While typically associated with Brittany, the renowned land of lobsters—and the best lobsters, if you ask me—there have been many theories about the provenance of this dish. The likeliest, I think, is chef Pierre Fraysse, who lived and worked in the United States, and who cooked this dish back in his Parisian restaurant for a table of American patrons. While the origin of this dish is likely not Breton, the people of Brittany have adopted it and made it their own. So much so that they don’t call it American, but Armoricaine—from “Armor,” the Celtic name for Brittany.
Lobsters are flambéed in Cognac sauce which may seem a bit sumptuous, but I promise you shouldn’t be afraid of this recipe. If you get fresh lobsters, take them apart using the steps in the recipe; trust me, it’s much easier than what you might imagine. Cook them in their shell for extra flavor, and you’ll be set up for success.
SERVES 2 TO 4
5 tomatoes
2 large lobsters (1½–2 lb [680–910 g] each), uncooked (see note)
5 tbsp (75 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided
3 shallots, peeled and diced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and diced
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
⅓ cup (80 ml) Cognac or other brandy (see tip)
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs of thyme
1 tsp cayenne pepper
3⅓ cups (788 ml) dry white wine
2 cups (475 ml) fish stock
2 tbsp (17 g) all-purpose flour
½ can tomato paste (2.75 oz [78 g])
5–6 stems of chives, chopped
Cooked rice, for serving
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the tomatoes whole for 40 seconds. Transfer them immediately to a large bowl filled with cold water; keep the hot water in the large pot to re-use it later. When cool enough to handle, peel them by pulling the skin off with your fingers. Dice them roughly. Set aside.
If your lobsters are still alive, place the tip of a knife on the “cross” at the base of the head and insert quickly and forcefully to kill.
Bring the large pot of water back to a boil, and boil the whole lobsters, covered, for about 6 minutes. Drain and transfer them to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, separate the front claws. Separate the small legs from the tail and discard, or keep them to make a stock. Separate the head/body from the tail. The roe (red eggs), if any, will be pulled out at the same time: keep them in a small bowl. Cut the head/body in half and discard the gravel pouches (black sand). Keep the tails whole.
Melt 2 tablespoons (30 g) of butter in a large saucepan or skillet with high edges over medium heat. Sauté the lobster pieces, shallots, garlic and carrot for 5 minutes. To flambé, using caution, pour the Cognac into the pan and turn the heat to medium-high, until the liquid reaches a light boil, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the burner and set it on your counter or a heat-proof surface. Immediately, using a long match or barbecue lighter and approaching from the edge of the pan (not the middle), hold a flame within 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the liquid, until it lights on fire. Be sure to keep your face and hair away from the pan as it ignites. Quickly return the pan onto the burner, over medium-high heat, and shake it until the flames die out, which means no alcohol remains (about 10 to 15 seconds).
Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme, cayenne pepper, wine and fish stock; it should cover the lobster. Bring to a slow simmer, and cook with the lid on for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine the rest of the butter, flour, the one-half can of tomato paste and lobster roe to make a paste.
Transfer the lobster pieces to a plate, and cover with foil to keep warm. Bring the sauce to a high simmer over medium heat with the lid off. Reduce by half, about 20 minutes. Whisk in the roe paste, and simmer for 5 more minutes. Blend the sauce with a hand mixer or in a blender.
For serving, place the lobster pieces back into the sauce. Sprinkle with chives. Enjoy with rice.
NOTE: This recipe works best with 1½- to 2-pound (680-g to 1-kg) lobsters, known as “halves,” for a main course. Use “deuces,” a bit bigger, for special occasions.
FRENCH PANTRY TIP: Arguably the most notorious French brandy, Cognac is made by double distilling white wines solely produced in the town of Cognac, in Charente-Maritime, and the surrounding regions. Cognac is beloved for its sweet fruity notes and unctuous texture, and it is often more approachable than Armagnac. It is widely available in North America, and you can enjoy it as a “digestif” after a big meal or to brighten up sauces.
