EGGS AND DAIRY

CHILI-FRIED EGGS FROM SRI LANKA

CHILI EGGS

This is a simple and delicious version of fried eggs from Sri Lanka, inspired by those served at Sun House in Galle. Here I am using a new technique for frying eggs that I have recently learned. It requires the eggs to be broken into a cold pan and uses much less oil.

The recipe can easily be doubled; just use a medium frying pan instead of a small one. Serve the eggs with toast.

MAKES 2

From Jeffrey Dobbs, the Sun House in Galle, Sri Lanka

4 teaspoons olive or peanut oil

4 tablespoons peeled and finely diced shallots

1 fresh hot green chili, finely chopped

¼ cup finely diced tomato

Salt

2 eggs

1. Put 2 teaspoons of the oil in a small nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the shallots and green chilies and cook, stirring now and then, until the shallots start to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and a generous pinch of salt. Stir and cook for another 1½ minutes or until the tomatoes are soft, turning the heat down a bit if necessary. Set the spicy mixture aside on a plate, taste for salt, and add more if required.

2. Wash and dry the frying pan. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons of oil and break the eggs into the pan while it is still cold, letting them lie side by side. Cover the pan and place over medium-low heat. Keep lifting the cover now and then to see if the eggs are done to your liking. I like my yolks soft and the whites completely set, which takes about 3 minutes to achieve. The yolks turn hard very quickly, so be vigilant.

3. Once ready, transfer the eggs to a serving dish and salt very lightly. Top with the spicy tomato mixture and serve immediately.

SIMPLE SCRAMBLED EGGS

KHICHRI UNDA

These are the simplest scrambled eggs, soothing and satisfying, but also spicy or they would not be Indian. I make them without thinking, just the way I have been doing for the last sixty years. As I break the first egg, I go on autopilot.

In Indian towns and villages scrambled eggs are served either with flatbreads, such as Plain Delhi Parathas, or with toasted or untoasted slices of bread. Pickles and chutneys may be offered on the side.

SERVES 2

4 eggs, broken into a bowl

Salt

2 teaspoons olive or peanut oil

2 scallions, cut into fine rings halfway up their green sections

2 tablespoons finely chopped tomatoes

1 hot fresh green chili (or more if you wish), very finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Beat the eggs until light and frothy, then sprinkle a generous pinch of salt over them.

2. Put the oil into a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the scallions. Stir a few times, then add the tomatoes, green chilies, and cilantro. Stir for a minute, then sprinkle a little salt and pepper over the top.

3. Pour in the beaten eggs and let the mixture flow to the edges. Begin to fold all the ingredients together, mixing them gently. When the eggs have set to the consistency you like, remove them quickly and serve.

PARSI SCRAMBLED EGGS

AKOORI

Parsis are Zoroastrians whose ancestors, fleeing religious persecution, originally came to India from Iran during the eighth century. They have kept their culture and cuisine alive all these years. Eggs feature prominently in their everyday foods, and akoori, or scrambled eggs, is a speciality that rises to the level of a main dish. It can be served at breakfast, lunch, or dinner, with slices of bread, toast, or Indian flatbreads. For lunch or a light dinner, a salad to follow is all you would need.

SERVES 2

4 eggs

2 tablespoons milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon butter, ghee (clarified butter), or olive oil

4 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped onions

⅛ teaspoon ground cumin

⅛ teaspoon ground turmeric

1–3 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

4 medium cherry tomatoes, each cut into 8 pieces

1. Break the eggs into a bowl. Add the milk, ⅛ teaspoon of salt, and some pepper. Beat until light and frothy, then set aside.

2. Put the butter, ghee, or oil into a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the onions and fry for a minute. Add the cumin, turmeric, chilies, ginger, and cilantro. Mix well and cook for another 2–3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and ¼ teaspoon of salt. Stir for a minute.

3. Pour in the egg mixture, stirring gently inward from the outside, forming large curds and cooking the eggs to a consistency that is just a little runnier than you like. Remove from the heat and continue to stir gently. The eggs will keep cooking. You are looking for soft, large curds. Serve immediately.

OMELET WITH PEAS AND GREEN PEPPERS

MATAR AUR SHIMLA MIRCH KA OMLATE

Here the omelet has a deliciously gingery stuffing of spicy peas and peppers. You can use just red peppers, or a mixture of green and red if you wish.

For serving suggestions, see previous recipe.

SERVES 2

4 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

Scant ¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

2 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped shallots

1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

1 fresh hot green chili, finely chopped

¾ cup peas, parboiled and drained if fresh, defrosted if frozen

4 tablespoons diced green pepper, seeds removed (the dice should be the same size as the peas)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

4 eggs

1. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the cumin seeds. Let them sizzle for 10–15 seconds, then add the shallots and fry for a minute. Add the ginger and chili and fry for 30 seconds. Stir in the peas and green peppers and cook for about 4 minutes, adding a light sprinkling of water if the pan gets too dry. Add ¼ teaspoon of salt and some black pepper. Taste for balance of seasonings and adjust as necessary. Stir in the cilantro and take off the heat.

2. Break the eggs into two separate bowls and beat until frothy. Salt and pepper them lightly.

3. Put 1 tablespoon of oil in a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. Pour in one lot of beaten eggs and stir gently to scramble lightly, while tilting the pan to let the wet mixture to flow to the edges. When slightly set, spread half the pea mixture over half the omelet. Fold the plain half over it. Using a wide spatula, turn the omelet over and press down on it lightly. If no liquid egg oozes out, it is done; otherwise, keep over low heat and turn a few more times. Make the second omelet in the same way and serve hot.

SPICY CAULIFLOWER OMELETS

GOBI KA OMLATE

Served with toast or crusty bread and a salad, these omelets make a lovely, light lunch or supper. You can also serve them the Indian way, with Plain Delhi Parathas and chutneys.

When grating the cauliflower, use the largest holes on the grater and grate just the flower part, not the stems. Any bigger pieces that break and fall in can be finely chopped by hand.

SERVES 2

About 4 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

¼ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

5–6 fresh curry leaves, finely chopped (optional)

3 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped shallots

A 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 cup finely grated cauliflower (see introduction)

1–2 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

½ teaspoon garam masala

¼ cup finely diced tomato

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 eggs

1. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds. As soon as they pop, a matter of seconds, add the cumin seeds. Let them sizzle for a second or two, then add the curry leaves, if using (take care, as these will splutter), the shallots, ginger, cauliflower, chilies, and garam masala. Stir and fry for 3–4 minutes, until the mixture is lightly browned. Add the tomatoes, cilantro, and black pepper. Stir and cook for a minute, then take off the heat.

2. Break the eggs into two separate bowls and beat until frothy. Salt and pepper them lightly.

3. Just before you wish to eat, add ¼ teaspoon of salt to the cauliflower mixture. Stir and taste. If you want more salt, add it now.

4. Put 1 tablespoon of oil in a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. Pour in one lot of beaten eggs and stir gently to scramble lightly, while tilting the pan to let the wet mixture flow to the edges. When slightly set, spread half the cauliflower mixture over half the omelet. Fold the plain half over it. Using a wide spatula, turn the omelet over and press down on it lightly. If no liquid egg oozes out, it is done. If not, keep over low heat and turn a few more times. Make the second omelet in the same way and serve hot.

SIMPLE HARD-BOILED EGG CURRY

KODIGUDDU MASALA VEPADU

This is the simplest of egg curries and is beloved in the Telengana region of Andhra Pradesh, where it is served with a khichri (see Rice with Moong Dal and Potatoes), tamarind rasam, and crisp popadams.

You can increase the number of eggs and the amount of seasoning. No real measurements are required here. You can easily improvise.

SERVES 2–4

From Shobhana and Padma Reddy

4 hard-boiled eggs

1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter) or unsalted butter

⅛ teaspoon ground turmeric

⅛–¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

⅛ teaspoon chili powder, or to taste

1. Peel the eggs, then cut 4–5 long slits in the whites going from somewhere near the top to somewhere near the bottom but not meeting.

2. Put the ghee or butter in a small frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the turmeric, salt, pepper, and chili powder. Stir together, then add the eggs and roll them around for about a minute, or until they are golden. Remove the pan from the heat and serve.

EGGS IN A MUSTARD SAUCE

ANGREZI MUSTARD WALAY UNDAY

This recipe has been inspired by all the wonderful Bengali mustard sauces that I have enjoyed over the decades. For a meal, serve it with rice and other vegetables, such as spinach or peas. For breakfast, have it with slices of fresh Italian or French bread to soak up the good juices. Remember, as the sauce cooks, it loses most of its pungency.

SERVES 2

3 tablespoons English mustard powder

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon nice red chili powder

1 fresh hot green chili, finely chopped

1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

Salt

3 tablespoons tomato purée

2 teaspoons olive or peanut oil

Generous pinch of whole mustard seeds

Generous pinch of whole cumin seeds

Generous pinch of whole nigella seeds (kalonji)

Generous pinch of whole fennel seeds

4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

1. Combine the mustard powder, turmeric, chili powder, green chilies, ginger, ½ teaspoon of salt, and the tomato purée in a bowl. Slowly add 1½ cups water, mixing well and breaking up any lumps as you do so. Set aside.

2. Put the oil in a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. Meanwhile, put all the seeds in a small bowl. When the oil is hot, add the seeds. When the mustard seeds start to pop, a matter of seconds, pour in the mustard sauce and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 2–3 minutes.

3. Arrange all the egg halves in the sauce, yolk side up, and spoon the sauce over them until they heat up. Transfer carefully to a serving dish, again with yolks facing up. Pour the sauce over them and serve immediately.

COORG-STYLE EGG CURRY WITH POTATOES

MUTTA CURRY

This is an excellent curry to serve at brunch or lunch with some plain rice. Some little relishes and chutneys would complete the meal.

SERVES 4

From Mynah Pemmaiah

4 small red potatoes (about 6 oz in all), boiled and left to cool

2 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

5–6 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

1 onion (5 oz), peeled and chopped

4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

1 fresh hot green chili or more, finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon nice red chili powder

2 tomatoes (about 1 cup in all), peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 cup coconut milk, from a well-shaken can

4–8 eggs, as desired, hard-boiled and peeled

1. When the potatoes are cool, peel and quarter them. You need ¾ inch pieces. Set aside.

2. Put the oil in a medium wide pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds. As soon as they pop, a matter of seconds, add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle for 10 seconds. Add the curry leaves (take care, as these will splutter) and, a few seconds later, the onions. Stir and fry for 5–6 minutes or until the onions are lightly browned. Add the garlic and green chilies and stir for 2 minutes. Stir in the coriander, ground cumin, and chili powder. Now add the tomatoes, salt, and 1½ cups water. Bring to a simmer, then cover and simmer very gently for 20 minutes.

3. Add the coconut milk, potatoes, and eggs to the sauce. Bring to a simmer, then cook, uncovered, on very low heat, for 3–4 minutes, stirring now and then. If the sauce seems too thick, add a few tablespoons of water.

EGGS IN A HYDERABADI TOMATO SAUCE

TOMATO KUT

Hyderabadi cuisine developed in the courts of the rulers of Hyderabad and in the homes of the mostly Muslim aristocratic families who followed Moghul generals sent from the Delhi imperial Moghul court to capture and then rule the southern Hyderabad area.

In the heat of a new climate zone, the northern Moghul cuisine began taking on southern accents. Wheat eaters became rice eaters without quite giving up their naans and kulchas and other baked goodies. The biggest changes were in the seasonings. Mustard seeds and curry leaves, popular in the south but unheard of in northern Muslim cuisine, became constants, as did tamarind. In fact, the love affair with sour foods, which aid digestion in hot climates, began early and has never ended. Tamarind, tomatoes, green mangoes, and limes are used with the same frequency as they are by the original inhabitants. The famous Hyderabadi “Sour” Dal is really not all that different from the local sambar (South Indian Dal with Vegetables), and it too is eaten with rice.

This tomato kut is another sour dish served with rice. It is normally eaten at lunch or dinner, but I frequently serve it for brunch. It is quickly devoured!

I have allowed 1½ eggs per person, but there is enough sauce to increase the total to 8 eggs if you wish.

SERVES 4

From Sanjeeda Shareef

1. Hard-boil the eggs. Peel them under cold running water and set them aside.

2. Put a small cast-iron frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the chickpea flour and stir a few times until it turns a shade darker. Transfer it to a medium bowl and leave to cool.

3. When the flour is cold, slowly add 6 tablespoons of water, stirring until you have a thick paste with no lumps. Now add the tomato puree, the tamarind concentrate, 1½ teaspoons salt, and 2½ cups water. Mix and set aside.

4. Put the 2 tablespoons of oil into a medium, preferably nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the crushed curry leaves (take care, as these will splutter), followed by the ginger and garlic. Stir a few times, turn the heat to low, and add the ground cumin, chili powder, and turmeric. Stir a few times, then add the tomato puree mixture. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring now and then. Check the salt. You might need to add another ¼ teaspoon or so.

5. To make the final tarka, put a small frying pan on medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of oil. When it is very hot, put in the mustard seeds. As soon as they pop, a matter of seconds, add the cumin seeds and red chilies. When the red chilies darken, put in the garlic pieces. Let the garlic brown lightly. Throw in the curry leaves (take care, as these will splutter) and quickly empty the contents of the pan evenly over the sauce. Stir well.

6. To serve, cut the eggs into halves lengthwise. Find a shallow serving dish that can fit the halves in a single layer. Arrange the eggs, yolk up, in the dish. Pour the sauce over them.

YOGURT RICE

CURD RICE

This is perhaps the simplest version of one of South India’s most beloved dishes, usually offered at the end of the meal to soothe the fieriness of the foods eaten just preceding it. It is also offered in southern temples as holy, blessed food. Known variously as “daddojanam” (Andhra Pradesh), “thayyir saadam” (Tamil Nadu), “mosaranna” (Karnataka), and “curd rice” (by English speakers), it is typically eaten at the end of the meal with just pickles and chutneys, but it may be served with the meal as well, in individual bowls, like a salad. In fact, diced or grated cucumbers, grated carrots, diced grapes, and pomegranate seeds are often added to it.

You will find that the texture is perfect when the curd rice is initially made. If it sits for a few hours, it will thicken, so add more cold milk to thin it out. Grated cucumbers also help to keep it thinned out.

You can use 1–3 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped, instead of the dry red chilies, adding them at the same time as the ginger. Or you can add both!

SERVES 4–8

From Malathi Srinivasan

1 cup jasmine rice

2 cups plain yogurt

½ cup milk

2 teaspoons olive or peanut oil

2 tablespoons raw cashews, split in half lengthwise

2 teaspoons chana dal

1 teaspoon urad dal or yellow split peas

1 teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

2–3 dried hot red chilies, broken in half

6–8 fresh curry leaves, chopped

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

A 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut into minute dice

1–3 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped (optional)

2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Combine the rice and 2½ cups water in a small, heavy-based pan. Bring to a boil, then cover tightly and cook over very low heat for 25 minutes.

2. Empty all the rice into a large, wide bowl and stir gently to cool it. Stir in the yogurt, then mix in ½ cup of the milk.

3. Put the oil in a small pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the cashews. Stir them around until they become golden, then remove them with a slotted spoon. Add the chana dal. As soon as it starts to color, add the urad dal and, a few seconds later, the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and red chilies. As soon as the mustard seeds pop, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves, then empty the contents of this pan over the rice mixture. Add the salt, ginger, green chilies (if using), and cilantro. Stir well and taste for balance of seasonings. Garnish with the cashews just before serving. (If not serving straight away, see introduction.)

Spice box

Spice box

FRESH INDIAN CHEESE COOKED LIKE SCRAMBLED EGGS

PANEER KI BHURJI

It is best if this dish is cooked just before it is served, and it helps to prepare all the ingredients in advance. If you wish to cook it fully ahead of time, cover the finished dish until needed. Then, just before you eat, add a little water, cover again, and set the pan on low heat. Stir now and then until it is hot.

The original recipe was made without peas, and you can omit them if you wish.

In India, this bhurji is eaten all over the Punjab, from village homes to roadside truck stops. It is generally served with slices of bread or toast, or any plain flatbread. Pickles, chutneys, and relishes are often served on the side.

SERVES 2

From Dell’ Art Inde and Sarita Malhotra

1 tablespoon olive or peanut oil

5 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped onion (about half a medium onion)

Generous pinch of ground turmeric

1 fresh hot green chili, finely chopped

1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

4 medium cherry tomatoes, each cut into 8 pieces

7 oz fresh Indian cheese (paneer), crumbled into tiny pieces

3 tablespoons fresh cooked peas or defrosted frozen peas

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Put the oil in a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the onions and fry for a minute. Add the turmeric and green chilies. Stir and fry for another 2–3 minutes or until the onions have softened a bit. Add the ginger and stir a few times. Now add the tomatoes and stir for another minute.

2. Add the paneer, peas, and salt and cook over medium-low heat, stirring for 2–3 minutes. Everything should be heated through and the seasonings well mixed. Add the black pepper and fresh cilantro and stir again. Taste for balance of flavors.

STIR-FRIED FRESH INDIAN CHEESE WITH GREEN PEPPERS

CHILI PANEER

Chili paneer is a Chinese-inspired Indian dish that has gained much favor over the past twenty years. It is generally made very hot and can be eaten as a snack or with a meal. Serve it with rice or Indian flatbreads.

You might need to add a little water when reheating.

SERVES 4–5

14 oz fresh Indian cheese (paneer), cut into ¾ inch squares

1 tablespoon flour

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

1 large green pepper, seeded and cut into ¾ inch squares

¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

1 onion (5 oz), peeled and chopped

2 teaspoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

3–4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

1 fresh hot green chili, finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon nice red chili powder

½ cup tomato puree

1½ tablespoons soy sauce

½ teaspoon sugar

2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Put all the paneer pieces in a bowl. Sprinkle with the flour, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and some black pepper and toss to mix.

2. Put the oil in a nonstick wok, karhai, or frying pan and set over medium heat. Add all the paneer in a single layer and fry until golden on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl.

3. Add the green pepper pieces to the oil left in the pan and stir-fry for about a minute. Sprinkle very lightly with salt, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to the same bowl as the cheese.

4. Keep the oil left in the pan over medium heat and add the cumin seeds. Let them sizzle for 10 seconds, then add the onions. Stir-fry for 3–4 minutes or until they look glazed. Add the ginger, garlic, and green chilies. Stir-fry for a minute, then add the coriander, ground cumin, and chili powder. Stir for a minute. Add the tomato puree, soy sauce, sugar, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and ½ cup water. Stir and bring to a simmer.

5. Fold in the paneer and green peppers and cook gently, stirring now and then, until the paneer is heated through. Sprinkle the fresh cilantro over the top when serving. (You will need to add 4–5 tablespoons of water if the dish needs reheating.)

Sri Narasimha sign in Andhra Pradesh

Sri Narasimha sign in Andhra Pradesh

FRESH INDIAN CHEESE WITH PEAS AND MUSHROOMS

PANEER, MATAR AUR KHUMBI

This rich and satisfying dish is best eaten with Indian flatbreads, but you can serve it with rice if you prefer. A dal and some relishes may be served on the side.

SERVES 4

8 whole raw cashews

4 tablespoons tomato puree

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

Generous pinch of ground cloves

Generous pinch of ground cinnamon

Generous pinch of ground cardamom

2 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

Generous pinch of ground asafetida

½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

7 medium mushrooms (about 4 oz in all), quartered lengthwise

1 cup fresh cooked peas or defrosted frozen peas

1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

7 oz fresh Indian cheese (paneer), cut into ¾ inch cubes

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1. Put the cashews, tomato puree, and 4 tablespoons of water into a blender and add the first six ground herbs and spices in the order listed. Blend until smooth, then pour into a bowl. Rinse the blender with ½ cup water and pour that into the bowl as well.

2. Put the oil into a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the asafetida and cumin seeds. Let the seeds sizzle for 10 seconds, then add the mushrooms. Stir-fry them for a minute or until they appear glossy. Add the peas and ginger and stir for a minute. Add the cheese cubes and the salt, stir for 2 minutes, then add the tomato mixture. Stir and bring to a simmer, then heat gently for about 3 minutes, until everything is warmed through and well mixed. Gently stir in the cream and serve.

FRESH INDIAN CHEESE IN A BUTTER-TOMATO SAUCE

PANEER MAKHANI

This is the vegetarian version of chicken in a butter-tomato sauce, for which a tandoor-roasted bird is cut up and enfolded in a rich, creamy sauce. This vegetarian incarnation is much loved and generally eaten with Indian flatbreads, especially naans. There is no recipe for naans in this book, but you can buy them from grocers or Indian restaurants. Serve a chickpea dish or the Mixed Dal, Marwari-Style on the side, along with a chutney or relish.

SERVES 4–6

1 cup tomato puree

1 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 teaspoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon sugar

1 fresh hot green chili, finely chopped

1¼ teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon nice red chili powder

1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin seeds (see this page)

1 tablespoon dried fenugreek leaves (kasuri methi), crumbled (optional)

14 oz fresh Indian cheese (paneer), cut into ¾ inch squares

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive or peanut oil

¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Combine the tomato puree, cream, ginger, garam masala, lemon juice, sugar, green chilies, 1 teaspoon of the salt, chili powder, ground roasted cumin, and dried fenugreek leaves (if using) in a bowl. Stir thoroughly and set aside.

2. Put the cubed cheese into another bowl. Add ¼ teaspoon of salt and some black pepper. Toss well to mix.

3. Put the butter, oil, and cumin seeds in a medium nonstick pan and set over medium heat. Put all the cheese cubes in the pan in a single layer and brown them very lightly on at least two sides. Pour the tomato sauce over the top and stir to mix. Bring to a simmer, then heat very gently for 4–5 minutes, stirring with a light hand as you do so. Sprinkle the fresh cilantro over the top before serving.

SPINACH WITH FRESH INDIAN CHEESE

SAAG PANEER

There are dozens of recipes for saag paneer in the Punjab, where dairy products are a mainstay of the diet and where this dish originated. Here is one of the simplest. It is generally served with Indian flatbreads and a dal.

The size of the paneer cubes you cut will depend partly on the size of the block you buy.

SERVES 4–5

10 oz fresh spinach, well washed and lightly drained

1 good-sized tomato (about 6 oz), chopped

2 generous handfuls of fresh cilantro leaves

1–2 fresh hot green chilies, chopped

2 tablespoons dried fenugreek leaves (kasuri methi), crushed between your palms or fingers into a powder

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

1 medium onion (5 oz), peeled and finely chopped

1 tablespoon peeled and very finely grated fresh ginger

2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

¼–¾ teaspoon chili powder

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

14 oz fresh Indian cheese (paneer), cut into ¾ inch cubes

1. Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil and drop all the spinach into it. As soon as it wilts, drain in a colander and run cold water over it. Set aside to drain for another 5 minutes. Do not try to squeeze any more water out of it.

2. Put the tomatoes, spinach, fresh cilantro, green chilies, and dried fenugreek leaves into a blender in the order listed and blend until smooth. Set aside.

3. Pour the oil into a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the onions and fry for 7–8 minutes or until soft and golden. Add the ginger and garlic and continue to stir-fry for another 2–3 minutes. The onions should pick up a little color. Stir in the chili powder, ground coriander, cumin, and turmeric. Now pour in the mixture from the blender, adding the salt, cheese, and ½ cup water. Stir and bring to a simmer, then cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, stirring gently now and then.