THE RIVIERA MAYA
Cancún may be the name everyone recognizes, but for many people—especially repeat visitors—the best of Mexico’s Caribbean coast is the Riviera Maya. Stretching more than 130 kilometers (80 miles) south from Cancún to Tulum, the Riviera Maya is home to fast-growing cities like Playa del Carmen, low-key towns like Puerto Morelos, and tiny beachfront settlements like Tankah Tres. It boasts megaresorts and tiny bed-and-breakfasts and is flanked by the world’s longest underground river on one side and the world’s second-longest coral reef on the other. And of course the Riviera Maya has the same spectacular beaches Cancún is famous for; in fact, many of the Riviera’s beaches seem to have gotten even wider and more glorious than ever.
There’s plenty to see and do, much of it do-it-yourself: go snorkeling in freshwater cenotes and lagoons, help release newly hatched sea turtles into the sea, explore little-visited Maya ruins, or spend the day at a family-friendly ecopark. For party hounds, Cancún still has a lock on over-the-top nightspots, but there are plenty of places to cut loose in the Riviera Maya, especially lounge bars, beach clubs, and resort nightclubs. (Besides, you can always hop a shuttle to Cancún or join a club crawl if you really need a Dady-O fix.)
With so many options, the main trouble here may be fitting it all in. Then again, when you’re vacationing in a place as beautiful as the Riviera Maya, doing nothing may well be the highlight of your trip!
HIGHLIGHTS
Puerto Morelos’s Coral Reef: Skip the tourist-trap snorkeling trips in Cancún and Playa del Carmen and go snorkeling where the reef is still healthy, the water uncrowded, and the price unbeatable. Book a tour with a local dive shop or the long-operating fishermen’s cooperative (
Coral Reef).
Playa del Carmen’s Quinta Avenida: Ever growing yet wonderfully walkable, Playa’s 5th Avenue has block after block of tempting restaurants, hipster boutiques, and lively bars. The ferry and bus terminals are at the busy southern end, while the northern end is cooler and quieter, with a distinctive European flair (
Quinta Avenida).
Playa del Carmen’s Beaches and Beach Clubs: Playa’s beaches are already among the Riviera Maya’s most beautiful, and its beach clubs–with lounge chairs and beach beds for rent, wait service on the sand, lockers and changing rooms, even swimming pools and the occasional DJ–make them some of the most enjoyable, too (
Beaches and Beach Clubs).
Xcaret: The Riviera Maya’s elaborate ecoparks are a hit with parents looking for a safe, active, friendly place to take the kids. Xcaret is the most ambitious of them all, with tubing and snorkeling, an aquarium and animal enclosures, orchid greenhouse, and an end-of-the-day extravaganza performance (
Xcaret).
Laguna Yal-Ku: A long elbow of water fed by freshwater cenotes and draining into the ocean, this Akumal-area lagoon is a snorkeler favorite for its colorful fish and jumble of underwater rocks. Curious bronze statues dot the rocky shore, and parking and changing areas make visiting here a cinch (
Laguna Yal-Ku).
LOOK FOR 
TO FIND RECOMMENDED SIGHTS, ACTIVITIES, DINING, AND LODGING.
Playa Xcacel: Just off the highway down an easy-to-miss sand road, this glorious stretch of white-sand beach has nary a beach bed or banana boat in sight. The secret? It’s a major sea-turtle nesting area and protected from development –at least for now (
PLAYA XCACEL).
THE RIVIERA MAYA
With a view like this, it’s no wonder travelers come back to Xpu-Há so often.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
You’ll probably want to pick a home base (or two) for your time here and make day trips from there. Playa del Carmen is the area’s only real city, with all the expected urban amenities, including nightlife. (It’s also the gateway to Isla Cozumel.) Puerto Morelos and Akumal are smaller but still have a decent selection of hotels and restaurants. (In fact, if you’re a foodie, Puerto Morelos has a surprising number of first-rate restaurants.) If isolation is more important than convenience, the Riviera Maya has some secret getaways, like Xpu-Há and Tankah Tres. If you’ve got a week or more, consider spending half your time in the northern section—around Playa del Carmen, for example—and then move farther south, to enjoy Akumal, Tankah Tres, and even Tulum.
A rental car isn’t absolutely necessary but will certainly make exploring the Riviera Maya a lot easier. Cheap public shuttles zip up and down the coast, but they only stop along the highway, which in most places is about a kilometer (0.6 mile) from the ocean. That leaves you to make the hot dusty walk up and down the access roads, especially in more rural areas where taxis are uncommon.
Puerto Morelos
Somehow little Puerto Morelos has escaped the megadevelopment that has swept up and down the Riviera Maya, despite being squeezed between the booming cities of Cancún and Playa del Carmen. It remains, for the most part, a quiet seaside town. Yes, the town fills up with foreign tourists in the high season—and more and more condos and resorts are cropping up—but it is still a place where a substantial part of the local population lives by fishing, where life revolves around the central plaza, and where kids and dogs romp in the streets.
The beach in Puerto Morelos has improved significantly in the last few years, and more and more travelers are spending lazy afternoons in the sun and sand. But Puerto Morelos is best known for the reef system just offshore. Local residents fought tirelessly (and successfully) to have a large section in front of town designated a national reserve, and as a result the snorkeling and diving are superb. A town cooperative and several local dive shops offer tours of various sorts, most highly recommended and quite affordable. Puerto Morelos also is gaining popularity as a destination for yoga and meditation groups—no surprise given its serene atmosphere—and a growing number of hotels and resorts cater to that market.
Be aware that the low season here is very low, and many businesses close in May, September, and/or October.
SIGHTS
Playa Principal
The main beach at Puerto Morelos is quite pleasant; there are still some areas that are rocky or have sea grass, but it’s a big improvement over years past. There still aren’t any beach clubs of the sort popular in Playa del Carmen and elsewhere, but it’s just as easy to stroll down the beach until you find a spot to plant your towel and umbrella.
Puerto Morelos’s main pier is the jumping-off place for affordable and rewarding snorkeling trips to the nearby reef.
PUERTO MORELOS
Coral Reef
Puerto Morelos’s most spectacular attraction is snorkeling on the reef. Directly in front of the village, around 500 meters (0.3 mile) offshore, the reef here takes on gargantuan dimensions—up to 30 meters (99 feet) wide. Winding passages and large caverns alive with fish and sea flora make for great exploring. And since it’s a marine reserve and fishing and motor traffic are limited, the reef is more pristine here than almost any place along the Riviera. A local cooperative (central plaza, Av. Rafaél Melgar s/n, no phone, 9 A.M.–3 P.M. Mon.–Sat., US$25 pp for 2 hours) offers guided tours of the reef, with boats leaving every 30 minutes—or sooner, if there are four snorkelers—from the municipal pier.
The Central Plaza
Puerto Morelos’s peaceful central plaza has always been a highlight of the town, but a facelift has made it even more appealing. New paint, better landscaping, and an improved play structure for kids make it a great place to while away the early evening hours, especially for families. Locals and visitors alike mingle on shaded benches and in the bleachers facing the basketball court (whose baskets cleverly double as soccer goal posts). Many of Puerto Morelos’s best restaurants face the plaza or are just a block away, so you’re sure to pass by more than once. On Sunday, a small tian-guis (flea market) is held here, and you can have fun browsing through someone else’s old treasures.
Ruta de los Cenotes
Marked by an enormous mustard yellow arch on Highway 307, the “Cenote Route” is one of the newest developments along the Riviera Maya, and a sign, for better or for worse, that the megaresorts are finally starting to appreciate cenotes. The route is simply a paved road, which begins just south of Puerto Morelos and extends nearly 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) into the scrub forest, passing several cenotes along the way. The most popular stops, at least for tour groups, are cenotes like Boca del Puma and Selvática, which also have ATV tours, zip lines, paintball…you get the picture. But the route also has some true gems: gorgeous and remote cenotes, undeveloped and all but overlooked by the package tours, and well worth the drive to reach them.
Independent travelers will particularly enjoy Siete Bocas (Carr. Pto. Morelos–Vallarta Km. 16, no phone, 8 A.M.–4 P.M. daily, US$10 including life vest), so named for its seven openings (or “mouths”). Three openings have steep stairways leading straight into the cool, clear water; the other four allow sunlight into the underground chamber, lighting up the water dramatically, especially around midday. Inside, you can swim or float through the cave, with its spectacular stalagmites and stalactites, often with no one else around (BYO snorkel gear). Most visitors stay only a short time, but camping is permitted on-site (US$16 pp), just a few meters from the cenote.
Just down the road from Siete Bocas is Lucerno Verde (Carr. Pto. Morelos–Vallarta Km. 17, cell. tel. 998/224-3731, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily, US$5 including life vest), an open-air cenote surrounded by huge tropical trees. Completely different from its neighbor but no less dramatic, Lucerno Verde is like an enormous swimming hole with clear turquoise water and seemingly no bottom. There’s a zip line as well as a thick safety line stretching across the cenote. Look for the freshwater turtles that make their home here. Camping is permitted here, too (US$10 pp).
Croco Cun Zoo
This charming little tropical petting zoo (Hwy. 307, tel. 998/850-3719, www.crococunzoo.com, 9 A.M.–5 P.M. daily, US$23 adult, US$14 child 6–12, free under 6) is located five kilometers (3.1 miles) north of the Puerto Morelos turnoff. Seventy-five-minute guided tours, offered in English or Spanish, bring visitors up close and personal to all sorts of local creatures—if you’re up for it, you can feed spider monkeys on your shoulder (food appropriate for the animals is sold for US$2 per bag), walk through a crocodile enclosure, and hold boas, iguanas, and baby crocs. Don’t forget your camera. Well managed and relatively affordable—compare this to swimming with the dolphins!—Croco Cun is a hit for youngsters and adults alike.
Ya’ax Ché Jardín Botánico
A half kilometer (0.75 mile) south of the Puerto Morelos turnoff is a peaceful botanical garden (Hwy. 307 Km. 320, tel. 998/206-9233, www.ecosur.mx, 8 A.M.–4 P.M. daily Nov.–Apr., 9 A.M.–5 P.M. daily May–Oct., US$8.50 adults, US$4.25 children), study center, and tree nursery spread over 60 hectares (150 acres). Two kilometers (1.2 miles) of trails wind beneath a canopy of trees and past many of the peninsula’s plants and flowers, each with its name labeled in English, Spanish, and Latin. Habitats vary from semievergreen tropical forest to mangrove swamp. Look for the epiphyte area, with a variety of orchids, tillandsias, and bromeliads. As you wander around, you’ll also find a re-creation of a Maya chiclero camp (showing how chicle was harvested to be used in chewing gum), a few ruins from the Post-Classic period, and a contemporary Maya hut illustrating day-to-day life—from cooking facilities to hammocks. Wear long sleeves, pants, and closed-toe shoes, and definitely bring bug repellent—the mosquitoes can be fierce, especially in the late afternoon and after it rains. Private guided tours also available for an additional US$12.50 per group.
SHOPPING
A so-called Sunday Jungle Market (Calle 2, Zona Urbana, tel. 998/208-9148, 9:30 A.M.–2 P.M. Sun., Dec.–Easter only) is held at Casa Cacahuate bed-and-breakfast in the residential part of Puerto Morelos, on the other side of the highway. This cheerful family-friendly event is facilitated by the nonprofit founded by the bed-and-breakfast’s owners. The market includes a variety of handicrafts produced by local women, as well as tasty food and drink. A traditional Maya dance is held at 11:30 A.M.
The artisans’ market of Hunab Kú (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, 9 A.M.–8 P.M. daily) may be your best bet for finding handicrafts in Puerto Morelos. Here you’ll find a bunch of stands with colorful blankets, ceramics, hammocks, masks, jipi hats, shell art…pretty much anything you’ll see sold up and down the coast.
The best and largest English-language bookstore on the peninsula, Alma Libre Bookstore (central plaza, tel. 998/251-1206, www.almalibrebooks.com, 10 A.M.–3 P.M. and 6–9 P.M. daily, closed June–mid-Nov.) has a whopping 20,000 titles, ranging from “beach trash to Plato,” in the words of the friendly Canadian owners. There’s Maya culture, Mexican cooking, learning Spanish, bird-watching, snorkeling guides, classics, philosophy, mysteries, fiction, nonfiction—not just in English but Spanish, French, German, Dutch, Italian, Norwegian, and more. Books are both new and used, and trade-ins (two for one) are accepted. The store also has a wide selection of guidebooks and maps; check the website for tons of additional information or sign up for their email newsletter.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Snorkeling
Puerto Morelos is justly famous for its snorkeling, with a protected stretch of coral reef running very near shore. A local cooperative (central plaza, Av. Rafaél Melgar s/n, no phone, 9 A.M.–3 P.M. Mon.–Sat.) offers excellent and affordable guided tours, visiting two spots on the reef for 45 minutes apiece, and using boats with sunshades. Prices are fixed: US$25 per person, including equipment, park fees, and a bottle of water. Boats leave every 30 minutes from the municipal pier; if there are fewer than three people, you’ll have to wait up to 30 minutes (but no more) for additional passengers to come. Sign up at the cooperative’s kiosk at the northeast corner of the plaza; late morning is the best time to go, as the sun is high but the afternoon winds haven’t started.
The dive shops in town also offer snorkeling tours. Dive In Puerto Morelos (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez 14, tel. 998/206-9084, www.diveinpuertomorelos.com, 8 A.M.–7 P.M. Mon.–Sat.) offers a tour similar to the cooperative’s for US$30, while Wet Set Water Adventures (Hotel Ojo de Agua, Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, tel. 998/871-0198, www.wetset.com, 8 A.M.–2 P.M. daily) offers outings of various lengths, from just one site (45 minutes, US$16 pp) to three (2.5 hours, US$32 pp). Prices include snorkel gear and park fee.
Caution: Do not swim to the reef from anywhere along the beach. Although it’s close enough for strong swimmers to reach, boats use the channel between the reef and the shore, and tourists have been struck and killed in the past.
Scuba Diving
Puerto Morelos has over two dozen dive sites within a 15-minute boat ride, virtually all in protected marine reserve waters. Add to that the nearby cenotes, plus night and wreck diving, and divers have plenty to keep them happy and interested. The dive shops in town—there were three at last count—tend to have small groups and offer a full range of fun dives and certification courses. Prices are fairly uniform—roughly US$50/75 for one/two tanks, and US$370 for open-water certification—though some shops don’t include equipment rentals in the rate. Reservations are strongly recommended in the high season.
Dive In Puerto Morelos (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez 14, tel. 998/206-9084, www.diveinpuertomorelos.com, 8 A.M.–7 P.M. Mon.–Sat.) is run by a friendly American dive instructor who emphasizes safety and small groups. It’s a great choice for divers of all levels.
Wet Set Water Adventures (Hotel Ojo de Agua, Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, tel. 998/871-0198, www.wetset.com, 8 A.M.–2 P.M. daily) is one of the longest-running dive shops around, offering top-to-bottom service—even rinsing your gear—and extensive area expertise. Equipment rentals are extra.
Almost Heaven Adventures (tel. 998/871-0230, www.almostheavenadventures.com) is the in-house shop at Ceiba del Mar hotel (1.5 kilometers/0.9 mile north of town, 8 A.M.–3 P.M. Mon.–Sat.) but also has a down-town location (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. Mon.–Sat.) a half block north of the central plaza.
Sportfishing
The dive shops in Puerto Morelos also offer fishing trips, whether trolling for barracuda or dorado (even marlin) or dropping a line for “dinner fish” like grouper or snapper. Wet Set Water Adventures (Hotel Ojo de Agua, Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, tel. 998/871-0198, www.wetset.com, 8 A.M.–2 P.M. daily) has the most experience and even guarantees you’ll catch fish on a five-hour trip or the trip is free (except for the fishing license and taxes). Trips for 2–4 people typically cost US$55 per hour (minimum 2 hours) or US$195 for 4–5 hours. A local cooperative (central plaza, Av. Rafaél Melgar s/n, no phone, 9 A.M.–3 P.M. Mon.–Sat.) also offers trolling and bottom fishing trips for up to four people (US$175 for 3 hours, US$250 for 4–5 hours).
Tours
Ecab Explorer (cell. tel. 998/123-5062, http://ekaabts.spaces.live.com) is a one-man tour operation launched by a longtime Puerto Morelos resident (and former purveyor of fine shrimp tacos). Among various recommended tours are Dos Aguas (Two Waters, US$50 pp, 4 hours), which includes snorkeling on the ocean reef and a nearby freshwater cenote, and Cobá Maya (US$100 pp, 9 hours), in which you visit Cobá ruins plus a nearby Maya village and monkey reserve; check the website for details on these and other options. Groups are small and the service highly personalized; transportation, entrance fees, and lunch and/or soft drinks are all included.
Spa
The Jungle Spa Sandra (Casa Cacahuate, Calle 2, Zona Urbana, tel. 998/208-9148, www.mayaecho.com, 10 A.M.–3:30 P.M. Tues.–Sat., Sun. by appointment only) is one of several community projects undertaken by Lu’um K’aa Nab, a nonprofit run by the owners of Casa Cacahuate. Local women provide professional massage and traditional Maya treatments for far less than at ordinary spas. Treat yourself to one of various available treatments, from a four-handed full-body massage (US$80, 1 hour) to a chocolate body wrap and massage (US$60, 1 hour). Group massage or te-mascal (traditional Maya sweat lodge) also can be arranged with advance notice. A cab ride from Puerto Morelos’s central plaza runs about US$4.50.
Yoga
Drop-in yoga classes are offered at Villa Shanti (Av. Niños Héroes s/n, tel. 998/871-0040, www.villasshanti.com, US$5) every Tuesday and Thursday 7–8:30 A.M. Yoga retreats also are often held here—check the website for more information.
Cooking Classes
The Little Mexican Cooking School (Calle Andrés Quintana Roo 779A, tel. 998/251-8060, www.thelittlemexicancookingschool.com, 10 A.M.–3 P.M. Mon.–Fri. Oct.–Aug., US$110 pp, including complimentary recipe book and apron) offers a fun and unique introduction to Mexican cuisine. Smallish classes (6 minimum, 12 maximum) begin with light breakfast and a discussion of Mexican food and ingredients, followed by recipe demonstrations a half dozen dishes, from mango salsa to chicken mole. Students get some hands-on experience, though the chef and assistants do most of the actual cooking. You do get to taste everything, of course, at an end-of-class luncheon.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Under US$50
Hotel Eden (Av. Andrés Quintana Roo near Calle Lázaro Cardenas, tel. 998/871-0450, www.puertomoreloseden.com, US$40 studio with kitchenette, US$50 studio with a/c and kitchenette) may not be the paradise its name suggests—in fact, it’s quite stark, in its cement and white-washed way—but remains an excellent budget option all the same. Spacious studios have cable TV, clean hot-water bathrooms, and small but fully equipped kitchenettes (even a blender and coffee machine); 2nd-floor units have air-con in the bedroom, too. That, plus the hotel is located on a quiet street just two blocks from the beach—a real deal for just 50 bucks.
Casa Cacahuate (Calle 2, Zona Urbana, tel. 998/208-9148, www.mayaecho.com, US$30 s, US$50 d, breakfast included) is a bed-and-breakfast located in Puerto Morelos’s “residential area” on the inland side of the highway, offering a rare opportunity to experience the nontouristed side of the Riviera Maya. Homey even by bed-and-breakfast standards, the house has two tidy guest rooms upstairs and the personable owners below, all sharing a palapa-covered terrace, outdoor sitting area, and ample gardens with enticing hammocks and chairs. The owners maintain close ties with the community and host a popular crafts market and Jungle Spa on-site. The beach and central plaza are a bit of a hike—the main drawback to staying here—but taxis are plentiful and relatively affordable (e.g., US$4.50 to the central plaza or beach).
US$50–100
Operated by a friendly English-speaking family, Posada El Moro (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez near central plaza, tel. 998/871-0159, www.posadaelmoro.com, US$60 s/d, US$70 s/d with a/c, US$75–80 s/d with a/c and TV, US$90 suite with a/c, TV, and kitchenette) is a homey hotel and a great deal to boot. It has 18 brightly painted units with polished cement floors, comfortable beds, and plenty of natural light. There’s free Wi-Fi in the lobby, plus a pleasant little pool surrounded by hammocks and lounge chairs for relaxing. Continental breakfast is available to guests every morning, too.
Located on a residential block, Hotel Mexicoplus (Av. Niños Héroes s/n, tel. 998/871-0232, www.mexicoplus.com, US$50 s/d, US$60 s/d with a/c) offers simple rooms with minifridge and cable TV. Units are a bit stuffy, some even musty smelling, though opening the windows helps a ton. There is a restaurant on the ground floor where complimentary breakfast is served.
Rancho Sak Ol (1 kilometer/0.6 mile south of the central plaza, tel. 998/871-0181, www.ranchosakol.com, US$95 s/d with or without a/c, US$135 suite, two-night minimum) is a relaxing palapa hideaway a short distance south of town. Rooms have hanging beds—which are actually quite stable—and individual patios with hammocks. Downstairs units have air-conditioning, while upstairs rooms have cross breezes. A large buffet breakfast is included, and guests can use the well-stocked community kitchen; for eating out, the town is an easy 15-minute walk away. The beach here is just okay—very clean, with good snorkeling offshore, but with rather thin sand and boxed in by the cargo ferry on one side and a huge condo complex on the other. Still, there’s enough breathing room so as not to spoil Rancho Sak Ol’s quiet, isolated feel. The resort is for adults only, except during the low season and Christmas, when children over the age of 10 are welcome. The use of snorkel equipment and bicycles also is included in the rate.
Club Marviya (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez near Calle Lázaro Cardenas, tel. 998/871-0049, www.marviya.com, US$75–96 s/d including breakfast, US$110 studio with a/c and kitchenette) is a laid-back place with six rooms and a communal kitchen, plus larger studio apartments a short distance away. The hotel rooms are located within a converted hacienda-style mansion just a few steps from the beach. They have firm beds, tile floors, and—except one on the 1st floor—ocean views (albeit small ones) from private terraces. The studios are spacious and tidy, each with air-con and kitchenettes. They open onto a leafy courtyard with a nice pool—a welcome feature on a hot day. Bikes and beach gear can be rented or borrowed; look for deep discounts in the off-season, too.
US$100–150
A perfect place if you’re traveling with kids or planning a longer stay, 
Abbey del Sol 2 (Av. Niños Héroes s/n, tel. 998/871-0127, www.abbeydelsol.com, US$60 s/d with a/c, US$105–110 condo with a/c) is one property in a collection of a few around town that offer modern, clean, and comfortable accommodations. Here, nicely appointed units have kingsize beds, balconies or private courtyards, and fully equipped kitchens (all excepting one). There is a well-tended pool in the leafy garden and a rooftop patio with palapa-shaded hammocks. Complimentary use of bicycles also is included. If it’s booked, check the website for equally comfortable options.
Villas Clarita (Av. Niños Héroes near Calle Benito Juárez, tel. 998/871-0042, U.S. tel. 970/225-0907, www.villasclaritamexico.com, US$120–150 per night, US$600–1,200 per week) has a handful of comfortable condos that open onto two courtyards: One has a large pool with lots of lounge chairs and tables, while the other is a leafy, almost wild, garden. Most of the apartments have a hacienda-like feel, with arches, wrought-iron detailing, and muted colors, and are decorated with heavy wood Mexican furnishings. (The better ones open onto the garden courtyard, though families may like having an apartment right next to the pool.) All have full kitchen, air-con, cable TV, Wi-Fi, purified water, and even daily maid service. Breakfast is included from November to May; other discounts available online.
On the main beach, Carmen Hacienda (Av. Rafaél Melgar 5, tel. 998/871-0448, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/227-6366, www.carmeninn.com, US$90–130 s/d with a/c) has rooms that fall into two categories: renovated and not renovated at all. The prior are bright and spacious with ocean views, good beds, tile floors, and quiet air-con. There’s not much decor, but the view makes up for it. The other rooms, though oceanfront, are dismal for the price—missing toilet seats, old furnishings, and window unit air-con (aka the loud ones). Though the price is lower for these rooms, if you can’t swing the renovated rooms, you’re better off elsewhere. There also is a small pool on-site, as well as a decent restaurant.
Over US$150
Ceiba del Mar (1.5 kilometers/0.9 mile north of town, tel. 998/872-8063, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/426-9772, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/545-6221, www.ceibadelmar.com, US$210–460 s/d, US$420–930 s/d all-inclusive) offers a high-end resort experience with a laid-back vibe. Located in eight three-story stucco buildings, the units are elegantly appointed and have the modern amenities you’d expect, like pillow menus, fine linens, flat-screen TVs, and Wi-Fi. Continental breakfast is included and is served in-room through a butler box—you won’t even have to throw on your robe to open the door. The resort also boasts two glorious pools, a full-service spa and gym, two restaurants, a dive shop, and tennis courts with lights. The resort offers complimentary use of snorkel gear, kayaks, and bikes, too.
Hotel Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort (Blvd. El Cid Unidad 15, tel. 998/872-8999, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/733-7308, www.elcid.com, US$296 s/d with a/c, US$341–378 suite with a/c, US$391–438 one-bdrm apt with a/c) is Puerto Morelos’s first all-inclusive resort—a milestone that didn’t please everyone in this tightly knit town. It’s fairly small by Riviera Maya standards but far larger than anything else in Puerto Morelos. The resort gets high marks from families, with a kids club, waterslide, and manageable size, though the beach is smallish and sometimes littered with coral fragments. There is a full-service spa on-site—including beachfront massage tables—as well as a great little gym with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the Caribbean. Rooms have modern tasteful decor and lots of natural light; larger units have two full bathrooms, kitchen, and en suite hot tubs. The hotel is located well south of town, though complimentary bicycles are available.
FOOD
Who knows how it happened, but unassuming Puerto Morelos has an amazingly rich collection of restaurants and eateries, from cheerful holes-in-the-wall to international cuisine rivaling anything in Cancún or Playa del Carmen.
Mexican and Seafood
Located on the central plaza, El Pirata (tel. 998/871-0489, 8 A.M.–9 P.M. daily, US$8–15) offers a large selection of hamburgers, fish burgers, tortas, tacos, and entrées such as roast chicken or grilled beef, all served in a simple open-air dining area just off the street. Like many businesses here, El Pirata cuts back its hours in the low season, closing Monday and the entire month of May.
Doña Triny’s (central plaza, no phone, 8 A.M.–11 P.M. daily, US$4–9) started out as a tiny shack at the entrance of town and now occupies prime property on the main plaza, rubbing elbows with the likes of Hola Asia and the Alma Libre bookstore. Neither the low-key ambience nor the familiar menu have changed much; look for Mexican and Yucatecan standards like enchiladas, huaraches, and chiles rellenos, plus some adopted dishes like stuffed portobello mushrooms; most dishes can be adjusted for vegetarians on request, too.
Los Pelícanos (central plaza, tel. 998/871-0014, 8 A.M.–11 P.M. daily, US$7–20) has a wraparound patio overlooking the plaza and the ocean—perfect for an afternoon beer or margarita. Food here can be a bit uneven, but with so many anglers in town, it’s hard to go wrong with shrimp, octopus, or fish, all served fresh in a half dozen different ways.
Asian
Hola Asia (central plaza, tel. 998/871-0679, 3–10 P.M. Wed.–Mon., 1–10 P.M. Sun., closed Sept., US$8–15) is a small, popular restaurant serving a terrific pan-Asian menu of mostly Thai and Chinese inspiration. Diners come from Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and beyond to eat here, and the restaurant has added a rooftop patio to accommodate the crowds. For sweet and sour, try General Tso’s Chicken; for spicy, go with Indian Yellow Curry.
David Lau’s Place (central plaza, tel. 998/251-2531, www.davidlaus.com, 3–10:30 P.M. Tues.–Sat., 1–9:30 P.M. Sun., US$8–15) was opened by the former chef at Hola Asia and also serves terrific Asian-inspired dishes, plus a handful of select Italian dishes. Meals are made to order and are served in a colorful dining room; portions tend toward enormous.
Other Specialties
John Gray’s Kitchen (Av. Niños Héroes s/n, tel. 998/871-0665, www.johngrayrestaurantgroup.com, 6–10 P.M. Mon.–Sat., US$15–30) is the mother restaurant of John Gray’s Place in Playa del Carmen, and without question it is the finest restaurant in Puerto Morelos. The menu changes every day, though a few perennial favorites are almost always available, like mac n’ cheese with jumbo shrimp and white truffle oil, soy-marinated tuna with Asian coleslaw, and pan roasted duck breast with chipotle, honey, and tequila. Fine cuts of meat, inventive sauces, and fresh pastas and vegetables are a given. Occupying a boxy building two blocks from the plaza, the dining room is elegant and understated.
There’s great homemade pizza and pasta at Los Gauchos (Calle Tulum, cell. tel. 998/166-5879, 8 A.M.–11 P.M. Wed.–Sun., US$5–8), but don’t leave without trying the empanadas: a classic Argentinean snack made of puffy, crispy fried dough filled with cheese or other goodies. At just US$1.50 apiece, a plate of five or six and a couple of sodas makes a great cheap meal for two. Take them to go or eat in the colorful dining room.
The Quebecois owners of L’Oazis (central plaza, Av. Tulum near Av. Javier Rojo Gómez, 5–10 P.M. Tues.–Sun., US$7–15) serve mostly grilled dishes in their small, cheerful eatery. The menu includes tacos, burgers, and New York steak, plus specialties like zucchini and eggplant with tzatziki sauce.
Cafés
Right on the central plaza, 
Le Café D’Amancía (Calle Tulum at Av. Javier Rojo Gómez s/n, cell. tel. 998/137-0757, 7 A.M.–2 P.M. and 5–10 P.M. Wed.–Mon., US$2–6) is a tiny bohemian café serving up homemade baked goods, bagel and croissant sandwiches, freshly squeezed juices, and strong caffeine drinks. With mellow tunes, outdoor tables, and early—plus late—hours, it makes a great place for a light breakfast, after-dinner dessert, and people watching.
A Puerto Morelos institution, Mama’s Bakery (Av. Javier Rojo Gómez, cell. tel. 998/845-6810, 7:30 A.M.–1 P.M. Tues.–Sat., sometimes Sun., US$4–7) is run by a friendly expat and baker extraordinaire. The sticky buns and carrot cake are irresistible, and there’s a waiting list for fresh loaves of bread—order at least a day in advance. Mama’s also serves fresh tasty meals, like pancakes or breakfast burritos in the morning and smoothies and sandwiches for lunch. The restaurant is typically closed on weekends after Labor Day until November 1.
Groceries
Casa Martín (central plaza, 6:30 A.M.–10 P.M. daily) has a fairly large selection of canned foods, pastas, snacks, and drinks; there’s also a small produce section near the back.
Every Wednesday, fruit, vegetable, and meat stands (Calle Tulum near Av. Javier Rojo Gómez, 7 A.M.–2 P.M.) set up a half block from the central plaza. Prices are by the kilo, and products are fresh.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Although this town sees a good number of tourists, the services remain somewhat sparse.
Emergency Services
The modest Centro de Salud (no phone, 8 A.M.–2 P.M. and 4–6 P.M. daily) is south of the plaza, on an unmarked connector street between Avenidas Javier Rojo Gómez and Rafaél Melgar. While fine for minor issues, any serious medical issues should be attended to in Cancún or Playa del Carmen.
Farmacia San José Obrero (central plaza, tel. 998/871-0053, Av. Javier Rojo Gómez, 8 A.M.–2 P.M. and 4–10 P.M. daily) is a mom-and-pop pharmacy selling basic meds and toiletries.
Money
There is no bank in Puerto Morelos, but there’s an HSBC ATM just outside the supermarket on the plaza’s north side.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Puerto Morelos is 36 kilometers (22 miles) south of Cancún and even closer to the airport, just 18 kilometers (11 miles). The town itself is compact enough that you can manage without a car (unless you’re staying at Ceiba del Mar or possibly Rancho Sak Ol). That said, having a vehicle makes exploring the Riviera Maya beyond Puerto Morelos significantly easier.
Europcar (Calle Tulum near Av. Javier Rojo Gómez, tel. 998/206-9372, www.europcar.com.mx, 8:30 A.M.–5:30 P.M. daily) has a small office just off the main plaza, making it the most convenient option for renting a car. Otherwise, Cancún airport has a large number of agencies, and you can often find excellent deals online.
Bus
ADO buses pass the Puerto Morelos turnoff on Highway 307 but do not enter town. The northbound stop is right at the turnoff, while the southbound bus stop is across the highway and a block south. For Cancún (US$1.75, 45 minutes) and Playa del Carmen (US$1.75, 35 minutes), second-class buses and combis (shared vans) pass every 10–15 minutes 5:30 A.M.–10 P.M. daily, though less frequently at night. Some go as far as Tulum (US$5–7, 1.5 hours), but you should double-check before getting on. Buses to the Cancún airport (US$5, 25 minutes) pass roughly every 30–60 minutes from 7:55 A.M. to 8:10 P.M. daily. Buy your ticket a day in advance, as buses often fill in Playa del Carmen.
PUNTA BETE AND PLAYA XCALACOCO
It used to be that the only way to find Punta Bete and its main beach, Playa Xcalacoco, was to look for the big Cristal water plant. That’s still the best landmark, but a flurry of new construction, and renovation of existing locations, has prompted hoteliers to finally add signs along the highway as well. The beach here is decent—the sand is clean but coarse, and the shoreline rocky in places—but the snorkeling is good, and the isolation has always been a big plus. It’s still a quiet place, but all the new development—including a huge condo complex—may mark a new chapter for this long-overlooked stretch of beach.
Accommodations
Hotel Petit Lafitte (Hwy. 307 Km. 296, tel. 984/877-4000, www.petitlafitte.com, US$225–375 s/d with a/c) offers the comfort of a full-scale hotel on this isolated stretch of beach, including a large pool, plenty of poolside lounge space, and a well-maintained beach area with palapas and hammocks. Accommodations are either in the main building, where all the rooms have at least partial ocean views, or in spacious beachfront bungalows with lofts. All accommodations have one or two beds, cable TV, air-conditioning, minibar, and Wi-Fi. Rates include a full breakfast and dinner for two.
Owned by a Mexican-Swiss couple, Coco’s Cabañas (Hwy. 307 Km. 296, tel. 998/874-7056, www.cocoscabanas.com, US$75 s/d, US$85–95 s/d with a/c) has a handful of charming palapa-roof bungalows on a small garden plot. The cabañas are comfortable and clean, with palapa roofs, private bathrooms, and patios with hammocks. There’s a heart-shaped pool next to the open-air restaurant and bar, and the beach is just 30 meters (100 feet) away. Breakfast is included in the rate.
Food
Coco’s Cabañas (Hwy. 307 Km. 296, tel. 998/874-7056, www.cocoscabanas.com, 8 A.M.–8 P.M. daily, US$5–18) has a small outdoor bar and restaurant that specializes in wood-oven pizzas, though there are lots of seafood dishes as well. It’s a bit pricey for the location, but then again you don’t often see prosciutto, arugula, and Brie pizza in these parts.
Getting There and Around
From the highway, follow the access road two kilometers (1.2 miles) until it forks at the Tides Riviera Maya resort. Bear left to reach the listed hotels and beach.
There is no taxi stand in this tiny community; when guests need one, hotels call cabs from Playa del Carmen or Puerto Morelos. A ride to the airport costs around US$40, to Playa del Carmen US$10.
Playa del Carmen
Playa del Carmen (or Playa for short) has long been a favorite among travelers looking for an alternative to Cancún, a place where boutique hotels and lounge bars outnumber glitzy high-rises and all-night clubs. Playa’s tourist and residential areas are more intertwined than Cancún’s, and it’s easier to find “authentic” Mexican outlets, especially compared to the Cancún Zona Hotelera. And while Cancún is an American playground, Playa attracts mostly Europeans, especially Italians.
But Playa is no longer the quaint seaside village many remember. Its population has exploded in recent years (as much as 20 percent per year), making it one of the fastest-growing cities in the country. It wasn’t too long ago that Playa’s main tourist strip—Quinta Avenida, or 5th Avenue—was just a half dozen blocks long; now it stretches more than 20 blocks and grows longer every year. Condos are popping up seemingly everywhere, and the southern end of Playa (the part nearest the bus terminal and ferry terminal) has been almost completely overtaken by kitschy stores and chain restaurants—and in that way is little different than the overcommercialized parts of Cancún.
Fortunately, Playa still has plenty of small hotels, funky charm, and offbeat shops, especially in the middle and northern sections of Quinta Avenida, to help it remain a true alternative to Cancún. It’s got some great beaches, and the atmosphere remains decidedly mellow, even with all the changes. Playa’s central location also makes it a convenient base from which to explore the rest of the Riviera Maya and Yucatán Peninsula, whether snorkeling in cenotes, diving on Isla Cozumel, or visiting inland Maya ruins.
SIGHTS
Quinta Avenida
Playa’s main pedestrian and commercial drag is Quinta Avenida, or 5th Avenue, which stretches more than 20 blocks from the ferry dock northward. Pronounced KEEN-ta av-en-EE-da, you may see it written as 5 Avenida or 5a Avenida—5a is akin to 5th in English. The first several blocks, especially around the ferry dock, are typical tourist traps, with souvenir shops and chain restaurants. Around Calle 10 or Calle 12, the atmosphere turns mellower, with bistros, jazz bars, and high-end boutiques. The section north of Avenida Constituyentes is cool and youthful, and has a number of Italian restaurants and Italian-owned shops there. You’ll probably walk the length of Quinta Avenida once or twice—the best beaches are in the northern part, the bus terminal and ferry dock in the southern—and everyone seems to find his or her favorite part.
PLAYA DEL CARMEN
Playa del Carmen’s pedestrian-only Quinta Avenida has it all, from fine dining and funky shops to open-air bars and tourist traps.
Beaches and Beach Clubs
With thick white sand and mild surf, Playa Tukán (entrance at 1 Av. Norte at Calle 26) has long been the best beach in town. There used to be a long stretch of “unclaimed” beach where anyone could stake out a patch of sand and sun for the day. Today, condo developments have gobbled up large sections of shore, and two beach clubs cover much of the rest. The latter are open to the public, so there’s no question of being able to relax and enjoy the beach; it’s just that you’ll probably end up renting lounge chairs and an umbrella rather than laying out your towel somewhere. On the bright side, beach clubs have bar and restaurant service, showers, lockers, and in some cases, small swimming pools. There are also small tour operators on Playa Tukán that offer snorkeling tours, Hobie Cat trips, kayaks, and more.
Playa Tukán’s beach clubs are each a little different, appealing more or less to different types of beachgoers. Generally speaking, Kool (at Calle 26, tel. 984/803-1961, www.koolbeachclub.com.mx, 8 A.M.–6 P.M. daily) is laid-back though classy, good for a slightly older crowd and families with young children, while Mamita’s Beach Club (at Calle 28, tel. 984/803-2867, www.mamitasbeachclub.com, 8 A.M.–5:30 P.M. daily) draws a younger, hipper set that’s into techno. Prices are fairly uniform: around US$2.50 a day apiece for chairs and umbrellas, US$15–25 for beach beds and large palapas; snacks and drinks range US$5–15.
Beach clubs are a pleasant and convenient way to enjoy Playa’s sun and sand.
Playa El Faro (btwn Calles 8 and 16) is an excellent beach just steps from the action on Quinta Avenida. Named for the large lighthouse ( faro) at one end, it is the widest beach in Playa, with plenty of room to lay out a towel, unlike other stretches that have been snatched by encroaching hotels. It also is home to the well-recommended water-sports operator Jaime’s Marina (Playa El Faro, end of Calle 10, cell. tel. 984/130-2034, www.jaimesmarina.bravehost.com, 10 A.M.–5 P.M. daily).
The most popular beach club on Playa Faro is Wicky’s Beach Club (at Calle 10, tel. 984/873-3541, www.wickysplayadelcarmen.com, 7 A.M.–11 P.M. daily). An upscale, welcoming spot with a great restaurant, it offers free beach chairs and umbrellas as long as you buy something to eat or drink. Complimentary fruit and cool facial cloths throughout the day also are a hit. Another option is Coco Maya Beach Club (end of Calle 12, 8 A.M.–7 P.M. daily), a low-key place with lounge chairs (US$5) and beach beds (US$20) for rent. At 9:30 P.M., the beach club reopens (and transforms) into a nightclub, with guest DJs or live bands pumping music until the wee hours of the morning. For water sports, Coco Beach (between Calles 38 and 46), Playa’s northernmost beach, also is its quietest. This is the place to come if you just want to lay out on your towel, listen to the waves, and chill out. Consider bringing snorkel gear, though—Chunzubul Reef, just north of Coco Beach, is considered the best place to go snorkeling in Playa.
Xcaret
Just five kilometers (three miles) south of Playa, Xcaret (Hwy. 307 Km. 282, tel. 998/883-0470, www.xcaret.com.mx, 8:30 A.M.–9:30 P.M. daily, US$69/34.50 adult/child, US$99/49.50 adult/child including snorkeling equipment, buffet, and snack) is a mega-ecopark offering water activities like snorkeling in underground rivers and swimming with dolphins and sharks; up-close animal viewing areas including jaguar and puma islands, a butterfly pavilion, and an aquarium; a phenomenal folk art museum that’s brimming with artesanía from around Mexico; and spectacular shows, like a Maya ball game, regional dances, and music performances. Beyond this, the park also is dedicated to protecting the region’s flora and fauna; there are breeding areas for scarlet macaws and turtles, a section dedicated to the endemic stingerless bee, and an orchid greenhouse—all with educational exhibits for visitors. If you’re into organized activities or are traveling with kids, this is definitely a worthwhile stop. Online discounts often are available.
Aviario Xaman-Ha
A short distance inside the Playacar entrance off 10 Avenida, this small bird sanctuary (Paseo Xaman Ha s/n, tel. 984/873-0330, www.aviarioxamanha.com, 9 A.M.–5 P.M. daily, US$25 adult, children under 12 free) is home, or a stopover, for more than 60 species of tropical birds, including toucans, flamingos, cormorants, and parrots. Some birds are in enclosures, but many are not, and a stone path meanders through the leafy grounds. Unfortunately, the admission price is ridiculously inflated and keeps getting higher. If you do go, be sure to bring bug repellent.
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
Playa del Carmen doesn’t have nearly the number of nightclubs that Cancún does, nor would many of the people who visit regularly want it to. But Playa does boast a great bar and lounge scene, and you’ll find plenty of lively spots along Quinta Avenida just about any night of the week. A hot spot is at and around the corner of 1 Avenida and Calle 12, where the Blue Parrot, an oldie but goody, has been joined by a handful of newer bars, and you can bounce from one to the next well into the wee hours.
A day at Xcaret ends with an extravagant performance in the park’s huge stadium, ranging from folkloric dancing to a Maya ball game.
Lounges and Bars
With retro tables and armchairs, low beats and even lower lights, Diablito Cha Cha Cha (1 Av. at Calle 12, tel. 984/803-4506, www.diablitochachacha.com, 1 P.M.–3 A.M. daily) is certainly one of the most stylish of the bars in this up-and-coming area. Order anything under the sun from the bar, and munch on unlikely Mexican-Japanese fusion snacks and meals.
DJs spin urban beats at Deseo (5 Av. at Calle 12, tel. 984/879-3620, www.hoteldeseo.com, 5 P.M.–12:30 A.M. daily), a sleek minimalist lounge bar that attracts local and foreign hipsters most nights of the week. Part of a like-named hotel, the rooftop lounge is the centerpiece of the place; a candlelit stone stairway leads to a pool surrounded by queen-size cushions and billowing curtains.
One of Playa’s only gay bars, Playa 69 (off 5 Av. between Calles 4 and 6, tel. 984/876-9466, 9 P.M.–4 A.M. daily) is hopping on weekends, when tequila shots are almost mandatory. Popular with locals (and twenty- and thirty-somethings), the entrance is kind of hard to spot—look for the 7-Eleven minimart on the west side of Quinta Avenida, then follow the rainbow sign down an alley. Get there around 1 A.M. for the best crowd.
And of course you can always find a party at Señor Frog’s (ferry pier, tel. 984/803-3498, 9 A.M.–3 A.M. daily) and Carlos n’ Charlie’s (Paseo del Carmen, southern end of 5 Av., tel. 984/803-3498, 10 A.M.–1 A.M. daily), both near the Cozumel ferry pier. These bars are a fixture in Mexican beach towns and are famous for their yard-long drinks, dancing on the tables, and nonstop parties.
Nightclubs
One of Playa’s classic hot spots, the Blue Parrot (Calle 12 at the beach, tel. 984/206-3350, www.blueparrot.com, 7:30 A.M.–4 A.M. daily, US$8.50 after 10 P.M., free before 10 P.M.) has sand floors, swing bar seats, a candlelit palapa lounge, and a small dance floor that have kept customers streaming in for years—since 1984, to be exact. DJs play everything from old-school rock and roll to techno; be sure to check out the fire dancers nightly at 11 P.M. Ladies drink for free on Monday and Thursday.
Coco Bongo Playa (Av. 10 at Calle 12, tel. 984/803-5939, www.cocobongo.com. mx, 10 P.M.–3:30 A.M. daily, US$50–60) is a satellite of the famous nightclub in Cancún. Like the original, Coco Bongo Playa features a slew of celebrity impersonations, from Kiss to Beyoncé, plus acrobats, light shows, and multiple DJs to keep everyone dancing. The space here is fairly small, but the crowds can be huge and boisterous—tons of fun, assuming you’re not claustrophobic. Ask at your hotel or resort about VIP tickets and party-hopper tours; shows begin at 11 P.M.
SHOPPING
Playa del Carmen offers some of the best shopping on the Riviera Maya, and Quinta Avenida is where it’s at.
Artesanía
La Sirena (5 Av. at Calle 26, tel. 984/803-3422, lasirenaplayadelcarmen@hotmail.com, 9 A.M.–10 P.M. daily) is a boutique specializing in Mexican folk art. Italian shop owner Patrizia personally selects the exceptional pieces—whimsical skeleton art, colonial statuettes of La Virgen de Guadalupe, tin-framed mirrors, bright shawls—and you’re sure to find something you can’t resist.
Caracol (5 Av. btwn Calles 6 and 8, tel. 984/803-1959, 9:30 A.M.–10:30 P.M. daily) is a pricey boutique selling unique Mexican textiles. It makes a great stop, even if just to admire the spectacular fabrics—clothing, tablecloths, bedding, and decorative art—that the owner handpicks herself on buying trips throughout southern Mexico.
Jam-packed with high-end Mexican folk art, Pachamama (Calle Corazón near 5 Av., tel. 984/803-3355, 9 A.M.–11 P.M. daily) is a sure thing if you’re willing to drop a load of pesos. Skeleton art and hipster clothes from the D.F. figure prominently.
Bookstores
The best bookshop in the region is in nearby Puerto Morelos, and a stop there can be part of a nice day trip from Playa. In town, Mundo (Calle 1 Sur btwn 20 and 25 Av., tel. 984/879-3004, www.pequemundo.com.mx, 10 A.M.–7 P.M. Mon.–Fri., 10 A.M.–6 P.M. Sat.) has several English-language titles, new and used. Mysteries, romances, and other beach reads abound, but a close look turns up some good novels and nonfiction books. The shop buys back its own books for 50 percent, credit or trade toward a used book—a great deal if you’re tearing through books. There’s also a small selection of regional maps.
Specialty Items
Opening onto a leafy courtyard, Galería de Arte (5 Av. near Calle 6, no phone, 10 A.M.–10 P.M. daily) is a collection of about a dozen galleries featuring modern art paintings, sculptures, and wood carvings. Items are by no means cheap, but if you’re in the market for something special, you may find what you’re looking for here. If it’s too pricey, stop in just to enjoy the art.
For a decent selection of specialty tequilas, check out Casa Tequila (5 Av. near Calle 14 Bis, 9 A.M.–midnight daily), where in addition to fine tequila you’ll find a nice variety of silver jewelry. A small sister store is also at Quinta Avenida at Calle 16.
For cigars, stop by Havana Cigar Co. (5 Av. btwn Calles 10 and 12, tel. 984/803-1047, 9 A.M.–11:30 P.M. daily). Cuban and Mexican puros are sold individually (US$5–15) or by the box (US$55–450).
Shopping Centers
At the southern end of Quinta Avenida, Paseo del Carmen (10 A.M.–10 P.M. daily) is a shady outdoor shopping center with high-end clothing boutiques, jewelry stores, art galleries, and restaurants. Its series of modern fountains make it an especially pleasant place to window-shop or enjoy a nice lunch after a morning at the beach.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Scuba Diving
Playa del Carmen has decent offshore diving—virtually all drift dives, thanks to prevailing currents—and relatively easy access to Cozumel and inland cenotes. It’s a logical base if you want a taste of all three, plus the convenience of being in a major town. However, if diving is the main reason you came, consider basing yourself on Cozumel itself, or closer to the cenotes, such as at Akumal or Tulum. This will save you the time, money, and effort of going back and forth.
Diving prices in Playa del Carmen are reasonable, and fairly uniform from shop to shop. Two-tank reef dives cost US$55–80, Cozumel trips run US$75–100, cenote trips are around US$95–120, and open-water certification courses run US$350–410. Gear is included in the courses but is often charged separately for fun dives (US$15–20 per day). Most shops do not include the price of taking the ferry to Cozumel (US$24 round-trip), and additional fees, like marine park and cenote admissions, may also apply.
Tank-Ha Dive Center (Calle 10 btwn 5 and 10 Avs., tel. 984/873-0302, www.tankha.com, 8 A.M.–10 P.M. daily) is one of the longest-operating shops in Playa and a PADI Gold Palm resort and instructor training facility.
Dive Mike (Calle 8 btwn 5 Av. and the beach, tel. 984/803-1228, www.divemike.com, 7 A.M.–9 P.M. daily) is a very friendly, professional, and reasonably priced shop. Check out its excellent website for additional info and pictures.
Phantom Divers (1 Av. Norte at Calle 14, tel. 984/879-3988, www.phantomdivers.com, 8 A.M.–8 P.M. Mon.–Sat., 8 A.M.–7 P.M. Sun.) is one of a handful of locally owned dive shops offering lower-than-average prices. Cash only.
Yucatek Divers (15 Av. btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 984/803-1363, www.yucatek-divers.com, 7:30 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) uses a neighboring hotel’s pool for beginner certification training. Notably, all fun dives are led by instructors.
Scuba Playa (Calle 10 btwn 1 and 5 Avs., tel. 984/803-3123, www.scubaplaya.com, 8 A.M.–8 P.M. daily) specializes in small groups and offers a six-dive package that includes two tanks apiece in Cozumel, the cenotes, and the reef.
Snorkeling
In Playa itself it’s best to go snorkeling with a tour, since the snorkeling off the beach isn’t too rewarding. There are also numerous cenotes near Playa that make for unique snorkeling, including several you can visit on your own.
Most of Playa’s dive shops offer guided snorkeling tours to excellent sites. Ocean trips cost US$30–40, while cenote trips are US$50–75, all gear included. Be sure to ask how many people will be on the trip, how long the trip will last, and how many reefs you’ll be visiting (for ocean trips). For cenote trips, we strongly recommend a wetsuit, even if it means renting one for a few extra bucks. The water is quite chilly, there’s no sun, and you’ll be better protected against cuts and scrapes.
Jaime’s Marina (Playa El Faro, end of Calle 10, cell. tel. 984/130-2034, www.jaimesmarina.bravehost.com, 10 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) is a kiosk on the beach offering friendly service and a variety of tours and rentals. Snorkel trips (US$35, 2 hours) include an hour of snorkeling and sailing in a Hobie Cat. Parasailing (US$65 per 15 minutes) and banana boat rides (US$20 per 20 minutes) are available, too. For do-it-yourself fun, kayaks (US$12 per hour) and Jet Ski (US$65 per 30 minutes) rentals are offered. Whatever you decide, be sure to ask about lockers and dry bags for your stuff. Cash only.
Wind Sports
Kiteboarding, sailboarding, and sailing have grown in popularity along the Caribbean, a trickle-down effect from the world-famous wind belt on the Gulf coast northwest of here. You can catch at least some breeze almost any time of the year, but the strongest, most consistent winds blow November–March.
Ikarus (5 Av. and Calle 20, tel. 984/ 803-3490, www.kiteboardmexico.com, 9 A.M.–10 P.M. daily) is a full-service kiteboarding retail shop and school. Classes are typically conducted at Isla Blanca, in the massive flat-water Chacmochuch Lagoon north of Cancún, which is ideal for kiting but nearly two hours by car or bus from Playa del Carmen. The shop doesn’t include or arrange transport, but simple lodging is offered at Isla Blanca (US$5 pp tent, US$50 s/d). Private classes are US$95 an hour or US$450 for six hours, while groups are US$70 an hour per person (maximum three to a group) or US$350 for six hours. Equipment is included for students or can be rented separately (US$60 half day, US$95 full day). Classes are regularly scheduled from November to May; otherwise it’s by appointment only.
Jaime’s Marina (Playa El Faro, end of Calle 10, cell. tel. 984/130-2034, www.jaimesmarina.bravehost.com, 10 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) offers sailing classes and rentals from its kiosk on Playa El Faro. A four-hour beginner’s class is US$130 for up to four people. Rent a three-person Hobie Cat for US$35–45 an hour (depending on how long you stay out) or a five-seater for US$45–75 an hour, with or without a guide.
Swimming with Dolphins
With swimming pens set up in the ocean, Delphinus Riviera Maya (Hwy. 307 Km. 282, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/335-3461, toll-free U.S./Canada tel. 888/526-2230, www.delphinus.com.mx, US$159–499) is about as good as it gets for performing dolphins. For visitors, it’s one of the most rewarding dolphin interaction programs in the region. For US$159, participants are permitted to interact with a dolphin pod for 50 minutes; standard tricks are performed while visitors are in the water—a series of jumps, a foot push, and a dolphin kiss—along with extras like just plain swimming with the pod. For US$499, a similar program is offered one-on-one with a dolphin. Ticket prices include a locker, towel, goggles, and round-trip transportation from many of the hotels on the Riviera Maya. There often are discounts for booking online.
Sportfishing
Playa de Carmen has excellent sportfishing and bottom fishing, with plentiful wahoo, dorado, mackerel, snapper, barracuda, and—especially April–June—sailfish and marlin. On average, trips for 1–5 people last 4–5 hours and cost US$200, including tackle and drinks. Most dive shops offer tours, as does Jaime’s Marina (Playa El Faro, end of Calle 10, cell. tel. 984/130-2034, www.jaimesmarina.bravehost.com, 10 A.M.–5 P.M. daily).
Golf
The Golf Club at Playacar (Paseo Xaman-Há opposite Hotel Viva Azteca, tel. 998/193-2010, ext. 8670, www.palaceresorts.com, 6 A.M.–sundown daily) is a challenging 7,144-yard championship course designed by Robert Van Hagge and located in Playacar, the upscale hotel and residential development south of Playa del Carmen proper. Greens fees are US$200 per adult, US$120 after 1 P.M., and US$40 for children under age 17 (accompanied by adult), including cart, snacks, and drinks; free hotel pickup is included for full-price rounds. Reserve at least a day in advance November–January.
Skydiving
Gleaming white beaches and brilliant turquoise seas make the Riviera Maya a spectacular place for skydiving. If you’re up for it, Sky Dive Playa (Plaza Marina, just south of the ferry dock, tel. 984/873-0192, www.skydive.com.mx, 9 A.M.–sunset daily) has been throwing travelers out of planes at 10,000 feet since 1996. You freefall for 4,500 feet—about 45 seconds—then the ’chute opens for a 7-to-8-minute ride down to a soft landing on the beach. Tandem dives (you and an instructor, US$229) are offered every day—reserve 1–2 days in advance in summer and high season. Photos or a video of your jump are available for an additional US$130.
Tours
On the highway in front of the main Playacar entrance, Alltournative (Hwy. 307 Km 287, tel. 984/803-9999, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/466-2848, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/437-4990, www.alltournative.com, 9 A.M.–7 P.M. daily, US$99–119 adult, US$79 child under 12) offers fun daily tours that include activities such as kayaking, zip lines, off-road bicycling, caving, and snorkeling, plus (depending on the tour you choose) visits to a small Maya village and Cobá archaeological zone. There typically are guides who speak English, Italian, French, German, Dutch, and Spanish.
Aerosaab (20 Av. Sur near Calle 1, tel. 984/865-0804, www.aerosaab.com, 7 A.M.–7:30 P.M. daily) offers scenic full-day tours throughout the region—Chichén Itzá, Isla Holbox, Mérida, Uxmal—and as far as Palenque. Trips are in 4- or 5-seat Cessna airplanes and run US$150–508 per person, plus airport fees. Most trips require a minimum of two people.
Spas and Gyms
El Jardín de Shangri La (Calle 38 at Calle Flamingo, tel. 984/801-1295, 7 A.M.–9 P.M. Mon.–Sat., noon–5 P.M. Sun., US$10 per class) is an undeveloped jungle plot reserved for, among others things, yoga and meditation classes. Instruction is mostly held in a huge palapa, but anyone is free to wander (and practice) on the lush property.
The Gym (Av. 1 near Calle 16 Bis, tel. 984/873-2098, www.thegymplaya.com, 6 A.M.–10 P.M. Mon.–Fri., 7 A.M.–7 P.M. Sat., 8 A.M.–5 P.M. Sun.) is a modern facility offering state-of-the-art equipment and a host of classes, including yoga, Pilates, spinning, and even pole dancing. There are personal trainers on-site, too. Day passes cost US$15, five-day passes US$60, and monthly passes US$75.
The well-tended Unidad Deportiva Villanueva Madrid (10 Av. near Calle 30, 6 A.M.–10:30 P.M. daily) is Playa del Carmen’s public sporting facility, with a gym, tennis and basketball courts, track, and soccer field. All have night lighting and are open to the public at no charge; BYO equipment.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Playa del Carmen has a huge selection and variety of accommodations, from youth hostels to swanky resorts to condos and long-term rentals. Most all-inclusives are located in Playacar, just south of town.
Under US$50
Youth Hostel Playa (Calle 8 near 25 Av., tel. 984/803-3277, www.hostelplaya.com, US$13.50 dorm, US$34 s/d with shared bath) is Playa del Carmen’s best hostel, despite being somewhat removed from downtown and the beach. The dorm rooms are narrow but clean and have thick, comfortable mattresses, individual fans, mosquito nets, and free lockers. The private rooms are kept spotless, although light sleepers may be bothered by street noise. A well-equipped—and amazingly well-kept—kitchen has plenty of space to work your culinary magic, as well as a good cubby system to prevent groceries from disappearing. Best of all is the hostel’s enormous common area, which is perfect for eating, playing cards, reading, watching TV, or just kicking back.
Happy Gecko Hotel and Backpackers Hostel (10 Av. near Calle 6, cell. tel. 984/147-0692, happygeckohotel@gmail.com, US$13–15 dorm with a/c, US$18–50 pp private room with a/c and bathroom) is a combo of dorm and private rooms set up in two sections: new and old. (Needless to say, the “new” section is markedly better). Dorms are single-sex and mixed, and all have air-con, lockers, sheets, and towels. Bathrooms are a bit sketchy—mostly because there aren’t really enough to go around—and complaints of a lack of hot water are frequent. The private rooms are nicer, spacious, and stark; many also have kitchenette. A rooftop lounge, reminiscent of a frat house with its old couches and beer-bottle pyramids, is a popular place for guests to party until late.
Cabañas Popol-Vuh (Calle 2 near 5 Av., tel. 984/803-2149, www.popolvuhplaya.com, US$30–38 s/d with shared bath, US$40–47 s/d, US$52 s/d with a/c) has nine cozy cabañas and three hotel rooms facing a small sand lot with hammocks—direct access to the beach is via a short sand alley. The cabañas are simple wood-paneled structures, some with palapa roofs. They’re all comfortable enough, with good screens and strong fans, although the ones with en suite bathrooms are better maintained. (For those using the shared bathrooms—wear your flip-flops!—they need a serious scrub down.) The hotel rooms, though lacking the Robison Crusoe feel of the others, are a step up: cable TV, quiet air-con, and private bathrooms. In this town, these units are a steal—reserve early. Wi-Fi and a full breakfast are included, too.
US$50–100
Tucked into a quiet leafy courtyard, Club Yebo (Av. 1 at Calle 14, tel. 984/803-3966, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-9510, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 888/676-4431, www.clubyebo.com, US$45 s/d bungalow, US$69 studio with a/c, US$95 one-bdrm apt. with a/c, US$115 two-bdrm apt. with a/c) is a small hotel offering tasteful studios and apartments with modern furnishings and fully equipped kitchens. All have quiet air-con, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and daily maid service—perfect for longer stays or if traveling with kids. There also are two comfortable thatch-roofed units (fan only), which do not have cooking facilities but are cheaper. Common areas include a small pool and two palapa lounges with hammocks. The only downside is if you need front desk assistance after hours, you must go down the street to its sister establishment, Playa Palms Hotel.
Hotel Casa de las Flores (20 Av. btwn Calles 4 and 6, tel. 984/873-2898, www.hotelcasadelasflores.com, US$80–90 s/d with a/c) offers a cheerful hacienda-esque exterior that gives way to a leafy courtyard and garden, with a small stone-paved pool and rooms arranged on two levels in back. Americans will appreciate the air-conditioning, Europeans the bidet, and no one can complain about the simple but classy decor. Higher-priced rooms are bigger and have better light or small terraces, plus a minifridge.
Aqualuna Hotel (Av. 10 at Calle 14, tel. 984/873-1965, www.aqualunahtl.com, US$71–91 s/d with a/c, US$111 suite with a/c) is an intimate hotel with Mediterranean style. Units are simple and airy, with white-washed walls, blue accents, and original art from Jalisco; they all open onto a leafy, winding courtyard. Amenities are upscale: flat-screen TVs, in-room phone, safes, and Wi-Fi; guests also enjoy beach access and pool access at sister establishments. Gay friendly, and service is impeccable.
Hotel Barrio Latino (Calle 4 btwn 10 and 15 Avs., tel. 984/873-2384, www.hotelbarriolatino.com, US$59 s/d, US$65–75 s/d with a/c) offers charming rooms with mosaic-tile bathrooms, stone-inlaid floors, and private balconies. A complimentary continental breakfast is served in a leafy courtyard with a palapa-roofed lounge—a good place to write postcards or play cards. Wireless Internet access and most international phone calls are also included in the rate. Uppity service is the only complaint.
An adults-only hotel, Luna Blue Hotel (Calle 26 btwn 5 and 10 Avs., tel. 984/873-0990, www.lunabluehotel.com, US$80–110 s/d with a/c) is a leafy oasis, and an excellent value, just off busy Quinta Avenida. Rooms are tidy, if a bit sterile, and range from standard-issue hotel rooms to suites with a kitchen to “Treetop Terrace” units with private balconies. Most enjoy views of the garden, with its colorful Adirondack chairs and canopy of tropical trees. A fully stocked bar (complete with friendly bartender) is a popular place for guests most afternoons and evenings. Wi-Fi, beach club passes, and purified water are all included. Complimentary coffee, tea, and homemade muffins offered in the mornings, too.
Hotel Riviera Caribe Maya (10 Av. at Calle 30, tel. 984/873-1193, www.hotelrivieramaya.com, US$58 s/d–130 s/d with a/c) offers bright rooms with hand-carved Mexican furnishings and modern amenities like mini air conditioners, cable TV, in-room phone, and minifridge. Many have patios or balconies that look out onto the hotel’s small inviting pool, which is tucked into a pleasant courtyard. The more expensive rooms are located in a newer building and are larger, with wood-floor balconies and deluxe features like king-size beds and Jacuzzi tubs. Wi-Fi and continental breakfast are included in all the rates.
US$100–150
Hotel LunaSol (Calle 4 btwn 15 and 20 Avs., tel. 984/873-3933, www.lunasolhotel.com, US$104–114 s/d with a/c) offers 16 comfortable rooms, all with private balconies or terraces, that are spread out between two modern thatch-roofed buildings. The rooms are a bit sparse for the rate but have nice tile bathrooms, minifridges, and flat-screen TVs. Ask for one on the 2nd floor—those have high ceilings and the best natural light. Best of all, in the garden there’s a fully equipped outdoor kitchen for guest use as well as a gorgeous swimming pool complete with an attached Jacuzzi.
The front and back sections at Aventura Mexicana Hotel (Calle 24 btwn 5 and 10 Avs., tel. 984/873-1876, www.aventuramexicana.com, US$118–132 s/d with a/c, US$144 deluxe s/d with a/c) are similarly priced but are worlds apart in terms of quality. The boutique-inspired deluxe rooms have muted colors, elegant furnishings, and high-end amenities, and open onto a nicely manicured garden and inviting pool—these (and the pool) are reserved for adults only. By contrast, the standard rooms have plain-Jane decor and furnishings, springy beds, and a long and thin pool crammed in the center of the courtyard. The back area is for families (and cheaper), but the stark difference in quality makes you feel a bit like a second-class citizen.
US$150–200
The Blue Pearl Suites (1 Av. btwn Calles 10 and 12, tel. 984/803-2379, www.thebluepearl.com.mx, US$132–207 suites with a/c and kitchen) offers stylish, comfortable, and ecofriendly apartments that typically sleep 2–4 people, but some have room for up to eight. All have fully equipped kitchens (complete with recycling and composting bins) and a private balcony or patio with hammocks and an outdoor tub. Rooms have gorgeous original art but otherwise pleasingly minimalist decor, plus Wi-Fi and daily cleaning (even your dishes!). There’s a nice public beach around the corner, though a small rooftop pool and solarium are nice for enjoying the sun and impressive view. Be aware that some units have steep spiral staircases, and noise from nearby bars may disrupt light sleepers, especially on weekends (the a/c units help mask the din, however).
A palpably urban hipster hotel, Básico (5 Av. near Calle 10, tel. 984/879-4448, www.hotelbasico.com, US$135–275 s/d with a/c) has high-end rooms with an industrial-warehouse feel; apparently, oil tankers plying the Gulf of Mexico provided the inspiration (seriously!). Needless to say, despite the stark, cement look, the rooms are ultraplush—deep beds, fine linens, flat-screen TVs, floor-to-ceiling windows, even big tubs in some. There also is a retro seafood restaurant/lounge (5 P.M.–2 A.M. daily) on the top floor with views of the Caribbean; it’s ultracool and ul-traloud: Techno will keep you up—or dancing—late into the night.
A classy beachfront hotel, 
Playa Palms (Av. 1 Bis near Calle 14, tel. 984/803-3966, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/681-9510, toll-free U.S./ Can. tel. 888/676-4431, www.playpalms.com, US$135–235 s/d with a/c, US$185 suite with a/c) has airy rooms with high-end furnishings and colorful Oaxacan decor. Many have balconies with ocean views, and all open onto a thin pool that snakes through the leafy interior courtyard to the beach. Complimentary coffee and pastries are available every morning, though room service is offered for breakfast in bed. Wi-Fi, cable TV, iPod docks, and basic cooking facilities (microwave, coffeemaker, fridge, and sink) complement already very comfortable rooms.
Playa Maya (on the beach btwn Calles 6 and 8, tel. 984/803-2022, www.playa-maya.com, US$150–200 s/d with a/c, US$175 suite a/c with kitchenette) is one of relatively few small hotels in Playa that have direct beach access—a great feature. All 20 rooms are modern and comfortable, including some with kitchen, balcony, and ocean views. The beach is attractive and relaxing, and the hotel has lounge chairs and shaded tables right on the sand. But the beach entrance has its drawbacks, too—you may end up lugging your bags across the sand if there’s no porter around to help, plus there’s no handicap access. There’s also a minimum stay of 4–5 nights, depending on the season.
Over US$200
Fronting one of the best beaches in Playa, 
Hotel Las Palapas (Calle 34 btwn 5 Av. and the beach, tel. 984/873-4260, www.laspalapas.com, US$170–270 s/d with a/c) offers 75 rooms in one- and two-story thatched-roof bungalows, opening onto either a lush garden brimming with native flora or a white-sand beach with breathtaking views. All units are peaceful, with comfortable beds, ample patios with hammocks, and radio access to an exceptional staff—no phones here (though there are TVs). A stone-lined path leads guests to an inviting freshwater pool, a clubhouse, a full-service spa, a dive shop, and—of course—beach chairs and umbrellas on the Caribbean. Be sure to climb the tall lookout platform for a spectacular bird’s-eye view of Playa del Carmen. Rates include a full buffet breakfast; half-board rates are available.
Mosquito Blue (5 Av. btwn Calles 12 and 14, tel. 984/873-1245, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/999-6666, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/547-8756, toll-free Can. tel. 866/940-5518, www.mosquitoblue.com, US$262–299 s/d with a/c, US$336–516 suite with a/c) boasts lush interior courtyards with two amoeba-shaped pools, an impressive palapa-roofed lounge, and striking fine art throughout. Rooms, though somewhat cramped, are beautifully appointed and have high-end amenities: digital safes, minibars, Egyptian linens, cable TV, and Wi-Fi. Its sister hotel, Mosquito Beach (Calle 8 at the beach, same tels., www.mosquitobeachhotel.com), has a similar style and rates but is located on the beach. Adults only for both.
An urban-chic hotel, Deseo (5 Av. at Calle 12, tel. 984/879-3620, www.hoteldeseo.com, US$205–235 s/d with a/c) has rooms that look as if they were in a modern art museum between exhibitions. Think empty, stark white walls, floor-to-ceiling white curtains, a mesh bag or note hanging from the wall, and photo-shoot lamps. Add minimalist furnishings, including a low-lying bed, and streamlined fixtures. Now, pump in some modern bossa nova. That’s the room. Just outside the door is the hotel’s bar/lounge/pool area, with queen-size mattresses serving as sun loungers and flowing white curtains strung high above. Very cool. Unless, of course, you want to sleep. Music from the lounge blasts until 2 A.M. The hotel provides earplugs, though—use ’em or join the party. A continental breakfast is included.
Mahékal Beach Resort (Calle 38 near 5 Av., tel. 984/873-0579, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/836-8942, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/235-4452, www.mahekalplaya.com, US$232–338 s/d with a/c, US$461 suite with a/c, US$504 casita with a/c, including breakfast and dinner) is made up of three sections of palapa-roofed bungalows with private terraces: Aventura, set apart from the rest of the resort, is the most upscale with entirely oceanfront units; Caribe is family oriented, with both garden-view and ocean-view bungalows (bathrooms are in sore need of updating, though); and Pueblito is in a tropical garden setting for adults only. Units all feature air-con and safety deposit box; there is no TV, phone, or Wi-Fi in the rooms. The resort’s facilities are kind of average, too—a mix of dated and renovated guest rooms, swimming pools, restaurants, and bars. The resort’s beach, though, is gorgeous. And that’s where you’ll probably end up most days. If you find a good Internet deal, nab it.
All-Inclusive Resorts
Most of Playa del Carmen’s all-inclusives are in Playacar, an upscale hotel and residential development south of town.
Iberostar Tucan (Av. Xaman-Ha, tel. 984/877-2000, www.iberostar.com, US$260–450 d all-inclusive) has a spacious lobby-entryway and wide attractive beach with palm trees, beach chairs, and mild surf. Separating the lobby and the beach is a broad patch of healthy, well-maintained coastal forest, where you can spot monkeys, parrots, and other native creatures in the treetops. After so many sterile and manicured resorts, this place feels like a welcome change of scenery. The pool is huge and near the beach. Rooms occupy large buildings along the property’s edges and are clean and comfortable, though plain. Junior suites have sea views.
Riu Palace Riviera Maya (Av. Xaman-Ha, tel. 984/877-2290, www.riu.com, US$260–575 d all-inclusive) is one of six all-inclusive Riu resorts clustered together in Playacar and the most upscale, though each resort in the group has its own appeal. The Palace Riviera Maya has an old-world look, with a soaring marble-floored lobby, ornate ironwork, and Renaissance-style paintings and artwork. The suite-only accommodations feature additional sitting areas, restrained colors and decor (unlike the gaudy mess common in so many all-inclusives), top-shelf liquors, and modern bathrooms, including hydromassage tubs. The beach and pool areas are spacious and appealing, and there are well-supplied gym and spa areas. Nightlife here can be a bit sedentary—it’s generally an older clientele—but the advantage of the Palace category is that you have access to the other Riu resorts, like the Tequila or Yucatán, which are often more lively.
Rental Properties
Playacar has scores of houses for rent of all sizes and styles. Prices vary considerably, but expect to pay a premium for ocean views and during peak seasons. A number of property-management companies rent houses, including Playacar Vacation Rentals (Calle 10 s/n, tel. 984/873-0418, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/862-7164, www.playacarvacationrentals.com) and Vacation Rentals (Plaza Antigua, Calle 10 s/n, tel. 984/873-2952, U.S. tel. 205/332-3458, www.playabeachrentals.com). Both offices are south of Avenida Juárez near the Playacar entrance.
FOOD
Playa del Carmen has scores of restaurants and eateries offering a variety of culinary delights. Walk a block or two down Quinta Avenida, and you’re sure to spot something that you like.
Mexican
La Cueva del Chango (Calle 38 near 5 Av., 984/147-0271, www.lacuevadelchango.com, 8 A.M.–11 P.M. Mon.–Sat., 8 A.M.–2 P.M. Sun., US$5–15) means The Cave of the Monkey, but there’s nothing dim or primitive about it: The covered dining area has lighthearted decor (and a back patio ensconced in leafy vegetation), while the menu features crepes, empanadas, and innovative items like eggs with polenta and chaya. It’s often packed with Playa’s upper crust, though the prices make it accessible to all.
Carboncitos (Calle 4 btwn Avs. 5 and 10, tel. 984/873-1382, tel. 984/803-3498, US$5–15) is a traveler favorite in Playa, serving terrific Mexican food (and some things you may be missing from home, like fresh salads) in a friendly and welcoming setting. Prices and portions are reasonable by Playa standards, and the restaurant gets the little things right, like tasty guacamole and homemade salsas.
If you like regional tortas (sandwiches), you shouldn’t miss Frutiyogurth (Plaza Pelícanos, Av. 10 near Calle 10, tel. 984/803-2516, www.frutiyogurth.com.mx, 8 A.M.–10:30 P.M. daily, US$3–7). A bustling little eatery, it offers classic Mexican sandwiches piled high with fillings like chipotle chicken and milanesa (chicken fried steak) in half and full orders. A variety of salads are offered, as is a monster selection of fresh juices and smoothies—over 30 types in all! Healthy—and not so healthy—breakfast options are served all day, too. Delivery available.
An old-school Mexican coffee shop, Café Andrade (Calle 8 near 20 Av., tel. 998/846-8257, 7 A.M.–11 P.M. daily, US$2–5) serves up mean breakfast and dinner plates with tacos, chilaquiles, mole, enchiladas…you name it, they’ll whip it up. It’s so typical, in fact, that you’re likely only to see locals—during the week, businessmen puffing away at cigarettes, or on weekends, families out for a bite.
Seafood
Unassuming and refreshingly untouristy, La Pesca (30 Av. near Av. Constituyentes, no phone, noon–10 P.M. daily, US$5–15) specializes in super-fresh seafood, including hefty fish and shrimp plates, tasty ceviche, and great fish tacos. It’s a bit of a hike from the center and has a view of a supermarket parking lot, but it is a tasty way to get off Quinta Avenida.
Ula-Gula (5 Av. at Calle 10, 2nd Fl., tel. 984/879-3727, 4:30 P.M.–midnight daily, US$9–25) serves outstanding gourmet meals in an appealing dining area overlooking Quinta Avenida. Though the menu is international in breadth, the seafood is the real standout here, whether appetizers like tuna with wasabi and soy sauce, or the fish of the day prepared with a parsley Gorgonzola sauce. For dessert, the chocolate fondant—a small chocolate cake filled with rich chocolate syrup and accompanied by ice cream—is divine.
Other Specialties
For an intimate gourmet dinner, 
Season Bistro (Calle 8 btwn Av. 5 and the beach, tel. 984/879-4802, www.seasonbistro.com, 4–11 P.M. Wed.–Mon., US$14–35) is an excellent choice, especially considering Playa’s high-end dining options are a bit limited. Here, the menu changes by the season in order to use the freshest products in the market. Whatever time of year it is, though, you’ll be treated to imaginative appetizers and mains, like duck spring rolls, spinach and portobello ravioli, and fois gras, served indoors or on the restaurant’s shady patio.
John Gray’s Place (Calle Corazón near Calle 14, tel. 984/803-3689, www.johngrayrestaurantgroup.com, 1–5 P.M. and 6–11 P.M. Mon.–Sat., US$15–30) is the daughter to the original John Gray’s Kitchen in Puerto Morelos, widely considered one of the best restaurants on the Riviera Maya. The kid lives up to expectations, expertly fusing gourmet American cuisine with flavors from around the world. The menu changes daily, but expect dishes like tuna carpaccio with wasabi cream and sweet soy sauce, or spicy crab cakes with cilantro-leek fondue. Credit cards are accepted, fortunately.
If you want a change of pace, Maktub Caffé (5 Av. btwn Calles 28 and 30, tel. 984/803-3886, noon–1 A.M. daily, US$5–12) serves up mouthwatering Lebanese food—tabbouleh, hummus, falafel. It also has hookahs and flavored tobacco to relax by. Look for it in a string of hip, bustling restaurants and bars on Quinta.
Although occasionally missing the mark, oldtimer Babe’s Noodles and Bar (Calle 10 btwn 5 Av. and 10 Av., tel. 984/803-0056, www.babesnoodlesandbar.com, 1–11 P.M. Mon.–Sat., US$6–14) still serves up delicious Thai-fusion meals in a hip bistro setting. Dishes come in half and full orders. Don’t miss a chance at ordering the limonmenta, an awesome lime-mint slushie. It’s not a huge place, so you may have to wait for a table during high season, or if you prefer, head to its sister restaurant down the street (5 Av. btwn Calles 28 and 30, cell. tel. 984/120-2592, 5–11 P.M. Mon.–Sat.).
100% Natural (5 Av. btwn Calles 10 and 12, tel. 984/873-2242, 7 A.M.–11 P.M. daily, US$6–12) serves mostly vegetarian dishes and a large selection of fresh fruit juices. Service can be hit or miss, but the food is fresh and well prepared. Tables are scattered through a leafy garden area and covered patio—great for taking a break from the sun.
If you’re looking for cheap eats, check out the string of hole-in-the-wall eateries (Av. 10 btwn Calles 8 and 10, US$1.25–4) across the street from Plaza Pelícanos. Here you’ll have your choice of tacos, tortas (Mexican-style sandwiches), crepes, pizza by the slice, and smoothie stands, all at decent prices. Most are open 9 A.M.–10 P.M. daily.
Cafés and Bakeries
The charming old-world Café Sasta (5 Av. btwn Calles 8 and 10, 7 A.M.–11:30 P.M. daily, US$1.50–5) offers a tempting display of muffins, scones, cupcakes—even cheesecake—to go along with the full coffee menu. Seating is available indoors and outdoors. Takeout-only after 11 P.M.
Chocolate lovers will melt over 
Ah Cacao (5 Av. at Av. Constituyentes, tel. 984/803-5748, www.ahcacao.com, 7 A.M.–11:30 P.M. daily, US$2–5), a chocolate café where every item on the menu—from coffees to cakes—is homemade from the finest of beans. A sister shop (Calle 30 near 5 Av., tel. 984/879-4179, 7 A.M.–11:30 P.M. daily) is located up the street from Playa Tukán.
You’ll smell Hot (Calle Corazón at Calle 14, www.thehotbakingcompany.com, 7:30 A.M.–9:30 P.M. daily, US$4.50–10) a block away—this café bakes fresh breads and pastries all day. Most people end up staying for more than just a brownie, though—the menu full of sandwiches prepared on whole wheat or sunflowerseed bread is almost impossible to resist. The shady outdoor eating area is a great place to enjoy a leisurely breakfast, too.
Service can be slow, but Café Corazón (5 Av. btwn Calles 28 and 30, no phone, 7:30 A.M.–midnight daily, US$4–10) is a good place to enjoy a wait, with Italian coffee and fresh-squeezed juice, and good people watching from the outdoor tables. Sandwiches figure prominently on the menu, with fillers like smoked salmon, Italian salami, avocado, and egg, served on a baguette, bagel, or toast.
Groceries
Walmart (Calle 8 btwn Avs. 20 and 25, 7 A.M.–midnight daily) has arrived in Playa, opening a huge superstore right behind city hall—how’s that for a metaphor?—with everything from clothes, shoes, and snorkel gear to groceries, prepared food, and a full pharmacy. Liquor sales end at 11 P.M.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
There is no tourist information office in Playa, but the tourist police have a kiosk on the plaza (5 Av. at Av. Juárez, 24 hours), which often is stocked with brochures and maps.
Quinta (www.grupoquinta.com) and Sac-Be (www.sac-be.com) are free monthly magazines that usually offer a handful of useful articles, listings, and events calendars.
Emergency Services
Hospiten Riviera Maya (Hwy. 307 s/n, tel. 984/803-1002, www.hospiten.com, 24 hours) is a private hospital offering modern, high-quality medical service at reasonable rates. Many of the doctors have U.S. training and speak English, and are accustomed to treating foreign visitors and expats. It is located on the southern edge of Playa, on the east side of the highway, across from the Centro Maya mall.
Playa also has a hyperbaric chamber, operated by Playa International Clinic (10 Av. at Calle 28 Norte, tel. 984/803-1215, emergency tel. 984/873-1365, 9 A.M.–8 P.M. Mon.–Fri., 9 A.M.–2 P.M. and 5–7 P.M. Sat.).
For emergency ambulance service, call 065 from any public phone.
Farmacia Yza (tel. 984/873-2727) is a 24-hour pharmacy located on 10 Avenida between Calles 12 and 14; delivery available.
The tourist police (tel. 984/877-3340, or 060 from any pay phone) have an office on Avenida Juárez and 15 Avenida, and informational kiosks along Quinta Avenida, theoretically operating 24 hours a day.
Money
Banamex (Calle 12 at 10 Av., 9 A.M.–4 P.M. Mon.–Fri.) and Banorte (Plaza Pelícanos, 10 Av. btwn Calles 8 and 10, 9 A.M.–6 P.M. Mon.–Fri., 10 A.M.–2 P.M. Sat.) are full-service banks with ATMs and foreign exchange. There also are several freestanding ATMs around town.
Media and Communications
The post office (Calle 2 at Av. 20, 9 A.M.–4 P.M. Mon.–Fri., 9 A.M.–noon Sat.) is easy to miss—look for the dilapidated building near the combi terminal.
There’s no shortage of Internet cafés in Playa, most offering additional services like international phone calls, Skype, photo downloads, CD burning, and more. At the south end of town, try Telefónica Sami (Calle 4 near Av. 15, 9 A.M.–9 P.M. daily, US$1/hr Internet, US$0.15/min call to U.S. and Canada, US$0.45/min to Europe); on the north end, Chango (Av. 1 near Calle 26, 9 A.M.–9 P.M. Mon.–Sat., US$2.50/hr) offers open-air computer terminals with Skype, coffee drinks, fresh squeezed juices, and crepes.
Immigration and Consulates
Playa del Carmen’s immigration office (Plaza Antigua mall, 2nd Fl., Calle 10, tel. 998/881-3560, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. Mon.–Fri.) is located on the road to Playacar. Avoid using it, however, as the one in Cancún is more efficient. A tourist visa extension, or prórroga, can take a week or more in Playa and involves considerable documentation; in Cancún, the same process is simplified and takes as little as two hours.
The U.S. Consular Agency (Calle 1 btwn Avs. 15 and 20, tel. 984/873-0303, playausca@ gmail.com) is open 10 A.M.–1 P.M. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
Laundry and Storage
A convenient place to get your clothes washed is Lavendería Premium Los Mecates (Calle 4 near 20 Av., 8:30 A.M.–9 P.M. Mon.–Sat., US$1/kilo). Same-day service is available if you drop your clothes off early. Three-kilo (6.6-pound) minimum.
If you’re staying on the other end of town, try Valentino’s (1 Av. btwn Calles 24 and 26, cell. tel. 984/116-4584, 8 A.M.–9 P.M. Mon.–Sat., noon–4 P.M. Sun., US$1/kilo, 3.5-kilo minimum) for your laundry needs instead. Pick up and delivery is available—text or call.
Luggage storage is available at Guarda Volumen (Terminal Alterna bus station, Calle 20 btwn Calles 12 and 12 Bis, 6 A.M.–10 P.M. daily). Rates run US$0.50–1 per hour depending on the size of the bag.
Language and Instruction
Playa del Carmen is becoming a popular place to study Spanish, with several schools, plenty of options for cultural and historical excursions, and of course good nightlife and great beaches.
Solexico (35 Av. btwn Calles 6 and 6 Bis, tel. 984/873-0755, www.solexico.com) is a highly recommended school with a reputation for professionalism. Classes are offered in groups of no more than five people or individual classes, and for 15, 20, 25, or 40 hours per week (US$181–631 per week). All levels of courses are offered, including instruction geared toward professionals who have regular contact with Spanish speakers. Students can stay with local families (US$189–210/ week with breakfast, US$210–238/week half board), at the school’s 10-room student residence (US$224–280 per week), or arrange for hotel and condo rentals. Ask about volunteer opportunities.
Playalingua del Caribe (Calle 20 btwn 5 and 10 Av., tel. 984/873-3876, www.playalingua.com, 8 A.M.–8 P.M. daily) has a spacious learning center with a leafy garden and small private pool. Courses vary from standard to intensive classes (10 hours/week or 20–25 hours/week) and are offered in 4–7 person groups, two-person workshops, or one-on-one settings. Rates vary accordingly, from US$110 to US$320 per week. Lodging options include staying with a local family (US$185/ week half board) or in small, clean, air-conditioned rooms right at the school, so you can roll out of bed and be conjugating verbs in a matter of minutes (US$175–270 pp/week, including breakfast). One-time materials and inscription fees are about US$110; weekend excursions and extras classes, including Maya language, Mexican cooking, and wood carving, are also available for an additional fee.
See PLAYA DEL CARMEN BUS SCHEDULES
International House (Calle 14 Norte btwn 5 Av. and 10 Av., tel. 984/803-3388, www.ihrivieramaya.com, 7:30 A.M.–9 P.M. Mon.–Fri., 7:30 A.M.–noon Sat.) occupies a pretty and peaceful colonial home, with a large classroom, garden, bar, and restaurant on-site. All instructors are university graduates with training in teaching Spanish as a foreign language. Group classes meet for four hours per day Monday–Friday and have a maximum of eight students, though typically just 3–4 (US$220/ week, free enrollment and materials, ages 16 and over only). Private and two-person classes are also available (US$30–35/hour), as are custom courses for medical professionals, teachers, and other groups, plus additional activities like diving, Mexican cooking, and Latin dancing. Family stays can be arranged for US$210–245 per week, with breakfast or half board, while a variety of furnished apartments and student rooms, single and shared, with or without meals, run US$161–595 per week.
GETTING THERE
Air
Playa del Carmen has an airport a few blocks from the ferry pier, but it’s used for private and charter flights only, with just one runway and no official terminal. Commercial service is available at Cancún’s international airport, a short drive north of Playa del Carmen.
Bus
Playa del Carmen has two bus stations: Terminal Turística (aka Terminal Riviera, 5 Av. and Av. Juárez) is in the center of town and has frequent second-class service to destinations along the coast, including Cancún, Tulum, and everything in between; and Terminal Alterna (Calle 20 btwn Calles 12 and 12 Bis) has first-class and deluxe service to interior destinations such as Mérida, Campeche, and beyond. There is some overlap, and you can buy tickets for any destination at either station, so always double-check from which station your bus departs.
Combi
Combis (shuttle vans, tel. 984/873-0032) are an easy way to get up and down the Riviera Maya. In Playa, northbound combis line up on Calle 2 near 20 Avenida, leaving every 15 minutes, from 3 A.M. to 1 A.M. daily. The final destination is Cancún’s main bus terminal (US$3, 50 minutes), but you can be dropped off anywhere along the highway, including Puerto Morelos (US$2, 20 minutes). Combis do not enter Cancún’s Zona Hotelera, but you can catch a bus there from outside the terminal.
South from Playa del Carmen, combis leave from the same corner every 15 minutes, 5 A.M.–11 P.M. daily. They go as far as the Tulum bus station (US$3, 1 hour), passing the turnoffs for Puerto Aventuras (US$1.75, 10 minutes), Xpu-Há (US$2, 20 minutes), Akumal (US$2.50, 25 minutes), Hidden Worlds (US$2.75, 40 minutes), Tankah Tres (US$3, 45 minutes), and Tulum Ruins (US$3, 50 minutes). To return, flag down a combi anywhere along the highway.
Car
If you are driving to Playa del Carmen, look for the two main access roads to the beach—Avenida Constituyentes on the north end of town and Avenida Benito Juárez on the south. Playacar has its own entrance from the highway but can also be reached by turning south on Calle 10 off Avenida Juárez.
Ferry
Passenger ferries to Cozumel (US$11.75 each way, 30 minutes) leave from the pier at the end of Calle 1 Sur. UltraMar (www.granpuerto.com.mx) and Mexico Water Jets (www.mexicowaterjets.com.mx) alternate departures and charge the same amount, though UltraMar’s
Large modern ferries carry passengers to and from Playa del Carmen and Cozumel, about a half-hour journey.
boats are newer. Their ticket booths are side by side at the foot of the pier, with the time of the next departure displayed prominently. The ticket seller will probably try to sell you a round-trip ticket, but it makes more sense, and costs the same, to buy a sencilla (one-way ticket) and wait to see which ferry has the next departure when you’re ready to return. Between the two companies, there are ferries every 1–2 hours on the hour from 7 A.M. to 10 P.M. daily.
Car ferries operated by Transcaribe (tel. 987/872-7688 in Cozumel) depart from the Calica/Punta Venado dock south of Playa at 8 A.M., 1:30 P.M., and 6 P.M. Monday–Saturday and at 8 A.M. and 6 P.M. on Sunday. Returning from Cozumel, the ferry leaves from the international pier at 11 A.M., 4 P.M., and 10 P.M. Monday–Saturday and at 11 A.M. and 10 P.M. on Sunday. The trip takes about 90 minutes and costs US$32 for a car including driver, and US$5 for each additional passenger. Arrive at least an hour in advance to get a spot.
GETTING AROUND
Playa del Carmen is a walking town, although the steady northward expansion is challenging that description. The commercial part of Quinta Avenida now stretches 32 blocks and keeps getting longer. Cabs are a good option, especially if you have luggage.
Taxi
Taxis around town cost US$2–5, or a bit more if you use a taxi stand or have your hotel summon one. All taxi drivers carry a tarifario—an official fare schedule—which you can ask to see if you think you’re getting taken for a ride (so to speak ...). Prices do change every year or two, so ask at your hotel what the current rate is, and always be sure to agree on the fare with the driver before setting off.
Car
Playa has myriad car rental agencies, and prices can vary considerably. Prices are highest at the major agencies, like Hertz, National, Avis, and Executive, but they often have great deals online. At local agencies, like Zipp Rent-A-Car (10 Av. btwn Calles 2 and 4, tel. 998/873-0696, www.zipp.com.mx, 8 A.M.–6 P.M. daily), you may be able to negotiate lower rates, especially during low season and for rentals of a week or more. Expect to pay US$45–65 a day for a car, with taxes and insurance included.
Parking in Playa in the high season can be a challenge, especially south of Avenida Constituyentes. Many hotels have secure parking; there are also parking lots around town, including on Calle 2 at 10 Avenida (8 A.M.–10 P.M. daily, US$1/hr or US$8.50/day).
PAAMUL
What started out as an unassuming trailer park on a beautiful stretch of beach has now become a seaside community all its own. Located about 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) south of Playa del Carmen, Paamul has everything from RVs with elaborate wood and palapa structures over them to hotel rooms, a restaurant, and even a dive shop.
Beach
Paamul stretches over a wide curving beach. It’s clean and classically pretty with white sand and turquoise water—perfect for swimming and exploring. Watch your step on the south end of the beach, as its waters harbor prickly sea urchin—consider wearing water shoes.
Snorkeling and Scuba Diving
Scuba-Mex (Hwy. 307 Km. 85, tel. 984/875-1066, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/871-6255, www.scubamex.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) is a full-service shop offering one- and two-tank dive trips to open-water sites and cenotes (US$39–80 including equipment). A variety of packages and dive courses are available at competitive rates. If you’re just interested in snorkeling off the beach, the shop rents snorkel gear for US$6 per day.
Accommodations
Offering a little bit of everything, 
Hotel Paamul (Hwy. 307 Km. 85, tel. 984/875-1053, www.paamul.com, US$12.50 pp tent, US$30 RVs, US$100 s/d cabañas, US$125 s/d with a/c, US$167 s/d with a/c and kitchenette) appeals to travelers of all budgets. Best of all are the hotel rooms. All are boutiquey in style, with muted colors, gleaming bathtubs, quiet air-con, minifridge and microwave, and gorgeous ocean views from private terraces. Next best are, surprisingly, the tent and trailer spaces. Although set up in the main parking lot, all have electricity, running water, and clean shared hot-water bathrooms just steps from the Caribbean. Dead last are the cabañas. Constructed in 2000, they look as if they’ve been through decades of wear and tear: wood floors with holes, cement walls with paint thrown on, and granny-style decor. All in all, this is a find.
Food
Open-air, modern, and with a great view of the Caribbean, the Reefs of Paamul Restaurant and Bar (Hwy. 307 Km. 85, tel. 984/875-1053, 8 A.M.–8 P.M. daily, US$5–16) serves up classic Mexican dishes along with a variety of international meals. There’s something for everyone, which makes it an easy choice. (Good thing, since it’s the only restaurant in Paamul.)
For groceries, the very mini Mini Super Paa Mul (7 A.M.–8 P.M. Mon.–Sat., 7 A.M.–2 P.M. Sun.) sells basic foodstuffs. It’s located at the highway turnoff to Paamul.
Puerto Aventuras
Puerto Aventuras is an odd conglomeration of condos, summer homes, and hotels, organized around a large marina, including a swim-with-dolphins area. It’s more than a resort but not really a town. Whatever you call it, Puerto Aventuras’s huge signs and gated entrance are impossible to miss, located a few minutes north of Akumal on Highway 307.
MUSEO SUB-ACUÁTICO CEDAM
Short for Conservation, Ecology, Diving, Archaeology, and Museums, CEDAM runs this very worthwhile museum (Bldg. F, no phone, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. and 2:30–5:30 P.M. Mon.–Sat., donation requested), displaying a wide variety of items: Maya offerings that were dredged from the peninsula’s cenotes, artifacts recovered from nearby colonial shipwrecks, early diving equipment, and photos of open-water and cenote explorations, some from the halcyon days of diving when jeans were the preferred get-up.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Snorkeling and Scuba Diving
Some 25 dive sites lie within a 10-minute boat ride from the marina, each boasting rich coral, abundant sealife, and interesting features, like pillars and swim-throughs, found up and down the coast.
Aquanauts (Bldg. A, tel. 984/873-5041, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/623-2491, www.aquanauts-online.com, 8 A.M.–6 P.M. daily) is a safe full-service shop that enjoys lots of repeat guests. Divers can count on personal details (such as storing dry gear) and guest-first practices (such as staying under as long as your air permits, not just the standard 45 minutes). The shop offers the full range of dives and courses, including reef dives (US$45/one tank, US$85/two tanks), cenote dives (US$125/two tanks) and certification courses, including open water (US$510 private, US$445 pp group). Multidive packages are available; equipment rental is included in courses but not fun dives (US$20/day). The shop also offers snorkel tours to the reef, cenotes, or a combination of both, or even a stop at Tulum ruins (US$45–90, including equipment, snacks, and drinks). Reservations are recommended in high season for all tours and courses.
Swimming with Dolphins
Dolphin Discovery (Marina, tel. 984/873-5078, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/727-5391, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/393-5158, www.dolphindiscovery.com, 9 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) offers several dolphin-encounter activities, ranging in price based on the amount and type of interaction you have. For the most contact, the Royal Swim program (US$129, 30-minute orientation, 30 minutes in water) includes two dolphins per group of 10 people, with a chance to do a “dorsal tow,” “foot push,” and “kiss,” plus some open swim time. The Swim Adventure (US$99) and Dolphin Encounter (US$79) have somewhat less direct contact. The center also has manatee and sea-lion programs that can be taken in combo with dolphins. Programs start at 9 A.M., 11:30 A.M., 1:30 P.M., and 3:30 P.M. daily; free shuttle service is available to and from area hotels.
Sportfishing
Capt. Rick’s Sportfishing Center (past Omni Puerto Aventuras hotel, tel. 984/873-5195, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/449-3562, www.fishyucatan.com, office 8 A.M.–7 P.M. daily) offers customized fishing trips for groups and individuals. Trolling is the most popular, going for dorado, tuna, barracuda, sailfish, and even marlin. Bottom/drift fishing is also fun and targets “dinner fish” such as grouper, snapper, and yellowtail. You can also arrange time for visiting a deserted beach or Maya ruin, snorkeling on the reef, or just cruising by upscale homes and hotels. Choose from 10 different boats, ranging in length from 23 to 46 feet, with capacity for 2–12 anglers. Rates are for half day (US$275–575), three-quarter day (US$375–775), and full day (US$475–950). For a special outing, ask about Last Flight Out, a 56-foot ocean yacht with room for 15 anglers that costs US$940–1,875 for half-day and full-day trips. Shared trips are US$95 per person for half day and US$190 for full day, and typically utilize a 31-foot boat for up to six anglers. All prices include equipment, bait, soft drinks, and water; full-day trips also include lunch. There’s good fishing year-round, but April–July are best for hooking into a billfish.
Dolphin encounters are a popular activity in the Riviera Maya.
Sailing
Fat Cat (Bldg. E, tel. 984/873-5899, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/724-5464, www.fatcatsail.com, 8:30 A.M.–5 P.M. Mon.–Sat.) offers a spacious custom-designed catamaran used for half-day excursions (US$95/59 adult/child ages 5–12) that include sailing north toward Bahia Ihna, or south toward Xpu-Há—both with good snorkeling in shallow and protected waters. You also can try “boom netting,” in which you are pulled through the water behind the boat on a thick boom net. Excursions include snorkel gear, boxed lunch, as well as pick-up/ drop-off at area hotels.
Golf
Puerto Aventuras Club de Golf (across from Bldg. B, tel. 984/873-5109, www.puertoaventuras.com/golf.html, 7:30 A.M.–dusk daily) offers a nine-hole, par-36 golf course right in town. The course, designed in 1991 by Tom Leman, is flat but has two par 5s over a total 2,961 yards (3,255 championship). Greens fees are US$88 including a golf cart and 18 holes; US$79 after 1 P.M., US$58 at 3 P.M. (nine holes only). Golf club rentals cost US$27; tennis racquets run US$5. Reservations are not usually required, though they are recommended for parties of four or more.
ACCOMMODATIONS
The road into town bumps right into Omni Puerto Aventuras (tel. 984/875-1950, www.omnihotels.com, US$180–300 s/d with a/c), a small upscale resort with the marina on one side and a fine, palm-shaded beach on the other. There are just 30 rooms, all reasonably spacious and attractive, with colorful regional decor and modern amenities. Best of all, every room has a private patio and hot tub; those with ocean views are especially lovely, though they cost more. The resort’s small size and low-key atmosphere make it easy to meet other guests, and nighttime typically finds everyone around the main hot tub/beach bar overlooking the ocean. Wi-Fi is available for free in the common areas, but access in your room runs an unseemly US$15/day. Significant discounts on rooms are available in the low season.
Casa del Agua (Punta Matzoma 21, tel. 984/873-5184, www.casadelagua.com, US$1,500–2,100 1–8 people for three nights, US$2,800–4,750 1–8 people per week) is a beacon of class and charm amid the plastic commercialism of Puerto Aventuras. More a large rental property than a hotel, it is rented out to individual groups; whether you occupy one room or all four, you’ll have the whole place to yourself. (There are seven-person, seven-night minimums during holidays, however.) The suites are huge—the bathrooms alone are bigger than some hotel rooms—and all have king-size beds, air-conditioning and fan, and daily maid service. There is a small sunny pool, and the beach is quiet and private, although rather steeply sloped; guests can make use of the hotel’s kayaks and snorkeling gear, too. Rates include a private chef—you just pay the cost of the food itself—and the hotel staff can even do your shopping for a small fee. Twelve and older only.
FOOD
Stroll around Puerto Aventuras’s marina, and you’ll pass pretty much every restaurant in town—it’s a veritable open-air food court with views of jumping dolphins. Restaurants offer Mexican, Italian, Mediterranean, and American classics—take a look at the specials and see what appeals to you most. If you can’t decide, Café Olé International (Bldg. A, tel. 984/873-5125, 8 A.M.–10 P.M. daily, US$5–25) has an extensive menu with something for just about everyone. It’s best known, though, for its filet mignon and homemade desserts.
If you’re cooking for yourself or just want some fresh fruit, check out the outdoor fruit and vegetable market (8:30 A.M.–3 P.M.), which is held every Saturday next to the town’s kiosk.
Located conveniently across from the Omni hotel, Super Akumal (7 A.M.–10 P.M. Mon.–Sat., 7 A.M.–8 P.M. Sun.) is the local market. Be aware that you can’t buy alcohol before 10 A.M. or after 9 P.M. Monday–Saturday, nor after 2 P.M. on Sunday.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
Despite the numbers of travelers who come to Puerto Aventuras, there is no tourist information office. Nevertheless, the town website— www.puertoaventuras.com—is a good resource.
Emergency Services
There is one pharmacy in town: First Aid Pharmacy (Bldg. A, tel. 984/873-5305, 8 A.M.–10 P.M. daily, or by telephone 24 hours).
Money
Puerto Aventuras doesn’t have a bank, but there’s a Banamex ATM next to Capt. Rick’s fishing shop and a Santander ATM near the entrance of Museo CEDAM. Both are accessible 24 hours.
Media and Communications
The post office (9–11 A.M. Mon.–Fri.) is in a large kiosk a short distance from the golf club entrance.
The coffee and brownies are great at Café-C@fé (Bldg. E, tel. 984/873-5728, 7 A.M.–10 P.M. Mon.–Fri., 8 A.M.–10 P.M. Sat.–Sun.), where you can get online for US$5 per hour or for much less with a prepaid 5- or 10-hour package. Wi-Fi is free if you buy something to eat or drink. International calls cost US$0.40 to the United States and Canada, US$0.80 to the rest of the world.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Arriving by public transportation, you can take a combi from Cancún, Playa del Carmen, or Tulum. Let the driver know where you’re going, and he’ll drop you off on the side of the highway. From there, it’s 500 meters (0.3 mile) into town. Arriving by car, you’ll pass through a large control gate, but no one who looks like a tourist is stopped.
In Puerto Aventuras, you can walk just about everywhere, as virtually all shops and services are centered around the marina. If you want to explore the town a bit further, though, Roll & Bike (Bldg. F, tel. 984/873-5029, US$4.25/$10 per hour/day) rents bikes by the hour and day, with discounts for rentals of three days or more. Look for it by the CEDAM museum.
Xpu-Há
This long, picturesque beach has clusters of development on either end and practically nothing in between. It seems only a matter of time before the owners of this enviable stretch of sand give their blessing to a megaresort, but for now it’s a gorgeous and peaceful spot where you could easily while away the whole day, or several.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Beach Clubs
La Playa Xpu-Há (Hwy. 307 Km. 265, tel. 984/106-0024, www.laplayaxpuha.com, 10 A.M.–6 P.M. daily) is a bustling club that offers a slew of classic beach activities, including parasailing, fishing, banana boats, snorkeling, and kayaking, all at standard prices. On weekends and holidays, there’s a US$2 per person “toll” at the entrance, charged by the landowner for upkeep of the access road. You get it back, though, as a credit on restaurant bills over US$10. There also is live music on Saturday and Sunday, beginning at 2:30 P.M.
Just down the beach, Xpu-Há Bonanza (entrance at Hwy. 307 Km. 265, tel. 984/116-4733, 9 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) has a much quieter scene, with a small number of beach chairs and umbrellas, yet close enough to La Playa to take advantage of the restaurant and water activities there. Parking and clean bathroom facilities are available.
Snorkeling
In addition to the ocean reef, there’s great snorkeling in the numerous cenotes along the inland side of Highway 307, including a cluster just north of Xpu-Há. They vary in size, but most are like large ponds, some with high or overhanging limestone walls, and all filled with cool crystalline water—heaven on a hot day. The cenote floor is often a jumble of stone slabs and in places quite deep—some even have gaping underwater caves that descend out of sight. The cenotes near Xpu-Há are not, however, the huge stalactite-laden caverns you may have seen in photos; for those, head south to Hidden Worlds or Dos Ojos cenote parks, both near Tulum.
Cenote Cristalino (Hwy. 307, 2 kilometers /1.2 miles north of Xpu-Há, 8 A.M.–6 P.M. daily) charges US$4.25, with no rental gear available. Much of this half-moon-shaped cenote is shallow and covered in algae, but one section extends under a deep overhanging rock ceiling.
Jardín del Edén (formerly Ponderosa Cenote, Hwy. 307, 1.75 kilometers/1 mile north of Xpu-Há, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. Sun.–Fri.) is much larger than most cenotes—almost like a small lake—with a craggy floor that makes for fun snorkeling. At one end, the floor falls away into a deep underwater cave, where you can see divers emerging—or disappearing—into the abyss, their halogen lights piercing the shadows. A six-meter (19.7-foot) cliff is fun to jump off; just be alert for divers who may be coming up. Between cave-diving classes, snorkeling groups, and independent travelers, Jardín del Edén can get busy but is generally big enough to make a stop here worthwhile. Admission is US$4.25 adult, US$2.25 child, US$3.50 to rent mask and snorkel, and US$3.50 for a life vest.
Snorkel, dive, or just enjoy the sun and water at Jardín del Edén, one of dozens of cenotes along the Riviera Maya.
At Cenote Azul (Hwy. 307, 1.5 kilometers /0.9 mile north of Xpu-Há, 8 A.M.–6 P.M. daily, US$4.25, US$3 mask and snorkel, US$3 life vest), a few large pools and a section of overhanging rock are the highlights, and walkways along the edges facilitate getting in and out.
Scuba Diving
Bahía Divers (Hwy. 307 Km 265, tel. 984/120-1546, www.bahiadivers.com) operates out of a small hut a short distance down the beach from La Playa Xpu-Há beach club. It offers the full gamut of ocean and cenote dives, plus certification courses and snorkeling and fishing trips, all with the advantage of small groups (six divers max) and personalized service. They also provide transport to and from your hotel, which is very handy. Ocean dives cost US$85 for two tanks (or US$155 to Isla Cozumel), while cenote diving runs US$110 for two tanks, all including gear. Snorkeling trips are US$25 per person in the ocean (minimum four people) or US$50 per person in the cenotes (minimum two).
ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD
Xpu-Há Bonanza (entrance at Hwy. 307 Km. 265, tel. 984/116-4733, US$8.50 pp camping, US$15 RVs, US$42 s/d) is a low-key beachfront spot with room for camping and RVs, plus eight large hotel rooms. The latter have two beds and two hammocks and clean cold-water bathrooms, but they lack natural light. Travelers with tents can set up in the sand under a palm tree and have access to clean-ish shared bathrooms. To get here, look for a narrow dirt road with a small sign, just south of the Catalonia Royal Tulum resort.
Hotel Esencia (Hwy. 307 Km. 265, tel. 984/873-4835, U.S. tel. 877/528-3490 or 713/528-7162, www.hotelesencia.com, US$700–1,050 s/d with fan, US$950–2,050 two-br cottage) is a luxurious private estate turned resort. It boasts 29 gorgeous stark white rooms, each with a plunge pool and modern amenities like flat-screen TVs and surround-sound audio systems with MP3 ports. The beach is a mile long and just steps away, with plenty of palapa shades and loungers, so there’s no need to claim a spot before the sun rises. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant faces the Caribbean; guests can enjoy a daily continental breakfast as well as afternoon tea here. There’s also a full-service spa on-site, and yoga instruction is offered every morning. Service, as expected, is impeccable.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
There are no services in Xpu-Há, save what’s available to guests at Hotel Esencia and Catalonia Royal Tulum resort. For Internet, laundry, ATM, and other services, head to Akumal or Puerto Aventuras.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Each of the listings for Xpu-Há has its own access road, marked with large or small signs, and located at or near Km. 265 on the main coastal highway. Catalonia Royal Tulum resort is the largest and most obvious landmark; the other access roads are within a few hundred yards. La Plaza and Xpu-Há Bonanza, at the southern end of the beach, are the best access points if you’re only staying the day.
Akumal
Unreachable by land until the 1960s, Akumal (literally, Place of the Turtle) is a quiet, upscale community that has developed on two bays: Akumal and Half Moon. It’s a low-key place with sand roads and dozens of condominiums and rental homes. The beach in town is decent—if you don’t mind the boats occasionally parked on the sand—and the one around Half Moon Bay is calm though rocky in places. Just offshore, a spectacular portion of barrier reef makes for great diving and snorkeling, and protects Akumal’s bays from the open sea.
A short distance south of Akumal proper is Aventuras Akumal, another small bayside development. It doesn’t have the townlike feel or activity that Akumal does, but two good condo-hotels and a truly gorgeous beach make this a tempting alternative. Aventuras Akumal has a separate access road from the highway, and walking there along the beach takes about 45 minutes.
SIGHTS
Beaches
Akumal Bay—the one right in front of town—has a long, slow-curving shoreline, with soft sand shaded by palm trees. The water is beautiful but a bit rocky underfoot, and you should be aware of boat traffic when swimming or snorkeling. Half Moon Bay also can be nice for swimming and snorkeling, but the shoreline is rocky in some places; consider wearing water shoes to help you ease into the water.
Laguna Yal-Ku
At the mouth of an elbow-shaped lagoon at the north end of Akumal, an endless upwelling of underground river water collides with the tireless flow of seawater—the result is a great place to snorkel, teeming with fish and plants adapted to this unique hybrid environment. Once a secret snorkeler’s getaway, Laguna Yal-Ku (8 A.M.–5:30 P.M. daily, US$9 adult, US$6 child ages 4–12, free age 3 and under, US$15 snorkel gear, US$2 locker) now has a spot in every guidebook and tour group itinerary—come before 10 A.M. or anytime on Sunday for the least traffic. (That, and a shot at snagging a private picnic area [US$20], complete with palapa shade, a table, and chairs, if you want to make a day of it.) You can snorkel in the lagoon’s broad mouth or up the narrow channel to its source. If possible, use a T-shirt or wetsuit instead of sunscreen—even the biodegradable kind can collect on plants and coral. The lagoon is dotted with various intriguing bronze sculptures by Mexican artist Alejandro Echeverría.
AKUMAL
Bronze statues above water, fish and other sealife below–what’s not to love at Laguna Yal-Ku?
Centro Ecológico Akumal
Next to Akumal Dive Shop, the Akumal Ecological Center (CEA, tel. 984/875-9095, www.ceakumal.org, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. and 2–6 P.M. Mon.–Fri.) is a nonprofit founded in 1993 to monitor the health of Akumal’s ecosystems, particularly related to coral and sea turtles. During turtle nesting season (May–July) you can join CEA volunteers on nighttime turtle walks, covering about two kilometers (1.25 miles) of beach, looking for new nests and helping move eggs to protected hatcheries. From August to October, visitors can help release a batch of hatchlings into the sea (9 P.M. Mon.–Fri.). Stop by the center for more details and to sign up; turtle outings and activities are free, but a US$10 donation is appreciated. The center also has free displays and frequent evening lectures on ocean ecology in the high season.
CEA also operates long-term volunteer projects on reef monitoring, sea-turtles monitoring, and environmental education projects. Volunteers stay in the center’s comfortable dorms, with kitchen and Internet access; minimum age is 21, and some fees are required. See the website for details.
Aktun Chen
Maya for Cave with an Underground River, Aktun Chen (Hwy. 307 Km. 107, tel. 984/806-4962, www.aktunchen.com, 9 A.M.–5 P.M. daily, summer until 7 P.M., last tour one hour before closing, US$26 adult, US$14 child under 10) is certainly that, and more. Admission adds up fast, especially for families, but the experience is definitely memorable. The cave system has a breathtaking array of stalactites and stalagmites, and a 12-meter-deep (40-foot) cenote filled with crystalline water at the end; lighting and a pathway make it accessible to all.
sea turtle hatchlings waiting to be released back into the sea, part of numerous conservation programs in the Riviera Maya
Leaving the cave, you can check out the park’s numerous animal enclosures, with spider monkeys, toucans, and more; there also is a kilometer (0.6 mile) of zip lines, plus a cenote for snorkeling. Tours are offered in English and Spanish and last about 90 minutes. Most hotels offer trips here that include transportation, or you can go independently—look for the turnoff just across from Aventuras Akumal, and continue three kilometers (1.9 miles) to the entrance. Mosquito repellent and a bottle of water are recommended. You’ll encounter the least crowds before 11 A.M. and on weekends.
SHOPPING
Mexicarte (tel. 984/875-9115, 9 A.M.–9 P.M. daily) is the small bright-pink shop just inside the arches on your right. The owner hand selects the best folk art from around the region and country. Prices are high, but so is the quality and artisanship.
Galería Lamanai (tel. 984/875-9055, www.galerialamani.com, 8 A.M.–9 P.M. daily) offers similar wares, both in quality and price. The shop is located on the beach near Snack Bar Lol Ha.
There is an open-air artesanía market behind Playa Ukana, facing the town basketball court. The items are standard Mexican handicrafts, like colorful ceramics from Puebla, textiles from Chiapas, and wood toys. Prices are a bit higher than other towns on the Riviera, but bargaining is welcome.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Scuba Diving
Some of the area’s first scuba divers waded into the waves right here at Akumal Bay, and the area has been special to the sport ever since. While not as spectacular as other areas along the Riviera Maya, Akumal’s diving is easy and fun, with a mellow current and few profiles that go below 20 meters (66 feet). The reef is predominantly boulder coral, which isn’t as picturesque as other types, but still it teems with tropical fish and plant life. Visibility is decent by Caribbean standards—great by everyone else’s—averaging 10–30 meters (33–99 feet).
Founded more than 30 years ago, Akumal Dive Shop (tel. 984/875-9032, www.akumaldiveshop.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) was the first dive shop in the Riviera Maya, long before anyone called it that. Still right on the beach, the shop offers fun dives and various certification courses in both open water and cave/ cavern diving. Divers can take one- or two-tank reef dives (US$50/80), cavern or cenote dives (US$85/140), or buy packages of 4 or 10 dives for US$140/290. Fun dives do not include equipment rental (US$18/day, US$70/ week). Open-water certification courses take 3–4 days and cost US$485, equipment and materials included.
Down the beach a short distance, Akumal Dive Center (tel. 984/875-9025, www.akumaldivecenter.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) has operated in Akumal almost as long and offers the same dives and courses at comparable prices.
On Half Moon Bay, Akumal Dive Adventures (next to La Buena Vida restaurant, tel. 984/875-9157, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/425-8625, www.akumaldiveadventures.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) offers somewhat lower prices than the other shops, as well as dive and accommodation packages starting at three nights lodging and four reef dives for US$270/360 per person double/single occupancy. Rooms are at the affiliated Vista del Mar hotel.
Aventuras Akumal has excellent diving and snorkeling as well, with a calm bay and less traffic than Akumal proper. Aquatech Dive Center (Villas DeRosa, tel. 984/875-9020, U.S. tel. 801/619-9050, www.cenotes.com) has many years of experience and offers a complete range of dives and courses, with special emphasis on cenote and cave diving. Reef dives run US$45/75 for one/two tanks, while cenote dives are US$75/140. Open-water certification is US$450 per person—check the website for details on cavern and cave diving instruction. Equipment is included in courses but not fun dives (US$35–40 per day for the full kit). Multidive packages, night dives, and fishing excursions are also available.
Snorkeling
Laguna Yal-Ku (8 A.M.–5:30 P.M. daily, US$9 adult, US$6 child age 4–12, free age 3 and under, US$15 snorkel gear, US$2 locker) is a favorite among many snorkelers for its large area, calm water, and unique mix of fresh- and saltwater ecosystems.
The northern end of Akumal Bay also has fine snorkeling, reachable right from the beach. It’s a great little nook of fairly shallow water where tropical fish dart about a labyrinth of rocks, boulder coral, and plant life. Fishing boats do not pass through here, another reason it’s good for snorkeling, but be alert to currents pulling you out of the safe area and into boat channels. Likewise, some snorkelers make their way toward the large buoy at the edge of the bay, not realizing it marks a channel that boats use to get through the reef. Be smart and steer clear. Half Moon Bay has good shore snorkeling as well—plus, no boat traffic. Just consider wearing water shoes, as the entry can be rocky or overgrown with water plants.
You can rent snorkel gear at any of Akumal’s dive shops for around US$9–12 a day or US$50–60 a week. Rentals at Yal-Ku cost US$15 and can only be used on-site. The dive shops also offer guided snorkel tours, which run 1–3 hours, depending on the number of sites you visit, and cost US$25–40 per person, including gear.
Sailing
Akumal Dive Shop (on the beach, tel. 984/875-9032, www.akumaldiveshop.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily) offers a popular Robinson Crusoe cruise: a five-hour excursion on a catamaran sailboat, with stops for fishing and snorkeling (US$85 including lunch and equipment). Or try the two-hour Sunset/Moonrise Cruise, which doesn’t include fishing and snorkeling, but offers beautiful evening views of the bay (US$40).
Sportfishing
Dive shops also offer fishing tours, varying somewhat in length and group size according to the type of boat that’s available. Expect to pay US$90–150 for a two-to-three-hour tour for 2–4 anglers. Trips typically include equipment, tackle, and soft drinks/water, and longer outings can be arranged. Fishing is excellent year-round, but the best months for trolling are April–June, when sailfish and marlin are most numerous and active.
To schedule a tour, contact Akumal Dive Shop (on the beach, tel. 984/875-9032, www.akumaldiveshop.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily), Akumal Dive Center (on the beach, tel. 984/875-9025, www.akumaldivecenter.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily), or Akumal Dive Adventures (next to La Buena Vida restaurant, tel. 984/875-9157, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/425-8625, www.akumaldiveadventures.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. daily).
Spas and Gyms
Yoga en Akumal (town arch, 2nd Fl., cell. tel. 984/745-3488, www.akumalyoga.com, 7–8:30 A.M. Tues. and Thurs., 8:30–10 A.M. Mon.–Wed., 9–11 A.M. Sat., 7:30–9 P.M. Mon. and Thurs.) offers a variety of classes for all experience levels: Hatha (basic, open, flow), Anusara, and Yin, to name a few. Sessions are led by one of four certified instructors; they cost US$15 per class, US$75 for an unlimited two-week pass, and US$125 for a month of unlimited classes. Workshops and private sessions also are offered. Look for the breezy studio inside the arch at the entrance to town.
AKgym (Plaza Ukana, 1st Fl., tel. 984/876-3363, 7:30 A.M.–7:30 P.M. Mon.–Fri., 7:30 A.M.–5 P.M. Sat.) has a small air-conditioned exercise space that’s crammed with free weights and cardio machines. Day passes cost US$8, weekly rates US$30, and monthly passes cost US$50.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Akumal draws a number of long-term visitors and has a large number of fully equipped condos and villas, in addition to ordinary hotels. There’s no hostel, but backpackers might be able snag a dorm room at CEA.
In Town
Centro Ecológico Akumal (CEA, next to Akumal Dive Shop, tel. 984/875-9095, www.ceakumal.org, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. and 2–6 P.M. Mon.–Fri.) has several large comfortable dorms—most even have air-conditioning—and a well-outfitted communal kitchen. CEA’s volunteers have priority for the rooms, and they are usually full, but if not, they’re available to walk-ins for US$20 a night (BYO linens). It’s a long shot, but it’s definitely worth asking.
Hotel Akumal Caribe (reception in the arches at the entrance to town, tel. 984/206-3500, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/351-1622, toll-free Can. tel. 800/343-1440, www.hotelakumalcaribe.com, US$89–134 s/d bungalow, US$99–164 s/d room, including breakfast) was the first lodging in Akumal, used by members of a local diving and conservation club. The bungalows are roomy and affordable—and therefore popular with families—though somewhat out-of-date (e.g. old-school air conditioners). Rooms in the hotel section are more modern, with whitewashed walls, minisplits, refrigerator, and private balcony. Most have ocean views; some have kitchenettes (US$5 extra), while corner rooms have two balconies and a kingsize bed (US$15 extra). The main complaint here is the beds, which range from firm to rock hard. The hotel has a well-kept swimming pool and palm-shaded beach area, including a guestonly section. A good restaurant, a pizzeria, and a full-service dive shop are also on-site.
On the eastern end of the beach in town, Las Casitas Akumal (tel. 984/875-9071, toll-free U.S./Can. tel. 800/525-8625, www.lascasitasakumal.com) has 18 airy condominiums with two bedrooms, two baths, living room, fully equipped kitchen, and private patio. Some have two floors and space for six people; all have ocean views and direct access to a semiprivate section of the beach. High-season rates range US$367–382 per night; rates drop significantly early May–mid-November. Reservations must be made for a minimum of seven nights and begin on a Saturday.
Half Moon Bay
One nice thing about staying in Half Moon Bay—in addition to the beautiful ocean views and great snorkeling—is that you’re within walking distance of the center as well as Laguna Yal-Ku.
Vista del Mar (tel. 984/875-9060, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/425-8625, www.akumalinfo.com, US$90–110 s/d with a/c, US$185–220 condos with a/c) has spacious one-, two-, and three-bedroom condominiums, plus standard hotel rooms, all overlooking a lovely stretch of beach. The 15 condos have long balconies or porches, fully equipped kitchens, separate living and dining rooms, and master bedrooms with king-size beds. Modern amenities include flat-screen TVs, mini air conditioners, in-room safes, Wi-Fi, and some whirlpool tubs. (And daily maid service, too.) Mexican decor like Talavera tiles, bright hand-woven bedspreads, and tapestries lend the units charm. The 16 oceanfront hotel rooms are smaller but are still comfortable. All accommodations share a well-tended beach with lounge chairs and palapa shades.
Hacienda de la Tortuga (tel. 984/875-9068, www.haciendatortuga.com, US$150 one-bdrm apts, US$200 two-bdrm apts) has just 16 rooms and cultivates a quiet relaxed atmosphere geared toward couples. Roomy one-bedroom and two-bedroom condos all have huge windows overlooking the Caribbean, plus a living room, fully equipped kitchen, king-size bed(s), and air-conditioning in the bedrooms. Each is uniquely decorated, many with fine Mexican artwork and homey touches like a well-stocked bookcase. There’s a small pool just steps from the beach, and a classy Mexican restaurant, La Lunita, that gets good reviews. The family-friendly La Mirage condos next door, which have comparable rates and amenities, also are managed here.
At the north end of Akumal, Que Onda (Caleta Yal-Ku, tel. 984/875-9101, www.queondaakumal.com, US$60–100 s/d, US$125–225 suite) has seven standard rooms, each with tile floors and artful decor, and two suites, including a split-level unit with views of the Caribbean. All face the hotel’s verdant garden, and there’s a small clean pool and popular Italian restaurant on-site. None of the units have air-conditioning; upstairs units enjoy decent sea breezes, but downstairs units can get stuffy. And although it’s close to Half Moon Bay and Laguna Yal-Ku (where guests get 50 percent off admission), Que Onda is a solid 30-to-40-minute walk from town—probably the biggest drawback. Bicycles (and snorkel gear) are available for rent, and plenty of guests come with rental cars.
Aventuras Akumal
Villas DeRosa (tel. 984/875-9020, U.S. tel. 801/619-9050, www.cenotes.com, US$70–120 s/d, US$110–250 one-bdrm condo, US$180–350 two-bdrm, US$200–400 three-bdrm) offers hotel rooms with garden and pool views, and spacious condominiums with ocean views and private balconies. All units have air-conditioning, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and stereos, and condos have fully equipped kitchens as well. The bedrooms can feel a bit dark, but you’re literally steps from a beautiful beach and the blue Caribbean water. The resort boasts a full-service dive shop, with a special emphasis on cenote diving; dive/accommodation packages are available.
Smaller and cozier than the DeRosa, 
Villa Las Brisas (tel. 984/875-9263, www.aventuras-akumal.com, US$45–85 s/d, US$55–90 studio, US$90–150 one-bedroom condo, US$115–230 two-bedroom condo) has just three units, two of which can be combined to make the two-bedroom condo. All are spacious, spotless, and meticulously furnished, down to a stocked spice rack in the kitchen. The condos have large terraces with hammocks and stunning views; the smaller units have balconies that overlook a tidy garden. With comfortable beds, modern Mexican-style furnishings, and space to stretch out, it’s easy to feel at home here; families welcome. Beach chairs and umbrellas are free, while snorkel gear is available for rent. There’s a simple minimart at the entrance (8 A.M.–4 P.M. Mon.–Sat.), but you’ll have to go to Akumal for additional shopping and services.
Rental Properties
The majority of rooms for rent in Akumal are in privately owned homes and condos, especially along Half Moon Bay. Most are managed and rented by one of various property management companies; browse the listings of several agencies to get the best selection. Some reliable agencies include Caribbean Fantasy (www.caribbfan.com, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/523-6618), Akumal Villas (www.akumalvillas.com, U.S. tel. 866/535-1324), Akumal Rentals (www.akumal-rentals.com, no phone), and Loco Gringo (www.locogringo.com, no phone).
FOOD
In Town
Lol-Ha (Hotel Akumal Caribe, tel. 984/875-9014, www.hotelakumalcaribe.com, 7:30–11 A.M. and 6:30–10 P.M. daily, closed Oct.–mid-Nov., US$12–35) is Akumal’s finest restaurant, with a beautiful wood and stucco dining room topped with a high palapa roof that opens onto a pleasant veranda. Expect excellent seafood and Mexican and American specialties, including prime USDA steaks, grilled ahi tuna, and flambé specials prepared table-side. During high season, enjoy flamenco performances on Wednesday, and a Latin strings and percussion trio on Thursday; additional events are posted at the restaurant, and a small per-person cover charge is usually added to the bill. Reservations are highly recommended.
Next door, Snack Bar Lol-Ha (7:30 A.M.–8 P.M. daily, US$8–14) serves the best hamburgers on the beach, and tasty tacos, too (the tacos de cochinita are particularly good). Three 32-inch TVs always have a sporting event on, whether Monday Night Football, March Madness, or the Kentucky Derby; hundreds of people turn out for the annual Super Bowl and Academy Awards parties (proceeds of which go to local community groups). Kids will love the adjacent game room with air hockey and foosball.
For a fresh, healthy meal, try Imelda Ecococina (no phone, 8 A.M.–9 P.M. daily, US$3–6), next to Centro Ecológico Akumal. Breakfast options include eggs, omelets, pancakes, and French toast. For lunch, the comida corrida comes with a choice of main plate and a side dish or two. On Monday and Friday the restaurant hosts a popular Maya buffet (US$20, 7 P.M.) followed by cumbia tunes and dancing.
In Plaza Ukana, 
Turtle Bay Café & Bakery (tel. 984/875-9138, 7 A.M.–3 P.M. and 6–9 P.M. Tues.–Sat., 7 A.M.–3 P.M. Sun.–Mon., US$5–18) offers scrumptious creations such as crispy Parmesan fish sandwiches, vegetable lentil burgers, and summer burritos. For breakfast, think French toast, eggs Benedict, or a fruit plate with yogurt and granola. Enjoy your meal surrounded by palm trees, either in the outdoor palapa-roofed dining room or on the porch of the main building.
For fresh seafood, check out La Cueva del Pescador (Plaza Ukana, tel. 984/875-9205, noon–9 P.M.daily, US$5–25). Sink your teeth into fish kabobs, shrimp prepared nine different ways (e.g., grilled, à la tequila, with curry salsa, and so on), and lobster—most caught the day you order it. The bar is especially popular on weekends.
For groceries, the best prices are across from the Akumal turnoff on Highway 307 in Super Express Mar Caribe (7 A.M.–11 P.M. daily); look for the store about 100 meters (328 feet) west of the highway. Otherwise, just outside the arch, Super Chomak and Supermercado El Pueblito (both 7:30 A.M.–9 P.M. daily) charge an arm and a leg for canned and dried food, soups and pastas, fresh and packaged meat, booze, and basics like sunscreen and film. All the markets also sell fresh fruit and veggies, but you may find a better selection at the farmers market held Wednesday and Saturday in Plaza Ukana.
Half Moon Bay
A fantastic flying serpent skeleton greets diners at La Buena Vida (Vista del Mar, tel. 984/875-9061, http://akumalinfo.com/la-buena-vida-restaurant-2, 11 A.M.–11 P.M. daily, US$6–27), where clients enjoy the varied menu—from hamburgers to shrimp ceviche—under palapa-shaded tables on the beach. If you’ve already had lunch, consider just stopping in for a drink at the swing-lined bar; happy hour typically runs 5–7 P.M.
La Lunita (Hacienda de la Tortuga, tel. 984/875-9070, www.lalunita-akumal.com, 8 A.M.–10:30 P.M. Mon.–Sat., US$8–25) is an intimate bistro serving gourmet Mexican and Maya specialties. Seafood is king here, though there are plenty of options for vegetarians and serious meat eaters. With only a handful of tables, some overlooking the Caribbean, La Lunita is a perfect place for a romantic dinner—just be sure to make reservations.
If you’re in the mood for Italian, try the open-air restaurant at the hotel Que Onda (tel. 984/875-9102, 7:30–11 A.M., 1–4 P.M., and 5:30–10 P.M. daily except Tues., US$7–18). The homemade linguine is divine and comes with a wide choice of sauces, from Gorgonzola to curry shrimp. The lasagna is also popular, though a bit pricey. For dessert, try the chocolate mousse.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Information
Akumal doesn’t have an official tourist office, but it’s a small town, and you can probably find what you’re looking for by asking the first person you see. If that fails, the folks at Centro Ecológico Akumal (CEA, next to Akumal Dive Shop, tel. 984/875-9095, www.ceakumal.org, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. and 2–6 P.M. Mon.–Fri.) are friendly and well informed, and most speak English.
Emergency Services
For an English-speaking physician, see general practitioner Dr. Néstor Mendoza Gutiérrez (cell. tel. 984/806-4616, 8 A.M.–4 P.M. Mon.–Sat., on call 24/7); his office is located behind Supermercado El Pueblito, facing Plaza Ukana. For serious medical matters, head to Playa del Carmen.
The police can be reached by calling 060 from any public phone.
Money
There is no bank in town, but there are ATMs inside Akumal’s small supermarkets, near the town arch: Super Chomak and Supermercado El Pueblito (both 7:30 A.M.–9 P.M. daily).
Media and Communications
The post office (9:30 A.M.–3 P.M. Tues. and Thurs.) is inside the Centro Ecológico Akumal, in the center of town.
At the time of research, the only Internet café was inside Supermercado El Pueblito (just outside the arches, 7:30 A.M.–9 P.M. daily), which charges US$5 per hour to connect.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
The turnoff to Akumal is between Kilometers 254 and 255 on the main highway. For Aventuras Akumal, the access road is just south of the main Akumal entrance; look for the sign to Hotel Villas DeRosa, as the community itself isn’t well signed.
Bus and Combi
Combis and second-class buses stop at the Akumal turnoff, but it’s a kilometer (0.6 mile) walk into town. Likewise, you can manage the center area by foot, but walking to and from Half Moon Bay can be long, hot, and dusty. Consider hiring a cab, which are often parked just outside the town arches.
Combis and second-class buses also stop at the Aventuras Akumal entrance; it’s only about 500 meters (0.3 mile) into the community from there.
PLAYA XCACEL
For all the breakneck construction along the Riviera Maya, much of the coastline remains virtually untouched, including some gorgeous stretches of white-sand beach. Playa Xcacel (Hwy. 307 Km. 247.5, 8 A.M.–6 P.M. daily, US$2) is one of those, a gently curving band of thick white sand, with only a small parking lot, restrooms, and changing area, and popular with local residents. Xcacel’s pristine state is thanks in part to the fact that sea turtles nest here, and development is restricted by federal law. Along the inland edge of the beach are scores of wood blades with dates on them, marking where and when sea turtles laid eggs; needless to say, do not move the markers or disturb the nests! A small freshwater cenote is located down a slippery path, about 350 meters (1,148 feet) south of the main entrance. The turnoff to Playa Xcacel is easy to miss, but it’s located 11 kilometers (7 miles) north of Tulum, just south of Chemuyil community.
A small inland cenote is another reason to love the wonderfully undeveloped Playa Xcacel.
Tankah Tres
Tucked innocuously between Akumal and Tulum, Tankah Tres sees only a fraction of the tourist traffic that its better-known neighbors do. But that’s just the way visitors to this little stretch of coastline prefer it, enjoying excellent snorkeling, diving, and pretty (though not spectacular) beaches, with a sense of isolation that’s hard to find in these parts. The area has three small bays, and the scattered hotels, villas, and private homes along their shores were once connected (together and to the highway) by a U-shaped access road. But new development cut the U right in half; the southern entrance is still marked Tankah Tres, while the northern entrance has a sign for Bahías de Punta Soliman. You have to return to the highway to get from one side to the other.
SIGHTS
Playa Tankah
The handful of hotels here all have pretty beachfronts along Tankah’s three sandy bays. If you aren’t staying at one of the hotels, Casa Cenote (1.5 kilometers/0.9 mile from the turnoff, tel. 998/874-5170, www.casacenote.com) allows nonguests to enjoy the hotel beach and lounge chairs if they order something at the restaurant.
Tankah Tres is a quiet getaway with fine snorkeling and just a handful of hotels and rental properties.
Cenote Manatí
Across from Casa Cenote hotel (1.5 kilometers /0.9 mile from the turnoff, tel. 998/874-5170, www.casacenote.com, sun-rise–sunset) —and frequently referred to by the same name—Cenote Manatí (free) is actually a series of interconnected cenotes and lagoons extending from the road well inland. (An underground channel drains into the ocean.) The crystal-clear water, winding channels, and tangle of rocks, trees, and freshwater plants along the edges and bottom all make for terrific snorkeling. Look for schools of tiny fish near the surface and some bigger ones farther down.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Five spacious rooms with murals of Maya temples make up the 
Tankah Inn (southern entrance, 1.1 kilometers/0.6 mile from the turnoff, cell. tel. 984/100-0703, U.S. tel. 918/582-3743, www.tankah.com, US$91–131 s/d with a/c). Right on the beach, each room has tile floors, a private terrace, and ocean views; all feature minifridges, drinking water, and remote-controlled air-conditioning. A breezy common room has sweeping views of the Caribbean—comfy chairs and tables, a stereo, lots of board games, and an honor bar make this a popular place to hang out, though the beach, with its lounge chairs and hammocks, is a tempting alternative. À la carte breakfast is included, and guests enjoy free use of kayaks, snorkel gear, and Wi-Fi. Massage and Spanish classes also available on-site.
Casa Cenote (southern entrance, 1.5 kilometers /0.9 mile from the turnoff, tel. 998/874-5170, www.casacenote.com, US$125–225 s/d with a/c) was for many years the only life on this stretch of beach; more hotels have popped up, but this remains an area favorite. Large beachfront rooms have air-conditioning, one or two large beds, Wi-Fi, and fine ocean views. Decor is tasteful but low-key, with a large stucco relief of a Maya god in each room. The hotel has a lovely beachfront pool, and Cenote Manatí is just across the street; guests can use the hotel’s kayaks and snorkeling gear as well. The hotel does its part for the earth by collecting rainwater and using natural wastewater processing. Breakfast is included, and the breezy restaurant is popular among guests and nonguests alike. A large five-bedroom house is available for rent nearby.
Blue Sky Hotel (southern entrance, 1.7 kilometers/1 mile from the turnoff, U.S. tel. 306/972-4283, www.blueskymexico.com, US$130–325 with a/c) offers six breezy units occupying two matching towers, with views of the Caribbean that improve with each level. All units are modern, with cheerful Mexican decor and lots of recessed lighting. A nice pool faces the beach, where there are plenty of toys—kayaks, boogie boards, and snorkel gear—for guests to use. The shoreline and shallows can be quite rocky, which accounts for the excellent snorkeling, but can be off-putting to some; in any case, bring water shoes. The hotel restaurant is one of the best around, especially for pizza.
Slice of Paradise (southern entrance, 2 kilometers /1.5 miles from the turnoff, www.sliceofparadise.com, US$1,700–3,200/week house, US$125–140 casita, US$80–115 cabanas) lives up to its name with a spacious house, smaller “casita,” and two simple cabanas, for rent by the day or week. The house has a full-size kitchen, separate sitting and dining areas, and dramatic bay windows facing the beach. The casita also has kitchen and bath; both the house and casita have window-unit air conditioners. The two palapa-roofed cabanas are fan cooled, one with en suite bathroom, the other not. Decor is simple and tasteful throughout, and there’s Wi-Fi and daily maid service.
FOOD
The restaurant at Casa Cenote (southern entrance, 2 kilometers/1.25 miles from the turnoff, tel. 998/874-5170, www.casacenote.com, 8 A.M.–9 P.M. daily, US$7–18) has a breezy patio dining area just steps from the sea’s edge. You can order beach food such as quesadillas or a guacamole plate, or something heftier—the seafood is always tasty and fresh. Every Sunday at noon the hotel hosts an awesome Texas-style barbecue (US$15) that is popular with expats up and down the Riviera Maya.
The 
Blue Sky (Blue Sky Hotel, southern entrance, 1.7 kilometers/1 mile from the turnoff, 7:30 A.M.–10:30 P.M. Tues.–Sun., 3–10:30 P.M. Mon., US$5–24) offers delicious Italian and Mexican specialties, prepared to order, with simple but beautiful presentation. The pizza is famously good, handmade with I fresh ingredients and baked in a custom brick oven. But appetizers like ceviche and mains like grilled calamari with vegetables are also worth sampling—you’ll just have to come back more than once! With only a handful of tables, it’s also ideal for an intimate dinner.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
There are no formal services here, because it’s not really a formal town. Head to Tulum for ATMs, medical services, Internet, groceries, and more.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
The turnoff to the southern portion of Tankah Tres is between Kilometers 237 and 238 on the main highway, and marked with a large road sign. Driving south from Cancún, you’ll have to overshoot the entrance a short distance until a break in the median (at Dreams Resort) allows you to make a U-turn and return to the turnoff; this access road makes a beeline for the shore, then turns abruptly to the left, hugging the beach and passing the listed hotels and sights. The access road to the northern section is a bit farther and is marked with a large sign for Lalo’s Restaurant, which is actually on the west side of the highway. If you don’t have a car, you can ask a combi to drop you at either turnoff, but it will not enter Tankah Tres itself.
CENOTES: THEN AND NOW
One of the Yucatán Peninsula’s most intriguing features is its cenotes, freshwater sinkholes, sometimes hundreds of meters deep and filled with crystalline freshwater, fed by underground rivers. Cenotes owe their formation to the massive meteorite that hit the Yucatán Peninsula 65 million years ago. The impact shattered the peninsula’s thick limestone cap like a stone hitting a car windshield, and in the millions of years that followed, rainwater seeped into the cracks, carving huge underground caverns and hundreds of kilometers of channels out of the highly soluble limestone. Cenotes are former caverns whose roofs collapsed –cave-ins are extremely rare today, however–and together the channels form the world’s longest underground river system.
Cenotes were sacred to Maya, who relied on them for water and viewed them as apertures to the underworld. (The name is derived from the Yucatec Maya word dz’onot.) Sacrificial victims were sometimes thrown into their eerie depths, along with finely worked stone and clay items, and archaeologists have learned a great deal about early Maya rituals by dredging cenotes near archaeological sites, most notably Chichén Itzá. Indeed, the name Chichén Itzá means Well of the Itzá, undoubtedly a reference to the ancient city’s dramatic cenote.
Today the peninsula’s cenotes attract worshippers of a different sort: snorkelers and scuba divers. The unbelievably clear water–100-meter (328-foot) visibility in places–is complemented by what other inland and underground diving environments (like lakes and flooded mines) lack: stunning stalactites and stalagmites. During early ice ages, water drained from the cenotes, giving time for the slow-growing features to form. When the climate warmed, the cenotes filled with water once again, their depths now forested with dramatic stone spires, pillars, and columns.
Divers with open-water certification can dive in the cenotes. Though “full-cave” diving requires advanced training, most cenote tours are actually “cavern” dives, meaning you are always within 40 meters (130 feet) of an air pocket. It’s a good idea to take some open-water dives before your first cenote tour–buoyancy control is especially important in cenotes, and you’ll be contending with different weights and finning technique.
PLAYA DEL CARMEN BUS SCHEDULES
Terminal Turística (5 Av. and Av. Juárez, tel. 984/873-0109, ext. 2501, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/702-8000) is located near the ferry dock and has frequent service north to Cancún and south to Tulum, and most locations in between. Long-distance buses use the Terminal Alterna.
Most Tulum-bound buses stop at the turnoffs for destinations along the way, including Paamul (US$3.50, 15 minutes), Puerto Aventuras (US$3.50, 20 minutes), Xpu-Há (US$4, 25 minutes), Akumal (US$4.50, 30 minutes), Xel-Há (US$5, 30 minutes), and Hidden Worlds and Dos Ojos (both US$5, 40 minutes).
Most Chetumal-bound buses stop at Carrillo Puerto (US$10.50–10, 2–2.5 hours) and Bacalar (US$17.25, 4.5 hours).
Most Cancún-bound buses stop at Puerto Morelos (US$1.75, 35 minutes), but not the airport or Cancún’s Zona Hotelera.
Terminal Alterna (Calle 20 btwn Calles 12 and 12 Bis, tel. 984/803-0944, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/702-8000) departures include:
CEDAM AND THE RIVIERA MAYA
In 1948, a small group of Mexican divers–active frogmen during World War II–created a nonprofit organization called Club de Ex-ploración y Deporte Acuáticos de México (Exploration and Aquatic Sports Club of Mexico, or CEDAM). Their mission was to promote ocean conservation and educate others about its treasures and resources.
In 1958, the group set about salvaging the Mantanceros, a Spanish galleon that foundered offshore in 1741. It got permission to set up camp in present-day Akumal, then just a deserted beach owned by a man named Argimiro Arguelles. Arguelles leased CEDAM an old work boat, the SS Cozumel, for their project and even offered his services as captain.
It was this relationship that sealed Akumal’s –and arguably, the Riviera Maya’s–destiny. During a relaxed evening around the campfire, Arguelles sold Pablo Bush Romero, one of CEDAM’s founders, the bay of Akumal and thousands of acres of coconut palms north and south of it. For the next 12 years, CEDAM continued its work in the rustic and beautiful place–replacing their tents with sturdy palapa huts, and using the creaky SS Cozumel to carry divers to work sites up and down the coast.
It wasn’t long before the idea of promoting tourism on Mexico’s forgotten Caribbean coast arose. In 1968, the group–which had changed the words behind its initials to Conservation, Ecology, Diving, Archaeology, and Museums–donated 5,000 acres of land to the government, as well as the Cove of Xel-Há, to create a national park. The aim was to open the isolated area to tourists and, in so doing, create jobs for local residents. CEDAM also provided housing, food, electricity, running water, a school for the children, and a first-aid station with a trained nurse.
Still based in Akumal, CEDAM has grown into an important scientific and conservation organization. The group plays an active part in the archaeological exploration of cenotes, among other things, and hosts regular symposiums and seminars. A small but worthwhile museum in Puerto Aventuras–Museo Sub-Acuático CEDAM (Bldg. F, no phone, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. and 2:30–5:30 P.M. Mon.–Sat., donation requested)–displays some of the incredible items that the group has recovered in the region’s waters.