As Americans spend an average of one hour in their vehicles each day, it’s important to consider what you’ll do if your vehicle breaks down and you are stranded. Your vehicle will be your temporary shelter, and you want to be prepared if that happens. First, you’ll need to store tools to make minor adjustments and, if possible, help you get back on the road. Second, you’ll need protection from the elements.
Precautions are especially important if you are traveling long distances in open country or during the winter, when the weather can quickly change and make driving conditions treacherous. Excessive heat can also be dangerous.
First, take care of basic maintenance, servicing your vehicles regularly. Keep your gas tank at least half full, especially in the winter. Routinely top off other fluids, such as antifreeze and windshield-wiper fluid. Make sure windshield wipers, lights, and tires are in good condition.
Table 41.1
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The three road emergencies most likely to cause vehicle problems are running out of gas, a flat tire, and sliding off the road or getting stuck. For all three emergencies, you’ll need flares, flashing lights, or emergency reflective triangles and at least one good flashlight, preferably one that clamps on or mounts magnetically, or a headlamp. Insulated overalls and gloves are also nice to have. See table 41.1 for a list of items to keep in your vehicle to manage emergencies.
The solution, of course, is not letting your tank run too close to empty. Know how many miles you can go on a tank of fuel. For long trips, plan your stops for refueling, or when you refuel, look ahead to where you’ll refuel next. But no one is perfect, and running out of gas happens. Consider keeping fuel on board in an approved container, such as the ExploSafe jerrican pictured in chapter 37.
Be sure to keep a working, inflated, spare tire on hand. You will need a jack and a lug wrench to change a flat. Make sure you are familiar with how to use them. It is also useful to have a tire gauge. As an extra precaution, carry an air-compressor pump and good-quality tire-plug kit. Liquid tire repair sealants are not recommended—they may cause more problems than they fix.
If you get stuck in mud or on icy/snowy roads, several items will come in handy. You can use a shovel to clear snow or mud from around the tires. A bag or two of coarse sand, pea gravel, or even kitty litter in your car can improve traction. Deicer pellets help in icy conditions. And it’s smart to keep a tow strap and chains in your vehicle.
Frigid winter temperatures and the high heat of summer can wreak havoc with batteries, especially older or weaker batteries, so as a precaution, have a set of jumper cables. Be sure to replace batteries as they weaken.
Table 41.2
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All-Weather Emergency Supplies |
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Cold Weather |
Warm Weather |
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Being prepared requires that you respect the forces of nature. In chapter 5 (see here), I shared the tragic story of the family who perished on an innocent little trip to return their grandmother to her home after Thanksgiving. What can you do to prepare for and prevent such a catastrophe? See table 41.2 for a list of items for your vehicle to keep you safe if you are stranded.
Especially during cold weather, keep warm clothes, hand warmers, and blankets in your vehicle. Sleeping bags tightly stuffed in bags make efficient use of space. Also, be sure you have bottles of water and a few snacks.
A few days after Christmas many years ago, Jack and I, and our two-month-old baby were traveling from Western Oregon, where my family lived at the time to our home in Utah. It was a fourteen-hour trip, and we were driving it in one day. Our car started having serious engine problems halfway into the trip, and by the time we were in the middle of cold, wind-swept Idaho, we were barely limping along. Our gas mileage was really suffering, and about five miles out of Burley, Idaho, the worst happened—our car sputtered and we coasted to a stop on the shoulder of the freeway. Now what? I felt panicky—no roadside assistance, no way to call for help, below-freezing temperatures, and nothing but to rely on the compassion of strangers. Luckily, in just a short time, a nice guy stopped to see if we needed help. He was kind enough to take Jack to the next town to get a can of gas. While I waited, I was grateful for warm blankets for my baby and a warm coat for myself. It ended well for us, but I’ve always remembered how vulnerable I felt.
The most important warm-weather survival item is water. You should have at least two quarts per person, store them out of the sunlight, and rotate them frequently. The ideal place is in a dry cooler inside the trunk. Also use a windshield heat reflector to keep heat from radiating into the car.
Consider joining a roadside service, such as AAA, especially if you travel extensively or in remote areas. Their assistance can ease minor inconveniences and make a difference in an emergency. A satellite assistance such as Onstar is also helpful in an emergency. Plans vary and cost between $150 and $350 a year.
Your transportation needs will vary depending on the type of crisis you face. You may simply need alternative transportation for routine activities during a crisis. Or you may need to temporarily evacuate your home and quickly move your family and a few possessions. Or perhaps you foresee the need to get away to a distant location or retreat during a prolonged crisis. This may require that you be prepared to travel a long distance.
Various options for transportation are discussed in this chapter. As you consider them, try to imagine what your transportation needs will likely be during a crisis. No single mode of transportation will be ideal for every circumstance, and it is likely that several transportation options could benefit you.
It makes sense that any vehicle you choose for preparedness should also fill multiple purposes in your everyday life. Consider a general-use vehicle that is capable of hauling loads and towing. Heavy-duty pickup trucks, sport utility vehicles (SUV), and heavy-duty vans are best for the job. Pick the one that best accommodates the combination of passenger and cargo space you require.
In 1978, Jack and I bought a brand-new Chevy Blazer, but really, it was his vehicle. He very purposefully considered all the options he would get in this SUV. He saw this as a survival vehicle even back then and was deliberate about his choices. He somehow convinced me that we should not get air conditioning in it—too much could go wrong with it, and he wanted to keep it as simple and fixable as possible. He chose options to make it a tough machine—at least in 1978. It came with four-wheel drive, heavy-duty front springs, heavy-duty shock absorbers, engine-oil cooler, an extra-capacity fuel tank, a cold-weather package, a trailering package, and heavy-duty tires. He didn’t choose options that made it look “bad” but internal options that made it functional and durable. Now, over forty years later, my son has the Blazer and is updating all the systems. The pretty, metallic-red exterior is sun-faded, and the buckskin interior is worn, but this vintage vehicle is still a solid little SUV.
If you’re concerned about being able to get to a safe place or retreat, you’ll want a vehicle that is dependable and able to safely carry the expected load of passengers and gear. Ideally, it should have good ground clearance and be able to travel off-road and navigate ice and snow and other perilous road conditions. It must also have adequate fuel capacity to travel the distance required.
Table 41.3
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These criteria eliminate nearly all passenger cars and, again, suggest heavy-duty pickups, SUVs, and heavy-duty vans. A three-quarter- or one-ton pickup truck is best if you plan to pull a big load. See the Quick Look “Options in a Survival Vehicle” for the things to look for in a “survival” vehicle. See the Table 41.3 for the things to look for in a “survival” vehicle.
Although modern vehicles have the advantage of newer parts and come loaded with many options, they also have computers and an increased complexity that might make it hard to diagnose and fix problems. One solution is to acquire an older model with fewer electronics and simpler mechanical features, though the engine, transmission, differential, driveline, wiring, suspension, braking, and cooling systems may need to be repaired or refurbished so the vehicle is in proper working condition. If you have the time and want to completely refurbish an old model yourself, you can guarantee your vehicle is in top condition and learn the skills necessary for upkeep and repair.
Up to this point, we have discussed the value of full-size SUVs, and heavy-duty trucks and vans. If you are more concerned about cost and fuel economy and really do not need one of these big vehicles, look for a smaller work vehicle with some of the same capabilities.
Diesel engines may be preferred because of their better fuel economy, longer engine life, and especially engine torque and pulling power. However, they cost more and require special tools and training for maintenance and repair. And the biggest downside in a crisis is that because they burn diesel, it might be difficult to get fuel. Not only are there fewer diesel pumps, but in a major crisis, there is a good chance diesel will be rationed and available only for long-haul trucks that transport necessities and disaster-relief supplies.
What about four-wheel drive (4WD)? It will depend on your situation and what your needs are. The gap between four-wheel drive and two-wheel drive is narrowing as two-wheel-drive trucks now come with the same suspension as four-wheel. Two-wheel-drive vehicles can be modified for higher ground clearance, improved traction, and improved suspension. They can also be equipped with locking differentials and other off-road equipment. Two-wheel-drive vehicles with a locking differential can be almost as effective as four-wheel drive in many situations. Careful driving and skill can also minimize the need for a four-wheel drive.
A four-wheel drive is helpful for towing loads if there is poor traction or for slippery surfaces. They definitely have the edge in extreme weather conditions and for off-road driving where traction is limited. However, they cost more and use more fuel. They are also more complicated and may require more specialized maintenance. If you do decide to get a four-wheel drive, consider getting one with solid front and rear axles. Solid axles are simpler, stronger, and easier to maintain and service.
If you decide to go with a four-wheel drive, consider differential lockers. They can mitigate the effects of low or no traction. By locking the differential, the wheels on the same axle spin together. This can be helpful in mud, snow, ice, sand, or other low-traction terrain.
Some four-wheel drives come equipped with rear differential lockers, but they can be added aftermarket as well. Generally, automatic lockers are more reliable, but manual lockers give the driver more control. The mechanisms used to engage the locker (air compressors or electrical switches and wire) add a level of complexity that increases potential failure of the system.
Most vehicles today come with automatic transmissions—fewer than 2 percent have standard (manual) transmissions. However, you might consider a standard transmission if you’re looking for simplicity because they are simpler to fix and can be maintained with basic tools. They are also less expensive to begin with.
Automatic transmissions, on the other hand, require specialized tools and training to properly maintain or repair. It is beyond the skill of most mechanics to repair automatic transmissions, let alone the average casual mechanic. However, if cared for properly, the automatic transmissions in today’s vehicles are very reliable and seldom need repairs. It used to be that standard transmissions got better gas mileage, but that is not the case with today’s automatic transmissions, which get as good, or better, gas mileage.
When fuel economy is important in selecting a vehicle, it may be less critical than other objectives. If you may have to service and maintain the vehicle yourself, choose simplicity. Be sure to have plenty of spare parts and select a common model so those parts are easier to acquire.
A towing package will come with heavy-duty suspension, a receiver/hitch for towing, and heavy-duty brakes. A winch is worth considering to help with rescue or getting unstuck. A power-takeoff (PTO) winch is preferred, but an electric one is a viable option. A manually operated come-along provides some of the same benefit as a winch at much less cost.
Get the highest-rated battery available. A dual battery is preferred if available to provide backup and to power electronics and communications without endangering restarting. Get the heaviest-duty alternator and cooling system (radiator, water pump, fan). If you live in a cold climate, get a cold-weather package.
You may want a heavy-duty rear bumper, skid plates, and possibly a front brush guard and roll bar. Also, you may want to consider buying an oversized fuel tank or having an auxiliary fuel tank installed. Tires should be load-bearing, all-terrain type and mounted on steel rims. Finally, you may want an inconspicuous color for the exterior so as not to draw attention.
If you expect to maintain your vehicle during an extended crisis, you’ll need adequate tools, supplies, and spare parts. The lists in tables 41.4, 41.5, and 41.6 are quite comprehensive, and you’ll need to decide which items you should acquire and store for vehicle maintenance. At the minimum, store the tools and supplies necessary for changing your oil and oil filter and for repairing, changing, and rotating your tires.
Your decision about which tools to store will depend on your skill level and to what extent you are likely to maintain and repair your vehicles during a crisis. It will also depend on how self-reliant you anticipate being. If you are not inclined to repair your own vehicles, just store those tools you feel are necessary for simple maintenance and safety. (See Table 41.4.)
Table 41.4
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Maintenance and Repair |
Safety and Comfort |
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You may also need basic supplies to repair and maintain your vehicles. Even if you are not skilled in maintaining your vehicles, you may want to keep these supplies handy so that a person with skills can help you. (See table 41.5.)
Table 41.5
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Some spare parts are necessary for regular vehicle maintenance. Others you may want in case a major part fails. Become an expert on your vehicle and store the spare parts that commonly break down, along with any special tools. Consult a good mechanic and check the evaluations in off-road magazines.
Use online videos and join internet auto forums for your vehicle to learn how to maintain and repair it. During a crisis, you may not be able to access internet sources, so get a detailed factory repair manual for each vehicle. The repair manuals by Chilton and Haynes are also good. Table 41.6 lists common spare parts that may need to be replaced.
Table 41.6
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If you acquire a heavy-duty off-road vehicle and use it as it was intended, you may occasionally need to make structural repairs on the mounts and frame. Explore the possibility of welding your own repairs. Since most welding is electric, you’ll need a reliable power source, such as a generator. You might also consider braze-welding with torches, although this method requires oxygen and acetylene tanks, which may not be refillable in a crisis. Portable MIG welding kits that use rechargeable batteries are also an option.
Begin by organizing tools and supplies into categories, such as hand tools, tools for tire repair, tools for getting unstuck, etc. Use toolboxes or totes for the various types of tools. You will likely want to store some of the tools in your vehicle. Others should be available for easy access in case of evacuation.
Batteries are responsible for more “no-go” situations than any other vehicle component. Since nearly all batteries are almost impossible to repair or rebuild, store one or two spares. Optimally, they should be stored in a maintenance charger, which is a device that monitors your battery’s charge and keeps the charge from falling below 12.4 volts. Extra batteries should be stored in dry, cool locations.
Consider storing extra tires. How many will depend on your perceived needs. The spare tire in most vehicles is intended as a temporary solution, and so you cannot rely on it for long-term use. It’s a good idea to have an extra set of all-season tires designed for your type of vehicle. Ideally, they should be stored on a second set of rims because mounting and balancing tires can be challenging. If you live in a winter climate, your spare set could be a winter-/snow-tire set. Select the largest size suggested by the factory for your vehicle with the highest mileage range possible. You may want high-performance or all-terrain tires. Avoid oversized tires, which can cause additional stress on the steering components.
Tires should be stored in a clean, dark, cool, dry location, preferably in plastic bags. Remove as much air from the bags as possible and secure with tape. This will help prevent the loss of lubricating oil in the tires. Store upright if possible, but stacking is also all right if they are not stacked too tall. Ideally, prior to storage, tires should be mounted, inflated to operating pressure, spun balanced, and deflated to about ten psi. If tires are mounted, they can be hung from hooks, but hanging unmounted tires will distort them.
Tires should not be stored near petroleum products or electrical equipment. Electrical equipment produces ozone, which damages the rubber.
If you’re going to store a vehicle for a long time, use a dark, dry, and cool location. Siphon out as much fuel as possible and run until completely dry. Remove the battery. Drain all the coolant from the radiator, flush the cooling system, and refill it with fresh coolant. Change the oil and oil filter, loosen all belts, and place the vehicle on blocks to prevent the tires from flat spotting.
If you want to store fuel for the vehicles, see chapter 37.
Trailers can be used to increase the load capacity of vehicles. Standard trailers are an option for basic transporting, but they can be difficult to maneuver and turn, and their ground clearance is usually poor if you need to travel over rough terrain. However, there are several heavy-duty utility trailers made to handle off-road hauling.
Morris Mule Trailer Company offers several field- and trail-grade trailers. Located in Anniston, Alabama, their trailers are simple, strong, and flexible. They also sell do-it-yourself frames so you can build a custom trailer.
The Xventure line of off-road trailers made by Schutt industries are “severe” off-road trailers and military inspired. One of their models is pictured.
A moped is a small motorcycle that uses pedals for starting. They usually use a one to two horsepower 50cc engine and will drive up to forty miles per hour. They weigh about a hundred pounds and can get eighty to two hundred miles per gallon.
Although the name implies motor and pedal, they are much harder to pedal than a regular bicycle. Get one with full suspension, a multi- or variable-speed transmission, and some way to carry cargo.
Scooters are also small motorcycles but without pedals. They weigh more and go faster than mopeds.
Like mopeds and scooters, off-road dirt bikes get excellent gas mileage. They are quick and maneuverable and excellent for getting around when roads get clogged and pathways are narrow. On the negative side, they are noisy, can carry only one other person and very little gear, and offer little protection from the elements or an attack. They should be under 250cc so that they will not be too heavy or hard to control in off-road use.
ATVs weigh 160 to three hundred pounds, have 50cc to 700cc engines, get around fifty miles per gallon, and can hit speeds of over seventy miles per hour. They go in sand, mud, ice, or snow and can haul small loads over rough terrain.
Snowmobiles and tracked all-terrain vehicles can be used in winter conditions.
The Rungu Electric Juggernaut is a battery-powered, pedal-assisted, bicycle-like trike designed for off-road travel. It navigates sand, mud, and snow with ease. It is quiet, which is important if concealment is important to you. It is also more maneuverable and stable than a four-wheeler. The battery range is 15 miles, and the upper speed is 35 mph. It will carry 375 pounds (including the rider), and there are several versions ranging in price from $2,500 to $6,000.
Transportation modes independent of stored fuel supplies could become valuable if stored fuel supplies are all used. They are also valuable as backup systems. There are several options to consider.
Bicycles are the most common and efficient mode of self-powered transportation and would be excellent during a prolonged crisis if chosen wisely. The best choice is an all-terrain mountain bike. Most are made with an extremely strong, lightweight material and have multi-gears, oversized brakes, and suspension systems.
Table 41.7
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Be sure to add a luggage-carrier rack, folding side baskets, or saddlebags for carrying loads. Also, mount a pedal generator and light. Be sure to store spare parts (see table 41.7).
Consider buying or building a two-wheeled bike trailer for hauling loads up to one hundred pounds.
A pedal-assist bicycle, sometimes called an e-bike or throttle-assisted bicycle, uses electric power to help provide propulsion. A battery-powered electric motor helps the cyclist pedal the bike. The motor assist may be on either the back or front hub, where it either pushes or pulls the bicycle, or it may be in the center and integrated with the crank and gears, which makes it more efficient and better for climbing hills. Most electric bicycles use lithium batteries, which are lighter in weight and have a longer charge and lifespan than lead-acid batteries. Prices begin around $1,000, but expect prices to continue to go down.
Horses and mules can be used for riding, packing loads, or doing work around a homestead, like plowing and pulling wagons. A good horse can cover forty miles a day over rough terrain and more than twice that in an emergency. A packhorse or mule can carry one-fifth of its weight in gear or supplies, and a team will allow you to farm fifty to one hundred acres. Stallions are more difficult to control than geldings but are more desirable to breed with mares.
A mule has more endurance than a horse, makes a better pack animal, and is a good choice for draft work. Along with burros, they are more adaptable than horses to drier, less-vegetated areas.
Table 41.8
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Stalls are usually twelve feet square. Horses also need at least eight hundred square feet of corral and prefer two to four acres for grazing. Depending on the quality of grazing available, you may need to supplement that with up to two tons of grains, three tons of hay, and fifty pounds of salt for each horse per year. For a list of horse tack to store, see table 41.8.
If you expect to shoe your own animals, you’ll need horseshoes and nails plus a forge, hammers, tongs, and files. If you’ll want to haul loads, you’ll need a wagon or cart with harnesses and hitches.
Store worming supplies and other medications to keep your animals healthy, and have them properly vaccinated. Daily exercise is important to keep them in good condition too.
In areas with lots of snow, sled dogs can be a good form of transportation. A good dog can pull about two to three times his own weight at ten to twelve miles per hour for extended periods. You will need a freight sled, tow lines, and harnesses. They can also be used to pull carts when there is no snow and can carry approximately one-third of their weight. Sled dogs eat about 750 pounds of dog food per year!
Skis and snowshoes can be effective for short-distance winter transportation. For cross-country travel, backcountry or alpine touring skis are best. They are lightweight and designed for varying terrain. Although regular cross-country skis can be used, the heavier mountain skis allow the use of heavy boots and are preferred. Ski skins give additional traction for mountaineering. Snowshoes are better in hilly terrain and not as dependent on the condition of the snow. Store snow goggles or glasses to protect eyes and prevent snow blindness.
Carts can be useful around the homestead for hauling heavy loads of dirt, compost and firewood. They can also be used as a last resort for carrying a sizeable number of belongings over long distances. Large tires help in rough terrain and a suitable cart can be homemade using twenty-six-inch bicycle tires or plastic motocross bike wheels. A waterproof tarp or other top is also beneficial.
The Polymule utility cart (pictured) is a high-performance utility handcart that is designed with uphill assist. It will carry 400 pounds over rough terrain. It also has a cargo carrier option for attaching to a vehicle.