Pan-Asian Steamed Dumplings

A few shreds of lemongrass, a bit of Szechwan pepper, a daring dollop of grated fresh ginger or an undeniable measure of lemon zest, and pork, mushrooms, shrimp, chicken livers take on a new meaning for the Western palate. Bundled in Asian-style pasta wrappers, the fillings turn into delicate packets of taste, tender and lusciously rendered in the pressure cooker. More, you can stuff the wrappers with Italian-style fillings for a quick, almost ready-made pasta treat. For the wrappers, use wonton (square) wrappers, gyoza (round) wrappers, or egg roll wrappers cut into quarters. They're pretty much the same dough; just the shape differs. All are available in most supermarkets these days in the refrigerated Asian foods section, where you'll also find tofu and fresh Asian noodles.

 

Makes 16 dumplings, or 4 to 6 side dish servings

 

16	dumpling wrappers
1¼	cups filling (recipes follow)
	Dipping sauces of your choice (recipes follow)

1. Lay out the wrappers on a counter. Place 1 tablespoon filling in the center of each. With your fingers or a pastry brush, moisten the edges of each wrapper. Fold in half to make a triangle or half-moon shape, depending on the wrapper you are using, and pinch together the edges to seal. As you go, place the dumplings on a lightly oiled trivet that will fit inside the pressure cooker, setting them side by side in 1 layer but not overlapping.
2. Place a heatproof plate in the pressure cooker and pour in ¾ cup water. Set the trivet on top of the plate, so that the trivet rests just above the liquid. Lock on the lid and bring to pressure over high heat, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside for 5 minutes to finish cooking.
3. With the steam vent pointed away from your face, gently release any remaining pressure. Let rest with the lid ajar for 10 minutes before serving.
4. To serve, arrange the dumplings on a serving platter and accompany with dipping sauces on the side.

 

Note: You can cover the dumpling packets with a damp cloth or paper towel to keep them from drying out until ready to cook. They will hold this way for up to a couple of hours, but then they should be cooked and not refrigerated or held longer.

Shrimp and Lemongrass Filling

Makes about 1¼ cups, enough for about 16 dumplings

 

½	pound shrimp meat, minced (about 1 cup)
2	tablespoons minced lemongrass (tender white part only)
¼	cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
¼	cup coarsely grated carrot
1	teaspoon minced scallion
2	teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
½	teaspoon salt

Combine all the ingredients in a medium-size bowl and mix well. Use right away or refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 hours.

Ginger Pork Filling

Makes about 1½ cups, enough for about 16 dumplings

 

4	ounces ground pork
2	tablespoons peeled and coarsely grated fresh ginger
1	cup finely shredded green cabbage
2	tablespoons minced scallion
2	tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
1	tablespoon dry sherry

Combine all the ingredients in a medium-size bowl and mix well. Use right away or refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 days.

Mushroom Spinach Filling

Makes about 1½ cups, enough for about 16 dumplings

 

⅔	cup finely chopped spinach leaves, well-washed, and drained
1	teaspoon coarsely grated fresh ginger, preferably young ginger
2	tablespoons finely chopped scallion
1	cup coarsely chopped fresh shiitake mushroom caps
¼	teaspoon sesame oil
½	teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
¼	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a medium-size bowl and mix well. Use right away or refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 days.

Chicken Liver and Asian Greens Filling

Makes about 1½ cups, enough for about 16 dumplings

 

	Livers from 3 chickens, rinsed, patted dry, and minced (about ¾ cup)
¾	cup minced Asian greens, such as bok choy, chrysanthemum leaves or tender watercress leaves
1	tablespoon finely chopped lemon zest
1	tablespoon minced shallot
1	teaspoon smashed Szechuan peppercorns (optional, see Note [>])
1	teaspoon salt
2	teaspoons dry sherry

Combine all the ingredients in a medium-size bowl and mix well. Use right away or refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 hours.

Thai- or Vietnamese-Style Dipping Sauce

Neither one nor the other, classically speaking, this is a combination of nam prik (Thai) without the dried shrimp and nuoc cham (Vietnamese), and with less sweetening than normally desired in either of those cuisines. Like an Asian salsa, this is a table sauce, to be used for adding a sprightly note to this and that throughout the meal. The fish sauce is essential for authentic taste; you can find it in most supermarkets in the international foods section. If you can't find it, substitute an equal amount of light soy sauce mixed with ¼ teaspoon mashed anchovy fillet.

 

Makes ¾ cup

 

1	small fresh or 2 small dried red chile peppers, finely chopped
2	tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
2	tablespoons rice vinegar
2	tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)
1	small clove garlic, finely chopped
	Pinch of sugar

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside until ready to serve. This will keep at room temperature for up to 3 hours.

 

Following are two quick and easy-to-make flavor accents for Pan-Asian Steamed Dumplings ([>]). They will take the dumplings in a Chinese direction and are especially good used together, in separate dishes. Place coarsely shredded daikon radish, coarsely shredded carrot, and mint or basil leaves on a small plate next to the dishes.

Hot Mustard Paste

Makes about ¼ cup

 

2	tablespoons powdered mustard, preferably Colman's
3	tablespoons water

Place the mustard in a small bowl. Using a fork or small whisk, slowly stir in the water. Use right away or within 30 minutes.

Sweet-and-Sour Dipping Sauce

Makes ¾ cup

 

½	cup ketchup
¼	cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
2	tablespoons granulated sugar
1	teaspoon ground ginger
2	tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1	tablespoon water

1. Place all the ingredients in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly.
2. Reduce the heat to low and simmer very gently until slightly sticky, about 5 minutes. Cool and use right away or store in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 1 week.

Raviolis in Asian Pasta Wrappers

As many ways as there are to fill Asian dumplings, there are also as many for stuffing raviolis. Following are two fillings, with sauce and other filling suggestions, that work well with an Asian pasta wrap in the spirit of the Mediterranean, and a tempting list of how to go from there.