These dishes come straight from the oven or hob to the table with a pleasing crackle or cloud of steam. They are the sorts of meals that will have your guests asking for the recipe – and your children leaving the table very happy. Making pastry cases may seem daunting, but with my failsafe method the tarts on here are impressive and super-achievable. As for the gratins (see here), they are vegetables made marvellous. Serve as stand-alone suppers or impressive sidekicks to roasted meat, fish, or simply more vegetables. One to two hours is enough time to cook, practise spellings, have reading books read to you, tear through numeracy homework, get a washing load on, hurl clean washing away in drawers, wash up, sweep the kitchen floor... Here’s to multi-tasking and the beautiful bedlam of family life and a busy kitchen.
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This Greek filo pasty dish is traditionally stuffed with feta and spinach but I’ve used broccoli here. I’ve made this as a circular pie with the centre left uncovered, but you can make it rectangular and completely covered if you prefer. Just be sure to slash the top with a few slits to release any steam as it cooks. Work quickly when using the filo and keep the unused sheets under a clean damp tea towel as you work, to prevent the pastry from drying out and becoming brittle.
1 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely diced
350g broccoli, cut into florets
200g feta cheese, crumbled
100g cottage cheese, ricotta or quark
4 eggs, beaten
Small bunch of fresh herbs such as dill, mint or parsley, finely chopped, or 1 tbsp dried oregano or mint, or a combination of fresh and dried herbs
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
300g filo pastry sheets
150g butter, melted
Preheat the oven to 190°C (180°C fan). Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Heat the olive oil in a small pan and fry the onion until soft and translucent – 8–10 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the broccoli in plenty of salted boiling water until tender, then drain well.
In a mixing bowl combine the broccoli, onion, feta, cottage cheese or ricotta, beaten eggs, herbs and nutmeg, then season with salt and pepper.
Lay two filo sheets vertically on the prepared baking sheet. Brush each sheet with melted butter. Take two more filo sheets and place them so that they are at the 11 o’clock and 5 o’clock positions, brushing each sheet with melted butter. Continue to arrange filo sheets as if around a clock face, until you have an overlapping circle shape. Be sure to butter each filo sheet liberally.
When all the filo sheets have been used, place the broccoli mixture in the centre and spread out into a circle, leaving a good 5cm border. Carefully fold the filo over the edge of the broccoli mixture, leaving a majority of the mixture in the centre uncovered.
Generously brush the edges of the pie with the remaining butter.
Bake for 25–30 minutes until the pastry is golden and the centre is just set. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for 5–10 minutes before slicing and serving.
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Less of a soup, more of a rubble. The trick to cooking pumpkin well is to concentrate the flavour before adding any liquid. Sautéing the pumpkin along with the onion, celery, garlic and rosemary means the backbone of this soup is bold and intense. Ricotta toasts are the perfect foil. Cheese on toast would work just as well if you prefer.
4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve
1 large onion, finely diced
400g pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1cm dice
2 celery stalks, diced
3 garlic cloves, 2 finely sliced, 1 halved
2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
¼ tsp dried chilli flakes (optional)
400g tin whole tomatoes, drained of juice and roughly chopped
Approx. 200g kale, stalks removed, finely shredded
400g tin borlotti beans, or cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
800ml hot chicken or vegetable stock or water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated Parmesan
100g ricotta
8 slices of good rustic bread
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion, pumpkin and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10–15 minutes until the vegetables are soft and just starting to colour.
Add the garlic, rosemary and chilli flakes and cook for another 2–3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes or until any liquid has evaporated and the mix is concentrated.
In a separate saucepan, cook the kale in salted boiling water for 3–5 minutes until tender, then drain.
Add the beans and the stock or water to the pumpkin mixture, increase the heat and bring to the boil. Season with a big pinch of salt, then reduce the heat to low, add the cooked kale and simmer, partially covered with a lid, for 10–15 minutes. Add a little more water or stock if the soup becomes too thick.
Meanwhile prepare the toasts by mixing a tablespoon or so of grated Parmesan into the ricotta, with a pinch of chilli flakes and some salt to taste. Toast the bread and rub each slice with the halved garlic clove. Spread each slice with some of the ricotta mix.
Check the soup for seasoning, then divide among bowls and top with a little additional olive oil. Serve the soup with the ricotta toast and some extra grated Parmesan to add at the table.
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Yogurt lightens this dish considerably. Stabilised with the eggs and cornflour, the yogurt bakes into a wonderful, clean-tasting topping to complement the meaty rich lamb and aubergines beneath. Serve with a tomato and cucumber salad, dressed with a little salt, some olive oil, lemon juice and perhaps some dried oregano.
4–6 tbsp olive oil
3 medium or 2 large aubergines
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large onion, finely diced
2 big garlic cloves, finely sliced
1½ tsp ground cinnamon
500g minced lamb (or leftover roast lamb, roughly chopped)
400g tin chopped tomatoes
2 tsp dried oregano
Small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
TOPPING
500g Greek yogurt
2 eggs, beaten
1 tbsp cornflour
100g halloumi cheese, coarsely grated
About ¼ of a whole nutmeg (or to taste), grated
Preheat the oven to 180°C (170°C fan). Line a couple of baking sheets with greaseproof paper, then brush with a little of the olive oil.
Cut the aubergines into 1cm thick rounds and lay the slices on the baking sheets. Brush with a little more olive oil and season with a little salt. Bake for 18–25 minutes until soft and golden; set aside.
Meanwhile, in a saucepan over a moderate heat, fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of olive oil for about 8–10 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cinnamon and cook for another minute.
Turn up the heat a little and add the lamb. Brown the lamb, cooking the mince until the mixture is dry and any liquid has evaporated. Add the tomatoes and half the oregano and bring to a simmer. Turn the heat down low, season with salt and pepper and cook for about 25 minutes until the mix is concentrated and much of the liquid has evaporated. Check the seasoning and add the parsley.
Meanwhile, prepare the yogurt topping. Whisk the yogurt with the eggs and cornflour, then stir in the grated halloumi, the nutmeg and plenty of pepper.
Arrange a third of the aubergines in the base of an ovenproof dish, and top with half of the meat and tomato sauce. Repeat these layers, finishing with a layer of aubergine.
Spoon the yogurt sauce over the top, scatter with the remaining oregano and spoon over a tablespoon of olive oil.
Bake for 40–45 minutes until the top is golden and blistered. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes or so before serving.
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This supper has saved my sanity countless times. I think it’s the minimal ingredients and the inherent pleasure they deliver that makes this recipe bulletproof. Add bacon or pancetta to the onion as it cooks, use a different pasta shape, or try kale, broccoli, leek or spring greens instead of the cabbage. Any which way, you want a deeply flavoured chicken broth with lots of vegetables and a little pasta. Simple things.
8 boneless chicken thighs, skin on or off as you like
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
200g macaroni (or similar short pasta shape)
600ml hot chicken stock or water
1 small savoy cabbage (or ½ a big one), finely shredded
Juice of ½ lemon – cut the other half into wedges, to serve
Small bunch of parsley, finely chopped
Freshly grated Parmesan, to serve
Pat the chicken dry and rub with a little salt and pepper. Set to one side.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a medium-high heat and cook the chicken until lightly browned, about 3 minutes on each side. Transfer the chicken to a plate for now.
Add another 2 tablespoons of oil to the same pan and fry the onion for about 8–10 minutes until soft and translucent. Add the rosemary and garlic and cook for a further 1–2 minutes or until the garlic smells fragrant but hasn’t begun to colour.
Add the macaroni and the hot stock and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Return the chicken to the pan along with any juices that have accumulated on the plate, cover and simmer for about 12–15 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the macaroni is tender.
Meanwhile, boil the cabbage in plenty of salted boiling water for about 4 minutes or until soft. Drain the cabbage and dress with the lemon juice, the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and salt and pepper to taste.
Once the chicken and pasta are cooked, add the cabbage to the pan and stir briefly to combine. Serve in bowls, with the lemon wedges on the side and plenty of grated Parmesan at the table.
These three gratins or bakes have enough razzle and dazzle to serve them centre stage; they put vegetables in the spotlight and let them shine. You could also serve any of these vegetable dishes alongside the Sunday roasted joint as a change from spuds and carrots.
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3 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely diced
1 fennel bulb, finely diced
1 large cauliflower, chopped into florets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary, plus 1 whole sprig
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or crushed
Small bunch of parsley, roughly chopped
Grated zest of 1 lemon
400g tin cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
½–1 tsp chilli flakes, to taste
Approx. 50g fresh breadcrumbs
Good handful (approx. 50g) of freshly grated Parmesan
Preheat the oven to 200°C (190°C fan). Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil.
In a separate saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over a moderate heat and cook the onion and fennel for about 8–10 minutes until they are soft, sweet and translucent.
Meanwhile, boil the cauliflower, along with a good pinch of salt and the sprig of rosemary, until just tender – about 5 minutes. Drain well, keeping about 250ml of the cooking liquid.
When the onion and fennel are soft, add the garlic and parsley and cook for 1 more minute.
Add the lemon zest, drained beans and chilli flakes, stir well to combine, and season with salt and pepper.
Finally, add the cauliflower and reserved cooking liquid and mix well, then tip everything into a large baking dish and put to one side.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil with the breadcrumbs, Parmesan and the chopped rosemary. Distribute the breadcrumb mix evenly over the cauliflower mix.
Bake for 20–25 minutes until the topping is crunchy and golden brown.
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500g pumpkin, peeled and cut into 2.5cm dice
3 tbsp olive oil
10 sage leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
400g chard, washed and roughly chopped, both stalks and leaves
200g feta cheese, roughly crumbled
About¼ of a whole nutmeg (or to taste), grated
75g plain flour
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary or thyme
50g Parmesan, grated
¼–½ tsp dried chilli flakes
125g butter, diced
75g almonds, skin on or off as you like, roughly chopped
Preheat the oven to 180˚C (170˚C fan).
Roast the pumpkin on a baking tray with the olive oil, sage, salt and pepper until soft, cooked through and bronzed in places. Remove from the oven and put to one side.
Cook the chard in salted boiling water until cooked through – add the stalks first and then the leaves – this should take about 2–4 minutes. Drain well.
Arrange the cooked pumpkin and chard in a baking dish, and scatter the feta evenly over the dish. Add salt and pepper to taste and grate the nutmeg over the mix.
To make the crumble topping, mix the flour, rosemary and Parmesan in a bowl, adding chilli, salt and pepper to taste. Add the butter and, using the tips of your fingers, rub the butter into the flour as if you were making pastry. Continue until the butter is combined and you have a sandy, crumbly mixture. Add the chopped almonds.
Scatter the crumble topping over the pumpkin mix and bake for 25–30 minutes until the topping is golden brown.
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1 marrow
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 litre milk
2 bay leaves
6–8 whole peppercorns
2 onions, finely diced
4 tbsp olive oil
400g tin plum tomatoes
2 tsp thyme leaves
1 tbsp fennel seeds
Small bunch of parsley, roughly chopped
Pinch of dried chilli flakes, to taste
3 tbsp butter, plus extra for greasing
3 tbsp plain flour
3 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese, or other strong cheese such as Cheddar or feta
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
2–4 heaped tbsp fresh breadcrumbs
Cut the marrow in half lengthways, then cut into 2cm thick half moons. Sprinkle with a little salt and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (170°C fan). Line a large baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
In a saucepan over a moderate heat, warm the milk with the bay leaves, peppercorns and 1 tablespoon of the diced onion. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse.
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a moderate heat, fry the remaining onion in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil for about 10 minutes until soft and translucent. Add the tomatoes, thyme, fennel seeds and some salt and pepper and simmer for about 20 minutes until concentrated and rich-tasting. Remove from the heat and add the parsley and chilli.
While the tomato sauce is cooking, pat dry and bake the marrow on the prepared baking sheet with the remaining olive oil for about 15–20 minutes until just cooked through.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the flour and cook, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes.
Strain the warm milk and gradually add to the pan with the flour mixture, a little at a time, whisking until smooth before adding more. With all the milk added, simmer very gently over a low heat for 10 minutes until the sauce is thickened and velvety.
Remove from the heat and add the grated cheese. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cover the pan with a lid to prevent a skin from forming on the sauce.
Lightly grease a gratin dish with butter. Add a layer of baked marrow, some spoonfuls of the tomato sauce and a layer of the cheese sauce. Continue until you have used up all the ingredients, finishing with a layer of cheese sauce.
Scatter with the breadcrumbs and bake for 30–40 minutes until the top is golden brown and the bottom bubbling beneath.
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Not only does this look great, but it also tastes delicious and is a spot-on addition to any packed lunch or picnic. I call it a cake because the recipe has flour, eggs and raising agent, loaded here with broccoli and feta cheese. Use any cooked vegetable instead of the broccoli if you prefer: courgettes, asparagus or cauliflower all work brilliantly in this cake.
200g broccoli, cut into smallish florets
2 small red onions
2 tbsp olive oil
½ tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp thyme leaves
4 medium eggs
120g plain flour
1½ tsp baking powder
50g Cheddar cheese, grated
200g feta cheese, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g pine nuts
Preheat the oven to 200°C (190°C fan). Line a 25cm round springform cake tin with greaseproof paper.
Cook the broccoli in plenty of salted boiling water for 4–6 minutes until tender; drain well and leave to cool. If using asparagus or cauliflower, cook them in a similar way. If using courgettes, sauté them along with the diced onions (below).
Peel the onions then slice two rings, 2–3mm thick, and reserve for the top of the cake. Finely dice the remaining onion.
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a moderate heat and cook the diced onions for about 8–10 minutes until soft and translucent. Add the rosemary and thyme and cook for another minute or so. Leave to cool.
Beat the eggs in a bowl, then add the flour, baking powder, grated cheese and crumbled feta, adding salt and pepper to taste. Add the cooked onion and herbs, then add the broccoli and mix to combine.
Spoon into the cake tin and arrange the raw onion rings and the pine nuts on top. Bake for 25–35 minutes until the cake is firm to the touch and golden on top. Serve warm or cold.
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This is a fantastic method to make the Indian spiced rice dish, biryani. Marinating the mushrooms in yogurt and spices before cooking them under a blanket of rice steamed in coconut milk adds extra depth of flavour but also locks in the cooking juices under the rice as it cooks. Use chicken pieces marinated in the yogurt if you prefer to the mushrooms.
120g plain yogurt
1½ tsp garam masala
1½ tsp curry powder (hot or mild)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
250g mushrooms, sliced
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 onions, finely sliced
40g butter
2 small cinnamon sticks
3 cloves
2 bay leaves
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp turmeric
350g basmati rice
450ml boiling water
200ml coconut milk (or use full-fat milk)
Small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped
1 fresh green chilli, finely sliced (optional)
50g cashews or flaked almonds, toasted
TO SERVE
Plain yogurt seasoned with a little salt
1 or 2 limes, cut into wedges
In a bowl, mix the yogurt with the garam masala, curry powder, garlic and ½ teaspoon of salt. Add the mushrooms and leave to marinate.
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a moderate heat and fry the onions for about 10 minutes until soft and translucent. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (170°C fan).
Add the cooled onions to the yogurt and mushroom mixture and set aside.
Heat the butter in the saucepan you used for the onions, and fry the cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves and cumin seeds for 1 minute over a moderate heat. Add the turmeric and the rice and toast in the butter and spices for 1 minute.
Add the boiling water and a generous pinch of salt, bring to the boil and cook uncovered for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the coconut milk (or milk).
Spread the marinated mushroom mixture in a casserole to which you have a tight-fitting lid. Pour the par-cooked rice over the mushroom mix. Cover with the lid and bake for 45 minutes or until the rice is cooked through.
Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the chopped coriander, freshly ground pepper to taste, the green chilli if using and the toasted almonds or cashews. Serve with lime wedges and some seasoned yogurt.
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More forgiving than a pie crust and more substantial than a crumble topping, a cobbler is a satisfying and hearty dish to make in wintertime. Experiment with what lies bubbling beneath the springy, crisp dough: savoury, as here, or sweet (see here).
1 tbsp butter
4 rashers of unsmoked streaky bacon, finely diced
2 onions, finely diced
2–3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 bay leaves
1 tsp thyme leaves
1 tbsp plain flour
1 tbsp mustard powder
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
800g ox cheek, or beef shin or stewing beef, cut into big bite-sized chunks
100ml red wine (use dark beer instead if you prefer)
400g tin whole plum tomatoes, drained of juice
2 or 3 fat carrots, cut into 2cm chunks
300ml beef or chicken stock or water
TOPPING
180g self-raising flour
120g butter, cold and diced
80g Cheddar cheese, grated
1 tsp thyme leaves
3 medium eggs, beaten
60ml milk
Preheat the oven to 180°C (170°C fan).
Heat the butter over a moderate heat in a heavy-bottomed casserole to which you have a tight-fitting lid. Add the bacon and brown a little – about 4 minutes. Add the onions and cook for about 10 minutes until soft and translucent. Add the garlic, bay leaves and thyme and cook for about 2 minutes until the garlic smells fragrant but hasn’t taken on any colour. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mix to a plate – leaving the fat behind in the pan – and set to one side.
Meanwhile, in a clean plastic bag, mix the flour with the mustard powder, 1 teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper. Add the meat and, holding the end of the bag closed, shake to distribute the meat evenly in the seasoned flour.
Put the pan with the bacon fat over a medium-high heat and, working in batches, brown the beef on all sides for about 3–4 minutes. Add a little more butter or vegetable oil to the pan if needed. Transfer the browned meat to the plate with the onions.
Add the wine or beer to the hot pan and stir over a high heat to dislodge any meat and onion residue. Tip the meat and onions back into the pan along with the tomatoes, carrots and the stock or water. Bring to a simmer and season with salt and pepper. Put the lid on the pan and put it in the oven for about 1½ hours or until the beef is absolutely tender. (Alternatively, you can use a slow cooker to cook the beef until tender.)
Meanwhile in a mixing bowl, mix together the flour and a good pinch of salt and then use your fingertips to mix in the butter until the mixture resembles flaky breadcrumbs. Stir through the cheese and thyme.
In a separate bowl, mix together the eggs and milk. Make a well in the flour mixture, add the egg mix and swiftly combine to make a batter.
Drop large spoonfuls of the cobbler batter all over the surface of the beef stew in the casserole – a few gaps here and there is fine, you don’t need to cover the stew entirely.
Bake, uncovered, for 35 minutes until the cobbler is crisp and golden and the meat is bubbling beneath.
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Shortcrust pastry made with an egg results in a rich and pliable dough with no heartache when it comes to rolling and shaping the case. The egg minimises the crumbly nature of the dough and means you can simply press it out into the tin. As for the filling, mackerel, mustard and crème fraîche is marvellous, but by all means play around with different options (see here).
PASTRY
250g plain flour, plus extra for rolling
Pinch of salt
150g butter, diced
1 medium egg, beaten
FILLING
30g butter
6 spring onions, sliced 1cm thick
200g smoked mackerel fillets, skin and bones removed, then roughly flaked
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Small bunch of parsley or dill, roughly chopped
2 bay leaves
200ml double cream or crème fraîche
2 medium eggs
2 tsp Dijon mustard (or use horseradish sauce if you like)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 cherry tomatoes, halved, and/or 1 tbsp capers
To make the pastry, put the flour, salt and butter in a food processor and blend until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg and pulse until the mixture just comes together. Bring the dough together with your hands and shape into a flattish disc. Wrap in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Alternatively, to make the pastry by hand, put the flour and salt in a bowl and use your fingertips to mix in the butter until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and mix to form a dough. Shape into a flattish disc, wrap in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the filling, melt the butter in a saucepan over a moderate heat and fry the spring onions until soft – about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the mackerel, lemon zest, herbs and bay leaves.
In a bowl, mix the cream, eggs and mustard together with salt and pepper to taste.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (170°C fan). Put a large baking sheet in the oven to heat up.
Remove the pastry from the fridge and give it a quick flatten with a rolling pin. Then, using your fingers and the heel of your hand, push the pastry out into a 20cm round springform tart tin, pressing it evenly over the base and pushing it up the sides and into the corners of the tin, making sure it is as thin as possible and leaving no gaps or holes.
Distribute the flaked mackerel and spring onion mixture over the pastry base. Carefully pour in the cream and egg mix, giving it a gentle shake to distribute it evenly. Add the halved cherry tomatoes and/or capers to the top of the tart.
Put the tart on the hot baking sheet and bake for 35–40 minutes until the pastry is crisp and pale golden and the filling is set.
Leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes or so before turning out and cutting into wedges, removing the bay leaves as you serve.
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Homity pie is a classic combination of Cheddar and onion; more of a tart here than a pie, to be honest. I’ve used leeks and Caerphilly cheese as a change from the more usual Cheddar and onions. The potatoes make for a hearty, filling tart that eats well for lunch or supper but also makes for a mighty impressive picnic offering.
PASTRY
250g plain flour, plus extra for rolling
Pinch of salt
150g butter, diced
1 medium egg, beaten
FILLING
800g floury potatoes, peeled and cut into 5cm dice
35g butter
4 leeks, sliced, rinsed and well drained
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or crushed
Small bunch of parsley, finely chopped (use chives if you prefer)
200g Caerphilly, coarsely grated or crumbled
About ¼ of a whole nutmeg (or to taste), grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
250ml double cream
To make the pastry, put the flour, salt and butter in a food processor and blend until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg and pulse until the mixture just comes together. Bring the dough together with your hands and shape into a flattish disc. Wrap in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Alternatively, to make the pastry by hand, put the flour and salt in a bowl and use your fingertips to mix in the butter until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and mix to form a dough. Shape into a flattish disc, wrap in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
To make the filling, cook the potatoes in salted boiling water for about 15 minutes until just tender. Drain well and cut into thick slices.
While the potatoes are cooking, melt the butter in a saucepan over a moderate heat and fry the leeks for about 8–10 minutes until completely soft. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (170°C fan). Put a large baking sheet in the oven to heat up.
Remove the pastry from the fridge and give it a quick flatten with a rolling pin. Then, using your fingers and the heel of your hand, push the pastry out into a 20cm springform tart tin, pressing it evenly over the base and pushing it up the sides and into the corners of the tin, making sure it is as thin as possible and leaving no gaps or holes.
Add the potatoes, parsley and half the cheese to the cooked leeks. Season with the nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste.
Spoon the potato mixture evenly into the pastry case and pour over the cream. Distribute the remaining cheese over the top of the tart.
Put the tart on the hot baking sheet and bake for 35–40 minutes until the pastry is crisp and pale golden and the filling is set.
Leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes before turning out and cutting into wedges.
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Make this in summertime when tomatoes are at their seasonal best. Serve simply alongside a salad of soft buttery lettuce and plenty of soft herbs (singularly or a mixture of mint, basil, chervil, tarragon, parsley, marjoram or chives) dressed with a little red wine vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper.
PASTRY
250g plain flour, plus extra for rolling
Pinch of salt
150g butter, diced
1 medium egg, beaten
FILLING
400g cherry tomatoes, halved
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp thyme leaves (use oregano, marjoram, basil or chives if you prefer)
¼ tsp sugar
300g crème fraiche
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Preheat the oven to 180°C (170°C fan).
To make the pastry, put the flour, salt and butter in a food processor and blend until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg and pulse until the mixture just comes together. Bring the dough together with your hands and shape into a flattish disc. Wrap in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Alternatively, to make the pastry by hand, put the flour and salt in a bowl and use your fingertips to mix in the butter until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and mix to form a dough. Shape into a flattish disc, wrap in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the filling, toss the tomatoes with about 1 teaspoon of salt, the olive oil, thyme and sugar and roast, cut side up, on a baking tray in the hot oven for 8–10 minutes until they are soft but still retain their shape. Set to one side to cool and keep any juices.
Put a large baking sheet in the oven to heat up.
Remove the pastry from the fridge and give it a quick flatten with a rolling pin. Then, using your fingers and the heel of your hand, push the pastry out into a 20cm round springform tart tin, pressing it evenly over the base and pushing it up the sides and into the corners of the tin, making sure it is as thin as possible and leaving no gaps or holes.
Beat together the crème fraîche, mustard, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Add any juices from the tomato roasting tray and pour the crème fraîche into the pastry case. Arrange the roasted tomato halves on top of the crème fraiche.
Put the tart on the hot baking sheet and bake for 35–40 minutes until the pastry is crisp and golden brown.
Leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes or so before turning out and cutting into wedges.
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My mum’s fruitcake is amazing. She’ll have one made in advance of the children arriving at her house and the kids will scramble out of the car after a long and boring journey to cups of tea and wedges of cake with granny. Not only does this cake keep incredibly well, I find it almost eats better after a day or so, with a slice of cold salted butter on top.
MAKES 8–10 SLICES
350g mixed fruit
200g soft light brown sugar
240ml milk
110g butter, plus extra for greasing
1 large egg, beaten
1 heaped tbsp marmalade
225g self-raising flour
1 tsp mixed ground spice
¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp demerara sugar
Put the mixed fruit, sugar, milk and butter in a saucepan over a moderate heat. Bring to the boil and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Preheat the oven to 160°C (150°C fan). Generously butter a 23cm round cake tin.
Add the beaten egg and marmalade to the fruit mix, then mix in the flour, spice and bicarbonate of soda.
Spoon into the cake tin and sprinkle the top of the cake with the demerara sugar.
Bake for 50–60 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. If the cake is browning too much during the last 10–15 minutes of cooking time, cover with a piece of foil.
Remove from the oven and leave in the tin for 10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack to cool completely.
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I love how the sugar and butter caramelise on the base of this cake, complementing the fruity thwack of rhubarb. Star anise also works well with the fruit, giving the caramel a subtle aniseed flavour. The cake turns out, upside down, a beautiful mix of bronze studded with pink.
MAKES 8–10 SLICES
140g soft brown sugar
80g unsalted butter, diced, plus extra for greasing
250g (2 or 3 stalks) rhubarb, cut into 3cm pieces
3 whole star anise
150g caster sugar
175g plain flour
1 heaped tsp baking powder
2 tsp ground ginger
150ml sunflower oil
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Preheat the oven to 180°C (170°C). Grease a 23cm round springform cake tin with butter and line with a disc of greaseproof paper, pressing it right into the corners.
Scatter the brown sugar and butter over the bottom of the lined tin and put in the hot oven for 5 minutes.
Remove from the oven and press the raw rhubarb and star anise into the melted butter and sugar.
Mix the caster sugar, flour, baking powder and ground ginger in a large bowl and then beat in the oil and the eggs. Pour the batter over the rhubarb in the tin and bake for about 45–55 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean.
Leave the cake to cool in the tin for about 10 minutes, then fold back the edges of the greaseproof paper and turn the cake upside down onto a waiting plate.
