Basics
BLACKCURRANT MERINGUES
100 g (3½ oz) eggwhites
100 g (3½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
100 g (3½ oz) icing (confectioners’) sugar
30 g (1 oz) freeze-dried blackcurrant powder
Put the eggwhite and caster sugar into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip until stiff peaks form. Fold through the icing sugar and blackcurrant powder until combined.
Fit a piping bag with a 9 mm (3/8 inch) nozzle and fill with the meringue. Line a dehydrator shelf or baking tray with baking paper then pipe little kiss-shaped meringues. Bake in the dehydrator or in a 65°C (150°F) oven until dry and crunchy. Store in an airtight container at room temperature until needed.
BUBBLEGUM PASTE
200 g (7 oz) water
50 g (1¾ oz) bubblegum
Put the ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then transfer the mixture to a food processor and process to a paste. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.
BURNT VANILLA POWDER
50 g (1¾ oz) vanilla beans
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Lay the vanilla beans on a baking tray and bake for 40–60 minutes until the beans swell up and dry out, crisp and toasty. Allow to cool, then put the toasted beans in a food processor or spice grinder and process to a powder.
CARAMEL LIQUID
140 g (5 oz) sugar
50 g (1¾ oz) water
60 g (2¼ oz) hot water
Heat the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat to a dark amber colour. Deglaze the pan with the hot water, being very careful as the caramel will spit. Allow to cool.
CARAMEL MAISON
220 g (7¾ oz) pure cream (35% fat)
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
120 g (4¼ oz) water
300 g (10½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
60 g (2¼ oz) liquid glucose
Put the cream, vanilla seeds and vanilla bean in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and discard the vanilla bean.
Meanwhile, put the water, sugar and glucose in a heavy-based saucepan over medium–low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until dissolved. Brush down the side of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to avoid any crystallisation. Increase the heat to medium and cook the sugar mixture until it turns a dark amber colour.
Carefully stir the hot cream mixture into the caramel to deglaze: be careful, it will spit and release a lot of heat. Stir until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator.
CARAMELISED WHITE CHOCOLATE
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) white couverture chocolate
seeds scraped from 2 vanilla beans
Put the chocolate and vanilla bean seeds in a cryovac bag, remove the air and seal. Immerse the bag in a saucepan of simmering water for 2–3 hours until the chocolate is a golden caramel colour. Alternatively, preheat the oven to 160°C (315°F). Put the chocolate and vanilla bean seeds on a tray and bake until the chocolate starts to caramelise. Stir regularly and continue baking until the chocolate is a golden caramel colour. Allow to cool, then process in a food processor and pass through a sieve.
CHEESE MIX FOR QUICHES
75 g (2¾ oz) mozzarella, grated
75 g (2¾ oz) cheddar, grated
75 g (2¾ oz) gruyere, grated
75 g (2¾ oz) manchego, grated
Combine all of the grated cheeses in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or store in an airtight container and refrigerate until required.
CHOCOLATE GLAZE, DARK AND MILK
20 g (¾ oz) gold-strength gelatine leaves
120 g (4¼ oz) cold water
75 g (2¾ oz) water, extra
150 g (5½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
150 g (5½ oz) liquid glucose
100 g (3½ oz) condensed milk
150 g (5½ oz) milk (or dark) couverture chocolate, chopped or buttons
Cut the gelatine leaves into small squares, put them in a bowl with the cold water and set aside to soak.
Put the extra water, sugar and glucose in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Heat the syrup until it reaches 105°C (221°F). Stir in the gelatine and any remaining soaking liquid, as well as the condensed milk.
Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Pour over the hot condensed milk mixture and stir until smooth. Allow to cool, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set.
To use, reheat to 35°C (95°F) in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water or in a microwave.
This helps to balance out the pectin and give a better set. Put the water in a bowl, add the citric acid and stir until it has dissolved. Store in an airtight container at room temperature until ready to use.
CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE
250 g (9 oz) milk
seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean
60 g (2¼ oz) egg yolk
60 g (2¼ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
25 g (1 oz) cornflour (cornstarch)
100 g (3½ oz) unsalted butter, chopped and softened slightly
Heat the milk and vanilla seeds in a medium saucepan over medium–low heat until almost boiling. Remove from the heat. Whisk the egg yolks, sugar and cornflour in a bowl until thick and pale. Gradually whisk in the hot milk. Return the mixture to the pan and whisk constantly over medium heat until the custard comes to the boil. Boil for 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, ensuring it touches the surface to prevent a skin forming.
Cool the crème pâtissière to 50°C (120°F), then use a balloon whisk to whisk in the butter until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap as before and refrigerate to cool completely. Before using, use a balloon whisk to whisk until smooth.
FRUIT PURÉE
These can be bought from speciality food stores and speciality pastry suppliers, often in Tetrapaks or frozen. Buying them is actually more economical and convenient than making your own; however, if you prefer to make your own purée it is a simple process.
For fruits such as apricot, blackcurrant, blueberry, lychee, raspberry and strawberry, first peel the fruit if necessary, then remove any pits, stones or stalks. Process the fruit in a food processor to a purée and then press through a fine sieve (discarding any pulp). You will lose some of the weight of the fruit as you are sieving it, so keep that in mind when purchasing the fruit. Store in the refrigerator or freezer.
ITALIAN MERINGUE
250 g (9 oz) eggwhites
150 g (5½ oz) water
450 g (1 lb) caster (superfine) sugar
Put the eggwhites in an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Put the water and sugar in a heavy-based saucepan over medium–low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved.
Brush down the side of the pan with a clean pastry brush dipped in water to avoid any crystallisation. Increase the heat to medium and bring the sugar syrup to 121°C (249°F).
With the motor running on medium speed, pour the sugar syrup down the side of the mixer bowl in a slow steady stream. Continue to mix until the temperature drops to 50°C (120°F), stopping the mixer whenever you check the temperature. Use as directed.
Make meringue as needed and use immediately, as it doesn’t store well.
MIRROR GLAZE
100 g (3½ oz) water
180 g (6¼ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
50 g (1¾ oz) liquid glucose
150 g (5½ oz) pure cream (35% fat)
100 g (3½ oz) unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted
12.5 g (7/16 oz) gold-strength gelatine leaves
62 g (2¼ oz) cold water
182 g (6¼ oz) clear neutral glaze, heated to 35°C (95°F)
Put the water, sugar, glucose, cream and cocoa in a saucepan over medium heat and mix with a heatproof spatula (not a whisk), stirring the whole time to ensure the mixture doesn’t catch on the base or side of the pan. Heat to 103°C (217°F), then remove from the heat and cool to 50°C (122°F).
Cut the gelatine leaves into small squares, put them in a bowl with the cold water and set aside to soak.
When the chocolate mixture reaches 50°C (122°F), mix in the gelatine and any soaking liquid. Add the clear neutral glaze and blitz with a stick mixer until combined. Transfer to a heatproof bowl and place in the refrigerator until completely set. To use, reheat to 35°C (95°F) in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water or in a microwave.
NEUTRAL GLAZE
250 g (9 oz) water
10 g (¼ oz) pectin 325 NH 95
265 g (93/8 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
20 g (¾ oz) liquid glucose
Put the water in a saucepan and bring to 60°C (140°F). Mix the pectin with 65 g (2¼ oz) of the sugar, add to the water and stir to combine. Bring to the boil and add the remaining sugar. Return to the boil and add the glucose. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. To use, reheat to 35°C (95°F) in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water or in the microwave.
NUT PASTES
250 g (9 oz) nuts
30 g (1 oz) vegetable oil (optional)
Use the same method for blanched almonds, hazelnuts and pistachios. If using hazelnuts, remove the skins from the toasted nuts by rubbing them with a tea towel (dish towel) while they are still warm.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Line a baking tray with baking paper. Spread the nuts over the lined tray and roast for 10–12 minutes or until lightly golden. Cool slightly, then transfer to a food processor and process to a fine paste. Add vegetable oil, with the motor running, as needed to make a smooth paste.
PANCAKES
30 g (1 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour
10 g (3/8 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
0.25 g (1/64 oz) baking powder
38 g (13/8 oz) milk
1 egg, separated, at room temperature
Put the dry ingredients in a medium bowl. Lightly whisk the milk and egg yolk in a jug, then slowly pour into the dry ingredients, whisking to combine until well incorporated and smooth. Put the eggwhite in an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the eggwhite into the pancake batter.
Lightly grease a small non-stick frying pan with butter or oil and heat over medium heat. Pour in the pancake batter and cook until bubbles begin to form on the surface, then turn and cook for a further 1–2 minutes. Set aside to cool.
PANDAN KAFFIR LIME ICE CREAM
415 g (14¾ oz) milk
135 g (4¾ oz) pure cream (35% fat)
4 fresh pandan leaves
1 kaffir lime leaf
72 g (2½ oz) skim milk powder
32 g (11/8 oz) dextrose
16 g (9/16 oz) liquid glucose
120 g (4¼ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
7 g (¼ oz) clear pandan extract
5 g (3/16 oz) ice-cream stabiliser
Put the milk, cream, pandan leaves and kaffir lime leaf in a medium saucepan over medium heat and heat to 90°C (195°F). Remove from the heat, cover with plastic wrap and leave to infuse for two hours. Remove the plastic wrap and add the remaining ingredients. Using a hand blender, blend until dissolved.
Return the saucepan to the stove over medium heat and heat to 85°C (185°F), stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and strain the mixture into a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, ensuring the plastic is touching the surface, and stand in the refrigerator overnight.
The next day, freeze the mixture in an ice-cream machine, according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then store in an airtight container in the freezer.
PRALINE
250 g (9 oz) nuts: blanched almonds, hazelnuts or pistachios
250 g (9 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Line a baking tray with baking paper. Spread the nuts over the prepared tray and roast for 10–12 minutes until lightly golden. If making hazelnut praline, remove the skins while still warm by rubbing the nuts in a tea towel (dish towel).
Caramelise the sugar in a saucepan over medium–low heat, shaking the pan occasionally and rolling the sugar around the pan as it melts. Cook until a dark amber colour, then quickly add the nuts and stir with a heatproof spatula to coat. Spread onto the lined tray. Allow to cool, then finely chop in a food processor and store in an airtight container.
QUICHE SAUCE
10 eggs
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) pure cream (35% fat)
375 g (13 oz) milk
pinch of salt
pinch of pepper
2 g (1/16 oz) nutmeg, grated
Crack the eggs into a bowl and gently whisk together. Add all of the remaining ingredients and combine. Cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator until needed.
SIMPLE SUGAR SYRUP
250 g (9 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
250 g (9 oz) water
Put the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and cool completely. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
VANILLA CRUMBLE
280 g (10 oz) unsalted butter
140 g (5 oz) brown sugar
140 g (5 oz) icing (confectioners’) sugar
170 g (6 oz) almond meal
340 g (12 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour
Preheat the oven to 160°C (315°F). Line a baking tray with baking paper and set aside.
Put all of the ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment and knead to combine. Push the dough through a wire rack to make small pieces and spread them out well on the prepared baking tray. Bake until golden, remove from the oven and allow to cool on the tray.
TEMPERED CHOCOLATE
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) couverture chocolate (dark, milk or white), chopped or buttons
Tempering is the term used to describe the technique of heating and cooling chocolate to specific temperatures to ensure it sets hard, snaps cleanly when broken and has a professional glossy shine. It also gives the chocolate a higher melting point, which is important when making chocolates and chocolate decorations.
Tempered chocolate is used whenever chocolate will be visible in the finished product. If the chocolate is going to be melted and then incorporated into a mixture, there’s no need to temper it.
You must use couverture chocolate for tempering, and follow either the seeding or tabling method detailed below.
SEEDING METHOD
Melt three-quarters of the chocolate in a clean, dry heatproof bowl over a saucepan of just-simmering water. The water should not touch the base of the bowl. As the chocolate starts to melt, stir gently with a spatula so that the chocolate melts evenly and monitor the temperature with a digital thermometer.
When the chocolate reaches 45–48°C (113–118°F) for dark chocolate or 40–45°C (104–113°F) for milk or white chocolate, remove the bowl from the pan. This is the temperature where the cocoa butter crystals in the chocolate will have melted. Immediately add the remaining chocolate to the bowl and stir until the temperature drops to 27°C (80°F) and all the pieces of chocolate have melted.
Return the bowl to the saucepan of just-simmering water and reheat the chocolate to its ideal working temperature. This is 31–32°C (88–90°F) for dark chocolate and 29–30°C (84–86°F) for milk chocolate and white chocolate. Stir gently and use the chocolate as soon as it reaches the correct temperature.
To test if the chocolate has been correctly tempered, dip the end of a clean palette knife in it. The chocolate should harden, with no streaks, in approximately 3 minutes at a room temperature of around 20°C (68°F).
If the temperature drops while you are working with the tempered chocolate, use a heat gun or a hair dryer to gently reheat it to the ideal working temperature.
TABLING METHOD
This method requires the use of a marble benchtop.
Melt all of the chocolate in a clean, dry heatproof bowl over a saucepan of just-simmering water. The water should not touch the base of the bowl. As the chocolate starts to melt, stir gently with a spatula so that the chocolate melts evenly and monitor the temperature with a digital thermometer.
When the chocolate reaches 45–48°C (113–118°F) for dark chocolate or 40–45°C (104–113°F) for milk or white chocolate, remove the bowl from the pan. This is the temperature where the cocoa butter crystals in the chocolate will have melted.
Pour two-thirds of the chocolate onto the marble and spread out with a large spatula or chocolate scraper. Use the spatula or scraper to push the chocolate into the centre, then spread it out again. Continue until the chocolate thickens slightly.
Scrape the thickened chocolate back into the bowl with the remaining warm chocolate and stir until it reaches 27°C (80°F). Gently heat the chocolate to its ideal working temperature, as listed above.