When I was living in Lyon, I remember eyeing these little fried pastries in bakery windows around the city, and I loved how each baker had a twist on them: crunchy or soft, flat or knotted, flavored with citrus or different spices.
They’re said to be an import from the city of Rome, where they were prepared for carnivals. They have become a specialty in Lyon, Saint-Étienne and the entire Savoy region. They are traditionally enjoyed for Mardi-Gras, in February, and even year-round—slightly disrespecting the tradition of Lent.
They are fun to make and can be a great baking project with kids, who will devour them afterwards. They are pillowy inside but have a nice crunch too—the perfect mix! I like to flavor them with vanilla and lemon zest, but you can try them with bergamot or orange zest, ginger, cardamom or even saffron.
SERVES 8 / MAKES 16 TO 18 BUGNES
2⅓ cups (290 g) all-purpose flour
3 tbsp (38 g) sugar
1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder
½ tsp salt
⅓ cup plus 1 tbsp (100 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 lemon, zested
Vegetable oil, for frying
Powdered sugar, for topping
In a large mixing bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Cut the butter into small cubes and mix it into the dry ingredients with your fingers. Add in the eggs, one by one, mixing well between each addition. The dough will become easier to work with and smoother after the addition of each egg. Add in the vanilla extract and lemon zest, and shape the dough into a ball. Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel, and refrigerate for 3 hours.
Divide the dough into four equal parts. On a floured work surface, roll the first piece of dough into a 
-inch (4-mm)-thick rectangle. Using a pastry wheel or a sharp knife, cut the rectangle into 2-inch (5-cm) rhombus/diamond shapes. With a sharp knife, make a 1-inch (2.5-cm) slit lengthwise in the middle of each diamond, grab a corner, pass it through the slit and pull lightly to create a twist. Repeat with the other three pieces of dough. Lay the bugnes under a kitchen cloth as you go. Line a large plate with paper towels.
Heat vegetable oil in a heavy pan over medium heat and fry the bugnes in batches of about 5—not more, or they won’t cook properly—for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side until puffed and golden.
Transfer the bugnes to a paper towel–lined plate, and continue to fry the remainder in batches.
Serve immediately, topped with powdered sugar.