Butterfly Gardening for Texas

Some of the best larval and nectar food plants that can be used in a butterfly garden are described here and in chapter 9—space prohibits describing all the useful plants to be found in the state. If you use a plant profiled in this chapter and have poor results in attracting butterflies, the best thing to do is consult the more complete additional food plant list that follows, as well as the list given in any good butterfly field guide. If one of the plants listed there is more prolific in your area than the plants shown or listed here, start watching the plants for larvae and larval usage. If locations for obtaining the plants are needed, call members of local garden clubs or butterfly organization. If you live close to a university, visit the botany and entomology departments. Usually someone there is knowledgeable about butterflies and will know the preferred larval food choices for particular species in your area. Some useful information can be obtained from various Web sites.

Become familiar with the “weeds” of your area that are known food plants. Each time you pass through a place where they are growing abundantly, take a close look at them; you will often find larvae. If you are unable to recognize some of the plants of the truly weedy type, visit the herbaria of high schools or universities and study the dried plant specimens.

The profiles have been placed in separate categories—trees, shrubs, vines, and herbs—and placed in alphabetical order by common name.

In the additional larval food plant list at the end of the chapter, the plants have been further separated into native and nonnative/cultivated species. Also on this list are some species of plants that are not especially desirable garden plants. They are included to show that in the wild they are heavily used larval food or nectar sources. If these plants are already present on or near your property, you might want to let them remain.

COMMON AND SCIENTIFIC NAMES: Vascular Plants of Texas: A Comprehensive Checklist including Synonymy, Bibliography, and Index by Stanley D. Jones, Joseph K. Wipff, and Paul Montgomery (revised, unpublished CD) has been followed for common and scientific names. In some instances, publications by the Botanical Research Institute of Texas were used for common names.

FAMILY: The family is the scientific classification to which each species belongs.

CLASS: This rating has been given the plants in order to better understand the plant and to help in its location. If “native,” the plant may have to be obtained from the wild either from seeds or cuttings or from nurseries carrying native plants. If “nonnative,” it may possibly be purchased or occasionally found in the wild along with the native species. If “cultivated,” then the plant will often be offered by nurseries or can be obtained from a mail-order catalog.

HEIGHT: These measurements are, in most instances, the extremes from lowest to highest as found in nature. Often in a garden situation, growth is faster and a greater height is achieved due to the greater nutrient and moisture availability.

BLOOM PERIOD: Dates given for both the larval and nectar plants are for the flowering period. The information in parentheses indicates the bloom period in the lower southern tip of the state, or the Lower Rio Grande Valley, where the bloom period is much longer. For the larval food plants, in most instances larvae use the foliage, which is available to them over a longer period, usually throughout the entire breeding season.

RANGE: The regions designated here follow the map found on the end sheet of this book and reflect the general ranges of the plants and butterflies. Range of the plants generally follows the Atlas of the Vascular Plants of Texas by B. L. Turner. For a larval food plant, only the regions both where the plant can be found and where the butterflies that use the plant as a larval food source are known to breed are given here. Before growing any plant as a larval food source, make sure the butterfly that would use it already occurs in your area.

When “Throughout” is given as the range, the plant either occurs naturally in all the regions or, in the case of a cultivar such as Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii), may be grown in the garden throughout the state. At least one of the species of the butterflies listed will use the plant in at least one of the regions.

Nurseries now offer many of the natives, which are slowly becoming available over a wider range. For a cultivated species, the ranges given are where the plant is recommended for use in the garden. The first regional number(s) indicates where the plant can most likely be grown and do well; the number(s) in parentheses gives a range where the plant can also be grown, although perhaps not as successfully.

Within each description there is a general, overall view of the plant and its characteristics and then the following information:

CULTIVATION: Generally describes methods for obtaining and growing a plant in the home garden.

PARTS EATEN: Provided in order for the gardener to better recognize when a butterfly larva (caterpillar) may be using the plant.

NOTE: An additional bit of helpful or interesting information about either the plant or the butterflies that use it.

RELATED SPECIES: Other similar or closely related species that butterflies use or that have some feature of interest.

Basally widely spreading and appearing multitrunked, deeply rooted, evergreen tree usually found growing in colonies. Bark usually blackish to dark gray splotched with paler grays, shredding in long strips. Leaves aromatic, dark green, needlelike, numerous, and forming dense foliage. Flowers tiny, golden-brown, the male and female on separate trees. Male trees (heavy pollen producers) readily distinguished in late winter or very early spring by the overall reddish-brown look of the foliage.

CULTIVATION: Ashe Juniper is rarely if ever offered by nurseries, but plants are so easily obtained from seeds, this is often the first choice for propagation. Collect the berrylike cones in late summer through fall after they have become full and dark blue in color. Gather fruit from several different plants, as viability varies.

Seeds can either be cleaned by soaking in warm water and then rubbed across screen wire, or planted as is, pulp and all. Either plant immediately in fall after fully matured, or cleaned and thoroughly dried seeds can be stored in dry, sealed containers and planted in early spring.

Ashe Juniper grows best in rocky, limestone soils with good drainage. No fertilizing is necessary, but occasional watering until established and growing well should be provided. While the tree is young, a thin autumn mulch of older, shed leaves is beneficial.

NOTE: May not be a tree you want to plant if property is small, but if already growing, make sure it has plenty of “growing room” to breathe and spread out. The Olive Juniper Hairstreak prefers the smaller (to fifteen feet) trees for egg laying. It also prefers trees growing in colonies, for the adults never stray far from their larval food plants.

RELATED SPECIES: In the eastern portion of the state, the Olive Juniper Hairstreak uses Eastern Red Cedar (J. virginiana), a more slender, single-trunked tree.

Medium tall, rather open, spiny, irregularly shaped deciduous tree with black, deeply furrowed bark. Leaves long, bluish-green, divided into numerous leaflets and appearing almost lacy, turn a soft shade of yellow in early fall; each leaf bearing two short spines at the base, with each leaflet folding at night and during inclement weather. Flowers attractive, white, fragrant, bonnet-shaped, numerous, and forming long, pendulant clusters.

CULTIVATION: Not commonly offered in the nursery trade, Black Locust will probably need to be propagated from wild stock. Collect the two- to five-inch-long pods when full and beginning to turn brown. Remove seeds and soak in hot (not boiling) water for several hours or overnight. Have a permanent space prepared where plants are to remain. Black Locust is adaptable to many soil types but grows best in deep, well-drained, calcareous soils.

Black Locust will probably need no added fertilizer other than well-rotted hardwood leaves worked into the growing medium the first few years. Keep plants well watered, especially when young. Once established, Black Locust will need no care except the removal of root sprouts. These sprouts can either be discarded, transplanted, or, if the area is large enough, left to form a natural grove as is normal in the wild. Butterflies choose the younger plants for egg laying, so plants of various ages are most beneficial.

USED BY: Silver-spotted Skipper (Epargyreus clarus), Clouded Sulphur (Colias philodice), Zarucco Duskywing (Erynnis zarucco).

Sprawling, slender-branched, fast-growing, weak, deciduous tree usually found in more moist sites in the wild; often clump-forming, with several trunks. Bark rough brownish-black with deep, wavy fissures, sometimes loosened in long flakes in lower portion of trunk. Leaves alternate, smooth, thin, long, and slender. Flowers tiny, yellow, forming long clusters, opening before the new leaves, with male and female flowers occurring on separate plants.

CULTIVATION: Black Willow can be easily started either from fresh seeds or cuttings. Seed catkins should be gathered as soon as they begin to turn brown and the “fluff” is first noticed. It is not necessary to extract the tiny seeds; simply scatter the entire catkins where plants are wanted. Keep the area moist. Germination is immediate, usually within twelve to twenty-four hours. After young plants are up and doing well, excess plants can either be pulled and discarded or moved to other sites.

The tree is easily rooted from cuttings; simply take hardwood cuttings in early spring before buds leaf out, insert in prepared beds of sand or sandy loam, and keep moist until well rooted. Under normal conditions, Black Willow can quickly obtain medium tree size and is best suited for a more “natural” situation, such as along the edges of streams or ponds. It can be grown in drier areas, but growth will be slower. It will need quite a bit of space for the gracefully drooping branches to expand.

This may be a tree to be left if already growing near the garden area rather than one to plant, unless property is large and moisture is readily available. Another option would be to either keep it trimmed small or periodically replace when it becomes too large.

USED BY: Red-spotted Purple (Limenitis arthemis), Viceroy (L. archippus), Mourning Cloak (Nymphalis antiopa).

NOTE: The Black Willow is shallow-rooted so is not a tree to be planted near a foundation or any kind of pipes, drains, or buried lines. The wood is soft and weak, with limbs breaking easily in strong winds or ice storms.

RELATED SPECIES: The cultivated Weeping Willow (S. babylonica) is often used as a larval food source and may fit into the landscaped garden more appropriately.

Small, understory tree with spreading crown and often crooked or leaning trunk; branches thin, delicate, and giving “twiggy” appearance. Bark of older trees dark brown to blackish, shallowly furrowed into small “squared” blocks. Leaves opposite, conspicuously veined, with some remaining green and some becoming brilliant shades of pink to crimson to moody wine in the fall. Flowers very small, greenish-colored, several held in a small cluster surrounded by four large, white (sometimes pink), petal-like notched bracts, the whole appearing as a “flower.” Flowering followed by clusters of somewhat elongated berrylike fruits becoming brilliant, shiny red in the fall.

CULTIVATION: Easily acquired from nurseries, Flowering Dogwood is one of the most common native trees used for landscaping. Serious thought should be given to its location before planting because specimens more than a year old do not transplant or tolerate moving of any kind very well.

If preferred, new trees can easily be obtained from seeds, cuttings, or “layering.” Ripe seeds can be sown immediately after gathering in the fall. Remove pulp from the seeds and cover with one-fourth to one-half inch of fine sand; then mulch over winter. Remove mulch after danger of frost in spring.

Seeds can also be kept over winter for spring planting by removing pulp; placing between layers of moist sand, perlite, or sphagnum moss in a ventilated plastic bag; then storing in refrigerator. Seeds should never be allowed to dry out, so the medium should be misted occasionally.

For softwood or semihardwood cuttings, take the terminal tip of younger growth, cutting just below a node or joint. Dip the cut end in rooting powder, place in sand, and keep cuttings and soil moist and shaded. Leave in rooting bed until the following spring before transplanting. After the plant is well rooted, a light fertilizing occasionally will be beneficial. Hardwood cuttings may be taken and rooted during winter but are often difficult and not especially recommended.

When planting either by seeds or by cuttings, using individual containers might be most beneficial, as the root system would be less disturbed at planting time. If setting permanently in the landscape, place the seedlings in well-drained but moist, sandy, acidic soils. They seem to flower best when in either partial shade or on the eastern side of shaded woodlands where the plants will receive only morning sun.

For landscaping, there can hardly be a better tree than the native Flowering Dogwood. Place this tree alongside Carolina Jasmine (Gelsemium sempervirens), or redbud (Cercis spp.), native pink-flowered azaleas (Rhododendron spp.), and wisteria (Wisteria spp.) for a lovely spring show. Use Blue Mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum), Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), and ironweed (Vernonia spp.) at its feet to complement the tree’s brilliant fall foliage and clusters of glistening scarlet berries.

In some areas in recent years, Flowering Dogwood has been susceptible to a fungus, Discula destructiva, which affects leaves and twigs and, if not treated, eventually kills the tree. Check with the local county agent about using this as a landscape tree in your area and how to treat this disease should it occur. Studies have shown that planting the trees in areas with good air circulation helps in the prevention of this disease.

Most often remaining a deciduous, short-trunked small tree with broad, rounded crown; large, spine-tipped corky prickles cover trunk and lower branches, upper branches and leaves often bearing reddish-black prickles. Leaves dark green, glossy, divided into several leaflets. Numerous small, greenish-white flowers form large, terminal clusters, followed by clusters of hard fruits resembling unground peppercorns. All parts of tree strongly aromatic when crushed.

CULTIVATION: This is an easily grown tree, not particular about soils. Give adequate moisture, especially during summer, for the healthiest and fastest growth. Habitually a stout or chunky-appearing tree, Hercules’club rarely needs pruning. It grows relatively fast up to about seven or eight feet, and then growth slows down. This is a plant for the sun, as it will not tolerate shade.

New plants are readily obtained by removing the outer husk from the fruit and planting the inner black, shiny seeds in early fall. This is not a plant usually found in nurseries, so if propagation by seeds seems too slow, try to find a construction site or a kind landowner. Potential plants may be easily found along fencerows, where they have been planted naturally by birds.

Hercules’-club may sometimes be attacked by white flies when in a garden setting, but frequent and forceful spraying of the undersides of the leaves with a garden hose usually discourages the pests.

NOTE: Almost all portions of this plant except the fruit produce a numbing effect when chewed; thus, one of its common names is Toothache Tree, as it was used often by earlier settlers to numb the pain of this common ailment. The dried, berrylike fruits can be ground and used as an herbal seasoning instead of black pepper.

An evergreen or persistent-leaved tree, rarely obtaining maximum height, usually with many trunks from the base and forming large clump. Bark of young tree reddish-brown, relatively smooth, later developing shallow furrows and ridges. Leaves aromatic, thick and leathery, bright green on upper surface and somewhat whitish or silvery underneath. Flowers small, creamy, and borne in small clusters from leaf axils. Small, dark blue to black fruits follow, each containing a solitary seed.

CULTIVATION: Although Red Bay usually grows in naturally moist areas, it can easily be grown in the garden in just about any soil with just a bit of extra care. Use no commercial fertilizer with this one. Instead, work lots of well-rotted leaves or compost into the soil and add a mulch of shredded leaves or pine straw.

Another requirement for Red Bay is excellent drainage. Unless the tree is planted on a sloping lot, loamy soil alone does not provide enough drainage. The best planting program is to use wide, raised beds at least one foot above the surrounding area and wide enough to give the plant enough area for root growth. A bed six by six feet is large enough for a number of years. Dig the original soil to a depth of two to three feet, and refill with a mixture of sandy loam and rich compost, shredded leaves, or well-rotted sawdust. A mixture of sand and coarse pine bark worked into the soil is excellent, keeping the soil loose, aerated, and well drained. Give Red Bay a little supplemental water now and then, because of the extra drainage required. In the second year after planting, if the shrub is well established and growing nicely, trim a few of the branches back occasionally to promote new growth. The plant will resprout into a clump of new stems with a lot of new growth.

Red Bay is susceptible to a leaf gall that disfigures the leaves, making them unpalatable for butterfly larvae. At the first sign of infestation, spot-spray with a mild Sevin solution. After a day or so, hose the plant down to remove the spray, or the plants will not be used for egg deposition.

USED BY: Palamedes Swallowtail (Papilio palamedes), Spicebush Swallowtail (Pterourus troilus).

NOTE: Red Bay is a common component in the moist, humid southeastern portion of the state but is also common in the saline soils of the coast, especially in the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge area. A small, isolated colony thrives in the rocky, caliche soils of the Hill Country. These plants are usually found in colonies, sometimes in dense thickets. The leaves of this plant are very aromatic and when dried, may be used in cooking the same as purchased bay leaves.

One of the most outstanding native small trees for landscaping; beautifully shaped, single or multitrunked, often twisted or gnarled, adding a special character to the garden. Bark on younger trees usually thin and reddish-brown, becoming thicker, scaly, and ridged or furrowed when older. Leaves large, pale green, heart-shaped, deciduous, becoming various shades of yellows and golds in autumn; in the more western regions, somewhat smaller, thicker, glossier, and with a slight waxy surface. Flowers bonnet-shaped, appearing before or with first leaves, producing tight clusters of pale pink to magenta. Flowering followed by clusters of reddish-brown to purplish, flat seedpods, remaining on the tree throughout the winter months.

CULTIVATION: Although Redbuds are great attractants to numerous species of flies, bees, butterflies, and other winged insects, the seeds are notorious for being infertile. To start new plants, gather a generous amount of pods by the end of August or even earlier. Separate seeds from the pod, spread seeds on paper, and allow to air-dry for a few days. Store in a sealed container until ready to plant in spring, or the seeds can be planted directly in the ground after gathering. After planting, place wire “tents” over the seeds for protection from predators.

Redbuds are commonly offered in the nursery trade, which may be the quickest way to obtain plants for the garden. Just be sure of what you are getting—often plants are offered as “natives” yet will be “improved.” Also, be sure that the variety is the one from your area.

RELATED SPECIES: Three varieties of Redbud occur in the state: Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis canadensis) in Regions 3 and 4, Texas Redbud (C. c. var. texensis) in Regions 2 and 6, and Mexican Redbud (C. c. var. mexicana) in Region 7. A narrow band of hybridization occurs along the western edge of Eastern Redbud and the eastern edge of Texas Redbud. This tree does not occur in the northern Plains area or the southern Rio Grande Valley. Eastern Redbud is shown here, but all varieties make excellent specimen trees for the home garden and grounds within their respective regions. They are used extensively for nectaring.

Thinly branched, well-shaped, small deciduous tree rarely attaining its maximum height; twigs bright green, limber, and breaking easily. Bark on younger trees smooth, reddish-brown, becoming grayish, thick and deeply furrowed on more mature trees. Leaves extremely variable in shape, may be entire, one-lobed (mitten-shaped), or distinctly three-lobed. Flowers greenish-yellow, in showy clusters appearing before the leaves or just as leaves begin to unfold; male and female flowers on the same or separate trees. Fruits showy, blue, borne on thickened, cuplike red pedicels, ripening in late fall. Almost all parts of this plant are aromatic.

CULTIVATION: To obtain plants of Sassafras, collect the attractive blue fruits when ripe, anytime between August and October, and sow the cleaned and dried seeds in the garden by late November. Getting a fair-sized sapling from seeds may be a bit slower than desired; on the other hand, well-established plants root-sprout readily and may need thinning or transplanting. Young saplings or root sprouts can more easily be transplanted if moved in early fall. If a sapling is to be moved, it should first be root-pruned to ensure a good root system of its own. To do this, in early spring spade completely around the stem at least a foot away from stem, then leave standing near the mother plant until fall, when it can then be dug and moved to the desired location. Better yet, well-established container-grown plants are frequently offered by nurseries and are the surest way of having adequate food plants.

Although Sassafras can eventually become large, for many years it remains a shrub or small tree. Sassafras grows best and produces the most foliage if given moist, rich, well-drained, sandy loams on the acidic side and plenty of sun.

Under normal conditions the lower branches of Sassafras continually die and fall off as the tree grows taller. Light pruning may be necessary from time to time to ensure the plant retains optimal height for egg laying and to increase foliage.

Very light applications of fertilizer in spring and early summer produce more foliage, but be careful not to overfertilize Sassafras—in this case, a little goes a very long way!

USED BY: Palamedes Swallowtail (Papilio palamedes), Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (P. glaucus), Spicebush Swallowtail (Pterourus troilus).

NOTE: In fall the leaves of Sassafras turn wonderful shades of yellow, orange, rose, pink-purple, and red, so try to plant in groups of three or more in the garden, placing them where they can be easily seen and admired.

Small, beautifully shaped, often multitrunked deciduous tree, endemic to rocky, limestone soils. Bark either gray and somewhat smooth or brownish to silver-gray, deeply furrowed, and with distinctive platelike scales. Leaves long-petioled, deeply five- to seven-aristatelobed, turning various shades of apricot, red, and maroon in the fall. Flowers tiny, numerous, of separate sexes with both male and female flowers on same tree, opening before or with first leaves; male flowers arranged in long, slender catkins; female flowers either single or in small clusters.

CULTIVATION: To obtain an oak tree of any size will take awhile, so for the garden, purchasing a large tree may be worthwhile. If time is not a factor, trees can be easily grown from their fruits, or acorns. Gather acorns directly from the tree as soon as they begin turning brown or immediately after dropping. Soak in hot water for about fifteen minutes to kill any infestation by weevils. Discard any seeds that float to the surface during soaking, because they will be sterile.

Immediately after the soaking, plant two or three acorns where the tree is wanted, spacing the seeds two or three inches apart. Place a chicken-wire tent over seeds for protection from deer or squirrels. Once the seedlings are up and doing well, pull the unwanted ones or move to another area.

NOTE: Spanish Oak is found in a narrow north/south strip roughly bordering IH-35 from the Red River south to San Antonio. To the west of this band will be found Texas Red Oak (Q. texana), and to the east, a much larger area of Shumard Red Oak (Q. shumardii). Spanish Oak may one day prove to be a hybrid of these two more dominant species or simply one species with variations because of adaptations to soils and climate.

Sturdy, erect-branched, rounded-crowned deciduous tree, usually found in colonies or “groves.” Bark tannish-brown to gray, at first divided into narrow plates that eventually begin to flake or peel. Leaves somewhat drooping, consisting of four to eleven pairs of slender, yellowish-green leaflets. Flowers creamy-white, numerous, and forming large clusters, either male or female and borne on separate trees. Fruit berrylike, numerous in showy clusters, each berry large, one-seeded, translucent orange-yellow, shrinking and wrinkling with age but remaining on bare branches through the winter months.

CULTIVATION: Soapberry can be found throughout the state, growing in almost any soil with the exception of wetlands or swamps. Plants for the garden may be obtained by gathering and cleaning the seeds in late fall. Pulp will need to be washed from the seeds, which may be a messy process because the pulp tends to foam and is “gummy,” sticking to the hands and utensils, making seed separation difficult. It may be necessary to wash several times until seeds are completely clean.

Another method is to place the seeds on a wire screen off the ground and leave to natural erosion of the pulp. This method usually takes four to six months. Cleaned seeds should be planted in early spring.

Uncleaned seeds can be planted directly in the ground in late fall, but reproduction will not be as reliable. If this method is used, place three or four seeds a few inches apart, removing the unwanted plants after a good root system has developed.

Cuttings of semihardwood can be taken from April to June, treated with a rooting medium, and placed in a sand/perlite mixture under mist and are usually successful.

NOTE: This is probably not a tree to plant as a specimen, for it will root-sprout, and no amount of mowing or chopping will prevent new outcroppings. Use this tree around the edges of property or along roadways where a grove or “stand” is needed.

The shiny black, white-spotted soapberry borer (Agrilus prionurus) is a recent invader from Mexico, first reported in Austin. Since then it has rapidly spread and killed many Western Soapberry trees in almost fifty counties. Signs of invasion include loose bark, usually at the base of the tree where birds and squirrels have worked it loose while probing for the white larvae feeding beneath the bark. Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control can be used to protect the tree against attack. There are also systemic controls on the market but, if used, will kill any and all butterfly larvae.

A beautifully shaped deciduous tree with scaly bark on lower portion of trunk. Bark in upper portion of trunk streaked horizontally in shiny, silvery-grays and soft blacks; inner bark green, aromatic, and very bitter to the taste. Leaves bright green, glossy, and bluntly toothed along the edges, turning bright, golden-yellow to reddish in the fall. Flowers small, creamy-white, appearing in long, drooping racemes in early spring, followed by small, round fruits. Fruit edible when fully ripe and dark black, but avoid red half-ripe fruit as it contains hydrocyanic acid, a respiratory poison.

CULTIVATION: Plant this tree in a moist, well-drained situation. It grows in a variety of soils and may be started from either seeds or cuttings. Nurseries dealing in native plants commonly offer these trees, by far the easiest way to get healthy, fast-growing plants.

If starting plants from seeds, gather ripe fruit, remove the pulp, and allow seeds to air-dry for a day or so. Layer dried seeds in moist perlite, and place in the refrigerator until ready to plant. Sow seeds in prepared beds in early fall; then cover the beds with a thin layer of mulch.

Cuttings should be taken from the first year’s growth, dipped in a rooting medium, and then placed in a sand/peat mixture. Keep moist and shaded with gauze until well rooted.

Foliage of Black Cherry is sometimes attacked by moth caterpillars. One, commonly called the tent caterpillar (Malacosoma americanum), forms large webs or tents of silk in angles of the branches. Close, continual inspection of the trees in early spring and immediate control are the best remedy. When webs are first sighted, squash the mass by running gloved hands up and down the branches. If these caterpillars are not removed, especially from a small tree, the tree can become stressed and sometimes is not able to recover from its loss of foliage.

USED BY: Coral Hairstreak (Satyrium titus), Striped Hairstreak (S. liparops), Henry’s Elfin (Callophrys henrici), Red-spotted Purple (Limenitis arthemis), Viceroy (L. archippus), Spring/Summer Azure (Celastrina ladon), Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio glaucus), Two-tailed Tiger Swallowtail (P. multicaudatus).

NOTE: Flowers of Black Cherry are used as a nectar source by many species of butterflies. However, the bloom period is short, lasting only two or three weeks. The ripe fruit is relished by birds, which also consume enormous numbers of butterfly caterpillars.

RELATED SPECIES: There are three varieties in the state: var. serotina in Regions 2, 3, and 4; var. eximia in Region 6; and var. virens in Region 7.

An erect, mostly evergreen shrub usually with many slender stems from base. Leaves opposite, extremely variable in shape, somewhat slender, the upper surface smooth and dull green. Flowers delicate, crinkly, pink to reddish-purple, three to seven forming clusters from axils of leaves. Fruit a small, shiny, red, berrylike drupe, similar to a small cherry.

CULTIVATION: This attractive shrub is much used in landscaping in regions as far north as Austin. As an escape, in the wild it can be found in sandy or clayey loams of the Rio Grande Valley. It grows in both full sun or dappled shade.

Propagation can be either by seeds or by cuttings. The three-seeded, glossy drupe can be planted directly in the ground after full maturity or in the spring after all danger of frost is past. Softwood cuttings are best taken in spring, dipped in a rooting medium, planted in a sand/perlite mixture, and kept shaded and under mist until well rooted. Gradually reduce the misting when plants begin to show rooting. If Barbados Cherry is to be moved, move in late winter or early spring. Cut plant back to half its original size, and keep well watered until established.

USED BY: Brown-banded Skipper (Timochares ruptifasciatus), Cassius Blue (Leptotes cassius cassidula), White-patched Skipper (Chiomara georgina).

NOTE: Fruits of Barbados Cherry are edible and may be used to make jellies and preserves. In the wild, it is an important food source for many species of wildlife.

Open, spreading or somewhat rounded, thorn-less, hard, deciduous shrub. Leaves composed of many tiny, silvery-green leaflets conspicuously dotted on lower surface with minute glands; foliage very aromatic when crushed. Flowers magenta and white, with several compressed into shortened terminal spikes or clusters; flowering usually very prolific, plants often almost solid masses of beautiful color.

CULTIVATION: Black Dalea is a native to dry, rocky, limestone soils and is generally found growing mixed with other brushy-type shrubs.

This is not one to be found in nurseries, so to get plants, you have to plant seeds or take cuttings. By far, the former is the easier method. Collect seedpods after they have become plump and brown. Extract seeds immediately after gathering, and plant either in a seedling bed from which the seedlings can be transplanted or directly into the spot where the plants are to remain. If seeds are to be carried over winter, wait to gather them until as ripe as possible and then air-dry several days after removing from the pods. Fumigate the seeds for a day or so, and then refrigerate for the winter. Sow seeds in spring after danger of frost is past.

Semiwoody tip cuttings can be taken in summer or early fall from the more succulent growth of the current season. Dip cuttings in hormone rooting powder, and place in sand under a plastic frame. Place the rooting container in open, light shade, and keep moist but not soggy.

Black Dalea does quite well even in the poorest of soils and under almost droughty conditions, so do not kill it with kindness in the garden. See that the plants get a good start by placing them in a sunny location with well-drained soils, adding lime if necessary but not fertilizer. Provide the plants with moisture until well established; then water occasionally during the summer if needed, but generally leave them alone. After the plants have become well established, Black Dalea will produce more flowers if trimmed severely each spring.

NOTE: Black Dalea is an excellent nectar source for many species of butterflies.

RELATED SPECIES: Gregg’s Dalea (D. greggii), a sprawling native perennial naturally occurring in Region 7, can easily be grown as far east as Austin. It is the larval food plant of the Reakirt’s Blue (Echinargus isola) and an excellent nectar source.

A densely branched evergreen shrub; entire plant covered with fine whitish hairs, which make it very soft to the touch and give it its unusual coloration. Leaves pale grayish or “ash-colored,” retained during the winter, adding color and interest to the garden. Flowers somewhat bell-shaped, ranging in color from white to various shades of pinks to lavenders and purples.

CULTIVATION: Cenizo does not propagate well from seeds nor does it transplant well. It can easily be raised from cuttings of the current season’s growth, and this is the best way to obtain new plants.

Take semihardened cuttings of the current season’s growth, usually in April to July, dip cuttings in rooting medium, plant in a peat/perlite mixture, and then place under mist. Once well rooted, cut back to ensure denser growth and a more compact plant.

Container plants are being offered by almost every nursery and are available in a wide variety of leaf and flower colors and in dwarf forms. Not all forms are winter hardy for all areas, so purchase plants recommended by knowledgeable nursery personnel.

Use these plants in a dry, well-drained site, preferably with rocky or gravelly soils. If drainage is a problem, raise the beds. Once the plants are well rooted, a deep, thorough watering during extended droughts is beneficial, but overwatering produces a straggly, sprawling, tender plant that will winter-kill. Contrary to popular belief, it is not rain or watering that induces flowering of Cenizo but high humidity.

All members of Leucophyllum need alkaline soils. Add dolomitic limestone to acidic soils, and if more calcium is needed, adding gypsum would be appropriate. Do not use peat moss in the area where Cenizo is growing, as it would make the soil acidic. Cenizo is generally hardy and disease resistant and usually needs nothing but the proper soil for producing spectacular plants. The only serious problem is with cotton root rot, a fungus to which all Cenizos are highly susceptible.

Place several Cenizos together in small groupings, use as untrimmed hedges or screening, or arrange as the background of a border. These are slow growers, so if you are using them in the last two situations, buy large plants, as small plants may be shaded out by the plants in the front. Do not crowd Cenizo wherever you plant it, for it likes the drying breezes. If the plants need shaping to keep in bounds, trim very sparingly during spring or summer. The plants bloom on old wood as well as new growth, so do not trim to try to force flowering, and take out only what is needed for shaping. Overtrimming ruins the naturally beautiful shape of this shrub.

PARTS EATEN: Foliage preferred; buds and flowers if the larvae run out of leaves.

A parasitic, clumped evergreen shrub growing on both evergreen and deciduous trees. Leaves, small, thick, leathery, either yellowish or dull, dark green. Flowers minute, inconspicuous, male and female occurring on separate plants, forming short, stiff racemes later followed by pearly-white to creamy somewhat translucent berries on female plants.

CULTIVATION: New plants of Christmas Mistletoe are usually started from bird droppings. The fruits or berries consist of a mass of mucilaginous material surrounding the solitary seed. The seeds, even after being eaten, remain whole within some of the glutinous substance and readily become attached to whatever they contact.

Christmas Mistletoe depends on its host tree for certain nutrients. As the seeds sprout, they send minute, hairlike tendrils beneath the bark layer, where they are able to absorb the liquid sap of the tree. If a weak or diseased tree becomes heavily infested with the shrub, the tree can actually be killed. However, one or two clumps on a healthy tree usually will neither weaken nor kill the tree.

These plants use several species of trees as hosts. Some of the common ones are ash (Fraxinus spp.), cottonwood (Populus spp.), elm (Ulmus spp.), hackberry (Celtis spp.), willow (Salix spp.), almost all of the oaks (Quercus spp.), and Honey Mesquite (Prosopis glandulosa). Christmas Mistletoe is a plant of open lands and will be found most often on trees in pastures, along roadsides, at woodland edges, or in thin woodlands.

The first requirement when trying to propagate Christmas Mistletoe is to have a healthy host plant that is preferably a few years old. Then, in mid- to late winter, gather the berries and mash them all over the branches and trunk of the tree. Several species of birds savor the berries, in particular, Eastern Bluebird (Sialia sialis), Cedar Waxwing (Bombycilla cedrorum), and American Robin (Turdus migratorius). If a flock of these birds is sighted, gather some of the seed-filled droppings and smear these on the tree where you want mistletoe to grow. Often the percentage rate of germination is greatly increased for seeds that have passed through an animal’s digestive tract.

If more than six clumps of plants begin to grow, remove all but three or four after the first year or two. It will do no good to weaken or kill the tree. Each clump will be either male or female, so wait to remove the unwanted clumps until they begin to bear fruit and sex of the plant can be determined.

NOTE: Berries (from female plants) of all of the mistletoes are often used for decorative purposes but are toxic to humans and should never be eaten.

Stout, irregularly branched, tropical-appearing deciduous shrub; stems, branches, and young growth usually covered with soft, reddish-brown hairs. Leaves large, thick, leathery, pale green. Flowers small, purplish or brownish, solitary, appearing in early spring before or with first leaves. Fruits two to three inches, banana-shaped, turning black or dark brown when ripe.

CULTIVATION: Dwarf Pawpaw is an interesting plant for the garden but not one to use for showiness. It is an ideal background plant for the semishaded part of the garden and blends in well with such other natives as Piedmont Azalea (Rhododendron canescens), Red Bay (Persea borbonia), Sassafras (Sassafras albidum), and Spicebush (Lindera benzoin).

Dwarf Pawpaw prefers somewhat acidic, moist but well-drained, sandy-loam soils. It grows quite well in the garden under these conditions but cannot tolerate dry, hard soils. It can survive in full sun but does best in open, airy semishade.

Propagation is usually by seeds or cuttings. Both methods are difficult and time-consuming for the home gardener, with very unsure results. It is best to leave propagation to the larger growers who are professionally trained and have the necessary equipment. Native growers sometimes offer Dwarf Pawpaw as potted plants. This is the quickest way to ensure having a plentiful food supply.

Dwarf Pawpaws are extremely deep rooted and very difficult to impossible to transplant, so place the plants where they are to remain. If transplanting is absolutely necessary, dig deeply and carefully to get as much root as possible. Cut top growth back two-thirds or more, and plant in carefully prepared sites. Dig planting holes much larger than the root balls, and add lots of half-rotted pine needles and sharp sand to the new hole. If the plants were doing well, take some soil from where the plants were growing and add to new hole. After planting, add a deep mulch of pine needles. Keep plants moist but not soggy until new growth begins. Once fully established, Dwarf Pawpaw will root-sprout into small colonies.

NOTE: The larvae feed at night or during the day if cloudy; at other times they rest near the base of the plant.

Many-branched, deciduous shrub usually wider than high; branches slender and brittle. Leaves small, widely spaced, pale green, opposite. Flowers bright firecracker-red or deep orange, numerous, slender, tubular-shaped, forming open, terminal racemes. Fruit a long, club-shaped, flattened capsule containing flat, wrinkled, black seeds.

CULTIVATION: A very drought-tolerant plant and one of the easiest of natives to grow in the home garden if given an exposed, sunny site with dry soils. It is exceptionally disease resistant. Flame Acanthus is one of the last to put forth leaves each spring but one of the last to lose its leaves in the fall. The flowering period is intermittent but continuous, with the heaviest flowering during the hottest, driest periods of late summer and into fall.

New plants can easily be obtained from seeds, seedling transplants, or cuttings. Two to four seeds are formed in each capsule, with seeds maturing throughout the summer and fall after each flowering period. Once they begin ripening, collect the capsules almost daily until the amount of seeds needed is obtained. Upon drying, the capsule splits, flinging the seeds about the area, sometimes several feet. The seeds should be thoroughly dried after gathering and stored until the following spring. Seeds germinate readily without any pretreatment. After all danger of frost is past, plant in a prepared site in the garden and keep moist but not soggy. Flame Acanthus readily reseeds, and new plants can easily be moved from around the mother plant.

Use this as a specimen planting, placing at least three plants in a prominent area of the lawn or entrance way, or use for an untrimmed, solid hedge. Otherwise, mix with other shrubs in a border. They are very striking when grown in barrels for the porch or patio. When trimmed or shaped, the branches become thicker and denser, but in many instances the more natural look, even if less branched, is more appealing in a garden planting. To obtain more branching and still retain a natural shape, cut the entire plant back to approximately six inches above ground level after a hard freeze or in very early spring.

USED BY: Janais Patch (Chlosyne janais), Elada Checkerspot (Texola elada ulrica), Texan Crescent (Anthanassa texana).

A single or several-stemmed, usually medium-sized deciduous shrub, only occasionally reaching small tree size. Leaves dark green, glossy on upper side, up to a foot long, composed of five to several leaflets. Flowers showy pink to magenta, several and forming large clusters, appearing just before or with first leaves. Fruit capsules decorative, woody, three-lobed, maturing in late fall, hanging from branches on long, slender stems; each lobe or compartment containing a single, shiny, dark brown to blackish round seed.

CULTIVATION: To propagate Mexican Buckeye, gather the capsules when dark brown, beginning to split, and seeds are shiny and very dark, usually from August to November. Remove seeds from pods, and spread on paper to dry for a few days. After they are completely dry, store in a sealed container during winter.

Plant seeds in early spring after danger of frost. Studier plants are obtained if seeds are sown directly where plants will remain or in tall pots, allowing the deep taproot to become established. If seeds are planted in pots, keep exposed bottom roots trimmed to force the plant to develop a secondary root system. Potted plants grow fast and can be transplanted from pot to garden by early fall. Plants started from seeds should flower their third year.

In the wild, Mexican Buckeye is most commonly found in rocky soils in the Hill Country westward, usually on slopes, canyon walls, or ridges. Garden soils in these regions should be a little on the lean, dry side.

NOTE: Growth and flower color vary according to range. In the extreme western portion of the state, growth form is smaller, leaves are smaller, and the flowers are very dark in color. In the extreme eastern portion of its range, the growth is more straggly and the flowers much paler in color.

Small, delicate, deciduous shrub, woody at base, with slender, spreading herbaceous branches; plants often multitrunked from base. Leaves alternate, small, usually covered in short, soft hairs, pointed at tip. Flowers small, white, in frothy terminal racemes.

CULTIVATION: New Jersey Tea is not easily transplanted because of excessively large, burl-like rootstocks, but it can be propagated from seeds or cuttings. Plants are occasionally offered by nurseries, and if found, this is the best way of obtaining plants. If seeds are to be gathered, watch the capsules carefully. Immediately upon ripening, the capsule splits, throwing seeds quite a distance from the plant and making it practically impossible to find them on the ground. Tie small squares of nylon netting around almost-mature capsules, thus preventing loss of the seeds. Getting these seeds to germinate is sometimes difficult. Soaking seeds in hot water before planting or layering in moist perlite or peat moss for two to three months before planting sometimes promotes better germination. Best results are obtained if seeds are simply cleaned and planted immediately after gathering.

New Jersey Tea will also root from semi-hardwood shoots of the current season’s growth. Be careful of the very brittle roots when moving newly rooted cuttings to permanent beds. For better-formed plants, pinch the tops of cuttings when transplanting.

Usually growing in sandy soils, New Jersey Tea is tolerant of a variety of soils in a garden situation if given enough moisture and excellent drainage. It is best used in a lightly shaded portion of a perennial border, along a shady path, or in filtered sun at the edge of a woodland. Plant in groupings of three to five, as butterflies are more attracted to large patches of color and are better able to detect the chemical fragrance of the foliage when in masses. The bloom period lasts only two to three weeks, but seed capsules that form later are a beautiful brown and remain on the plant until the next year. After plants begin showing good growth in early spring, pinch or trim back to make growth bushier and to keep plants lower.

USED BY: Spring/Summer Azure (Celastrina ladon), Mottled Duskywing (Erynnis martialis).

RELATED SPECIES: A very similar-appearing species, Redroot (Ceanothus herbaceus) can be found almost throughout the state with the exception of the Rio Grande area and the far western portions. It, too, is probably used as a food plant by the Spring/Summer Azure.

Usually low-growing, tough, deciduous shrub with silvery-gray bark peeling off in patches and revealing a reddish-brown inner layer. Leaves distinctively lobed, similar to leaves of parsley (Petroselinum crispum). Flowers white, in clusters that cover the branches before or with first leaves; anthers red, conspicuous, making the flowers appear almost pink from a distance. Flowers followed by small, applelike fruits, turning a brilliant scarlet in late fall.

CULTIVATION: Parsley-leaved Hawthorn, as are almost all species of Crataegus, is easily grown from stratified seeds; cuttings are not very successful. Seeds should be soaked in water for several days until swollen. Then layer the seeds in moist perlite in an airtight plastic bag, and place in the refrigerator for four to six weeks. Some local nurseries and catalogs offer container plants.

If young plants are to be moved, tag them in the summer or fall when easily identified; then move them after they become dormant in the winter. Parsley-leaved Hawthorn has an extremely long taproot; take care not to break or cut this taproot when transplanting. In the garden, plant in loose, loamy garden soils, fertilize occasionally, and give adequate moisture. Well-established plants can survive brief periods of drought, but prolonged summer dryness can cause the fruit to fall prematurely.

Use this shrub along a naturalized woodland edge or as a specimen planting. It can be left as a single stem by trimming root sprouts that occur. If a bushier plant is desired, cut back to three or four inches from the ground when the plant is two or three years old. New growth results in several stems for a low-branched specimen.

To achieve an immediate clumped effect, place three or four small plants together. For easiest planting, remove approximately one-fourth of the soil from one side of the plants in one-gallon containers. Put all three (or four) of the plants close together in the same hole, and lean the trunks of the plants slightly away from the center. When planted, the trunks should look like a slightly spread, upside-down tripod.

Rarely does Parsley-leaved Hawthorn attain the maximum height given here, perhaps doing so only after many years. It usually remains a slow-growing, low- to medium-height shrub or low tree. With good garden care, there should be no problem growing this shrub well outside its normal range.

NOTE: When in flower, this small shrub attracts numerous butterflies for nectaring, especially various Hairstreaks (family Lycaenidae), Skippers (family Hesperiidae), and the Swallowtails (family Papilionidae): Zebra (Eurytides marcellus), Eastern Tiger (Papilio glaucus), and Palamedes (P. palamedes).

Dense, stout, thickly branched deciduous shrub, usually forming stands or colonies; in the wild, usually found on dry, rocky slopes, canyon walls, or caliche ridges. Leaves small, alternate or clustered, dull green, variable in shape, rippled or wavy along edges; all young leaves and branches covered with star-shaped hairs. Flowers small, greenish-white, either male or female, may occur on the same or separate plants; male flowers occurring in short panicles or clusters, the female solitary or in pairs at tips of branches. Fruit a plump, three-lobed, three-seeded capsule.

CULTIVATION: Propagation of Southwest Bernardia is uncertain. Gather seeds from the plant as soon as mature, plant some immediately, place some in a paper bag, and carry through until spring; then plant after all danger of frost is past. Place some seeds in a container, keep in the refrigerator until spring, and then plant.

Take softwood cuttings in midspring, dip in rooting hormone, place in a sand/perlite mixture, and mist or water only when needed.

Native plant nurseries may carry this plant, and if found, may be the best means of obtaining these food plants.

NOTE: As this shrub is not a colorfully flowering one, use it at the back of the border or where a thick, warm-season screening is desired.

Graceful, smooth, aromatic, slender-branched deciduous shrub or small tree, usually with few to several trunks; older bark covered with small, corky bumps and spicy to the taste. Leaves bright green, smooth, glossy, fragrant when crushed. Flowers small, yellow, fragrant, male and female on different plants, forming small clusters close to the branches, opening before new leaves appear. Fruits in clusters, small, bright red, spicy, borne on female plants in late summer or fall.

CULTIVATION: Spicebush can easily be propagated either by seeds or cuttings. Collect seeds in late summer or as soon as fully ripe, and clean immediately. Pulp can be removed by soaking seeds in warm water (a little added detergent will help), or the pulp can be rubbed off by rolling fruits on screen wire.

Best germination will be obtained if seeds are sown immediately after gathering and cleaned. If this is not possible, place cleaned seeds between layers of moist sand or peat moss and keep moist and cool. They can be kept for one to two months (although rate of germination will not be as good), then should be planted either in the garden or potted in sandy loam for later planting.

To root cuttings, use two- to three-inch-long mature side shoots of the current season’s growth. Cut at a slant, dip cuttings in a rooting hormone, and insert cuttings into a prepared bed of sandy loam. Mist cuttings frequently. Occasional applications of rooting hormone are beneficial. These plants quickly develop a long, deep root system and become difficult to transplant so should be set in a permanent situation as soon as well rooted.

In the eastern garden, place Spicebush in moist sandy or sandy-loam soils on the acidic side in open, thinly shaded areas or where it will receive only morning sun and afternoon shade. For the western regions, it will tolerate dry, thin, alkaline soils as long as partially shaded.

After Spicewood becomes well established, it usually puts out suckers or “sprouts” that can be cut or separated from the mother plant or, if space permits, left to form small colonies.

USED BY: Spicebush Swallowtail (Pterourus troilus), Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio glaucus).

NOTE: If purchasing plants, obtain them from native growers in your area. East Texas plants will not survive in the Central Texas soils and climate, or the West Texas ones in East Texas.

Loosely upright, many-branched, ferny-appearing deciduous shrub with few to several stems from base. Leaves a rich, dark green, divided into numerous tiny leaflets that produce a delightful aromatic fragrance when touched. Flowers numerous, small, white or creamy-colored, fragrant, clustered in slender racemes from the leaf axils or near the branch tips.

CULTIVATION: Texas Kidneywood is easy to propagate from either seeds or softwood cuttings. If using seeds, gather the pods after they have turned brown and are at least partially dry. Place pods in an open container, on a wire screen, or in an open paper bag until completely dry. After drying, remove seeds from the pod or leave the thin, papery pods intact. Place seeds or pods in a paper bag; add a mothball, a few naphtha flakes, or a portion of an insect strip; seal tightly; and store at room temperature until spring.

After danger of frost, plant seeds in the garden where plants are to remain. To better break dormancy, pour boiling water over the seeds and let stand until the water cools, and then plant. Seedling growth is slow at first, but water occasionally with a weak soluble fertilizer. Once the roots become established, tip growth becomes quite rapid.

Softwood or semihardwood cuttings can be taken in summer and early fall. Remove bottom leaves from a four- to six-inch cutting, dip stem in rooting powder, and place either in flats or individual pots. Cuttings should be rooted in three to four weeks, at which time they should be individually potted for the winter. Plant out in the garden the following spring. Young, two-foot plants should be pinched back or trimmed to promote denser growth.

Texas Kidneywood is now available at many nurseries offering native plants. Buying there would be the best and fastest way of obtaining plants already established and large enough to furnish food for larvae.

Use Texas Kidneywood as a specimen plant, as a delicate hedge to line a walk or driveway, or in groupings at the back of a border. It is especially lovely in groups of two or three in a mixed planting with other native shrubs. This is a plant used both as a larval food source and for nectaring, so give it a prominent position in your plantings. Place it in full sun.

In the wild it is more commonly found in calcareous soils but does quite well in sandy or loamy soils. In its native haunts and under normal growing conditions, heaviest flowering is usually in May and again in August and September, but it almost always blooms after any rain. In the garden an occasional heavy soaking during the drier months usually promotes a burst of flowering. An occasional addition of organic fertilizer can help during the growing season but is not mandatory.

A large, rounded deciduous shrub with several stems or sometimes a small tree, with aromatic bark and foliage. Leaves alternate, divided into three separate leaflets of various shapes. Flowers small, greenish-white, fragrant, in clusters in spring followed by conspicuously winged, wafer-thin, circular fruits coming to full maturity in late summer or early fall.

CULTIVATION: If not in flower or fruit, Wafer-ash can be mistaken for a small ash (Fraxinus spp.). It is easy to grow from either fall- or spring-planted seeds. Propagation by cuttings is usually less successful and not generally recommended. Gather seeds in late summer or early fall, and plant them in the garden immediately. Mark the planting area well—seedlings do not show until the following spring. Good results can also be obtained by placing the seeds in layers of moist perlite, peat moss, or sand and refrigerating during the winter until ready to plant in the spring. Occasionally, this plant is sold in nurseries, especially those dealing in native species.

Wafer-ash is not especially particular about soil and makes do under near-drought conditions after becoming sufficiently rooted. It tolerates some shade but forms much lusher growth in full sun and with adequate moisture. Trimming or pruning also produces a bushier plant and keeps it to shrub size. If preferred, trim out all the stems except one or two for a small tree form.

USED BY: Giant Swallowtail (Papilio cresphontes), Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (P. glaucus), Two-tailed Tiger Swallowtail (P. multicaudata).

NOTE: Although the flowering period is not long lasting, many species of butterflies use the blossoms for nectaring, especially Hair-streaks (family Lycaenidae) and Skippers (family Hesperiidae). Some gardeners object to the odor of this plant, likening it to the scent of a skunk. If the odor is offensive, place the plant in a part of the garden where it will not be brushed against or bruised.

Entire plant sticky with glandular hairs, mound-forming, woody in basal portion, many-branched, the branches long, willowy, and vinelike; plant actually leans or “climbs” to tops of nearby shrubs or clambers into nearby trees. Leaves alternate, pointed at tip, wider at base. Flowers white, the tube long and slender, several in elongating, open cluster.

CULTIVATION: The best method of obtaining new plants of White-flowered Plumbago is by cuttings, since propagation by seeds is not very dependable. Seedlings are easily started by taking semihardwood cuttings in late spring, dipping in rooting medium, and then placing in a sand/perlite mixture. Plant outside when well rooted and showing good leaf growth. Native plant nurseries commonly offer it.

White-flowered Plumbago will grow in almost any soil and prefers bright shade or morning sun. Beneath tall shrubs or small trees or on the east side of house is ideal. Lightly fertilize plants two or three times during the growing season, and water thoroughly when soils become conspicuously dry.

These plants will generally die back to the ground in the more northern portion of its range but will come back quickly in the spring, producing even more growth than in the previous year. Mulching during the colder months will help the deep root system to keep growing.

USED BY: Cassius Blue (Leptotes cassius cassidula), Marine Blue (L. marina).

NOTE: White-flowered Plumbago is native to the southern and westernmost regions of the state and is also used as a nectar source. It is planted and does well as far north as Austin. A blue-flowered form is also widely planted but is not native and is not used either as a larval food or nectar source.

Upright, many-branched, deciduous shrub, often with few to several stems and forming a clump. Leaves opposite, divided into five to thirteen leaflets, the margins deeply toothed. Flowers large, yellow, trumpet-shaped, forming showy, elongating terminal clusters. Fruit a long, narrow, flattened capsule filled with numerous flat, two-winged seeds.

CULTIVATION: Yellow Bells is one of the most beautiful native shrubs within its range. In the last few years, it has been offered by many nurseries that sell native plants and has found its way into gardens beyond its native range. This wide distribution demonstrates its ability to readily adapt to a wide range of habitats and various growing conditions.

Plants can be obtained either at nurseries or by starting from seeds or cuttings. Seeds should be gathered when the pods become beige or brownish in color. Separate seeds from the pod, and air-dry on paper for few days. Plant seeds fairly soon after gathering for better germination. Plant where wanted in light, loose soil, and keep moist until sprouted.

Do not overwater, as seedlings easily root-rot. Good results can be obtained with cuttings by dipping four-inch-long branch sections approximately one-fourth inch across in a rooting hormone powder and potting. Keep potted plants under plastic until well rooted. Cuttings taken in midsummer will be rooted and ready for transplanting to the garden by fall.

Plant in average, well-drained soils, water only in times of drought, and this plant will ask nothing more. This is an airy, graceful shrub in its growth habit, blending beautifully with native and cultivated plants alike. Use it at the back of the border or in a hedge planting along with Beebrush (Aloysia gratissima), Barbados Bird-of-Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima), Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii), Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis), Texas Kidneywood (Eysenhardtia texana), and any of the lantanas (Lantana spp.).

NOTE: During really hard winters, Yellow Bells will usually freeze back to ground level but, if well established, will resprout from roots, quickly growing to flowering height. Place in beds or borders without soaker hoses. Instead, it needs periodic deep waterings, similar to what occurs in its native desert environment. Removal of spent flowers will ensure a more continuous flowering. These plants are readily used as a nectar source by many species of butterflies, especially Skippers (family Hesperiidae).

Trailing or climbing, much-branched, mostly smooth, deciduous, unpleasant-scented perennial. Leaves opposite, on long stalks, slender, dull green on upper surface. Flowers numerous, greenish-white to pinkish-purple, crowded into almost round, long-stalked clusters. Fruit a long, slender pod pointed at both ends; seeds numerous, tightly packed in pod, each seed tufted with long, straight, silky hairs; when pod splits, seeds released and carried by the wind by the silky hairs, which when dry, become light and fluffy.

CULTIVATION: Climbing Milkweed Vine can be easily propagated by seeds. Watch the pods, and when they turn brown and begin to split, collect and place them in an open paper bag to finish ripening. As soon as the pods are fully open, remove seeds. Place seeds in a container, and lay screen wire or gauze over the top to complete the drying process. Seeds may be directly planted in the garden in a prepared place; mark them well so you can find the seedlings. Be prepared for this plant to climb or sprawl, taking up quite a bit of space.

In the wild this plant will be found in various soils, from sandy to dry, rocky caliche. It will do extremely well in the home garden in soils that are not too rich.

USED BY: Monarch (Danaus plexippus), Queen (D. gilippus thersippus), Soldier (D. eresimus).

NOTE: Due to the unpleasant scent of this plant when disturbed, it might be well to place it where it is not often touched. It is used as a nectar source by the Queen and Soldier as well as numerous other species, especially Skippers (family Hesperiidae) and Hairstreaks (family Lycaenidae).

A climbing or sprawling semiwoody, slender-branched, deciduous, perennial vine. Leaves pale green, usually divided into five to seven leaflets. Flowers small, greenish-white, either solitary or borne in terminal clusters that later form conspicuous and showy feathery seed balls.

CULTIVATION: This is an easily propagated vine, either by seeds or by cuttings. The fluffy seed masses remain on the plant for some time after ripening, so obtaining the brown, mature seeds is usually no problem. Place seeds in a paper bag, and let dry for a few days. Clematis seeds require a prechilling (stratification) process to stimulate germination. Place the seeds between layers of moist sand in a container, seal the container in a plastic bag, and leave the bag in the refrigerator for two to three months. The seeds can then be planted directly in the ground in the spring after all danger of frost has passed. Healthy, viable seeds germinate in one to two weeks. If they are planted in a pot, transplant the vine to the garden when its roots have filled the container.

Cuttings from a mature plant can be taken anytime during the growing season. Clip a four- to five-inch section of a branch, strip off the lower leaves, dip the lowest node in rooting hormone, and insert the cutting into sand or vermiculite. Cuttings should be rooted within forty-five days, at which time they may be potted for planting in the garden the following spring.

Drummond’s Virgin’s Bower is easily divided if dug in early spring or late fall. Dig deeply, and retain a good ball of soil if possible. Clip all aboveground vegetation to about six inches from the crown before digging. Failure to do so often results in the stems being broken off too close to the ground, causing crown damage. Gently separate the root mass, or, if necessary, cut apart with a sharp knife, keeping some roots with each section.

First-year plants are slow to become established and will probably not flower until the second year. Once they are established, however, growth can become lush and rampant and may even require trimming to keep in bounds. These plants thrive in rich garden soils and do not necessarily need fertilizing. Each spring, work organic matter into the soil around the plants, and give an occasional thorough soaking during the growing season, if needed.

If left to climb upward on their own, these plants may become a bit top-heavy by midsummer. To keep them low and full, trim young growth back until quite bushy; then occasionally trim out some of the longer branches. Healthy plants immediately put out new growth just below where they were clipped.

This vine is easy to train and is attractive on arbors, trellises, or fences. If clipped for use on a fence, the dense branches make an excellent seasonal screen. But Drummond’s Virgin’s Bower is perhaps at its loveliest when left to freely clamber over a low split-rail fence or to sprawl across a jumbled pile of rocks.

Groundnut is a twining, high-climbing, somewhat hairy perennial vine from underground rhizomes producing strings of small, rounded, nutlike tubers; stems usually solitary but much-branched and often cover nearby vegetation; plants usually form small colonies, with the foliage dying back after frost. Leaves alternate, composed of five to nine leaflets. Flowers bonnet-shaped, brownish-maroon, sweet-scented, numerous, and forming stalked clusters.

CULTIVATION: Groundnut is easily propagated either from seeds or tubers. In obtaining seeds, netting or bagging the long, slender pods before fully mature is recommended, as seeds are flung several feet when mature pods split open. Plant some seeds immediately after they become fully dry, and save some for late summer or fall planting. In the garden, spread seeds where plants are wanted permanently, as moving members of this family is not recommended.

Underground tubers may be dug for transplanting, but if this is done, be very careful, taking only one or two of the topmost in order not to destroy the mother plant. Do not let tubers dry out, so get them into the ground immediately. Place in permanent, previously prepared locations in the garden.

Groundnut is usually found in rich, moist, mostly sandy soils in the wild, but if given sufficient moisture, it will do quite well in most garden settings. As these plants have a tendency to clamber and climb, give them plenty of support, such as a fence, trellis, or brush pile.

If soils are sufficiently rich, no fertilizer other than yearly additions of well-rotted leaves will be needed. Extra moisture will keep plants healthy and the foliage in maximum condition for egg deposition.

USED BY: Silver-spotted Skipper (Epargyreus clarus), Southern Cloudywing (Thorybus bathyllus), Spring/Summer Azure (Celastrina ladon).

Twining and high-climbing or sprawling deciduous vine developing a stout, woody, crooked trunk with age. Leaves numerous, smooth, divided into several small leaflets. Flowers fragrant, pale to dark lavender or purple, numerous, bonnet-shaped, thickly clustered in numerous drooping racemes almost covering the vines, appearing after leaves come out. Fruit a long, somewhat flattened, velvety pod containing several large seeds, the pod constricted between each seed.

CULTIVATION: To obtain new plants, planting seeds can be tried. The seedpods of Kentucky Wisteria are very hard and tough and, if left to fall naturally, may not open for many months. For starting from seeds, gather pods in midsummer to early fall, let them air-dry, pry open the pods, and remove seeds. Soak the seeds several days; then plant, marking the planting site, for they may not show growth until the following spring. Do the same procedure in fall and again with a spring planting. Seeds may also be soaked in hot water before planting to help sprouting. Plants grown from seeds may not flower for many years.

By far, semihardwood cuttings are the most dependable way of getting new plants. They should be taken in late spring, dipping them first in rooting powder. Place cuttings in a sand/perlite mixture, and place under mist until well rooted. Kentucky Wisteria sparingly spreads by an underground root system, and occasionally young plants can be taken from the mother plant.

A sprawling, trailing or climbing, usually deciduous, perennial vine, often forming dense clumps. Leaves either solitary or most often of three leaflets, dull, dark green on upper surface. Flowers very small, yellow, usually several openly spaced on four-to-five-inch stalk. Fruit a small flattened pod containing one to three seeds.

CULTIVATION: The best and easiest way to obtain plants of Least Snoutbean is from seeds. Once a plant has been found and the pods first begin turning brown, collect the entire pod. Place the pod in a tall paper bag, and let the pod continue to dry. Upon drying, the pods split and the two halves twist and curl, flinging the seeds some distance. Seeds can be planted immediately or saved until fall or the following spring.

Once this plant is started in the garden, there will be an abundance of new plants each spring. Easily transplanted, they can be moved to desired areas. The plants develop extremely deep taproots, so if moving older plants, dig deep.

USED BY: White-striped Longtail (Chioides albofasciatus), Ceraunus Blue (Hemiargus ceraunus astenidas).

NOTE: Try using these in hanging baskets, placing three to four plants in each container.

An upright, trailing or sprawling, fast-growing herbaceous perennial vine climbing by tendrils from the leaf axils. Stems strong and vigorous, angled when young. Alternate leaves large, dark lustrous green, three-lobed. Two large conspicuous nectar glands on stalk near base of blade. Intricately formed, solitary, short-stemmed, fragrant, three-inch flowers rise from the leaf axils. The flowers are composed of five sepals and five petals, which are quite similar in appearance, subtended by a fringe of wavy or crimped, pale to dark lavender hairlike segments. Rising above are five stamens and a three-parted pistil. The flowers close at night. The fruit is a large, egg-shaped berry, orange-yellow when fully ripe. Containing mostly seed, the scant pulp is edible and the juice makes a tolerable drink.

CULTIVATION: Purple Passionflower is an easily grown vine and can be started either by seed or cuttings. Not particular to soils, it will do well in just about anything except hard clay or overly rich garden soils. One thing it does require is good drainage. It will tolerate long, droughty periods but blooms and fruits best with regular waterings.

A light application of 10-5-20 fertilizer two or three times during the growing season may be helpful, but avoid overfertilizing as this can cause serious root damage or even death to the plant. If in doubt, do not fertilize at all. Later in the season if the plant appears to need help, fertilize very rapidly.

In areas where this vine is regularly killed back to the ground each winter, a layer of loose pine straw may be beneficial.

For the most bloom and best fruiting, plant this vine in full sun or in partial shade to protect from hottest afternoon temperatures. If more plants are desired, seed may be taken from the fully ripened and dried seed pods in late fall, stored in a paper bag during winter, and planted in spring after all frost is past. Six-inch tip cuttings can be taken in early summer, dipped in rooting medium, and planted in small pots until rooted. Keep soil of cuttings moist but not soggy until new growth begins. Plant immediately in garden in permanent location.

USED BY: Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae incarnata), Variegated Fritillary (Euptoieta claudia), Julia Longwing (Dryas iulia), Zebra Longwing (Heliconius charithonius vazquezae).

PARTS EATEN: Buds, flowers, tendrils, tender leaves preferred;entire plant if stressed.

NOTE: Purple Passionflower can be used on fences for wonderful warm-weather screening, on decorative trellises, or left to clamber into nearby trees. They are beautiful sprawled across brush piles or low rock walls. Since it is rather a rampant grower, give it plenty of space to spread.

It is not unusual for this vine to remain evergreen in sheltered locations during mild winters.

A strong, vigorous, annual or perennial vine covered throughout with soft grayish or brownish hairs. Leaves light green, three-lobed, with middle lobe the longest. Flowers intricately shaped, pale lavender and purple; subtended by large, beautifully dissected, feathery-appearing bracts; bracts remain after flowering, partially enclosing the brilliant red fruit pods.

CULTIVATION: This hardy vine grows best in sandier soils and delights in adequate moisture and plenty of sun. Light applications of high-phosphorus fertilizer in spring and again in fall increase the number of flowers. Do not overfertilize, though, as the chemical structure of the foliage would change and not be acceptable as larval food.

Red-fruited Passionflower grows equally well if left to trail on the ground or if given a support to climb. It makes a beautiful “summer cover” for woodpiles or the brush piles often provided by bird-watchers as escape areas for birds. The vines are especially attractive when trained to climb on a low wooden fence at the back of a perennial border.

Seeds may be planted in the fall or spring. After the pods begin losing their red color and become brown, gather and leave them in an open paper bag in a warm area until completely dry and crisp. Crush the pods, and remove seeds. Store seeds in a dark, dry area in a sealed container until spring. Plant them in prepared sites after the ground has become warm. Seeds may also be planted in the fall, with plants appearing in late spring. Mature plants send out numerous sprouts from widely spreading underground roots, and these can easily be dug and replanted where wanted.

USED BY: Crimson-patched Longwing (Heliconius erato petiverana), Zebra Longwing (H. charithonius vazquezae), Julia Longwing (Dryas iulia), Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae incarnata), Mexican Fritillary (Euptoieta hegesia meridiania), Variegated Fritillary (E. claudia), Mexican Silverspot (Dione moneta poeyii).

RELATED SPECIES: As far as is known, every native species of Passiflora is used as a larval food source by the Longwing butterflies within their breeding range. Choose the ones that grow naturally in your area, or try some that grow just outside your range. Most of the larvae that usually feed on native passionflowers also use many of the cultivated sorts, some of which have gorgeously colored flowers.

A delicate, climbing or trailing, much-twining, herbaceous perennial vine. Leaves very small, smooth, triangular or three-lobed. Flowers beautiful violet or purple, snapdragon-like, solitary from leaf axils.

CULTIVATION: Snapdragon Vine is an easily grown plant that is not particular about soils and does well in whatever is provided. It is drought tolerant and a good choice for the drier, more neglected sites in the garden. It is a prolific grower, producing numerous slender stems that quickly cover its support. Snapdragon Vine is not generally offered by nurseries, but it can be raised from seeds.

Gather the small, round capsules as they become tannish-colored, and air-dry for a few days. Remove the small, thick, brown, corkywinged seeds by crushing and rubbing the capsule husk away. Plant some seeds in late summer or early autumn and some in early spring. Germination is somewhat unpredictable, so sow plenty of seeds and at various times. Even if spring planted, the vines often bear flowers by midsummer the first year. Not cold tolerant, foliage is killed by the first hard frost but reappears in early spring.

Easily adaptable, this vine does equally well twining through a hedge; trailing over a rock, shrub, or fence; or cascading from a hanging basket, or provide a small, special trellis of its own. If continued bloom is desired, bring potted plants inside in the fall before frost and place them in a sunny window for winter bloom. Gradually move plants outside again in spring as the weather warms. This vine needs only a light support and does not weigh down plants it happens to use in its reach for the sun. It is an excellent choice in any kind of container planting.

NOTE: Damage is usually minimal to these plants, as the Common Buckeye lays eggs singly or few to a plant. These plants are beautiful when used alone or with taller plants in containers or hanging baskets.

Upright, trailing, or sprawling perennial sometimes dying down to ground in winter, with fast-growing annual, vinelike stems and branches quickly forming large mounds or extensive colonies in spring. Leaves alternate, long, on long petioles, each leaf composed of three slender, dark green leaflets. Flowers large, bonnet-shaped, yellow, numerous and clustered in a gradually opening terminal spike, with few to several open at once. Fruit a long, roundish, slender, several-seeded pod.

CULTIVATION: As with most legumes, the pod of Wild Cow-pea opens immediately after becoming fully mature. For propagation, these pods should be gathered when partially brown and placed in a paper bag until completely dry. Remove seeds from the pods, and allow seeds to dry for a few days more. For the best chance of sprouting, plant some seed immediately, and then plant some seeds in the fall (mark the site well) and some the following spring. Propagation by cuttings is not very successful.

USED BY: Mercurial Skipper (Proteides mercurius), Proteus Longtail (Urbanus proteus).

NOTE: Wild Cow-pea will be found growing naturally in the moister sandy loams and heavy clays in the coastal regions. Due to its spreading habit and tendency to multiply rapidly, this plant may be too large and aggressive for the smaller home garden and may be best used for stabilizing banks or as erosion control.

A high-climbing, deciduous, perennial vine. Leaves large, handsome, heart-shaped, usually woolly with whitish hairs. Flowers elongated, oddly curved, shaped somewhat like a Dutch smoking pipe, an unusual shade of dark purple and greenish-yellow.

CULTIVATION: Woolly Pipevine is not too demanding about soils; it grows naturally in deep sands along upland streams and also in river bottom floodplains. What it does require is good drainage and adequate moisture but with a period of dryness between soakings. Best growth and foliage are produced if planted with the roots in dense shade and where the vines can climb a support to be in bright, filtered sun. It does very well planted at the edge of thick, tall shrubbery or small trees that it can use as a support. Vines die back to the ground each year, but spring growth is rapid and vigorous on healthy, well-established plants. The largest leaves are always the youngest ones, near the tips of the branches.

Propagation is best by seeds or by taking cuttings or runners. The seedpods are large but cannot be found very often in the wild, probably because caterpillars eat them.

If a plant is found in the wild with flowers that look old enough to have been pollinated, then the sleeving process might be tried. Take small pieces of nylon netting, cover each flower, and close the open end around the stem a couple of inches below each flower with a twist tie. When the pods mature, clip and spread them on paper towels until completely dry and beginning to release the seeds. When ready to plant, soak seeds in distilled water for at least twenty-four hours, changing the water every twelve hours. Have the water hand-hot when first adding the seeds. As each seed swells, remove and sow it immediately, before it has time to dry out. Plant the seeds in a professional germinating mix, barely covering the seeds and keeping the soil moist with distilled water. Place a piece of clear plastic over the pot, and put it in an area with lots of light, but not in direct sunlight. Light is very important to the germination of all species of Aristolochia.

Mature plants of Woolly Pipevine put out long underground roots or runners with many Ys or Ts, and often a new plant forms at these joints. If well rooted, these runners can be clipped on each side of the newly rooted joint. If propagation is to be tried with these young plants, have a container filled with a commercial potting soil prepared and plant immediately. Moisten with rainwater with a bit of root stimulator added. Place some sticks around the edge of the pot (taller than the plant), and cover with a clear plastic bag. Fasten the bag below the rim of the pot with twine or a rubber band. Do not let the plastic touch the plant. Keep the soil moist. After the plant is firmly established and showing new growth, gradually remove the plastic. Do not let these plants remain too long in containers, as they will grow only roots and make no top growth, so place them in the garden as soon as they are well rooted. Runners can be placed in shallow trenches in the garden, but take extra care to see that they never dry out until well rooted.

Woolly Pipevine is slow to come into flower; it may be two years or more before it blooms. Since these plants are being grown for their foliage, however, the flowers are not important to the caterpillars. Applications of compost or manure from time to time to well-established plants increases foliage.

Usually a thin, delicate, smooth, twining, deciduous vine found in more shaded areas, climbing by solitary tendrils from leaf axils. Leaves solitary, barely three-lobed, dull green on upper surface. Flowers small, pale yellow to greenish, consisting of many hairlike filaments, followed by small, round, globelike fruits turning black at maturity.

CULTIVATION: When fruits have become fully mature and begin to wrinkle, collect and remove seeds. Seeds should be rinsed under running water to remove all gelatinous matter, then air-dried for few days. Sow seeds directly in prepared beds where plants are wanted. Mark the area well. Germination is both poor and slow, and it may take two years or more for seeds to sprout.

Six- to eight-inch stem cuttings can be taken early in the season, dipped in rooting medium, and inserted into equal parts sand and perlite. When rooted, they can be transferred directly to the garden.

Once Yellow Passionflower is established, there may be occasional suckers or sprouts from the mother plant that can be taken up and transplanted.

USED BY: Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae incarnata), Mexican Fritillary (Euptoieta hegesia meridiania), Variegated Fritillary (E. claudia), Julia Longwing (Dryas iulia), Zebra Longwing (Heliconius charithonius vazquezae).

NOTE: Use these plants in hanging baskets or tall containers, either alone or in combination with other plants.

Low, upright to widely sprawling herbaceous perennial, usually with several unbranched stems from base and forming moundlike clumps. Leaves opposite or almost so, long, slender, the edges often folded together. Flowers greenish, numerous, and crowded into rounded, solitary terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: Rarely do nurseries offer any species of Asclepias other than Butterfly Weed (A. tuberosa) and Tropical Milkweed (A. curassavica). Antelope-horns are not easily transplanted because of the deep, brittle roots but are easy and fast to grow from seeds. Seeds can be planted immediately after collecting, or hold them over in cold storage until spring. The taproot grows very fast, so seedlings should be transplanted as soon as true leaves appear.

Take three- to four-inch tip cuttings before the plants begin flowering. Remove lower leaves, and insert cuttings into moist, pure sand or a sand and peat mix. Make a tent from clear plastic to cover the cuttings, and keep them moist. Cuttings should be rooted within six weeks.

Antelope-horns are very hardy once established and usually do quite well under normal garden conditions. They grow best and are less prone to stem rot if the soil is a sandy, somewhat gravelly type. Good, fast drainage is important. Place plants in full sun, give little or no fertilizer, and water only during periods of drought. Trim back well-established plants to three or four inches above ground level in June, and they will put forth new shoots and bloom again in the fall. If there are several plants in the garden, rotate cutting continually during the entire season, thus providing a constant source of new growth for caterpillars.

An upright, freely branching, shrubby annual or short-lived perennial with tough, almost woody stems arising from deep, tough roots; plants form large patches or colonies. Leaves alternate, short-stalked, wedge-shaped, deeply toothed on margins and borne on slender branches; lower side of leaves much paler with short, grayish hairs. Flowers solitary, yellow, five-petaled, arranged on long, slender stalks from axils of each leaf.

CULTIVATION: It is not difficult to get Arrow-leaf Sida started growing in the garden. It is as simple as gathering a handful of the small, tannish seed capsules when dried and scattering them where plants are wanted. Plant as soon as gathered; in the warmer portions of its range plants will come up within days and will continue growth through the colder months. In the warmest portions of its range, plants rarely freeze back entirely and will, in most instances, continue blooming. In such conditions, Checkered-Skippers (family Hesperiidae) often continue flying, and egg deposition begins with first new plant growth.

In colder areas, plant some seeds directly in the soil, and then plant more seeds in early spring after the first frost. This will assure a good stand. These plants are always found in groups or colonies and, for butterfly usage, should be planted in this manner around the home grounds.

This may not be a plant you want to use in regular flower beds and borders. It is a favored and much-used plant, however, so should definitely be considered for planting. Arrow-leaf Sida will self-sow and quickly spread and in some instances may be more aggressive than desired. Use it around outbuildings, toward the back of the property, in “waste” places, at edges of woodlands, or in any open, sunny, neglected part of the home grounds. Almost any kind of soil will do, even hot, dry sand or clay. No fertilizing is necessary and probably should be avoided. Mulching can be tried to help keep down any unwanted reseeding.

USED BY: Common Checkered-Skipper (Pyrgus communis), Tropical Checkered-Skipper (P. oileus).

NOTE: Once a few inches high and well established, Arrow-leaf Sida is almost impossible to pull up by hand. If eradication is needed, either clip at ground level or hoe unwanted plants.

Low, trailing or sometimes floating, smooth, tender-stemmed perennial with numerous stems rooting at the nodes or joints and forming large mats. Leaves opposite, about as wide as long, thick, and firm. Flowers solitary, long-stalked, generally a pale bluish-lavender. Fruit a somewhat longish capsule containing small seeds.

CULTIVATION: Coastal Water-hyssop can occasionally be found offered by aquatic plant nurseries and dealers, and this is the quickest and most assured way of obtaining this plant. Otherwise, gather ripened seed capsules; after seeds are completely dry, plant in a sand/perlite mixture, simply pressing seeds into the soil. Keep soil moist until new plants show. Seeds should be planted at various times in order to get a good stand. If possible, plant seeds outside where plants are to remain.

In placing in the garden, choose a site along the edge of a pond or around a leaky water faucet where a constant moist condition can be provided. Under ordinary conditions these plants will form a solid mat, ground cover, or an extended floating mat on water.

Low, upright perennial covered with soft, velvety hairs; often several stems from the base, forming a large, showy clump. Almost all “leaves” somewhat tinged with color, gradually becoming smaller as they extend upward and finally become colorful bracts subtending the flowers in upper portion of stalk; bracts, or modified leaves subtending flowers, long, slender, brightly colored, and often mistaken for “flowers.” Flowers long, tubular, yellowish-green, rather inconspicuous, usually extending somewhat beyond the subtending bracts.

CULTIVATION: All of the paintbrushes are almost impossible to transplant, but there should be no problem starting plants in the garden from seeds if some care is taken. Gather seed capsules as soon as they are dry and before they split to release the numerous tiny seeds. Let seeds air-dry for a few days, and then store in the refrigerator for fall sowing. When ready to plant, mix seeds with fine sand for better distribution. All species of paintbrushes are thought to be partially parasitic on roots of grasses during the early stages of growth, so plant the seeds in raked areas next to a clump of native grass for best results.

The percentage of germination will probably be small, but if only one or two plants come up and flower, they usually reseed quite well. A good colony should be established within two or three years. Since little is actually known about the propagation or life cycle of this plant, for best results try planting some seeds as soon as they are ripe, some in early summer, and some in the fall. Also, try them among natural areas of native grasses as well as in perennial beds.

Downy Paintbrush usually grows in dry, rocky, or sandy soils, so in the garden give it the most natural habitat possible. Do not fertilize or overwater these plants.

USED BY: Common Buckeye (Junonia coenia), Fulvia Checkerspot (Chlosyne fulvia fulvia).

RELATED SPECIES: The three varieties of Downy Paintbrush each cover a different local area: var. citrine with pale to dark yellow bracts, var. lindheimeri with pale to dark salmony-orange bracts, and var. purpurea with rose-pink to purple bracts (shown here).

Several other species of Castilleja occur in the state, and at least one of them, the annual Texas Paintbrush (C. indivisa), is used from Central Texas eastward by the larvae of the Common Buckeye. Many, if not all, of the others are probably used.

Low, woody-based, multistemmed, deciduous perennial, the stems upright or falling over with plant becoming moundlike. Leaves dark green. Flowers one to several from leaf axils but usually only one flower open at a time. Fruit a four-seeded capsule.

CULTIVATION: Downy Water-willow can sometimes be found at native plant sales or nurseries, and this is by far the easiest way to obtain this plant. To obtain seeds when the plant is found in the wild, watch the flowering closely. When capsules are found, enclose the capsule with netting or watch very closely for ripening. Once capsules become brown, gather, place in a paper bag, and let them dry. Remove seeds, plant some immediately in moist potting soil, and then plant some seeds every month or so. Save some seeds to plant the following spring.

Cuttings can be tried, but success of this method is not known. Try dipping cuttings in rooting powder, and place some in moist potting mix and some in sand.

In the wild, Downy Water-willow can be found in rocky, gravelly soils of the Hill Country to the calcareous silt, clays, and sands of the southern regions. In the home garden, do not make the soil too rich and give good drainage.

USED BY: Tiny Checkerspot (Dymasia dymas dymas), Elada Checkerspot (Texola elada ulrica), Rosita Patch (Chlosyne rosita), Vesta Crescent (Phyciodes graphica vesta), Texan Crescent (Anthanassa texana).

RELATED SPECIES: A native of the Rio Grande Valley, Runyon’s Water-willow (J. runyonii) is a larger plant with more flowers open at once. It is used by the Malachite (Siproeta stelenes biplagiata), Banded Peacock (Anartia fatima), and Texan Crescent.

A stout, upright, usually many-branched perennial that becomes semiwoody at base. Leaves to eight inches long and almost as broad, covered in short hairs, making them thick, soft, and velvety to the touch. Flowers numerous, five-petaled, yellow-orange, solitary or in short clusters, with one or two opening at a time in each cluster.

CULTIVATION: Obtain plants of False Wissadula either from seeds or cuttings. Gather seeds in fall immediately upon ripening. Air-dry seeds thoroughly, and place in a paper bag with an insect strip or a mothball for a couple of weeks. Remove, place in a sealed container, and store in the refrigerator until spring. After all danger of frost has passed, plant seeds either directly in the garden or in small pots for later transplanting. Cover seeds with one-fourth to one-half inch of soil. Mark the location well in beds, for sometimes it may take two years for the seeds to germinate.

Six-inch-long cuttings may be taken from strong growing tips of a healthy plant, dipped in a rooting medium, and then planted in well-drained soil. Before dipping them into the rooting medium, cut to just below a node and remove all but the top leaves. Cuttings are best taken in early summer in order for the plants to become established and growing well before fall. The success rate is not very high with cuttings either, so try rooting more than will be needed. Extras will always be welcomed by other gardeners who are trying to attract butterflies.

Cut back well-established, strong-growing plants to ground level during the winter months each year to encourage a robust, bushy habit and more flowering. Do not fertilize, for this would encourage lank, spindly growth with the foliage prone to developing powdery mildew. Also, keep on the dry side; mature plants cannot tolerate an overabundance of moisture. Butterflies will not use weak, sickly foliage for egg deposition.

Plants may be moved with some success. Before replanting, cut the tips back to about six inches above ground level; keep well watered until new growth appears and the root system is well established. For the first few weeks after transplanting, use a very weak soluble fertilizer about once every two weeks. Provide a bit of shade in the form of leafy branches or tented newspapers the first few days to help reestablish the plants.

USED BY: Common Streaky-Skipper (Celotes nessus), Scarce Streaky-Skipper (C. limpia), Laviana White-Skipper (Heliopetes laviana), Texas Powdered-Skipper (Systasea pulverulenta).

An upright to sprawling, deep-rooted, thorn-less perennial with one to several stems from a woody, persistent base; stems rarely branching, but plants put out numerous underground woody, creeping roots and form small colonies. Leaves alternate, bright green, usually divided into nine to twelve pairs of segments, with each segment bearing eighteen to thirty pairs of tiny leaflets; leaflets sensitive and will fold together during rain, at night, and when touched. Flowers numerous, white to creamy-yellow, in ball-like clusters held on stalks arising from leaf axils in upper portion of stem; flower stalks shorter than subtending leaves, with flower heads remaining intermingled with the fernlike foliage.

CULTIVATION: Fern Acacia is well adapted to a wide variety of soils and climatic conditions, as is shown by its wide distribution. In the wild this plant can be found along roadsides, in open woodlands, in prairie grasslands, or along bluffs, ledges, or outcrops of limestone or shale, often above streams and frequently in shade. In its natural habitat it seems to prefer either tight, heavy, calcareous clay or alkaline soils but can frequently be found in sand. It is a hardy plant that once established will take care of itself and continue to multiply quite readily. It does not multiply at a very rapid rate, however, so the plants do not become obnoxious or hard to control.

In the northern portion of its range, Fern Acacia will usually be killed to the ground each winter but in the southernmost areas will continue as an evergreen, at most losing only some of its leaves.

Plant Fern Acacia in full sun or dappled shade, giving it good soil and an adequate amount of moisture to get it growing well. Once established, it should not need any special attention. A light application of natural fertilizer or rich compost will enhance both growth and flowering, but do not overdo it. Overfertilizing and too much moisture will cause excessive foliage growth, fewer flowers, and, eventually, crown rot—resulting in death of the plants.

The easiest method to obtain a start of Fern Acacia is by seeds. The brownish seedpods, borne singly in the upper portion of the plant, are from two to three inches long, less than one-half inch wide, and very flat. They open promptly after becoming fully ripe, so it is necessary to observe the wild plants in order to gather seeds at the proper time. Seeds that are at least three-fourths brown in color can be gathered and stored in a cool, dry area for a few days or until completely brown and pods begin to split.

Seeds of Fern Acacia have very hard outer coats, and germination can be very slow. To hasten the process, after gathering the seeds, let them dry for two to four months in a cool, dry area. Refrigeration is not necessary. When ready to plant, pour boiling water over the seeds and soak for at least twenty-four hours. If possible, plant directly in the garden where they are wanted permanently.

USED BY: Acacia Skipper (Cogia hippalus hippalus), Outis Skipper (C. outis), Ceraunus Blue (Hemiargus ceraunus astenidas), Mexican Yellow (Eurema mexicana), Reakirt’s Blue (Echinargus isola).

Upright, colony-forming perennial from large bulb. Leaves large, thick, and lush, the foliage quite similar to that of a young banana plant, usually killed to ground by first hard freeze. Flowers large, red, with several forming a terminal spike that extends above the foliage; petals of various widths, with some upright and some recurved, giving the blossom a completely disorganized appearance.

CULTIVATION: Plant Garden Canna bulbs in March or April, spaced twelve to twenty-four inches apart. Divide established clumps at this time. Plants can also be raised from seeds if the seeds are scarified with a file and soaked in warm water overnight. Plant the seeds vertically, about two inches deep. They should sprout in about two weeks.

Garden Cannas grow in almost any soil and habitat, but blooms are more plentiful and colorful if the plants have rich soil and full sun. They demand good drainage; otherwise, the new growth will rot at soil level. When foliage is about eight inches high, apply a complete fertilizer, such as 12-24-12, around the plants at the rate of one to two pounds per one hundred square feet of bed; this amounts to a very light sprinkling. For lush, continuous new growth, keep old or damaged stalks cut to ground level. Once well established, healthy clumps need to be dug and divided about every three years. With just a little care as to proper watering and feeding, Garden Canna comes back year after year, the clumps becoming larger and the blossoms lovelier with each season.

NOTE: Be prepared for plants to look a little ragged at times, for once Brazilian Skipper caterpillars start eating, they consume a surprising amount in a short time. They also cut and roll large portions of the edges of leaves, as if using them for blankets. In the trade, these caterpillars are often referred to as the “canna leaf roller” and exterminated.

RELATED SPECIES: Also used as food plants are the taller-growing, smaller-flowered native species, Golden Garden Canna (C. flaccida), Louisiana Canna (C. glauca), and Indian-shot (C. flaccida).

Upright or occasionally sprawling, low-growing herb having a perennial root and one to several woody-based annual stems. Leaves thick, alternate, and usually deeply three-lobed. Flowers mostly orange-pink (rarely scarlet), five-petaled, and loosely arranged in open, branching clusters along stem.

CULTIVATION: This herb is best propagated by seeds. To collect seeds, clip mature seedpods and place in a paper bag. Allow them to dry in a warm area for several days until all moisture is gone and capsules are completely opened. Shake seeds loose or break capsules open, releasing the seeds. If insects are present in the seedpods, add an insect strip to the bag and close tightly for two weeks. Remove cleaned, treated seeds, and store in the refrigerator until spring. Sow seeds thinly in a prepared bed after all danger of frost is passed. Growth will be rapid, and seedlings may be transplanted to permanent places in the garden when they have three to four leaves.

Well suited to the drier areas of the garden, this plant actually grows best and is very long-lived in loose, extremely sandy soils. In tight soils it has a tendency to die out in three or four years. If planted in richer, moister soils than its normal habitat, it will rot at ground level and die.

Use Globe-mallow in scattered groups in beds or borders, along walkways, or in any type of naturalized situation. The unusual coloring of the blossoms is especially lovely when used with Leatherweed Croton (Croton pottsii), Prairie Verbena (Glandularia bipinnatifida), Western Peppergrass (Lepidium alyssoides), White-flowered Plumbago (Plumbago scandens), Trailing Lantana (Lantana montevidensis), or mistflowers (Conoclinium spp.).

USED BY: Common Checkered-Skipper (Pyrgus communis), Small Checkered-Skipper (P. scriptura).

NOTE: If any of these plants are desired for the garden, propagate by seeds or purchase at a nursery, as it is almost impossible to move established plants without breaking the unusually deep taproot.

RELATED SPECIES: Two varieties of this plant occur in the state: Scarlet Globe-mallow, var. coccinea; and Caliche Globe-mallow, var. elata—both are used as a larval food plant. Larvae of several species of butterflies use a very similar plant, Copper Globe-mallow (S. angustifolia), with narrow, unlobed leaves.

An upright to sprawling, rather coarse, usually much-branching annual. Leaves grayish-green, odoriferous. Flower heads large, yellow, terminal on long, slender stalks.

CULTIVATION: The main problem usually encountered with this plant is that it may be too easily grown. From Austin southward it often does not winter-kill or will freeze only in the upper portion. With the first warm days, new growth shoots forth and the plants may be flowering again by March or April. It also reseeds prolifically, so there is never a shortage of new plants. Seedlings may be transplanted anytime. Golden Crownbeard will survive under the most trying conditions, but for lush, full-flowering plants, give a light fertilizer (any kind will do) occasionally and a bit of extra watering during summer drought periods. Use these plants toward the back of the border—preferably in an out-of-the-way place. The foliage has a rather foul odor when disturbed, which makes for unpleasant working conditions in the garden. Also, even though butterflies nectar on this plant ravenously, they will temporarily leave the area when the plants have been disturbed.

Trimming from time to time may be necessary to keep plants in bounds, but this only makes for a sturdier, bushier plant with even more flowers. Keep as many of the spent flowers clipped as possible, as fruit production will slow down the forming of new flowers. If left undisturbed, Golden Crownbeard will eventually form large colonies for an absolutely spectacular autumn show. Since the plants are so robust, in a garden situation treat them almost as a shrub. They blend beautifully with Beebrush (Aloysia gratissima), Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii), Trailing Lantana (Lantana montevidensis), Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata), and bird-of-paradise (Caesalpinia spp.) or any of the tall, blue-flowered salvias (Salvia spp.). Front them with Tahoka Daisy (Machaeranthera tanacetifolia) or mistflowers (Conoclinium spp.), liatris (Liatris spp.), ironweeds (Vernonia spp.), or zinnias (Zinnia spp.).

NOTE: According to past studies, Golden Crownbeard is the preferred larval food choice of the Bordered Patch for rearing of the late summer and fall broods, with Annual Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) being first choice for the spring and early-summer broods. Giant Ragweed (Ambrosia trifida) is frequently used for both spring and summer broods. For best results in attracting this butterfly as a resident, provide a patch of both Golden Crownbeard and Annual Sunflower about the garden, and if present, leave some Giant Ragweed standing if in an out-of-the-way place. Golden Crownbeard is also an excellent nectar plant and is heavily used by many species of butterflies.

An upright or somewhat lax, slender annual, usually branching near base and from main stem; almost entire plant covered with short, stiff, stinging bristles. Leaves thin, opposite, long-stalked along lower portion of stem, sometimes purplish on lower surface. Flowers tiny, greenish-white, in clusters from axils of upper leaves; either male or female, but both on same plant.

CULTIVATION: This is not a plant offered by the nursery trade and not one to be planted for any kind of showiness. But a nettle is almost imperative if the Red Admiral (Vanessa atalanta rubria) is to be attracted as a resident. The best method of propagation is by digging young plants. Since this is one of the more “weedy” species and one most folks are trying to get rid of, anyone who has a colony growing will probably be quite happy to share a few—or a lot. When handling the plant, wear thick gloves and a long-sleeved shirt, for any contact between this plant and bare skin results in a most painful sting that lasts for hours.

Ideally, the Heart-leaf Stinging-nettle should be given a place of its own. A semi-shaded area beneath high-branched shrubbery or small trees, or in afternoon shade provided by a fence or building, would work quite well. If it has to be planted in a bed or border, place it where it can be left alone and where you will not have to work around it. It likes fairly rich, well-drained loamy soils but can tolerate sand or clay as long as shade and moisture are provided. To promote new growth and provide a longer period of usable larval food, trim back occasionally.

If growing conditions are suitable, Heart-leaf Stinging-nettle will reseed itself each year. If it begins to spread beyond its designated area, remove young plants as they come up. Thin to eight to twelve inches apart, if needed, for healthier plants with more useful foliage. The plants are easy to contain by planting in a twenty-gallon plastic pot or an old galvanized tub with the bottom removed. Sink the container to ground level before filling with soil and planting.

Basically upright, many-branched perennial with numerous arching or reclining branches, spreads from underground stems, forming colonies. Leaves along branchlets very numerous and crowded, short, stiff, very narrow, and heathlike. Flower heads of yellow disk flowers and white ray flowers; heads numerous and almost cover plant during flowering.

CULTIVATION: Heath Aster is a strong, hardy plant, well adapted to many soil types and amounts of drought or moisture. When planted in full sun, it makes an exceptional autumn-flowering plant. It performs beautifully under almost any garden condition but grows taller and lusher when given fairly good soil and a bit of moisture.

Heath Aster multiplies readily and is easy to propagate from root sprouts. When a colony of plants is found, there almost always are numerous young plants around the mother clump. These can be loosened by inserting a spade and gently lifting. Clip the young plant from the main plant, leaving a plentiful cluster of rootlets on the lifted plant.

To start plants from seeds, gather the dried seed heads after first frost. Plant the seeds immediately in prepared beds where the plants are to remain, or transplant them in late spring. Sow the seeds thickly, as the viability of aster seeds is never very good. If plants come up too close together, thin by transplanting some to other areas. Seedlings benefit from weekly applications of a weak liquid fertilizer solution until they become established and are growing well; usually, no further fertilizing is required. This aster can also be propagated by taking tip cuttings of young growth in early spring. Dip cuttings in a rooting hormone, and then insert in a mixture of equal parts peat and sand. Cover cuttings and container with plastic to maintain high humidity until rooted.

Old clumps of Heath Aster may decline in vigor if allowed to become excessively crowded. For healthier, more robust plants, dig and divide the clumps every three or four years.

Give Heath Aster plenty of room in the border, where the graceful “weeping” branches can droop and spread. When in flower, the plants appear as large masses of snowy-white, forming a wonderful backdrop for various purple and yellow fall-flowering species. Try Heath Aster backed with the purple-flowered New England Aster (S. novae-angliae) and fronted with the native yellow-flowered Huisache Daisy (Amblyolepis setigera), Woolly Paper-flower (Psilostrophe tagetina), or Hispid Wedelia (Wedelia acapulcensis var. hispida).

Upright, strong, many-stemmed perennial from a woody base; almost entire plant covered in shiny, velvety hairs. Leaves divided into four to eight pairs of small leaflets; when disturbed, foliage strongly and, to some, unpleasantly scented. Flowers golden-yellow, several borne in terminal clusters held well above foliage.

CULTIVATION: Lindheimer’s Senna produces an abundance of long pods filled with small “beans.” Gather these seeds when mature, and either plant in late fall or store in the refrigerator and plant the following spring. As this is a perennial, sow where it is to remain in the garden, especially if planting seeds in the fall. If planting in spring, plant either directly in the garden or in pots to be transferred to the garden later. Germination is best if seeds are planted immediately after harvesting and before the pods are totally dry.

When plants are up and showing true leaves, use a weak soluble fertilizer about every two weeks until plants are well established. Discontinue all fertilizing after plants are showing a lot of healthy growth. Lindheimer’s Senna does not need an overabundance of moisture, but an occasional deep soaking during July and August ensures good growth and nice flowering for the fall.

Because of its height and growth habit of producing several stems from the base, this plant is ideal at the back of a border or for an annual hedge. Frost kills the plants back somewhat, but new growth begins again in early spring. Trimming well-established plants back even further, to approximately six or eight inches above the ground in late fall after a frost, promotes even more growth the following year.

This plant may do well just outside its natural range and is certainly worth a try. If being transplanted to an entirely different habitat, gather some small limestone rocks along with the seeds. In the garden, place the plants among a grouping of the rocks and even work some large limestone gravel into the planting hole. This provides aeration to the roots along with needed nutrients.

USED BY: Sleepy Orange (Abaeis nicippe nicippe), Orange-barred Sulphur (Phoebis philea), Funereal Duskywing (Erynnis funeralis), Boisduval’s Yellow (Eurema boisduvaliana).

Small, low perennial herbs forming tight clumps deeply rooted from rhizomes. Leaves extremely variably shaped, long-stalked, deeply notched at base, lowest sometimes gently lobed near base, toothed along edges. Flowers purple, five-petaled, the lower petal with nectar-bearing spur at base, several extended on long, slender stems from rhizome. Earliest fruit a purple to brown-mottled, slightly elongated capsule on long stems, later fruit formed from nonopening (self-fertilizing) flowers on short stems near base of plant.

CULTIVATION: Collecting seeds for propagation of the Missouri Violet will take a bit of care. Plants in the wild should be watched closely; when pods first start showing above or near the top of leaves, gather the pods. Place in a closed paper bag, and once all pods have expelled their seeds, plant some seeds immediately, then again in fall and the following spring.

Once plants are up and well established (two to three years), each plant will have formed more or less a “clump” by extending the underground rhizome. For new plants these rhizomes can be cut apart, keeping a leaf node and roots to each section and replanting each section.

NOTE: The variety sororia, bearing whitish to grayish petals veined or streaked with blue or purple are known as the “Confederate” Violet. All violets serve as a much-needed nectar source for the early-appearing butterflies, especially the Falcate Orangetip (Anthocharis midea).

RELATED SPECIES: Almost any native smooth, large-leaved violet and most cultivated violets and pansies (Viola spp.) are used as larval food plants. The related native, tall-growing Green Nod-violet (Hybanthus verticillatus) is also used.

Upright, stout, usually several-branched biennial. Leaves mostly near the base, with each leaf divided into several broad segments. Flowers numerous, tiny, yellow, grouped into half-round, terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: The best way to obtain plants of Nuttall’s Prairie Parsley is by sowing seeds. Since this is a biennial, which means the plants come up one year and bloom the next, care must be taken not to destroy tiny seedlings while working the beds.

Seeds should be mature about a month after flowering, so keep a close watch on the plants to get good, healthy, mature seeds. Collect the entire head when seeds are light tan or yellowish. Thrash the head over an open paper bag or large tray, and then blow or pick as much debris out as possible. Store seeds in a dry, sealed, labeled container, and place in the refrigerator. The following spring, sow seeds in prepared beds where plants will remain or in individual pots for transplanting later. Seedlings should be up within a few days. Water occasionally with a weak soluble fertilizer. Transplant a potted plant to its permanent location when roots have filled the pot.

Once started, growth is usually rapid, forming large rosettes of leaves aboveground and sending the long taproot deep into the soil. Plants overwinter as rosettes and flower the following spring. If seeds are broadcast in a natural area instead of regular beds, make sure seeds are well covered with soil.

These plants grow in a good garden loam or even in clay but do not do well in extreme limestone, caliche, or acidic soils. A light application of fertilizer now and then makes for studier plants, as does a little extra water. Since plants may become lusher under garden conditions, they may need staking. These are sun-loving plants, so place them in full sun and give them plenty of room to breathe and spread out. Almost all of the foliage is near the ground, and even this may be disappearing at bloom time, so use this plant toward the middle or back of a border and plant something in front of it.

Nuttall’s Prairie Parsley readily reseeds itself, so once it is established in an area, there will be an abundance of new plants appearing in late summer. These seedlings may be moved while still very young; because the taproot is long, however, moving is not advisable if seedlings are more than two months old.

NOTE: In order for the butterfly to lay her eggs on the leaves, this plant needs to be in a fairly open area, so do not crowd the plants. Place them in small groups in order for there to be a large selection of leaves. Females usually deposit only one egg to a leaf but will leave two or three eggs per plant and use several plants in a group.

RELATED SPECIES: The similar Texas Prairie Parsley (Polytaenia texana) is common on Blackland and Coastal Prairies.

Upright, smooth to hairy, usually many-branched annual herb. Leaves composed of many small leaflets and appearing almost fernlike; foliage partially closes when touched. Flowers yellow, with five petals of unequal size, opening in short clusters along the branches; only one flower within each cluster opening at a time.

CULTIVATION: Partridge-pea is easily established in sandy or loamy soils anywhere in its range by simply scattering a few seeds. It is rather late to come up in the spring but grows rapidly once sprouted. This plant does not transplant well, so sow seeds where plants are desired. This may cause a bit of a problem if plants are to be in a border since the seeds need to be planted in the fall but the plants do not come up until late spring. The best way is to choose the desired site for the plants and scatter seeds generously in the bed in September. Mark the area, using metal tags or metal or wooden stakes. In the spring after the seeds have sprouted and plants are about four inches high, pull out or thin plants into the configuration desired. For a solid mass of mature plants (or a continuous border effect), leave the plants standing approximately two feet apart.

Under normal garden conditions of richer soil and more water than normal, these plants may easily reach their maximum size. They also grow larger and are much healthier if there is not severe competition with other plants, so give them plenty of space. If plants are still crowded later in the season, simply pull out a few. The remaining ones will spread out and remain lower and stockier instead of growing tall and becoming spindly.

This is an excellent plant to use in “natural” or untended areas, as well as in the border. Simply scatter a handful of seeds along a fence; around mulch, compost, or brush piles; next to the garage; or at the back of the lawn. Rake seeds in well, and gently tamp the surface.

Gathering ripe seeds of Partridge-pea may be a little tricky. Upon ripening, the long, flat pods split, with each side making a couple of twists and flinging the seeds for several feet. Since it does not take but a few seeds to get a start of this plant for the garden, gathering good seeds is worth a little extra effort. The best way is to enclose the almost mature pod in a little bag made of a square of cheesecloth or nylon net wrapped around the seedpod and closed at the base with a cord or band. Do not gather until pods have split and loosened the seeds. Another method is to gather seedpods after they have turned dark brown but before they have split. The ratio of plants obtained per seed gathered will not be nearly as great with this method since some seeds may still be immature, so be sure to plant plenty.

At the end of the growing season, if Partridge-pea has been allowed to mature its seeds, there should be an abundance of new plants the following year. However, due to the method of dispersal, the next season’s plants may not be exactly where you would like them. To be sure plants are in desired areas, it is best to plant them there.

Partridge-pea is quite attractive when used in small groups or as a somewhat continuous row in a long border. Some studies have shown that butterflies have a tendency to choose the more isolated plants for egg deposition, so plants should be tried in various situations in the garden to determine best usage.

USED BY: Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae), Clouded Sulphur (Colias philodice), Little Yellow (Pyrisitia lisa lisa), Sleepy Orange (Abaeis nicippe nicippe).

NOTE: This plant produces abundant “extra-floral nectar” along the stem and at leaf nodes and is much used by several species of butterflies.

Tender, weak-stemmed annual or biennial, stems slender and leaning or often many-branched at base and forming spreading clump. Leaves thin, flimsy, green to reddish or bronzy. Flowers tiny, inconspicuous, in small clusters.

CULTIVATION: One of the more “weedy” species, this is not a plant for prominence in the flower bed, but instead seek an out-of-the-way, semishaded location. Or it will make a most attractive early ground cover beneath shrubs.

To get it started around your garden, when wild stands are found, mark the location. Late in the flowering season, gently clip the top portion of plants and place them into paper bags. Do not clip all the plants, leaving some for natural propagation the following year.

In the garden spread the clipped plant portions into various sites. In most portions of its range, this plant will be up and growing in late fall and a couple of inches high by January. If things go well, there should be a good stand of plants. Remember that this plant will look like a “weed” when first coming up, so mark locations well. By June, plants of Pennsylvania Pellitory will have become withered and straggly. At this time, clip, shallowly bury plants, and fill space with summer annuals such as single zinnias (Zinnia spp.) and marigolds (Tagetes spp.) or Old-fashioned Petunia (Petunias axillaris). Pennsylvania Pellitory readily reseeds, so once they are started, the only thing necessary will be to start colonies where wanted.

NOTE: Although not long-lived, this plant is a good nonabrasive substitute for Heart-leaf Stinging-nettle and may be more welcome in the garden. The Red Admiral will begin laying eggs on these plants by late February or early March.

Low, sprawling or trailing perennial, usually forming solid mats with annual stems to six feet in length, stems bearing bristles but are not stiff and prickly. Leaves appearing ferny, composed of numerous tiny leaflets that close at night, during cloudy weather, or when touched. Flowers numerous and forming roundish ball, consisting mostly of long, pink-colored hairlike stamens conspicuously tipped with yellow pollen. Fruit a decorative flattened, jointed, oblong pod containing several seeds; when mature, pod breaks into sections.

CULTIVATION: Powderpuff is probably not a plant for the flower beds, as it can eventually cover quite a large area. Instead, use it as a ground cover for open, sunny slopes or along a driveway, meadow path, or pond edge. It will grow in just about any soil but will do best in loamy or sandy soils.

To propagate this plant, gather the flattened pods when they are brown and feel stiff. Let pods air-dry for several days. Remove seeds, and plant some immediately, some in fall, and some the following spring. Try soaking some seeds in hot water before planting. Not much is known about the propagation of this plant, so seed planting should be varied. Powderpuff wilts immediately after being cut, so tip-rooting is not generally satisfactory.

USED BY: Little Yellow (Pyrisitia lisa lisa), Mimosa Yellow (P. nise nelphe), Reakirt’s Blue (Echinargus isola).

NOTE: Once this plant is established, it requires little maintenance except maybe an occasional watering, depending on its location.

An erect to somewhat sprawling, many-branched annual; branches slender, wiry, and widely spreading. Leaves few, small, very narrow. Flowers pale pink to dark lavender, somewhat tubular, opening one or a few at a time from upper leaf axils.

CULTIVATION: Purple Agalinis is another of the beautiful natives that is not offered by nurseries or through catalogs. The plants are supposedly partially parasitic on the roots of grasses and perhaps other herbs, but they may need host plants only for the first weeks of growth. Little is actually known about the cultivation of this native in the home garden.

For new plants, gather seed capsules as soon as they start to become brownish in color and before they split and release the numerous tiny seeds inside. Finish air-drying in an open paper bag or on paper towels. Since so little is known about its growth requirements, stagger the planting of seeds to be on the safe side. Plant some immediately after they are completely dry, plant some in late fall, and save some seeds in cold storage for planting in early spring. Try stratifying some seeds by placing in layers in moist sand or between moist paper towels. Put them in a resealable plastic bag in the refrigerator for two or three weeks before planting. When sowing, try some in flower beds and others in a more naturalized area where native grass roots are available. If they are in pots, once the seedlings are up and showing leaves, do not try transplanting until their roots are well developed.

Withhold fertilizer until plants are well up and growing; then use sparingly if at all. Keep soil moist, especially during droughty summer months. Purple Agalinis grows in a wide diversity of soils and habitats so should do well in just about any good garden situation. Plant in full sun for best flowering.

Purple Agalinis will not be showy in the border until late summer or early fall, so plant with summer-flowering species, such as Brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), Kansas Liatris (Liatris pycnostachya), Tropical Milkweed (Asclepias curassavica), Pentas (Pentas lanceolata), and single zinnias (Zinnia spp.) or any of the low-growing lantanas (Lantana spp.) or verbenas (Verbena spp.). Some good companions for fall would be Blue Lobelia (Lobelia siphilitia) and Golden Crownbeard (Verbesina encelioides), as well as goldenrod (Solidago spp.), mistflower (Conoclinium spp.), any of the asters (Symphyotrichum spp.), or blue-colored salvias (Salvia spp.).

NOTE: Caterpillars feed during the day. They are extremely well camouflaged and make no effort to hide.

RELATED SPECIES: There are many species of Agalinis in the state, and the Common Buckeye uses almost all of them.

Low annual, biennial, or perennial with usually several stems from base and forming rounded mounds. Leaves alternate, densely silvery-woolly on lower surface, a brighter green and sparsely woolly on upper surface; fresh foliage fragrant when crushed. Disk flowers minute, whitish or yellowish, few, in small clusters, with several clusters grouped in short, spikelike arrangements in axils of upper leaves.

CULTIVATION: Purple Cudweed is not a showy plant with brilliant displays of flowers, but its green- and silver-colored foliage makes it a beautifully subtle companion to brighter-colored flowers such as Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Old-fashioned Petunia (Petunia axillaris), and various zinnias (Zinnia spp.). Purple Cudweed is a strong, hardy plant and one easy to grow from seeds. When seeds begin to ripen, the entire tip of the plant will look cottony or fluffy. Seeds should be ripe and ready for harvesting a few weeks after flowering. When ready to gather, grasp the entire fluffy mass on each stem and strip it gently but firmly from the plant. Otherwise, clip the entire seed-bearing portion of the plant. Place seeds and the fluff in a paper bag, and store in a cool, dry place until ready to plant.

Sow seeds in early fall either where they are to grow or in a bed for transplanting later. Plants will be ready for transplanting by late fall or can be moved as late as the end of January. Moving after this would not give the plants time to become fully established and would usually result in small, nonmounding plants. The healthiest and best-formed specimens are those planted in early fall where they are to stay; as the seeds come up, thin the plants to approximately a foot apart. Try saving some seeds and planting them around the first of May. Since larvae use the young, tender plant growth, the availability of young plants later in the season could possibly extend the length of breeding and rearing of butterflies in the garden.

Purple Cudweed is a drought-hardy plant that grows its finest in full sun in well-drained soils. If it is growing in ordinary garden soil, no fertilizer should be necessary. In fact, overfertilizing and overwatering will cause excessive growth, resulting in weak, sprawling, rather unattractive plants. When growing under such conditions, the plants will not be as readily used by female butterflies for egg deposition, if at all. Purple Cudweed will also grow in open, semishaded conditions, but again, plants generally will not produce as many stems, and clumps will not be as full or mound-forming.

Use Purple Cudweed toward the front of beds or borders where it can be readily found by searching females. Do not crowd the plants, but group three to five together, with several groupings scattered about the garden.

NOTE: The female American Lady lays eggs on younger foliage, with the larvae making silk “nests” in the upper leaf clusters so the plants appear “matted” at the top.

Low, bushy, somewhat reddish-stemmed perennial. Leaves slender, conspicuously silver on lower surface. Flowers small, white, forming feathery terminal clusters; male flowers appearing near tip of cluster, with female flowers below.

CULTIVATION: Silver-leaf Croton does not transplant well even under the most ideal circumstances. The best way to obtain plants is by seeds. Capsules of Silver-leaf Croton split open when ripe, flinging the seeds for several feet. Thus, to get a good supply of seeds, collect large, firm, but unopened capsules, and let them finish maturing in a paper bag. When gathered before fully ripe, some may not mature properly or become viable, so gather more seeds than the number of plants you need. Plant directly in the garden immediately. Keep the planting medium moist but not saturated, as excessive moisture will cause the seeds to rot.

Silver-leaf Croton has a very deep root system that needs plenty of aeration. Its permanent growing soil should be as sandy as possible. If your garden is not naturally sandy, then mix a large quantity of sand in the area where the plants are to grow. They do best when there is plenty of room to breathe, yet they like the company of their own kind, so always plant in groups of at least three to five and space the plants so they will be barely touching when mature. After they have become root-established, there is no need to fertilize and water unless the plants look wilted.

In most of its range, Silver-leaf Croton dies down to ground level each fall but puts out new growth in the spring. It readily reseeds if the soil and other growing factors are favorable, so there will be plenty of new plants each year. Unwanted plants will need to be removed to prevent overcrowding.

USED BY: Goatweed Leafwing (Anaea andria), Gray Hairstreak (Strymon melinus franki).

RELATED SPECIES: There are many species of Croton in the state, with almost all of them used as larval food plants.

Upright, unbranched, smooth perennial from short, thick tubers, the stems several and forming a clump. Leaves mostly basal, dark green, shiny, lobed, and long-stalked. Flowers white to rarely pink, forming loose, elongating, terminal cluster; plants usually start flowering when stems very short, with stems becoming longer as flowering season advances.

CULTIVATION: Spring Cress is another of the wildings not generally offered by nurseries, so seeds must be gathered from the wild. To collect, it is best to “bag” the long, slender pods with a finely woven material such as cheesecloth. The seeds are very small and will slip through most materials.

As this is not a commonly used garden plant, some experimenting may be necessary to obtain the best germination in your area. To start, choose a place in the garden with soils as closely resembling the native soil as possible. Immediately after collecting, plant some seeds where plants are to remain and then try planting some seeds in pots or flats of river sand or light loam. Keep soil moist but well drained at all times. Later, well-established clumps can be lifted and carefully separated for more plants.

These plants will need more moisture and shade than average garden plants so should be placed in a special bed along with Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium fistulosum), Pickerel Weed (Pontederia cordata), and the milkweeds—Red-flowered Milkweed (Asclepias rubra), Swamp Milkweed (A. incarnata), and Lance-leaf Milkweed (A. lanceolata)—where they can be given a soaker hose all their own. If placed in a humus-rich soil, no fertilizing should be needed other than yearly additions of well-rotted hardwood leaves.

Ideally, Spring Cress should be permanently placed at outer edges of deciduous shrubs or hardwood trees or along a woodland trail. To flower and produce the healthiest foliage, they like the early-spring light before trees fully leaf out, then later need the shade to protect the tender foliage until it withers away.

Upright or somewhat sprawling smooth annual; stems usually several, many-branched, and forming rounded clumps. Leaves very small, stiffly upright. Flowers few to numerous, forming open, terminal clusters, with one flower opening at a time in each cluster; petals golden-yellow or copper-colored, splashed with reddish near base.

CULTIVATION: Nice, healthy clumps of this plant appear to be “all flowers,” for the blossoms are quite large in comparison to the tiny leaves and delicate stems. Flowers of many species of Linum have a tendency to fall early in the day or shatter when touched or blown by the wind. The flowers of Stiff-stem Flax remain open and windproof until at least midafternoon, making this plant a good subject for the border as well as caterpillar food.

Stiff-stem Flax is not usually offered by nurseries, nor are the seeds readily available. Transplanting these plants is just about impossible, so to obtain a start, you must gather seeds. Gather seedpods as soon as they turn a light brown or beige color. Place in an open paper bag until the capsules are completely dry and easy to open. Plant seeds as soon as they are dry, scatter them about in the area where the plants are wanted, and rake seeds in thoroughly. Lightly tamp the soil, and sprinkle gently until the ground is thoroughly moistened. Otherwise, wait until a week of fall rains is forecast and plant the seeds before the rains begin. Seedlings should appear shortly, live through winter, and flower the following season.

Although tolerant of a fairly wide range of growing conditions, Stiff-stem Flax thrives in sandy, well-drained soils kept on the dry side. An occasional soaking during the summer, if conditions are dry, keeps them producing more flowers. Grow the plants in an open, sunny exposure, and they develop a tight, rounded habit. A lightly shaded setting will do, but clumps will be looser, more spreading, and with fewer flowers. Also, they will be less likely to attract butterflies for egg laying.

Stiff-stem Flax is most attractive when used toward the front of a bed or border along with Prairie Verbena (Glandularia bipinnatifida), Dwarf Crownbeard (Verbesina nana), Western Peppergrass (Lepidium alyssoides), and Woolly Paper-flower (Psilostrophe tagetina), as well as frogfruit (Phyla spp.).

Low, creeping or trailing, mat-forming perennial rooting at the nodes. Leaves long, slender, conspicuously toothed. Flowers numerous, tiny, white, forming a small terminal cluster, with flowers opening in a circle; new circles continuing to open during the season, with the flowering portion eventually becoming elongated.

CULTIVATION: Wherever this plant is encountered, there is usually a large patch with the creeping branches rooting at each node. The best method of obtaining plants is simply to clip one of the branches near the main root and gently loosen the roots along the branch. When replanting, in order to obtain the most coverage for the largest area, cut the branch between each node and plant each rooted section separately.

Texas Frogfruit is not particular about soils but does exceptionally well in rich garden loam with good drainage. A little extra moisture and occasional fertilizing make for faster and more luxurious growth.

Once the plants have spread and have sufficiently covered the ground, take branches to start plants in new areas. Although this plant spreads and multiplies rapidly and quite readily, it never becomes obnoxious or uncontrollable. Cutting back to the desired area with either clippers or a hoe is all that is needed to keep it in bounds.

Virtually disease resistant, Texas Frog-fruit is an ideal plant for edgings, as a ground cover, or as a replacement for problem spots in lawns. It can also be used in beds that have been mulched. The branches will not root as readily since they will not be in contact with the soil but will instead spread out into most attractive designs and patterns.

Texas Frogfruit grows in semishade but produces thicker, more compact foliage if planted in full sun. Also, butterflies more readily use plants in an open, sunny area for egg deposition.

USED BY: White Peacock (Anartia jatrophae luteipicta), Common Buckeye (Junonia coenia), Phaon Crescent (Phyciodes phaon phaon).

RELATED SPECIES: Several species of frog-fruit are found in the state. All of them are used as a larval food source and are usually sought for the plentiful nectar produced.

Upright, bristly-spiny biennial or perennial, with usually only one many-branched stem. Leaves long, slender, covered with fine, woolly hairs on lower surface and appearing silver—a beautiful contrast to the bright green, smooth upper surface. Flowers numerous, small, pink to rose-purple, clustered in showy, terminal, somewhat rounded heads.

CULTIVATION: This is an easy plant to grow from seeds. Gather seeds when fully ripe and “fluffed up” on the plant. Sow immediately or at least by early September. Plants will come up in the fall and form rosettes that live over the winter. Texas Thistle readily reseeds, so a good colony of plants form the following year. Remove unwanted plants as soon as they come up in the fall. In flower beds, thin the plants, leaving from two to three feet between each plant for sufficient growing space. A small colony is a better attractant than solitary plants scattered through a border or bed.

Plant in full sun, and keep somewhat on the dry side. They become scraggly and have a tendency to fall down, with the lower foliage developing mildew or turning brown if plants are placed in shade or receive too much moisture. Plant toward the middle or back of the border or away from foot traffic, as the plants are rather prickly. Often these plants are not impressive in the wild, but under garden conditions of rich soil and adequate moisture, they become magnificent specimens. They are prolific bloomers, and the season can be lengthened by keeping faded blossoms trimmed off. Cut the long flower stalk just above the leaf node below the flower, and new flowering stalks will form. This trimming back to the node keeps the plant lower and bushier and prevents an invasion of plants the following season.

PARTS EATEN: Foliage. The caterpillars also make a shelter of several leaves, gathering them together with strands of silk.

NOTE: Texas Thistle (as are most other thistles) is an excellent nectar source for many species of butterflies, especially Swallowtails (family Papilionidae).

Upright, slender, delicate, smooth annual or biennial; stems usually solitary, almost hairlike, rising from small, flat rosette of short, trailing, sterile branches at base; plants usually forming colonies. Leaves small, narrow, few, and scattered along stem and basal branches. Flowers numerous, bluish-violet, fragrant, forming showy terminal clusters; lower lip of flower ending in conspicuously curved spur.

CULTIVATION: Texas Toadflax is not offered by nurseries or seed catalogs, so propagation is best done by gathering seeds from the wild. As seedpods are often mature at the base of a cluster while flowers are still opening in the top portion, several “gatherings” may be necessary. The clusters can simply be held over a paper bag and gently tapped or shaken to release the shiny, black seeds.

If plants are wanted in a space that is relatively undisturbed during the summer season, then plant seeds immediately after gathering. Otherwise, wait until late summer, and then scatter the seeds where they are wanted, barely covering with a very thin layer of sand. Sprinkle gently but thoroughly, and keep sand barely moist until plants are up and well established.

If using in a “wild” or untended situation, scratch various bare spots with a hand digger, scatter the seeds, cover very thinly with soil, and pack down lightly. Sprinkle gently but thoroughly if possible. Once established, the plants readily self-sow.

Texas Toadflax prefers soils on the drier, sandier side but will tolerate heavier soils if dry. Since this is one of the earliest-flowering plants, usually spring rains provide all the moisture required. It does not require nor will it tolerate heavy fertilizing.

Texas Toadflax is not a long-lasting plant, and once the last seedpods have matured, the tiny basal foliage yellows and shrivels away, leaving space for summer annuals.

Since these plants are so delicate, they are not of great use as “show” flowers in a border and are best used in an open, out-of-the-way space. Also, this is a plant to definitely use in masses. One butterfly caterpillar will consume several plants during its lifetime, so many plants will be needed for a female to be enticed to lay eggs. In a garden situation, try to use Texas Toadflax along open fences, against buildings, at front edges of open borders, or thickly scattered throughout a border or, ideally, in open, sparsely vegetated meadowlike situations.

PARTS EATEN: Mainly foliage, sometimes buds or young fruits. Often the entire young plant will be consumed.

RELATED SPECIES: A similar but smaller-flowered species, Old-field Toadflax (N. canadensis), is also readily used as a larval food plant.

Upright to semisprawling plant from woody base; stem usually solitary or may be several and clump-forming as plant ages. Leaves an attractive dark green. Flowers lavender to purple, trumpet-shaped, several forming a showy terminal cluster, with few to several clusters per plant; open about sunrise, then fall from plant in afternoon heat.

CULTIVATION: Depending upon which portion of this plant’s range it is in, it may be a deciduous perennial or an evergreen. In the northern part of its range, it dies back to the ground each year, while in the Rio Grande Valley area, it may remain green and flowering all year if the winter is mild. Violet Ruellia grows in most types of soil except dry, sandy ones, but soil supplemented with organic matter promotes larger, more floriferous specimens.

To start plants, collect dried seed capsules as soon as they become a pale to medium brown and before they begin to split open. Sow in prepared areas of the garden immediately. Germination is slow, and seedlings will probably not show until the following spring. Once up, the seedlings are fast growing. Weekly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer enhance their growth.

Some flowering can be expected the first year, but more abundant flowering comes from fully mature plants of the second season. Give mature plants adequate moisture and light dressings of fertilizer twice a year for really spectacular flowering. Clip off spent blossoms until you want the seeds to set, usually in late summer or early fall.

An open, barely semishaded setting is recommended for Violet Ruellia, such as along woodland edges or in borders beneath taller plants. Violet Ruellia is especially lovely when combined with Cherry Sage (Salvia greggii), Flame Acanthus (Anisacanthus quadrifidus var. wrightii), White-flowered Plumbago (Plumbago scandens), or Barbados Cherry (Malpighia glabra).

USED BY: Common Buckeye (Junonia coenia), Tropical Buckeye (J. evarete), Malachite (Siproeta stelenes biplagiata), Banded Peacock (Anartia fatima), White Peacock (A. jatrophae luteipicta), Texan Crescent (Anthanassa texana).

Low, upright, or somewhat sprawling perennial, woody at the base, usually with several stems, and forming large, rounded clump. Leaves in basal area long, divided or lobed, being shorter and narrow along stem. Flowers numerous, white, in elongating terminal racemes, making plants appear as mounds of snow.

CULTIVATION: Plants of Western Peppergrass do not transplant well except in a very young stage, and then a large amount of soil should be taken with the roots. For a large number of plants, it is best to sow seeds in late fall where plants are wanted and then thin to desired stands. This plant is not particularly soil selective, but soil must be very well drained and plants kept on the dry side after they are up and growing well. Plant in full sun, as flowering will be drastically reduced in shade and plants will become leggy and sprawl excessively.

Because of the beautiful mounding effect when these plants are grown in full sun, groupings of five or seven plants throughout the beds or as a continual irregular border make a most dramatic effect. Or they can be used as a higher-than-average edging in front of taller flowering perennials and shrubs, such as Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) and Trailing Lantana (Lantana montevidensis). Shear off spent flowers for continual bloom. Also, as flowers begin to fade, cut some plants back about one-half to one-third to induce new growth, providing plenty of tender larval food. Plants remain green throughout the winter if cut back after the first frost.

Low, creeping, shallow-rooted perennial forming large mats or patches. Leaves long-stalked, numerous, and parted into three separate leaflets. Flowers numerous, small, pale pink or white, tightly congested into long-stalked terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: White Clover is not a difficult plant to get started, and one some folks would like to get rid of. In some areas it is an unwanted “weed” in the lawn or garden, but when growing along roadsides and in abandoned areas, it is quite lovely. Plants of White Clover start easily from seeds. Gather the seed heads after they have turned brown, and place them in an open paper bag for a few days until completely dry. Shake the seeds loose, and store in the refrigerator until spring.

Plants are also easy to obtain from a rooted branch from a mature plant. Gently dig the roots loose at each node along the branch, and then clip it loose from the mother plant. When replanting in the garden, clip the branch between each node and plant each rooted section. Even if no roots are showing at the node, make a shallow depression, lay the branch in the depression, and cover it with soil. It usually quickly roots and forms a new plant.

White Clover is best adapted to loamy soils a little on the heavy side with clays and silt. However, do not let the soil type be detrimental in trying this one, for it grows on caliche, limestone, sand, or salt. What it does like is a little extra moisture and good drainage. Occasional fertilizing through the growing season promotes lusher vegetation.

Once established, White Clover readily reseeds and needs very little care. To keep it within desired bounds, simply hoe back each spring. In the flower garden it should not become obnoxious or uncontrollable. White Clover can be most effective in problem areas where grass or other ground covers do not grow well. Use it in low areas where moisture has a tendency to stand, on badly eroding slopes, or in just about any area where nothing else grows. This plant dies out during the summer but returns with cooler fall weather and in some areas remains green all winter.

USED BY: Clouded Sulphur (Colias philodice), Orange Sulphur (C. eurytheme), Southern Dogface (Zerene cesonia), Eastern Tailed-Blue (Cupido comyntas texana), Reakirt’s Blue (Echinargus isola), Barred Yellow (Eurema daira), Gray Hairstreak (Strymon melinus franki), Northern Cloudywing (Thorybes pylades), and probably others.

Low, trailing, white-woolly, widely branching perennial forming large mats, the branches to four feet or more long, rooting at nodes. Leaves small, almost lost in the white hairs covering plant. Flowers small, usually solitary, bluish to dark purple.

CULTIVATION: Seeds of Woolly Stemodia are very small, black, and contained in a two-part capsule. Ripened capsules can be gathered and the seeds extracted and air-dried for several days before planting. As little is known about propagating this plant by seeds, try planting at various times, both in indoor pots and outside where plants are wanted.

Clipped, rooted sections can be taken from established plants. Native plant nurseries often offer this plant and are by far the best possible source.

NOTE: In the garden, this plant makes a beautiful ground cover beneath other plants and is especially impressive when allowed to trail over a rock edging or when used between the stones in a dirt-laid patio.

Upright, robust, mostly smooth, shrublike perennial with many stems from base and forming large clump. Leaves opposite, the lower ones usually deeply cut with upper ones gradually becoming smaller, irregularly alternate and mostly unlobed or cut. Flowers large, showy, tubular, yellow, forming slender terminal spikes, with few flowers opening at a time.

CULTIVATION: False Foxglove is noted for being semiparasitic on the roots of various species of trees from the white oak group (family Fagaceae) but occasionally shrub species from the Heath Family (Ericaceae) will be used. Obtaining a start of these plants may require a little more work than for some others but will be well worth the effort. Not only is this a preferred late-season food plant for the Common Buckeye (Junonia coenia) but it also makes a large, beautiful shrubby plant in one season. Usually it blooms in early summer, but with first freezes it withers away, leaving sunny winter openings for other plants to obtain needed light and moisture.

This is definitely not a plant found in nurseries or catalogs. Nor can it ever be transplanted. Do not even think about it. It will have to be started from seeds, and several tries may be necessary before success is achieved. It is best to drive through the countryside in early summer and find and mark some flowering plants. Before the large seedpods start ripening, select some pods, tie small bags of nylon net over the pods, and wait until the pods begin to split open. At this time, cut only completely ripened pods from the spike, leaving others to complete ripening.

As the viability of seed and the existence of appropriate microbes in the soil for “sprouting” will be so uncertain, it would be best to plant some seeds immediately after gathering, then make more plantings spaced two weeks apart. Save some seeds over the winter in paper bags in a cool, dark place and some in paper bags in the refrigerator. Plant these in the spring after all chance of a freeze is past. With every planting place seeds near a thriving oak tree in the white oak group (Quercus spp.) or a species of Vaccinium, such as Huckleberry (V. arboreum), Highbush Blueberry (V. corymbosum), or Deerberry (V. stamineum).

Once started and thriving well, the plants continue to form ever-larger clumps and become truly shrublike for a season. At this time, make a flower bed around them, instead of trying to get them started in a flower bed—usually an impossible task.

Do not use commercial fertilizer with these plants. Instead, use dry to moist well-drained sandy soils and enrich only with a sparse layering of leaf mulch in the fall. After plants are established and growing well, Yellow False Foxglove is spectacular in combination with Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum incanum), various blue-flowered salvias (Salvia spp.), any of the monardas (Monarda spp.), and mistflower (Conoclinium spp.). In the wild they are often found in combination with another semiparasitic member of the same family, agalinis (Agalinis spp.).

NOTE: In late autumn after seeds have fallen, the empty seedpods may be gathered to be used in dried floral arrangements.

Tall, robust perennial grass usually forming small to large colonies or stands. Leaves flat, long, and very slender, often somewhat bluish-green. Flowers not very showy; long, terminal, golden to tawny-colored panicles of ripening seeds in late summer through late fall most striking.

CULTIVATION: Gather the seeds of Yellow Prairie Grass in early fall or before frost. Separate seeds by working them between your fingers. Plant some of the seeds immediately; then plant more in early spring. These can simply be broadcast and left on top of the ground, or for best results, scratch the soil and barely cover seeds. When possible, planting just before a rain is ideal. If a small patch is wanted, lay the entire seed spike on the ground, cover, and water in thoroughly.

Once plants are well established, a “clump” or portion of the colony can be dug and divided. Dig deep when transplanting because prairie grasses form deep, extensive root systems. Make sure the new holes are deep enough to accommodate the roots and that roots are not bent but pointing straight downward in the hole. This grass not only readily self-seeds but naturally spreads occasionally by rhizomes, so be careful when lifting plants.

NOTE: Yellow Prairie Grass is one of the four dominant grasses found in well-established prairies and is adapted to fire. Since the use of fire will probably not be an option for smaller properties, trim or mow back every third year to ensure better clumping and deeper root growth.

The following list includes more larval food plants than shown and described in the text in order to broaden the scope of exciting possibilities for attracting butterflies to the garden. Plants have been placed on each list within the region(s) where the butterflies that use them usually occur for breeding, not necessarily where the plants naturally occur within the state. Even though a plant may grow throughout the state, there is no need to plant it in the garden as a larval food source if the butterfly that uses it does not breed there.

As this is a food plant list and not a complete listing of the butterflies that occur in the state, many species of butterflies that may be found in Texas are not given because their food plants are unknown or because the literature researched gave only the plant genus and no species.

Sometimes a plant listed, such as the elms, oaks, ashes, and some of the grasses, will already be present in a particular habitat. Such plants are listed not to be considered first for planting but as ones not to destroy if they already exist in or around the garden. In some instances, the butterflies that use such plants require a number of plants for breeding, and one or two plants in the garden would not be adequate. If the plants are available in sufficient numbers nearby to support a colony, you will most likely get the butterflies around the nectar plants in your garden.

As with the nectar and larval food plants shown and described elsewhere, the plant species are placed here in separate categories of trees, shrubs, vines, and herbs and listed in alphabetical order by common name. In this list, they have been further separated into native and nonnative plants. Within the listing, common and scientific names of the plant are given, followed by the region(s) in which both the plant and butterfly that uses it can be found.