Reserva Nacional Coyhaique

Draped in lenga, ñire and coigue, the 21.5-sq-km Reserva Nacional Coyhaique (admission CH$2000) has small lakes and Cerro Cinchao (1361m). The park is 5km from Coyhaique (about 1½ hours on foot), with views of town and Cerro Mackay's enormous basalt columns in the distance. Take Baquedano north, across the bridge, then go right at the gravel road, a steep climb best accessed by 4WD.

From the park entrance, it's 2.5km to the Casa Bruja sector, where you'll find campsites (CH$5000 per site) with fire pits, hot water, showers and bathrooms. Hike 4km through coigue and lenga forests to Laguna Verde, with picnic sites and camping with basic facilities. Hiking trails also lead to Laguna Los Sapos and Laguna Venus.

Reserva Nacional Río Simpson

Rocky elephant buttes flank the lazy curves of Río Simpson in a broad valley 37km west of Coyhaique. Straddling the highway to Puerto Chacabuco, the 410-sq-km Reserva Nacional Río Simpson is an easily accessed scenic area that is popular with anglers and summer soakers. Conaf's Centro de Visitantes (admission CH$1000; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun), on the Coyhaique–Puerto Aisén road, has a small natural-history museum and botanical garden. A short walk leads to Cascada de la Virgen, a shimmering waterfall on the north side of the highway.

Five kilometers east of the Centro de Visitantes, Camping San Sebastián (campsites per group CH$7000) has sheltered sites and hot showers. Near the confluence of the Río Simpson and Río Correntoso, 24km west of Coyhaique, Camping Río Correntoso (%067-232-005; campsites per group CH$7000) has 50 spacious riverside sites in a bucolic setting. The showers are rustic, but hot.

From Coyhaique there are frequent buses for Puerto Aisén.

Monumento Natural Dos Lagunas

Near Paso Alto Coyhaique on the Argentine border, this 181-hectare wetland reserve (admission CH$2000) hosts diverse birdlife, including black neck swans, coots and grebes. It's an ecological transition zone from southern beech forest to semiarid steppe. Orchids abound. A short hiking trail goes to Laguna El Toro while a longer loop flanks the northern edge of Laguna Escondida. Near the entrance there's a self-guided nature trail (1km) and picnic area. While the park lacks regular public transportation, Coyhaique's branch of Conaf may be able to offer suggestions for getting there.

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael

Awesome and remote, this national park (entry CH$4000) brings visitors face to face with the 30,000-year-old San Valentín glacier in Chile's northern ice field. Established in 1959, the 12,000-sq-km Unesco Biosphere Reserve is a major regional attraction. The park encompasses peaty wetlands, pristine temperate rainforest of southern beech and epiphytes, and 4058m Monte San Valentín, the southern Andes' highest peak. Scientific interest centers on the extreme fluctuation in water level of the glacier-fed lagoon.

Until recently, getting here was expensive and time consuming. Most visitors arrived by cruise, shifting to smaller craft and rubber rafts to approach the glacier's 60m face. Unfortunately, this approach permits only a few hours at the glacier without exploring the surrounding trails.

A new 77km gravel road travels Valle Exploradres from Puerto Río Tranquilo to Bahía Exploradores. The new route makes day trips possible from Río Tranquilo: outfitters provide a necessary boat crossing to continue on from where the road ends. Stay overnight to hear the sighs, splintering and booms of calving ice.

There is camping (per site CH$5000) near the Conaf office by the airstrip. Five rustic campsites have water and bathrooms. Fires are not allowed and no food is available at the park.

Parque Nacional Laguna San RafaelSTEVE ALLEN TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY ©

TTours

The following ships sail from Puerto Chacabuco and Puerto Montt. Check websites for departures and student/senior discounts.

EmtrexGLACIER TOUR

(%cell 8259-4017; www.exploradores-sanrafael.cl; per person day trip/overnight CH$140,000/220,000)

Run by a knowledgeable adventure-travel group, these excursions provide access to the glacier in an open Zodiac boat (passengers are provided with flotation suits). Overnights are spent in a well-heeled base camp in the park. Day trips start at Km75 on the Valle Exploradores road. Longer excursions feature hiking.

Destino PatagoniaGLACIER TOUR

(%cell 9158-6044; www.destinopatagonia.cl; per person full day CH$140,000)

This tour picks up participants at Km77 on the Valle Exploradores road (overland transfers from Puerto Río Tranquilo extra). It visits the San Rafael Glacier in a covered boat. Includes lunch and whiskey on millennial ice.

Cruceros SkorpiosCRUISE

(%in Santiago 02-477-1900; www.skorpios.cl; 6-day, 5-night cruise d occupancy from US$4400)

The luxuriant Skorpios II sails from Puerto Montt, spending all of the third day at the glacier. A highlight is the stop at Quitralco, Skorpios' private hot-springs resort. On the return it visits the island of Chiloé.

NavimagFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %067-223-3306; www.navimag.com; Paseo Horn 47-D, Coyhaique; ferry to Puerto Montt passenger/vehicle from CH$35,000/160,000)

Sailing the lovely fjords and islands of Patagonia, the Puerto Chacabuco to Puerto Montt ferry takes 24 hours. Cabins range from individual bunks in shared rooms to private doubles.

Catamaranes del SurCRUISE

(%067-235-1112; www.catamaranesdelsur.cl; JM Carrera 50, Puerto Chacabuco; glacier day trip per person CH$190,000)

Runs a 12-hour day trip from Puerto Chacabuco on the Catamaran Chaitén and the smaller Iceberg Expedition, with deep discounts in low season. Daytime travel ensures fjord views, but less time at the glacier face. There's also lodging at the exclusive but nondescript Loberías del Sur and visits to its private park Aikén.

Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo

Cerro Castillo's basalt spires are the crowning centerpiece of Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo (admission CH$2000) a sprawling 1800-sq-km mountain reserve of southern beech forest, 75km south of Coyhaique. The park boasts fine fishing and hiking, along with little foot traffic. Its namesake, the 2700m triple-tier Cerro Castillo, is flanked by three major glaciers on its southern slopes. Hikers can complete a segment of Sendero de Chile with the 16km trail to Campamento Neozelandés. Another recommended four-day trek (described in Lonely Planet's Trekking in the Patagonian Andes) leaves from Km75, at the north end of the reserve, and goes to Villa Cerro Castillo at the south end via a high route passing glaciers, rivers and lakes.

Conaf operates a sheltered campground (tent CH$3500) at Laguna Chaguay, 67km south of Coyhaique. It has bathrooms and hot showers. Backcountry camping is also possible. Before going into the backcountry, check in with the ranger to avoid seasonal hazards.

Buses can leave passengers at the turnoff to the ranger station and campground.

Villa Cerro Castillo

Under the sparkly five-karat face of Cerro Castillo, pioneer town Villa Cerro Castillo has a congenial dusty-heeled feel. It's a good base to explore the reserve and a short distance from the Carretera Austral, 10km west of the Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez junction. The town's Festival Costumbrista, usually held in February, offers an authentic take on Patagonian rodeo and draws artists and artisans from all over Chile and Argentina. The helpful tourist office (cnr Carretera Austral & O'Higgins; h10am-1pm & 2pm-6pm Jan-Feb) has information.

The clean family lodging Cabañas Don Niba (%cell 9474-0408; Los Pioneros 872; d CH$25,000, s/d without bathroom CH$9000/18,000) dishes out whopping breakfasts, horseback riding, asados and hikes. Baqueanos de la Patagonia (%cell 6513-6226, cell 7898-8550; www.baqueanosdelapatagonia.cl; Camino sector Arroyo el Bosque; camping per person CH$4000 ) offers camping with hot showers, barbecues and bikes. They also lead good horseback treks and practice domo racional, a gentle taming method.

You can't miss La Cocina de Sole (%cell 9839-8135; Carretera Austral s/n; sandwiches CH$4000; h8:30am-8pm), a roadside bus painted in swirling pastels, serving enormous steak sandwiches and juices. For satisfying sit-down meals, La Querencia (%cell 9503-0746; O'Higgins 522; set menu CH$5000; h8am-8pm) and Villarica (%cell 6656-0173; O'Higgins 592; mains CH$4000-7000; h8am-10pm daily) cook homemade set lunches.

Buses heading north to Coyhaique or south to Puerto Río Tranquilo pass daily.

Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez

%067 / Pop 3000

On the north shore of Lago General Carrera, sleepy Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez serves as a transit station for ferry goers, although new sport-climbing routes are making it a hot stop for climbers. Clobbered in Volcán Hudson's 1991 eruption, it has since recovered.

Ferries to Chile Chico, on the lake's south shore, leave from here. If local handicrafts interest you, ask around for pottery artist Señora Marta Aguila or weaver and herbal-remedy specialist Señora Juana Vega. It's that informal. Locals can also point you to cave paintings or the stunning Río Ibañez falls, 8km away.

Around 1.5km after the turnoff to Ibáñez, La Casona (%cell 7106-3591; senderospatagonia@gmail.com; dm/s/d with shared bathroom CH$12,000/15,000/30,000, d CH$40,000, camping per person CH$5000) offers friendly, electric pink farmhouse lodgings and camping, ideal for cyclists or hikers. Campers will find friendly faces at countryside Maitenal Camping (%cell 8389-2832; Camino a Levican, Km10; campsites per person CH$2500, dm CH$6000), with good installations, including showers, lamb for barbecues and artisan beer. Host Lillian is a certified guide and her German husband Gerald maintains the on-site climbs (suitable for all levels). To get there, follow past the waterfall to Levican and take the right-hand offshoot at km10.

Ferry Naviera Sotramin (%067-252-6992; www.sotramin.cl; General Carrera 202; passenger/automobile CH$2100/18,650) crosses Lago General Carrera almost daily; arrive 30 minutes predeparture. Get current ferry schedules online. To Coyhaique, Buses Acuña (%067-225-1579) goes almost daily (CH$5000, two hours) when the ferry from Chile Chico arrives.

Chile Chico

%067 / Pop 4600

Bordering Argentina, this pint-sized orchard town occupies the windy southern shore of Lago General Carrera. A sunny microclimate makes it a pleasant oasis on the steppe. It is linked to Chile by ferry or a roller-coaster road dotted with gold and silver mines. Locals traditionally earned their living from raising livestock and farming, but have since turned to mining in numbers. Rumor has it that wi-fi is soon coming to town.

Hikers shouldn't miss the Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni, 60km away, with solitary treks in an arid wonderland of flamingo-filled turquoise mountain lagoons. Travelers can cross easily to Los Antiguos, Argentina, and onward to Ruta 40 and points south.

Traveling the abrupt curves of Paso Las Llaves, west from Chile Chico to the junction with the Carretera Austral, is one of the region's highlights. Scary and stunning, it hits blind corners and steep inclines on loose gravel high above the lake. There's no guardrails, so drivers should proceed with caution.

1Sights & Activities

Casa de la CulturaMUSEUM

(%067-241-1355; cnr O'Higgins & Lautaro; h9am-1pm & 3pm-6pm Mon-Fri)F

Features works by regional artists and a 2nd-floor assemblage of local artifacts, including minerals and fossils. Outside, the restored El Andes was built in Glasgow, Scotland, to navigate the Thames, but was brought here to transport passengers and freight around the lake.

Expeditions PatagoniaADVENTURE TOURS

(%cell 8464-1067; www.expeditionspatagonia.com; O'Higgins 333, Galeria Municipal; h9am-1pm & 2:30-8pm)

Run by Ferdinando Georgia, a reputable guide and graduate of Escuela de Guias (a rigorous training program in Coyhaique), this outfitter does trekking in Jeinimeni, multiday trips and mountaineering expeditions.

Patagonia XpressADVENTURE TOUR

(%cell 9802-0280; www.patagoniaxpress.cl; O'Higgins 333, Galería Municipal #4; all-day multisport CH$92,000; h9am-1pm & 3pm-6pm)

Mountain biking and hiking adventures in Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni, where they also do drop-offs (CH$30,000 per person). Friendly staff.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ñandu CampHOSTEL

(%cell 6779-3390; www.nanducamp.com; O'Higgins 750; dm CH$12,000; W)

Ample dorm lodging in an octagonal space with guest kitchen. The mountaineering owners are developing huts in Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni and offer extensive information for trekkers, as well as transfers to the park.

Hospedaje Brisas del LagoGUESTHOUSE

(%067-241-1204; brisasdellago@gmail.com; Manuel Rodríguez 443; s/d apt CH$25,000/35,000, s/d without bathroom CH$15,000/25,000)

There are a number of good-sized rooms, both clean and comfortable, and cute cabins squeezed into the backyard strewn with flowerbeds.

Kon AikenGUESTHOUSE

(%067-241-1598; Pedro Burgos 6; campsites per person CH$4000, r per person CH$12,000, 7-person cabin from CH$30,000)

A handy lodging with a family atmosphere, sometimes chaotic. The kind owners sell firewood, share the bounty of local produce and organize the occasional asado or salmon bake. A row of poplars blocks the winds for campers.

oHostería de la PatagoniaGUESTHOUSE

(%067-241-1337, cell 8159-2146; hdelapatagonia@gmail.com; Camino Internacional s/n; camping per person CH$4000, per person without bathroom CH$15,000, s/d/tr CH$35,000/50,000/61,000, cabin CH$50,000; W)

Descendants of Belgian colonists run this sweet farmhouse with horses, historic memorabilia and a garden hot tub (extra). The first floor rooms are all renovated, with central heating. The cabin is actually a restored boat with kitchen – charming through landlocked. They serve dinner and are very helpful with travel plans. Look for the yellow roof, leaving town toward Argentina.

La Posada del RíoHOTEL

(%cell 9452-0759, cell 9647-0968; www.posadadelriolodge.com; Camino Internacional, Km5; s/d/tr US$66/88/111)

On the open steppe with sweeping views, this boxy newcomer has bright, attractive rooms and breakfasts with orange juice and medialunas (croissants).

Restaurante FacundoCHILEAN

(%067-241-1452; Manuel Rodriguez 243; mains CH$8000; hnoon-3:30pm & 7-11pm)

A bustling restaurant with lake views and rustic wood details. Service is slow but portions of roast potatoes, salad and lamb or salmon come enormous.

8Information

BancoEstadoBANK

(González 112; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri)

Changes US cash only and has reasonable rates, but collects a commission on all traveler's checks. The ATM only takes MasterCard.

ConafTOURIST INFORMATION

(%067-241-1325; Blest Gana 121; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat)

For information on Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni.

Oficina de Información TurísticaTOURIST INFORMATION

(%067-241-1338; www.chilechico.cl; cnr O'Higgins & Blest Ghana; h8am-1pm & 2pm-5pm Mon-Fri)

Excellent area information.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

(Manuel Rodríguez 121)

8Getting There & Away

There's a Copec gas station.

Boat

An almost-daily ferry run by Naviera Sotramin (%067-223-7958; www.sotramin.cl; Muelle Chile Chico; passenger/automobile CH$2000/17,700) crosses Lago General Carrera to Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez, a big shortcut to Coyhaique. If driving, make reservations a week out in summer. Arrive 30 minutes pre-departure.

Bus

A number of shuttle buses cross the border to Los Antiguos, Argentina (CH$2000, 20 minutes), just 9km east. Shuttles, which coordinate with buses that run directly to El Chaltén, leave from O'Higgins 420.

From Los Antiguos, travelers can make connections in Argentina to Perito Moreno, El Chaltén and southern Argentine Patagonia.

Bus routes are run by private individuals subject to applying for the government concession, thus providers and schedules can vary from year to year.

To Puerto Guadal (CH$7000, 2½ hours), Seguel (%067-243-1214; O'Higgins 394) and Buses Eca (%067-243-1224) go Monday to Friday at 4pm or 5pm. To Puerto Río Tranquilo (CH$14,000, four hours), Costa Carrera has service on Tuesday and Friday at 11am. To Cochrane (CH$14,000, four hours), Fernando Varas (%cell 7756-8234) goes on Monday and Friday at 8am.

Buses Acuña (%067-225-1579; Rodríguez 143) and Buses Carolina (%067-241-1490; ferry office) go to Coyhaique (CH$5000, 3½ hours) with a ferry-bus combination; reserve ahead. You will first take the Naviera Sotramin Ferry to Puerto Ibáñez.

Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni

Turquoise lakes and the rusted hues of the steppe mark the rarely visited Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni (admission CH$2000) 52km southwest of Chile Chico. Its unusual wonders range from cave paintings to foxes and flamingos. In the transition zone to the Patagonian steppe, it covers 1610 sq km. Through-hikers can link to Valle Chacabuco via a three-day mountain traverse; for details ask at Parque Nacional Patagonia.

Three private camping areas (per site CH$5000) are on the banks of the startlingly blue Lago Jeinimeni, about 400m from the Conaf office. Sendero Lago Verde takes visitors on a three-hour, 10km-round-trip hike to a gemstone lake. For park access, 4WD is necessary because Río Jeinimeni cuts across the road, causing sporadic flooding conditions. Day-trippers should leave early enough to cross on the way back before 4pm.

Beginning at Sendero Lago Verde, the four-day (45km) backpacking route to Aviles Valley in Futuro Parque Nacional Patagonia via Paso de la Gloria is gaining interest, though the logistics are not easy (transfers must be arranged ahead). The route requires navigational skills and mountain expertise, as there are minimal markings and many river crossings. Operator Patagonia Huts (%cell 6779-3390; hiking packages per person per day US$250) offers all-inclusive mountain guide service, with stays at a new private refugio in the park.

En route to the reserve, about 25km south of Chile Chico, an access road leads to Cueva de las Manos, Tehuelche cave paintings less impressive than their Argentine counterpart of the same name. Reaching the cave requires a steep uphill climb (unmarked) best done with a guide.

Puerto Río Tranquilo

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A village of shingled houses on the windy western shores of Lago General Carrera, Puerto Río Tranquilo is a humble pit stop in a growth spurt. For many travelers, it's just a fuel stop, but growing outdoor opportunities have put it on the map. It's the closest access point to Capilla de Marmol's cool marble caves. More recently it's become the launch point for more budget-minded tours to the stunning Glaciar San Rafael.

There's no ATM.

1Sights & Activities

Due to the invasive didymo algae, boats and kayaks need permits, available at the Capitanía.

Capilla de MármolLANDMARK

(Marble Chapel)

Well worth the detour, these sculpted geological formations are accessible by boat on Lago General Carrera. Trips (from CH$40,000 for five passengers) only go out in calm boating conditions. If you're driving, continue 8km south of town to the tour boats at Bahia Manso. It's directly across from the caves and at a shorter boating distance.

Valle ExploradoresDRIVING TOUR

This new east–west road heads toward Laguna San Rafael, but stops short at a water crossing. Gorgeous but rough, it is still a worthy driving or biking detour, crowded with glaciers and overgrown nalca plants. Keep an eye out for the Glaciar Exploradores Overlook (CH$1500 trail fee) at Km52. Day trippers to Glaciar San Rafael meet their outfitters at the end of the road.

4Sleeping & Eating

Residencial DarkaGUESTHOUSE

(%cell 9126-5292; Arrayanes 330; r per person CH$13,000)

Family-run, with clean rooms. The pastels and lace provide a good dose of kitsch.

Camping PuduCAMPGROUND

(%cell 8920-5085; www.puduexcursiones.cl; campsites per person CH$6000; hDec-Mar)

Attractive beach camping with hot showers, laundry service and sauna (CH$12,000), 1km south of Puerto Río Tranquilo. Offers tourist information.

oEl PuestoINN

(%cell 6207-3794; www.elpuesto.cl; Pedro Lagos 258; s/d/tr US$131/184/210; W)

This smart 10-room hotel pampers with woolen slippers, hand-woven throws and rockers. There's even a swing set for kids. English-speaking owners Francisco and Tamara run reputable ice treks on Glacier Exploradores, kayaking and other services. Dinner (CH$15,000) is available with reservations; they also offer massage and rent local cabins.

Campo AlacalufINN

(www.campoalacaluf.com; Km44, Valle Exploradores; camping per person CH$3000, d/tr CH$46,000/60,000, d/tr without bathroom CH$28,000/42,000)

This rural stone lodging is the sole option in remote Valle Exploradores (located roughly midway). The German owners also offer showers for campers (CH$1500), meals (from CH$8000), and lunchboxes with homemade bread. There's no phone but you can reserve via the website.

Cervecería Río TranquiloBREWPUB

(%cell 9895-5577; Carretera Austral s/n; sandwiches CH$5000)

Facing the tourism kiosk, this pub makes artisan Arisca beer onsite, served alongside lamb sandwiches on homemade bread with mint chimichurri.

8Information

Tourism KioskTOURIST INFORMATION

(Av Costanera s/n; h10am-1pm & 2-6:30pm Tue-Sun Dec-Mar)

Has information about lodging, alternate transportation (including vans to Valle Exploradores) and tours to the Capilla de Mármol.

Casa del TuristaTOURIST INFORMATION

(%cell 5189-3146; cnr Av Costanera & Pedro Lagos; h9am-noon & 4-9pm)

Organizes adventure tours and boat trips to Glacier San Rafael.

8Getting There & Away

Regular buses between Coyhaique (CH$10,000) and Cochrane (CH$8000) will drop off and pick up passengers here. Minibus Vidal (%cell 9932-9896) travels to Coyhaique twice weekly. Coyhaique-bound buses usually pass at around 10am. Those heading further south pass between 1pm and 2pm. To Chile Chico (CH$14,000), the bus passes at around 2pm on Wednesday and Sunday.

Cruce el Maitén

Cruce el Maitén is little more than a fork in the road where an eastern route branches alongside Lago General Carrera to Chile Chico. With a new adventure center on the lake, reputable tour operator Pared Sur (%cell 9345-6736, in Santiago 022-207-3525; www.paredsur.cl; Bahia Catalina) has deluxe camping and packages for biking, kayaking, rafting and canopy tours. Lakeside Hacienda Tres Lagos (%067-241-1323; www.haciendatreslagos.com; Km274; s/d from US$280/312; iW) offers elegant accommodations, fishing excursions and amenities that aim to please all, namely an art gallery, zip line, sauna, Jacuzzi, cafe and game room.

Puerto Guadal

Windy but damn postcard beautiful, Puerto Guadal is located at the southwest end of Lago General Carrera on the road to Chile Chico, 13km east of the Carretera Austral. The village appears to hold siesta at all hours, but cool accommodations, nearby fossil hikes and glaciers can keep a visitor very entertained.

Adventure outfitter Kalen (%067-243-1289, cell 8811-2535; turismokalenpatagonia@gmail.com; Los Alerces 557; h9am-9pm) is run by reputable guide Pascual Diaz. He offers horseback riding, glacier trips (CH$60,000) and hikes to a beautiful fossil bed (CH$25,000 per person) with a four-person minimum. Contact in advance, as the small office closes during outings.

4Sleeping

Destino No TuristicoHOSTEL, CAMPGROUND

(%cell 8756-7545; www.destino-noturistico.com; Camino Laguna La Manga, Km 1; campsites per person CH$5500, dm/d CH$12,000/28,000)S

With rave reviews, ecocamp and hostel Destino No Turistico provides a lovely countryside getaway. Owners Rocio and Marcelo are active educators, teaching off-grid living and sharing their useful innovations. The hostel is impeccable, with comfortable beds, each with its own reading lamp, in addition to solar showers, kitchen use and composting toilets.

It's situated 1.5km from town, an uphill walk. A pickup may be possible for multiple-day stays. Cars should park outside the entrance gate.

oTerra LunaCABINS

(%067-243-1263; www.terra-luna.cl; campsites per person CH$510,000, 2-person huts CH$36,000, d/tr/q from CH$77,000/95,000/105,000; Wc)

Lakeside adventure lodge Terra Luna presents the option of perfect repose or an adrenaline rush. Lodgings vary from smart apartments to cabins and excellent treehouses, with the tempting extra of a lakefront wood-fired hot tub. The restaurant serves a set menu of chef-prepared meals nightly. Adorable budget-oriented huts with kitchen and camp sites suit budget travelers, though spots are few.

With sprawling grounds, there is also a play area, kayaks and zip lines. Run by Azimut, a French-owned guide service, there are frequent excursions like glacier visits and hikes by jet boat, canyoning and overnighting on the Campo de Hielo Norte. It's 1.5km from Puerto Guadal toward Chile Chico.

8Getting There & Away

Buses leave from ECA (%067-243-1224; Las Magnolias 306), heading north to Coyhaique (CH$11,000) Wednesdays and Sundays at around 8am. Bus services that are southbound pass the crossroads just outside of town, to Cochrane (CH$5000) starting at around 2pm.

Seguel (%067-231-1214; Los Notros 560) services Chile Chico (CH$7000, three hours) on Mondays and Thursdays at about 7am. Check locally for other bus servcies; the website of Destino No Turistico usually has updated information.

Puerto Bertrand & the Baker River

%067 / Pop 1500

On the bank of the ultramarine blue Lago Bertrand below the snow-covered San Valentín and Campo de Hielo Norte, Puerto Bertrand is a show of contrasts. Weathered shingle homes overgrown with rose blossoms and high-end fishing lodges share the space of this humble stop. Bertrand occupies the southeast shore of the lake, situated 11km south of Cruce el Maitén. It is also the base for rafting Río Baker, Chile's most voluminous river.

The Río Baker flows from Lago Bertrand, running parallel to the Carretera Austral south toward Cochrane. Lodges and a museum flank this scenic strip.

1Sights & Activities

oLa ConfluenciaLANDMARK

(The Confluence)

Don't miss this dramatic viewpoint, where Chile's most powerful river, the Baker, froths into a broad, behemoth cascade before merging with the milkier, glacial-fed Río Nef in a swirling contrast of mint and electric blue. It's 12km south of Puerto Bertrand. Park roadside and follow the 800m trail.

Museo Pioneros del BakerMUSEUM

(www.fundacionriobaker.cl; Carretera Austral s/n; hby request)F

In a pioneer house, this adorable new cultural museum packs in engaging details, from Patagonian sayings to pioneer relics and molds of animal tracks. It's all in Spanish. For the key, go to the caretaker's house out back. It's located roadside between Puerto Bertrand and the entrance to Valle Chacabuco.

Baker Patagonia AventuraRAFTING

(%cell 8817-7525; www.bakerpatagonia.com; half-day trips CH$28,000)

Leads five-day and one-day (Class III) raft trips on the Río Baker. The office faces Lago Bertrand.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostería Puerto BertrandGUESTHOUSE

(%cell 9219-1532; Costanera s/n; r per person without bathroom CH$12,000, cabin CH$45,000)

Above the general store, this rickety wood home has a cozy atmosphere with soft armchairs and lace-covered tables. Shop around for a room with ventilation.

Patagonia Green BakerCABINS

(%cell 9159-7757, in Santiago 02-196-0409; www.greenlodgebaker.com; Carretera Austral s/n; d CH$60,000; 2-/3-/4-person cabins CH$60,000/75,000/90,000)

These two-story cabins are a pleasant enough stop. Riverside, the complex features a hot tub, restaurant and activities like kayaking and horseback riding. Cabins have direct TV and phones. It's 3km south of Puerto Bertrand.

oBordebaker LodgeCABINS

(%in Santiago 022-585-8464; www.bordebaker.cl; Carretera Austral s/n; d US$260)

A tasteful design hotel with rustic touches, Bordebaker has a two-story main lodge connected by boardwalk to modern cabins. Each overlooks a sublime stretch of the emerald Baker River. The lodge offers tours with local operators and organic chef-made meals (dinner US$40). It's 8km south of Puerto Bertrand.

Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia)

Eighteen kilometers north of Cochrane, this reformed estancia (grazing ranch) is home to flamingo, guanaco, huemul (endangered Andean deer), puma, viscacha and fox. Conservacion Patagonica, the NGO behind the Patagonia National Park project, began this initiative in 2004. Now dubbed the Serengeti of the Southern Cone, the 690-sq-km Valle Chacabuco features Patagonian steppe, forests, mountains, lakes and lagoons. The park stretches from the Río Baker to the Argentine border. In a private vehicle, it's possible to cross here at Paso Roballos.

It's still a national park in the making. Combining this valley with Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni to the north and Reserva Nacional Tamango to the south will eventually result in a 2400-sq-km park worthy of one day rivaling Torres del Paine.

Major rehabilitation, with the help of many volunteers, has reinstated the valley as an important wildlife corridor. Already foxes and herds of guanaco are easily spotted. Studies underway in the park look at grasslands ecology and track huemul populations. The park's roaming population consists of around 120 huemules, out of a worldwide population of 2000.

The park is still adding trails and campgrounds.

Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia)NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC IMAGE COLLECTION/ALAMY ©

2Activities

Lagunas Altas TrailHIKING

This 23km trail ascends from the Westwind Camping site (near park headquarters) toward a southern ridge and heads east across open terrain and around small gemstone lakes before winding down toward the administration buildings, with spectacular views of the Chacabuco Valley, San Lorenzo, the northern Patagonian ice field and the Jeinimeni Mountains. It's a long day hike; bring plenty of water.

Aviles Valley TrailHIKING

A gorgeous 16km loop through open steppe. It starts at the Stone House Camping site (25km up valley from the main park headquarters). Continue for a three- to four-day (about 45km) backpack to Jeinimeni National Reserve near Chile Chico, but get detailed information first, as the reserve is far from town, with no public transportation.

Valley DriveWILDLIFE WATCHING

The 72km drive from the Río Baker to the Argentine border climbs through steppe, with flamingos in lagoons and foxes crossing the road. Drive slowly and pull out only where there's room.

TTours

Guided ToursTOUR

(half-day 6-person group US$150)

An official park guide offers excellent birdwatching tours, guided tours and treks, in English and in Spanish. Book far in advance.

4Sleeping & Eating

Visitors can also lodge in nearby Cochrane.

Westwind CampingCAMPGROUND

(campsite per person CH$5000)

In the valley, this large, grassy campground features eight covered cook shelters and a bathhouse with hot solar showers. Sites are first-come, first-served. It's 4km from the administrative area.

Stone House CampingCAMPGROUND

(campsite per person CH$5000)

Part way up the valley drive, it's about 25km from the administrative area. The bathrooms are housed in a historic stone outpost left over from the park's days as a sheep estancia.

The Lodge at Valle ChacabucoBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(reservas@vallechacabuco.cl; s/d US$350/500; hmid-Oct–Apr)

Classic and refined, this beautiful stone lodge was modeled on English architecture in southern Argentina. Patterned tiles, handsome wood and large photographic nature prints foster a warm ambience. There are just ten guest rooms, mostly doubles with some bunks for families. Advance reservations required.

El Rincón GauchoINTERNATIONAL

(set lunch/dinner CH$10,000/17,000)

In the park administration area, this handsome bar and restaurant provides an ambient setting for lunch or dinner. An onsite greenhouse supplies most of the fresh produce and local lamb is served. In addition to a set menu, there's sandwiches, takeout lunches and tea.

8Information

Visitors can go to Park Headquarters (%in Puerto Varas 065-297-0833; www.conservacionpatagonica.org; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) for trail maps and information. The official blog (www.conservacionpatagonica.org/blog) offers more information about the project and the region. A natural-history center is in the works. Contact the website to take part in their extensive volunteer program.

8Getting There & Away

The entrance to the park is 18km north of Cochrane. Look for the sign for Entrada Baker. Buses between Cochrane and Coyhaique can drop passengers at the entrance, but the administrative area is 11km further east on the main road to Paso Roballos.

A 12-passenger van can be booked through the park for transfers to Cochrane (CH$50,000) or within the park; arrange far in advance. In Cochrane, El Chilotito (%cell 5648-6019; Teniente Merino 200) offers reasonable transfers (4-passenger truck CH$30,000) and park tours.

Cochrane

%067 / Pop 2900

An old ranching outpost, Cochrane is the southern hub of the Carretera Austral. With plans for nearby hydroelectric dams scrapped, the speculative boom has ended and the village has since reverted to its languorous state.

Though seemingly oblivious to tourism, Cochrane is the gateway to the new Parque Nacional Patagonia, Reserva Nacional Tamango, and fishing destination Lago Cochrane. It's also the best place for information along this lonely stretch of road and a last-chance stop to fill up the tank.

1Sights & Activities

Calluqueo GlacierNATURE

This glacier descending from the southeast flanks of Mt. San Lorenzo has only recently become a tourist attraction. It requires boat access and a guide.

Mercado MunicipalMARKET

(cnr Pioneros & Vicente Previske; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri)

A covered market with artisan crafts in addition to local produce sold on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

Patagonia Adventure ExpeditionsADVENTURE TOURS

(%cell 8182-0608; www.adventurepatagonia.com; Sol de Mayo Ranch)

A pioneering high-end adventure outfitter adding scientific support and education to the mix, with a Wilderness Experience Center under construction. Meanwhile, there's fixed dates for horseback treks through Aysen Glacier Trail and ice-to-sea floating on the Río Baker. The base is four hours from Cochrane; contact first via email.

Lord PatagoniaTREKKING

(%cell 8267-8115; www.lordpatagonia.cl; Lago Brown 388; full-day CH$50,000)

Guide Jimmy Valdes takes groups to Glaciar Calluqueo on trekking day trips and overnights.

4Sleeping & Eating

Residencial Cero a CeroGUESTHOUSE

(%067-252-2158, cell 7607-8155; ceroacero@gmail.com; Lago Brown 464; d CH$30,000, r per person without bathroom CH$10,000; W)

A log home that has ample space, Cero a Cero is a comfortable option with good beds, plenty of windows and a warm, cozy interior.

Latitude 47GUESTHOUSE

(%cell 8252-2118; Lago Brown 564; r per person without bathroom CH$10,000)

A selection of narrow upstairs rooms with single beds and kitchen use. The more recently constructed rooms with bathroom, in an independent area, are worthy upgrades.

Cabañas Sol y LunaCABINS

(%cell 8157-9602; xmardonestorres@hotmail.com; Camino a la Reserva Tamango; 4-person cabins CH$55,000; i)

Nice, new and well equipped, these cabins help you achieve a needed rest, 1km outside town. There's also a sauna and hot tubs.

Restaurant Ada'sCHILEAN

(%cell 8399-5889; Teniente Merino 374; mains CH$5500; h12pm-10pm)

Serving crisp whole fish or tender beef, bottles of wine, salads and potatoes, these big meals add up to a good deal. Service is attentive too.

Café TamangoCAFE

(%cell 9158-4521; Esmeralda 464; mains CH$5000; h9am-7:30pm Mon-Sat; v)

Everything looks good in this cafe, from the homemade candies and chestnut ice cream to sandwiches, lentil burgers and couscous served with garden lettuce. It's set back from the road with outdoor seating.

Nacion PatagoniaCAFE

(%cell 9988-7766; Las Golondrinas 198; hhr vary)

Ideal for a coffee and a conversation, this eclectic cafe also doubles as a cultural information center.

8Information

BancoEstadoBANK

(Esmeralda 460)

ATM accepts MasterCard only.

ConafTOURIST INFORMATION

(%067-522-164; Río Nef 417; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)

HospitalHOSPITAL

(%067-522-131; O'Higgins 755; h24hr)

Emergency is open 24 hours.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

(Esmeralda 199; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat)

Tourist KioskTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.cochranepatagonia.cl; Plaza de Armas; h9am-1pm & 2-9pm Jan-Mar)

With bus schedules, fishing guides and taxi information. In the off-season there's tourist information in a municipal building near the plaza.

8Getting There & Away

Buses go daily to Coyhaique, usually at 8am. Companies include Buses Don Carlos (%067-252-2150; Prat 334), Buses Acuario 13 (%067-252-2143; Río Baker 349) and Sao Paulo (%067-252-2143; Río Baker 349).

Various companies provide morning or evening service to Caleta Tortel. Those include Buses Aldea (%067-522-143; Río Baker 349), Pachamama (%cell 9411-4811), Bus Patagonia and Acuario 13.

For Villa O'Higgins (CH$8000), Buses Catalina (%067-252-2333, cell 8429-8970; Las Golondrinas 398) departs at 8am on Thursday and Sunday.

Chile Chico is served by Turismo Baker (%067-252-2020; cnr Steffan & Golondrinas, correos) three days per week, with stops in Puerto Bertrand and Puerto Guadal.

To Valle Chacabuco (Patagonia National Park), the Confluencia and Glaciar Calluqueo, Turismo Cochrane Patagonia (%cell 8256-7718, cell 7450-2323; www.turismocochranepatagonia.com; park day trip CH$30,000) offers private vans, with a minimum of passengers, but sells out well in advance.

THE TOMPKINS LEGACY

Ecobarons – the wealthy philanthropists recycling their greenbacks into green causes – have stamped an indelible presence on Southern Cone conservation and none more so than US entrepreneurs Douglas and Kris Tompkins. With holdings in Chile and Argentina, the couple has conserved over two million acres of land, which is more than any individual in history. While this power couple started in the trenches of retail (she as CEO of Patagonia, he as founder of The North Face and Esprit), they have turned their industry toward rewilding key ecosystems.

It started in 1991 with Parque Pumalín, a Rhode Island–sized conservation project cobbled together from small Patagonian farms abutting ancient forest. Then in 2004, Kris Tompkins purchased a run-down estancia (grazing ranch) near Cochrane through nonprofit Conservación Patagonica. Intensive sheep ranching had resulted in the widespread desertification of the ranch, which had ceased turning a profit. Its major rehabilitation has recast it as an important wildlife corridor between two other parks. Known as Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia), the 690-sq-km park features Patagonian steppe, forests, mountains, lakes and lagoons.

Re-creating a home on the range was never so hard won. To restore grasslands, invasive plant species that proliferated with livestock were ripped out by hand. Over 644km of fencing was removed so native guanaco and huemul could return – and they did.

The Tompkins' sweeping land purchases initially stirred up suspicion and regional resentment in Chile. Yet as time goes by, much of the initial criticism has died down. Easing the public's misapprehension, national parks Corcovado and Yendegaia have already been donated to the state. More recently, the couple was presented with the 2015 Kiel Institute Global Economy Prize for their conservation efforts.

Many Chileans now find the parks to be valuable national assets. The donations have even inspired copycats, like former Chilean president Sebastian Piñera's Parque Tantauco in Chiloé.

Reserva Nacional Tamango

Boasting Chile's largest population of endangered huemul deer, Reserva Nacional Tamango (admission CH$3500; camping per site CH$5000) protects a 70-sq-km transition zone to the Patagonian steppe. Huemul are notoriously shy, but the chances of sighting one are better here than anywhere else. At the entrance, trails (1.5km to 7km in length) lead to Laguna Elefantina, Laguna Tamanguito and 1722m Cerro Tamango. The reserve is located 6km northeast of Cochrane; there is no public transportation to the entrance. At the corner of Colonia and San Valentín, hikers can take Pasaje No 1 north and then east to access trails to the entrance. Cochrane's Conaf office may have trail maps available.

Caleta Tortel

%067 / Pop 320

A network of creaky boardwalks tracing the milky waters of the glacier-fed sound, Caleta Tortel feels fabled. There are no roads. Dedicated as a national monument, this fishing village cobbled around a steep escarpment is certainly unique. Seated between two ice fields at the mouth of Río Baker, it was first home to canoe-traveling Alacalufes (Qawashqar); colonists didn't arrive until 1955. Still isolated but more outwardly social than other Patagonians, locals live off tourism and cypress-wood extraction. Dependence on a small turbine means that the town has water and electricity shortages in big droughts. Use water sparingly. If you're here to disconnect, you can enjoy the fact that there's no wi-fi yet.

The road stops at the edge of town, near the El Rincon sector. Boardwalks and staircases lead to the center and past, to the sector of Playa Ancha, a wide beach. Water taxis help people get around town, but it's best to take minimal luggage keeping in mind the numerous staircases.

1Sights & Activities

Imposing glaciers like Glacier Montt (Campo de Hielo Sur) and Glacier Steffens (Campo de Hielo Norte) can only be reached by boat. Motorized boat trips for eight to 10 people cost around CH$300,000. Some excursions include hiking or horseback riding. Rates are divided by the number of passengers and departures are dependent on weather.

Paz AustralGLACIER TOUR

(%cell 9579-3779; www.entrehielostortel.cl)

Trips to Glacier Steffens and Reserva Katalalixar (on demand) and the mouth of the Río Baker and Isla Los Muertos (daily).

Destinos PatagoniaGLACIER TOUR

(%cell 7704-2651; claudio.landeros@live.cl; per person 2-day package CH$200,000)

Boat Qawasqar visits both glaciers as well as Isla los Muertos.

JunquilloHIKING

Above the Rincon sector of Tortel, this three-hour round-trip offer views of the Baker estuary and canals.

4Sleeping & Eating

Playa Ancha CampingCAMPGROUND

(Playa Ancha; campsites free)

Camping is free but primitive with a stunning rivermouth setting. No services.

Brisas del SurGUESTHOUSE

(%cell 5688-2723; valerialanderos@hotmail.com; Playa Ancha sector; d CH$35,000, r per person without bathroom CH$12,000; W)

Señora Valería puts guests at ease in snug rooms with lovely beach views and smells of good cooking wafting up the stairs.

Residencial EstiloGUESTHOUSE

(%cell 8255-8487; zuri1_67@hotmail.com; d/ste CH$40,000/60,000, r per person without bathroom CH$15,000)

Alejandra's well-kept wooden house with bright colors and tidy doubles with down duvets.

oEntre HielosB&B

(%cell 9579-3779; www.entrehielostortel.cl; s/d US$118/150; W)

A lovely cypress home located at the top of a steep staircase, this wonderful lodging boasts both modern style and family warmth, with a two-night minimum. Breakfast includes real coffee and homemade jams. Chef-prepared dinners may include local beef or salmon from the Río Baker and there's a great selection of wines. Also run boat tours.

Sabores LocalesCHILEAN

(%cell 9087-3064; mains CH$6000-10,000; h1pm-1am; v)

Maritza cooks up a storm of tasty soups, smoked salmon and ceviche dishes in this cute cafe with vegetarian options.

8Information

Tourism KioskTOURISM INFORMATION

(www.municipalidaddetortel.cl; h9am-11pm Tue-Sun)

Helpful with some English-speaking staff. At the entry to the village, where buses stop.

8Getting There & Away

All buses depart from a stop next to the tourism kiosk in the upper entrance to the village since there is no motorized access to town. There are three bus companies serving Cochrane (CH$7000, three hours). Buses Aldea (%cell 6232-2798) departs four days per week at various hours. Pachamama goes six times per week and Buses Patagonia goes three times per week.

Currently, there is no public transportation to Villa O'Higgins (four hours), but this may change so check with the Tourism Kiosk.

Charging per trip, not per person, boat taxis leave from the Rincon sector for the center (CH$4500), Playa Ancha (CH$7000) and Isla de los Muertos (CH$50,000); they also do tours of the bay (CH$10,000). One provider is Sergio Ganga (%cell 9677-1755).

South to Villa O'Higgins

Wild stretches of rushing rivers and virgin forest flank the curvy road south of El Vagabundo and the access road to Caleta Tortel. The Carretera Austral demands constant attention here with sectors of washboard road and potential slides. It's best to travel in a high-clearance vehicle.

At Puerto Yungay, a government ferry (www.barcazas.cl) hauls passengers and four cars to the east end of Fiordo Mitchell at Río Bravo, at 10am, noon and 6pm (free, one hour) from December to March, with trips twice daily in low season. Return trips from the Villa O'Higgins side leave at 11am, 1pm and 7pm. Drivers should arrive early. Pass the time with a scrumptious empanada from the kiosk.

After the ferry crossing, another 100km of rugged road leads to the north end of a narrow arm of Lago O'Higgins (known as Lago San Martín on the Argentine side).

Villa O'Higgins

%067 / Pop 612

The last stop on the Carretera Austral, this mythic village is alluring in its isolation. First settled by the English (1914–16), the outpost attracted few Chileans – the road didn't arrive until 1999. The spectacular surroundings can be explored on horseback or foot, and there's world-class fishing. A growing number of trekkers and cyclists are crossing over from El Chaltén, Argentina. Plans to create road access to Argentina via Entrada Mayer and add a strip of road between Candelaria Mansilla and Lago del Desierto (which would still require ferry use) will greatly facilitate travel to and from Argentina.

Almost no one uses addresses but locals are happy to point you in the right direction. There's no ATM here so bring all the cash you will need.

TTours

Villa O'Higgins ExpedicionesADVENTURE TOUR

(%067-243-1821, cell 8210-3191; www.villaohiggins.com)

Guided horseback riding or trekking trips are available with advance booking through Hans Silva's full-service company, which also rents bikes.

Robinson CrusoeGLACIER TOUR

(%067-243-1822; www.villaohiggins.com; Carretera Austral s/n; glacier tour CH$88,000; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)

Departing from Puerto Bahamondez, catamaran La Quetru tours to Glaciar O'Higgins, an impressive glacier on the Campo Hielo Sur, with drop-offs at Candelario Mansilla (CH$42,000) for those hiking to Argentina. Available around November through March.

ARGENTINA VIA THE BACK DOOR

Gonzo travelers can skirt the southern ice field to get from Villa O'Higgins to Argentina's Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and El Chaltén. The one- to three-day trip can be completed between November and April. Bring all of your provisions, plus your passport and rain gear. Travel delays due to bad weather or boat problems do happen. Travel with extra food and extra pesos. The trip goes as follows:

• Take the 8am bus from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondez (CH$1000).
• Take catamaran La Quetru (CH$42,000, four hours) from Villa O'Higgins to Candelario Mansilla on the south edge of Lago O'Higgins. It goes one to three times a week, mostly on Saturdays with some Monday or Wednesday departures. Candelario Mansilla has basic lodging, guided treks and pack-horse rental. Pass through Chilean customs and immigration here.
• Trek or ride to Laguna Redonda (two hours). Camping is not allowed.
• Trek or ride to Laguna Larga (1½ hours). Camping is not allowed.
• Trek or ride to the north shore of Lago del Desierto (1½ hours). Camping is allowed. Pass through Argentine customs and immigration here.
• Take the ferry from the north to the south shores of Lago del Desierto (US$30, 2¼ hours). Another option is to hike the coast (15km, five hours). Camping is allowed. Check current ferry schedules with Argentine customs.
• Grab the shuttle bus to El Chaltén, 37km away (US$28, one hour).

For more information, consult Robinson Crusoe (%067-431-821, 067-431-822; www.villaohiggins.com) in O'Higgins or Rancho Grande Hostel on the Argentine side.

4Sleeping & Eating

oEl MoscoHOSTEL

(%067-243-1819; www.patagoniaelmosco.blogspot.com; Carretera Austral Km1240; campsites per person CH$5000, dm CH$9000, d CH$45,000, s/d without bathroom CH$18,000/30,000)

Friendly and full-service, this buzzing outpost hosts loads of cyclists, trekkers and even the odd conventional traveler. It's all about the service, and Orfelina nails it with motherly care. There's a collection of area topographical maps and worthwhile extras include a private wooden hot tub and a Finnish sauna.

Ecocamp TsonekCAMPGROUND

(%cell 7892-9695; www.tsonek.cl; Carretera Austral s/n; campsites per person/cyclist CH$4000/3000; W)S

A conservation project in a beautiful beech forest with tent platforms (and some loaner tents), composting toilets, hot solar showers and kitchen. It's the dream project of El Pajarero, a talented birdwatching guide who also guides excursions and float trips.

Hospedaje RuralGUESTHOUSE

(%067-243-1805; sector Candelario Mansilla; r per person without bathroom CH$8000, campsites per person CH$2500)

If you're reaching for the final, final frontier, check out this lodging in the southernmost sector of Candelario Mansilla, reached by ferry. Dinner (CH$6000) and breakfast (CH$3000) are extra. Host Don Ricardo can help you explore area trails to glaciers, lakes and rivers.

Hospedaje PatagoniaGUESTHOUSE

(%067-431-818; Río Pascua & Lago Christie; s/d without bathroom CH$12,000/24,000, s CH$20,000)

A selection of simple, clean doubles in a rambling house. Meal or tea service may be possible.

Robinson Crusoe LodgeLODGE

(Deep Patagonia; %cell 9357-8196, in Santiago 02-334-1503; www.robinsoncrusoe.com; Carretera Austral Km1240; d US$220; W)

Alone in the upscale niche, this modern prefab construction is made warm with colorful Andean throws and comfortable sofas with yarn cushions. While the hotel overshoots the value of a comfy king-sized bed, it does offer nice amenities like varied buffet breakfasts and wooden-tub Jacuzzis. Most guests come with an all-inclusive package that includes activities with bilingual guides.

El CampanarioCHILEAN

(Lago O'Higgins 72; set menu CH$4500)

Good-value home-cooked meals, though you may have to wait a while.

Entre PatagonesCHILEAN

(%067-243-1810; Av Carretera Austral s/n; mains CH$8000-10,000)

This faux-rustic log restaurant and bar serves up tasty and abundant meals of salmon and salad or barbecue specialties. Call ahead to ensure service; it's at the entrance to town. It also rents attractive cabins.

7Shopping

Taller Marcela StormesaniART STUDIO

(%cell 6679-7125; pintaconursupacion.blogspot.com; Lago Cisnes s/n; hhr vary)

The backyard workshop of Marcela Stormesani makes an interesting visit, with her colorful, locally themed paintings and beautiful crafts by local artists.

8Information

Information KioskTOURIST INFORMATION

(Plaza Cívica; h8:30am-1pm & 2:30-7pm Nov-March)

May have trekking maps. Located on the plaza where there's also free (but weak) wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

Twice weekly flights to Coyhaique (CH$28,000, 1½ hours) are offered by Aerocord, but fill up fast.

Catch buses on the Carretera Austral, since the new bus terminal has yet to be inaugurated. Buses Catalina goes to Cochrane (CH$8,000, six hours) on Friday and Monday at 8am. Frequency changes in low season.