94607 | 510/763–8495 | No lunch Sun.

Luka’s Taproom & Lounge.
$$ | BELGIAN | Luka’s is a real taste of downtown Oakland: hip and urban, with an unpretentious vibe. Diners nibble on frites any Belgian would embrace and entrées like choucroute garni (sauerkraut with duck confit, ham hock, and pork shoulder). The brews draw ’em in, too—you’d be hard-pressed to find a larger selection of Belgian beer this side of the pond—and the DJs in the adjacent lounge keep the scene going late. | Average main: $22 | 2221 Broadway, at West Grand Ave., Lake Merritt | 94612 | 510/451–4677 | No lunch Sat.

Oliveto Cafe & Restaurant.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Respected chef Jonah Rhodehamel is at the helm of this locally renowned eatery that anchors Market Hall in the Rockridge neighborhood. The first-class dining room upstairs serves straightforward Italian cuisine; the menu changes daily, but might include house-made duck prosciutto, pan-seared swordfish, or spit-roasted leg of lamb. Downstairs, in the less pricey café ($–$$), everything from a morning espresso to pizza to a full-blown Italian meal (at half the upstairs price) can be enjoyed at one of the small tables or at the bar. | Average main: $26 | 5655 College Ave., at Keith Ave., Rockridge | 94618 | 510/547–5356 | No lunch weekends in restaurant.

Where to Stay in Oakland

Executive Inn & Suites.
$ | HOTEL | This two-building hotel is convenient to both the Oakland airport and downtown Oakland, and to make up for its removed location, the property offers free shuttle service to the Oakland airport, BART stations, and Jack London Square. Rooms in the older building are renovated, but those in the newer one are generous in size and have extra-large desks, kitchen areas, and large whirlpool tubs. Each room has either a patio or a balcony, and Wi-Fi access. Pros: free parking; west-facing rooms overlook the peaceful waters of the Oakland Estuary; all rooms have microwaves and fridges. Cons: east-facing rooms look out onto the freeway and can be noisy; the decor is overly bright and busy. TripAdvisor: “great value,” “responsive staff and great facilities,” “excellent customer service.” | Rooms from: $149 | 1755 Embarcadero, off I–880 at 16th St. exit | 94606 | 510/536–6633, 800/346–6331 | www.executiveinnoakland.com | 143 rooms, 81 suites | Breakfast.

Washington Inn Hotel.
$ | This stylish four-story brick hotel sits across the street from the convention center, in the heart of Old Oakland. In operation since 1905, the hotel has up-to-the-minute decor. Red couches brighten the spacious lobby, which has Wi-Fi access. Elegant touches include intricately molded ceiling tiles and a wrought-iron elevator, a relic of the building’s early days. Guest rooms are chic but on the small side. Rooms overlooking the atrium lobby are the quietest (and smallest); corner rooms get the most sunlight. Pros: central location; old-fashioned charm. Cons: rooms on the small side and need to be freshened up. TripAdvisor: “unique,” “hotel with character,” “quaint.” | Rooms from: $109 | 495 10th St., at Washington St., Old Oakland | 94607 | 510/452–1776 | www.thewashingtoninn.com | 47 rooms, 6 suites | Breakfast.

Waterfront Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | One of Oakland’s more appealing neighborhoods is home to this thoroughly modern waterfront hotel. Rooms in the hotel’s five-story section overlook Jack London Square and have shared balconies; those in the three-story building have private balconies facing the water. Some rooms have fireplaces. Pros: great location; dog-friendly. Cons: passing trains can be noisy; parking is pricey. TripAdvisor: “stylish remodel,” “great customer service,” “warm friendly charm.” | Rooms from: $159 | 10 Washington St., Jack London Sq., Jack London Square | 94607 | 510/836–3800, 800/729–3638 | www.waterfrontplaza.com | 143 rooms.

Nightlife and the Arts in Oakland

Artists have found cheap rent and loft spaces in Oakland, giving rise to an underground cultural scene—visual arts, indie music, spoken word, film—that is definitely buzzing, especially in Uptown (which is pretty much downtown). Trendy bars and clubs have also emerged—everything from artisan breweries to all-out retro dives. The nightlife scene here is less crowded and more intimate than what you’ll find in San Francisco. Music is just about everywhere, though the most popular venues are downtown.

Fodor’s Choice | Café van Kleef.
Dutch artist Peter van Kleef’s candle-strewn, funky café-bar crackles with creative energy. Van Kleef has a lot to do with the convivial atmosphere; the garrulous owner loves sharing tales about his quirky, floor-to-ceiling collection of mementos, including what he claims are Cassius Clay’s boxing gloves and Dorothy’s ruby slippers. The café also has a consistently solid calendar of live music, heavy on the jazz side. The drinks are quite possibly the stiffest in town. | 1621 Telegraph Ave., between 16th and 17th Sts., Lake Merritt | 94612 | 510/763–7711 | www.cafevankleef.com.

Fox Theater.
Willie Nelson, Counting Crows, Rebelution, and Rodrigo Y Gabriela and their band C.U.B.A. have all been booked at this recently renovated art-deco stunner that has good sight lines, a state-of-the-art sound system and acoustics, and bars and other amenities aplenty. | 1807 Telegraph Ave., at 18th St., Uptown | 510/548–3010 | www.thefoxoakland.com.

The Layover Music Bar and Lounge.
Bright, bold, and very hip, this hangout filled with recycled furniture is constantly evolving because everything is for sale, from the artwork to the pillows, rugs, and lamps. The busy bar serves up organic cocktails, and depending on the night, the entertainment might include comedy or live or DJ music. | 1517 Franklin St., near 15th St., Uptown | 510/763–7711 | www.oaklandlayover.com.

Mua.
Cuisine, cocktails, and culture—Mua puts it all together in a bright and airy former garage: The chefs serve up beautifully crafted meals like softshell crab and duck confit; the bartenders shake up elegant cocktails; and the rich cultural offerings include poetry readings, art shows, DJ music, and more. | 2442a Webster St., between 16th and 17th Sts., Uptown | 510/238–1100 | www.muaoakland.com.

Paramount Theatre.
The art-deco movie palace is home to the Oakland East Bay Symphony and also presents ballet, comedy (Cedric, Sinbad, Bill Cosby), well-known rock and other musical acts, and the occasional classic film. | 2025 Broadway, at 20th St., Uptown | 510/465–6400 | www.paramounttheatre.com.

The Trappist.
Grand pillars, brick walls, soft lighting, and the buzz of conversation set a warm and mellow tone inside this Victorian space that’s been renovated to resemble a traditional Belgian pub. The setting is definitely a draw, but the real stars are the artisan beers: more than a hundred Belgian, Dutch, and North American ones. The light fare includes panini made with organic ingredients. | 460 8th St., at Broadway, Old Oakland | 510/238–8900 | www.thetrappist.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Yoshi’s.
Oma Sosa and Charlie Hunter are among the musicians who play at Yoshi’s, one of the area’s best jazz venues. Monday through Saturday shows start at 8 pm and 10 pm; Sunday shows usually start at 2 pm and 8 pm. The cover runs from $16 to $30. | 510 Embarcadero St., between Washington and Clay Sts., Jack London Square | 94607 | 510/238–9200 | www.yoshis.com.

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Communal Film-Viewing

“…you could go to the Rockridge BART station, and browse in the Market Hall foods store on the corner across the street. (To me food shopping is different from other shopping! And that store is amazing!) Then you can take the 51 bus to campus (north-bound) along College Ave. and do your touring of the campus.” —charnees

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Sports and the Outdoors in Oakland

Baseball

Oakland A’s.
Billy Beane of Moneyball fame is the general manager of the American League baseball team. Same-day tickets can usually be purchased at the O.co Coliseum box office (Gate D). To get to the game, take a BART train to the Coliseum/Oakland Airport Station. | O.co Coliseum, 7000 Coliseum Way, off I–880, north of Hegenberger Rd. | 94621 | 510/638–4900 | oakland.athletics.mlb.com.

Basketball

Golden State Warriors.
The National Basketball Association’s Golden State Warriors play at the Oracle Arena from November through April. You can take a BART train to the game. Get off at the Coliseum/Oakland Airport Station. Warriors tickets are available through Ticketmaster (800/653-8000 | www.ticketmaster.com). | Oracle Arena, 7000 Coliseum Way, off I–880, north of Hegenberger Rd. | 94621 | 510/986–2200, 888/479–4667 | www.nba.com/warriors.

Football

Oakland Raiders.
The National Football League’s brawling Oakland Raiders play at O.co Coliseum. Purchase Raiders tickets through Tickets.com (800/653–8000 | www.tickets.com); except for high-profile games, they’re easy to come by. | O.co Coliseum, 7000 Coliseum Way, off I–880, north of Hegenberger Rd. | 94621 | 510/864–5000 | www.raiders.com.

Shopping in Oakland

College Avenue is great for upscale strolling, shopping, and people-watching. The more casual streets around Lake Merritt and Grand Lake have smaller, less fancy boutiques.

Diesel.
Wandering bibliophiles collect armfuls of the latest fiction and nonfiction here. The loftlike space, with its high ceilings and spare design, encourages airy contemplation, and on chilly days (a rarity) there’s a fire going in the hearth. Keep an eye out for the excellent reading series. | 5433 College Ave., at Kales Ave., Rockridge | 94618 | 510/653–9965.

Maison d’Etre.
Close to the Rockridge BART station, this store epitomizes the Rockridge neighborhood’s funky-chic shopping scene. Look for impulse buys like whimsical watches, imported fruit-tea blends, and a basket of funky slippers near the back. | 5640 College Ave., at Keith Ave., Rockridge | 94618 | 510/658–2801.

Berkeley

2 miles northeast of Bay Bridge.

The birthplace of the Free Speech Movement, the radical hub of the 1960s, the home of arguably the nation’s top public university, and the city whose government condemned the bombing of Afghanistan—Berkeley is all of those things. The city of 100,000 facing San Francisco across the bay is also culturally diverse, a breeding ground for social trends, a bastion of the counterculture, and an important center for Bay Area writers, artists, and musicians. Berkeley residents, students, and faculty spend hours nursing various coffee concoctions while they read, discuss, and debate at any of the dozens of cafés that surround the campus. Oakland may have Berkeley beat when it comes to cutting-edge arts, and the city may have forfeited some of its renegade 1960s spirit, as some residents say, but unless a guy in a hot-pink satin body suit, skullcap, and cape rides a unicycle around your town, you’ll likely find that Berkeley remains plenty offbeat.

It’s the quintessential university town, and many who graduated years ago still bask in daily intellectual conversation, great weather, and good food. Residents will walk out of their way to go to the perfect bread shop or consult with their favorite wine merchant. And every September, residents gently lampoon themselves during the annual “How Berkeley Can You Be?” parade and festival where they celebrate their tie-dyed past and consider its new incarnations.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Berkeley Convention and Visitors Bureau.
| 2030 Addison St., #102 | 94704 | 510/549–7040 | www.visitberkeley.com.

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Berkeley's Political History

Those looking for traces of Berkeley’s politically charged past need go no farther than Sather Gate. Both the Free Speech Movement and the fledgling political life of actor-turned-politician Ronald Reagan have their roots here. It was next to Sather Gate, on September 30, 1964, that a group of students defied the University of California–Berkeley chancellor’s order that all organizations advocating “off-campus issues” (such as civil rights and nuclear disarmament) keep their information tables off campus. Citation of the tablers brought more than 400 sympathetic students into Sproul Hall that afternoon. They stayed until 3 am, setting a precedent of protest that would be repeated in the coming months, with students jamming Sproul Hall in greater numbers each time.

Conservative U.C. president Clark Kerr eventually backed down and allowed student groups to pass out information on campus. By then, the Free Speech Movement had gathered momentum, and the conflict had made a national hero of student leader Mario Savio. Political newcomer Ronald Reagan played on Californians’ unease about the unruly Berkeley students in his successful 1966 bid for governor, promising to rein in the “unwashed kooks.”

By the end of the 1960s, the cohesion of the groups making up the Free Speech Movement had begun to fray. Some members began questioning the efficacy of sit-ins and other nonviolent tactics that had, until then, been the hallmark of Berkeley student protests. The Black Panthers, headquartered just over the border in Oakland, were ascending into the national spotlight, and their “take no prisoners” approach appealed to some Berkeley activists who had seen little come of their efforts to affect national policy.

By 1969 both Robert Kennedy and Martin Luther King Jr. were dead, and the issue of the day—stopping the flow of troops heading to Vietnam—was not as easy as overpowering a school administration’s resistance to free speech. But a more dramatic clash with the university came when it brought in police units to repossess People’s Park, a university-owned plot of land at Telegraph Avenue and Haste Street that students and community members had adopted as a park. On the afternoon of May 15, 1969, nearly 6,000 students and residents moved to reclaim the park. In the ensuing riot, police and sheriff’s deputies fired both tear gas and buckshot, blinding one observer and killing another. Governor Ronald Reagan ordered the National Guard into Berkeley. Despite a ban on public assembly, crowds continued to gather and march in the days after the first riot. The park changed hands several times in the following tear-gas-filled months, with the fence coming down for the last time in 1972.

A colorful mural on the side of Amoeba Records (Haste Street at Telegraph Avenue) offers the protestors’ version of park history. Although the area around People’s Park and Sather Gate may seem quiet now, issues such as affirmative action and tuition increases still bring protests to the steps of Sproul. Protests over civil rights, war, and other inequities march through the center of the campus, though students also gather to rally for sports events, social gatherings, and shows of school spirit.

–Chris Baty

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Getting Here and Around

BART is the easiest way to get to Berkeley from San Francisco. Alight at the Berkeley (not North Berkeley) Station, and walk a block up Center Street to get to the western edge of campus. AC Transit buses F and FS lines stop near the university and 4th Street shopping. By car, take I–80 east across the Bay Bridge then take the University Avenue exit through downtown Berkeley to the campus or take the Ashby Avenue exit and turn left on Telegraph Avenue to the traditional campus entrance. Once you arrive, explore on foot. Berkeley is very pedestrian friendly.

Exploring Berkeley

4th Street.
An industrial area on 4th Street north of University Avenue has been converted into a pleasant shopping stretch, with popular eateries and shops selling handcrafted and eco-conscious goods. About six blocks long, this compact area (the action has spilled on to neighboring streets) is busiest on bright weekend afternoons. Stained Glass Garden, Hear Music, and the Crate and Barrel Outlet are among shoppers’ favorites, along with a mini-slew of upscale boutiques and wonderful paper stores. | 4th St., between University Ave. and Delaware Sts.

Quick Bites: Cheese Board Pizzeria. With a jazz combo playing in the storefront and a long line snaking down the block, Cheese Board taps into the pulse of the Gourmet Ghetto. The cooperatively owned takeout spot draws devoted customers with the smell of just-baked garlic, fresh vegetables, and perfect sauces. For just a nibble, bakery–cheese shop next door sells cookies, muffins, scones, bialys—you name it, they bake it. | 1504–1512 Shattuck Ave., at Vine St. | 94709 | 510/549–3055 | Tues.–Fri. 11:30–2 and 4:30–7, Sat. 11:30–3.

Elmwood.
Shops and cafés pack two pleasant blocks of College Avenue in the Elmwood neighborhood south of the U.C. campus. You’ll know you’re here when you see the logo for the beloved art-house cinema and performance space, the Elmwood theater, near College and Ashby avenues, though you’re just as apt to see a line snaking outside nearby Ici Ice Cream, at 2948 College. All the treats here are made on the premises. While you’re waiting, check out the architectural details of the nearby pre-World War II storefronts. Century-old shingled houses line the tree-shaded streets nearby. | College Ave. between Russell and Webster Sts., Elmwood.

Nabolom Bakery. Nabolom Bakery, which has been around since 1976, is a workers’ collective where politics and delicious pastries collide. | 2708 Russell St. | 510/845–2253.

Gourmet Ghetto.
The success of Chez Panisse restaurant attracted other food-related enterprises to its stretch of Shattuck Avenue, and the area surrounding the intersection of Shattuck and Vine Street became known as the Gourmet Ghetto. If you love food at all, it’s worth a couple of hours to poke around the food shops and grab a quick bite or a full meal at one of the neighborhood’s eateries. Of special note are the small food stands of Epicurious Garden, at 1509–1513 Shattuck, which sell everything from sushi to gelato. Outside, you can find a terraced garden—the best place to sit—that winds up four levels and ends at the Imperial Tea Court. Around the corner on Vine Street is Walnut Square, whose shops include Love at First Bite, a cupcakery that sells scrumptious confections. Across Vine Street from Walnut Square, the Vintage Berkeley wine shop occupies the historic former pump house at No. 2113; the offerings here are shrewdly selected and reasonably priced. Coffee lovers of the Peet’s persuasion may want to pay brief respects at No. 2124, at Walnut Street, where the famed roaster got its start and still maintains a presence. In the block north of Vine Street on Shattuck is popular Saul’s deli and restaurant, and Cheese Board Pizzeria is across Shattuck from Epicurious Garden. We could go on, but you get the idea. | Shattuck Ave. between Cedar and Rose Sts., North Berkeley | 94709 | www.gourmetghetto.org.

Telegraph Avenue.
Berkeley’s student-oriented thoroughfare, Telegraph Avenue is the best place to get a dose of the city’s famed counterculture. On any given day you might encounter a troop of chanting Hare Krishnas or a drumming band of Rastafarians. First and foremost, however, Telegraph is a place for socializing and shopping, the only uniquely Berkeley shopping experience in town and a definite don’t-miss. TIP Take care at night, as things get edgier on Telegraph. The nearby People’s Park, mostly harmless by day, is best avoided after sunset. Cafés, bookstores, poster shops, and street vendors line the avenue. T-shirt vendors and tarot-card readers come and go on a whim, but a few establishments—Rasputin Music (No. 2401), Amoeba Music (No. 2455), and Moe’s Books (No. 2476)—are neighborhood landmarks. Allen Ginsberg wrote his acclaimed poem “Howl” at Caffe Mediterraneum (No. 2475), a relic of 1960s-era café culture that also lays claim to inventing the café latte.

Tilden Regional Park.
The Regional Parks Botanic Garden is the star of this beautiful 2,000-acre park to the east of the Cal campus. Botanically speaking, a stroll through the garden, which focuses on native plants of California, provides a whirlwind tour of the entire state. You can pick up information about Tilden’s other attractions, including its picnic spots, Lake Anza swimming site, golf course, and hiking trails (the paved Nimitz Way is a popular hike with wonderful views) at the garden’s visitors center. Children love Tilden Park’s miniature steam trains; Little Farm, where kids can feed the animals; and the vintage carousel with wooden animals. | Regional Parks Botanic Garden, Wildcat Canyon Rd. and South Park Dr., Tilden Park | 94701 | 510/544–2747 | www.ebparks.org/parks/tilden | Free to park and botanic garden | Daily 8 am–10 pm.

University of California.
The founding campus of California’s university system, chartered in 1868, sits on a rising plain of oak trees split by Strawberry Creek. Frederick Law Olmsted, who designed New York City’s Central Park, proposed the first campus plan. University architects over the years have included Bernard Maybeck as well as Julia Morgan, who designed Hearst Castle at San Simeon. The central campus occupies 178 acres, bounded by Bancroft Way to the south, Hearst Avenue to the north, Oxford Street to the west, and Gayley Road to the east. With more than 30,000 students and a full-time faculty of 1,400, the university, known simply as “Cal,” is one of the leading intellectual centers in the United States and a major site for scientific research.

The Berkeley Visitor Information Center (University Hall, Room 101, 2200 University Ave., at Oxford St. | 510/642–5215 | www.berkeley.edu | Weekdays 8:30–4:30) is the starting point for the free, student-guided tours of the campus, which last 1½ hours and start at 10 on weekdays. (Weekend tours depart from Sather Tower.)

Student-guided campus tours leave from Sather Tower (South of University Dr. | $2 | Weekdays 10–4, Sat. 10–5, Sun. 10–1:30 and 3–5), the campus landmark popularly known as the Campanile, at 10 on Saturday and 1 on Sunday. The 307-foot structure, modeled on St. Mark’s Tower in Venice and completed in 1914, can be seen for miles. The carillon is played daily at 7:50 am, noon, and 6 pm and for an extended 45-minute concert Sunday at 2. Take the elevator up 175 feet; then walk another 38 steps to the observation deck for a view of the campus and a close-up look at the iron bells, each of which weighs up to 10,500 pounds.

Sproul Plaza (Telegraph Ave. and Bancroft Way), just inside the U.C. Berkeley campus border on Bancroft Way, was the site of several free-speech and civil-rights protests in the 1960s. Today a lively panorama of political and social activists, musicians, and students show off Berkeley’s flair for the bizarre. Preachers orate atop milk crates, amateur entertainers bang on makeshift drum sets, and protesters distribute leaflets about everything from marijuana to the Middle East. No matter what the combination, on weekdays when school is in swing, it always feels like a carnival. TIP Walk through at noon for the liveliest show of student spirit.

The collection at the University of California, Berkeley Art Museum & Pacific Film Archive (2626 Bancroft Way, between College Ave. and Bowditch St. | 510/642–0808, 510/642–1124 film-program information | www.bampfa.berkeley.edu | $10, free 1st Thurs. of month | Wed.–Sun. 11–5, Fri. 11–9) spans five centuries. Look for Jonathan Borofsky’s enormous orange-red Hammering Man sculpture, which can be seen from the outside through the museum’s floor-to-ceiling windows. Among the other noteworthy holdings here are a series of vibrant paintings by abstract expressionist Hans Hofmann. The downstairs galleries, which house rotating exhibits, are always free. The museum’s raw foods café is famous, and you can also find some cooked options, too. The Pacific Film Archive, on the ground floor, has a library and hosts programs about historic and contemporary films, but its main theater sits across the street at 2575 Bancroft Way, near Bowditch Street.

Thanks to Berkeley’s temperate climate, about 13,500 species of plants from all over the world flourish in the 34-acre University of California Botanical Garden (200 Centennial Dr. | 510/643–2755 | botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu | $9, free 1st Thurs. of month | Daily 9–5. Closed 1st Tues. of month). Free garden tours are given Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday at 1:30. Benches and shady picnic tables make this a relaxing place to take in breathtaking views.

At this dazzling hands-on Lawrence Hall of Science (Centennial Dr. near Grizzly Peak Blvd. | 510/642–5132 | www.lawrencehallofscience.org | $12 | Daily 10–5), kids can look at insects under microscopes, solve crimes using chemical forensics, and explore the physics of baseball. On weekends there are special lectures, demonstrations, and planetarium shows. Popular (and free) stargazing sessions take place on the first and third Saturday of each month, weather permitting.

Where to Eat in Berkeley

Dining in Berkeley is a low-key affair; even in the finest restaurants, most folks dress casually. Late diners be forewarned: Berkeley is an “early to bed” kind of town.

Angeline’s Louisana Kitchen.
$ | SOUTHERN | There’s always a line winding out the door for the delicious food at Angeline’s. The brick walls, maps of Louisana, ceiling fans and true New Orleans music create a festive atmosphere that is both welcoming and exciting. Specialties include Voo Doo shrimp with blue lake beans, crawfish étouffée and buttermilk fried chicken. A lot of love goes into the food here and the Creole pecan pie is so good, you’ll be coming back for more. | Average main: $14 | 2261 Shattuck Ave | 94704 | 510/548-6900.

Bette’s Oceanview Diner.
$ | AMERICAN | Buttermilk pancakes are just one of the specialties at this 1930s-inspired diner complete with checkered floors and burgundy booths. Huevos rancheros and lox and eggs are other breakfast options; kosher franks, generous slices of pizza, and a slew of sandwiches are available for lunch. The wait for a seat can be quite long; thankfully, 4th Street was made for strolling. TIP If you’re starving, head to Bette’s to Go, next door, for takeout. | Average main: $10 | 1807 4th St., near Delaware St., 4th Street | 94710 | 510/644–3230 | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.

Café Rouge.
$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | You can recover from 4th Street shopping in this spacious two-story bistro complete with zinc bar, skylights, and festive lanterns. The short, seasonal menu ranges from the sophisticated, such as rack of lamb and juniper-berry-cured pork chops, to the homey, like spit-roasted chicken or pork loin, or cheddar-topped burgers. If you visit by day, be certain to peek at the meat market in the back. | Average main: $21 | 1782 4th St., at Delaware St., 4th Street | 94710 | 510/525–1440 | No dinner Mon.

César.
$ | SPANISH | In true Spanish style, dinners are served late at César, whose kitchen closes at 11:30 pm on Friday and Saturday and at 11 pm the rest of the week. Couples spill out from its street-level windows on warm nights, or rub shoulders at the polished bar or center communal table. Founded by a trio of former Chez Panisse chefs, César is like a first cousin to Chez Panisse, each restaurant recommending the other if there’s a long wait ahead. For tapas and perfectly grilled bocadillos (small sandwiches), there’s no better choice. The bar also makes a mean martini and has an impressive wine list. TIP Come early to get seated quickly and also to hear your tablemates; the room gets loud when the bar is in full swing. | Average main: $10 | 1515 Shattuck Ave., at Vine St., North Berkeley | 94709 | 510/883–0222 | Reservations not accepted.

Fodor’s Choice | Chez Panisse Café & Restaurant.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | At Chez Panisse even humble pizza is reincarnated, with innovative toppings of the freshest local ingredients. The downstairs portion of Alice Waters’s legendary eatery is noted for its formality and personal service. The daily-changing multicourse dinners are prix-fixe ($$$$), with the cost slightly lower on weekdays. Upstairs, in the informal café, the crowd is livelier, the prices are lower ($$–$$$), and the ever-changing menu is à la carte. The food is simpler, too: penne with new potatoes, arugula, and sheep’s-milk cheese; fresh figs with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and arugula; and grilled tuna with Savoy cabbage, for example. Legions of loyal fans insist that Chez Panisse lives up to its reputation and delivers a dining experience well worth the price. Visiting foodies won’t want to miss a meal here; be sure to make reservations a few weeks ahead of time. | Prix-fixe: $95 | 1517 Shattuck Ave., at Vine St., North Berkeley | 94709 | 510/548–5525 restaurant, 510/548–5049 café | www.chezpanisse.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. No lunch in the restaurant.

Freehouse.
$ | MODERN BRITISH | High ceilings, a warm fireplace, worn leather sofas, and a snooker table lend this restaurant the feel of a British country pub. The bar is bright, busy, and well stocked with whiskies and local beers on tap. The food, from sustainable sources, includes items like pot pies, cider-brined pork chops, and Loch Duart salmon burgers. There’s a spacious patio outside. | Average main: $14 | 2700 Brancroft Way, at College Ave. | 94704 | 510/647–2300 | berkeleyfreehouse.com | Reservations not accepted.

Gather.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Here organic, sustainable and all things Berkeley reside harmoniously beneath one tasty roof. This vibrant, well-lit eatery boasts an inviting patio, comfy leather chairs, and a variety of shiny wood furnishings. Everything feels contemporary and local, especially the food. The stinging nettles pizza is refreshing and the grilled chicken with beluga lentils is oh so juicy. This is a haven for vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free eaters, but there’s plenty for meat eaters to choose from too. And the desserts don’t get much better than the chocolate budino with braised cherries and Sonoma salt. Yum, yum. | Average main: $20 | 2200 Oxford Street | 94704 | 510/809-0400.

Lalime’s.
$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Inside a charming, flower-covered house, this restaurant serves dishes that reflect the entire Mediterranean region. The menu, constantly changing and unfailingly great, depends on the availability of fresh seasonal ingredients. Choices might include grilled ahi tuna or creamy Italian risotto. Light colors used in the dining room, which has two levels, help to create a cheerful mood. A star in its own right, Lalime’s is a good second choice if Chez Panisse is booked. | Average main: $22 | 1329 Gilman St., at Tevlin St., North Berkeley | 94706 | 510/527–9838 | Reservations essential | No lunch.

Picante.
$ | MEXICAN | A barnlike space full of cheerful Mexican tiles and folk-art masks, Picante is a find for anyone seeking good Mexican food for a song. The masa (flour) is freshly ground for the tortillas and tamales, the salsas are complex, and the flavor combinations are inventive. Try tamales filled with butternut squash and chilis or a simple taco of roasted poblanos and sautéed onions; we challenge you to finish a plate of supernachos. | Average main: $11 | 1328 6th St., North Berkeley | 94710 | 510/525–3121 | Reservations not accepted.

Rick & Ann’s.
$ | AMERICAN | Haute comfort food is the focus here. The brunches are legendary for quality and value, and customers line up outside the door before the restaurant opens on the weekend. If you come during prime brunch hours, expect a long wait, but the soft-style eggs are worth it. Pancakes, waffles, and French toast are more flavorful than usual, with variations such as potato-cheese and orange-rice pancakes. Lunch and dinner offer burgers, favorites such as Mom’s macaroni and cheese, and chicken potpie, but always with a festive twist. Reservations are accepted 48 hours in advance for dinner and for lunch parties of six or more, but, alas, you can’t reserve a table for brunch. | Average main: $14 | 2922 Domingo Ave., Claremont | 94705 | 510/649–8538 | No dinner Mon.

Rivoli.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Italian-inspired dishes using fresh, mostly organic California ingredients star on a menu that changes every three weeks. Typical meals include fresh line-caught fish, pastas, and inventive offerings such as its trademark Portobello fritters with aioli. Desserts might include pear granita with gingersnaps or a refreshing Meyer lemon tart. A lovely back garden and attentive service adds to the overall appeal, but some find the tables are too closely spaced. The small front bar is a cozy spot for a drink and dessert, but it’s standing room only on a busy night. | Average main: $23 | 1539 Solano Ave., at Neilson St., North Berkeley | 94707 | 510/526–2542 | Reservations essential | No lunch.

Saul’s.
$ | AMERICAN | Well known for its homemade sodas and enormous sandwiches, the Saul’s of today also uses sustainably sourced seafood, grass-fed beef, and organic eggs. The restaurant is a Berkeley institution, and has a loyal clientele that swears by the pastrami sandwiches, stuffed cabbage rolls, and tuna melts. For breakfast, the challah French toast is so thick it’s almost too big to bite and the deli omelets are served pancake style. The high ceilings and red-leather booths add to the friendly atmosphere. Don’t overlook the glass deli case where you can order food to go. | Average main: $13 | 1475 Shattuck Ave., near Vine St., North Berkeley | 94709 | 510/848–3354 | www.saulsdeli.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Thanksgiving and Yom Kippur.

Where to Stay in Berkeley

For inexpensive lodging, investigate University Avenue, west of campus. The area is noisy, congested, and somewhat dilapidated, but does include a few decent motels and chain properties. All Berkeley lodgings, except for the swanky Claremont, are strictly midrange.

The Bancroft Hotel.
$ | HOTEL | Lovingly remodeled in 2012, this new green hotel is fresh, stylish and completely eco-friendly. The American clay walls literally clean the air, the chic drapes are made from recycled soda pop bottles and the rich wooden floors come from sustainably harvested trees. The decor is mostly soothing greens and browns, and the bedroom furniture is designed to fit the 1920s style building. The hotel has its own organic bakery in the back, which fills every morning with the aroma of fresh bread. Pros: heating under the floorboards; great rooftop deck; closest hotel in Berkeley to campus. Cons: some of the rooms are on the small side; bathrooms could be freshened up. TripAdvisor: “great staff,” “beautiful but noisy,” “great breakfast.” | Rooms from: $120 | 2680 Bancroft Way | 94704 | 510/549-1000 | 22 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Claremont Resort and Spa.
$$$ | HOTEL | Straddling the Oakland–Berkeley border, the hotel beckons like a gleaming white castle in the hills, luring traveling executives that come for the business amenities, including T-1 Internet connections, guest email addresses, and oversize desks. The Claremont also draws honeymooners and leisure travelers with its luxurious suites, therapeutic massages, and personalized yoga workouts at the on-site spa. The rooms on the spa side of the hotel glow with new fixtures and furniture. Some offer spa tubs and, if you’re high enough, spectacular bay views. (Another advantage: the scents wafting upward from the spa treatment rooms.) Pros: amazing spa; supervised child care; some rooms have great views of the bay. Cons: parking is pricey; additional facilities charge for use of spa, tennis courts, pool, gym etc.; no Wi-Fi in rooms; breakfast is an additional fee. TripAdvisor: “excellent gym and good food,” “Claremont bliss,” “great facilities.” | Rooms from: $249 | 41 Tunnel Rd., at Ashby and Domingo Aves., Claremont | 94705 | 510/843–3000, 800/551–7266 | www.claremontresort.com | 249 rooms, 30 suites.

Holiday Inn Express.
$ | HOTEL | Convenient to the freeway and 4th Street shopping, this inviting, peach-and-beige hotel offers lots of bang for the buck. The two-story property is surprisingly elegant; high ceilings lend the lobby and rooms an airy quality. Each room has a small kitchen area with a refrigerator, microwave, sink, and cabinets. The hotel also offers a free breakfast bar, a small but well-equipped gym, and free access to a business center. Pros: newly decorated rooms; good breakfast. Cons: area can get noisy and congested with traffic during commute hours; a 15-minute drive to UC campus. TripAdvisor: “nice and quiet room,” “dependable as usual,” “very helpful staff.” | Rooms from: $144 | 1175 University Ave., at Curtis St. | 94702 | 510/548–1700, 866/548–1700 | www.hiexberkeley.com | 69 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.

Hotel Durant.
$$ | HOTEL | Long a mainstay of parents visiting their children at U.C. Berkeley, this boutique hotel is also a good option for those who want to be a short walk from Telegraph Avenue. The rooms, updated in 2006 with new bathrooms and dark wood set against deep jewel tones, are small without feeling cramped. The historic photos of Berkeley highlight the hotel’s storied past, and the central location is perfect for the car-less. This hotel is also eco-conscious, using nonchemical, all-natural cleaning products. TIP Guests receive free passes to the extensive Cal Recreational Sports Facility, known as RSF. Pros: blackout shades; organic bathrobes. Cons: downstairs bar can get noisy during Cal games; parking can be pricey. TripAdvisor: “quirky little hotel,” “very pleasantly surprised,” “attentive and charming staff.” | Rooms from: $179 | 2600 Durant Ave., at Bowditch St. | 94704 | 510/845–8981 | www.hoteldurant.com | 139 rooms, 5 suites.

Hotel Shattuck Plaza.
$$ | HOTEL | In 2009 this elegant boutique hotel in the heart of Berkeley underwent a major multimillion-dollar renovation, which successfully combined turn-of-the-20th-century glamour (the hotel was built in 1910) with all the contemporary amenities. From the sparkling chandeliers in the lobby to the HD TV’s in every room to the eco-conscious business practices, this hotel has quickly made its mark. Five, the hotel’s restaurant, prides itself on farm-to-table dining, and the bar is well known for its tasty cocktails. Pros: central location; modern facilities; good views; great restaurant. Cons: pricey parking; limited fitness center. TripAdvisor: “very comfortable,” “nice staff,” “charming original Berkeley hotel.” | Rooms from: $185 | 2086 Allston Way, at Shattuck Ave. | 94704 | 510/845–7300 | www.hotelshattuckplaza.com | 199 rooms, 17 suites.

Nightlife and the Arts in Berkeley

Berkeley Repertory Theatre.
One of the region’s highly respected resident professional companies and a Tony Award winner for Outstanding Regional Theatre (in 1997), the theater performs classic and contemporary plays from autumn to spring. Well-known pieces such as Mother Courage and Oliver Twist mix with edgier fare. The theater’s complex is near BART’s Downtown Berkeley Station. | 2025 Addison St. | 94704 | 510/647–2949 | www.berkeleyrep.org.

Berkeley Symphony Orchestra.
The works of 20th-century composers are a focus of this prominent orchestra, but traditional pieces are also performed. BSO plays a handful of concerts each year, in Zellerbach Hall and other locations. | 1942 University Ave., Suite 207 | 94704 | 510/841–2800 | www.berkeleysymphony.org.

Cal Performances.
The series, running from September through May at Zellerbach Hall and various other U.C. Berkeley venues, offers the Bay Area’s most varied bill of internationally acclaimed artists in all disciplines, from classical soloists to the latest jazz, world-music, theater, and dance ensembles. Look for frequent campus colloquiums or preshow talks featuring Berkeley’s professors. | Zellerbach Hall, Telegraph Ave. and Bancroft Way | 94720 | 510/642–9988 | calperformances.org.

Fodor’s Choice | Freight & Salvage Coffeehouse.
Some of the most talented practitioners of folk, blues, Cajun, and bluegrass perform in this alcohol-free space, one of the finest folk houses in the country. Most tickets are less than $20. | 2020 Addison St., between Shattuck and Milvia Sts. | 94702 | 510/644–2020 | www.thefreight.org.

Shopping in Berkeley

Fodor’s Choice | Amoeba Music.
Heaven for audiophiles, this legendary Berkeley favorite is the place to head for new and used CDs, records, cassettes, and DVDs. The dazzling stock includes thousands of titles for all music tastes. The store even has its own record label. There are now branches in San Francisco and Hollywood, but this is the original. | 2455 Telegraph Ave., at Haste St. | 94704 | 510/549–1125.

Body Time.
Founded in Berkeley in 1970, this local chain emphasizes the premium-quality ingredients it uses in its natural perfumes and skin-care and aromatherapy products. Sustainably harvested essential oils that you can combine and dilute to create your own personal fragrances are the specialty. Its distinct Citrus, Lavender-Mint, and China Rain scents are all popular. | 1942 Shattuck Ave., at Berkeley Way | 94704 | 510/841–5818.

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South on the Peninsula

Most San Francisco day trips call for heading east (to Oakland and Berkeley), or north (to the Wine Country). But there’s another way to go … .

The undeveloped hills, rugged coastline, and sleepy towns and inns of the San Mateo County coast are only a few miles south of the city. To get there, set out from San Francisco down scenic Route 1, hugging the twists and turns of the coast. As you wind your way past Christmas tree farms, pumpkin patches, and rural flower growers, you’ll find that most towns dotting the coast are no more than a few blocks long, with just enough room for a couple of bed-and-breakfasts, restaurants, and boutiques or galleries. San Mateo County claims some of the most beautiful and most accessible beaches in all of California.

Farther south is the Inland Peninsula, an area often passed over by visitors to the Bay Area. Many associate the area with the blandness and urban sprawl that have long been synonymous with Silicon Valley. Although much of the area between Santa Clara County and San Francisco is clogged with modern office complexes and strip-mall shopping centers, the peninsula also has lovely hills, redwood forests, and historic mansions.

Palo Alto is home to Stanford University, which occupies 8,200 acres of what was once railroad tycoon Leland Stanford’s horse farm. (Stanford and his wife, Jane, founded the university in memory of their only son, who died of typhoid fever.) The campus is still referred to as “the Farm” today. Stanford’s Cantor Arts Center boasts a wonderful outdoor Rodin sculpture garden and a diverse permanent collection, in addition to rotating exhibits. In downtown Palo Alto, a hub of upscale restaurants and shops caters to the local high-tech elite as well as the university crowd. The wealthy residential community of Woodside harbors one of California’s few remaining grand country houses, Filoli, as well as countless hiking and biking trails. Throughout the rest of the inland peninsula, former country estates built by the mining and transportation “bonanza kings” of the 19th century lie hidden in the hills, waiting to be discovered by those who care to look.

Much of your first impression of this area will depend on where and when you enter. Take the 30-mile stretch of U.S. 101 from San Francisco along the eastern side of the peninsula and you’ll see office complex after shopping center after business tower—and you’ll likely get caught in horrific morning and evening commuter traffic. On the west side, however, the less-crowded Interstate 280 takes you past hills, lakes, and reservoirs.

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Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant.
Lynch’s newsletters describing his finds are legendary, as is his friendship with Alice Waters of Chez Panisse. Credited with taking American appreciation of French wine to another level, this shop is a great place to peruse as you educate your palate. The friendly salespeople can direct you to the latest French bargains. | 1605 San Pablo Ave., at Dwight Way | 94702 | 510/524–1524.

Moe’s Books.
The spirit of Moe—the cantankerous, cigar-smoking late proprietor—lives on in this four-story house of books. Students and professors come here for used books, including large sections of literary and cultural criticism, art books, and literature in foreign languages. | 2476 Telegraph Ave., near Haste St. | 94704 | 510/849–2087.

Rasputin Music.
A huge selection of new music for every taste draws crowds. In any other town its stock of used CDs and vinyl would certainly be unsurpassed. | 2403 Telegraph Ave., at Channing Way | 94704 | 510/848–9004.

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