Butterfly Gardening for Texas

Nectar and the plants that produce it are the material that forms the very foundation of butterfly attracting. A knowledge of good nectar-producing plants is most important, and a few familiar plants known to be good nectar producers are shown and described here.

See chapter 8 for general explanations of the categories used in each profile. In this chapter, under “Range,” numbers in parentheses indicate the region or regions where the plant does not naturally occur but can be grown, although it may be short-lived due to various climatic factors. The category “Related species” is occasionally added when there are other species that may be of interest to the gardener.

In the list of nectar plants following the descriptions, notice that some of the most common plants, such as the Showy Evening Primrose (Oenothera speciosa), Mexican-hat (Ratibida columnifera), and Black-foot Daisy (Melampodium leucanthum), along with such cultivars as double zinnias (Zinnia spp.) and ruffled petunias (Petunia spp.), are not included. These plants, although they seem to have the characteristics a butterfly wants, evidently lack the thing most important—plentiful nectar. Remember that butterflies have to use what is there. So look around before gathering seeds or purchasing plants—even though butterflies may be nectaring on a plant (or trying to), it may not be a preferred nectar source. However, if several other plants are also in flower and butterflies are still coming repeatedly to a particular species or if several species of butterflies are coming to the plant, the plant is most likely a good nectar producer and preferred choice.

Spreading, round-topped tree often obtaining only large shrub size. Leaves large, thick, fuzzy, alternate along stout branches. Flowers showy, yellow-throated white, numerous, in large, loose clusters at tips of branches.

CULTIVATION: Propagation by seeds of this plant is usually uncertain and often difficult. Planting seeds may be tried by collecting after they are fully mature, usually from July through September. If some can be found on the ground with the pulpy flesh naturally disintegrated, so much the better. Collect these to try; such seeds sprout much more readily than freshly cleaned seeds. If seeds are fresh, remove the fleshy pulp, air-dry, and then store in a cool, dry area. However seeds are cleaned, sprouting will vary from year to year and from site to site from where collected. However, once germinated, the seedlings are fast growing, often reaching eight to ten feet in two years.

Propagating plants from soft or semihardwood cuttings taken in summer, dipped in rooting hormone powder, and placed in a moist rooting medium is usually successful. Anacahuita is offered by most nurseries in its growing range, which may be the best and most assured method of obtaining this plant.

Not too demanding about permanent planting soils, this tree survives in sand, loam, clay, or caliche and in the wild is found along stream banks, on gravelly slopes, or in sandy thickets. What it does demand is good drainage. Occasionally water young plants the first year or two, and then under ordinary circumstances, they can make it on their own.

NOTE: The white to yellow-green pulp within the fruit is edible and sweet but if consumed in excessive amounts causes dizziness and intoxication.

Deciduous, long-lived, large shrub or small tree usually with more than one trunk from the base and appearing broad, spreading, or loose in general outline. Leaves divided fan-like into three to seven narrow leaflets, dark green on upper surface, a cool gray beneath, both twigs and leaves strongly but pleasantly aromatic when crushed. Flowers numerous, small, lilac to lavender, fragrant, forming slender spikes terminally and from upper leaf axils.

CULTIVATION: Although not native, Chaste Tree is widely planted and in many regions has escaped and may be found in various “wild” situations. It may even reseed under such situations but never becomes a problem.

Chaste Tree tolerates a wide variety of soils but requires plenty of summer heat for the most richly colored and profuse bloom, so plant this one in an open spot in full sun. Give it a well-drained site with rather poor soil, and do not overwater. Fertilizing sparingly in the spring with a high-phosphorus fertilizer increases bloom production. Extra-rich soil and too much moisture result in lush foliage but only a few pale-colored flowers low in nectar. New plants may be started from tip cuttings or easily obtained from nurseries or catalogs.

Chaste Tree is late to put out foliage in the spring and in some areas may be killed to ground level during extremely cold winters. Severe pruning only enhances its shape; if cut to within six inches of the ground in late winter or early spring, it quickly resprouts and forms new blossoming stems. New stems easily attain three to five feet the first year before flowering. In this respect Chaste Tree is quite similar to Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii) and can be treated more as an herbaceous perennial. In this form it makes a beautiful hedge or “living fence.” It also works well in borders when kept small, and the lower branches offer closer butterfly viewing. If not pruned and in areas where it does not freeze back each year, it may obtain small tree size. The lower branches can be trimmed into a tree form to make a lovely specimen planting. When trimmed this way, Chaste Tree is especially nice used for shade in a small yard.

NOTE: A large, healthy potted plant from a nursery should flower the first or second year. In making a selection, start with only one or two plants to be sure they are good nectar producers. Blue- or purple-flowered plants will probably attract more butterflies than white- or pink-flowered ones.

Native shrub or small deciduous tree, usually with several trunks from the base. Leaves long, slender, and willowlike. Flowers large, orchidlike, sweetly fragrant, loosely clustered in large, terminal panicles; do not last long but appear after each rain. Flowers replaced by long, slender seedpods, which remain dangling from branches and aid in identifying this tree long after flowers are gone.

CULTIVATION: Desert Willow can be grown from seeds, cuttings, or nursery transplants. If starting from seeds, gather the seedpods as soon as they are dry and brown-colored. Remove seeds from pods and, when completely dry, store in the refrigerator until spring. Before planting, soak the seeds in water for a few hours. Semihardwood cuttings can be taken in late summer and should root in two or three weeks. Transplant the rooted cuttings to the garden in late fall, or carry over until spring.

Whether from seeds or cuttings, plants grow rapidly and will produce flowers even when very young. This is another shrub that tolerates drought conditions but responds to an occasional watering and a light application of fertilizer. Planted in full sun, Desert Willow tolerates various soils but prefers limestone soils. It demands good drainage. In the western and northern portions of its range, it may occasionally be broken or damaged by snow or wind, so in these areas it is best to use it in protected places, such as the south side of buildings, fences, or taller-growing trees or shrubs.

With its open, somewhat sprawling growth habit, Desert Willow is at its best when used at the end of a border or as a specimen planting. In areas where it is not bothered by freezing, trim the lower branches to eventually form an airy, graceful tree shape. If a more shrubby shape is desired, prune back the plant severely; it actually produces more flowers when so treated.

Hardy to semihardy, tropical-appearing deciduous tree with drooping, slender branches. Leaves large, twice divided into numerous tiny leaflets and appearing fernlike, folding together at night. Flowers delicate, fragrant, fluffy pink, in large clusters at tips of branches. Leaves and flower clusters occur on upper sides of branches, giving this tree an exotic look.

CULTIVATION: This native of Asia is not particularly choosy about soils but does like adequate moisture. An addition of iron to regular feeding produces more and darker-colored flowers. It is at its very best in areas of high summer heat and humidity, so it usually blooms more profusely in its more southern range. It is one of the few cultivated trees that can tolerate both drought and air pollution quite well.

Flowering Mimosa is easily started from seeds and grows very fast, often flowering the second year. It also reseeds easily and can often be seen growing as escapes along roadsides or around trash dumps where trimmed limbs and branches have been discarded. Young saplings may be dug either in the spring or fall for transplanting in the home garden, or potted plants are usually available at local nurseries.

Branches of Flowering Mimosa have a tendency to droop somewhat, so trim off lower limbs at the trunk when planted near a traffic area. The open branching and lacy leaves of this tree allow filtered sunlight through and do not kill lawn grasses as most shade trees do. If the branches are trimmed high, this can be used as a specimen tree in a bed with low shrubs and perennials planted beneath. Unfortunately, Flowering Mimosa is relatively short-lived and the wood is brittle; sometimes large limbs are lost to storms or high winds. It is also often attacked by a borer that kills the tree if not treated.

Limbs of Flowering Mimosa are sometimes cut about halfway back, but this totally destroys the natural beauty of this tree and also makes it more susceptible to attack by insects and fungus diseases. If Flowering Mimosa is never trimmed, growth of the branches naturally slows down, and the tree forms an absolutely beautiful sight with the branches arching almost to the ground and smothered in feathery pink blossoms. The unique, rather flat-topped or gently mounded shape of its branches makes a perfect canopy for a patio. The undulating form and almost solid mat of flowers held above the foliage make this tree especially nice when viewed from a second-story window, balcony, or deck.

NOTE: When Flowering Mimosa starts opening its fragrant pink flowers in early spring, butterflies flock to its readily available nectar and continue to work the tree throughout the day. The nectar is so plentiful at times that even hummingbirds (family Trochilidae) and orchard orioles (Icterus spurius) can be seen dipping their beaks into the flowers. In late afternoon the fragrance becomes stronger, making this a desirable tree for placing near a porch or patio.

Due to its ability to readily reseed, in some areas this tree is considered an invasive species. But in the home garden, unwanted plants are easily removed when small by simply pulling or clipping at ground level.

Widely spreading, usually multitrunked small tree rounded in top portion, prolifically covered with clusters of delicate, spidery flowers. Leaves dull green, deciduous or semievergreen, alternate, oddly shaped, doubly pointed at tip, appearing as if two leaves have grown together. Flowers numerous, white-colored, five-petaled, forming clusters at tips of slender branches, with the stamens and pistil extending far beyond the petals, giving the flowers an airy, exotic appearance.

CULTIVATION: Although this is classified as a tree and does reach tree height in the southernmost portion of its range, it is easily raised from seeds, which is the easiest method of obtaining plants. The one to four smooth, flattened, brown seeds are contained in a flattened pod. When the pod is completely dry, it twists open, quickly dispersing the seeds. To obtain these seeds, before pods are totally dry, cover them with netting or cheesecloth, allowing the pod to dry completely on the plant. When the pod has opened, remove seeds, cleaning all pod debris from seeds. Place seeds in a wet paper towel, place the towel in a plastic bag, but do not seal all the way. Keep the towel moist until seeds sprout. Plant immediately upon sprouting. Or dried seeds can be stored in a sealed container for later planting. If seeds are stored, acid scarification may be necessary to break dormancy.

Mexican Orchid Tree can withstand temperatures as low as ten degrees but likes all the protection it can get. Plant it on the south side of a building or in the most protected place possible by other trees or shrubs, preferably evergreen. Plant in full sun, morning sun, or dappled shade. It demands good drainage. Small, occasional applications of organic fertilizer the first year or two are beneficial; then only occasional waterings during extreme dryness will be necessary. Mulch lightly during winter. Usually the tree will grow four or five feet and bloom the first or second year.

If plants are frozen back to the ground, they will almost always resprout; and if the roots are well established and healthy, the trees will bloom the first year.

If desired, Mexican Orchid Tree can be pruned to retain a more shrublike habit or trimmed to a single-trunked tree.

Mexican Orchid Tree is now being used in landscaping in the more eastern regions of Houston and Beaumont. It does well as far north as Austin. Use it with Drummond’s Wax-mallow (Malvaviscus drummondii), Mexican Oregano (Poliomintha longiflora), Shrimp Plant (Justicia brandegeana), Cigar Plant (Cuphea micropetala), Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia), Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata), the vines Queen’s Wreath (Antigon leptopus) and Mexican Flame Vine (Pseudogynoxys chenopodioides), and various lantanas (Lantana spp.).

NOTE: In the Rio Grande Valley area, the Mexican Orchid Tree is the larval food plant of the Cassius Blue (Leptotes cassius cassidula), Gold-spotted Aguna (Aguna asander), and Tailed Aguna (A. metophis).

Large, beautifully shaped, single-trunked, deciduous tree with spreading branches. Bark distinctively banded, furrowed, and peeling. Leaves thick, prominently veined, becoming yellow in fall. Flowers, white, sweetly fragrant, covering tree in clusters before leaves unfold in spring. Fruit a delicious plum, covered with powdery “bloom,” changing from greenish-yellow to mauve to purplish as it ripens in fall.

CULTIVATION: Nice-sized plants of Mexican Plum can be purchased from native plant dealers or, if time to blooming is not a factor, may be started from seeds or cuttings. Collect the plums when ripe, and clean all pulp from the seeds by cutting or scraping, then by washing. Fill a bucket with one gallon of warm water, mix in two packets of yeast and two tablespoons of sugar, add seeds, and let soak three or four weeks. Rinse seeds, and plant where tree is to remain. Mark well, as germination will not take place until spring.

Six- to eight-inch semihardwood tip cuttings can be taken in the summer. Strip off lower leaves, dip in rooting medium, place in a sand/perlite mixture, and keep under occasional mist until well rooted.

In a planting, Mexican Plum is drought resistant but will show faster growth with frequent waterings. It can be found in almost solid limestone rock to rich bottomland soils but does require good drainage. This is a tough tree and can tolerate full sun but does its best in dappled shade, making an excellent understory tree.

NOTE: Mexican Plum is one of the loveliest of spring-flowering trees and is especially outstanding when growing close to Texas Redbud (Cercis canadensis var. texensis) and Mexican Buckeye (Ungnadia speciosa) in the west or Eastern Redbud (C. c. var. canadensis) and the vines Carolina Jasmine (Gelsimium sempervirens) and wisteria (Wisteria spp.) in the eastern portion of the state. The nectar-rich flowers attract various insects, especially bees and numerous species of butterflies. It is occasionally used as a larval food source for the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio glaucus) and the Viceroy (Limenitis archippus). The attractive fruit is edible and can be made into delicious jams and jellies.

Most impressive, fast-growing, dense, deciduous shrub. Leaves ferny, dark green, twice divided into numerous leaflets. Flowers interestingly shaped, numerous, in large terminal clusters; long, red stamens protruding conspicuously, curving upward from base of petals. Foliage and flowers rather unpleasantly scented. Fruit an elongated, flattened pod containing numerous seeds.

CULTIVATION: An almost perfect shrub for the garden, Barbados Bird-of-Paradise should be one of the first considered for butterfly plantings. A native of the West Indies, it has long been in cultivation, and the new forms are more frequently being used in landscaping. It is a very common plant in South Texas and Mexico.

Easy to grow and hardy, it is now being offered by most nurseries that sell native plants. It is also easy to propagate from seeds. Seeds are usually produced in abundance, with pods maturing in the lower portion of the raceme as flowers continue to open at the tip. Fully mature seeds can be planted either in fall or spring. With a sharp knife, nick the seeds, then soak several hours or overnight in warm water. If seeds are planted indoors in early spring and seedlings transplanted to the garden after the last frost, it would not be unusual to have flowers by fall. Place young plants in full sun in a well-drained location, keeping the soil moist until roots are well established. Add a small amount of fertilizer containing phosphorus at planting time, then sparingly a couple of times during the growing season for added growth and bloom. Many of the seeds that fall to the ground will germinate, and there will usually be a number of young seedlings around the mother plant. By the second year plants should produce a wealth of exotic blooms, with flowering increasing each year.

In the more northern portion of its range, reduce watering toward the end of the flowering season. After the first frost, trim stems back to three or four inches from the ground and cover with loose mulch of dried leaves, straw, or hay. In spring, do not water until the leaf buds begin to swell; then deeply soak plants every two weeks to once a month, depending on natural rainfall.

Barbados Bird-of-Paradise is very hardy and not generally bothered by insects or diseases. Its worst enemy is too much moisture or shade, which can cause it to become weak and spindly and with few or no flowers. Under such adverse conditions, it may also become infested with red spider mites. The best solution is to move the plant to an open, sunny, well-drained spot in the garden.

NOTE: This plant readily reseeds, and seedlings may require frequent removal. For stability, this plant develops large roots, so do not plant near a patio, walkways, or foundations of buildings.

RELATED SPECIES: The species C. pulcherrima has yellow flowers blotched in red. There are now several forms to be found in the trade; the red-flowered form commonly known as Red Bird-of-Paradise is shown here. Mexican Bird-of-Paradise (C. mexicana) is a shrub with strongly fragrant yellow and red flowers cultivated in the Lower Rio Grande Valley. Desert Bird-of-Paradise (C. gilliesii) is cultivated and occasionally escapes to be found in the wild. The latter two start flowering when young shrubs, and both can easily be raised from seeds.

Slender, much-branched, usually deciduous shrub, the branches gray, almost square and noticeably brittle. Leaves small, opposite, wonderfully aromatic when touched, often with a bundle of smaller ones in the axils. Flowers fragrant, widely spaced, yellow-throated white, borne from axils; racemes several and forming bouquetlike panicles.

CULTIVATION: This plant is easily started from either seeds or cuttings. Within a few years Beebrush usually forms a nice colony or a small thicket if left unattended. New, unwanted plants can easily be uprooted. In the wild state the shrubs may become a little unruly, but this should present no problem in the garden. If they begin to get out of bounds, simply cut them to the ground in late winter, and in the spring, again cut the resprouted growth back to what is desired. The remaining plants will respond by putting out a multitude of new stems and growing to a nice shrub size the first year. Trimming periodically produces best flowering.

Plant in full sun and poor soil, keep it on the dry side, and watch the profusion of flowers that appear after each rain. This is a shrub to use in the driest and poorest soil of the garden; if the soil is gravelly or rocky, the plants will be even happier.

NOTE: Flowers of Beebrush have a strong vanilla-like fragrance and are a great attraction to many species of butterflies. Bees also find it highly desirable, and in its natural range it is considered one of the best nectar plants for the production of honey.

Deciduous or semievergreen, widely spreading shrub with slender, arching branches. Leaves thick, felty, dull green on upper surface, dull silvery beneath. Flowers numerous, small, fragrant, densely compacted into large, thick, terminal, often drooping racemes.

CULTIVATION: A native of China, Butterfly Bush is an exceptionally hardy, easily cultivated shrub blooming the first year after planting. It requires little care after becoming established. Plant in soil liberally enriched with peat moss, leaf mold, or compost. The plants do not like to be crowded, so place them at least six to ten feet apart to allow plenty of room to spread. Plants will remain healthy and blooming with a light fertilizing (5-10-5) in early spring to encourage blooms. Adequate moisture during the hot, dry summer months is necessary for continued nectar production.

Butterfly Bush blooms best on new wood and should be cut back to three or four buds from the base of the old wood (approximately ten inches above the ground) in early February or at least before spring growth begins. It will not put forth new growth until late spring, but once started, it grows rapidly. Pruning keeps the plant at a lower height and spread of around six feet. However, unpruned shrubs begin flowering earlier in the spring, so pruning of different plants should be rotated each year. To keep plants flowering all summer, keep all spent racemes clipped.

This plant can be grown in almost any soil but needs good drainage and full sun. A regular addition of iron may be necessary to prevent iron chlorosis if the available water is alkaline. In hotter, drier regions, Butterfly Bush may occasionally be bothered by red spider mites. Treat with one of the organic methods discussed elsewhere in this book.

New plants are easy to obtain from semi-hardwood cuttings taken anytime from late summer to late fall using normal rooting methods. Root the cuttings directly in the garden in a sheltered area or in a cold frame.

NOTE: There is probably no better cultivated shrub for attracting butterflies to the home garden than Butterfly Bush. They are usually prolific bloomers, producing masses of flowers throughout the season. Butterflies will not leave them. There will be from one to several species feeding almost constantly. The racemes are sturdy enough to hold the weight of larger butterflies such as Fritillaries (family Nymphalidae) and Swallowtails (family Papilionidae), which often perch, nectaring at length. At times there will be so many butterflies feeding around these plants that the butterflies actually jostle one another for the best nectar spots. The wonderful honeylike fragrance is very strong, especially in late evening and early night, so Butterfly Bush is especially nice planted near a window, porch, or patio.

There are many cultivars of B. davidii, with flower colors ranging from white to yellow through pinks, blues, and purples. Butterflies generally seem to like the lavender or purple shades the best. To be sure of purchasing a good nectar producer, spend some time at the nursery watching to see which ones attract the butterflies.

Medium to large, rather coarse deciduous shrub, often with few to several trunks from the base. Leaves long, shiny, dark green, solitary, opposite, or in whorls of three or four along slender branches. Flowers numerous, fragrant, creamy-white to pinkish with conspicuously protruding stamens forming perfect spheres.

CULTIVATION: In the wild, Buttonbush is always found in areas of plentiful moisture or even actually growing in shallow water, but it tolerates much drier conditions under cultivation. For best flower production, it still needs more water than other shrubs in the garden, so plant it near a dripping water faucet or where extra water can be provided with no problem. It is a hardy shrub and grows in almost any soil. Buttonbush can be planted in either sun or semishade but produces more flowers with richer nectar in the sun. It is ideal when used in front of taller shrubs or trees to form an “edge” effect.

Plants may be obtained from seeds, or cuttings or may occasionally be offered by nurseries. Extract ripe seeds from the dried balls in late fall, and sow immediately in a moist, sandy site. Young seedlings can later be transferred to permanent locations in the garden. Unless a very large space is available, only one or two plants are needed because these shrubs become quite wide and require a lot of growing space. Also, they eventually root-sprout, providing even more plants. Under normal growing conditions, Buttonbush remains a large shrub six to eight feet high and wide. As it gets older, the trunks become dark, gnarled, and very picturesque.

If a small tree form is desired, select one, two, or three of the strongest, straightest trunks; trim all the other trunks to ground level; and then trim the lower branches to the height wanted. This will never become a real tree, so do not trim the branches too severely or so high the feeding butterflies cannot be enjoyed.

NOTE: When this plant is in flower, the fragrant balls are completely covered with butterflies and other insects. Butterflies become so engrossed in feeding that they can sometimes be picked up by their wings. Buttonbush seems to be a favorite with all species, but especially Hairstreaks (family Lycaenidae), Skippers (family Hesperdiidae), and Swallowtails (family Papilionidae).

Robust, sprawling to somewhat viny or scan-dent shrub, woody in basal portion, many-branched, and forming large mounds. Leaves opposite, rather triangular, usually toothed along edges. Flowers lilac to pale purplish-blue, very small, in terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: In the wild, this plant is usually found in more rocky or clayey soils around edges of shrub thickets, oak mottes, open woodlands, and palm groves. In the home garden almost any soil will do as long as it is not too rich and has good drainage.

Crucita is offered by almost all nurseries carrying native plants but can easily be started either from seeds or cuttings. In late fall after the flowers have become a dark tannish, fluffy mass, clip the entire head. Seeds can be extracted, or plant the entire mass in flats containing loose, well-drained soil. Barely cover with a layer of fine sand, and keep the soil moist. New growth should be showing in two to three weeks.

Growing from cuttings is the fastest and easiest method for obtaining new plants. Take three- to six-inch softwood or semihardwood cuttings in summer or fall. Remove leaves from the lower nodes, dip in rooting powder, and place the cuttings in potting soil under mist. Once a root system is established, place summer-rooted plants directly in the garden. Fall-rooted plants may need to be carried over with protection until spring.

Old clumps of Crucita can easily be divided by trimming back to four to six inches, then digging, separating into rooted sections, and replanting. Keep them watered the first few days until established. Crucita will grow in semishade, but for most flowering and richest nectar production, place in full sun with a lot of room to spread.

Once plants are well established in the garden, an early spring trimming will make foliage thicker and lusher, but generally leave them alone. An occasional watering in the driest months may be needed, but fertilizing is not recommended and the plants are usually insect- and disease-free.

NOTE: Crucita is one of the larval food plants for the Rounded Metalmark (Calephelis perditalis perditalis). Blooming over a long period and rich in nectar, this plant is an absolute magnet, drawing in numerous species such as Malachite (Siproeta stelenes biplagiata), White Peacock (Anartia jatrophae luteipicta), Sickle-winged Skipper (Eantis tamenund), Soldier (Danaus eresimus), various Longtails (family Hesperiidae), and Metalmarks (family Riodinidae).

RELATED SPECIES: The lower-growing Betony-leaf Mistflower (Conoclinium betonicifolium), with a natural range along the coast, does exceptionally well throughout the Valley area. It, too, is used as a larval food source by the Rounded Metalmark and is also heavily used as a nectar source by many species of butterflies.

Upright to sprawling, many-branched, tropical-appearing herbaceous shrub, woody or semiwoody at base. Leaves large, dark green, stalked, and three- to five-lobed, soft and velvety on lower surface. Flowers small, numerous, scarlet-colored, formed from five erect, whorled petals; the stamen conspicuously protruding an inch or more beyond petals. Fruit small, berrylike, tubular-shaped, red when ripe, edible, tasting similar to an apple, although more seeds than pulp.

CULTIVATION: Buying from a native plant nursery is the easiest and quickest method of getting this plant started in the garden. After it has become well established and growing, it should produce an abundance of small fruits. When fruits begin to dry and shrivel, collect the fruit and spread on wire or paper until crispy dry. When they are papery, rub to remove any remaining matter and loosen seeds. Plant seeds in spring after soil is thoroughly warm.

Well-established plants can be lifted in the spring and divided. Four- to six-inch tip cuttings can be taken in late summer to fall, dipped in rooting powder, and the potted cutting placed under a plastic bag until rooted. Preferring native to poor soils, once established, this native requires nothing more than occasional trimming and watering during the driest of seasons.

Severe pruning or trimming of seedlings, rooted plants, and well-established garden plants should be done in winter to encourage bushier growth and better flowering. When trimmed in this manner, it is an excellent plant when used at the edge of or beneath trees or large shrubs. It can be used alone in large colonies or combined with shrubby perennials such as Agarita (Mahonia trifoliolata), Tropical Sage (Salvia coccinea), Broad-leaf Wood-oats (Chasmanthium latifolium), various lantanas (Lantana spp.), and the nonnative Mexican Oregano (Poliomintha longifolia).

Under ideal growing conditions in the southern portion of its range, it reaches its maximum height, but for most of its growing range, without trimming, it will sprawl and never reach much higher than three or four feet. Depending on the region, it will remain semievergreen or deciduous, coming back from the roots each year.

NOTE: This plant is also a larval food source for the Turk’s-cap White-Skipper (Heliopetes macaira), Mallow Scrub-Hairstreak (Strymon istapa istapa), and Glassy-winged Skipper (Xenophanes tryxus).

Upright, slender-stemmed, deciduous shrub or small tree, often with several stems and forming a clump. Leaves interesting, ferny, up to nine inches long, formed from many small, opposite leaflets. Flowers numerous, small, dark purple, with protruding, bright orange anthers; densely compacted into long, gracefully tapering racemes. Fruit a short, somewhat flattened, curved pod containing one or two seeds.

CULTIVATION: False Indigo may be easily propagated by either seeds or cuttings. Obtain the dark brown, shiny seeds by gathering pods in late summer or early fall or as soon as they turn yellowish-brown. Remove seeds, and place them on an open tray or in an open paper bag for a few days. Store in the refrigerator until ready to plant.

Plant the seeds in either fall or early spring. For spring planting, first soak seeds in hot water for ten or fifteen minutes. Sow where plants are to remain, covering the seeds to a depth of one-half inch. After seedlings are up and growing well, transplant if necessary, but do so as soon as possible, for this plant quickly develops a very long taproot. Seeds germinate better if sown after the ground has become thoroughly warm.

Take softwood cuttings anytime from late spring to early fall. Make the cut just below a node, and root in sand. Plants from cuttings grow rapidly, often attaining a height of six to eight feet the first year from fall-rooted cuttings.

Mature stands of False Indigo often have numerous stems, which can usually be separated for transplanting in spring, fall, or winter. After planting, trim the stems back two-thirds and water in with a root stimulator. Keep moist but not soggy until new growth appears, and then give them a mild solution of soluble fertilizer. Once the plants start growing well, thin the clumps by trimming, leaving five or six stems for a more shapely grouping.

Found naturally in very mesic habitats, such as along stream banks, at the edges of wet meadows or marshes, or along roadside ditches, False Indigo does quite well in a garden if given just a bit of extra moisture. It thrives better and requires less care and attention if used with other moisture-demanding plants in a special area or bed of its own. It is not too choosy about soil, but good garden loam produces more and better growth and flowering. False Indigo also produces more and darker-colored flowers in full sun, so use this plant in open, exposed areas, such as at the back of perennial borders, along moist woodland edges, or as a specimen planting. False Indigo should be placed somewhat away from perennials, as it is a rather aggressive surface feeder.

NOTE: False Indigo is also the larval food plant for the Southern Dogface (Zerene cesonia), Hoary Edge (Achalarus lyciades), Silver-spotted Skipper (Epargyreus clarus), Gray Hairstreak (Strymon melinus franki), and Eastern Tailed-Blue (Cupido comyntas texana). It has become such a favorite for the home garden that it is now often available as a container-grown plant at nurseries offering native stock.

Well-shaped, many-branched deciduous shrub. Leaves smooth, numerous, pale green. Flowers numerous, small, four-petaled, fragrant, various shades of lavender, forming long, showy racemes.

CULTIVATION: Since Fragrant Lilacs do not readily produce seeds, propagation must be either by purchasing plants or by planting semihardwood cuttings. Syringa is an old genus and can be readily found in the trade. Six-to eight-inch tip cuttings from the branches should be made after flowering; remove lower leaves, and cut the base of the stem at a slant. Dip in rooting hormone, and then place some cuttings in sand, some in potting soil. Keep soil moist until there is good root growth. Set out in a permanent location in early fall, disturbing roots as little as possible. Cover with wire for protection against predators until in full summer leaf.

Lilacs demand full sun and slightly acidic to neutral, moist, well-drained soils. Generous additions of organic matter from time to time are beneficial to established plants.

If pruning becomes necessary on fully mature plants, do so immediately after flowering, as plants flower on old wood.

RELATED SPECIES: Numerous varieties and cultivars of lilac are offered, with flowers ranging from white to yellow to darkest purple. Many of them have been bred for various attributes, but none for better nectar production. Better nectar production will be found in the older species, especially the “original” shown here. This is the old-fashioned lilac so often seen in Southern gardens and is almost always covered in butterflies, especially Swallowtails (family Papilionidae). If purchasing plants, make sure the plant is mildew resistant, fragrant, and noted as being a butterfly attractant.

Hardy, evergreen to semideciduous shrub with graceful, arching branches. Leaves small, conspicuously shiny, bronze when young and again in the fall. Flowers fragrant, white to pale pink, tubular or bell-shaped, occurring in terminal clusters and from leaf axils along the branches.

CULTIVATION: The shrub known today as Glossy Abelia is a cross between two species, chinensis and uniflora. It is a very hardy, fast-growing shrub with no significant insect or disease problems. It tolerates neglect and grows in shade, but for the healthiest plant producing the most flowers, give it a moist but well-drained, humus-enriched soil in full sun. It takes some drought but grows much more vigorously with adequate but normal watering. This shrub does not like wind; in such areas it grows and blooms better if planted where protection is offered by a building or a fence of some solid material. Flowers appear on both old and new wood, so prune at any time, although early spring is generally best.

New plants may be started from the trimmed branches. Strip leaves from the last two nodes of a six- to eight-inch tip cutting, dip in rooting powder, and then insert in a potting medium. Keep soil moist until roots are well developed, and then place in a permanent location.

This is a plant commonly offered by nurseries and mail-order catalogs, so obtaining nice, well-developed plants should be no problem.

Glossy Abelia is often used as hedges and screens, where it is severely trimmed, but it is much more impressive as a specimen plant. When used as such and left unpruned, it forms a beautiful, large mound, with slender drooping or “weeping” branches covered with dense, lush foliage and a wealth of flowers. A long hedge of unpruned or moderately trimmed plants being avidly used by butterflies is truly a wondrous sight.

NOTE: The nectar-rich flowers of Glossy Abelia are especially liked by Swallowtails (family Papilionidae), who spend much time flying lazily about the bush, then periodically sailing in to nectar long and contentedly on some choice cluster.

An open, semiwoody, many-stemmed shrub forming a dense, rounded clump or becoming scandent and clambering into nearby shrubs and trees. Leaves opposite, broadest at base, toothed along margins. Flowers numerous, scented, white, forming showy terminal clusters; stamens protruding far beyond the corolla giving the flowers an airy, frothy look.

CULTIVATION: New plants of Havana Snakeroot can be easily obtained by seeds or cuttings. For seeds, gather the entire flower cluster after it has become brown, dry, and fluffy. Place clusters in an open paper bag to air-dry for a few days, and then store in the refrigerator. In late winter, plant seeds in flats in loose, well-drained soil and at medium temperatures until up and growing well. Transplant to the garden in early spring for autumn flowering.

To start plants by cuttings, take a four- to six-inch portion of a well-developed branch showing new growth, remove the bottom leaves, dip the branch in rooting powder, and place in flats or individual pots. Once they are rooted, plant in a permanent position in the garden.

Havana Snakeroot can be easily divided in either spring or fall. Trim foliage to a few inches above the ground before digging; then separate the clump and replant where wanted. Keep new plantings watered thoroughly until well established. Nurseries commonly offer container plants that are usually strong and healthy stock, ensuring much larger and bushier plants for first-year flowering.

This is a plant for the less fertile and more arid sites in the garden, performing beautifully with practically no attention. Fertilizing is beneficial if done sparingly, and an occasional extra watering during the hottest months ensures better growth and more flowers in the fall. For really bushy plants with the most flowers, trim them severely in late winter. If not trimmed, plants eventually climb or lean on nearby shrubbery or low trees. This plant is very hardy and not usually bothered by pests or diseases.

For spectacular fall displays in the garden, combine Havana Snakeroot with other species such as purple-flowered Trailing Lantana (Lantana montevidensis), Lindheimer’s Morning Glory (Ipomoea lindheimeri), Sharp-pod Morning Glory (I. cordatotriloba), Bush Sunflower (Simsia calva), Maximilian Sunflower (Helianthus maximiliani), Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), or any of the asters (Symphyotrichum spp.), agalinis (Agalinis spp.), or verbenas (Verbena spp.).

NOTE: One of the few white-flowered plants used extensively by butterflies, Havana Snakeroot is one of the best natives for drawing them into the garden. The fragrance is very strong and may not be pleasing to some, but butterflies apparently love it.

RELATED SPECIES: Wright’s Snakeroot (Ageratina wrightii) is a native to the far west (Region 7) but grows beautifully as far east as Austin and as far north as the Dallas–Fort Worth area.

Upright, many-branched but open, deciduous perennial shrub, flowering before or just as first leaves put forth. Leaves alternate, much longer than wide, covered with soft hairs on both surfaces. Flowers pale pink to dark rose, trumpet-shaped, growing in loose clusters at ends of branches, often in great profusion; the large flowers richly fragrant, the scent from a few plants in bloom almost intoxicating.

CULTIVATION: Piedmont Azalea may be started from seeds but is a little difficult and requires more care than most plants. The easiest and fastest method of propagation is by taking four- to six-inch cuttings from new growth in the spring. Crush cut ends of the cuttings, dip in rooting hormone, and pot in a peat and perlite mixture. Place cuttings under a glass jar or a plastic tent, and mist occasionally until rooted. Remove the covering often to give the cuttings fresh air.

Simple rooting of the cuttings is not sufficient for survival. The cuttings would die the following spring unless new top growth has been forced by frequent additions of a weak-strength fertilizer throughout the past season. Healthy, well-established plants of Piedmont Azalea are offered by some nurseries, and this is by far the best means of obtaining plants.

To keep plants happy and growing well, place them in open semishade—ideally beneath tall pines and high-branched hardwoods. Place them in a raised bed to ensure the good drainage they require, and work plenty of humus-rich organic matter into the soil. Half-rotted pine needles are excellent for this, for these plants thrive best in an acidic soil. If pine needles are not available, use leaf mold, rotten sawdust (from pines if possible), or peat moss. Peat moss is the best to use in a new planting because it absorbs and retains the moisture so essential to azaleas. Add plenty of sharp sand if the soil is not naturally sandy. Another method is to spread a layer of sand one or two inches deep on top of a prepared bed, place the plants on top of the sand, and fill around the roots with a mixture of sand, bark, and peat. Azaleas are very shallow rooted, so good mulching is mandatory for their survival. After planting, spread a four- or five-inch layer of pine needles, shredded pine bark, or coarsely shredded cedar bark around the shrub and well beyond its branches. A mixture of materials is preferable since the mulch naturally deteriorates at different times.

If using Piedmont Azaleas against a house or other building with a brick or concrete foundation, take care to prevent lime seepage from the concrete. Line the back of the bed and at least partway under the bed with plastic before adding soil. Do not use bonemeal or wood ashes near azaleas, both of which contain lime. To retain the high acidity necessary for azaleas, add a new layer of mulch each year. Azaleas also benefit from specially formulated azalea food, which should be applied each spring after flowering, at midsummer, and again in early fall. Manure is not recommended for azaleas because of the high alkaline reaction.

Azaleas require consistent moisture year-round, with extra watering during the hot summer months. It is especially critical the first two or three years after planting. Keep a close watch, and do not let the soil become so dry that the plants begin to wilt. After severe wilting, no amount of water will save them, so frequently check the soil to be sure it is moist at least two inches deep.

Once an azalea is planted and thriving, do not attempt to move it—any kind of transplanting almost always results in death of the plant.

In the garden, Piedmont Azaleas are especially lovely when used in a shrubby border or at the edge of woodlands and mingled with such other natives as Tall Pawpaw (Asimina triloba), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), and Parsley-leaved Hawthorn (Crataegus marshallii). In the foreground use great drifts of some of the lower-growing perennials such as Moss Phlox (Phlox subulata), Prairie Phlox (P. pilosa), Rose Verbena (Glandularia canadensis), and the vine Carolina Jasmine (Gelsimium sempervirens). All of these bloom simultaneously with azaleas and in the wild form spectacular displays.

NOTE: Almost all azaleas, both native and cultivated, are much liked by butterflies, especially the large ones such as Swallowtails (family Papilionidae), Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae incarnata), and spring-migrating Monarch (Danaus plexippus). Smaller Hair-streaks (family Lycaenidae) and Skippers (family Hesperiidae) crawl into the large blossoms in order to reach the nectar with their shorter proboscises.

Upright, widely branched, delicate-appearing perennial woody shrub, flowering well after leaves have put out. Leaves opposite, dark green on upper side, pale and softly fuzzy beneath. Flowers small, white, intensely fragrant, in long, slender, upright clusters.

CULTIVATION: Sweet Almond Verbena does not readily bear seeds but is now offered by most nurseries, which may be the best way to obtain a mother plant. After the plant has become fully established and is growing well, cuttings can be taken for more plants.

Before beginning propagation, prepare the needed containers. For each cutting, fill a four-inch pot with potting soil, thoroughly soak the soil, and then press down soil to extract all extra moisture. Cuttings should be taken after leaves have appeared in early spring but before any flower buds are showing. Cut four- to six-inch lengths of tip growth with three or four sets of leaves, cutting stem at a slant or forty-five-degree angle. Remove leaves from approximately two inches of the lower portion of the stem, and dip in rooting powder, thoroughly coating these last two inches. Punch a hole two inches deep in prepared moist soil, place the cutting in the hole, and firm soil around the cutting. Barely moisten the soil just around the cutting. Place the potted cutting in a large, clear plastic bag; almost close the bag but leave a small “breathing” space. Place bag near a window or door but never in the sun. Check daily, making sure soil is still wet but the bag is not dripping moisture. Soil must be moist at all times.

Plants should be rooted in approximately two weeks. If a cutting looks healthy and appears to be growing, remove the bag, and place the pot outside in dappled shade. Water plants carefully, and do not let them dry to the point of wilting. After plants have added three to four inches of new growth, they can be planted in a sunny, wind- and freeze-protected area in the garden. Under normal growing conditions, they will bloom the second season. In the most northern portion of their range (Region 2) they like protection from northern winds and freezes, or to be really safe, overwinter them in a greenhouse. In the Hill Country area they need protection, but if winter-killed, they will usually resprout in spring. In the southern coastal regions, they often flower most of the year.

Eventually becoming taller than most flowering shrubs, Sweet Almond Verbena is excellent when used at the back of wide borders, as a hedge, or as a single plant standing alone. It can be fronted with lower-growing shrubs such as Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii), Salt-marsh Mallow (Kosteletzkya virginica), Havana Snakeroot (Ageratina havanensis) or Wright’s Snakeroot (A. wrightii), or False Indigo (Amorpha fruticosa). It is lovely mixed with the taller-growing perennials Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium fistulosum), Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Tooth-leaved Goldeneye (Viguiera dentata), and Argentina Verbena (Verbena bonariensis) bordered with lower-growing annuals and perennials. Wherever the plants are placed, butterflies of many species will be drawn in by the sweet fragrance and abundant nectar.

NOTE: A native of Argentina, this plant grows in the wild as far north as southern Mexico. It is closely related and similar to the South Texas and Hill Country native shrub Beebrush (Aloysia gratissima).

Densely branched, low-growing deciduous shrub, with numerous silvery-barked, zigzag, twiggy branches. Leaves small, solitary or clustered, grayish-green. Flowers small, greenish-yellow, oddly shaped, borne in clusters in abundance in early spring. If more than one shrub planted to provide cross-fertilization, flowering followed by numerous hard, dry fruits.

CULTIVATION: In its natural habitat Texas Colubrina is usually common but not intrusive. Since it does not bear thorns, it is one of the more desirable native western shrubs. Whether plants are started from seeds or by cuttings, Texas Colubrina is one of the more difficult ones to propagate. Unless eaten by wildlife, the hard, dry seed capsules remain on the plants for several months after ripening and may be gathered at any time. Plant mature fruit either in fall or spring, although fall planting seems to result in better germination. Try soaking some seeds overnight, soaking some in hot water, or placing some between layers of moist sand for several days. Plant seeds outdoors in permanent locations.

Make cuttings by taking six-inch-long semihardwood tips, dipping in a rooting powder, and potting individually in a good rooting medium.

If it is necessary to transplant established plants, move when the plants are young and retain as much surrounding soil as possible. Cut branches back at least two-thirds, and water thoroughly after planting. Fertilize two or three times a year with a very mild water-soluble fertilizer the first year or two. This helps plants become established but will not be necessary later on. After plants are two or three years old, occasional fall trimming produces thicker, more compact growth.

This is a wonderful plant to use in the driest, rockiest portion of the garden and worth the trouble of establishing. If your soil is not already sandy or rocky, it is beneficial to buy gravel at a business that mixes cement and combine it with soil in the planting hole.

Use Texas Colubrina at the back of a flower border, or mix it with other native shrubs to form a woodland edge. It also makes striking specimen plants or solid borders.

NOTE: Scientific studies have shown that Texas Colubrina is avidly visited by several species of butterflies, especially the Texas Emperor (Asterocampa clyton texana) and Empress Antonia (A. celtis antonia). The majority are females whose objective, however, is not a sugar-rich nectar. Instead, the butterflies work the central disks of the flowers, possibly obtaining nitrogen to aid in better egg quality.

Woody, deciduous perennial forming large, many-stemmed clumps with spreading or trailing, vinelike branches; entire plant very aromatic. Leaves opposite, coarsely toothed. Flowers pale lilac to magenta or purple, numerous, and forming rather flat or somewhat rounded showy clusters.

CULTIVATION: Trailing Lantana is a hardy shrub that does best in the garden if cut back to about four to six inches from the ground in late fall after flowering or after the first hard freeze. The roots are strong, and many shoots put forth each spring from healthy plants. When planting, give Trailing Lantana plenty of room to spread, placing the plants at least eight feet apart and in full sun. By the middle of the growing season, they will have formed lush, solid masses, spreading equally as far forward and backward as well as upward. As new growth starts, the long, slender branches begin extending upward; if there are nearby shrubs or trees, Trailing Lantana will lean on or climb into the branches. If no support is near, the branches will eventually fall back to the ground in a weeping effect, sprawling gracefully into large, beautiful clumps or mounds. These plants are spectacular cascading down a bank or stone wall.

Trailing Lantana makes almost unbelievable growth if a little extra fertilizing and moisture are available. Light topdressings of horse manure in the spring and fall are excellent. Lantanas are usually exceptionally drought tolerant, but adequate moisture ensures the most bloom over the longest period. Good drainage is necessary; otherwise, mildew will be a problem. When the plant is overwatered, blooming slows down until the soil moisture has become balanced enough to produce new flowering shoots. In the garden, lantanas are sometimes infested with white flies (especially if crowded), but frequent and forceful spraying of the underside of the leaves with a water hose in the early morning usually keeps pests under control.

A corner or bed filled with several plants of Trailing Lantana is well worth considering if space allows. Butterflies will readily repay you. During the middle of the day at the height of nectar production, there will often be dozens of butterflies of various species around the plants. Certainly the number of butterflies will be in direct proportion to the number of plants in the garden, so try to include as many as the garden will bear. Even if there is room for only one, plant it. To prolong the flowering period and ensure the greatest flower productivity, keep the clusters of violet-black berries trimmed off.

Trailing Lantana is propagated by seeds, cuttings, or divisions. The berrylike drupes may be gathered when fully mature and either planted immediately or any time up until fall. Four- to eight-inch cuttings—taken in late spring, dipped in a rooting hormone, and inserted in a peat and perlite mixture—should root in three to four weeks. Place a clear plastic bag over the rooting container, and keep the plants and rooting mixture moist but not soggy. Trailing Lantana also roots readily at each node, and new plants are easily obtained by cutting on each side of the rooted node and gently lifting from the soil. Replant immediately.

NOTE: Foliage of all species of Lantana has a strong, pungent scent when disturbed, which some people find unpleasant. Butterflies also have a dislike for the fragrance and usually fly to another part of the garden until the scent has dissipated.

RELATED SPECIES: Many color and growth forms of Lantana species are available at nurseries as cultivars (usually of more dwarf form and with smoother foliage), but these are hybrids bred for showy flowers and contain little if any nectar. Butterflies totally ignore most of them.

Under good growing conditions, slender branches extend several feet, forming thick, dense masses and often covering nearby vegetation; in the wild, usually a sprawling, twining, luxuriant, low-climbing herbaceous perennial; in the garden can be tamed to a wonderful background vine to trail on a fence or trellis. Stems dark maroon to almost black, in stark contrast to the dull green foliage. Leaves opposite, often wavy or toothed along margins, giving the plant an unusual “lacy” appearance. Flowers small, whitish (some plants with flowers whiter than others), disk-shaped, forming numerous, showy clusters from leaf axils, resembling the blue-flowered mistflowers.

CULTIVATION: Not often offered in the trade, this plant is best started from seeds or tip cuttings taken in the wild. Seeds are tiny and black with a tuft of whitish bristles. They may be shaken from the dried, brown bloom cluster. Plant immediately where the plants are wanted, or store in a closed container until spring. Semihardwood tip cuttings can be taken in mid- to late summer, dipped in rooting powder, and potted in a sand/perlite mixture.

In the garden, place with species that require more moisture, such as Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium fistulosum), Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Purple Marsh-fleabane (Pluchea odorata), and Pickerel Weed (Pontederia cordata). For more continuous flowering, keep all dead flower heads trimmed off.

NOTE: Climbing Hempweed is an important late-fall nectar source for many species of butterflies and is heavily utilized by various bees.

Trailing, sprawling, or climbing, fast-growing annual or perennial. Leaves thick, coarsely toothed, dark green, making lush green background. Flowers daisylike, orange-red outer petals with yellow center, occurring in small, numerous clusters; become darker with age, almost red in coloring.

CULTIVATION: Finding this plant in any form is very uncertain, so get it however it is encountered—buy plants or beg for seeds or cuttings. For attracting butterflies, it is one of the very best.

Seeds must have light to germinate, so spread thinly over moist soil, gently pressing into soil. Do not cover. Keep the area moist by misting daily or as needed. If seeds will be planted outside, wait until the soil has thoroughly warmed (70–80 degrees). Germination of seeds is usually erratic, so plant plenty. If seeds are gathered from a growing plant, take only fully mature, dry seed heads.

Success is much greater if a four- to six-inch tip cutting is taken, dipped in rooting powder, and then potted. Some instructions suggest placing the cutting in a small square of wet floral foam. Both foam and soil should be tried. Whatever the method, when roots form, plant in the ground where wanted. If the foam has been used, plant foam and all in the ground. This plant also roots at nodes whenever branches touch the ground, so layering should produce needed new plants. These plants will root-sprout, but any unwanted plants can easily be pulled out.

Place plants in light to medium rich garden soil and water regularly, but do not overwater. Foliage is fairly sensitive and is a good indicator of water needs. Fertilizing can be done lightly but regularly. Overfertilizing will result in a lot of lush foliage but fewer blooms.

For best flowering, plant in full sun. Plants will produce some blooms in just afternoon sun or dappled shade, but butterfly usage may not be as good.

In the extreme tip of the Valley, this plant is usually evergreen and blooms all year. In the Austin area it will be killed to the ground each winter but will root-sprout each spring. North of the Austin area plants will need to be trimmed, dug, potted, and brought inside for the winter. Most gardeners in this area plant them in large pots, put the pots in the ground each year, and then take up the potted plant just before the first freeze. If this is done, and the potted plant is placed near a sunny window, the plants will grow through the winter, with nice plants ready to start rapid growth when reset in the yard in spring.

If a climbing vine is wanted, this plant may need some help in the beginning. Tie to a support with soft cloth strips or twist ties. These can be removed once the plant has twined throughout the support. It makes an ideal screen for porches, railings, or chain-link fences. If growth becomes too rampant, trim back as much as needed; the plant will not be harmed.

The startling orange-colored flowers may be a bit much for some gardeners, but if plants in a soft pink color are used as companion plants, such as some Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata) and West Indian Lantana (Lantana camara), the effect will be softened considerably.

NOTE: Previously known under the name Senecio confusus, this vine is a native of Central America and grows wild from Honduras to Mexico.

Rampantly climbing or sprawling deciduous, perennial vine from large, tuberlike root, climbing by tendrils. Leaves large, thin, pale green, deeply indented at base, conspicuously veined. Flowers white to rose-pink, hanging from slender, wiry stems in branched, terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: A native of Mexico and Central America, where it is known as Chain-of-love, Queen’s Wreath makes a spectacular late summer and autumn display. This vine loses its leaves each winter in the northernmost limits of its range, and in cold winters most top growth may die to the ground, but it recovers quickly. Where the temperature drops below 25 degrees, protect roots with a deep, loose, straw mulch. In the Rio Grande Valley, this vine often remains evergreen and hardly stops flowering.

Queen’s Wreath is offered in pots by many nurseries, rooted sections can be taken from the mother plant, or it can be started from seed. Whichever way is used, plant in loose, well-drained soil, and keep moist until new growth begins to show. Fertilize twice yearly with a good, all-around fertilizer such as 20-20-20. Give this plant the hottest spot in the garden and full sun. It revels in high summer heat but appreciates regular and thorough waterings. If allowed to become too dry, the plant will shed its leaves.

Queen’s Wreath is at its very best when shading a patio or terrace or draping its foliage and long, trailing sprays of blossoms over a fence or garden wall. If using it as a climber, at its base use White-flowered Plumbago (Plumbago scandens), Golden Dew-drop Duranta (Duranta erecta), Argentina Verbena (Verbena bonariensis), Gregg’s Mistflower (Conoclinium dissectum), or New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), as well as liatris (Liatris spp.).

NOTE: In its native areas, the huge nutty-flavored tuber of this plant is eaten.

Upright to widely sprawling, usually many-branched perennial; almost the entire plant covered with glandular hairs, making it sticky to the touch. Leaves opposite, thick. Flowers trumpet-shaped, fragrant, lavender to violet-purple, numerous, forming an almost spherical terminal cluster.

CULTIVATION: Throughout its range, Amelia’s Sand-verbena is an absolutely fabulous plant to use in the garden for attracting butterflies. It is extremely rich in nectar, and butterflies of many species find it much to their liking. Beginning to flower as early as December in South Texas, it continues blooming until the extreme heat of summer does it in. About the end of June or July, it stops flowering, and the aboveground portion of the plant just withers away.

Members of Abronia are not easy to grow, but some, such as this one, are so well liked by butterflies that they are worth the special effort necessary to get them to grow. They demand deep, well-drained sand for growing, which means almost dunelike. Unless you live where these plants grow naturally, prepare a bed especially for them where they will have the best chance of thriving and surviving. Either build a raised bed and fill it with loose sand, or dig out the soil to a depth of one and one-half feet and fill the bedding space with the sand. In most cases, the raised bed will probably work better and be easier to prepare.

The foliage of Amelia’s Sand-verbena is very tender and fragile and breaks easily, especially when young, so try not to work the beds any more than absolutely necessary. Once the plants have started growing, they require very little water and usually do best with no fertilizer. Do not mulch, for this will cause plants to rot at ground level and die.

It is virtually impossible to transplant any of the sand-verbenas, but they usually reseed themselves, producing young seedlings around the mother plant. However, there are always adverse years when natural conditions are not the best for germination, so it does not hurt to lend a hand. Gather seeds as soon as ripe, let them air-dry for a few days, and store in the refrigerator until time to plant. Planting time is very critical for best germination; plant seeds during October. For best results, make two to four plantings during the month. Scatter seeds about on an area that has been lightly raked, and then tamp the soil down lightly with a board or the back of a hoe. Sprinkle the planted area until thoroughly moist but not soggy.

After the first flush of flowering, trim back any plants that have started to sprawl, and they will respond with another burst of bloom.

Because these plants demand deep, dry, sandy soil, companion plants for the garden are rather limited. Use them with Huisache Daisy (Amblyolepis setigera), Rose Palafoxia (Palafoxia rosea), or Western Peppergrass (Lepidium alyssoides), or fill the bed solid with Amelia’s Sand-verbenas for a spectacular sight and an area that will be much appreciated by butterflies. After the plants have faded in midsummer, intermingle with nursery-purchased Moss Rose (Portulaca grandiflora) and Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), which are shallow-rooted and will not disturb Amelia’s Sand-verbena. Do not do any unnecessary digging or cultivating in this area if young plants of Amelia’s Sand-verbena are needed to come up the next year.

Upright, widely spreading annual or perennial, the stems several, four-angled, slender, occasionally branching, giving plant an open, airy appearance. Leaves few, opposite, slender, dark green, rough, toothed on margins. Flowers blue-purple, small, but formed in terminal showy compact clusters.

CULTIVATION: Argentine Verbena often self-sows, so obtaining new plants is usually no problem. Simply transplant new plants where wanted.

Six-inch tip cuttings can be taken, cutting above a node. Trim the upper tip growth from the cutting. Dip the lower end of the cutting in rooting powder (up to the second node), and plant in a four-inch pot that has been filled with soil-less seed mix. Press soil around cutting, water the soil, and spray or mist the cutting. Place a plastic bag over the cutting and the pot. Keep under a bag (checking soil often for moisture content) until new growth is observed. Then, transplant either into a larger pot or a permanent position in the flower bed.

These plants prefer a good garden soil, not overly rich or overly moist. Good drainage is most important. Plant in full sun, and give them room to breathe. If crowded, they sometimes develop mildew, which can usually be controlled by trimming nearby vegetation.

These easy-to-grow plants are definitely low maintenance, generally just needing an occasional watering and periodic trimming of old flowering clusters to ensure continuous bloom during the entire season. As with most verbenas, they are rich in nectar and readily attract numerous species of butterflies.

Depending on how wide the flower bed is, these plants can be used either at the back of a border or near the middle.

Annual or short-lived somewhat bristly perennial, forming stiffly upright to somewhat sprawling, coarse mounds; many slender stems form nice mounded clumps of pure color. Leaves alternate, mostly in lower portion of plant. Flowers yellow, formed at tips of long, slender stems; the slender ray flowers petal-like and with tight clusters of tiny chocolate-brown disk flowers forming a flattened conelike cluster in the center; “petals” often blotched with brown or maroon in basal portion.

CULTIVATION: Brown-eyed Susan readily reseeds, and simply replanting the young seedlings in desired locations in the beds is easy. Seeds are tiny, dry, and hard to obtain. Young seedlings usually appear in fall and should be moved to permanent locations at this time. The roots become well established over the winter. Once growing well in the garden, some of the seedlings from the first flowering may bloom in the late summer or fall.

Plant Brown-eyed Susan in full sun in fertile, well-drained soils. If necessary, amend tight soils with organic matter. Adding a small amount of slow-release fertilizer every four or five weeks will be very beneficial. After the plants are placed in beds, add a layer of mulch to keep the soil cool. Afternoon dappled shade will promote more profuse flowering and a longer bloom period.

To keep the plants flowering longer, keep them watered, the foliage green and growing well, and all spent flowers trimmed off. Do not let them go to seed until late in summer. After they have made seeds, flowering will stop and foliage will wither.

A hardy, long-lived perennial from a deep, stout root, sending up many flowering stems from a central axis; the milky sap typical of other members of this genus absent in this species. Leaves alternate, numerous, somewhat crowded, margins wavy or sometimes rolled toward lower surface. Flowers large, flat clusters of small, uniquely shaped blossoms, ranging from yellow to red, but most commonly a brilliant orange, borne in the terminal portions of slender stems.

CULTIVATION: Butterfly Weed is easily grown from seeds. Gather pods six to eight weeks after flowering or just as they begin to split open. Strip the silken down from seeds, and sow outside immediately, preferably where the plants are to remain. Seed germination is rather erratic, but it is possible for seeds sown in late summer or fall to produce blooming plants the following season. Flowering is most abundant if plants receive full sun.

Butterfly Weed can be moved about the garden, but the taproot is both brittle and extremely deep so must not be broken or cut off in the moving. Transplanting young, smaller-sized plants gives best results. Nurseries and mail-order catalogs commonly offer healthy, well-established plants; this is the best method to obtain starter plants. Because these are slow to show growth in the spring, permanently mark these plants in the garden to prevent their being stepped on or dug up by mistake.

In the wild, Butterfly Weed commonly grows in thin, dry, usually sandy soils. In the garden with somewhat richer soil and more moisture, plants form lush clumps and produce an abundance of flower clusters. Take caution, however, for in a too-rich, moisture-retaining soil, the roots will rot. Good drainage is absolutely essential for this plant. If your soil is not naturally sandy, work in a couple of shovelfuls of sand or small pea gravel per plant to guarantee good drainage. This plant is perfectly hardy once established and within two or three years will have formed a large, spectacular clump under good garden conditions. To get the most bloom from Butterfly Weed, after the first flowering is over, trim back a healthy thriving clump to about four inches from the ground. The plant will resprout and bloom again two or three months later.

NOTE: Well named, Butterfly Weed is an excellent nectar producer and attracts multitudes of butterflies of many different species throughout the flowering period. Butterfly Weed may occasionally be used as a larval food plant by the Monarch (Danaus plexippus) and the Queen (D. gilippus thersippus) but is not preferred because of the tough, stiff-haired leaves and its low concentration of poisonous chemicals.

RELATED SPECIES: Almost all species of Asclepias produce showy clusters of flowers and are attractive to butterflies. Some others that are excellent for use in the garden as nectar sources include the pale pink to dark rose-colored Common Milkweed (A. syriaca), Purple Milkweed (A. purpurascens), Swamp Milkweed (A. incarnata), and the snowy-blossomed White-flowered Milkweed (A. variegata). The cultivated Tropical Milkweed (A. curassavica), with two-toned red and orange flowers, is easy to raise from seeds, forming nice plants and producing flowers about five months after early-spring sowing. It is root hardy only in the Rio Grande Valley area but is easy to grow as an annual or in pots or tubs to be brought inside during the freezing months elsewhere. If kept over winter, it will begin producing flowers earlier in the year (or, in many instances, bloom all year). It is an especially good nectar producer as well as a favored larval food plant.

A tall, stately, short-lived perennial, one of the most striking wildflowers, demanding center stage wherever planted. Leaves a deep, dark green, massed along the stem beneath a long spike of brilliant scarlet, two-lipped flowers.

CULTIVATION: Seeds of Cardinal Flower are extremely small, and viability is not very dependable, although new plants can be expected to crop up around the garden. The best method for increasing plants of this beauty is by layering. Choose an outer stem, gently bend to the ground, scratch the soil beneath a node, and then lay a rock across the stem at the node. It will root at the nodes along the stem. When well rooted, clip from the mother plant between each rooted node, and plant each section in the garden where wanted. Every two or three years, in early spring or late fall, the old clump can be dug and the vigorous outer portions sectioned off and replanted.

Cardinal Flower is generally a flower of marshes, bogs, floodplains, and stream banks. It likes moisture, but it also adapts. It can be found growing from between layers of limestone along Hill Country streams, and with a bit of extra moisture it does quite well in the home garden.

The growth of this plant is directly related to its habitat. If it is in a very shaded location, it will need less moisture but will remain low. It grows taller in rich soil and with abundant moisture. And in this moister environment, if it receives a half a day or more of sun, it will produce the lushest foliage, the greatest abundance of flowers, and a lot of nectar. If given afternoon or dappled shade, the flowers will be more brilliant in coloring. Each plant of Cardinal Flower will produce only one stalk of flowers, so for best effect in the garden, group three to five plants together. Mulch around plants and surrounding area to retain moisture.

The flower color of this plant is so dramatic that its companion plants should be subtle and softly hued. Gregg’s Mistflower (Conoclinium dissectum); late-flowering lavender, pink, or white Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata); Pickerel Weed (Pontederia cordata); Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata); and a pale yellow-flowered goldenrod (Solidago spp.) would blend beautifully.

One of the “everlasting” plants, an annual favored by many species of butterflies; stems simple, purplish, usually much-branched, swollen at the nodes. Leaves alternate, bright green, thick, sometimes red-veined, mostly in lower portion of plant. Flowering head consisting of numerous tiny purple flowers backed by stiff scales or bracts, clustered in showy, rounded, or globelike heads, the heads terminal on long, slender stalks.

CULTIVATION: As Globe Amaranth is a common annual, the best method to obtain plants is by purchasing seeds from a favorite nursery or catalog. If at all possible, purchase the older purplish-flowered form.

Most nurseries offer this plant in the spring, but often they are “improved” forms; although the newer colors may be unique or “prettier” and the plants shorter, the older, taller form offers the most nectar.

Seeds should be planted around mid-March, and as soon as true leaves show, pot singly. After last frost, place in a permanent position in a bed or border in good garden soil. Or seeds can be planted directly in the garden where wanted after the last frost. Lightly sprinkle a little liquid fertilizer in the planting hole, and then water thoroughly after planting to settle soil around roots. Keep plants moderately moist during the growing season. For longer flowering, keep spent flower heads removed. The old-fashioned form of this plant usually readily reseeds, so new plants are available the following spring.

NOTE: When flowers are at their peak of color, the stems can be clipped and hung upside down to dry in a cool, dark place. The flowers retain their color after drying (thus the “everlasting” name) and are most attractive in dried arrangements.

The perfect perennial ground cover within its range, with long, wiry, trailing stems rooting at the nodes and forming solid mats. Leaves small, compound, blue-green, thickly covered with silvery-gray hairs giving the plant an airy, lacy look. Flowers numerous, small, reddish-lavender to purple, nestling throughout foliage.

CULTIVATION: Gregg’s Dalea is easily rooted from softwood cuttings taken in midsummer. Dip four- to six-inch cuttings in a rooting hormone, spray a growing medium until moist, and place the pot in an open plastic bag. Keep soil moist until cuttings are rooted. When placed in the garden, shade plants a few days until well established.

This dalea is not too particular about soil; it grows and thrives in sand, loam, or rocky limestone. Soils must be well drained, and at no time should these plants be overwatered. In fall after the first frost or in spring before the first new growth, shear plants to a couple of inches above ground level. Shearing back in summer if foliage becomes too leggy or leafless will result in denser, lush foliage. Keep this one dry during the winter or plants may rot.

NOTE: Over time, healthy specimens of Gregg’s Dalea form a thick, woody base, becoming almost a subshrub. This is one of the larval food plants of the Reakirt’s Blue (Echinargus isola).

A perennial from creeping roots, eventually forming extensive colonies but easily controlled. Leaves opposite, pale green, finely cut or lobed into fanlike sections, becoming smaller toward top of stem. Flowers pale lavender-blue, congested in small head, the heads several and forming terminal cluster on long, leafless stalks.

CULTIVATION: Obtaining new additions of Gregg’s Mistflower is no problem. It continually sends out underground runners, and one plant quickly becomes a colony. If new colonies are wanted, simply dig or pull rooted sections and plant. The rooted section will bloom the first year, and a nice colony will have become established by the second year.

It also reseeds profusely, and new plants will appear throughout the garden. Even with all this abundant reproduction, these plants are easily contained by simply pulling out the outside or unwanted shoots.

Gregg’s Mistflower can grow in native soils but will be much lusher and produce more flowers in average garden soils and with a bit of added moisture.

The soft colors of these flowers will blend with just about anything, but especially soft pinks to dark rose, purples, and pale yellows.

NOTE: Not noticeably fragrant, these blossoms do attract every species of butterfly around, especially the Queen (Danaus gilippus thersippus). At times the flowers themselves can hardly be seen for the many Queens flying about.

Upright to spreading or sprawling, woody-based perennial or low shrub; usually deciduous in upper portion of range and dies to the ground each fall, but remains evergreen and flowering in more southern regions. Leaves rough, prickly, densely covering lower portions of stems, upper stem portion leafless. Flowers orange-yellow, daisylike, tipping upper stems, extending well above foliage.

CULTIVATION: Hispid Wedelia is usually offered at native plant sales and by nurseries carrying native plants and is the best way to get a “start” of this plant. Once growing and flowering well, it usually reseeds, although sparingly, and these seedlings can be transplanted when small. Older plants do not transplant well because the root is too deep.

Seeds can be gathered from the wild by collecting thoroughly dry seed heads in late summer before they disintegrate. Break heads apart after gathering, and let the pieces dry for few more days; then either plant immediately or store in a sealed container until the following spring.

Three- to four-inch semihardwood tip cuttings can be taken from large, healthy plants in midsummer to fall. Dip in rooting powder, and place cuttings in a peat/perlite mixture. Keep moist but not soaking wet until rooted. Pot or permanently plant immediately after roots appear. Fall-rooted cuttings will need to be carried over winter in a protected area. If larger, established plants must be moved, do so in winter after cutting back. Water well after moving.

These plants are generally long-lived and, other than mildly reseeding, are no problem in a garden bed or border. With trimming, they work well as edgings. Easily cultivated, they grow equally well in extremely dry or moist situations but produce more flowers with adequate watering.

NOTE: Hispid Wedelia is one of the larval food plants for the Bordered Patch (Chlosyne lacinia adjutrix).

Low, mounded, or sprawling annual. Leaves mostly in basal portion of plant, becoming smaller and clasping in upper portion of stem. Flower heads fragrant, yellow, solitary, and terminal on long, slender stalks; tips of ray flowers conspicuously squared and notched.

CULTIVATION: Huisache Daisy is an excellent plant for drier sites and grows best in sandy, limestone, or chalky soil. It grows very well in rocky soil and disturbed habitats. This plant will not be found in nurseries but readily reproduces from seeds. For a naturalized area, gather seeds from a choice plant, and sow in raked soil in late fall for flowering plants the following season. For use in the beds, seeds can be planted where wanted or young plants can be transplanted one to two feet apart. These plants need no fertilizer. Keep moist until they are growing well, and then water only occasionally for best growth and bloom. When so treated, the plants stay mounded until late summer, when they begin to sprawl. Keep all seed heads clipped or pinched off until late fall for the plants to keep producing flowers. These plants reseed very well, and a plentiful supply of plants for the garden should be available if the September flowers are allowed to make seeds.

Use these plants in groupings scattered throughout the beds or as an edging. They are especially attractive among rocks or pieces of weathered wood. They are also a good choice for hillsides, slopes, or natural areas, alone or in combination with other natives.

NOTE: In the wild, Huisache Daisy grows in colonies; when the plants are in flower, the entire area becomes almost intoxicating with the delightful fragrance. Many species of butterflies are attracted to the plants by the scent and stay around to sample the nectar.

Stiffly upright, robust perennial, often forming large colonies. Leaves thick, conspicuously veined, arranged in a whorl around the purplish or reddish stem, which is usually hollow. Flowers in large masses, bright lilac-pink to purple or brownish-lavender, held in broadly rounded or dome-shaped terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: Bedding plants of Joe-Pye Weed may be easily obtained from seeds. Best results are from seeds gathered in late August or as soon as mature and sown immediately or no later than mid-September for germination the following spring. Plants from seeds sown in flats indoors in late winter will be ready to transplant into the garden after the last frost. This plant is now frequently offered in the nursery trade.

Usually growing in well-drained marshy or boggy areas, Joe-Pye Weed grows quite well in rich, loamy garden soil but needs a bit of extra moisture. If allowed to dry out, especially during the hot, dry summer months, plants quickly die. Place near a dripping faucet, or, better yet, combine with other moisture lovers, such as Blue Waterleaf (Hydrolea ovata), Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Salt-marsh Mallow (Kosteletzkya virginica), Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Swamp Sunflower (Helianthus angustifolius), the vine Climbing Hempweed (Mikania scandens), and various mistflowers (Conoclinium spp.). Use two or three species in a bed of their own, work in lots of well-rotted humus, mulch deeply, and give them a separate soaker hose that can be run more often than the other ones in the garden.

Joe-Pye Weed eventually forms a nice clump of several stems. Once the plant has become well established, the clump can be lifted and divided either in fall or early spring just as new growth appears. Dig the clump, and cut or separate with a large, sharp knife, leaving one stem and a portion of the fibrous roots in each section. Replant immediately and water well.

Use these majestic plants at the back of the border, allowing at least three feet between plants. If the bed is in the open, plant Joe-Pye Weed in the middle, using lower-growing plants on either side. If in an excessively windy or exposed site, staking may be necessary. Naturally adapted to filtered sunlight, if given plenty of moisture and good drainage, Joe-Pye Weed grows even better in full sun and does not become quite as tall.

NOTE: Almost all of the large butterflies such as Swallowtails (family Papilionidae), Sulphurs (family Pieridae), Common Buckeye (Junonia coenia), Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae incarnata), Monarch (Danaus plexippus), Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui), and Red Admiral (V. atalanta rubria) commonly nectar on Joe-Pye Weed.

Upright, widely branched, robust annual. Leaves and stems velvety. Flowers large, vivid, orange-scarlet, terminal on long, hollow branches.

CULTIVATION: Mexican Sunflower is very easy to grow from seeds. Seeds will need to be ordered from catalogs, as they are not generally offered by nurseries. Although fast growing, this plant takes three or four months to begin flowering, so it is best to start seeds as early as possible. Plant seeds in flats or individually sectioned cartons indoors in late February for transplanting to the garden after the last frost or freeze date.

In the garden, place Mexican Sunflower in full sun. Water well with a root stimulator when setting into the beds, and fertilize occasionally during the entire growing season. Do not let plants wilt from lack of water, but be careful not to give too much moisture or fertilizer, which will cause lush, weak growth, and the plant will fall or break. Staking is sometimes necessary because branches are hollow; strong winds can easily bend or break the plants.

Use Mexican Sunflower at the back of the border, allowing plenty of room to expand. Crowding will cause it to drop the lower leaves and be rather unsightly. It works equally well in a solid border, as a screen, or as a hedge.

Once it is growing in the garden, leave a few choice flowers to mature seeds for the following year. Otherwise, keep seed heads clipped for more abundant flowering. In some areas this plant readily reseeds, but do not depend on this.

Despite its few drawbacks, Mexican Sunflower is an easily grown plant, produces over a long period, is very floriferous, and makes an absolutely spectacular splash in the garden.

NOTE: As far as butterflies are concerned, you cannot have too many Mexican Sunflowers. They are an excellent nectar source, and butterflies literally swarm around them continuously. All of the Swallowtails (family Papilionidae), Sulphurs (family Pieridae), Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae incarnata), Red Admiral (Vanessa atalanta rubria), Monarch (Danaus plexippus), and Queen (D. gilippus thersippus) seem especially attracted. Its foliage is readily eaten by larvae of the Bordered Patch (Chlosyne lacinia adjutrix). The original, orange-flowered cultivar “Torch” is shown here.

RELATED SPECIES: The cultivars ‘Sundance,’ a three-foot form; ‘Goldfinger,’ a twenty-four- to thirty-inch form; and ‘Yellow Torch,’ a three- to four-foot yellow-flowered version of the original ‘Torch,’ have recently been offered by the trade. Butterflies seem to prefer the orange-colored ones to the yellow.

Upright to somewhat sprawling, many-branched annual or perennial herb, becoming woody near base. Leaves opposite, conspicuously veined, dark green. Flowers five-lobed, trumpet-shaped, numerous, and borne in rounded terminal clusters from upper portion of stem.

CULTIVATION: This short-lived native of tropical Africa has numerous clusters of starlike flowers, adding wonderful drifts of bright color to gardens all year long in some areas and from early spring until hard freezes in others. It is usually obtained from nurseries.

Pentas may be planted in full sun if given plenty of moisture, but ideally it should receive morning sun and open, dappled shade during the hottest part of the day. Its flowers are such favorites that butterflies continuously nectar from even the lightly shaded plants, feeding from them until almost dark every day.

Although tolerant of a fairly wide range of growing conditions, Pentas like a deep, rich garden loam with excellent drainage and like moisture when the ground dries out. Well-rotted barnyard manure is an excellent fertilizer when applied in moderation.

In the extreme southernmost regions, Pentas may be evergreen, eventually becoming almost shrublike. In other areas, new plants can be purchased each spring and treated as annuals. Often Pentas is listed and sold as a greenhouse or indoor plant, and it is a wonderful subject when used this way. If you want to carry your garden plants over the winter instead of purchasing anew each spring, lift them from the garden in early fall, trim back if needed, pot them, and bring inside to be placed in a sunny window. Fertilize lightly during the winter months.

New plants for potting can also be obtained by taking tip cuttings in early fall and rooting in either water or a peat and soil mix. Repot in a mixture of loam, sand, and peat after they are well rooted. Set winter plants in the garden after the soil becomes thoroughly warm in spring, or gradually expose them to outside conditions and leave in the pots for patio or porch use. Whether indoors or out, after the plants have begun to show good growth, pinch out all growing tips for low, bushier plants that will produce even more flowering clusters.

In the garden, massed plantings of Pentas produce the most striking effects and of course attract the most butterflies. Cluster them in groupings of six to ten plants intermittently throughout the border, edge a walk or driveway, or use extravagantly along the edge of a wooded area or in a solid bed of their own. Flower color is usually a vibrant pink, rose, magenta, or red, so use Pentas with the more subtle colors of pink-flowered Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima), Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata), White-flowered Plumbago (Plumbago scandens), Gregg’s Mist-flower (Conoclinium dissectum), or yellow-flowered columbines (Aquilegia spp.).

NOTE: Try to find the old-fashioned, red-flowered form of Pentas if possible—they are shrublike, attain a height of four feet, live up to seven years, are hardier, and bear more nectar. These can easily be started from seeds.

Upright, leafy, several-stemmed annual or biennial. Leaves soft, sticky. Flowers numerous, small, blue to purplish, borne in conspicuously coiled terminal clusters that uncurl as flowers open.

CULTIVATION: As Phacelia is not commonly available either from nurseries or seed dealers, seeds will almost surely have to be gathered from a wild source. Since Phacelia begins opening flowers at the base of the curled racemes and continues for some time, seeds will be mature in the basal capsules of the spike while the tip is still in tightly coiled buds, so flowering plants must be watched closely. Collect seeds when the first basal capsules have begun to split open.

To collect seeds, clip only the most mature racemes, and only one from each plant, allowing plenty to remain in the wild for reseeding. Keep racemes in an open paper bag a few days for seeds to continue maturing and drying. Most viable capsules open within a week. Shake the plant against the bag to loosen all the seeds, and then store them in the refrigerator until time to plant. After all danger of frost is past, plant seeds in prepared beds where plants are to remain. Thin as soon as plants are three or four inches high, but do not wait long to transplant, as older plants do not like being moved.

Phacelia grows well in many soil types but does best in a loose, rich soil. Place it where it will receive morning or late afternoon sun, but do not expose it to hot midday sun. Keep it moist and fertilize occasionally. A good mulch helps keep roots cool and retains moisture.

Phacelia readily reseeds itself each year, so once plants are established, yearly seed collecting and sowing should not be necessary. Simply transplant new seedlings to the desired sites each spring. Germination is much better in disturbed ground, so each fall scratch or rake the ground thoroughly around the plants.

Phacelia is most effective when displayed in groups of several plants to form large masses. It is lovely combined with Prairie Verbena (Glandularia bipinnatifida), Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Scarlet Muskflower (Nyctaginia capitata), Western Peppergrass (Lepidium alyssoides), or various columbines (Aquilegia spp.). Clumps of Phacelia in front of shrubs such as Cherry Sage (Salvia greggii), Beebrush (Aloysia gratissima), Texas Kidneywood (Eysenhardtia texana), and Agarita (Mahonia trifoliolata) make an impressive showing.

Strictly upright, stout, smooth aquatic perennial from creeping rootlike rhizome, rooted in mud, usually forming colonies. Leaves and flowering spike extending above water. Leaves long, thick, glossy, deeply notched at base and forming long lobes. Flowers violet-blue, small, numerous, congested in slender, elongating spikes at tip of long stalk.

CULTIVATION: These plants can possibly be started from fully ripened seeds but not from cuttings. First plants of Pickerel Weed should be purchased at a nursery specializing in native or aquatic plants. After becoming fully established and putting forth new shoots, the plants can be taken up and divided, either to obtain new plants or to keep the original plant in bounds. They can easily be divided even when in full bloom without damage if done carefully and replanted immediately. Under good growing conditions, Pickerel Weed may possibly overcrowd other plants in a small pond but would never be considered aggressive.

When placing these in a home pond, prepare soil to a depth of at least four to six inches. Soils can be acidic, lime, sandy, or clay. A soil comparable to that of a rich floodplain would be ideal, or use a good garden soil with a small addition of clay. Plants can be left in their own separate pots if desired.

Pickerel Weed can be used alone or in company with the taller-growing Powdery Thalia (Thalia dealbata), Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Lizard’s-tail (Saururus cernuus), Spider Lily (Hymenocallis liriosme), or sagittarias (Sagittaria spp.), as well as floating plants of Floating-heart (Nymphoides aquatica), Bogmoss (Mayaca aubletii), or various Water-lilies (Nymphaea spp.).

Stiffly upright, unbranched perennial somewhat rough to the touch, growing from a woody corm or rootstock. Leaves narrow, in dense grasslike basal clump and along stem, becoming smaller toward flowering spike. Flowers lavender to dark purple, in small heads, the heads numerous and densely crowded in a long, slender, wandlike spike; flowers open from tip downward, the flowering period lasting for a month or more.

CULTIVATION: Prairie Liatris may be obtained either from seeds or corms or as potted nursery plants. After flowering, spikes usually remain green until after the first frost or two; then the purplish pappus hairs on the seed begin changing to a grayish-white as they become dry and fluffy. After the entire stalk has taken on this fluffy appearance, clip the entire seed portion and place in an open paper bag. Place it in a warm, dry place for a few days to become completely dry. Seeds should then be easy to remove by shaking or hitting the spike against the side of the sack. Removing fluff or other debris is not necessary unless desired. Place seeds in a dry container, and store in the refrigerator. Seeds may be planted in flats in the house or greenhouse in late winter and then transplanted to pots after three or four leaves have developed. Transplant to the garden in May or early June. Better germination may come from seeds a year or two old.

A simpler planting method is to clip the dried seed spike, lay the entire stalk on the ground, cover with soil, and mark the spot well. Seedlings (which resemble grass or onions) should come up the following spring. After seedlings have developed true leaves, transplant to permanent places in the garden, spacing at least two feet apart. Plant in groups of five to seven or farther apart for the best show of flowers. Give the plants good to moderately rich, well-drained soils in full sun. They like a bit of moisture now and then, but soggy winter soils cause the corms to rot. Depending on growing conditions, plants may become so tall and top-heavy that staking may be needed. Do this early because the spikes may bend or twist and, once twisted, will not straighten even if staked.

The purple flowers of Prairie Liatris are absolutely spectacular in late summer when combined with other nectar-rich plants such as pink-flowered Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii), Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), Bush Sunflower (Simsia calva), Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata), Tooth-leaved Goldeneye (Viguiera dentata), Golden Crownbeard (Verbesina encelioides), Hispid Wedelia (Wedelia acapulcensis var. hispida), Pentas (Pentas lanceolata), White-flowered Plumbago (Plumbago scandens), Two-leaved Senna (Senna roemeriana), or goldenrods (Solidago spp.).

NOTE: There are many native species of Liatris in the state. Choose the showiest ones in your area, and use them lavishly, for they take only a small amount of space in the garden and butterflies absolutely flock to them during the entire time of blooming. The flowering period is somewhat variable, depending on species and climatic and garden conditions.

Low-growing, sprawling or trailing, evergreen, short-lived perennial, blooming almost all year; sometimes dies out in winter from extreme cold. Leaves ferny, deeply incised. Flower clusters of numerous, short-tubed, five-petaled, lavender to pale purple blossoms rising above foliage; almost cover the ground-hugging plants; flower clusters flat to roundish when first opening, with the cluster continually elongating as new flowers open; nectar-producing clusters of small purple flowers a virtual feast for butterflies.

CULTIVATION: Prairie Verbena readily establishes itself in the garden from wind-blown seeds, and these new little plants are easily transplanted where wanted anytime throughout the growing season. They will bloom the first season and can become a three-foot or larger mass by season’s end.

These plants can also be propagated by layering. Scratch or loosen the soil beneath the nodes on an elongated branch that is already lying on the ground. Press each node into the loosened soil, cover lightly with soil, and lay a small rock on top of the branch to hold the branch in firm contact with the soil. When nodes show healthy roots, clip apart between each node, replanting each rooted node. Plant in full sun, in almost any soil, but plants will

For best and most continuous flowering, keep spent, elongating flower clusters clipped off so the plant does not make seeds. Do not pamper these plants with extra fertilizer, excessive watering, or extra-rich soils.

The lavender coloring of these flowers blends with almost any color combination in the garden or in the wild. In the garden they are especially lovely backed by white, soft yellow, or pink-colored flowers. The plant can be used almost anywhere—as a border edging, in hanging pots, or trailing over a wall. Wherever used, the butterflies will find it and visit frequently.

A hardy, stocky, long-lived perennial. Leaves long, dark green, rough, mostly in a basal clump. Flowers large, four inches, sunflower-like, pink to dark rose, borne in abundance atop slender stems; central disk or cone consists of numerous small, bright golden-bronze flowers surrounded by numerous ray flowers of purplish-pink; flower heads particularly long lasting, often remaining in good condition a month or more.

CULTIVATION: The Purple Coneflower offered by nurseries and through catalogs is simply an “improved” form of one of the native species. The most common cultivar, ‘Bright Star,’ has dark pink flowers, but white-, red-, and purple-flowered forms are also available.

If cultivars are wanted, purchase them as small potted seedlings for spring planting—they will flower the first year. If plants are already established in the garden, even more plants can be obtained by digging a two- or three-year-old clump in the fall and dividing. After digging, shake the dirt loose and gently separate the multiple crowns into separate sections, making sure each section includes several well-developed roots. Replant divisions with tips about one inch below the soil surface. Water thoroughly. For best growth and flowering effect, space plants eighteen to twenty-four inches apart, and divide every three or four years. These plants die back to ground level each winter and are late to leaf out in the spring.

It is always best to start the native species from seeds. Tag a flowering plant, and return four or five weeks later. Give the cones plenty of time to mature and to loosen the seeds, for cones are prickly when dry and not pleasant to work with. Bend ripe seed heads over an open paper bag and knock against the sides to loosen seeds, or clip the cone from the plant and shake vigorously in the bag. Some seeds will remain in the seed head, so scatter heads around the mother plant for natural propagation. Immediately after harvesting, sow gathered seeds in a prepared seedbed and mark well. Seedlings should appear the following spring. Move to permanent places in the garden when four true leaves appear. Seeds can also be held over for planting in spring. If started after the last frost, plants should bloom by fall.

Although flowering stalks of Purple Coneflower are tall and slender, wind does not seem to bother them. This plant can survive in dry, droughty soil but thrives best in well-drained, fertile, somewhat limy soil, so work a handful of limestone amendments around each plant in the spring. Plant in full sun. Purple Coneflower tolerates some light shade but will become somewhat taller and scraggly, and the color will be paler. If not given good drainage, plants will simply rot away; if there is any doubt, add a shovelful of sand to each planting hole.

Scatter Purple Coneflowers in small groups throughout the middle of a bed or border. For a truly stunning effect, try planting taller native ones at the back of a group of cultivars and border with Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) or verbenas (Verbena spp.). The natives are also very drought tolerant and wonderful used in naturalized plantings.

Upright, stout, lush, deeply rooted, solitary-stemmed annual, branching in upper portion. Leaves alternate, gray-green, downy, toothed along margin, exuding sticky resin. Flower heads, small, pinkish-purple, forming numerous flat-topped clusters. Seeds numerous, narrow, black, ridged. All parts of this plant emit a strong, pungent, or unpleasant scent when disturbed.

CULTIVATION: Purple Marsh-fleabane willnaturally be found inhabiting low moist sites such as swales and depressions and along borders of resacas, lakes, and marshes. In a cultivated site it will tolerate drier situations but will need to be placed where moisture can be given when needed.

The best and easiest method for propagation is to gather old flowering clusters after they become tannish and fluffy. Clip the entire cluster, hold it over a container, and shake the seeds loose. Keep the cluster in an open container for few days for more seeds to mature. Sow some seeds immediately where plants are wanted; plant other seeds in fall if needed. They can also be started indoors in pots or flats, using moist potting soil. Seeds usually germinate readily, and plants grow quickly. Once started, plants will self-reproduce by rhizomes and form colonies.

NOTE: Purple Marsh-fleabane may not be a plant for the border but is a strong butterfly attractant if growing in a more “wilderness-like” area, such as along the edge of a large pond or around outbuildings if moisture can be provided. If any place can be found for this plant, it should be used. When in flower, it is usually covered by several species of butterflies and is continually used throughout the day.

Robust, upright, shrublike, herbaceous perennial from tough roots. Stems thick, much-branched, usually several and fast growing, quickly forming large clump. Leaves large, gray-green, somewhat rough to the touch. Flowers large, cupped, shell pink to soft rose, borne in terminal portion of leafy stems and branches; last only a day, with new flowers opening each morning.

CULTIVATION: Blooming from late spring to early fall, the softly colored and attractive blossoms of this little-used native perennial are a welcome contrast to the usual reds and yellows of the garden. Naturally occurring in saline soils along brackish coastal marshes, Salt-marsh Mallow performs admirably under ordinary garden conditions throughout the coastal portion of the state. The tough roots grow deep, so plants usually require no additional watering except during really dry periods. Plant in good but sandy soil—if the soil is not already sandy, add a couple of shovelfuls to each planting hole. Yearly additions of compost (along with natural deterioration of the mulch) provide all the added nutrients needed. Mulching is very important, so apply fresh material as often as needed to help keep the roots cool. If fertilizing, do so sparingly, as plants can easily be burned and can also be caused to produce foliage instead of flowers. An exposure of full sun is ideal; plants in the shade will be weak, leggy, and with only a few pale flowers. Place plants at least four feet apart, allowing plenty of room to spread.

Potted plants of Salt-marsh Mallow are occasionally sold by nurseries offering native plants. New plants are easy to grow from seeds. Each section of the five-part, brown capsule contains a dark brown seed. Collect capsules after they begin to split open. These seeds are frequently attacked by weevils, so put seeds in a glass or plastic container along with a portion of insect strip, seal, and store in a dark closet for a couple of weeks. At end of the two weeks, remove the strip and store seeds in the refrigerator until spring. Plant seeds in a marked location in the garden after soil has become thoroughly warm. Seedlings should be well rooted and large enough to transplant to permanent locations in the garden six to eight weeks later. Weekly applications of a very weak, all-purpose liquid fertilizer hasten seedling growth. New plants can also be started by taking tip cuttings before flowering begins and rooting in a sand and perlite medium. Even first-year plants, whether from seeds or cuttings, can be expected to flower modestly. Once the root system is well developed, vegetative growth is vigorous and flowering profuse.

Use Salt-marsh Mallow in liberal masses in the border, where butterflies can easily find its lovely pink blossoms. A single large grouping against a fence draped in Autumn Clematis (Clematis paniculata), Climbing Hempweed (Mikania scandens), or Queen’s Wreath (Antigon leptopus) can be spectacular. It is late to break dormancy so can be interplanted with shallow-rooted spring- and early-summer-flowering plants.

For complementary fall companions, try Mexican Orchid Tree (Bauhinia mexicana), Sweet Almond Verbena (Aloysia virgata), Wright’s Snakeroot (Ageratina wrightii), Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata), or goldenrods (Solidago spp.), mistflowers (Conoclinium spp.), or some of the blue-colored salvias (Salvia spp.).

Strong, stocky, succulent perennial. Leaves thick, leathery, silvery-green. Flowers numerous, small, glowing pink, tightly compacted into large, flattish, terminal clusters; deepen into darker hues with age.

CULTIVATION: Sedum is not readily propagated from seeds, but plants are available from almost all local nurseries and through catalogs. Many different growth forms and colors are available, but for butterflies the taller ones are the best. Also, butterflies do not seem to be very fond of the spring-flowering yellow one or the red-flowered form ‘Autumn Joy.’ For best results, stick to the tall-growing, mass-flowering, pink-flowered sedums.

Sedum is exceptionally easy to grow, requiring little or no attention, and plants may be left undisturbed for years. They do best when planted in infertile, gravelly soils with excellent drainage. Under ideal conditions flower clusters reach dinner-plate size. Be careful not to overfertilize or overwater these plants, or growth will become too lush and succulent, plants will sprawl and break, and only a few flowers will be produced, if any at all. Under good growing conditions, Sedum is usually hardy, practically insect- and disease-free, and, once well established, actually quite drought tolerant.

Flower color is the brightest when Sedum grows in full sun. Sedum tolerates some light shade, but stems are generally weaker, and flowers are fewer and paler in color.

To increase the number of plants, lift and divide clumps in the spring. Place new divisions in small groups, spacing the divisions eighteen to twenty inches apart. Stem cuttings can also be taken in summer. As soon as they are rooted, place cuttings in the garden in permanent locations. They will bloom the following year. Once established, Sedum does not like to be moved, so unless new plants are needed, leave clumps undisturbed.

In the border, Sedum blends beautifully with Hispid Wedelia (Wedelia acapulcensis var. hispida), Tooth-leaved Goldeneye (Viguiera dentata), Lindheimer’s Senna (Senna lindheimeri), New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), Texas Aster (S. drummondii var. texana), Tahoka Daisy (Machaeranthera tanacetifolia), Plains Zinnia (Zinnia grandiflora), or verbenas (Verbena spp.), liatris (Liatris spp.), goldenrods (Solidago spp.), and mistflowers (Conoclinium spp.). It is especially lovely planted in great masses in front of shrubs such as Beebrush (Aloysia gratissima), Blue Mistshrub (Caryopteris incana), Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii), Texas Kidneywood (Eysenhardtia texana), and Wright’s Snakeroot (Ageratina wrightii).

NOTE: This sedum is one of the best cultivated late fall-flowering plants for attracting butterflies. It draws in just about every species still flying at the time of its flowering. Insects frequently use the large, flat flower clusters for basking as well as nectaring. The cultivar ‘Meteor’ is shown here.

Lush, robust, square-stemmed perennial, forming colonies. Leaves large, opposite, emitting a strong minty fragrance when crushed. Flowers numerous, lavender to rose-pink, tubular, forming flat, terminal clusters, each cluster surrounded by several green, leaflike bracts.

CULTIVATION: If given proper growing conditions, Showy Bergamot can be a spectacular plant for the garden. And considering its attractiveness to butterflies, it is well worth whatever extra effort is necessary. Well-established plants or dormant roots are readily obtained from nurseries or from catalogs, and this is the best method for obtaining a start. Many different color forms are available in the cultivars, ranging from pure white to darkest purple to the scarlet of the wild, native form.

Propagation of more plants can be by seeds, cuttings, or root division. Seeds are usually mature three or four weeks after flowers fall. Sow seeds indoors in January, using a good potting mixture and barely covering the seeds with soil. Seedlings are slow growing and benefit from occasional applications of a starter solution. Transfer plants to the garden as soon as all danger of frost has passed and three or four true leaves are showing. Seeds may be sown directly in the garden in spring or early summer for flowering plants the following year.

When well-established clumps have obtained a growth of six to eight inches in the spring, pinch or clip each new shoot back to three or four inches. This will cause the plants to form several new branches and will ensure a lower-growing and bushier plant. This also provides cuttings for new plants. Strip the lower leaves from the pinched tips, dip stems in rooting powder, and place in clay pots filled with a good rooting mixture. Sink pots in the ground where they can be watered frequently and will receive humidity. Cuttings should be rooted in four or five weeks and can then be transferred to the garden.

Showy Bergamot spreads by shallow underground runners, and new plants can be obtained by simply lifting one of the young plants along with a good ball of soil. Mature clumps can be divided in early spring before new shoots appear. If Showy Bergamot spreads more than desired, when replanting, place three or four plants in a large fifteen- or twenty-gallon plastic pot with the bottom removed and sink to ground level.

These hardy plants like continually moist soils during the growing season, and their lushness of foliage and amount of flowering depend on how much moisture they get. Try using them in a raised bed with rich, loamy, well-drained soil full of organic matter such as peat moss or leaf mold. Add sand for drainage if necessary. Mulch heavily and use a soaker hose. With extra watering, Showy Bergamot becomes spectacular even in full sun instead of the usually recommended semishade. Keep faded flowers clipped to prolong flowering.

Strong, clump-forming perennial. Leaves dark green, leathery, in dense rosettes. Flowers in tight four- to five-inch clusters, large, lavender or blue-violet, atop long, leafy stems, with one flower head opening at a time; flower heads surrounded by numerous stiff, leaflike bracts.

CULTIVATION: Stokes Aster is a very hardy, easily grown plant that often remains evergreen in the southeastern portion of the state. It is another of the wildings that has been “improved” for lower growth, longer flowering, and a generally darker flower color. It is a common native in the southeastern states, ranging naturally as far west as central Louisiana.

Whether seeds are gathered from the wild or cultivars are purchased from catalogs or nurseries, the growing methods are the same. Do not be in a hurry to collect the seeds, for it will probably be at least two months after the petals fall from the head before seeds are mature. Once the bracts curl away from the head, clip the fruiting spikes and hang them head down in a paper bag. Let them air-dry for several days. Shake vigorously and crush the heads if necessary. The seeds may be sown directly in the garden in late spring.

Once a few plants are established, new plants are easily obtained by divisions, since the clumps should be divided every three or four years to maintain vigor. In the spring or fall, take up the clump and with a sharp knife divide the clump into sections, leaving plenty of roots with each section. Replant all sections immediately, watering in well.

Stokes Aster generally grows best and produces the most flowers with open, dappled afternoon shade and morning sun. It is not particular about soil but must have excellent drainage. If soil is extra heavy, add a shovelful of coarse sand when planting. This plant is tolerant of heat, drought, and abuse, but it responds with lusher foliage and more and larger flowers if provided a little tender, loving care.

If seeds are not wanted, keep all spent flowers clipped for longer flowering. Once flowering has slowed down, usually in early summer, trim the plant back, and it will bloom again in the fall.

This is a wonderful, low-maintenance plant that makes a beautiful addition to the perennial border, providing a wealth of remarkable long-lasting blooms. Place it near the middle of the border, interplanted with other sun-loving species such as Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa), Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), and Pentas (Pentas lanceolata). Or use this versatile plant in large containers for patio or deck gardening, edging with Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima), Garden Pansy (Viola × wittrockiana), or the purple-flowered Prairie Verbena (Glandularia bipinnatifida).

NOTE: Colors of the cultivars range from white to pink and various blues and lavenders. Butterflies prefer the darker lavenders and pinks, but some of the lighter blues might be tried. If any of the cultivars are advertised as being fragrant, try those.

A robust, upright, clump-forming, long-lived perennial. Leaves pale to dark green, opposite. Flowers trumpet-shaped, numerous, borne in large, somewhat elongated or dome-shaped terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: Summer Phlox is a common native wildflower of the southeastern states that has been “improved.” It is now used frequently in cultivation, and the spectacular clusters of rich color add greatly to the summer border. The flowers are strongly and sweetly scented and lure butterflies like magnets. At any one time, there will usually be a multitude of the insects, of all colors and sizes, for this phlox is well liked by just about every nectar-using butterfly.

Give Summer Phlox an extra-sandy soil, good drainage, full sun, and adequate moisture, and the plants will be absolutely spectacular. If the soil is more compacted, for example, contains a lot of clay, flowering and foliage are still excellent, but plants are much shorter. There seems to be a direct relation between sandy soil producing the tallest growth and compacted soil producing shorter plants.

New plants can be started from seeds, but colors rarely come true and are often muddy or generally undesirable. For new plants it is much better to take cuttings or divide plants. Start four- to six-inch cuttings in May or June, placing them in the garden in fall for flowering plants the following year. As there are large clumps of Summer Phlox wherever it grows, the gardener possessing these plants is usually happy to share a sprout or two. Young offshoots are easily separated from the mother plant and, with good care, will bloom the first year. Space new plants at least two feet apart, and leave them uncrowded. Keep old flowering heads trimmed to prevent seed set and ensure continued bloom. Lift and divide clumps every two or three years.

These plants are susceptible to mildew if not given good air circulation. Use a soaker hose for watering, or lay a regular hose on the ground, keeping foliage as dry as possible at all times. A deep, loose mulching conserves moisture and prevents dirt from splashing on the leaves, which can also cause mildew. Although it is imperative to keep water off the foliage of these plants, a deep, regular watering is absolutely essential during excessively dry periods.

Summer Phlox is the perfect border plant, with its strong, upright growth form and long blooming period. Place the plants in groups toward the back of the border if the soil is sandy or in the middle if the soil is heavier with clay. Combine with other summer- and fall-flowering species such as Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii), Sweet Almond Verbena (Aloysia virgata), White-flowered Plumbago (Plumbago scandens), Globe Thistle (Echinops banaticus), New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), Salt-marsh Mallow (Kosteletzkya virginica), Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia), the single-flowered hollyhocks (Alcea spp.), mistflowers (Conoclinium spp.), and the vines Climbing Hemp-weed (Mikania scandens) and Queen’s Wreath (Antigon leptopus).

NOTE: Phlox paniculata can occasionally be found in local nurseries, but a wider choice will be from catalogs. There are many varieties available, but always choose ones especially noted for fragrance and butterfly usage. Some of them no longer produce abundant nectar.

RELATED SPECIES: Two other native and similar phlox, P. subulata and P. maculata, are also much used by butterflies. They, too, have been “improved,” so selection must be made carefully.

An erect, stout, usually several-stemmed herbaceous perennial, in the wild usually found along the moist edges of creeks and rivers. Leaves opposite, usually upright, mostly smooth, lance-shaped, cover stalks and upper branches. Flowers in short-stalked clusters, pink to purplish (rarely white), forming large masses at top of round, hollow stems. Almost all parts contain milky sap typical of milkweeds, although not as abundantly as with most species.

CULTIVATION: For best growth and most flowers, select a site in full sun in an organically rich, very moist but well-drained soil for this one. Placing it in an especially prepared bed along with Powdery Thalia (Thalia dealbata), Pickerel Weed (Pontederia cordata), Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium fistulosum), and Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) would be ideal.

This plant is now often offered in the trade, which is the best method of obtaining plants. New plants can be started from seeds if collected when the fruiting pods are fully ripe. Seeds need a period of cold stratification for at least two to three weeks. Plant in either fall or early spring. If the soil is warm, the seeds should germinate in one to two weeks. Ordinarily, it takes three years to get flowering plants from seeds.

Root division of healthy, well-established plans in either fall or early spring is a much quicker method for obtaining more flowering plants.

In some situations, Swamp Milkweed may actually spread more than wanted. If this should happen, simply pull or break off any unwanted sprouts. The clumps can be prevented from spreading by planting the original plant in a very large plastic planter with the bottom removed.

NOTE: Swamp Milkweed is a wonderful plant for areas such as a septic field or around water tanks or leaky hoses. It is more tolerant of salt buildup from low-lying or frequently moist areas than most plants. Nectar from these plants appears to be an even better attraction than Butterfly Weed (A. tuberosa) or Tropical Milkweed (A. curassavica), which are hard to beat.

Low annuals, somewhat sprawling or more often forming well-rounded mounds. Leaves pale green, deeply divided, fernlike. Flowers large, purple and yellow, in masses that over-top leaves.

CULTIVATION: Tahoka Daisy is one of the showiest of the western annuals and is easily cultivated. It is easy to grow from seeds and is also now being commonly offered as a container plant in the nursery trade. In the wild this plant generally grows in large colonies or masses and should be used in the garden in this way to attract butterflies. Plant as many as you can possibly allow space for, placing no fewer than five or six in a group—a dozen or more is even better. Plant fourteen to sixteen inches apart for a wonderful solid mass of color. They are excellent in several large containers for patio, deck, or porch plantings. Plant in full sun in any good garden soil, hold the fertilizer and water, keeping them on the light and dry side, and they should perform beautifully. Lighten extra-heavy clay garden soils by adding generous amounts of sand and coarse compost when planting. If an excessive amount of water is given these plants, they eventually “grow” themselves to death, producing a lot of foliage and few flowers.

First peak bloom is usually in May, but if spent flower heads are regularly clipped, a good showing will continue through summer with another peak period in the fall. If spent flowers are not cut, plants will continue flowering but not as abundantly. For a natural effect, scatter seeds in early fall in undisturbed beds, mark well, watch for the ferny rosettes in early spring, and thin as needed. Extra plants can be transplanted to other areas. If seeds are to be sown in the spring, place between paper towels, put towels between two layers of very wet peat moss in a plastic bag, and chill in the refrigerator at least two weeks before planting. As these plants vary in flower color, ranging from a dark royal purple all the way through pinkish to pure white, choose plants whose seeds you want while the plants are in flower.

NOTE: Although used by many species of butterflies, Tahoka Daisy seems to be especially favored by Skippers (family Papilionidae) and Hairstreaks (family Lycaenidae).

A tall, stiff, robust, upright, many-stemmed deciduous perennial with stems branching in upper portion; spreads by underground runners, forming large colonies. Leaves alternate, numerous, rough, pale green, becoming smaller toward flowering portion of stem. Flowers numerous, small, yellow, fragrant, on upperside of branch in flattened racemes forming large terminal cluster.

CULTIVATION: Various species of goldenrod are commonly offered by nurseries and through catalogs, many of them an “improved” variety or cultivar. Be very careful of these—often they have been bred for showiness, and there is no nectar to be had.

Propagation of Tall Goldenrod can be by seeds or stem cuttings. A few weeks after flowering, maturing flower clusters become brown and fluffy. Clip the entire cluster, and place in a paper bag to let seeds become fully mature and thoroughly dry. At this time seeds can be separated and planted individually or seed heads can be divided and sections can be planted outside where plants are wanted. Due to the unpredictability of seed germination, sow generously.

To take stem cuttings, remove the lower leaves from six to eight inches of tip growth, dip in rooting hormone, and place in either a sand/perlite mixture or moist potting soil.

After plants are established, young root sprouts can be separated from the mother plant and new colonies started. Choose the permanent placement of this plant with care. With good soil and full sun it will grow very tall and quickly spread by underground runners to form colonies of several feet across. It continues to spread, the colony becoming larger each year. This is definitely not a plant for a garden border but makes a stunning show in a somewhat isolated place.

NOTE: Individual blossoms of Tall Goldenrod contain little nectar, but the large mass of flowers compensates for this. These plants are a major source of fall nectar for numerous species of butterflies, especially the migrating Monarchs (Danaus plexippus).

More than thirty native species of goldenrod are found in the state, so finding a seed source is not difficult. Butterflies will readily use the one they are most familiar with, so try to use a local species. Tall Goldenrod is the largest, most robust, and aggressive of the natives—there are many smaller ones quite adaptable for use in the garden.

An erect to somewhat spreading or bushy perennial, usually with several woody-based stems; covered in silvery hairs. Leaves numerous, crowded, finely lobed near base. Flower heads yellow, numerous, in branched terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: Thread-leaf Groundsel may be used in the poorest, hottest, and driest portion of the garden and can be started either from seeds or root cuttings. The easiest method is to gather seeds as soon as mature and scatter in late fall in prepared beds where plants are to remain. Thin seedlings to at least three feet apart, transplanting the extras to other locations. Do not crowd this plant, for it likes breathing room. It is not particular about soil but definitely requires good drainage. Rocky or gravelly soil where there is no problem with water retention is ideal. Do not overwater, but occasional extra waterings between rains in the middle of summer keep plants in vigorous flower. The plant ordinarily performs admirably without fertilizing.

Use Thread-leaf Groundsel in groups toward the back of the border or as specimen plantings, maybe in a grouping with rocks or silvery, weathered wood. Plants are extremely hardy under the most trying conditions and, when well grown, form beautiful mounds of true yellow throughout the year. Peak bloom is about mid-April or early May, then again in September, but if spent flower clusters are regularly clipped, there will be continuous color all summer. In protected areas plants may be evergreen, with scattered flowers occurring even during the winter months.

A tall, robust perennial forming colonies. Leaves sunflower-like, occurring opposite on the lower portion of the stalk, becoming alternate in upper portion. Flower heads numerous, golden-yellow, forming loose clusters at tips of long, slender branches.

CULTIVATION: The best method for obtaining Thread-leaved Goldeneye for the garden is by gathering the dry, stiff, seedlike achenes when dark brown and fully mature. Place “seeds” in an open paper bag for a few days until they are completely dry. Plant in prepared beds in late September or when good fall rains begin. Seeds can be held over and planted in the spring, but more robust plants producing the most flowers come from fall-planted seeds.

Goldeneye grows beautifully in its native limestone soil of Central and West Texas but will grow admirably in good garden soil past its normal range. In more northern areas, give it a protective, loose straw mulch for the winter; to the south, give some semishade; to the east, provide sandy soil with extra drainage, and add a bit of lime from time to time.

Because of its height, use Goldeneye toward the back of the border, against a fence, or as accent clumps. The plants are wonderful for hiding compost heaps, trash receptacles, brush piles, small storage buildings, or any other unsightly object. As these plants form large colonies, they are also useful on slopes to help control erosion. If Goldeneye is being used in a naturalizing planting, sow seeds toward the outer fringes of the planting, as their height and natural tendency to multiply may shade or crowd out lower-growing and less robust wildings.

NOTE: This is one of the best western native fall wildflowers for attracting butterflies. Some of the most frequent visitors are Bordered Patch (Chlosyne lacinia adjutrix), Gray Hairstreak (Strymon melinus franki), Pearl Crescent (Phyciodes tharos tharos), Texan Crescent (Anthanassa texana), Sachem (Atalopedes campestris huron), and Fiery Skipper (Hylephila phyleus). The Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae incarnata), Great Purple Hairstreak (Atlides halesus halesus), Julia Longwing (Dryas iulia), Monarch (Danaus plexippus), Orange Sulphur (Colias eurytheme), and Sleepy Orange (Abaeis nicippe nicippe) are also commonly seen nectaring on the flowers. It is one of the larval food plants of the Bordered Patch butterfly.

RELATED SPECIES: Skeleton-leaf Golden-eye (V. stenoloba) is a three-foot-tall, many-branched shrub found in Regions 1, 5, 6, and 7 and is excellent when used in landscaping. It is covered in nectar-rich yellow flowers throughout the flowering season, especially after rainfall, and is visited by numerous species of butterflies.

In the wild, usually forms large, erect or somewhat reclining stands displaying brilliant red patches rising above lush green foliage; an annual in the northernmost region of its range (Region 1); acts as a perennial in the middle of the state, usually freezing to the ground each winter; may remain evergreen and flowering the entire year in the Valley area. Leaves opposite on square stems. Flowers on a terminal spike, opposite, brilliant red, two-lobed, tubular, in separated whorls or clusters.

CULTIVATION: Tropical Sage readily reseeds and also root-sprouts, so obtaining new plants should be no problem. Transplant new seedlings to desired areas, or healthy clumps can be lifted and divided for larger plants. Water well to get roots started. Ideally, soil for Tropical Sage should be very well drained. If the soil is too rich, the plants tend to become larger and coarser than generally wanted in flower beds. In typical garden soils and with normal watering, it makes a spectacular showing; if it becomes too tall, simply trim back. The plants will grow back bushier, lusher, and full of blooms.

This is one plant that does well even in the poorest, driest soils so can be used in problem spots. After the first frost and when flowering has finished, trim the dead stalks and cover the plants with a layer of loose, dried leaves as a protective winter mulch.

NOTE: This is a favorite of butterflies having a long proboscis such as the Swallowtails (family Papilionidae), the larger Yellows and Sulphurs (family Pieridae), and some of the Skippers (family Hesperiidae). It is also avidly used by hummingbirds. In the trade, white- and pink-flowered forms are generally offered.

RELATED SPECIES: Cherry Sage (S. greggii), a shrubbier form, is a western native common in the trade and is offered in colors from white to deep magenta to red.

Abundant, late-summer and fall-blooming perennial herb attracting many species of butterflies, both “regulars” and the rare “strays” from the Valley; growing in large colonies beneath trees or edges and openings of woodlands; in the wild often common growing to fullest height along shaded creek banks. Leaves dull green, alternate, extending down the stem as narrow wings, upper leaves much smaller and stalkless. Stiffly upright stems branching only when flowering into short stems bearing clusters of white flowers, the whole forming a huge flat to rounded terminal mass.

CULTIVATION: Only occasionally offered at native plant sales, Virginia Frostweed will most probably need to be obtained from the wild. Because it is easily started by seeds, find a stand of plants along a roadside or in a friend’s pasture. After the plants have been flowering for a while but before a frost, wrap fine netting over the entire head and tie beneath. After all flowering is finished, clip the entire head and hang upside down until the stalk is completely dry. Remove netting, and shake seeds loose. Plant some seeds immediately where plants are wanted in the garden, and save some seeds for planting in the spring. Once seedlings are up, they can be thinned to one to two feet apart. Plant at the back of the border along with Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia) and Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium fistulosum). Generally the plants are strong and sturdy and do not require staking. Their height is usually based on the amount of water they receive. Never overwater these plants, for they usually do best if somewhat on the dry side.

Virginia Frostweed blooms only during the latter part of the flowering season, but the massive flower heads are outstanding, and the beautiful dark green foliage makes a perfect background for lower-growing species.

NOTE: The common name “frostweed” comes from the phenomenon of freezing sap oozing from bursting stems after a hard freeze, forming beautiful and unusual formations. Frostweed is a larval food plant for the Silvery Checkerspot (Chlosyne nycteis), Bordered Patch (C. lacinia adjutrix), and Spring/Summer Azure (Celastrina ladon).

RELATED SPECIES: A very similar frost-weed (V. microptera) with larger, whiter, and showier flowers occurs in the Rio Grande Valley area (Region 5) and is used by the Bordered Patch and Silvery Checkerspot.

A low, upright or sprawling, many-stemmed biennial or perennial from woody taproot. Stems usually much-branched, with the plant forming clumps or mounds. Leaves in basal portions of plant covered in soft, woolly hairs, stalked, sometimes lobed; upper leaves stalk-less, smaller, greener. Flower heads yellow, several, and closely congested in terminal clusters.

CULTIVATION: Woolly Paper-flower is commonly found throughout the northern and western portions of the state, usually in gypsum or sandy soil, and is very drought resistant. In the wild it often forms extensive and showy masses along roadsides or in fields and meadows. When introduced into the garden, the plant’s appearance becomes even more dramatic. After flowering, the numerous dried flowers become papery and can be left on the plant for months, the gold gradually fading to beautiful browns and tans.

The best method for propagating this plant is by seeds, collecting the seeds in late summer or early fall after they have become fully mature. Cut stems below the entire head, and hang upside down for a few days to air-dry. Plant in late fall for flowering plants the following season. In early spring young plants can be moved to desired locations in the garden.

Woolly Paper-flower is ideal as an edging for a sunny perennial border or along a path. It is also good in masses as filler plants when other plants finish flowering and are removed from the beds. Try using Woolly Paper-flower in large containers and in natural plantings. It is especially lovely placed close to rocks and in the company of Cenizo (Leucophyllum frutescens), Snapdragon Vine (Maurandya antirrhiniflora), Downy Paintbrush (Castilleja sessiliflora), Fine-leaf Woolly-white (Hymenopappus flavescens), New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novaeangliae), Phacelia (Phacelia congesta), and any of the verbenas (Verbena spp.).

A dense, woolly coating of soft hairs on the foliage of Woolly Paper-flower enables it to stand long periods of drought by reducing moisture lost by the leaves through evaporation. This ability to retain moisture could be fatal if plants were kept continually moist. Let the ground become completely dry between waterings, and add sand to the soil for good drainage when planting. Use only very light applications of fertilizer, if any at all. After a plant is growing well, it can be trimmed back to encourage even lusher growth, but this is usually not necessary.

NONNATIVE/CULTIVATED TREES

NATIVE SHRUBS

NONNATIVE/CULTIVATED SHRUBS

NATIVE VINES

NONNATIVE/CULTIVATED VINES

NATIVE HERBS

NONNATIVE/CULTIVATED HERBS

JANAIS PATCH (Chlosyne janais)