Middle Chile

Why Go?

If you love wine, fine dining, never-ending springs, street art, skiing, hiking, mountain biking, surfing or just lazing for days on lost coasts, there's a spot in Middle Chile that was created just for you. This is Chile's most important wine-producing region, and the wineries and cozy bed and breakfasts of the sun-kissed Colchagua, Maule and Casablanca Valleys will tickle your palate and travel your senses. For board riders, there are killer breaks up and down the coast, with surf culture exploding in towns like Pichilemu and Buchupureo. Hikers and skiers will love the lost lagoons and steep pistes found eastward in the Andes, while cultural explorers won't want to miss the murals and tumble-fumble alleyways of Valparaíso and the hard-rocking musical exploits of Concepción. The 2010 earthquake hit this region especially hard, but the recovery continues, and most businesses are back up and running.

When to Go

AJun–Sep Frequent snowfall brings skiers and snowboarders to the slopes in full force.

AOct–Dec Before the summertime rush, the beach towns are calm and hotel rates are cheaper.

AJan–May Wine lovers migrate to the vineyards for the grape harvest and the festivals surrounding it.

Best Places to Eat

A Café Vinilo

A Vino Bello

A Lapostolle

A Restaurante Miguel Torres

A Emiliana

Best Places to Sleep

A La Joya del Mar

A Zerohotel

A Hostal Casa Chueca

A Hotel Casa Pando

A Ecobox Andino

Middle Chile Highlights

1 Get lost in the steep maze of mural-lined alleyways that spiderweb across the hills of Valparaíso.

2 Swirl, sniff and sip the complex and full-bodied reds of the Colchagua Valley.

3 Catch a steep and quicksilver-fast wave at the famous surf breaks of Pichilemu.

4 Capture a 360-degree view from atop El Enladrillado in the Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay.

5 Head out for a sunset picnic on the isolated beaches near Buchupureo.

6 Party like it's 1999 at one of the light-up-the-night discos of Viña del Mar.

7 Ski through the trees on the longest ski slope in South America at Nevados de Chillán.

8 Tickle your senses with wine, spa treatments and fine dining in the Maule Valley.

9 Relive a castaway's Robinson Crusoe–style adventure in the Archipiélago Juan Fernández.

8Getting There & Away

Santiago sits in the middle of the region, providing easy international access, while to the south, Concepción also has a large airport. The excellent long-distance bus services that travel up and down the Panamericana highway are the quickest and cheapest way to arrive, whether you're coming from the Lakes District to the south, from Santiago or the north, or internationally via Mendoza in Argentina.

8Getting Around

Frequent local and long-distance buses connect all the major towns in Middle Chile to each other and to Santiago. Trains are also an option for travel between cities on the Panamericana between Santiago and Chillán – journeys take as long as on a bus, and are markedly more expensive, so train travel is probably only worth doing for the novelty value.

Getting to national parks and smaller towns can be trickier: snow closes some areas in winter, in others public transportation reduces to a trickle outside summer, and a few have no public transportation at all.

Having a car is invaluable for quick trips to far-flung parks and for touring wineries in the Colchagua, Maule and Casablanca Valleys.

Valparaíso & the Central Coast

This distinctive coastline is dominated by the twin maritime cities of Valparaíso and Viña del Mar. Tanned-and-tawny beach destinations stretch to the north and south and are hugely popular with vacationing Santaiguinos. Inland, you can explore Chile's best white wines in the Casablanca vineyards or head off track to Parque Nacional La Campana.

Valparaíso

%032 / Pop 263,500

Syncopated, dilapidated, colorful and poetic, Valparaíso is a wonderful mess. Pablo Neruda, who drew much inspiration from this hard-working port town, said it best: 'Valparaíso, how absurd you are…you haven't combed your hair, you've never had time to get dressed, life has always surprised you.'

But Neruda wasn't the only artist to fall for Valparaíso's unexpected charms. Poets, painters and would-be philosophers have long been drawn to Chile's most unusual city. Along with the ever-shifting port population of sailors, dockworkers and prostitutes, they've endowed gritty and gloriously spontaneous Valparaíso with an edgy air of 'anything goes.' Add to this the spectacular faded beauty of its chaotic cerros (hills), some of the best street art in Latin America, a maze of steep, sinuous streets, alleys and escaleras (stairways) piled high with crumbling mansions, and it's clear why some visitors are spending more time here than in Santiago. Concerted efforts have been made to bring top-tier restaurants and hotels to the city – and to keep at least the major tourist zones safe in a notoriously unsafe port city – making Valpo's midnight lights shine brighter than ever.

History

The sea has always defined Valparaíso and the region surrounding it. Fishing sustained the area's first inhabitants, the Chango, and no sooner had the Spanish conquistadores arrived than Valparaíso became a stop-off point for boats taking gold and other Latin American products to Spain. More seafaring looters soon followed: English and Dutch pirates, including Sir Francis Drake, who repeatedly sacked Valparaíso for gold.

The port city grew slowly at first, but boomed with the huge demand for Chilean wheat prompted by the California gold rush. The first major port of call for ships coming round Cape Horn, Valparaíso became a commercial center for the entire Pacific coast and the hub of Chile's nascent banking industry.

After Valparaíso's initial glory days, the port saw hard times in the 20th century. The 1906 earthquake destroyed most of the city's buildings, then the opening of the Panama Canal had an equally cataclysmic effect on the port's economy. Only the Chilean navy remained a constant presence.

Today Valparaíso is back on the nautical charts as a cruise-ship stop-off, and Chile's growing fruit exports have also boosted the port. More significantly, the city has been Chile's legislative capital since 1990 and was voted the cultural capital in 2003. Unesco sealed the deal by giving it World Heritage status, prompting tourism to soar.

Valparaíso

1Sights

1Ascensor ConcepciónC4

2Ascensor El PeralB4

3Ascensor Reina VictoriaC5

4Cementerio de DisidentesC6

5Cementerios 1 & 2D6

6Edificio de la Comandancia NavalB3

7Iglesia La MatrizA3

8Mercado PuertoB2

9Monumento a los Héroes de IquiqueC3

10Museo a Cielo AbiertoE7

11Museo de Bellas ArtesC4

12Museo de Historia NaturalE6

13Museo LukasC5

14Museo Naval y MarítimoB1

15Parque Cultural de ValparaísoC6

16Plaza MatrizB3

17Plaza SotomayorC3

18Reloj TurriC4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Gonzalo LaraC5

19Harbor Boat ToursC3

20Natalis Language CenterB4

21Tours 4 TipsB3

4Sleeping

22Casa AventuraC5

23Casa HiguerasB4

24Hostal Cerro AlegreC5

25Hostal JacarandaC5

26Hostal Luna SonrisaB5

27Hostal MorganC5

28Hotel UltramarB7

29La NonaB6

30Mm 450B5

31Pata Pata HostelC5

32Vía Vía Hotel Art DecoC5

33Yellow HouseB1

34ZerohotelB5

5Eating

35AbtaoC5

36Café del PoetaD5

37Café TurriC4

38Café ViniloC5

39Casino Social J CruzE6

40Delicatessen EmporioC4

41Delicias ExpressC4

42La CocóB5

43Norma'sC5

44Pasta e VinoC5

45Puerto EscondidoC4

6Drinking & Nightlife

46Bar La PlayaB3

47CinzanoD5

48FaunaD5

49Hotel BrightonD5

50La Piedra FelizD4

MáscaraD5

51PaganoB2

52PajaritoE6

Viá Viá CaféC5

7Shopping

53Art in Silver WorkshopB5

54Cummings 1D5

55Taller AntiquinaB5

1Sights & Activities

Your best activity is wandering through the city streets as you check out the murals and teetering architecture. Don't miss a trip or two on one of the 15 rattling ascensores (funiculars) built between 1883 and 1916 that crank you up into the hills and meandering back alleys. Beach lovers should head north to Viña and Zapallar. Just west of town, a good walk can be had at the beaches of San Mateo, Carvallo and Torpederas.

Cerros Concepción & Alegre

These steep cobbled streets are lined by traditional 19th-century houses with painted corrugated-iron facades that form a vivid patchwork of colors. Some of the city's best cafes and restaurants are here (though not clubs, as late-night music is banned).

Museo de Bellas ArtesMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Paseo Yugoslavo 166; admission CH$2000)

The rambling art-nouveau building at the western end of Cerro Alegre is called Palacio Baburizza; it houses the Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum), which has a decent permanent collection plus plenty of details on the original palace owners.

Ascensor El Peral ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza de Justicia (El Plan) & Paseo Yugoslavo (Cerro Alegre); admission CH$100; h10:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun) runs here from just off Plaza Sotomayor. A quick way up to the eastern side of Cerro Alegre is the Ascensor Reina Victoria ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission CH$250; h7am-11pm), which connects Av Elias to Paseo Dimalow.

Ascensor ConcepciónHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Prat (El Plan) & Paseo Gervasoni (Cerro Concepción); admission CH$300; h7am-10pm)

The city's oldest elevator, Ascensor Concepción takes you to Paseo Gervasoni, at the lower end of Cerro Concepción. Built in 1883, it originally ran on steam power.

Museo LukasMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-222-1344; www.lukas.cl; Paseo Gervasoni 448, Cerro Concepción; adult/child & senior CH$1000/500; h10:30am-2pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun)

Local cartoonist Lukas had a sharp eye for the idiosyncrasies of Valparaíso. You need to speak Spanish to understand his sardonic political strips in the Museo Lukas, but the ink drawings of iconic Valpo buildings speak for themselves.

Cerro Cárcel

Parque Cultural de ValparaísoARTS CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pcdv.cl; Castro s/n, Cerro Cárcel)F

This cultural center built from the bones of a prison has a little bit of everything the mind-traveler could ask for. There are excellent murals in the old exercise yards (with practically no chance of getting shanked), rotating arts exhibits, live theater and dance, and occasional classes, courses, round tables and other intellectually stimulating events.

Reach it by walking up Subida Cumming.

Cerro Panteón

Cementerios 1 & 2CEMETERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dinamarca s/n; h8am-dusk)

The city's most illustrious, influential and infamous residents rest in peace in Cementerio 1, where the tombs look like ornate mini palaces. Adjoining it is Cementerio 2, including the Cementerio de Disidentes ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) ('dissident cemetery') where English and European immigrants were buried.

Despite the name, these departed souls weren't rabble-rousers; they were simply Protestants, and therefore not accepted at the traditional cemeteries. The views from here are worthwhile in themselves. If you're up for the walk, you can also get here by hiking up Av Ecuador.

Cerro Bellavista

Artists and writers have long favored this quiet residential hill. And there's a few good restaurants and cafes worth checking out.

oLa SebastianaHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-225-6606; www.fundacionneruda.org; Ferrari 692; adult/child & senior CH$5000/1500; h10:30am-6:50pm Tue-Sun Jan & Feb, 10:10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Dec)

Bellavista's most famous resident artist was Pablo Neruda, who made a point of watching Valparaíso's annual New Year's fireworks from his house at the top of the hill, La Sebastiana. Because it's first-come, first-served, it's recommended that you get here in the morning.

Getting here involves a hefty uphill hike, and the climbing continues inside the house – but you're rewarded on each floor with ever more heart-stopping views over the harbor. Unlike Neruda's other houses, you can wander around La Sebastiana at will, lingering over the chaotic collection of ships' figureheads, glass, 1950s furniture and artworks by his famous friends.

Alongside the house, the Fundación Neruda has built the Centro Cultural La Sebastiana, containing a small exhibition space, cafe and souvenir shop. To get here, walk 800m uphill along Héctor Calvo from Ascensor Espíritu Santo. Alternatively, take green bus O on Serrano near Plaza Sotomayor in El Plan, or from the plaza at the top of Templeman on Cerro Alegre and get off at the 6900 block of Av Alemania.

Museo a Cielo AbiertoMUSEUM

(Open-Air Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rudolph & Ramos; h24h)F

Twenty classic, colorful murals are dotted through this cerro's lower streets, forming the Museo a Cielo Abierto, created between 1969 and 1973 by students from the Universidad Católica's Instituto de Arte. The Ascensor Espíritu Santo takes you from behind Plaza Victoria to the heart of this art.

HOP ON THE BUS

Sure, you can take the creaky antique elevators or huff it uphill on foot – but there's another unforgettable way to experience some of Valparaíso's magic. The route of local bus O (labeled micro O or sometimes micro 612) carries a mix of weary locals and camera-toting tourists through the narrow alleyways and across several of the city's steep hillsides; you can board in front of Congreso Nacional, atop Cerro Alegre or at various other points throughout town.

Cerro Artillería

Clear views out over the sea made this southwestern hill a strategic defense spot, hence the name. It lacks the great murals of other cerros, but has a nice grouping of crafts shops on top, making this more of a journey for your second or third day.

Museo Naval y MarítimoMUSEUM

(Naval & Maritime Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-243-7651; www.museonaval.cl; Paseo 21 de Mayo 45, Cerro Artillería; adult/child CH$1000/300; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Cannons still stand ready outside this naval museum. Much space is devoted to Chile's victory in the 19th-century War of the Pacific. Other exhibits include historical paintings, uniforms, ships' furniture, swords, navigating instruments and medals, all neatly displayed in exhibition rooms along one side of a large courtyard. Rattling Ascensor Artillería (closed for restoration) brings you here from Plaza Aduana.

Cerros Barón & Lecheros

Mirador Diego PortalesLOOKOUT

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av Diego Portales & Castelar, Cerro Barón)

You can see all of central Valpo's colorful hills from the Mirador Diego Portales in the east of town.

Iglesia San FranciscoCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Blanco Viel & Zañartu, Cerro Barón)

The bell tower of the ornate, red-brick Iglesia San Francisco served as a landmark for approaching mariners, who gave the city its common nickname 'Pancho' (a diminutive of Francisco).

TOP FIVE VALPO VIEWS

Paseo 21 de Mayo on Cerro Artillería to survey the cranes and containers of the port.
Plaza Bismark on Cerro Cárcel for a panoramic take of the bay.
Mirador Diego Portales on Cerro Barón for a sweeping perspective of Valpo's colorful house-cluttered central views.
The viewpoint at the end of Calle Merlet on Cerro Cordillera to see the rusting roofs of Barrio El Puerto and the civic buildings of Plaza Sotomayor from above.
Paseo Atkinson on Cerro Concepción for views of typical Valpo houses during the day, and a twinkling sea of lights on the hills at night.

El Plan & El Puerto

Valparaíso's flat commercial zone isn't as atmospheric as the hills that rise above it, but it contains a fair few monuments.

Plaza MatrizPLAZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The historic heart of the city is Plaza Matriz, which is watched over by Iglesia La Matriz ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Begun in 1837, it's the fifth church to occupy this site since the construction of the original chapel in 1559.

In nearby streets, luridly lit 'cabarets' (read: brothels) and liquor stores testify that port life in Valpo is still very much alive.

Reloj TurriMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Esmeralda & Gómez Carreño)

Where Prat and Cochrane converge to become Esmeralda, the Edificio Turri narrows to the width of its namesake clock tower, the Reloj Turri.

Plaza SotomayorPLAZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The Plaza Sotomayor is dominated by the impressive blue-colored palatial Edificio de la Comandancia Naval ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (Naval Command Building). In the middle of the square lies the Monumento a los Héroes de Iquique ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a subterranean mausoleum paying tribute to Chile's naval martyrs.

The Aduana Nacional (Customs House) and Estación Puerto, the terminal for Merval commuter trains, are also nearby. The plaza has a helpful tourist kiosk and a tacky handicrafts market, the Feria de Artesanía. Muelle Prat, the pier at the foot of Plaza Sotomayor, is a lively place on weekends, and is the prime point for spotting cranes and containers.

Museo de Historia NaturalMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mhnv.cl; Condell 1546, El Plan)F

Explore the natural history of central Chile in nine rooms that focus on biology and ecosystems. Signage is in Spanish only.

Congreso NacionalHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av Pedro Montt & Rawson)

One of Valpo's only modern landmarks is the controversial Congreso Nacional, located in the east section of El Plan. Its roots lie in Pinochet's presidency both literally and legislatively: it was built on one of his boyhood homes and mandated by his 1980 constitution (which moved the legislature away from Santiago).

Mercado CardonalMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-5pm)

As colorful as Valparaíso's trademark houses – and built almost as high – are the fruit and vegetable displays in the Mercado Cardonal, bordered by Yungay, Brasil, Uruguay and Rawson.

Barrio El PuertoAREA

In the west of El Plan, Barrio El Puerto (the port neighborhood) has the twin honors of being the oldest part of Valparaíso and the most run-down. Crumbling stone facades hint of times gone by – such as the Mercado Puerto ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Cochrane & San Martín, Puerto), a defunct food market now home to a pack of street cats.

VALPARAíSO'S MURALS

Wandering up and down the winding hills of Valparaíso, you'll see colorful public art everywhere, from dreamlike wall paintings of glamorous women to political graffiti-style murals splashed across garage doors. Top spots to view street art are Cerros Concepción, Alegre and Bellavista. Cerro Polanco was 'bombed' by grafitti artists from across Latin America at the First Latin American Graffitti-Mural Festival, with 80-plus murals going up in just a few days. The neighborhood is great for wandering by day, but avoid it at night.

As you cruise the streets, keep your eyes peeled for Chilean artist Inti. His large-scale mural, painted across the surface of several neighboring buildings and visible from Cerro Concepción, was unveiled in early 2012. The vibrant sideways image shows a mysterious, partially fragmented figure draped with exotic jewelry.

CCourses

Chilean CuisineCOOKING COURSE

(%cell 6621-4626; www.cookingclasseschile.cl; location varies; course per person from CH$37,000)

An energetic chef takes you to shop for ingredients at the local market, then teaches you to make pisco sours, taste local wines and cook – then eat – a menu of Chilean classics.

Gonzalo LaraCOOKING COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-223-0665; gonzalolarachef@yahoo.es)

The madcap chef of Café Vinilo runs a culinary course that's won rave reviews from travelers; email him directly for prices and availability.

Natalis Language CenterLANGUAGE COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-225-4849; www.natalislang.com; Plaza Justicia 45, 6th fl, Oficina 602, El Plan; courses per week from CH$90,000, 3-day crash courses CH$135,000)

Has a good reputation for quick results.

TTours

Santiago Adventures (%02-2244-2750; www.santiagoadventures.com; Guardia Vieja 255, Oficina 403, Providencia, Santiago) offers a complete full-day tour from the capital.

oTours 4 TipsWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tours4tips.com; Plaza Sotomayor, El Plan; h10am & 3pm)

Just show up at Plaza Sotomayor, look for the guides with the red-and-white shirts in the middle of the plaza, and head off for a friendly introduction to the city that focuses on street art, cultural history and politics. You only tip if you like the tour. We think CH$5000 to CH$10,000 is a good tip if you enjoy yourself.

Harbor Boat ToursBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Muelle Prat; 30min tour CH$3000; h9:30am-6:30pm)

Pass alongside giant cruise vessels or naval battleships, or spot sea lions frolicking in the harbor. Several companies operate boats – ask around for the best price and group up for savings.

SENDERO BICENTENARIO

If you only do one thing in Valparaíso, this is it. Get to the bottom – or rather, the top – of the city by exploring part of the Sendero Bicentenario, a 30km cultural and historical route designed by local not-for-profit organization Fundación Valparaíso. The trail is divided into 15 themed sections and takes in parts of the port, El Plan and many of the city's lesser-known hills. Check at hotels and tourist offices for a map.

zFestivals & Events

Puerto de IdeasCULTURAL

(www.puertodeideas.cl; hNov)

Held every November, this intellectual conference is Chile's equivalent to TED. If you speak Spanish, it can be fascinating.

Año NuevoNEW YEAR

(hDec 31)

Fantastic fireworks displays over the harbor draw hundreds of thousands of spectators to the city each December 31. Book accommodations well in advance.

4Sleeping

Yellow HouseB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-233-9435; www.theyellowhouse.cl; Capitán Muñoz Gamero 91, Cerro Artillería; r incl breakfast with/without bathroom CH$38,000/25,000; iW)

Oh-my-god views over the old port set this quiet B&B apart, as does the friendly care lavished on guests by the Chilean owner. The cozy, pastel-painted rooms come with thick white comforters. The Oceano by far has the best views. The only drawback: you're quite removed from the action, dining and nightlife of the more popular cerros.

Use caution arriving late at night.

La NonaB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %cell 6618-6186; www.bblanona.com; Galos 660, Cerro Alegre; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$25,000/36,000/46,000; W)

The English-speaking owners of this B&B are mad about Valpo, and love sharing insider tips with their guests. The rooms are simple but highly passable. Stained glass and skylights add an open air, and the central location on Cerro Alegre is also a serious selling point. Ask for a room with a view.

Hostal JacarandaHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-327-7567; www.hostaljacaranda.blogspot.com; Urriola 636, Cerro Alegre; dm/d from CH$7000/20,000; W)S

Small but very welcoming – and perfectly located in a lively section of Cerro Alegre – this cheerful, sustainably run hostel (note the recycling efforts) features a terrace that's romantically illuminated at night. The owners have a wealth of knowledge; if you ask nicely, they might even show you how to make Chilean specialties like pisco sours and empanadas.

Pata Pata HostelHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-317-3153; www.patapatahostel.com; Templeman 657, Cerro Alegre; dm CH$7500-10,000, d without bathroom CH$28,000; W)

The most youth-forward of Valparaíso's hostels, this spot up a picturesque flower-dotted stairway has a positive energy, plenty of hang-out places and pumped-in music. It's a bit unkempt (but so is the city) and the dorm mattresses are blandish.

Mm 450HOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-222-9919; www.mm450.cl; Lautaro Rosas 450, Cerro Alegre; dm CH$14,080-17,850, r with/without bathroom incl breakfast $71,400/53,500; W)

This 'boutique hostel' has a streamlined modern look, and super-comfy dorm rooms with new mattresses and gleaming white comforters. It's attached to a hip restaurant and lounge, so there's always somebody around, but despite a gorgeous interior patio, it doesn't seem like there's much of a traveler's scene… at least not yet. There's no shared kitchen.

Hostal Luna SonrisaHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-273-4117; www.lunasonrisa.cl; Templeman 833, Cerro Alegre; dm/s/d without bathroom CH$9000/14,000/25,000, d/apt CH$32,000/52,000; W)

Small, quiet and close to Cerro Alegre's restaurants and bars, this hostel is a decent value, though it doesn't seem as lively as other spots, and the smiles from staff are hard won.

Hostal Cerro AlegreB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-327-0374; www.hostalcerroalegre.cl; Urriola 562, Cerro Alegre; dm CH$12,000, r with/without bath CH$39,000/25,000; W)

Funky antiques, original oil paintings by the former owner and an eclectic mix of colors, styles and design sensibilities, make this a good bet for the BoHo crowd. There's a shared kitchen and smallish living area, and the dorm sleeps just three.

Casa AventuraHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-275-5963; www.casaventura.cl; Pasaje Gálvez 11, Cerro Concepción; dm/s/d without bathroom CH$9000/17,000/25,000; W)

One of Valpo's oldest hostels, this ramshackle old house has airy, pastel-painted dorms, while doubles feature sky-high ceilings and original wooden floors. There's a shared kitchen, but it's missing a cool terrace or large common areas.

El MiradorB&B

(%032-234-5937; www.elmiradordevalparaiso.cl; Levarte 251, Cerro Playa Ancha; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$15,500/36,200/51,700, apt for 2 people CH$62,000; i)

Budget-minded couples and solo travelers rave about this lovely B&B. Though slightly out of the way, the beautifully tended property – a restored house with comfortable doubles, apartments with kitchenettes, accommodating hosts and a spacious terrace – is tremendous value. To get here, from the Museo Naval y Maritimo, walk uphill along Playa Ancha and turn left on Levarte.

Vía Vía Hotel Art DecoBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-319-2134; www.viaviacafe.cl; Almirante Montt 217, Cerro Alegre; r CH$39000-58000; W)

Run by a friendly Ecuadorian-Belgian couple, this round-walled art-deco boutique is a favorite for the arts-poetry-and-chunky-glasses set. With just five rooms, it's a cozy affair. The rooms are sparse but quite airy, and the bathrooms have solar showers and elegant stone accents. There is an outrageously fun cafe on the main floor, making this a good spot for midnight-candle burners.

Puerto Natura B&BB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-222-4405; www.puertonatura.cl; Héctor Calvo 850, Cerro Bellavista; d with/without bathroom incl breakfast CH$67,000/44,000; Ws)

The fluffy beds and spotless, individually decorated rooms in this 1935 castle make it a good midrange bet. The owners are actually natural therapists: reiki, massages, yoga and Turkish baths are available on-site. A terraced garden filled with fruit trees is tucked away behind the house and Pablo Neruda's house, La Sebastiana, is a stone's throw away.

Hostal MorganB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-211-4931; www.hostalmorgan.cl; Capilla 784, Cerro Alegre; d with/without bathroom CH$54,000/48,000; iW)

Old-fashioned iron and wooden bedsteads, springy mattresses and crisp white sheets at this deliciously homey old house make this cheery yellow B&B a perennial travelers' favorite.

ZerohotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-211-3113; www.zerohotel.com; Lautaro Rosas 343, Cerro Alegre; d incl breakfast CH$166,000-238,000; aWs)

This boutique has one of the best patios around. And sprawling out poolside, taking in the Valparaíso sunshine, is a decadant treat that will last a lifetime. There are just nine rooms, all with high ceilings, minimalist design and plenty of creature comforts – like an honor bar that gives you access to some of Chile's best wines.

The contempo digs match surprisingly well with the lofty architecture that dates back to 1880.

Casa HiguerasBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-249-7900; www.casahigueras.cl; Higuera 133, Cerro Alegre; r CH$190,000-324,000; Ws)

Rich Santiaguinos always preferred weekending in Viña to Valpo but they've been won over by this hotel's slick rooms with dark-wood furniture and huge beds, mosaic-tiled bathrooms with big bowl sinks and the quiet living room filled with Asian sculptures and low beige sofas.

It has views out over the bay, plus a lovely swimming pool, Jacuzzi and terrace, ideal for cocktails at sunset.

Hotel UltramarBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-221-0000; www.hotelultramar.com; Pérez 173, Cerro Cárcel; d incl breakfast CH$83,000; W)

Unparalleled views over the bay justify the trek to sleek Ultramar, high on Cerro Cárcel. Behind the brown-brick front it's very mod, with soaring red-and-white walls, black banisters and checkered floor tiles.

Just make sure you understand which room you're booking ahead of time – there's a big difference between a spacious double with a view and a smaller room that doesn't face the ocean.

NAVIGATING VALPARAíSO

Valparaíso is a city of two parts: El Plan, the congested, flat commercial district closest to the sea; and the 42 cerros (hills) that rise up steeply behind it.

Valparaíso's hills defy even determined cartographers. Av Almirante Montt and Urriola lead from El Plan to Cerros Concepción and Alegre. From Plaza Aníbal Pinto, Cummings takes you to Cerro Cárcel; from nearby Av Ecuador, Yerbas Buenas winds up Cerro Bellavista, accessible from the other side by Ferrari. Av Alemania winds along the top of the more central cerros.

Valparaíso Map (www.valparaisomap.cl) is by far the best map of this notoriously hard-to-navigate city, while Ascensores de Valparaíso (www.ascensoresvalparaiso.org) has an interactive map of the city's old lifts. Also check out the cool online maps of the city's barrios at Ciudad de Valparaíso (www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl). Look for print maps at hotels and tourist information kiosks.

5Eating

Cerro Concepción

Puerto EscondidoCHILEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.puertoescondido.cl; Papudo 424; mains CH$3500-6200)

Situated in one of Valparaíso's quaint antique houses, this family-run eatery offers a short menu of well-made Chilean classics like pastel de papas (a potato casserole similar to shepherd's pie) and other homey dishes you won't find in contemporary restaurants. Come for the down-to-earth ambience as well as the food.

Café TurriSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafeturri.cl; Templeman 146; mains CH$4500-8200)

Though service can be hit or miss and prices steep for what you get, Café Turri boasts unforgettable views over the harbor and ocean. Especially if you're not in a hurry, you can't go wrong by grabbing a seat on the terrace and ordering a pisco sour with steamed mussels or palta cardenal (avocado stuffed with shrimp).

AbtaoSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-222-3442; www.restauranteabtao.cl; Abtao 550, Cerro Concepción; mains CH$8500-10,900)

If it's warm out, sit in the glassed-in patio; if not, head toward the art-deco-inspired dining room for warmth, intimacy and elegance. The food is playful and inventive, matching fruit with fish, sweet with tart and spiced flavors from across the globe.

Cerro Alegre

oCafé ViniloCHILEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Almirante Montt 448, Cerro Alegre; mains CH$5800-8500)

Vying for Valparaíso's top spot, this eclectic resto-bar is studied, quirky, esoteric and sublime. The dinner plates feature fresh salmon, albacore and other local catches with inventive presentations and delicious flavor combinations.

The retro-chic atmosphere matches (and perfectly mis-matches) the colors and rhythms of the city. As the last plates are licked, the vinyl gets turned up and things slip into bar mode.

Delicias ExpressCHILEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Urriola 358, Cerro Alegre; empanadas CH$1000-1300; h8am-6pm)

Boasting 60 varieties of empanadas, friendly service and a crispy crust you'll love, this is one of the best empanada joints on the coast.

Delicatessen EmporioCHILEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Urriola 383, Cerro Alegre; set lunch CH$3900-5900; h11am-3pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat; W)

This small dining room has a high-quality fixed-menu lunch with your choice of soup or salad, main plates like fresh-caught salmon or homemade gnocchi in Tuscan sauce, followed by a sumptious dessert. There's a semi-open kitchen – so you know it's clean!

La CocóSANDWICHES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lacoco-sangucheriaartesanal.blogspot.com; Monte Alegre 546, Cerro Alegre; sandwiches CH$3800-5000; hclosed Mon & Tue, lunch only Sun; v)

Popular with hip porteños and savvy travelers, this sanguchería artesanal (artisan sandwich-maker) is a true delight. Gourmet sandwiches come piled high with fresh seafood (smoked salmon with spicy chorizo is a current hit) or vegetarian-friendly toppings. A line-up of live-music performances and poetry readings enliven the space in the evening.

Norma'sCHILEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Almirante Montt 391, Cerro Alegre; set lunch $4900-6900; hclosed Mon)

Don't let the name (or the nondescript entryway) throw you off: just climb the tall stairway into this cheerful, casually elegant restaurant for a surprisingly well-prepared set lunch that's friendlier on your wallet than most others in the area. The restored house still has the grand dimensions, polished wood and charming antique window frames of the original structure.

Pasta e VinoITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-249-6187; www.pastaevinoristorante.cl; Templeman 352; mains CH$6900-9900)

If you want to compete with local foodies, you'll probably have to reserve ahead (you can simply fill out the online form on the website); you'll be dining on inventive pastas of the day in a sleek, intimate atmosphere with only a dozen tables.

El Plan & El Puerto

Casino Social J CruzCHILEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Condell 1466, El Plan; mains CH$4500-6000)

Liquid-paper graffiti covers the tabletops and windows at this tiny cafe, tucked away down a narrow passageway in El Plan. Forget about menus, there's one essential dish to try: it's said that chorrillana (a mountain of french fries under a blanket of fried pork, onions and egg) was invented here. Folk singers serenade you into the wee hours.

Café del PoetaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1181, El Plan; mains CH$3500-7800; h8:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; W)

This sweet cafe and eatery brings some sophistication to a busy central plaza in El Plan. On the menu are savory crepes, pasta and seafood; there's also sidewalk seating, a relaxing afternoon tea, wines by the glass and a collection of books about Valparaíso that guests are invited to linger over.

Mercado CardonalMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Mercado Cardonal, 2nd fl, El Plan; mains CH$3500-5000; h9am-10pm)

There's a good selection of seafood stands at Valparaíso's main food market. El Rincón de Pancho and Desayunador Paloma are top local recommendations.

Caleta El MembrilloSEAFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; Av Altamirano 1569, El Puerto; mains CH$2800-5200; hnoon-6pm Mon-Thu, open later Fri & Sat)

This casual, family-friendly seafood marketplace on the waterfront is a laid-back lunch spot where you can sit outside and watch the commercial fishermen coming and going while feasting on fresh, simply prepared shrimp, fried fish and Chilean specialties.

6Drinking & Entertainment

oViá Viá CaféCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-319-2134; www.viaviacafe.cl; Almirante Montt 217, Cerro Alegre; hnoon-2am; W)S

Set below a precipitous stairway and looming three-story mural, this garden cafe brims with creativity and serendipitous energy. There's occasional live music, simple dining options, and a good mix of Belgian beers and Chilean wines on tap. It's a must-stop on any mural or pub crawl.

FaunaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.faunahotel.cl; Pasaje Dimalow 166, Cerro Alegre; h1-11pm)

One of the best decks in town is found at this hip lounge and resto-bar (with a sophisticated attached hotel). It is a top spot for locals to suck down craft beers, cocktails and wine.

Hotel BrightonBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brighton.cl; Paseo Atkinson 151, Cerro Concepción; h10am-12am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

Teetering over the edge of Cerro Concepción, this funked-out house has a terrific terrace restaurant that overlooks the port and city. Come around sunset for cocktails and stay for decent food and live music on weekends.

PajaritoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pajaritobar.blogspot.com; Donoso 1433, El Plan; hclosed Sun)

Artsy porteños in their 20s and 30s cram the formica tables at this laid-back, old-school bar to talk poetry and politics over beer and piscola.

CinzanoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.barcinzano.cl; Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1182, El Plan; hclosed Sun)

Drinkers, sailors and crooners have been propping themselves up on the cluttered bar here since 1896. It's now a favorite with tourists, too, who come to see tuneful old-timers knocking out tangos and boleros like there's no tomorrow.

La Piedra FelizBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lapiedrafeliz.cl; Av Errázuriz 1054, El Plan; admission from CH$3000; hfrom 9pm Tue-Sun)

Jazz, blues, tango, son, salsa, rock, drinking, dining, cinema: is there anything this massive house along the waterfront doesn't do? In the basement, DJs spin till 4am at the nightclub La Sala.

Bar La PlayaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Serrano 567, El Puerto)

Valparaíso's longest-running bar shows no signs of slowing down. On weekend nights, cheap pitchers of beer, powerful pisco and a friendly but rowdy atmosphere draw crowds of local students and young bohemian types to the wood-paneled bar upstairs and the cellar-level disco.

MáscaraCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mascara.cl; Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1178, El Plan; cover CH$2500-3500)

Music-savvy clubbers in their 20s and 30s love this gay-friendly club: the beer's cheap, there's plenty of room to move and hardly any teenyboppers. Happy hours run from 6pm to 10pm Tuesday to Friday.

PaganoCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-223-1118; www.paganoindustry.cl; Blanco 236; cover varies)

Die-hard clubbers both gay and straight can dance all week on Pagano's packed, sweaty floor.

7Shopping

Most of the galleries and crafts shops are concentrated on Cerros Concepción and Alegre.

Taller AntiquinaACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; San Enrique 510, Cerro Alegre; h11am-8pm)

Beautifully worked leather bags, belts and wallets are lovingly made on-site here.

Art in Silver WorkshopJEWELRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lautaro Rosas 449A, Cerro Alegre)

Silver and lapis lazuli come together in unusual designs at this small jewelry store, where you can sometimes see their creator, silversmith Victor Hugo, at work.

Cummings 1BOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cummings1.cl; Subida Cummings 1, Plaza Aníbal Pinto, El Plan; hnoon-9pm Mon, 11:30am-2pm & 4:30-9pm Tue-Sat)

Latin American literature in Spanish, English, French and German.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Petty street crime and muggings are often reported in the old port area of Valparaíso, so keep a close watch on your belongings, especially cameras and other electronics. The rest of Valparaíso is fairly safe, but stick to main streets at night and avoid sketchy stairways and alleyways.

Internet Access & Telephone

Many lodgings and restaurants have free internet or wi-fi.

Laundry

Lavanda CaféLAUNDRY

( GOOGLE MAP ; Av Almirante Montt 454, Cerro Alegre; per load CH$7500; h9:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

This is the place to do laundry; you can also get coffee and food here.

Media

ACiudad de Valparaíso (www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl) Helpful, comprehensive listings of services in the city.

AEl Mercurio de Valparaíso (www.mercuriovalpo.cl) The city's main newspaper.

AValparaíso Times (www.valparaisotimes.cl) Online English-language newspaper run by the same people as the Santiago Times.

Medical Services

Hospital Carlos Van BurenHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-220-4000; Av Colón 2454, El Plan)

Public hospital.

Money

Banco SantanderBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-220-7940; Prat 882, El Plan)

One of many banks with ATMs along Prat.

Inter CambioBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Sotomayor 11, El Plan; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)

An exchange house.

Post

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Prat 856, El Plan; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)

Tourist Information

Tourist Information KiosksTOURIST INFORMATION

(%032-293-9262; www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat)

At these small information stands on Muelle Prat ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl; opposite Plaza Sotomayor, El Plan) and Plaza Aníbal Pinto ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl; cnr O'Higgins & Plaza Aníbal Pinto, El Plan) you can pick up maps and battle with other tourists for a chance to talk to the experts.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

All major intercity services arrive and depart from the Terminal Rodoviario ( GOOGLE MAP ; Av Pedro Montt 2800, El Plan), about 20 blocks east of the town center. Be aware, especially if you're arriving at night, that taxis often aren't waiting around the terminal; if you need a ride to your hotel or hostel, you might have to call one or arrange a pick-up ahead of time.

Services to Santiago leave every 15 to 20 minutes with Tur Bus (%600-660-6600; www.turbus.cl) and Condor Bus (%02-2822-7528; www.condorbus.cl), which both also go south to Puerto Montt (three each daily), Osorno (three each daily) and Temuco (three each daily). In addition, Tur Bus goes to Pucón (three daily), Concepción (three daily) and Chillán (three daily).

Tur Bus also operates to the northern cities of Iquique (twice daily), Calama (three daily) and Antofagasta (three daily). Romani (%032-222-0662; www.busesromani.cl) has less-frequent services on the same routes.

You can reach Mendoza in Argentina with Tur Bus, Cata Internacional (%800-122-2282; www.catainternacional.com), El Rápido (%810-333-6285; www.elrapidoint.com.ar), Ahumada (%02-696-9798; www.busesahumada.cl) and Andesmar (www.andesmar.com). Some buses continue to Buenos Aires. Buses JM (%034-344-4373; www.busesjm.cl) offers hourly services to Los Andes.

Pullman Bus Lago Peñuela (%032-222-4025) leaves to Isla Negra every 15 minutes. From 12 de Febrero, just outside the terminal, Transportes Quintay (%032-236-2669) runs taxi colectivos (shared taxis) every 15 minutes to Quintay.

The city transport network, Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso (TMV; www.tmv.cl), has services to the beach towns north of Valparaíso and Viña del Mar. For Reñaca, take the orange 607, 601 or 605. The 601 and 605 continue to Concón. All run along Condell then Yungay.

Note that fares may increase considerably during school holidays or long weekends, and you'll pay more for the cama class (with fully reclining seats) on long-haul rides.

Car

The closest car-rental agencies to Valparaíso are in Viña del Mar – if you book in advance, some will bring cars to your hotel.

Take the panoramic coastal road to ValparaísoIZABELA HABUR/GETTY IMAGES ©

8Getting Around

Walking is the best way to get about central Valparaíso and explore its cerros – you can cheat on the way up by taking an ascensor or a taxi colectivo (CH$500). Colectivos to Cerros Concepción and Alegre line up at the bottom of Almirante Montt, while those to Cerros La Cárcel and Bellavista leave from Av Ecuador.

Countless local buses run by TMV (one way within El Plan CH$310, El Plan to Cerro CH$370) run along Condell and Av Pedro Montt, Av Brasil and Yungay, connecting one end of El Plan with the other. A few climb different cerros and continue to Viña or along the northern coast; destinations are displayed in the windshield. The city's most famous line is the 801, which uses the oldest working trolleybuses in the world. The curvy cars date to 1947 and have been declared a national monument.

The Metro Regional de Valparaíso (Merval; GOOGLE MAP ; %032-252-7633; www.merval.cl) operates commuter trains every six to 12 minutes from Valparaíso's Estación Puerto ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Errázuriz & Urriola) and Estación Bellavista ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Errázuriz & Bellavista) to Viña del Mar (CH$410 to CH$456, depending on hour of departure).

Taxis are much more expensive in Valparaíso than other Chilean cities.

If you're willing to brave the hills on a bike, you'll see several outfitters around town renting bicycles (CH$5000 per half-day). For an extra CH$1000, they'll deliver to your hostel.

Viña del Mar

%032 / Pop 286,931

Clean and orderly Viña del Mar is a sharp contrast to the charming jumble of neighboring Valparaíso. Manicured boulevards lined with palm trees, a sprawling public beach and beautiful expansive parks have earned it the nickname of Ciudad Jardín (Garden City). Its official name, which means 'vineyard by the sea,' stems from the area's colonial origins as the hacienda of the Carrera family. Not many foreign travelers stay here, opting instead for a day trip from Valparaíso. Nevertheless, Viña remains a popular weekend and summer destination for well-to-do Santiaguinos – and the carrete (partying) here is first rate.

Viña del Mar

1Sights

1ArtequinE4

2Castillo WulffB1

3Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco FonckE1

4Parque Quinta VergaraE4

5Parroquia Nuestra Señora de DoloresE3

4Sleeping

6Delirio HostelB3

7Eco-Hostal Offenbacher-hofB3

8Hotel del MarC1

9Hotel MonterillaC2

10Kalagen HostelE3

11Vista Hermosa 26B3

5Eating

12Divino PecadoC1

13Mercado del MarC1

14PanzoniE3

15Portal ÁlamosD3

16SamoiedoE3

6Drinking & Nightlife

17Café JournalB3

3Entertainment

18Anfiteatro Quinta VergaraE4

19Casino MunicipalC1

1Sights & Activities

Most streets are identified by a number and direction, either Norte (north), Oriente (east) or Poniente (west). Av Libertad separates Ponientes from Orientes. The city was pretty hard hit by the 2010 earthquake, and the Plaza Sucre was being renovated when we passed through.

Viña's white-sand beaches stretch northward from the northern bank of the Estero Marga Marga to the suburbs of Reñaca and Concón.

Parque Quinta VergaraPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Errázuriz 563; h7am-6pm)

Nowhere is Viña's nickname of the Garden City better justified than at the magnificently landscaped Parque Quinta Vergara, which you enter from Errázuriz at the south end of Libertad. It once belonged to one of the city's most illustrious families, the Alvares-Vergaras.

Their residence was the Venetian neo-Gothic-style Palacio Vergara, which later housed an interesting collection of 17th- to 19th-century European and Chilean art at the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes. Unfortunately, the museum was badly damaged in the 2010 earthquake and was closed indefinitely at the time of writing.

Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco FonckMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-268-6753; www.museofonck.cl; 4 Norte 784; adult/child CH$2500/500; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon, 10am-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)

The original moai (Easter Island statues) standing guard outside the Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco Fonck are just a teaser for the beautifully displayed archaeological finds from Easter Island within, along with Mapuche silverwork and anthropomorphic Moche ceramics. Upstairs are old-school insect cases and a lively explanation of how head shrinking works (finished examples are included).

ArtequinMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-294-3637; www.artequinvina.cl; Parque Portrenillos 500; adult/child CH$1000/500; h9am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun; c)

This children's museum has plenty of play areas and a big workshop. There are a few reproductions of masterpieces from the 15th to 20th centuries.

Parroquia Nuestra Señora de DoloresCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Alvares s/n)

Check out the cool iconography at Viña's oldest church, built and rebuilt between 1882 and 1912.

Castillo WulffHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av Marina s/n; h10am-1:30pm & 3-5:30pm Tue-Sun)F

Pretty Castillo Wulff, built by a prominent Valparaíso businessman in the early 20th century, hangs out over the sea: pass through the art exhibitions to the tower at the back, where you can peer through the thick glass floor at the rocks and waves below.

Jardín Botánico NacionalPARK

(National Botanical Garden; %032-267-2566; www.jardin-botanico.cl; Camino El Olivar s/n; adult/child CH$2000/1000; h10am-6pm May-Aug, 10am-7pm Sep-Apr)

There are over 3000 plant species in the 61 hectares of parkland that comprise Chile's Jardín Botánico Nacional. It's 8km southeast of the city center; take a taxi or catch bus 203 from Viña along Calle Alvarez to Puente El Olivar, then cross the bridge and walk about 500m north to the park's entrance signs.

zFestivals & Events

Festival Internacional de la CanciónSONG

(International Song Festival; www.festivaldevina.cl)

At Chile's biggest music festival, usually held in February or March, Latin American pop, rock and folk stars have been drawing huge crowds since 1960.

4Sleeping

Expect price jumps in the summer and on weekends.

Vista Hermosa 26HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-266-0309; www.vistahermosa26.cl; Vista Hermosa 26; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$24,000/38,000/42,000; W)

Polished wooden floors and a big fireplace lend stately charm to the lounge of this quiet but friendly hotel on the edge of Cerro Castillo (a must-see cerro with some of the city's prettiest architecture). You get plenty of space in the simple rooms, making this a solid bet for midrange comfort.

Delirio HostelHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-262-5759; www.deliriohostel.com; Portales 131; dm CH$6000-10,000; iW)

The huge long garden in front of Viña's best hostel means you don't have to limit your open-air lounging to the beach. The right-on vibe stops at the door. While there's a shared kitchen, you'll miss a big indoor hang-out area. Good news is that the young owners help organize activities from tours to pub crawls.

Kalagen HostelHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-299-1669; www.kalagenhostel.com; Av Valparaíso 618; dm CH$7500-11,200, d with/without bathroom incl breakfast CH$37,000/24,900; W)

This fun urban hostel contains stylish dorms and doubles with colorful linens, hard-wood floors and Asian-style paper lanterns. It's a bit dirty, but the central location is great and there's a communal kitchen, a girls-only dorm and a chill room with TV set. The private rooms are actually pretty passable.

Eco-Hostal Offenbacher-hofB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-262-1483; www.offenbacher-hof.cl; Balmaceda 102; s/d incl breakfast CH$35,000/44,000; W)S

There are fabulous views over the sea and the city from this commanding chestnut-and-yellow mansion atop quiet Cerro Castillo. Sea views, newly renovated bathrooms and antique furnishings make this your best buy in the city. It's spotless, the owner is charming, and there's an amazing patio for afternoon tea.

Casa OlgaB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-318-2972; www.casa-olga.com; 18 de Sepiembre 31; d/apt incl breakfast CH$55,000/65,000; W)

This gorgeous boutique-style B&B, outfitted with breezy all-white decor, brand-new LCD TVs and cozy doubles with renovated private bathrooms, is practically right on the beach. It's just outside of Viña – an advantage or disadvantage depending on your travel plans.

Hotel del MarLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-250-0800; www.enjoy.cl; cnr Av Perú & Los Héroes; r incl breakfast CH$158,000-214,200; aWs)

The view from the sleek, glass-fronted lobby of Viña's top luxury hotel is a preview of what awaits upstairs – on many floors you can see the sea from your bed and even the indoor pool seems to merge with the waves beyond the window. The glamorous service and style evokes the roaring '20s.

Hotel MonterillaHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-297-6950; www.monterilla.cl; 2 Norte 65; s/d CH$86,600/108,350; W)

The dead-plain facade is deceiving: bright artworks and engravings offset the white walls and boxy sofas in this hotel's lobby and restaurant. The tiled floors and sparse furnishings look refreshing in hot weather, but might leave you longing for some color in winter – it's best for those looking for American-style amenities over Chilean charm.

5Eating

Most of Viña's cheap eats are clustered on and around busy Av Valparaíso in the town center. These include the string of schopperias (beer-and-sandwich joints) that fill the open-fronted 2nd floor of Portal Álamos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av Valparaíso 553).

PanzoniITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Paseo Cousiño 12-B; mains CH$3000-4800)

One of the best-value eateries in central Viña, Panzoni's well-prepared Italian pastas and friendly service reel in the lunchtime diners. The location is slightly hidden on an out-of-the-way passageway.

SamoiedoSANDWICHES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-268-1382; Valparaíso 637; sandwiches CH$2500-4500, set lunch CH$5000-7000)

For half a century the old boys have been meeting at this traditional confitería (tearoom) for lunchtime feasts of steak and fries or well-stuffed sandwiches. The outdoor seating is greatly preferable to the interior, which is open to a busy shopping mall.

Divino PecadoITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.divinopecado.cl; Av San Martín 180; mains CH$6500-9900)

The short but surprising menu at this intimate, candlelit Italian restaurant includes scallops au gratin, tuna carpaccio and fantastic fettuccini with lamb ragu – a divine sin indeed.

Mercado del MarCHILEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av Perú s/n; CH$5500-9500; W)

A sunset drink here should be on everyone's Viña to-do list – there are panoramic views of the Pacific from its glassed-in terrace above the mouth of the Marga Marga.

6Drinking & Entertainment

From the beach, head up 5 Norte for the best clubs and lounges in town.

La Flor de ChileBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.laflordechile.cl; 8 Norte 601; mains CH$3000-6500)

For nearly a century, Viñamarinos young and old have downed their schops (draft beer) over the closely packed tables of this gloriously old-school bar.

Café JournalCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Agua Santa & Alvares; cover free-CH$3000; h10pm-late Wed-Sat)

Electronic music is the order of the evening at this boomingly popular club, which has three heaving dance floors.

ScratchCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.scratch.cl; Quillota 898; cover CH$2000-5000)

This superclub is immensely popular with the university set and 20-something locals who dance to reggaeton and DJ-spun tunes until 5am.

Casino MunicipalCASINO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-250-0700; www.enjoy.cl/enjoy-vina-del-mar; Av San Martín 199)

Overlooking the beach on the north side of the Marga Marga, this elegant local landmark is the place to squander your savings on slot machines, bingo, roulette and card games. Formal attire is encouraged.

Anfiteatro Quinta VergaraPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Parque Quinta Vergara)

This giant amphitheater in the Parque Quinta Vergara has concerts and more.

8Information

Banco SantanderBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-226-6917; Plaza Vergara 108)

One of several banks with ATMs on the main square.

ConafTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-232-0210; www.conaf.cl; 3 Norte 541; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri)

Provides information on nearby parks, including Parque Nacional La Campana.

Hospital Gustavo FrickeHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-265-2200; Alvares 1532)

Viña's main public hospital, located east of downtown.

LavarápidoLAUNDRY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-290-6263; Av Arlegui 440; per load CH$4200; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat)

Offers an express service.

Municipal Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitevinadelmar.cl)

Check online for a city map and cultural happenings.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Vergara s/n; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)

8Getting There & Away

All long-distance services operate from the Rodoviario Viña del Mar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-275-2000; www.rodoviario.cl; Valparaíso 1055). There's tourist information here and luggage storage downstairs (CH$1000).

Several local bus lines through the Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso (TMV; www.tmv.cl; one way CH$440), plus privately run line Sol del Pacífico ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-275-2030; www.soldelpacifico.cl), make frequent departures for northern coastal towns from Reñaca to Concón. To catch one, go to Plaza Vergara and the area around Viña del Mar's metro station; expect to pay between CH$1200 and CH$2200 one way, depending on your final destination. For Reñaca, take the orange 607, 601 or 605. The 601 and 605 continue to Concón.

8Getting Around

Frequent local buses run by Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso connect Viña and Valparaíso. Some routes run along the waterfront following Av Marina and Av San Martín; others run through the town center along Av España and Av Libertad. Destinations are usually displayed in the windshield. The commuter train Metro Regional de Valparaíso (Merval; %032-252-7633; www.merval.cl) also runs between Viña and Valpo.

In summer Viña is congested and very tricky to park in. However, a car can be very useful for touring the northern coast or the Casablanca Valley wineries. Budget (%032-268-3420; www.budget.cl; Marina 15) is your best bet for a rental.

IF YOU LIKE…. BEACH TOWNS

North of Viña del Mar, a beautiful road snakes along the coast, passing through a string of beach towns that hum with holidaying Chileans December through February. The beaches range from small, rocky coves to wide open sands. Towering condos overlook some, while others are scattered with rustic cottages and the huge summer houses of Chile's rich and famous.

REñACA & CONCóN

Viña's high-rises merge into the multitiered apartments of Reñaca, a northern suburb with a wide, pleasant beach. Come to local landmark Roca Oceánica, a rocky hill looking out over the Pacific, for a sunset hike with incredible views (it's on your left, on the ocean side, as you head north from the town.) Concón, just north of Reñaca, is known for its casual and wonderfully authentic seafood restaurants. Top on the list are the crab-stuffed empanadas at Las Deliciosas (Av Borgoño 25370; empanadas CH$900) and evening cocktails and machas (razor clams) at local legend La Gatita (Av Borgoño 21550; mains CH$6000-8500).

HORCóN

Chile's hippie movement began at the small fishing town of Horcón, on a small curving peninsula that juts out into the Pacific 28km north of Concón. Brightly painted, ramshackle buildings clutter the steep main road down to its small, rocky beach where fishing boats come and go. These days there's still a hint of peace, love and communal living – note the happy-go-lucky folks gathering on the beach with dogs, guitars and bottles of liquor in paper bags at sunset.

MAITENCILLO

About 21km north of Horcón, Maitencillo's long, sandy beaches stretch for several kilometers along the coast and attract many visitors. Escuela de Surf Maitencillo (%cell 9238-4682; www.escueladesurfmaitencillo.cl; Av del Mar 1250; group class CH$16,000 per person) is a relaxed place to learn how to surf. Although the town's packed with holiday homes, it retains a pleasant low-key vibe. A favorite restaurant, bar and cabin complex is La Canasta (www.hermansen.cl; Av del Mar 592; mains CH$5900-8800, cabin CH$77,000) for wood-baked pizzas and – of course – fresh fish.

CACHAGUA

This small, chillaxed town 13km north of Maitencillo sits on the northern tip of a long crescent beach. Just across the water is the Monumento Nacional Isla de Cachagua (www.conaf.cl/parques/monumento-natural-isla-cachagua/), a guano-stained rocky outcrop that's home to more than 2000 Humboldt penguins, as well as a colony of sea lions. You can ask local fishermen to take you closer to the island, but you're not allowed to get off the boat.

ZAPALLAR

Santiago's elite wouldn't dream of taking their beach holidays anywhere but here, the most exclusive of Chile's coastal resorts, 2km north of Cachagua. Instead of high-rises, multimillion-dollar mansions cover the wooded hillsides leading up from the beach, which is an unspoiled arc of yellow sand in a sheltered cove. Everyone who's anyone in Zapallar makes a point of lunch at El Chiringuito (Caleta de Pescadores; mains CH$8200-12,400), where terrace tables look out over the rocks and pelicans fishing for their dinner.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

To arrive at the northernmost beaches from Viña del Mar or Valparaíso, a rental car is your best bet. You can also catch a ride on a local bus or come directly to Concón from Santiago on Pullman del Sur (%02-776-2424; www.pdelsur.cl).

Casablanca Valley

A cool climate and temperatures that vary greatly from day to night have made this valley halfway between Santiago and Valparaíso one of Chile's best regions for fruity Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs and Pinots. Its well-organized wineries take food and wine tourism seriously, and many have on-site restaurants. There's no public transportation to any of the wineries, but in a rental car you can easily blitz four or five of them in a day – most are on or around Ruta 68. Alternatively, contact the Ruta del Vino de Casablanca (%032-274-3755; www.casablancavalley.cl; Punta Arenas 46, Casablanca) or Enotour for curated wine tours. Drivers should note that Chile has a zero tolerance (zero alcohol) driving under the influence policy. Make sure you have a designated driver. Some of the larger wineries offer drop-in visits, but it's recommended to reserve in advance.

2Activities

oEmilianaWINERY

(%02-353-9130; www.emiliana.cl; Ruta 68, Km61.5; tastings from CH$9000; h10am-5pm)S

Tastings take place in a gorgeous slate-and-wood building looking out over the vines that are grown organically using biodynamic principles. Reserve ahead for chocolate-pairings, bike tours, premium tastings or picnics.

Viña IndómitaWINERY

(%032-215-3900; www.indomita.cl; Ruta 68, Km6; tour incl 3 pours CH$9000; h11am-5pm)

There's no beating the views from these vineyards – the Hollywood-style sign on the hillside is easily spotted from afar. Indómita's top-shelf Carmenere scored an honorable mention at the recent edition of the International Wine Competition.

Viña MateticWINERY

(%02-595-2661; www.matetic.com; Fundo Rosario, Lagunillas; tasting with 2 pours & tour CH$10,000; h11am-3:30pm Tue-Sun)

A real show-stopper of a winery: the glass, wood and steel gravity-flow winery has attracted almost as much attention as the wines. Reservations several days in advance are usually necessary; you can stay the night at La Casona, the boutique hotel on-site.

House of MorandéWINERY

(%032-275-4701; www.morande.cl)

Featuring a fantastic gourmet restaurant.

Viña Casas del BosqueWINERY

(%02-480-6940; www.casasdelbosque.cl; Hijuelas 2 Ex Fundo Santa Rosa; tastings from CH$9000)

With a stunning mirador over the Casablanca Valley, this winery also offers bike trips.

William Cole VineyardsWINERY

(%032-215-7777; www.williamcolevineyards.cl)

With architecture that is inspired by old-fashioned Chilean missions, this contemporary winery is visitor-friendly.

CatralaWINERY

(%02-243-2861; www.catrala.cl)

Wine tastings include a hike through the vineyard at Catrala, which is named after an enigmatic Chilean woman from the 17th century.

Viña MarWINERY

(%032-275-4301; www.vinamar.cl; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun)

The striking manor at the heart of this carefully landscaped property houses the gourmet Ristorante San Marco.

Viña VeramonteWINERY

(%032-232-9999; www.veramonte.cl; tastings from CH$11,000)

Veramonte's Cabernets and Chardonnays win frequent 'top value' awards from Wine Spectator.

8Getting There & Around

You'll need a car to visit these wineries. Drive over from Valparaíso, or rent a car from Santiago.

Quintay

As the sun sets over the Pacific, the craggy rocks protecting the tiny fishing cove of Caleta Quintay are stained a rich pink. Several of the colorful houses clustered here are seafood restaurants. One of the best places for sundowners and garlic prawns or centolla (king crab) is the terrace of Restaurant Miramar (Costanera s/n; mains CH$5900-8500). You can see your future dinner up close on the guided scuba dives run by Austral Divers (%02-492-7975; www.australdivers.cl), a PADI-certified dive company with an outpost here.

A signposted turn-off about 1.2km back down the road toward Valparaíso takes you down a 1.5km dirt road to the long, sweeping Playa de Quintay, one of the prettiest, most natural beaches in the region.

8Getting There & Away

Quintay is an easy half-day trip from Valparaíso. Transportes Quintay (%032-236-2669) operates taxi colectivos between just outside Valparaíso's bus terminal and Quintay's main street (from CH$1800, one hour), 500m from Caleta Quintay and 2.5km from Playa de Quintay. If you're coming by car, take Ruta 68 from Valparaíso or Viña toward Santiago; the turnoff is 18km south of Valpo, then it's another 23km to Quintay.

Isla Negra

The spectacular setting on a windswept ocean headland makes it easy to understand why Casa de Isla Negra (Pablo Neruda's House; %035-461-284; www.fundacionneruda.org; Poeta Neruda s/n; admission by guided tour only CH$5000; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Sat & Sun Jan-Feb) was Pablo Neruda's favorite house. Built by the poet when he became rich in the 1950s, it was stormed by soldiers just days after the 1973 military coup when Neruda was dying of cancer. Overenthusiastic commercialization gives a definite Disney-Neruda vibe to visits here: indifferent guides quick-march you through the house, and they'd rather you lingered in the gift shop than over the extraordinary collections of shells, ships in bottles, nautical instruments, colored glass and books. Despite this, the seemingly endless house (Neruda kept adding to it) and its contents are still awe-inspiring. There's no one to stop you taking your time on the terrace outside, however, where Neruda's tomb and that of his third wife, Matilde, overlook the sea. Reservations are essential in high season.

8Getting There & Away

Isla Negra is an easy half-day trip from Valparaíso. Pullman Bus Lago Peñuela (%032-222-4025) leaves from Valparaíso's bus terminal every 30 minutes (CH$3200, 1½ hours). Pullman Bus (%600-320-3200; www.pullman.cl) comes here direct from Santiago's Terminal de Buses Alameda (CH$7500, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes).

Parque Nacional La Campana

Within this national park (%033-244-1342; www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-la-campana; adult/child CH$2500/1500; h9am-5:30pm Sat-Thu, 9am-4:30pm Fri) are two of the highest mountains in the coastal range, Cerro El Roble (2200m) and Cerro La Campana (1880m), which Charles Darwin climbed in 1834. Visitor numbers have risen since then, but La Campana remains relatively uncrowded despite its proximity to Santiago. It's subdivided into two main sectors: Conaf's main administration station is at Granizo, near Olmué, 1.5km before the southwest entrance side of the park; and there are sometimes rangers at Ocoa, in the north of the park.

Most of the park's 80 sq km resemble the dry, jagged scrubland of the mountains of Southern California. The park protects around 100 animal species, and several endemic plant species. There's excellent hiking to be had here. Paved access roads lead to the two entrances, but there are no roads within the park. Spring is the best time to visit. Bring your own water (or filter).

2Activities

Sendero AndinistaHIKING

Most people come to make like Darwin and ascend Cerro La Campana: on clear days its summit affords spectacular views stretching from the Pacific to the Andean summit of Aconcagua. From the Granizo park entrance (373m above sea level), the Sendero Andinista climbs 1455m in only 7km.

Mercifully, most of the hike is in shade, and there are three water sources en route. Prior to the final vertiginous ascent you pass a granite wall with a plaque commemorating Darwin's climb. Figure at least four hours to the top and three hours back down.

Sendero Los PeumosHIKING

The 5.5km Sendero Los Peumos connects the Granizo entrance to the Sendero Amasijo, which winds for another 7km through a palm-studded canyon to Ocoa. The whole hike takes five hours one way. The southern part of Sendero Amasijo plunges down into Cajón Grande, a canyon with deciduous forests of southern beech.

Sendero La CascadaHIKING

From Ocoa, Sendero La Cascada leads 6km to Salto de la Cortadera, an attractive 30m waterfall that is best during the spring runoff.

4Sleeping

Conaf CampingCAMPING

(campsite CH$7000)

Conaf runs two basic 23-tent campsites with toilets, barbecue areas and cold-water showers at Granizo and Cajón Grande, further south. Backcountry camping is not permitted. You need to bring all food – and, depending on the weather, drinking water – with you.

8Getting There & Away

Ranger presence is sporadic at Ocoa, so it makes more sense to go through the Granizo entrance. Buses go regularly from Errázuriz in Valparaíso to Limache (CH$1000); from here local buses and colectivos continue to Olmué, and some to Granizo. Talca-based Casa Chueca/Trekking Chile (%071-197-0096; www.trekkingchile.com) operates guided hiking trips (CH$30,000) to the park.

The park is accessible by car from Santiago (160km) and Viña del Mar/Valparaíso (60km). Head north from Santiago on the Panamericana (CH-5), take the turn-off to Tiltil and continue to Olmué, 4km from Granizo. From Viña and Valparaíso take the Autopista Troncal Sur (CH-62) past Quilpué and Villa Alemana to Limache, where you head east to Olmué.