DEIRA
The term Deira is used to describe the bustling commercial area north of the creek. Deira is the source of Dubai’s trading roots and it is around the creek that you really get a sense of this. There is a telling contrast between the sight of the old wooden dhows moored at the wharfside and the glass façades of the sleek skyscrapers that surround them. Much of the dhow cargo is destined for the souks and shopping districts of buzzy Deira. As a result, the narrow streets here boast some of Dubai’s most atmospheric souks, including the Gold Souk, Spice Souk and Deira Covered Souk. A major preservation effort by Dubai Municipality means that this area offers some architectural gems like the Al-Ahmadiya School and the Heritage House.
1. Heritage House
Al Khor St • 04 226 0286 • Open 8am–7:30pm Sat–Thu, 2:30–7:30pm Fri
This beautifully restored airy courtyard house dates back to the 1890s. Unusually, this 10-room building does not have a windtower, but the upper floor is designed with open doors and windows to draw in the creek breezes. Now a museum giving an insight into Emirati history (with dioramas and touch screens), you can explore the different rooms, all with 19th-century furnishings.
2. Al-Ahmadiya School
Al Khor St • 04 226 0286 • Open 8am–7:30pm Sat–Thu, 2:30–7:30pm Fri
Dubai’s first school, opened in 1912, was founded by a philanthropist pearl merchant. Mathematics, the Holy Koran and Arabic calligraphy were taught, and the pupils (all male) sat on palm mats. Many such schools were located in Emirati coastal cities with the support of leading merchants and sheikhs, who subsidised the education. This school closed in 1963. Now a museum, it offers a great educational insight into the past and is worth visiting just for its sheer architectural grace.
3. Food Souk
The sights and smells of a traditional food market provide an enthralling insight into the shopping and eating habits of the locals. On the north side of Deira, this large warehouse-like complex (see Dubai Food Souk) is the old city’s major source of fresh food. The colourful fruit and vegetable selection has dozens of stalls piled high with produce, as well as a section specializing in dates from the local area. The gory meat section is for dedicated carnivores only, but the salty-smelling fish section is well worth exploring, with ocean-fresh prawns, hammour and sharks laid out on display.
4. Emirates National Bank of Dubai
Baniyas Rd
Another architectural achievement is the building housing the Emirates National Bank of Dubai – one of the city’s first iconic buildings. Built in the mid-1990s by Carlos Ott, architect of the Opéra de la Bastille in Paris, it is inspired by the dhow. Its curved curtain glass wall symbolizes the billowing sail. Its base is clad in green glass, representing water, and its roof is cast in aluminium (denoting the hull of the boat). It is most striking at sunset, when the mirror reflects its gold and silver lights.
Emirates National Bank of Dubai’s stunning façade
5. Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club
Garhoud • 04 295 6000
This soaring white building, inspired by the sails of a dhow and sitting amidst rolling greens, is a city landmark, visible from both Maktoum and Garhoud bridges. Opened in January 1993, the world-class golf course here is the centrepiece of a sprawling leisure complex that also incorporates a 115-berth marina. The separate yacht club incorporates the Aquarium, an excellent seafood restaurant, as well as one of Dubai’s most popular alfresco eateries, the Boardwalk, which sits on stilts and offers a spectacular view of the creek, especially at night when the illuminated dhows pass by.
The beautifully manicured greens of the Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club
6. Spice Souk
Moody and atmospheric, the Spice Souk is a sensory trip into the past, where you can wander through a maze of narrow alleyways of shops piled high with aromatic spices. Take an abra. (water taxi) to the souk, where you’ll find sacks of cinnamon sticks, cumin, coriander seed and oud. Some great souvenir buys include frankincense, henna kits (for hand and body decoration), saffron and fragrant rose water.
Exotic spices at the Spice Souk
7. Perfume Souk
Immediately east of the Gold Souk, Sikkat al Khail Rd is home to an array of shops popularly known as the Perfume Souk – although there isn’t any actual souk building. Dozens of small shops line the street, selling a mix of international brands and local perfumes. The best are made using the aromatic oud (derived from aloe wood) and come in ornate cut-glass bottles. Most shops also allow you to create your own scents from their selection of perfume oils.
8. Gold Souk
You are unlikely to have ever seen so much gleaming gold as in Dubai’s historic Gold Souk. The souk is still dominated by Indian and Iranian craftsmen and traders, as it has been for close on a century. It has been restored with a traditional Arabic arcade and an arching wooden roof. You’ll find jewellery in both Arabic and western styles.
Gold Souk goods
9. Deira Covered Souk
This is where you get a real taste of the melting pot of cultures that is Dubai. The souk is frequented by both Emiratis and expats, and sells everything from bright Indian clothing to colourful kitchenware. There are even household appliances and pirated CDs. It is a fascinating area to wander around.
Colourful textiles, Deira Covered Souk
10. Dhow Wharfage
Baniyas Rd
A walk along the wharfside beside Baniyas Road allows you to get up close to the painted wooden dhows, the traditional Arabian sailing vessels moored here. These ships still trade around the Gulf. Their cargo these days is tyres, refrigerators, air conditioners, electronics – just about any modern item. Moored five or six abreast, these dhows have sailed to trade with Dubai from places such as Pakistan and Sudan since the 1830s.
DEIRA HISTORY
Liberal trade policies have backed the development of Deira, which had become the largest souk on the Arabian coast by the early 20th century. It was a haven for merchants who left Lingah, on the Persian coast, after high customs were introduced there in 1902. They continued to trade with Lingah, as do many of the dhows in the creek.
A STROLL THROUGH THE SOUKS
AFTERNOON
Aim to start this walk around 4:30pm, when the souk shops re-open after prayers and temperatures are cooler. Start with an abra crossing (see Dubai Creek) from the Bur Dubai Abra Station. You can disembark at Deira Old Souk Abra Station. Take the underpass beneath Baniyas Road to emerge at the Spice Souk entrance. Enjoy a browse among the fragrant alleyways here. Leave the Spice Souk at Al-Abra St, turn right along Al-Ras St, which leads into Sikkat Al-Khail St. Ahead you will see the latticed entrance to the Gold Souk, with its colonnaded interior. There are more than 300 jewellery shops to explore (most accept credit cards).
Wander into the narrow alleyways off the main thoroughfare and enjoy a traditional cup of tea at one of the small cafés.
Exit at the Gold Souk and continue along Sikkat Al-Khail St to the tiny Perfume Souk. The shop windows here are a treasure trove of bottles filled with heady Arabian scents, incense and oud.
EVENING
Continue along Sikkat Al-Khail St and enjoy an evening snack at Ashwaq Cafeteria (04 226 1164), a down-to-earth café with outdoor tables, serving shwarmas. Next, return to the creek to admire the Dhow Wharfage. For a relaxed ending to the day, drop in at Dubai Creek and Yacht Club’s QDs and chill out with a cocktail.
Cafés and Bars
1. YUM!
Radisson Blu Hotel • 04 222 7171 • Open noon–11pm daily • D
“Live Fast: East Fast” is this noodle kitchen’s motto. Inspired by different Far Eastern cuisines, it makes for a fun pit stop for lunch or a quick dinner.
2. Aroos Damascus
Al Muraqqabat Rd • 04 221 3673 • Open 7am–3am daily • D
One of the city’s best cheap Middle Eastern cafés, with a menu featuring mezze, grills and fish, all beautifully cooked. Try to get a table on the terrace.
3. Creekside
Sheraton Dubai Creek • 04 207 1750 • Open 6:30–11pm daily • DD
Savour the freshest of fish, expertly prepared Japanese-style, and enjoy the lovely views of the creek.
The chic interiors of Creekside
4. Pappa Roti
04 2999266 • Deira City Centre • Open 9am–11pm Sun–Thu (until midnight Fri & Sat) • D
Try crisp, golden-crusted buttered buns, and delicious beverages including teas, flavoured coffees, juices and more at this restaurant. Pappa Roti is ideal for a quick nibble while you’re catching a break from touring the city.
5. QDs
Dubai Creek and Yacht Club • 04 295 6000 • Open 5pm–2am daily • DD
Lounge with a sundowner at this creekside wooden-decked terrace bar or enjoy a sheesha at the majlis area while the live band plays.
6. Paul
Deira City Centre • 04 295 8404 • Open 9am–11pm daily • DD
This bustling French brasserie chain has taken the city by storm over the past few years. It has excellent sandwiches, salads and eggs Benedict.
7. Cielo Sky Lounge
Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club • 04 416 1800 • Opening hours vary; call ahead • DD
A terrace bar with magnificent views of the Dubai skyline. Whether you’re looking to grab a sundowner or a fun night of music and dance, Cielo is the ideal spot for partygoers.
8. Irish Village
Garhoud • 04 282 4750 • Open 11am–1am Sat–Wed, 11am–2am Thu & Fri • DD
Throw back a pint and tuck into some fish and chips in Guinness batter at this Irish-style pub. The outdoor bench seating is an added delight.
9. Belgian Beer Café
Crown Plaza, Dubai Festival City • 04 701 1127 • Open 12:30pm–2am daily • DD
A favourite among expats, the BBC, as it is affectionately known, offers a wide range of Belgian speciality ales and traditional dishes.
10. Eclipse Bar
InterContinental, Dubai Festival City • 04 701 1111 • Open 6pm–2am Sat–Wed, 6pm–3am Thu & Fri • DD
This cocktail bar boasts a wow factor thanks to its views over Dubai Creek.
Restaurants
1. The China Club
Radisson Blu Hotel • 04 222 7171 • Open 12:30–3pm & 7–11pm daily • DD
This elegant restaurant has striking Oriental decor and an extensive menu of dim sum and Chinese classics.
The stylish interior of the China Club
2. Table 9
Hilton Dubai Creek, Baniyas St • 04 212 7551 • Open 6:30pm–midnight daily • DDD
Gastronomic surprises are served in a subtle, upmarket setting at this restaurant set up by two British expats.
3. Thai Kitchen
Park Hyatt Hotel, Dubai Creek Golf Club • 04 602 1814 • Open 7pm–midnight Sat–Thu, 12:30–4pm & 7pm–midnight Fri • DD
Thai delicacies are served from live cooking areas. The tasting portions allow you to sample a range of dishes.
4. Blue Elephant
Al Bustan Rotana Hotel, Al Garhoud Road • 04 282 0000 • Open noon–3:30pm & 7pm–midnight daily • DD
A must-visit for the Thai decor, delicious food and warm service.
5. Cheesecake Factory
Dubai Festival City Mall • 04 419 0874 • Open 10am–11pm Sun–Wed (until midnight Thu–Sat) • DD
A truly hearty, indulgent eatery boasting a selection of exquisite dishes served in wholesome portions, alongside a signature range of delicious cheesecakes.
6. Glasshouse Mediterranean Brasserie
Hilton Dubai Creek, Baniyas St • 04 227 1111 • Open 7am–10:30pm daily • DD
A chic, glass-enclosed casual restaurant that serves comfort-food classics. It is the perfect place for a light lunch or an informal dinner.
7. Traiteur
Park Hyatt Hotel, Dubai Creek Golf Club • 04 602 1814 • Open 6pm–midnight daily & 12:30–4pm Fri • DDD
Enjoy classic European cuisine and admire the chic, modern decor here.
8. Boardwalk
Dubai Creek Golf Club • 04 295 6000 • Open 8am–midnight daily • DD
Built on a wooden veranda with views of the creek, this place has a varied menu featuring light Mediterranean fare and Eastern-inspired dishes.
9. Anise
InterContinental, Dubai Festival City • 04 701 1131 • Open 6:30–11:30pm daily • DD
Enjoy international fare after some shopping at Dubai Festival City Mall.
10. Nomad
Jumeirah Creekside Hotel, Garhoud • 04 230 8572 • Open 6:30am–midnight daily • DD
This one-of-a-kind eatery offers a unique experience with international cuisine and a vibrant decor.
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
D Under AED 100 DD AED 100–400 DDD Over AED 400