GRAINS:

RICE, SEMOLINA, AND QUINOA

PLAIN BASMATI RICE

SAADAY BASMATI CHAWAL

Here is the easiest way for you to cook basmati rice. Salt is generally not added, as the rice is meant to be eaten with well-seasoned food.

SERVES 4

2 cups of basmati rice

1. Wash the rice in several changes of water. Drain and put in a bowl. Cover generously with water and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Drain thoroughly.

2. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

3. Bring 2¾ cups water to a boil in a heavy ovenproof pan with a tight-fitting lid. Add the rice, stir, and bring back to a boil. Cover tightly (using a layer of foil between the lid and the pan and crinkling the edges, if needed, to get a tight seal) and place in the oven for 30 minutes. Remove and let the rice sit, undisturbed, for 10 minutes. Fluff up the grains with a fork and serve.

PLAIN JASMINE RICE

SAADI JASMINE RICE

SERVES 4–5

1½ cups jasmine rice

Put 2¼ cups water in a pan and bring to a boil. Add the rice, stir, and bring back to a boil. Cover tightly and cook over very low heat for 25 minutes. Leave covered until you are ready to eat.

RICE WITH DILL AND PEAS

SOOA AUR MATAR KI TAHIRI

I make this rice dish quite frequently when I have guests for dinner (and I so enjoy eating it the next day if any is left). It is aromatic and satisfyingly delicious. I like to serve it with Chana Dal with Spinach and Tomato and Carrot Raita. For a party, I add Green Beans with Potatoes.

SERVES 4–6

2 cups basmati rice

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

1 medium onion, peeled and cut into fine half rings

1 teaspoon garam masala

¾ cup well-packed fresh dill, feathery leaves and fine stems only, finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup fresh or frozen peas, cooked and drained

1. Wash the rice in several changes of water. Drain and put in a bowl. Cover generously with water and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Drain and leave in a strainer set over a bowl.

2. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

3. Put the oil in a heavy ovenproof pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onions and cook for 7–8 minutes or until reddish brown. Add the rice, garam masala, dill, and salt and reduce the heat to medium. Stir very gently to mix, lifting the rice from the bottom and turning it over as you would if mixing a soufflé. The tender rice grains break easily at this stage. When well mixed, pour in 2¾ cups water and bring to a boil.

4. Cover tightly with foil and a lid and put in the oven for 25 minutes. Quickly tip the drained peas on top of the rice, re-cover with the foil and the lid, and return the pan to the oven for another 5 minutes.

5. Set the pan of rice aside and leave undisturbed for 10 minutes. Fluff up the grains with a fork and serve. If you wish to hold the rice for an hour, cover the pan with heavy towels.

RICE WITH MOONG DAL AND POTATOES

KHILI KHICHRI

This dish is both comforting and delicious. Sometimes I add tiny onions, browned slowly in a little oil, to the rice at about the same time as I add the water. This dish can be served with eggplant, greens, dals, and all manner of relishes. You could also have it by itself with a salad.

SERVES 4–6

¼ cup moong dal (skinned and split mung beans)

2 cups basmati rice

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil or ghee (clarified butter)

½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

1 medium waxy potato, peeled and cut into ½ inch dice (red potatoes work well)

1 teaspoon peeled and very finely diced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon nice red chili powder

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1. Wash the dal in several changes of water, then leave to soak for 3 hours. Drain.

2. Wash the rice in several changes of water and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Drain.

3. Put the oil or ghee in a heavy pan with a tight-fitting lid and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the cumin seeds and, 10 seconds later, the potatoes. Stir and fry until the potatoes are lightly browned. Add the ginger and stir a few times, then reduce the heat to medium. Now add the rice, dal, garam masala, coriander, salt, chili powder, and turmeric. Sauté gently for 2–3 minutes, always lifting the rice from the bottom to avoid breaking the grains.

4. Add 2¾ cups water and bring to a boil. Cover tightly and cook over very low heat for 25 minutes.

SPICED HYDERABADI RICE

BAGHARE CHAVAL

A lovely, well-flavored rice dish, this is what is served with Hyderabad’s famous “dalcha,” a dish of toovar dal, squash, and meat. The vegetarian version, Chana Dal with Yellow Squash, Chayote, or Doodhi. For more on Hyderabadi Muslim food, see the introduction to Tomato Kut on this page.

This dish is usually made with basmati rice for special occasions, but with the more ordinary sona masoori, a smaller-grained rice, for everyday meals. Here I have made it with basmati rice. If you wish to use the sona masoori rice, follow this recipe but increase the cooking water to 3 cups.

SERVES 4–6

From Sanjeeda Shareef

2 cups basmati rice

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

4 tablespoons peeled and finely sliced shallots

A 2-inch cinnamon stick

4 cloves

4 cardamom pods

¼ teaspoon black cumin seeds (use ordinary cumin as a substitute)

1 large clove garlic, peeled and crushed

1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

1–2 fresh hot green chilies, slit in half lengthwise

1. Wash the rice in several changes of water. Drain and put in a bowl. Cover generously with water and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Drain and leave in a strainer set over a bowl.

2. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

3. Put the oil in a heavy ovenproof pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the shallots, cinnamon stick, cloves, cardamom pods, and cumin seeds. Stir as you let the shallots turn slightly brown. Add the garlic and ginger and stir for about a minute or until golden. Pour in 2¾ cups water and bring to a boil. Add the rice, salt, and green chilies. Stir and bring to a boil, then cover tightly with foil and a lid.

4. Put the pan in the oven for 30 minutes. Remove and let the rice sit undisturbed for 10 minutes. Fluff up the grains with a fork and serve.

LEMON RICE

NIMMAKAYA PULIHORA

A light, summery rice dish that can be served with vegetables, dal, and relishes, and also by itself as a snack. This one most resembles Chinese stir-fried rice, except that all the ingredients are Indian.

SERVES 4

Put the oil in a nonstick medium frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds. As soon as they pop, a matter of seconds, add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle for a few seconds. Stir in the peanuts and chana dal, and as soon as the nuts begin to take on a golden color, add the curry leaves (take care, as these will splutter), ginger, and green chilies. Stir a few times and turn the heat to low. Add the turmeric and salt, stir once, then add all the cooked rice, lemon rind, and lemon juice. Break up all the rice lumps with the back of a wooden spoon and mix gently but thoroughly as you reheat the mixture. Serve hot.

TOMATO RICE

THAKKALI SADAM OR TOMATO ANNAM

Rice with lime or lemon, rice with tamarind, rice with yogurt, and rice with tomatoes are all very popular throughout South India. These dishes have some things in common. Plain, unseasoned rice is cooked ahead of the meal. It is then spread out in a thali (metal platter) and seasoned, sauced, and well mixed. The sauce is generally sour and spicy. Because the temperature in the south is typically balmy, there is little danger of the rice getting icy cold, as there is in northern India. These mixed rices are always served at room temperature.

So what do we, who live in the West, do in our colder climes? I have worked out my own way of serving these dishes. I make my rice so it is ready just before we eat. I make my sauce ahead of time too, if possible. As we are getting ready to eat, I heat up the sauce, pour it over the rice in its pan, and mix it in. This way the rice may not be hot but it is still warm.

Serve at mealtimes with a dal, vegetables, and relishes. See the introduction to Cabbage Fritters to get a sense of a meal it could be served with.

SERVES 4

1½ tablespoons olive or peanut oil

8 raw cashews, split lengthwise into their natural halves

1 tablespoon raw peanuts

Generous pinch of ground asafetida

1 teaspoon urad dal

½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

1 teaspoon peeled and very finely chopped fresh ginger

6–7 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

¾ cup tomato puree

2 or more fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¾ teaspoon salt, or more as needed

1 recipe Plain Jasmine Rice

Based on a recipe from a mess in Rajahmundry, Andhra Pradesh

1. Put the oil in a small pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the cashews and peanuts. Stir and fry them until they are golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and spread them out on a paper towel to drain.

2. Add the asafetida to the empty pan, and a second later add the dal. As soon as the dal starts to take on color, add the mustard seeds. As soon as the seeds pop, a matter of seconds, add the ginger and then the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter). Stir once, then pour in the tomato puree and 1½ cups water. Add the chilies, turmeric, salt, and nuts. Stir and bring to a simmer, then cover and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

3. Your rice should be ready around the same time as you are getting ready to eat. Heat up the sauce and pour it over the rice, which should still be in its pan. Mix gently but thoroughly, then serve.

BERRY PILAF

BERRY PULAV

The restaurant where this pilaf is served has been in existence since 1923. It is a Bombay landmark. The original owner, a Zoroastrian named Rashid Kohinoor, came from Iran and started out serving Iranian dishes. His son, Boman, married a Parsi, an Indian Zoroastrian, and she added many local Parsi dishes to the menu. A third generation heads the kitchen today.

It was Boman, ninety years old, who took us to our seats and offered us a fresh lime soda on a very hot day. “As they say, it will ‘bit the hit’ [beat the heat]”—one Indian with an accent mocking other Indians with worse accents. Indians do that all the time. He laughed boisterously. He joked around and was full of stories. When I asked him for the berry pilaf recipe, he laughed again and told us that the British ambassador (he probably meant the American ambassador) once asked him for the same recipe and he answered, “If you give me the recipe for Coca-Cola, I will hand over the recipe for berry pilaf.” I never did get the Persian-Indian recipe from him, so I have created my own version, and without the chicken meatballs they add to it. At the restaurant this pilaf, called Chicken Berry Pulav, is served with meats, but I have left those out. I do not recommend this restaurant to vegetarians. Just use this recipe to make my aromatic yellow and white vegetarian version of their great signature dish.

The berry used here is the tiny Iranian barberry or zareshk, sold by Indian and Persian grocers. If you cannot find it, use dried cranberries. The final flavors are sweet and sour. As there is expensive saffron in it as well, I often make this pilaf for a dinner party. I find that it goes very well with eggplant, spinach, and paneer dishes.

SERVES 4–6

From the Britannia and Company Restaurant in Bombay

2 cups best-quality basmati rice from India

1 teaspoon saffron threads

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons very hot milk

About ½ cup dried barberries or dried cranberries

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

1 large onion, peeled and cut in half lengthwise, then into fine half rings

1½ tablespoons salt

5 cardamom pods

2½ inch cinnamon stick

1 bay leaf

3 cloves

3 tablespoons melted butter

1. Wash the rice in several changes of water. Put in a bowl, cover generously with water, and set aside to soak for 3 hours.

2. Combine the saffron and 1 tablespoon of the sugar in a mortar and pound together so you have a powder. Put in a small bowl. Add the hot milk, stir, then set aside for 3 hours.

3. Rinse the berries a few times and leave to soak for 20 minutes. Drain and pat dry.

4. Put the oil in a medium frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onions and cook for 5 minutes or until they start to brown. Reduce the heat to medium low and continue cooking until they are reddish brown. Add the drained berries and the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Stir once or twice, then remove from the heat.

5. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

6. Bring about 10 cups of water to a rolling boil. Add the salt, cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, bay leaf, and cloves. Stir once and add the rice. Let it cook in the boiling water for about 5½ minutes or until it is three-quarters cooked but still has a thin, hard core. Drain in a colander.

7. Working quickly now, spread 1 tablespoon of the melted butter in a medium ovenproof pan. Spread half the rice over it. Spread another tablespoon of the butter, plus half the saffron mixture and half the onion-berry mixture and some of its oil on top of the rice. Spread the remaining rice on top of the first layer. Pour the remaining tablespoon of butter over it, followed by the remaining saffron mixture and onion-berry mixture. Cover tightly with foil and a lid and bake in the oven for 30 minutes.

8. Remove and let the pan sit undisturbed for 10 minutes. Toss the rice gently to mix before serving.

RICE WITH EGGPLANT

VANGI BHAAT

This is a great dish for entertaining. The recipe can easily be doubled, if needed. Add a dal, a green vegetable, chutneys, and a yogurt relish. When this dish is made in western India, the eggplants tend to be quite spicy. They mellow a bit when mixed with the plain rice. You can make your own decision about the spiciness, adding as much chili powder as you like.

If you cannot find an eggplant of the weight you want, use two smaller or narrower ones, or use part of a large one. The usable pieces should weigh about 12 oz.

SERVES 4

1 recipe Plain Jasmine Rice, but add 1 teaspoon salt to the cooking water

1 medium eggplant (12 oz), cut into 1½ × 2 inch chunks

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

½ teaspoon urad dal

A 2-inch cinnamon stick

½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

2 dried hot red chilies

6–8 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

1 medium onion (5½ oz), cut into ½ inch dice

¾–1 teaspoon salt (start with the smaller amount)

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon nice red chili powder, or to taste

1 tablespoon lemon juice

4 tablespoons tomato puree

2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. While the rice is cooking, soak the eggplant chunks in a large bowl of water.

2. Put the oil in a medium nonstick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the urad dal and cinnamon stick. Stir until the dal starts to take on color, a few seconds. Add the mustard seeds and red chilies. Stir until the seeds pop and the chilies darken, a few seconds. Quickly add the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter), followed immediately by the onions. Stir and fry for 1 minute.

3. Drain the eggplant and add the chunks to the pan along with the salt. Stir and fry for about 10 minutes or until the pieces look slightly glazed. Turn the heat to low and sprinkle in the ground coriander, cumin, turmeric, and chili powder. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

4. Add the lemon juice, tomato puree, and about ½ cup water. Stir and bring to a simmer, then cover and cook on very low heat for 20 minutes, stirring gently from the bottom now and then. Check the salt, adding more if needed.

5. Just before serving, spread the hot rice on a large, warmed platter, breaking up any lumps with the back of a spoon. Empty the eggplant and its juices over the top and mix gently, being careful not to break the eggplant chunks. Sprinkle the fresh cilantro over the top.

VEGETABLE BIRYANI WITH CAULIFLOWER, CARROTS, AND PEAS

GOBI, GAJAR AUR MATAR KI BIRYANI

Biryanis are generally complicated affairs: you partially cook the rice, you partially cook the vegetables, you brown onions by themselves, and then you layer the three in a pan and let them bake together. In my effort to simplify the dish for this book, what I have done is to cook the rice by itself, then quickly stir-fry the vegetables with onions, and then put everything together in a large warmed platter or serving bowl. Biryanis are usually served with a yogurt relish and a salad, but you could add a dal, such as the Black-eyed Peas with Cilantro and Green Chilies.

I like to remove the large spices, such as the bay leaf, cardamom pods, cloves, and cinnamon, from the rice before mixing it with the vegetables. (No one does this in India, as we know they are not meant for eating. We just gently push them aside on the plate.)

Here is my timetable for making the dish: I first wash the rice and set it to soak. While it is soaking, I chop up everything needed to make the vegetables. Then I cook the rice. While it is in the oven, I cook the vegetables. If I am eating immediately, I warm up a large serving bowl and empty the rice into it, gently breaking up any lumps. I empty the vegetables on top of it and mix gently but thoroughly. If I am eating much later, I wrap the pan of rice in a heavy towel and set it aside. It will stay hot for 2 hours. If it has cooled off too much, I reheat it in the oven for 20 minutes or so. The vegetables are left in the pan and they warm up easily over low heat. Then I mix the two together.

SERVES 4–6

2 cups of basmati rice

2 tablespoons olive or peanut oil or ghee (clarified butter), or a combination of the two

A 2-inch cinnamon stick

1–2 bay leaves

4–5 cloves

4–5 cardamom pods

¼ teaspoon whole black cumin seeds (use ordinary cumin seeds if you do not have them)

12 cashews, split in half lengthwise

2 tablespoons golden raisins

½ medium onion, peeled and cut into fine half rings

1½ teaspoons salt

FOR THE VEGETABLES

2 tablespoons olive or peanut oil or ghee (clarified butter), or a combination of the two

¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

½ medium onion, peeled and cut into fine half rings

2 teaspoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

2 cups small cauliflower florets, about ½ inch wide and 1 inch long, well washed and drained

1 medium carrot, peeled and diced to the size of peas

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼–½ teaspoon nice red chili powder

1 cup cooked fresh peas or defrosted frozen peas

2–4 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

¾ teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon garam masala

1 tablespoon lime or lemon juice

1. Wash the rice in several changes of water. Place the rice in a bowl, cover generously with water, and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Drain.

2. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

3. Put the oil or ghee for the rice in a heavy ovenproof pan with a well-fitting lid and set over medium heat. When hot, add the cinnamon stick, bay leaves, cloves, cardamom pods, and cumin seeds. Stir for a few seconds, then add the cashews. As soon as they are golden, add the raisins. They will plump up immediately. Quickly add the onions and fry until reddish. Add the drained rice, 2¾ cups water and the salt. Stir and bring to a boil, then cover tightly with foil and a lid. Place in the oven for 25 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, make the vegetables. Put the oil into a medium, preferably nonstick frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle for a few seconds. Add the onions, ginger, cauliflower, carrots, turmeric, and chili powder. Stir gently for about 3–4 minutes, still over medium-high heat, until the onions and cauliflower are lightly browned.

5. Reduce the heat to medium low and add the peas, green chilies, salt, black pepper, garam masala, and lime juice. Stir gently and cook for another 3–5 minutes or until the vegetables are just done.

6. Take the rice out of the oven when it is ready and let it sit for 10 minutes. After that, empty it into a warmed bowl and break up any lumps without breaking the grains. Add all the ingredients from the frying pan and mix gently but thoroughly. Serve immediately.

A NOTE ON UPMA, POHA, AND SOOJI

UPMA The Western world has no real equivalent for upma. It is somewhat like a risotto, except that it is not as dense and heavy, and not so wet and molten either. It is perhaps more like Chinese fried rice, except that it is a little wet and tends to collect in small clumps. Upma is, in the last analysis, deliciously itself. It is light and easy to prepare and often thrown together quickly as breakfast, a light lunch, or a snack. It tends to be spicy—very spicy if you like it that way. The basic ingredient is always a grain. Vegetables and spices are added to it for nutrition and flavoring.

The grains that are most commonly used to make upma are sooji and poha, discussed below. Both are ingredients worth having in your pantry on a continuous basis, as they can help you to turn out extraordinarily tasty, nutritious meals very quickly. Upmas can also be made with bread (I have one made with whole-grain bread in this book) and quinoa (you will find that here as well).

FLATTENED RICE (POHA) A friend of mine in Bombay, Vikram Doctor, who has a vast knowledge of Indian food, was wondering with me why it was that other countries with ancient histories of rice culture do not have any version of flattened rice. Some have puffed rice, another “instant” version suitable for a quick meal, but no one, to my knowledge, has the much-loved Indian poha.

Also called “phov,” “cheewra,” “chivra,” “chuda,” and “aval,” it is used with great frequency in the rice-growing regions of eastern, western, and southern India as a breakfast and snack food. Travelers in ancient times carried a bag of it, reconstituting it with water whenever they were hungry, and perhaps accompanying it with a chutney or pickle, or soaking it in milk, like a cereal.

Today large quantities of poha are made in factories, but if you go to Indian villages with rice fields, you can still see poha being made the old-fashioned way. Actually, villages seem to have their own individual techniques. In one tribal village in Jharkhand (south of Bihar), the rice grains are put into vats with a little water for steaming/parboiling. This ancient process pushes the goodness of the hull and husk right into the heart of each grain. Then the grains are roasted rather casually, in a broken section of a rounded terracotta pot set on top of a small wood fire. The grains then go into a large mortar, and two women holding a long pole-like pestle pound rhythmically to flatten it. After the rice is flattened and the husk and hull are winnowed away, what you have is poha. Here it is not cooked any further, but eaten as it is with milk and sweetened with jaggery, a form of raw lump sugar. Further north it is eaten with sweetened yogurt, or crisped up and eaten at breakfast with Peas and Potatoes Cooked in a Bihari Style.

The coastal Konkan region of western India produces a very nutritious red rice that is partially milled and also made into poha. It is put into hot milky tea in the mornings to give extra energy to workers going to the fields and to children going to school.

Poha is used in many religious ceremonies as well. One requirement in Baroda (Gujarat) is that it be made fresh just before it can be put into poha kheer, a pudding served as holy food at the Ram Temple after the Ram Navami prayers to celebrate Ram’s birthday. In Baroda the rice grains are soaked for three days, drained thoroughly, roasted in a large cast-iron karhai (wok), pounded to the desired thickness in a mortar, then winnowed and dried.

But the poha dishes that I like best and crave constantly are the western and southern Indian ones that require the poha to be partly reconstituted and stir-fried quickly with spices and vegetables to make the wonderful risotto-like dish called upma. It cooks very easily and everyone loves it. Friendly ingredients for mixing with it include onions, potatoes, corn, tomatoes, cauliflower, peas, and mung bean sprouts. Poha may also be added to puddings and yogurt dishes. It is always added to that wonderful mélange of spicy nuts and seeds sold as Bombay Mix. Poha is light, nutritious, and very digestible, a good version of rice to know about and to have in your pantry.

In India, three thicknesses of poha are generally available, but I have used only what is sold as “thick” poha. It needs to be rinsed and soaked. (Each recipe in this book gives the necessary instructions.)

For reheating the poha upmas in this section, sprinkle generously with water and place over very low heat. Toss gently, using a flat spatula to fold the poha over from the bottom, rather like you might mix a soufflé, so the delicate grains do not get broken.

I had quite a revelatory experience recently. My husband and I were going to stay with a friend on an island off the coast of Maine. Since I seem to cook wherever I go and not much is available in the small island market, I was taking with me, among other things, all the ingredients to make a poha dish. It would be quick and easy. As I unpacked the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, chilies, potatoes, limes, and onions, I realized that I had left the poha behind. It had taken us nine hours to drive up there, plus a boat ride, so there was no going back. I thought of substitutes—semolina, bulgar, farina—nothing was available. My friends did have quinoa, though, and it worked so well that I have developed a recipe for it—cooked in the poha upma style!

SOOJI (INDIAN SEMOLINA) Sooji is not really a true semolina. Real semolina, the kind used for Italian pasta, is a granular flour made from hard durum wheat. Indian sooji is made from soft wheat, using the same method that is used for making true semolina. However, many Indian stores call it semolina, so do not let yourself get confused.

Buy from an Indian grocer and ask for “sooji/farina.” Don’t get the fine grind, if that is what the label says. Also, do not get roasted semolina, as you should roast it yourself (the process takes just a few minutes). A packet simply labeled “sooji” will be fine. You can tell your grocer that you want it to make upma (the u is pronounced like the “ou” in “could”). In South India, sooji is called “rava,” which just means any granular flour. If you find yourself with a southern grocer, first try asking for sooji/farina. If he does not respond (though I am sure he will), try asking for wheat rava.

Indian semolina behaves rather like polenta, but cooks much faster and ends up with a much lighter, fluffier texture. A simple dish of it can be prepared in less than fifteen minutes, which makes it a very popular breakfast food and makes sooji a wonderful ingredient to have on hand. For breakfast, many Indians much prefer to eat their sooji/farina in a fluffy and savory form, not a sweet one. As one South Indian friend said to me, “We don’t like our breakfasts to be sweet. We like them hot and spicy.” Indeed, in India many Western breakfast companies have been selling instant cooking cereals filled with Indian spices and no sugar!

Sooji upmas can be served as breakfast, lunch, and dinner as well. In some North Indian cities, sooji is made into rich halvas, with lots of ghee and sugar (see Sooji Halva). These are eaten for breakfast on special occasions with Puffed Fried Breads.

A little sooji is often added to Indian foods, such as the Savory Pastry Strips with Ajowan Seeds, in order to make them extra crispy.

Dried turmeric

Dried turmeric

FLATTENED RICE WITH POTATOES

PHOVA USLI, AN UPMA

This is an absolutely delicious and simple breakfast or snack dish from the coastal Konkan region of western India. The texture is rice-like, but soft and much airier, and can collect in delicate lumps. I often make it for lunch and serve it with a large salad filled with lettuce, cucumbers, and tomatoes. You can use one whole dried red chili if you want the dish mild, and two (snapped in half) if you want the dish hotter. Many Indians prefer to add fiery fresh green chilies instead, one, two, or three, either split in half lengthwise or sliced into thin rings. Lime or lemon wedges should be served on the side.

To reheat, sprinkle with a tablespoon or two of water, cover, and put over very low heat. Toss gently now and then.

SERVES 3–4

1. Cut the potatoes into ½ inch dice.

2. Put the poha into a sieve and wash gently but thoroughly under cold running water. Empty it into a bowl, cover generously with water, and leave to soak for 2 minutes. Drain and leave in the sieve set over a bowl.

3. Put the oil into a large nonstick frying pan and set it over medium-high heat. When hot, add the asafetida and the urad dal. As soon as the dal starts to pick up a little color, add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and the chili (whatever type you are using). As soon as the mustard seeds start to pop, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter), then the onions and potatoes. Lower the heat to medium and fry, stirring now and again, until the onions and potatoes are slightly browned, 3–4 minutes. Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon salt over the top and stir.

4. Add the poha, gently breaking up any lumps, and sprinkle ½ teaspoon salt and the sugar over the top. Cook over low heat for 3–4 minutes, tossing frequently by lifting all the ingredients from the bottom with a flat spatula and folding them over, until the poha is heated through. Cover and set aside until you are ready to eat.

5. To reheat, sprinkle with a tablespoon or two of water and warm over very low heat. Toss gently now and then. Garnish with the fresh cilantro and serve with lime or lemon wedges.

FLATTENED RICE WITH CAULIFLOWER AND PEAS

PHOOL GOBI AUR MATAR WALA POHA

A grand dish that looks splendid and tastes as good as it looks. Sometimes I eat this all by itself. Other dishes, such as Mixed Dal, Marwari-Style, could be added to the meal, as well as a raita, popadams, and chutneys. It is also perfect for brunch.

In India most people like their poha upmas to be fairly spicy, but you can use as many or as few green chilies as you like.

SERVES 4

3 cups thick poha (flattened rice)

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

Generous pinch of ground asafetida

¾ teaspoon urad dal

½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

10–15 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

1 medium onion (about 4 oz), peeled and chopped

2 teaspoons peeled and very finely grated fresh ginger

2 cups very small cauliflower florets, ½ inch wide and 1 inch long, well washed and drained

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 cup fresh cooked peas or defrosted frozen peas

1–3 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

Salt

1 tablespoon lime juice

1. Put the poha into a sieve and wash gently but thoroughly in running water. Place in a bowl, cover generously with water, and soak for 2 minutes. Drain and leave in a sieve set over a bowl.

2. Put the oil into a large nonstick frying pan and set it over medium-high heat. When hot, add the asafetida and the urad dal. As soon as the dal starts to pick up a little color, add the mustard seeds and cumin seeds. When the mustard seeds start to pop, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter), then the onions, ginger, cauliflower, and turmeric. Stir gently for about 3–4 minutes, still over medium-high heat, until the onions and cauliflower are lightly browned.

3. Reduce the heat to medium low and add the peas, green chilies, ½ teaspoon of salt, and the lime juice. Stir gently for 1–2 minutes, always lifting the ingredients from the bottom, so the peas heat/cook through.

4. Add all the poha, gently breaking up any lumps. Sprinkle another ½ teaspoon of salt over it and mix gently over a very low heat for 3–4 minutes, using a flat spatula and lifting the mixture from the bottom and folding it over the rest. When the ingredients are well blended and the poha has heated through, cover and set aside until you are ready to eat.

FLATTENED RICE WITH INDIAN-STYLE BEAN SPROUTS

PHUTI MOONG AUR POHA KA UPMA

A very nutritious dish often eaten for breakfast in western India, it can also be eaten as a snack. Serve it with a yogurt lassi or a yogurt relish, or just plain old tea or coffee.

To reheat, sprinkle with a tablespoon or two of water, put over very low heat, and cover, tossing gently now and then.

SERVES 3–4

1. Put the poha into a sieve and wash gently but thoroughly under running water. Empty it into a bowl, cover generously with water, and leave to soak for 2 minutes. Drain and leave in a sieve set over a bowl.

2. Put the oil into a large nonstick frying pan and set it over medium-high heat. When hot, add the asafetida and urad dal. As soon as the dal starts to pick up a little color, add the mustard seeds. When the seeds start to pop, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter) and then the onions. Stir and fry for 6–7 minutes, until the onions just start to brown. Add the turmeric, ginger, and green chilies. Stir for a minute, then add the bean sprouts and ⅓ cup water. Bring to a simmer. Cover and simmer very gently for 10 minutes, adding a little water if the pan starts to dry out.

3. Add the poha and salt and cook over low heat for 3–4 minutes, tossing frequently by lifting all the ingredients from the bottom and folding them over, until the poha is heated through. Cover and set aside until you are ready to eat. Serve with the lime wedges.

FLATTENED RICE WITH TOMATOES

TIMATAR KA POHA UPMA

A lovely poha recipe sent to me by my friend and brilliant Indian food writer Vikram Doctor.

I have served this on summer days outdoors with a beet and hard-boiled-egg salad, for which I use the same dressing as Tomato Salad, plus Green Beans with Potatoes and a green salad. It is a perfect lunch. In the winter it can be paired with an eggplant dish and a paneer dish, or just have it with a cup of hot tea.

To reheat, sprinkle with a tablespoon or two of water, put over very low heat, and cover, tossing gently now and then.

SERVES 4

From Vikram Doctor

2 cups thick poha (flattened rice)

2 tablespoons peanut or olive oil

½ teaspoon urad dal

Generous pinch of ground asafetida

1 teaspoon whole mustard seeds

½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

10–15 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

1 medium onion, peeled and chopped

1–3 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon peeled and very finely grated fresh ginger

2 medium tomatoes (about 12 oz in all), peeled and chopped

About ¾ teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon sugar

1. Wash the poha gently but thoroughly under running water. Empty it into a bowl, cover generously with water, and leave to soak for 2 minutes. Drain and leave in a sieve set over a bowl.

2. Pour the oil into a medium, preferably nonstick pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the urad dal and the asafetida. As soon as the dal begins to change color, add the mustard seeds. When they start to pop, a matter of seconds, add the cumin seeds and, a second later, the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter). Quickly add the onions, green chilies, and turmeric. Reduce the heat to medium and fry for 3–4 minutes or until the onions are translucent.

3. Add the ginger and stir for a minute. Now add all the tomatoes, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the sugar. Increase the heat to medium high and fry for 3–4 minutes or until the tomatoes have softened.

4. Add all the poha and sprinkle another ¼ teaspoon of salt over the top. Cook over low heat for 3–4 minutes, gently breaking up any lumps and tossing the mixture with a flat spatula, lifting the ingredients from the bottom and turning them over. Add a sprinkling of water now and then. When heated through, cover and set aside until you are ready to eat.

FLATTENED RICE WITH GREEN BEANS AND GINGER

SEM KA POHA UPMA

Here is yet another variation of poha upma, this time with ginger-flavored green beans. By now you will know how to put flattened rice together with almost any vegetable and any flavoring of your choice.

SERVES 4

2 medium waxy potatoes, boiled, cooled, and peeled

Salt

1½ cups green beans (rounded or flat), cut crosswise into pieces ¼ inch thick

3 cups thick poha (flattened rice)

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

Generous pinch of ground asafetida

¾ teaspoon urad dal

¾ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

¾ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

2 dried hot red chilies, or 2 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

10–15 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

1 small onion (3 oz), peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon peeled and very finely grated fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon lime juice

2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, to serve

1. Cut the potatoes into ½ inch dice.

2. Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a medium pan. Stir in 2 teaspoons salt, then add the beans and boil for 4 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold water. Set aside.

3. Wash the poha gently but thoroughly under running water. Empty it into a bowl, cover generously with water, and leave to soak for 2 minutes. Drain and leave in a sieve set over a bowl.

4. Put the oil into a large nonstick frying pan and set it over medium-high heat. When hot, add the asafetida and urad dal. As soon as the dal starts to pick up a little color, add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and chilies. As soon as the mustard seeds start to pop, add the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter), then the onions, ginger, and turmeric. Stir for a minute and add the potatoes. Stir and fry over medium heat for 3–4 minutes, until the onions and potatoes are slightly browned. Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon of salt over the top. Mix gently, then gently stir in the beans.

5. Over low heat, add all the poha, gently breaking up any lumps. Sprinkle in 1 teaspoon of salt, then the sugar and lime juice. Mix gently, using a flat spatula, lifting the ingredients from the bottom and folding them over. Keep tossing this way and cooking for about 3–4 minutes or until the poha is heated through. Cover and set aside until you are ready to eat. Garnish with the fresh cilantro and serve.

BREAD UPMA

DOUBLE ROTI KA UPMA

If you come in from work and are tired and hungry, this upma can be prepared in no time. With it you could have a light salad, a bowl of soup, or just a cup of hot tea. You can also serve it with eggs. It is a good way to use up day-old bread. I like to make my upma with whole-grain bread, but white bread will do as well.

SERVES 2–3

From Jayanti Rajagopalan

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

½ teaspoon urad dal

½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

Generous pinch of ground asafetida

7–8 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

1 medium onion (5 oz), peeled and finely sliced

½–2 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

A ½-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and very finely diced

Generous pinch of ground turmeric

1 good-sized tomato (6 oz), chopped

Salt

4 large slices of whole-grain bread, cut or broken into ½ inch cubes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Put the oil in a medium nonstick pan and set over medium heat. When it is hot, add the urad dal. As soon as the dal begins to take on color, add the mustard seeds and asafetida. When the seeds start to pop, a matter of seconds, throw in the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter). A second later, add the onions, green chilies, and ginger. Stir and sauté for about 3 minutes or until the onions start to soften. Add the turmeric and stir once. Now add the tomatoes and a generous pinch of salt. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring now and then, until the tomato softens.

2. Add the bread and increase the heat to medium high. Stir briskly until the spice mixture coats the bread and all the ingredients are well mixed. Cover, reduce the heat, and cook over low heat for another 2–3 minutes. Check the salt, adding more if needed. Sprinkle the fresh cilantro over the top and serve.

QUINOA “UPMA” WITH CORN AND MINT

BHUTTA, PUDINA AUR QUINOA KA UPMA

In South India, upmas are pilaf-like, well-spiced, savory dishes that can be made with different grains, such as semolina (sooji) and flattened rice (poha). I have discovered, completely by accident, that they can also be made with Western grains, such as quinoa. This tiny, nutritious seed needs to be cooked first and then stir-fried with the chosen vegetables and seasonings. Here I have used corn and mint. I like to use fresh corn in the summer, but frozen cooked corn kernels may be used during the rest of the year.

This upma can be served as a snack at any time of day with a cup of tea or coffee. It makes a perfect breakfast food or brunch item. For a light lunch, serve it with a green salad, to which you can add grapefruit or tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers.

SERVES 4

1 cup quinoa

3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

Generous pinch of ground asafetida

½ teaspoon urad dal

½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

1 dried hot red chili

10–15 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

½ large onion, peeled and chopped

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 cup corn kernels, fresh (from 1–2 cobs) or frozen and cooked through

1–2 fresh hot green chilies, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon lime or lemon juice

Lime or lemon wedges, to serve

1. Pour 2 cups water into a pan and bring to a boil. Add the quinoa, stir, and cover. Cook gently over very low heat for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the pan rest, covered, for another 15 minutes.

2. Put the oil into a large nonstick frying pan and set it over medium-high heat. When hot, add the asafetida and the urad dal. As soon as the dal starts to pick up a little color, add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and the red chili. When the mustard seeds start to pop and the chili darkens, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter), then the onions and turmeric. Stir and fry over medium heat until the onions are slightly browned, 3–4 minutes. Add the corn, green chilies, fresh cilantro, mint, and a generous pinch of salt. Stir and cook gently for about 2 minutes.

3. Add the cooked quinoa, gently breaking up any lumps, and sprinkle ¾ teaspoon of salt, a few grinds of pepper, the sugar, and the lime or lemon juice over the top. Cook over very low heat for 3–4 minutes, tossing frequently by lifting all the ingredients from the bottom with a flat spatula and folding them over. When the quinoa is heated through, check the seasonings and make the necessary adjustments. Cover and set aside until you are ready to eat. Reheat with sprinklings of water. Serve with lime or lemon wedges.

SEMOLINA UPMA WITH GREEN BEANS, PEAS, AND CARROTS

SOOJI KA UPMA

This dish is from south Karnataka. It can be served as a snack or for breakfast with a sprinkling of lime juice and a yogurt relish, or at lunch or dinner with a sambar (see this page), as well as chutneys and relishes. I have also been known to serve it as a first course with, quite heretically, a generous sprinkling of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

To reheat, add a generous sprinkling of water as you stir and mix, breaking up lumps with the back of a wooden spoon. You should do this on medium or medium-low heat for 4–5 minutes or until it is heated through and soft.

SERVES 3–4

From Swaranlatha and her mother, Rajalaxmi, in Mysore

1 cup semolina (see note)

2 tablespoons olive or peanut oil

½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

1–2 hot red dried chilies

6–7 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand

½ medium onion, peeled and chopped

1 fresh hot green chili, finely sliced (optional)

½ cup green beans, cut into rounds ⅓ inch thick

½ cup fresh peas or defrosted frozen peas

1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into ¼ inch dice

Salt

1. Put a wok or medium frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the semolina and stir it around for 3–4 minutes or until you get a roasted aroma. The semolina should not change color much. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

2. Clean out the pan and set over medium heat. Add the oil and, when it is hot, add the mustard seeds and red chilies. Stir until the seeds pop and the chilies darken, a few seconds. Add the curry leaves (take care, as they will splutter) and, a second later, the onions and green chilies (if using). Stir for a minute.

3. Add the beans, peas, and carrots and sauté for 2–3 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons of water and ¼ teaspoon of salt. Cover and cook over a low heat for about 4 minutes or until the vegetables are just done. Remove the lid and add 2¼ cups water and ¾ teaspoon of salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.

4. Pick up a fistful of semolina and begin adding it to the pan in a slow drizzle, stirring as you go. Keep doing this until all the semolina is used up. Never stop stirring. This will take about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium low and keep stirring and breaking up lumps for another 2 minutes. Continue to stir and break up lumps, now over low heat, for another 3–4 minutes or until the upma is soft and fluffy. Serve immediately, or cover and reheat as suggested above.

“RISOTTO” OF DAL, RICE, AND VEGETABLES

GEELI KHICHRI

Khichri is an ancient Indian dish made with the nutritious combination of dal and rice. If you add vegetables, it becomes a complete meal. It comes in a dry form, rather like rice, and a wet form, rather like a risotto or porridge. This is the latter.

I like to serve it spread out on an old-fashioned soup plate with a pat of butter or ghee, some lemon juice, some crisply fried shallot slivers, chopped green chilies, finely chopped fresh ginger, and a few pinches of garam masala on the top. You can serve this as a first course in small portions, or as a main course.

I originally made this dish with the dal left over from making the stock for Red Pepper and Tomato Soup. If you have not made the soup and still want to make the “risotto,” just combine 1 cup dal, rice, cumin, coriander, turmeric, chili powder, onions, ginger, cauliflower, peas, and 12 cups water in a big pan. Bring to a boil, cover partially, and simmer gently for 1½ hours, adding boiling water as needed if the porridge gets too thick. Stir more frequently when the porridge thickens. Add the salt and mix it in. Do the tarka (see this page) at the end.

SERVES 6

1 cup moong dal (skinned and split mung beans), already cooked for stock as on this page (with the 5 cups of liquid already removed)

½ cup basmati or jasmine rice, washed in several changes of water and drained

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon nice red chili powder

1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped

1½ cups cauliflower, finely chopped

1 cup fresh peas or defrosted frozen peas

1½ teaspoons salt

FOR THE TARKA

2 teaspoons olive or peanut oil or ghee (clarified butter)

Generous pinch of ground asafetida

¼ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

2 dried hot red chilies

6 tablespoons tomato puree

1. Put the remaining dal in a large pan (the stock should already have been removed) and add all the other ingredients, apart from those for the tarka. Pour in 6 cups water and bring to a boil. Cover partially, lower the heat, and simmer gently for 45 minutes, stirring frequently as the mixture thickens, and mashing the vegetables a bit.

2. To make the tarka, put the oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add the asafetida and, a second later, the mustard seeds. As soon as they pop, add the cumin seeds and red chilies. Stir until the chilies darken, then add the tomato puree. Stir once or twice, then pour the contents of the pan over the khichri. Stir and serve as suggested above.