Schiacciata all'Uva

GRAPE FOCACCIA

Schiacciata means “flattened” and is the local Tuscan name for the flat bread known as focaccia in other areas. In the fall, when the grapes are being harvested, it is made with grapes. Some versions contain rosemary, some use milk, and some have egg; some mix the grapes in the dough, and some put the grap es on top—but all of them use grapes with seeds for the added crunch.

MAKES 1 FLAT BREAD; SERVES 12

1 tablespoon active dry yeast, or 1 ounce fresh cake yeast

3 cups warm water (105° to 115°F)

¹/2 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling

7 to 8 cups unbleached all-purpose flours

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts, plus ¹/2 cup walnut halves

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 pound Sangiovese grapes (or your favorite local variety)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

In a large bowl, stir the yeast into the warm water until it dissolves. Add the ¹/2 cup sugar, 1 cup of the flour, the chopped walnuts, and salt and stir to mix well. One cup at a time, stir in as much of the remaining flour as needed to make a workable dough. Transfer to a floured work surface, and knead for 10 to 15 minutes, or until smooth and elastic, adding tablespoonfuls of the remaining flour as needed.

Shape the dough into a ball, and put in a lightly oiled bowl. Turn the ball to coat it with oil. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1 hour, or until doubled in volume.

Lightly oil a baking sheet. Punch down the dough and place it in the prepared pan. Press and push the dough into the edges of the pan. Brush with the olive oil, and press the grapes and walnut halves into the dough. Sprinkle with sugar and let rise for 45 minutes, or until doubled in height. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden. Let cool to room temperature and cut into squares to serve.

Pane Sciocco Toscano

UNSALTED TUSCAN BREAD

Many of the classic Tuscan recipes were born from a need to use up dry or day-old bread. Since Tuscan bread was made only once a week and was made without salt, which helps keep bread moist, it dried out quickly. Salt was expensive for the peasant farmer as it was heavily taxed, and he used it only for the things that were essential, such as curing meats and making cheese.

The recipe below was inspired by two of my colleagues, Nancy Harmon Jenkins and Carol Field. We all agree that a truly traditional Tuscan bread should be made with stone-ground flour and good water. It should be fermented slowly, and ideally should be baked in a wood-fired oven. A pizza stone in a regular oven is a good alternative.

A slow fermentation is best, using a starter. If you live near a winery you can make a natural starter: Simply leave a slurry of equal parts of flour and water in the fermentation room overnight, and wild yeasts from the fermenting grapes will start to grow in the mixture.

The following starter can be made in your own kitchen. To keep a continuous source of starter, make a double batch of this recipe, then take half of it out before continuing on to make the bread as directed. The reserved starter should be refrigerated in an airtight container and used within 10 to 14 days, or be fed once a week by stirring in ¹/2 cup warm water and 1 cup of flour. To bake later, let the starter warm to room temperature and proceed with the bread recipe.

MAKES 1 LARGE LOAF OR 2 MEDIUM LOAVES

DAY 1: MAKING THE STARTER

1 teaspoon active dry yeast

1 cup warm spring water (105° to 115°F)

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

In a large bowl, stir the yeast into the warm water until it dissolves. Gradually whisk in the flour until blended. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a cool place for at least 8 hours or overnight.

DAY 2: MAKING THE STARTER DOUGH

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup warm spring water (105° to 115°F)

Starter from Day 1

Stir the flour and water into the starter until blended. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a cool place for at least 8 hours or as long as overnight.

DAY 3: MAKING THE BREAD

2 cups warm spring water (105° to 115°F)

6 to 7 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Starter Dough from Day 2

Cornmeal for pizza paddle

Add the water and 1 cup of the flour to the starter dough and stir until blended. Continue stirring in 1 cup of flour at a time until a workable dough is formed. Transfer the dough to a floured board, and knead for 10 to 15 minutes, or until smooth and elastic, adding tablespoonfuls of flour as needed to prevent sticking.

Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Turn the ball to coat it with oil. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in volume; because of the slow-rising starter, this may take 2 hours or longer.

Punch down the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead lightly and shape into a large round loaf. Place the loaf on a pizza paddle or rimless baking sheet that has been sprinkled with cornmeal. The cornmeal will act as little ball bearings to help slide the loaf into the oven later. Cover with a damp towel, then let it rise for 1 hour.

Preheat an oven, with a pizza stone inside, to 475°F. Score the top of the loaf with a razor blade or sharp knife in a crosshatch design, and slide the loaf onto the preheated pizza stone. Bake for 10 minutes, then decrease the heat to 375°F. Bake for 30 minutes longer, or until the bread is golden brown.

Sfratti

WALNUT AND HONEY BARS

Sfratti, a sweet served at Rosh Hashanah, is one of the old recipes of Pitigliano that has been recognized by Slow Food (www.slowfood.com) as an important Italian-Jewish tradition. The sfratto is a thin layer of unleavened dough filled with honey, walnuts, orange zest, and nutmeg and baked. Shaped like a large cigar, it recalls the batons officials used to bang on the doors of Jews to evict them. The word sfratto means “eviction.”

MAKES ABOUT 6 DOZEN SLICES

PASTRY

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup sugar

Pinch of salt

¹/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

²/3 cup sweet white wine

FILLING

1 cup honey

4 cups walnuts, chopped

2 teaspoons grated orange zest

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¹/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 egg yolk, beaten

For the pastry: In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Stir with a whisk to blend. Stir in the olive oil and wine to make a smooth dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

For the filling: In a medium saucepan, heat the honey over medium heat. Add the walnuts, orange zest, cinnamon, and cloves, and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes, or until thickened. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

Divide the chilled dough into 8 pieces. On a lightly floured work surface, roll a piece of dough into a 4 by 10-inch rectangle. Spoon ¹/2 cup of the filling along the center of the length of the dough and roll it up. Place on the prepared baking sheet, seam side down. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling. Brush the pastry with the egg yolk, and bake for 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Transfer the pastries from the pan to a wire rack to cool completely. To serve, cut each pastry into 1-inch-thick slices. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks.

Crostate di Prugne

PLUM JAM TART

Our local prune plums are called cosce di monache, or nuns’ thighs. Could it be because they are so sweet? I make a simple jam with them in July when it seems like it’s raining plums: two-thirds pitted plums to one-third sugar by weight, cooked until quite thick, then puréed with a food mill. Any thick jam or preserves can be used in this tart. The short pastry crust is known as pasta frolla in Italy.

MAKES 1 (12 BY 15-INCH) TART; SERVES 8

SHORT PASTRY CRUST

4¹/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

2 cups sugar

Pinch of salt

¹/2 teaspoon baking powder

¹/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 pound cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

5 large eggs

Grated zest of 1 lemon

¹/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1¹/4 cups plum jam or your favorite flavor

1 egg yolk beaten with 1 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

For the crust: In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Stir with a whisk to blend. Using your fingertips or a pastry cutter, work or cut the butter pieces into the flour mixture to form pea-sized crumbs.

In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, lemon zest, and vanilla. Whisk to blend well. With a fork, stir the eggs into the flour mixture, blending just until incorporated. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface, and press the dough gently into a smooth rectangle about 10 by 12 inches. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll two-thirds of the dough out to a 12 by 15-inch rectangle. Transfer it to the prepared pan, and spread the jam evenly over the pastry, leaving a ¹/2-inch border.

Roll out the remaining dough and cut into ¹/2-inch-wide strips. Crisscross the strips diagonally on the top of the tart, making a lattice design. Brush the lattice with the egg yolk mixture and sprinkle with the granulated sugar. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the crust is golden. Let cool completely and cut into squares to serve.

Torta di Ricotta

RICOTTA CAKE

This is a simple dessert, moist with ricotta cheese and fragrant with lemon zest. Like most Italian desserts, it is very lightly sweetened. Ricotta is actually a by-product of the cheese-making process. Once the curd has been removed to age and become cheese, the liquid that is left (the whey) is recooked, which is what the Italian word ricotta means. The heated whey thickens and becomes a creamy delicacy. If you don’t have a cheesemaker nearby, look for fresh whole-milk ricotta from a cheese shop, natural food store, or gourmet market; it will have more flavor than other ricottas.

MAKES 1 (9-INCH) CAKE; SERVES 8

3 large eggs, separated

¹/2 cup sugar

1¹/4 cups (10 ounces) whole-milk ricotta cheese

¹/3 cup whole milk

Grated zest of 2 lemons

Pinch of salt

1¹/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1¹/2 teaspoons baking powder

Powdered sugar for dusting

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Liberally butter and lightly flour a 9-inch springform pan; knock out the excess flour.

In a large bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar, and beat until light and creamy. Stir in the ricotta, milk, lemon zest, and salt. In a medium bowl, combine the flour and baking powder, and stir with a whisk to blend. Add the flour mixture to the ricotta mixture, stirring just enough to mix.

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, stir one-third of the beaten whites into the batter, then carefully fold in the remaining whites until blended.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the cake pulls away from the sides of the pan. Let cool completely, then loosen the edges with a thin-bladed knife and release the sides of the springform pan. Dust with powdered sugar and cut into wedges to serve.

Castagnaccio

CHESTNUT CAKE

This dense cake is an acquired taste, and it has taken me almost twenty years to acquire it. But its musky chewiness is much loved by Tuscans. The version below is from Renza del Bianco. I sometimes add raisins, and I love it topped with fresh ricotta and chestnut honey. The cake can also be made with walnuts instead of pine nuts.

MAKES 1 (10-INCH) CAKE; SERVES 6

Olive oil and dried bread crumbs or flour for cake pan

5 cups chestnut flour

¹/2 cup sugar

Pinch of salt

3 cups water

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Grated zest of 1 lemon

¹/4 cup pine nuts, toasted

1 cup whole-milk ricotta, preferably sheep’s milk, for serving

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 10-inch springform pan with olive oil and dust it with bread crumbs; tap out the excess.

In a large bowl, combine the chestnut flour, sugar, and salt. Stir with a whisk to blend, then stir in the water, olive oil, and lemon zest to make a thin batter like pancake batter. Pour into the prepared pan. Sprinkle the pine nuts over the batter and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. Remove the sides of the pan, cut the cake into wedges, and serve topped with a dollop of ricotta cheese.

Ciambellone

TUSCAN RING CAKE

Our family often goes to the tiny Trattoria Tripolitania in Sarteano on Saturday nights for honest homemade food. This simple cake made by the owner/cook Franca Magi makes our adopted grandpa, Virio Neri, swoon with memories of his childhood. “My mother used to bake this cake with a can in the middle to form the hole,” reminisces Virio. When speaking of times past, Franca expresses a sentiment that I heard from many people. “We had less, but we were better off; the food was poco, ma buono, simple and full of flavor. We appreciated what we had more because it was harder to come by.”

MAKES 1 (10-INCH) TUBE CAKE; SERVES 8

5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1¹/2 teaspoons baking powder

Pinch of salt

5 large eggs

2¹/2 cups sugar

1 cup milk

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly butter and flour a 12-inch tube pan; knock out the excess flour.

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Stir with a whisk to blend. Set aside.

In another bowl, whisk the eggs until blended, then gradually whisk in the sugar. Stir in the milk, olive oil, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Fold in the flour mixture just until blended.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the top is golden and the cake pulls away from the sides of the pan. Remove from the oven, invert on a cake rack, and let cool completely. Run a thin knife around the sides of the pan and invert the cake onto a plate. Cut into wedges to serve.

Scarpaccia

ZUCCHINI CAKE

Renza del Bianco shared this recipe, which falls between a sweet and a savory dish, and is a typical dessert from the Versilia coast. It’s ideal to make in summer when the zucchini harvest is in.

MAKES 1 (10-INCH) CAKE; SERVES 10 TO 12

Olive oil and dried bread crumbs or flour for pan

1¹/3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1¹/3 cups sugar

2 large eggs, beaten

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Pinch of salt

6 to 8 leaves fresh basil, minced

1 pound zucchini, thinly sliced crosswise

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a 10-inch springform pan and dust it with bread crumbs; knock out the excess.

In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, eggs, olive oil, basil, and salt. Stir until well blended. Add the zucchini and stir well. Scrape into the prepared pan and smooth the top.

Bake for 45 minutes, or until the edges pull away from the sides of the pan and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Cut into wedges to serve.

Cenci

FRIED CARNIVAL SWEETS

Lucia Giovanna Puccetti of Pietrasanta shared her recipe for this fried pastry. Made at carnival time, it goes by many names: chiacchere (“gossips”), nastrini (“ribbons”), and cenci or stracci (“rags”). The shapes vary from bowties to diamonds to simple strips. These are best when first made, but can be kept for a few days in an airtight container.

MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN CENCI

¹/3 cup granulated sugar

4 large eggs

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sparkling water, dry white wine, or vin santo

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Pinch of salt

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Canola oil for deep-frying

Powdered sugar for dusting

In a large bowl, combine the granulated sugar, eggs, and butter. Beat with a wooden spoon or electric mixer until creamy. Stir in the sparkling water, lemon zest, and salt. Stir in the flour, blending to a stiff dough. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a thickness of ¹/8 inch. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut the dough into 1 by 3-inch strips. Make a cut down the center of each strip, leaving the ends attached.

In a deep, heavy pot, heat 3 inches of oil to 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer. Working in batches, fry the pastry for about 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden. Using a wire skimmer, transfer to paper towels to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar.

Cantucci

ALMOND BISCOTTI

The word biscotti literally means “twice-cooked,” as these hard cookies are first baked in a loaf, then sliced and baked again. The classic Tuscan biscotti known as cantucci will keep nearly forever in an airtight container, and are splendid dipped in sweet wine or coffee.

MAKES ABOUT 2 DOZEN COOKIES

1³/4 cups cake flour

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

¹/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup unblanched almonds, toasted

4 large eggs

³/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, combine the cake flour, all-purpose flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Stir with a whisk to blend. Stir in the almonds.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs and sugar together until pale in color. Stir in the vanilla and orange zest. Stir the egg mixture into the dry ingredients just until blended. Do not overmix. The dough will be sticky.

Moisten your fingers with water and transfer the dough to the prepared pan, forming a log about 3 inches wide. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool slightly. Decrease the oven temperature to 275°F. Replace the parchment paper on the baking sheet.

Using a large, sharp knife, cut the log crosswise into ¹/2-inch-thick slices on the diagonal. Place the slices on the prepared pan and bake for about 20 minutes, or until a pale golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer to wire racks to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 weeks.

Clockwise from top, center: Cantucci, Ricciarelli, Brutti Ma Buoni, Cavallucci

Ricciarelli

SIENESE ALMOND COOKIES

When I think of Siena, I think of these cookies. They are too rich to have been part of the daily diet in hard times, but they could have been a special treat for farms with an almond tree. The original recipe is quite lengthy, taking days to prepare, but I think my simplified version is reasonable.

MAKES ABOUT 2 DOZEN COOKIES

1 cup (6 ounces) blanched almonds

1 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

³/4 teaspoon baking powder

1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest

4 large egg whites

¹/8 teaspoon almond extract

¹/2 cup powdered sugar, sifted, for coating

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a food processor, place the almonds, ³/4 cup granulated sugar, and flour; process to a fine powder. Add the baking powder and orange zest. Pulse to blend well.

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff, gradually adding the remaining ¹/4 cup sugar, beating until glossy peaks form. Add the almond extract.

Remove the almond mixture from the food processor and place in a large bowl. Stir one-third of the egg white mixture into the almond mixture to lighten it, then carefully fold in the rest of the egg white mixture with a rubber spatula.

Drop tablespoonfuls of batter 2 inches apart onto the prepared pan and dust liberally with the powdered sugar. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until lightly golden and firm to the touch. Let cool on the pan for 10 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 weeks.

Brutti Ma Buoni

UGLY BUT GOOD COOKIES

Although it seems counterproductive in this recipe to beat the egg whites and then cook them, the beating process changes the composition of the batter and gives the cookies their unique chewy character. This basic recipe can be varied by adding lemon or orange zest, powdered cocoa, or a splash of Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur) to the nut mixture. In place of almonds or hazelnuts, you can use pine nuts or walnuts.

MAKES ABOUT 2 DOZEN COOKIES

2 cups blanched almonds, toasted, or hazelnuts, toasted and skinned

¹/4 cup granulated sugar

¹/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

A few gratings of nutmeg

4 large egg whites at room temperature

Pinch of salt

³/4 cup superfine sugar

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a food processor, combine the nuts, granulated sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Pulse to a coarse meal. Set aside.

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the superfine sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until all the sugar has been added and stiff, glossy peaks form.

Using a rubber spatula, fold the egg whites into the nut mixture, and transfer the batter to a medium saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for about 20 minutes, or until the batter thickens and turns a light golden color.

Drop teaspoonfuls of batter 2 inches apart onto the prepared pan and bake for 30 minutes, or until dry on the outside and firm to the touch. Transfer the cookies from the pan to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 weeks.

Cavallucci

SIENESE HORSE COOKIES

Siena has made these anise-flavored cookies since the Renaissance. I would guess that the name has something to do with the Palio horse race, even though historians say it is because they were originally made for the men who worked in the stables.

MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN COOKIES

1³/4 cups granulated sugar

³/4 cup water

2 tablespoons honey

4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon aniseeds

1¹/2 teaspoons baking powder

Powdered sugar for coating

In a small saucepan, combine the granulated sugar, water, and honey. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

In a large bowl, combine the flour, aniseeds, and baking powder. Stir in the sugar mixture until blended to make a fairly stiff dough. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Roll heaping teaspoonfuls of the dough into 1-inch-diameter balls. Roll each in powdered sugar to coat, and place on the prepared pan 2 inches apart. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Transfer from the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Store up to 6 weeks in an airtight container.

Biscotti dei Poveri

PEASANT COOKIES

As their name implies, these cookies are made with simple ingredients and use dry or day-old bread in place of flour. You can also embellish them with more nuts, vanilla extract, or grated orange zest.

MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN COOKIES

8 ounces dry or day-old bread

2 cups whole milk, warmed

3 eggs

1 cup sugar

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

¹/2 cup pine nuts

¹/2 cup raisins

¹/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Tear or cut the bread into pieces and place in a large bowl. Cover with the milk and set aside for an hour or so until the bread is softened.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place the softened bread in a food processor and puree until smooth. In a large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar for 5 minutes, until thick and creamy. Add the olive oil, pine nuts, raisins, cinnamon, and soaked bread. Mix well. Drop the batter by tablespoonfuls onto the prepared pan. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Fichi allo Virio

VIRIO'S STUFFED FIGS

Virio is our adopted Italian grandfather, the cobbler of Montepulciano. He grew up there during World War II and remembers times of hunger and deprivation. But when he starts to talk about what his family ate, even though food was scarce, his memories are rich and include the stuffed figs his mother made every September. Hers were stuffed simply with walnuts and put into the wood-burning stove to melt to a juicy treat. This adaptation adds some creamy cheese.

SERVES 6

12 ripe figs

12 walnut halves

2 ounces Gorgonzola cheese

12 fig leaves, optional

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a 8-inch cake pan.

Cut a lengthwise slit in each fig. Insert a half walnut and a marble-sized piece of cheese. Close and place in the prepared cake pan. Cover lightly with aluminum foil and bake for 10 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and figs have softened.

VARIATION: If you have access to unsprayed fig leaves, place each stuffed fig on a fig leaf and wrap it like a package, tying it closed with string or raffia. Cook in a covered steamer over boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes. Don’t leave longer or the leaf will begin to cook, which can cause an unpleasant odor.

Mele al Forno

BAKED APPLES

In September, I have a bountiful harvest of little wild green apples from a tree in my garden. They make wonderful baked apples to stuff with cookie crumbs, spices, and sugar. Granny Smith apples would work well here.

SERVES 6

6 Cantucci, Brutti Ma Buoni, or purchased amaretti cookies

6 tablespoons sugar

Grated zest of 1 orange

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

A few gratings of nutmeg

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

3 Granny Smith apples, halved horizontally

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a casserole dish big enough to hold 6 apple halves.

In a food processor, combine the cookies, sugar, orange zest, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and pulse to a coarse meal. Remove half of the mixture and reserve. Add the butter to the remaining mixture in the food processor and pulse to make a creamy filling.

Using a melon baller, scoop out the apple cores, taking care not to break through the sides or bottoms. Place the apples in the prepared dish, cut side up. Scoop a heaping teaspoonful of the filling mixture into each apple. Sprinkle the reserved crumb mixture over the top. Cover the casserole with aluminum foil, making sure it doesn’t touch the apples, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the apples are soft. Serve warm.