Levanto • Sestri Levante • Santa Margherita Ligure • Portofino • La Spezia • Carrara • Portovenere
Map: Riviera Towns near the Cinque Terre
Orientation to Santa Margherita Ligure
Sights in Santa Margherita Ligure
Sleeping in Santa Margherita Ligure
Eating in Santa Margherita Ligure
Santa Margherita Ligure Connections
The Cinque Terre is tops, but several towns to the north have a breezy beauty and more beaches. Towns to the south offer a mix of marble, trains, and yachts.
Levanto, the northern gateway to the Cinque Terre, has a long beach and a scenic, strenuous trail to Monterosso al Mare. Sestri Levante, on a narrow peninsula flanked by two beaches, is for sun-seekers. Santa Margherita Ligure is more of a real town, with actual sights, beaches, and easy connections with Portofino by trail, bus, or boat. All three towns are a straight shot to the Cinque Terre by train.
South of the Cinque Terre, you’ll likely pass through the workaday town of La Spezia (don’t stay here unless you’re desperate), the southern gateway to the Cinque Terre. Carrara is a quickie for marble lovers who are driving between Pisa and La Spezia. The picturesque village of Portovenere, near La Spezia, has scenic boat connections with Cinque Terre towns.
Public transportation is the best way to get around this region. All the places in this chapter are well connected by train and/or boat.
Graced with a long, sandy beach, Levanto is packed in summer and popular with surfers. The rest of the year, it’s just a small, sleepy town, with less charm and fewer tourists than the Cinque Terre. But with quick connections to Monterosso (4 minutes by train) and better dining options, Levanto makes a decent home base if you can’t snare a room in the Cinque Terre.
Levanto has a new section (with a regular grid street plan) and a twisty old town (bisected by a modern street), plus a few pedestrian streets and a castle (not tourable). From Levanto, you can take a no-wimps-allowed hike to Monterosso (2.5 hours) or hop a boat to the Cinque Terre towns and beyond.
The helpful TI is on Piazza Mazzini (daily 9:00-13:00 & 15:00-19:00 except Sun until 18:00, shorter hours off-season, tel. 0187-808-125, www.comune.levanto.sp.it). In peak season, the TI leads a weekly walking tour of Levanto’s medieval architecture (free but tips expected, 2 hours, departs Thu at 18:00 from Piazza Cavour, register at TI).
By Train: It’s a 10-minute walk from the Levanto train station to the TI in town (head down stairs in front of station, turn right, cross bridge, then follow Corso Roma to Piazza Mazzini).
By Car: Drivers can use the cheap short-term parking in the lots in front of and on either side of the train station (€7.20/8 hours, €10.80/24 hours—pay at the machines each day). Another option is the lot across the river from the hospital on the way into town (first left after the hospital, cross bridge and immediately turn left), or north of the church on Via del Mercato (free during high season, except Wed before 14:00). For long-term parking, try the lots at Piazza Mazzini or behind the TI (€18/day).
Markets: Levanto’s modern covered mercato, which sells produce and fish, is on Via del Mercato, between the TI and train station (Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00, closed Sun). On Wednesday morning, an open-air market with clothes, shoes, and housewares fills the street in front of the mercato.
Internet Access: Try Viaggi Beraldi at Via Garibaldi 102 (€1.50/30 minutes, Mon-Sun 9:00-13:00 & 16:00-20:00, tel. 0187-800-818).
Baggage Storage: None is available. Try La Spezia (see here), Monterosso (here), Vernazza (here), or Santa Margherita Ligure (here).
Laundry: A self-service launderette stuffed with snack and drink vending machines is at Piazza Staglieno 38 (wash-€5 including soap, dry-€5, open 24 hours daily, mobile 338-701-6341). Another self-service place, Speedy Wash, is at Via Garibaldi 32 (wash-€4, dry-€2, daily 8:00-21:00, mobile 350-156-5026).
Bike Rental: Cicli Raso North Shore rents bikes (€10-20/day depending on type of bike, daily 9:30-12:30 & 15:30-19:30, closed Sun Nov-April, Via Garibaldi 63, tel. 0187-802-511, www.cicliraso.com). The Sensafreni Bike Shop is convenient to the beach boardwalk (€2/hour, €15/24 hours, Mon-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 16:00-19:30, closed Sun, Piazza del Popolo 1, tel. 0187-807-128).
Sports Rentals: Rosa dei Venti rents kayaks, canoes, surfboards, and windsurfing equipment right on the beach (Marco’s mobile 329-451-1981 or 335-608-9277, www.levantorosadeiventi.it).
You can access Levanto’s beach boardwalk and the sea right behind the TI. As you face the harbor, the boat dock is to your far left, and the diving center is to your far right (rental boats available at either place in summer). You can also rent a kayak or canoe on the beach, just below the east end of the Piazza Mazzini parking lot.
During the summer, three parts of the beach are free: both sides of the boat dock, and behind the TI. The rest of the beach is broken up into private sections that charge admission. You can always stroll along the beach, even through the private sections—just don’t sit down. Off-season, roughly October through May, the entire beach is free, and you can lay your towel anywhere you like.
The old town, several blocks from the TI and beach, clusters around Piazza del Popolo. Until a few decades ago, the town’s open-air market was held at the 13th-century loggia (covered set of archways) in the square. Explore the back streets.
To reach the trailhead to Monterosso: From Piazza del Popolo, head uphill to the striped church, Chiesa di Sant’Andrea (with your back to the loggia, go straight ahead—across the square and up Via Don Emanuele Toso to the church). From the church courtyard, follow the sign to the castello (a private residence), go under the stone arch, and continue uphill. Or, if you’re coming from the seaside promenade (Via Gaetano Semenza), head under the arches and up the stairs, and follow the signs to the castello. Either route leads you to a sign that points you toward Punta Mesco, the rugged tip of the peninsula. From here, you can hike up to Monterosso (2.5 hours). This lovely, rugged-and-wild hike is no joke—bring lots of water and wear good shoes. Most of the trail is a gradual up-and-down, but the last stretch into Monterosso is almost entirely big steps, so those with knee problems might consider starting in Monterosso instead. The elevation gain overall is more than double that of the toughest Cinque Terre hikes. The Cinque Terre hiking pass is not necessary here.
Cross the river bridge located by the TI to wander along this easy waterfront path, good for walking or cycling. You’ll encounter shaded tunnels and two sunny beaches on the way to the small but modern town of Bonassola with its sandy beach (25 minutes by foot, 10 minutes by bike, public beaches located a minute’s walk down from trail). From Bonassola, the path continues on to the town of Framura, a 3.5-mile walk/ride from Levanto.
In this popular beach town, many hotels want you to take half-pension (lunch or dinner) in summer, especially in July and August. Prices listed here are the maximum for high season (July-Aug); smaller rooms or those without views may be less. Expect to pay €10-30 less per night for April-June and September-October, and even less for the rest of the year. The longer your stay, the greater your bargaining power. The high number of four-person rooms in Levanto makes it particularly welcoming to families who want to explore the Cinque Terre. Many hotels rent out large apartments with kitchenettes (without a half-pension requirement), and parking is free or very reasonable.
$$$ Albergo Primavera is family-run, with 17 redecorated, tasteful rooms—10 with balconies but no views—just a half-block from the beach (Db-€140 if you book directly with the hotel, request a quiet room off the street, includes hearty breakfast buffet with local hams and cheeses, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free loaner bikes, Via Cairoli 5, tel. 0187-808-023, www.primaverahotel.com, info@primaverahotel.com, friendly Carlo, cheerful Daniela, and daughters Giuditta and Gloria). Carlo can arrange airport transfers on request.
$$$ Villa Margherita is 300 yards out of town, but the shady gardens, 11 characteristic colorfully tiled rooms (two with little view terraces), and tranquility are worth the walk (Db-€170, Tb-€185, 5 percent discount with cash and this book, elevator one flight up from street level, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free parking, 10-minute walk to town with stairs, 5-minute walk to train station, free shuttle service from station if you tell them when you’ll arrive, Via Trento e Trieste 31, tel. 0187-807-212, mobile 328-842-6934, www.villamargherita.net, info@villamargherita.net). They also rent apartments around town and a fancy villa (for up to 14 people) set on a peninsula by the sea (www.levanto.net).
$$$ Garden Hotel offers 17 simple, bright, modern rooms, all with balconies (but most lack views due to the elevated street), a block from the beach on busy Corso Italia (Db-€120, newer fifth-floor room with sea views and terrace-Db-€150, 5 percent discount with cash and this book, closed mid-Nov-mid-March, air-con, elevator for fifth floor only, Wi-Fi, free parking but not on-site—can unload bags and then park near the station, loaner bikes, Corso Italia 6, tel. 0187-808-173, www.nuovogarden.com, info@nuovogarden.com, Davide and Damiano).
$$$ Hotel Carla’s 30 newer rooms are decorated in soothing, modish colors. It’s located just 5 minutes from the station and 10 minutes from the beach (Db-€85-140, Wi-Fi, Via Martiri della Libertà 28, tel. 0187-808-275, www.carlahotel.com, info@carlahotel.com).
$$ A Durmì is a happy little affitta camere (guesthouse) owned by lovely Graziella, Gianni, and their two daughters, Elisa and Chiara. Their sunny patios, green leafy gardens, six immaculate modern rooms, and five sunlit apartments make a welcoming place to stay (Db-€60-110, extra bed-€20; 3-4 person apartment-€90-160—no minimum stay required; ask about cash discount when you book, rooms cleaned daily, breakfast-€7, air-con, power showers, guest computer, Wi-Fi in lobby, bar, parking-€5/day, Via D. Viviani 12, tel. 0187-800-823, mobile 349-105-6016, www.adurmi.it, info@adurmi.it).
$$ Ristorante la Loggia has four pleasant, cozy, summery rooms perched above the old loggia on Piazza del Popolo (Db-€70, cash only, request balcony, quieter rooms in back, two basic side-by-side apartments great for families of 4-8, lots of stairs, air-con, free parking, Piazza del Popolo 7, tel. 0187-808-107, mobile 335-641-7701, www.loggialevanto.com, Nerina does not speak English).
$$ Villa Clelia B&B offers five peaceful, dark, air-conditioned rooms (named for the winds—scirocco, maestrale, and so on) with mini-fridges and terraces in a garden courtyard just 50 yards from the sea (Db-€75-100, minimal in-room breakfast, Wi-Fi, free parking; with loggia on your left, it’s straight ahead at Piazza da Passano 1; tel. 0187-808-195, mobile 329-379-4859, www.villaclelia.it, info@villaclelia.it). They also have seven central apartments that economically sleep up to five (€600-800/week, 3-night minimum stay). B&B rooms are cleaned daily; you’re on your own at the apartments.
$$ La Rosa dei Venti is an affitta camere just a couple of blocks from the beach. Enthusiastic Rosanna and her son Marco rent five super-clean rooms with dark hardwood floors, comfy rugs, and a hodgepodge of glittery seashore decor (Db-€110, Tb-€135, includes homemade breakfast, air-con, Wi-Fi, free parking, behind Enoteca Tumelin across from Piazza del Popolo, Via della Compera, tel. 0187-808-165, Marco’s mobile 328-742-8268, www.larosadeiventilevanto.com, info@larosadeiventilevanto.com).
$$ Agriturismo A Due Passi dal Mare is an in-town oasis, just a five-minute walk from the beach or the train station. Friendly Francesca and husband Maurizio rent four crisp, quiet rooms with sizable bathrooms; their back garden is open to guests (Sb-€50, Db-€80, Tb-€100, cheaper in spring and fall, Wi-Fi, free on-site parking, closed Jan-Feb, right on the main drag at Corso Roma 37, tel. 0187-809-177, mobile 338-960-1537, www.a2passidalmare.com, info@a2passidalmare.com).
$$ Hotel Dora has perfectly comfortable (if dated) rooms in a quiet residential neighborhood a 10-minute walk from the beach (Db-€100-120, Via Martiri della Libertà 27, tel. 0187-808-168, www.dorahotel.it, info@dorahotel.it).
$$ Erba Persa Agriturismo, a rustic farmhouse run by sunny Grazia Lizza and her gardener husband Claudio, hosts cats, dogs, pet rabbits, and donkeys among their plots of organic fruits and vegetables. The three rooms are old-fashioned but roomy. It’s a 10-minute walk from the train station and about a 20-minute walk from town (D-€50, Db with balcony and countryside view-€70, extra bed-€10, Wi-Fi, free parking, free mosquitoes, Via N. S. della Guardia 21; if calling, first try mobile 339-400-8587; tel. 0187-801-376, www.erbapersa.it, erbapersa@alice.it).
Hostel: $ Ostello Ospitalia del Mare, a budget gem, is run by the city tourist association. It has 70 basic beds, airy rooms, an elevator, and a terrace in a well-renovated medieval palazzo a few steps from the old town (beds-€25-30 in 4-, 6-, and 9-bed rooms with private bath, Db-€68; includes breakfast, thin towels, and sheets; guest computer, Wi-Fi, self-service laundry-€7.50, microwave, fridge, nonmembers welcome, co-ed unless you strenuously object, no curfew, no lockout; office open daily April-Oct 8:00-13:00 & 16:00-20:00, until 23:00 weekend nights, slightly shorter hours off-season; may close Nov-March, Via San Nicolò 1, tel. 0187-802-562, www.ospitaliadelmare.it, info@ospitaliadelmare.it).
Osteria Tumelin, a local favorite, is more expensive than other options, but has a dressy, sophisticated ambience and a wide selection of fresh seafood. Reservations are smart on weekends or if you want to dine outside (€12-14 primi, €17-23 secondi, daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, closed Thu Oct-May, aquarium containing giant lobster and moray eels in first dining room on the right, Via D. Grillo 32, across street from loggia, tel. 0187-808-379).
Da Rino, a small trattoria on a quiet pedestrian lane, dishes up reasonably priced fresh seafood and homemade Ligurian specialties prepared with care. Consider the grilled totani (squid), pansotti con salsa di noci (ravioli with walnut sauce), and trofie al pesto (local pasta with pesto sauce). Dine indoors or at one of the outdoor tables. On busy nights, they open up a second dining room across the street. Sommelier Anna will help you choose a good wine (€8-11 pastas, €13-15 secondi, daily 19:00-22:00, closed Tue, Via Garibaldi 10, tel. 0187-813-475).
Ristorante la Loggia, next to the old loggia, makes fine food, including gnocchi with scampi and saffron sauce and a delectable seafood lasagna. Their daily fish specials are served in a homey, wood-paneled dining room or on a little terrace overlooking the square (€10-12 pastas, €15-17 secondi, daily 12:30-14:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed Wed off-season, closed Nov-Feb, Piazza del Popolo 7, tel. 0187-808-107).
Ristorante Moresco serves large portions of pasta and seafood at reasonable prices in a vaulted, candlelit room decorated with Moorish-style frescoes. The best value is their €25 four-course tasting menu (doesn’t include drinks, 2-person minimum). Skip the house white wine and order something more drinkable from their wine list (daily 12:00-14:00 & 19:00-21:00—or until the last diner leaves, may close Sun evenings in winter, reservations appreciated, Via Jacopo 24, tel. 0187-807-253, busy Roberto and Francesca).
Taverna Garibaldi is a good-value, cozy place on the most characteristic street in Levanto, serving focaccia with various toppings, made-to-order farinata (savory chickpea crêpe), 34 types of pizza, and salads (€8-10 light meals, daily in summer 19:00-22:00, likely closed Tue Sept-June, Via Garibaldi 57, tel. 0187-808-098).
La Picea serves up wood-fired pizzas to go, or dine at one of their few small tables (Tue-Sun 16:30-21:45 or until they use up their pizza dough, closed Mon, just off the corner near Via Varego at Via della Concia 18, tel. 0187-802-063).
A Picnic or Bite on the Go: Focaccerie, rosticcerie, and delis with takeout pasta abound on Via Dante Alighieri. Focacceria il Falcone has a great selection of focaccia with different toppings (daily 9:30-22:00, Oct-May closes at 20:00 and on Mon, Via Cairoli 19, tel. 0187-807-370). For more picnic options, try the mercato (mornings except Sun; see “Helpful Hints,” here). It’s fun to grab a crusty loaf of bread, then pair it with a pot of freshly made Genovese pesto from Il Laboratorio del Pesto (sometimes closed Wed afternoons, Via Dante 14, tel. 0187-807-441). La Bottega-Simply Market, just below the train station, has a good deli counter and is handy for those taking an early train (Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 8:30-13:00). There are two Crai supermarkets: One is just off Via Jacopo da Levanto at Via del Municipio 5 (Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00 & 17:00-20:00, Sun 8:00-13:00 & 16:30-19:30); the other is nearby on Piazza Staglieno (for a shaded setting, lay out your spread on a bench in the grassy park at this piazza). Another excellent picnic spot is Piazza Cristoforo Colombo, located east of the swimming pool, with benches and sea views.
And for Dessert: Compare Il Pinguino Gelateria at Piazza Staglieno 2 (daily until late) with Il Porticciolo Gelateria, at the end of Via Cairoli at Piazzetta Marina (daily in summer, closed Mon Sept-June, mobile 393-228-1570).
From Levanto: To get to the Cinque Terre, you can take the train (2-3/hour, 4 minutes to Monterosso). A slower, more scenic option is the boat, which stops at every Cinque Terre town—except Corniglia—before heading to Portovenere (2/day Easter-Oct, none Nov-Easter; €7 one-way to Monterosso, 10:00 departure includes Cinque Terre, Portovenere, and Lerici Island tour for €28; 14:30 departure includes Cinque Terre and 1-hour stop in Portovenere for €18; 1 return boat each day from Portovenere departs at about 17:00; pick up boat schedule and price sheet from TI or boat dock, tel. 0187-732-987 or 0187-818-440, www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it).
This peninsular town is squeezed as skinny as a hot dog between its two beaches. The pedestrian-friendly Corso Colombo, which runs down the middle of the peninsula, is lined with shops that sell takeaway pizza, pastries, and beach paraphernalia. Don’t be discouraged by the ugly modern town in front of the train station; the peninsula, about a seven-minute walk away, has charm to spare.
Hans Christian Andersen enjoyed his visit here in the mid-1800s, writing, “What a fabulous evening I spent in Sestri Levante!” One of the bays—Baia delle Favole—is named in his honor (favole means “fairy tale”). The small mermaid curled on the edge of the fountain behind the TI is another nod to the beloved Danish storyteller.
During the last week of May, the town awards its Hans Christian Andersen Prize, created to celebrate children’s literature. Open to professional writers worldwide as well as schoolchildren throughout Italy, the competition culminates in a street festival and an awards ceremony for the best fairy tale in four age groups. The “Oscars” are little mermaids.
Tourist Information: From the train station, it’s a five-minute walk to the TI, where you can pick up a map (Tue-Sat 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun-Mon; go straight out of station on Via Roma, turn left at fountain in park, TI in next square at Piazza Sant’Antonio 10; tel. 0185-457-011, iat.sestrilevante@provincia.genova.it). They can also direct you to the trail (south of town) for a one-hour hike to the scenic Punta Manara promontory.
Market Day: It’s on Saturday at Piazza Aldo Moro (8:00-13:00). Local producers of olive oil, cheese, jam, and honey also set up on occasional Sundays on Via Asilo Maria Teresa (where Via XXV Aprile and Corso Columbo meet).
Baggage Storage: None is available at the station.
Laundry: A self-service launderette is not far from the train station (wash-€5, daily 8:30-21:00, Via Costantino Raffo 8, mobile 329-012-8885).
From the TI, take Corso Colombo (to the left of Bermuda Bar, eventually turns into Via XXV Aprile, then Via alla Penisola), which runs up the peninsula. Follow this street—lively with shops, eateries, and delightful pastel facades—for about five minutes. Just before you get to Piazza Matteotti with the large white church at the end, turn off for either beach (free Silenzio beach is on your left). Or continue on the street to the left of the church and head uphill. You’ll pass the evocative arches of a ruined chapel (bombed during World War II and left as a memorial). A few minutes farther on, past a stony Romanesque church, the road winds to the right to the Grand Hotel dei Castelli. Consider a drink at their view café (so-so view, reasonably priced drinks, daily 10:00-24:00, café entrance is at end of parking lot). The rocky, forested bluff at the end of the town’s peninsula is actually the huge private backyard of this fancy hotel.
These are named after the bays (baie) that they border. The bigger beach, Baia delle Favole, is divided up much of the year (May-Sept) into sections that you must pay to enter. Fees, which can soar up to €30 per day in August (no hourly rate), generally include chairs, umbrellas, and fewer crowds. There are several small free sections: at the ends and in the middle (look for libere signs, and ask “Gratis?” to make sure that it’s free). For less expensive sections of beach (where you can rent a chair for about €8-10), ask for spiaggia libera attrezzata (spee-AH-jah LEE-behr-ah ah-treh-ZAHT-tah). The usual beach-town activities are clustered along this baia: boat rentals, sailing lessons, and bocce courts—ask if you can get in on a game.
The town’s other beach, Baia del Silenzio, is narrow, virtually all free, and packed, providing a good chance to see Italian families at play. There isn’t much more to do here than unroll a beach towel and join in. At the far end of Baia del Silenzio (under Hotel Helvetia) is Citto Beach bar, which offers front-row seats with bay views (drinks daily June-Aug 10:00-24:00, May and Sept-Oct until 20:00, sandwiches and salads at lunchtime only, closed Nov-April, Gilberto).
Prices listed here are the maximum for the high season (July-Aug). Prices are €10-20 less per night April-June and September-October, and soft the rest of the year. Some hotels are closed off-season.
$$$ Hotel Due Mari, located in an old Genoese palazzo with sprawling public spaces, has four stars, 65 fine rooms, and a rooftop terrace with a super view of both beaches. Ideally, reserve well in advance. The extra services and grand communal spaces are the draw (small Db-€110, bigger Db-€140-220 depending on view and type of room, €35/person half-pension in aristocratic restaurant required July-Aug—but optional with copy of this book, closed mid-Oct-Dec, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, elevator, garden, outdoor and heated indoor seawater swimming pools, wet sauna, small gym, parking-€15/day; take Corso Colombo to the end, hotel is behind church in Piazza Matteotti—take the left-hand alleyway flanking church, Vico del Coro 18; tel. 0185-42695, www.duemarihotel.it, info@duemarihotel.it).
$$$ Hotel Helvetia, overlooking Baia del Silenzio, feels posh and romantic, with 21 bright rooms, a large sun terrace with a heated, cliff-hanging swimming pool, and a peaceful garden atmosphere (viewless Db-€210-230, Db with sea view/balcony-€250-300, closed Nov-March, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, swimming pool (heated off-season), off-site parking-€20/day with free shuttle; from Corso Colombo, turn left on Via Palestro and angle left at the small square to Via Cappuccini 43, tel. 0185-41175, www.hotelhelvetia.it, helvetia@hotelhelvetia.it, Alex).
$$$ Hotel Celeste, a dream for beach lovers, rests along the waterfront. Its 41 rooms are modern and plainly outfitted—you pay for the sea breeze (Db-€165 with view and balcony, €25 optional half-pension, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi in hotel and on beach, deals on beach chairs, attached beachside bar, Lungomare Descalzo 14, tel. 0185-485-005, www.hotelceleste.com, info@hotelceleste.com, Franco).
$$$ Hotel Mira is an old-school hotel on the beachfront promenade, just around the corner from the town’s charming historical core and handy to the beaches. Rooms are simply furnished, yet have all amenities (Db-€150-160, Tb-€180-190, includes breakfast, Viale Rimembranza 15, tel. 0185-459-404, www.hotelmira.com, info@hotelmira.com).
$$$ Hotel Genova, run by the Bertoni family, is a shipshape hotel with 19 shiny-clean, modern, and cheery rooms, sunny lounge, rooftop sundeck, free loaner bikes, and a good location just two blocks from Baia delle Favole (Sb-€75, Db-€130, superior Db-€150, Tb-€189, ask for quieter room in back, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, parking-€5/day; from the train station, walk straight ahead, turn right at the T-intersection, and find the cream building ahead on the right, Viale Mazzini 126; tel. 0185-41057, www.hotelgenovasestrilevante.com, info@hotelgenovasestrilevante.com, Stefano).
$$ Albergo Marina’s friendly Magda and her brother Santo rent 23 bright, peaceful, and clean rooms done in sea-foam green. Though the hotel is located on a busy boulevard, all rooms are at the back, facing a quiet courtyard and parking lots, and priced right (Db-€70-90, half-pension optional, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, free self-service laundry, pool table; exit the train station and angle left down Via Eraldo, at Piazza Repubblica, take an easy left onto Via Fasce and find the hotel ahead on the right, Via Fasce 100; tel. 0185-41527, www.marinahotel.it, marinahotel@marinahotel.it).
$$ Villa Jolanda is a homey, kid-friendly, basic pensione with 17 simple rooms, five with little balconies but no views, updated bathrooms, and a garden courtyard/sun terrace—perfect for families on a budget...and the owner’s cats (Sb-€30-45, Db-€75-95, Qb-€100-120, 3-night minimum stay required with advance reservation, €6.50 breakfast isn’t worth it but owner Mario’s €23 home-cooked dinners are—available June-Aug only with reservation, free parking; located near Baia del Silenzio—take alley just to the right of the church on Piazza Matteotti, Via Pozzetto 15, tel. 0185-41354, www.villajolanda.it, info@villajolanda.it).
Everything I’ve listed is on classic Via XXV Aprile, which also abounds with focaccerie, takeout pizza by the slice, and little grocery shops. Assemble a picnic or try one of the places below.
At L’Osteria Mattana, where everyone shares long tables in two dining rooms (the second one is in the back, past the wood oven and brazier), you can mix with locals while enjoying traditional cuisine, listed on chalkboard menus. Handy translations are posted next to the boards (Mon-Fri 19:30-22:30, Sat-Sun 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, no dinner served Mon Nov-April, cash only; follow Corso Colombo from TI as it turns into Via XXV Aprile, restaurant on right at #34; tel. 0185-457-633, Marco).
Polpo Mario is classier but affordable, with a fun people-watching location on the main drag (€14-16 pastas, €18-22 secondi, €40 fixed-price tasting menu, Tue-Sun 12:15-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Mon, Via XXV Aprile 163, tel. 0185-480-203).
Ristorante Mainolla offers €4-8 pizzas, big salads, focaccia sandwiches, and reasonably priced pastas near Baia del Silenzio (daily in summer 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed Tue off-season, Via XXV Aprile 187, mobile 338-157-0877, tel. 0185-427-92).
Gelato: Locals flock to Ice Cream’s Angels at the intersection of Via XXV Aprile and Via della Chiusa. Riccardo and Elena artfully load up your cone with intermingling flavors, and top it with a dollop of Nutella chocolate-hazelnut cream (open daily until late in summer, closed Jan-Feb and Tue off-season, mobile 348-402-1604). Bacciolo enjoys a similar popularity among residents (closed Thu, Via XXV Aprile 51, on the right just before the church).
Supermarket: You can stock up on picnic supplies at two locations of Carrefour Express on Piazza della Repubblica, at #1 (Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00 & 15:30-19:30, closed Sun) and #28 (daily 8:00-20:00). Or pop into the conveniently located Minimarket Fabrizio for fresh fruit, salumi, and bread (Thu-Tue 8:00-12:30 & 16:00-19:30, closed Wed and sometimes Sun, Via XXV Aprile 177).
Deli: For a takeout meal, head to Rosticceria Bertolone for roasted anything—beef, pork, chicken, or vegetables. Assemble an entire meal from their deli and ask them to heat it for you (Mon-Sat 7:30-13:00 & 16:00-19:30, closed Sun, Via Fascie Vincenzo 12, tel. 0185-487-098).
By train, Sestri Levante is just 20-40 minutes away from Monterosso (hourly connections with Monterosso, nearly hourly with other Cinque Terre towns) and 30 minutes from Santa Margherita Ligure (2/hour).
Boats depart to the Cinque Terre, Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and San Fruttuoso from the dock (molo) on the peninsula (boats run Easter-Oct, see “Santa Margherita Ligure Connections,” here, for details; to get to the dock: facing the church in Piazza Matteotti, take the road on the right with the sea on your right, about halfway down Via Pilade Queirolo; tel. 0185-284-670, mobile 336-253-336 or 335-709-0870, www.traghettiportofino.it).
If you need the Riviera of movie stars, park your yacht at Portofino. Or you can settle down with more elbow room in nearby and personable Santa Margherita Ligure (15 minutes by bus from Portofino and one hour by train from the Cinque Terre). While Portofino’s velour allure is tarnished by a nonstop traffic jam in peak season, Santa Margherita tumbles easily downhill from its train station. The town has a fun Old World resort character and a breezy harborfront.
On a quick day trip from Milan or the Cinque Terre, walk the beach promenade and see the small old town of Santa Margherita Ligure before catching the bus (or boat) to Portofino to see what all the fuss is about. With more time, Santa Margherita makes a fine overnight stop or home base for hiking the Portofino peninsula.
Pick up a map at the harborside TI on Piazza Veneto (daily April-Sept 9:30-12:30 & 14:30-19:30, Oct-March closes at 17:30 and all day Sun, tel. 0185-287-485, www.turismoinliguria.it).
To get from the station to the city center, take the stairs marked Mare (sea) down to the harbor; for an easier descent (especially if you’re wheeling a suitcase), head down the gentler grade of Via Roma (follow TI signs). The harborfront promenade is wider than the skimpy beach. (The real beaches, which are pebbly, are a 10-minute walk farther on, past the port.)
The TI is right on the waterfront at Piazza Veneto (with the roundabout, flags, and park). The pedestrian-friendly old town is a block away: From the piazza, head inland on Largo Antonio Giusti and take a near-immediate left onto Via Torino, which opens onto Piazza Caprera, a square with a church and morning fruit vendors in the midst of traffic-free streets.
Internet Access: Papiluc Bar has two terminals (€3/30 minutes) and Wi-Fi (€1.50/30 minutes, daily 7:00 until late, closed Wed in winter, Via del Arco 20, tel. 0185-282-580).
Post Office: It’s just down the road from the train station on Via Roma (Mon-Fri 8:20-19:05, Sat 8:20-12:35, closed Sun, Via Roma 36).
Baggage Storage: There’s no official left-luggage office here, but day-trippers arriving by train can try asking kindly to stash their bags at the station’s café-bar (next to the station).
Pharmacy: One is at Via Roma, near the post office, and another at the corner of Piazza Caprera and Via Pescino, not far from the TI.
Bike Rental: GM Rent is at Via XXV Aprile 11 (€10/5 hours, €20/24 hours, also rents scooters and Smart Cars, daily 10:00-13:00 & 16:30-20:00, mobile 329-406-6274, www.gmrent.it, Francesco).
Taxi: Taxis wait outside the train station and charge €15 for a ride from the station to anywhere in town, €25 to Paraggi beach, and €35 to Portofino (tel. 0185-286-508).
Driver: Helpful taxi driver Alessandro has five cars and two minivans (that seat up to 8) and offers airport transfers to Genoa, Milan, Florence, and Nice (France). He is also available for local excursions, including all-day trips to the Cinque Terre (mobile 338-860-2349, www.alessandrotaxi.com, alessandrotaxi@yahoo.it).
Parking: The recommended Hotel Mediterraneo and Villa Anita offer free parking to their guests, and a few hotels have limited spots for a fee. When you reserve your room, mention that you’ll have a car. Otherwise, try a private lot (about €10-15/half-day, €15-20/24 hours) such as Autopark, next to the post office (Via Roma 38, tel. 0185-287-818). An hourly parking lot is by the harbor, in front of the fish market (pay at blue machine with big Ticket sign overhead, daily 8:00-2:00, €2.50/hour). Parking is generally free where there are white lines; blue lines mean you pay.
Local Guide: Roberta De Beni knows the Ligurian Coast, its history, and its art very well (€100/half-day, €165/day, mobile 349-530-4778, diodebe@inwind.it).
(See “Santa Margherita Ligure” map, here.)
Explore Santa Margherita Ligure on the following self-guided stroll.
• Begin on the water at Piazza della Libertà (just beyond Piazza Veneto). Walk out to the tip of the boat dock and turn around to survey the...
Town View: From here, you can take in all of Santa Margherita Ligure, from the villas dotting the hills and the castle built in the 16th century (closed except for special exhibitions) to the exclusive hotels. Sharing the dock with you is a statue of “Santa Margherita Virgin Martyr.”
• Wander along the harborfront (down Corso Marconi) past the castle and to the...
Marina: What’s left of the town’s fishing fleet ties up here. The fishing industry survives, drag-netting octopus, shrimp, and miscellaneous “blue fish”—plus mountains of anchovies attracted to midnight lamps. The fish market (inside the rust-colored building with arches and columns) wiggles weekdays at about, oh, maybe 16:00-20:00 or so. Residents complain that it’s easier to buy their locally caught fresh fish in Milan than here.
• Head up the flight of narrow brick stairs just to the right of the fish market. At the top stands the...
Oratory of Sant’Erasmo: This small church is named for St. Erasmus (a.k.a. “St. Elmo”), the protector of sailors. Notice the fine and typically local black-and-white pebble mosaic (riseu) in front of the church (with maritime themes). The church is actually an “oratory,” where a brotherhood of faithful men who did anonymous good deeds congregated and worshipped. It’s decorated with ships and paintings of storms that—thanks to St. Erasmus—the local seafarers survived. The huge crosses standing in the nave are carried through town on special religious holidays (the church is supposedly open only during Mass, Sun, and holidays at 8:00, or the first Fri of the month at 17:00—but often open at other times, too).
• With your back to the church, find the looooong stairway (Via Tre Novembre) ahead on the right. Climb it to reach the...
Church of San Giacomo: Even though this is a secondary church in a secondary town, it’s impressively lavish (daily 7:30-19:00, may close earlier in winter, avoid visiting during Mass—usually 7:45-9:00). The region’s aristocrats amassed wealth from trade in the 11th to the 15th centuries. When Constantinople fell to the Turks, free trade in the Mediterranean stopped, and Genovese traders became bankers—making even more money. A popular saying of the day was, “Silver is born in America, lives in Spain, and dies in Genoa.” Bankers here served Spain’s 17th-century royalty and aristocracy, and the accrued wealth paid for a Golden Age of art. Wander the church and its chapels, noticing the inlaid-marble floors and sparkling glass chandeliers.
• Step out of the church and enjoy the sea view. Then turn left and step into...
Durazzo Park (Parco di Villa Durazzo): This park was an abandoned shambles until 1973, when the city took it over (free, daily 9:00-19:00 or 20:00; closes earlier off-season). Today it’s a delight, with a breezy café enjoyed mostly by locals (generally daily 9:00-19:00 except closed Mon May-Aug, mobile 328-905-2641) and free Wi-Fi—ask at the café for the password. The garden has two distinct parts: the carefully coiffed Italian garden (designed to complement the villa’s architecture), and the calculatedly wild “English garden” below. The Italian garden is famous for its varied collection of palm trees and an extensive collection of camellias. It’s OK to feed the large turtles in the central pond (they like bits of fish or meat).
• In the building next to the café, you’ll see...
This town, like the entire region (from the border of France to La Spezia), was once ruled by the Republic of Genoa. In the 16th century, when Arab pirates from North Africa plagued the entire coastal area, Genoa built castles in the towns and lookout towers in the neighboring hills.
At the time, Santa Margherita was actually two bickering towns—each with its own bay. In 1800, Napoleon came along, took over the Republic of Genoa, and turned the rival towns into one city—naming it Porto Napoleone. When Napoleon fell in 1815, the town stayed united and took the name of the patron saint of its leading church, Santa Margherita.
In 1850, residents set to work creating a Riviera resort. They imported palm trees from North Africa and paved a fine beach promenade. Santa Margherita (and the surrounding area) was studded with fancy villas built by the aristocracy of Genoa (which was controlled by just 35 families). English, Russian, and German aristocrats also discovered the town in the 19th century. Mass tourism only hit in the last generation. Even with the increased crowds, the town decided to stay chic and kept huge developments out. Its neighbor, Rapallo, chose the extreme opposite—giving the Italian language a new word for uncontrolled growth ruining a once-cute town: rapallizzazione.
Villa Durazzo: This was the home of a local journalist and writer, Vittorio G. Rossi (1898-1978), whose office has been preserved as he left it. Typical of the region, this palazzo has some period furniture, several grand pianos, chandeliers, and paintings strewn with cupids on the walls and ceilings. Look for King Umberto’s letter offering condolences on Rossi’s death. For most people, it’s probably not worth the entry fee (€5.50, more for special exhibits; daily 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, Oct-March until 17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, WC opposite entry on left, tel. 0185-293-135, www.villadurazzo.it, info@villadurazzo.it). Classical music concerts are held here in July and August (ask at TI or villa ticket desk, or call for the schedule).
• Your self-guided walk is over. Enjoy the park.
The town’s main church is textbook Italian Baroque. Its 18th-century facade hides a 17th-century interior. The chapels to the right of the high altar contain religious “floats” used in local festival parades. The wooden groups in the niches higher up used to be part of the processions, too. The altar is typical of 17th-century Ligurian altars—shaped like a boat, with lots of shelf space for candles, flowers, and relics. Remember, Baroque is like theater. After the Vatican II decrees of the 1960s, priests began to face their flocks instead of the old altars. For this reason, all over the Catholic world, modern tables serving as post-Vatican II altars stand in front of earlier altars that are no longer the center of attention during the Mass.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:30-12:00 & 15:00-18:30, tel. 0185-286-555.
This promenade (a.k.a. caruggio—“the big street” in local dialect) is the strolling street for window-shopping, people-watching, and studying the characteristic Art Nouveau house painting from about 1900. Before 1900, people distinguished their buildings with pastel paint and distinctive door and window frames. Then they decided to get fancy and paint entire exteriors with false balconies, weapons, saints, beautiful women, and 3-D Gothic concentrate.
As you wander from the Basilica of Santa Margherita inland, pop into the fanciest grocer-deli in town—the recommended Seghezzo (immediately to the right of the church on Via Cavour). Locals know that this venerable institution has whatever odd ingredient the most obscure recipe calls for.
Farther up Via Palestro, you might drop into the traditional old Panificio-Torinese bakery for a slice of fresh focaccia. Saying “Vorrei un etto di focaccia” will get you a Ligurian olive-oily, 100-gram, €1 hunk of every kid’s favorite beach munchie. Locals claim the best focaccia in Italy is made along this coast.
On weekday afternoons, fishing boats unload their catch, which is then sold to waiting customers at Mercato del Pesce (roughly Mon-Fri 17:00-20:00, opens an hour earlier for wholesalers). Find it in the rust-colored building with arches and columns on Corso Marconi, on the harbor, just past the castle. The open-air market, a commotion of clothes and produce, is held every Friday morning along Corso Matteotti, inland from Piazza Mazzini (8:00-13:00). Piazza Caprera (facing the main church) daily hosts a few farmers selling their produce from stalls.
The handiest free Santa Margherita beaches are just below the train station toward the boat dock. But the best beaches are on the south side of town. Among these, I like “Gio and Rino beach” (just before Covo di Nord Est)—not too expensive, with fun, creative management and a young crowd. Also nice is the beach on the south side of Hotel Miramare, which offers a more relaxing sun-worshipping experience. Both beaches have free entry and rentable chairs and umbrellas. They’re a 20-minute walk from downtown, or take the bus from either the train station or Piazza Veneto (€1.80 each way if bought in advance from newsstands, tobacco shops, or the green bus ticket kiosk next to the TI; up to double the price if bought on board).
Paraggi beach, which is halfway to Portofino (with an easy bus connection—see “Portofino,” later in this chapter, and the map on here), is better than any Santa Margherita beach, but it’s very expensive. One Paraggi beach operator, Bosetti, offers a reasonable rate (€25/day, no hourly rates, includes umbrella, lounge chair, and towel), while rates at other beaches may soar up to €50 per day in July and August. In high season, the Paraggi beach may be all booked up by big shots from Portofino, which has no beach—only rocks. Off-season, the entire Paraggi beach is all yours and free of charge. A skinny patch of sand smack-dab in the middle of Paraggi beach is free year-round.
All of these accommodations are in the center of town; for specific locations, see the map on here. Hotel Jolanda and Hotel Tigullio et de Milan are closest to the station. Prices listed here are the maximum price for the high season of July-August. Expect April-June and September-October to be €10-15 cheaper, and the rest of the year to be cheaper still.
$$$ Hotel Jolanda is a solid, professionally run hotel with 50 rooms, a revolving door, a good breakfast buffet, and a friendly staff. With lavish public spaces and regal colors, this place makes you feel like nobility (Db-€150, superior Db-€170, 10 percent discount if you book directly with the hotel and mention this book when you reserve, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free use of small weight room, wet and dry saunas, Jacuzzi, 10 free loaner bikes on request, Via Luisito Costa 6, tel. 0185-287-512, www.hoteljolanda.it, info@hoteljolanda.it).
$$$ Hotel Tigullio et de Milan, run by Giuseppe of Hotel Jolanda, has equally fine rooms with creamy hues and lower prices. You don’t get all the luxurious extras, but the breezy sun terrace on top—with a bar in summertime—makes for a relaxing retreat (Db-€140, bigger Db with terrace-€150, 10 percent discount if you book directly with the hotel and mention this book when you reserve, air-con, elevator but lots of stairs down to reception, Wi-Fi, a few free parking spots, free loaner bikes, Via Rainusso 3, tel. 0185-287-455, www.hoteltigullio.eu, info@hoteltigullio.eu).
$$$ Hotel Mediterraneo, run by the Melegatti family, offers 30 spacious rooms (a few with balconies or sun terraces) in a family-friendly, creaky, and comfy 18th-century palazzo a five-minute walk from Piazza Veneto. They have a park-like sun garden with lounge chairs and lots of semi-private space. Kindly Pia Pauli presides over the dining room and makes great homemade Ligurian specialties for dinner (Sb-€100, Db-€150, Tb-€180, extensive breakfast, five-course dinner-€30/person, free laundry service with 3-day stay or longer, half the rooms have air-con, Wi-Fi, free parking, free loaner bikes, closed Dec-March, take street immediately to the right of Basilica of Santa Margherita and find hotel straight ahead at Via della Vittoria 18A, tel. 0185-286-881, www.sml-mediterraneo.it, info@sml-mediterraneo.it).
$$$ Hotel Laurin offers slick, modern, air-conditioned, pricey American-style lodgings fixated on harborfront views. All of its 43 rooms face the sea, most have terraces, and a small pool is on the sundeck, as well as a gym and wet sauna (Sb-€178, Db-€252, 10 percent discount if you book directly with the hotel and mention this book when you reserve—must show book on arrival, double-paned windows, elevator, Wi-Fi, 15-yard walk past the castle or €15 taxi ride from station, Corso Marconi 3, tel. 0185-289-971, www.laurinhotel.it, info@laurinhotel.it).
$$$ Villa Anita is an elegant-yet-homey family hotel run by hospitable Daniela and her friendly son, Sandro. They rent 12 tidy rooms—nearly all with terraces and several with new, high-tech bathrooms—overlooking a peaceful residential neighborhood just a five-minute walk from the seaside boulevard. Daniela makes great cakes, and the in-house chef offers a varying menu of Ligurian specialties (Db-€160, superior Db-€190, dinner-€25/person except Mon, family rooms, small heated pool and playground, air-con, Wi-Fi, free parking, €15 cab ride from station, Viale Minerva 25, tel. 0185-286-543, www.hotelvillaanita.com, info@hotelvillaanita.com).
$$$ Hotel Nuova Riviera is an old villa surrounded by a garden, with nine institutional-feeling rooms, warmly run by the Sabini family (Db-€140, Tb-€160, Qb-€180, 2-night minimum, these prices good in 2015 if you book directly with the hotel and mention this book when you reserve, additional 10 percent discount when you pay cash, fans, some balconies, no elevator, 15-minute walk from station or easy cab ride; if you’re driving, follow signs to hospital, then watch for hotel signs on Piazza Mazzini; if you’re walking, enter Piazza Mazzini and see signs from there; Via Belvedere 10, tel. 0185-287-403, www.sabinirentals.com, info@sabinirentals.com, chatty Cristina). They also run a nearby annex with six renovated rooms and one apartment with a tiny corner kitchen (Db-€88, Tb-€105, Qb-€125, 2-night minimum, no discounts, cash only, breakfast at Hotel Nuova Riviera is optional and €5 extra, tel. 0185-290-083).
$$$ Hotel Flory, a 16-room hotel surrounded by flowers and greenery, is run enthusiastically by Florinda and Enrico, whose three kids make this a family-friendly place (Sb-€80, Db-€120, Tb-€150, Qb-€180, two rooms have private bathroom located across the hall, will prepare gluten-free breakfasts, no elevator, Wi-Fi, rooftop terrace, free loaner bikes, laundry service-€15, parking-€20/day, 10-minute walk or €15 cab ride from station at Via Bozzo 3, tel. 0185-286-435, www.hotelflory.it, hotelflory@hotelflory.it).
For information on some of the regional specialties, see here.
La Cambusa is perched above the culinary heart of Santa Margherita Ligure—the fish market. Popular with tourists and resident romantics, its terrace has an unbeatable view over the harbor. In cooler weather, the terrace is covered and heated. Pick your favorite yacht while tucking into their seafood dishes with a Ligurian twist (€12-16 pasta, €18-25 main dishes, July-Sept daily 9:00-15:00 & 19:00-24:00 except closed Thu morning, Oct-June closed all day Thu, Via T. Bottaro 1, tel. 0185-287-410; Luciano, wife Antonella, and chef Gianni).
Da Pezzi, with a cheap cafeteria-style atmosphere, is packed with locals at midday and at night. They’re munching farinata (crêpes made from chickpeas, available Oct-May starting at 18:00) standing at the bar, or enjoying pesto and fresh fish in the dining room. Consider the deli counter with its Genovese picnic ingredients (Sun-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00, closed Sat, Via Cavour 21, tel. 0185-285-303, Giancarlo and Giobatta).
Waterfront Dining: All along the harborside of Via Tomaso Bottaro, south of the marina, you’ll find restaurants, pizzerias, and bars serving food with a nautical view. Da Gennaro Pizzeria, at Piazza della Libertà 30 by the boat dock, makes popular Neapolitan-style pizzas. Bar Giuli, the only place actually on the harbor, serves forgettable salads and sandwiches for a reasonable price (about 150 yards south of the fish market, where Via Maragliano meets Via Garibaldi).
Gelato: The best gelateria I found in town—with chocolate-truffle tartufato—is Simonetti (daily 8:30 until late, closed Mon off-season, under the castle, closest to the water at Piazza della Libertà 48). Gelateria Centrale, just off Piazza Veneto near the cinema, serves up their specialty—pinguino (penguin), a cone with your choice of gelato dipped in chocolate (daily 8:30-late, may close Wed Sept-May).
Groceries: Seghezzo is classiest and great for a meal to go—ask them to riscaldare (heat up) their white lasagne al pesto or dish up their special carpaccio di polpo—thinly sliced octopus (daily June-Aug 7:30-13:00 & 15:30-20:00, closed Wed Sept-May, right of the church on Via Cavour, tel. 0185-287-172). The Gulliver supermarket, just off Via Dogali at #22, has good prices (daily 8:30-20:00, tel. 0185-282-700), as does the Co-op grocery, off Piazza Mazzini at Corso Giacomo Matteotti 9 (Mon-Sat 8:15-13:00 & 15:30-19:30, Sun 8:30-13:00). Any of these stores is a good place to stock up on well-priced Ligurian olive oil, pasta, and pesto.
From Santa Margherita Ligure by Train to: Sestri Levante (2/hour, 30 minutes), Monterosso (at least hourly, 45 minutes), La Spezia (hourly, 1-1.5 hours), Pisa (1-2/hour, 2-2.5 hours, most connections with transfer, less frequent InterCity/IC goes direct), Milan (about hourly, 2-2.5 hours, more with transfer in Genoa), Ventimiglia/French border (4/day, 4 hours; or hourly with change in Genoa), Venice (at least hourly, 5.5-6.5 hours with 1-3 changes). For Florence, transfer in Pisa (8/day, 3.5-4 hours). See “Getting Around the Cinque Terre—By Train” on here for details.
By Boat to the Cinque Terre: For the latest, pick up a schedule of departures and excursion options from the TI, visit the ticket shack on the dock, call 0185-284-670 or mobile 336-253-336, or check online at www.traghettiportofino.it. The routes mentioned below run at least once weekly from May through September or October, increasing in frequency in July and August.
“Tour 3” is an all-day trip that includes two stopovers: one hour in Vernazza and three hours in Portovenere, plus a scenic trip around an island (mid-April-Sept departs Sun at 8:45, plus Thu July-Sept, €22 one-way, €33 round-trip).
The half-day “Tour 4” boat sails to the Cinque Terre with a one-hour stopover in Vernazza (July-Sept departs Tue and Fri at 13:30, €17.50 one-way, €25.50 round-trip).
The “Tour 5 Super Cinque Terre” boat offers day-trip cruises from Santa Margherita Ligure to the Cinque Terre, departing at 8:45 and stopping in three Cinque Terre towns: three hours in Monterosso, and an hour each in Vernazza and Riomaggiore (Wed May-Sept, plus Sat July-Sept, €22 one-way, €33 round-trip).
Santa Margherita Ligure, with its aristocratic architecture, hints at old money, whereas nearby Portofino, with its sleek shops, has the sheen of new money. Fortunately, a few pizzerias, focaccerie, bars, and grocery shops are mixed in with Portofino’s jewelry shops, art galleries, and haute couture boutiques, making the town affordable. The piccolo harbor, classic Italian architecture, and wooded peninsula can turn glitzy Portofino into an appealing package. It makes a fun day trip from Santa Margherita Ligure.
Ever since the Romans founded Portofino for its safe harbor, it has had a strategic value (appreciated by everyone from Napoleon to the Nazis). In the 1950s, National Geographic did a beautiful exposé on the idyllic port, and locals claim that’s when the Hollywood elite took note. Liz Taylor and Richard Burton came here annually (as did Liz Taylor and Eddie Fisher). During one famous party, Rex Harrison dropped his Oscar into the bay (it was recovered). Ava Gardner came down from her villa each evening for a drink—sporting her famous fur coat. Greta Garbo loved to swim naked in the harbor, not knowing that half the town was watching. Truman Capote also called Portofino home. But VIPs were also here a century earlier. In one of his books, Friedrich Nietzsche wrote about philosophizing with the mythical prophet Zarathustra on the path between Portofino and Santa Margherita.
My favorite Portofino plan: Visit for the evening. Leave Santa Margherita on the bus at about 16:30 and hike the last 20 minutes from Paraggi beach. Explore Portofino. Splurge for a drink on the harborfront, or get a takeout fruity sundae (paciugo; pah-CHOO-goh) and sit by the water. Then return by bus to Santa Margherita for dinner (confirm late departures). Portofino offers all kinds of harborside dining, but the quality often doesn’t match the high prices. If you do decide to eat in Portofino, Ristorante lo Stella, just a few steps from the boat dock, has well-prepared dishes, friendly servers, and portholes in the bathrooms. Opposite the boat dock, little Calata 32 dishes up cones and cups (Thu-Tue 8:00-late, closed Wed except July-Aug, €3 and up).
Portofino makes an easy day trip from Santa Margherita by bus, boat, bike, or foot.
By Bus: Catch bus #82 from Santa Margherita’s train station or at bus stops along the harbor (main stop in front of TI, €1.80, 2-3/hour, 15 minutes, goes to Paraggi or Portofino). Buy tickets at the bar next to the train station, at Piazza Veneto’s green bus kiosk (next to the TI; daily 7:00-19:30), from the green machine on the side of the kiosk, or at any newsstand, tobacco shop, or shop that displays a Biglietti Bus sign. You can usually buy tickets on the bus—for double the cost. If you’re at the Piazza Veneto kiosk, grab a bus schedule, which will come in handy if you travel in the evening (last bus around 23:00, #82).
In Portofino, get tickets at the newsstand or tobacco store on Piazza della Libertà, or from the machine next to the bus stop (go uphill from the harbor and you’ll come to the piazza—newsstand and tobacco store on the left side; ticket machine and bus stop on the right, directions in English).
By Boat: The boat makes the 15-minute trip with more class and without the traffic jams (€6 one-way, €9 round-trip, €0.50 more on Sun and holidays; nearly hourly departures daily May-Sept 10:15-16:15, Oct-April at 10:15, 11:15, 14:15, and 15:15; dock is a 2-minute walk from Piazza Veneto off Piazza Martiri della Libertà, call to confirm or pick up schedule from TI or your hotel, tel. 0185-284-670, mobile 336-253-336, check at www.traghettiportofino.it). This company also runs boats from Santa Margherita to the Cinque Terre (see here). The boat from Portofino back to Santa Margherita departs nearly hourly in summer (daily May-Sept 12:00-18:00; Oct-April at 12:00, 13:00, 15:00, and 16:00).
By Bike: The 25-minute bike ride from Santa Margherita to Portofino is doable for cautious cyclists. While there are no steep hills to struggle up, the road is narrow, with many blind corners. Many of my recommended hotels provide free loaner bikes (though they may not be in the best condition); you can also rent your own wheels (see here).
On Foot: To hike the entire distance from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino, you have two options: You can follow the sidewalk along (and sometimes hanging over) the sea (1 hour, 2.5 miles)—although traffic can be noisy, and in places, the footpath disappears. Or, if you’re hardy and ambitious, you can take a quieter two-hour hike by leaving Santa Margherita at Via Maragliano, then follow the Ligurian-symbol trail markers (look for red-and-white stripes—they’re not always obvious, sometimes numbered according to the path you’re on, usually painted on rocks or walls, especially at junctions). This hike takes you high into the hills. Keep left after Cappelletta delle Gave. Several blocks past a castle, you’ll drop down into the Paraggi beach, where you’ll take the Portofino trail the rest of the way.
Bus and Hike Option: For a shorter hike (20 minutes) into Portofino, ride bus #82 from Santa Margherita only as far as the small but ritzy Paraggi beach. (Ask on board where to get off—watch for an inland bay with green water and a sandy beach.) At the far end of the beach, cross the street, climb the steps, and follow the hilly, paved trail marked Pedonali per Portofino high above the road. Twenty minutes later, you’ll enter Portofino at a yellow-and-gray-striped church labeled Divo Martino—which I figure means “the divine Martin” and has something to do with Dean Martin giving us all “Volare” (which I couldn’t get out of my head for the rest of the day).
Tourist Information: Portofino’s TI is uphill from the boat dock and downhill from the bus stop (look for it under a portico—it’s on your left coming from the dock, or on your right coming from the bus). Pick up a free town map and a rudimentary hiking map (June-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Mon; Oct-May Tue-Sat 9:30-13:30 & 14:00-17:00, closed Sun-Mon; Via Roma 35, tel. 0185-269-024).
For an artsy break, walk around the harbor to the right, where you can stroll around a park littered with 148 contemporary sculptures by mostly Italian artists, including a few top names (€5, June-Oct Wed-Mon 10:00-13:00 & 15:00-19:00, closed Tue, closed Nov-May and in bad weather, mobile 337-333-737, www.museodiportofino.it.
One option is the paved stone path that winds up and down to the lighthouse (faro) at a scenic point with a bar (take the stairs on the right just after Museo del Parco, bar open May-Sept, hedges block views until the end, 25-minute walk). Consider popping into Castello Brown, a medieval castle, on the way up or down. It features lush gardens, sweeping viewpoints, and special exhibits about Portofino and its history. Minimal original decorations and exhibits are explained in English (€5, cash only, March-Oct daily 10:00-19:00, Nov-Feb Sat-Sun until 17:00 in winter, tel. 0185-267-101, www.castellobrown.com).
Or you could stroll the hilly pedestrian promenade through the trees from Portofino to Paraggi beach, and, if you’re lucky, see a wild boar en route (20 minutes, path starts to the right of yellow-and-gray-striped Divo Martino church—look for clock tower, parallels main road, ends at ritzy Paraggi beach, where it’s easy to catch bus back to Santa Margherita Ligure).
Another option is to hike out to San Fruttuoso Abbey and the nearby underwater Christ statue (described next; the hike there is steep at beginning and end, takes about 2.5 hours from Portofino—pick up the trailhead at the inland-most point of town, past Piazza della Libertà and the carabinieri station; you can also hike all the way there from Santa Margherita in about 4.5 hours via Portofino).
The Parco di Portofino can provide more information on the many hiking trails that crisscross Portofino’s regional parklands (tel. 0185 289-479, www.parcoportofino.it).
This 11th-century abbey is accessible only by foot (a 2.5-hour hike from Portofino, 4.5 hours from Santa Margherita) or boat (from either Portofino, Santa Margherita, or Camogli; abbey entry-€5, more for special exhibits; June-Sept daily 10:00-17:45; Oct-May daily 10:00-15:45 except closed Mon in winter; last entry 45 minutes before closing, tel. 0185-772-703, www.fondoambiente.it). But the abbey itself isn’t the main attraction. The more intriguing draw is 60 feet underwater, offshore from the abbey, in a specially protected marine area: the statue Christ of the Abyss (Cristo degli Abissi). A boat will take you out to a spot above the statue, where you can look down to just barely see the arms of Jesus—outstretched, reaching upward. Some people bring goggles and dive in for a better view. The statue was placed there in 1954 for the divine protection of the region’s divers (€6, trips depart from San Fruttuoso at Sat July-Aug at 15:30, some Mon and Wed sailings—check schedule at www.sopraesottoilmare.net or ask at Portofino TI).
Getting There: The same boats that link Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino continue on to the San Fruttuoso Abbey (schedule at www.traghettiportofino.it). From Easter through September, a different company’s boats continue north from the abbey to Camogli (train station), Recco, and Punta Chiappa (€5-8 one-way, can return to Santa Margherita by train from Camogli or buy round-trip boat tickets, tel. 0185-772-091, schedule at www.golfoparadiso.it). For details inquire at the TI in Portofino or Santa Margherita.
While just a quick train ride away from the fanciful Cinque Terre (20-30 minutes), the working town of La Spezia feels like “reality Italy.” Primarily a jumping-off point for travelers, the town is slim on sights, and has no beaches.
The pedestrian zone on Via del Prione to the gardens along the harbor makes a pleasant stroll. The nearly deserted Museo Amedeo Lia displays Italian paintings from the 13th to 18th century, including minor works by Venetian masters Titian, Tintoretto, and Canaletto (€7, photos OK with €10 permit and no flash, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, last entry 30 minutes before closing, audioguide-€3, English descriptions on laminated sheets in most rooms, WCs down the hall from ticket desk, 10-minute walk from station at Via del Prione 234, tel. 0187-731-100, http://museolia.spezianet.it).
Stay in the Cinque Terre if you can. But if you’re in a bind, I’ve listed several La Spezia accommodations. I’ve also listed (under “Eating in La Spezia”) some places to grab a meal while you wait for a train.
The Cinque Terre National Park office is on the platform at track 1—facing the tracks, go right (daily 7:30-19:30, off-season 9:00-17:00, guest computer-€1.50/20 minutes, tel. 0187-743-500, www.parconazionale5terre.it).
By Train: Get off at the La Spezia Centrale stop. You can check your bags at the train station (see “Helpful Hints,” next). Exit the station down the road to the left, where several recommended hotels and eateries are located. Another exit takes you out onto Via Fiume by way of the parking garage.
By Car: A handy parking option is under the train station, at the Park Centro Stazione (enter from Via Fiume; €1.20/hour, €6/half-day, about €17/day, or a few euros cheaper with complicated online pre-registration, www.mobpark.eu, tel. 0187-187-5303; when returning, punch the code from your ticket into the keypad to open the door). You can park for free at Piazza d’Armi—look for the entrance at Via XV Giugno 1918 (a 20-minute walk to station, or take €1 shuttle bus to Piazza Brin, a 5-minute walk to station; at least 3/hour).
Market Days: A colorful covered market sets up in Piazza Cavour (Mon-Sat 7:00-13:00). On Fridays, a huge all-day open-air market sprawls along Viale Garibaldi, about six blocks from the station.
Baggage Storage: A left-luggage service is at the train station along track 1 (facing the tracks on platform 1, go left; it’s next to the WC). It’s secure, though it isn’t always staffed—ring the bell to the left of the doorway to call the attendant. Since you may have to wait, allow plenty of time to pick up your baggage before departing (€3/12 hours, €2 extra per additional 12 hours, daily 8:00-22:00, they’ll photocopy your ID).
Laundry: A handy self-service launderette is just below the train station. Head down toward town, and immediately at the first piazza take a sharp right on Via Fiume—it’s on your left at #95 (one-hour wash and dry-€8, daily 7:00-21:00, mobile 320-055-6968 ).
Booking Agency: Cinque Terre Riviera books rooms and apartments in La Spezia, the Cinque Terre, and Portovenere for a 10 percent markup (see here for contact info).
Getting to the Cinque Terre: Trains leave at least twice hourly for the Cinque Terre, though not all trains stop at all towns. The Cinque Terre Treno Multi-Service Card (covers train ride to Cinque Terre as well as hiking fee—see here) is sold at the train-station ticket window and at the national park office in the station (see “Tourist Information,” at the beginning of this section). For more details, see “Getting Around the Cinque Terre” on here. It’s also possible to take boat excursions to the Cinque Terre, Portovenere, and outer islands from the La Spezia dock; for current schedules, check at the TI, dock, or www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it.
Remember, sleep in La Spezia only as a last resort. These hotels and rooms are within a five-minute walk of La Spezia’s station—except the last two listings, which work well for drivers only. Prices listed are the high-season rates.
$$$ Hotel Firenze e Continentale is grand and Old World, but newly restored with a mountain-view breakfast room to boot. Just to the left of the station, its 68 rooms have all the usual comforts (prices vary, but generally Sb-€100, Db-€160-180, email for best rate, 10 percent discount on best available rate if you book directly with the hotel and mention this book when you reserve, cheaper during slow times, double-paned windows, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, garage parking-€22/day, Via Paleocapa 7, tel. 0187-713-200 or 0187-713-210, www.hotelfirenzecontinentale.it, info@hotelfirenzecontinentale.it).
$$ Hotel Astoria, with 47 decent rooms, has a combination lobby and breakfast room as large as a school cafeteria (older Db without air-con-€80; Db-€95 for the 10 summery, modern “superior” rooms with air-con; elevator to some rooms, Wi-Fi; take Via Milano left of Albergo Parma, go 3 blocks, and turn left to reach Via Roma 139; tel. 0187-714-655, www.albergoastoria.com, info@albergoastoria.com).
$$ Mary Hotel, directly across from the train station, has 48 decent rooms above a big lounge/game room (Sb-€65, Db-€100, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Fiume 177, tel. 0187-743-254, www.hotelmary.it, info@hotelmary.it, friendly Luca).
Affitta camera—guesthouses or rented rooms with no official reception—abound near the station. Expect good deals, modest English skills, and no breakfast (buy yourself a coffee and pastry at a nearby bar).
$$ Casa da Nè/Tre Frè has 14 chic rooms with comfy linens and orange trees outside the door. It’s located so close to the station that some rooms look out at the tracks; luckily, the windows are double-paned (Db-€80, Tb-€100, Qb-€120, includes breakfast at a café, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Paleocapa 4, mobile 347-351-3239, www.trefre.it, info@trefre.it, Paolo).
$$ L’Arca di Noè B&B is homey, with three bright and artsy rooms that offer one of the best deals on the Cinque Terre (two have a bathroom inside the room, while the other has a private bathroom down the hall). A group could take the entire massive apartment (D-€60, Tb-€90, cash only, includes breakfast, air-con, communal kitchen, 5-minute walk from station at Via Fiume 39, mobile 320-485-2434, montialessandra@email.it, Alessandra).
$$ Il Gelsomino, for drivers only, is another homey B&B in the hills above La Spezia overlooking the Gulf of Poets. It has three tranquil rooms: one with a bayview terrace, one with hillside views, and a third that lacks views or a terrace (Db-€70, Tb-€90, Qb-€110, reconfirm several days in advance with your arrival time, large breakfast, Via dei Viseggi 9, tel. 0187-704-201, www.ilgelsomino.biz, ilgelsomino@inwind.it, gracious Carla and Walter Massi). Don’t confuse this B&B with the one named Il Gelsomino d’Oro.
$ Santa Maria del Mare Monastery, a last resort for drivers, rents 15 comfortable rooms to spiritual travelers high above La Spezia in a scenic but institutional setting (donation only, recommended offerings: dorm bed-€35, Db-€60, includes breakfast, additional €15/person for a meal, Via Montalbano 135B, tel. 0187-711-332, mobile 347-848-3993, www.santamariadelmare.it, madre@santamariadelmare.191.it).
Ristorante Roma da Marcellin, a one-minute walk from the station, has a cool, leafy terrace that’s ideal for relaxing while you await your train. Grandpa Ottorino cooks up the freshest catch, as well as homemade ravioli and spaghetti frutti di mare (€8-12 pastas, €10-15 secondi, daily 12:15-15:00 & 19:30-23:00; as you exit the station, turn left—it’s across from Hotel Firenze e Continentale at Via Paleocapa 18; tel. 0187-715-921).
Gira dal Pomo Pizzeria, just a few doors farther down on the corner of Via Zampino, offers more reasonable prices and an extensive selection of €6-8 pizzas. Practice your Italian with the chalkboard display of pastas of the day (Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, Sat 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, Piazza S. Bon 5, tel. 0187-301-284).
From La Spezia by Train to: Monterosso (2-3/hour, 15-30 minutes), Carrara (2/hour, 25 minutes), Viareggio (2/hour, 30-60 minutes), Pisa (about hourly, 1-1.5 hours), Florence (5/day direct, 2.5 hours, otherwise nearly hourly with change in Pisa), Rome (8/day direct, more with transfers in Pisa, 3-4.5 hours), Milan (about hourly, 3 hours direct or with change in Genoa), Venice (about hourly, 5-6 hours, 1-3 changes).
By Bus to Portovenere: City buses generally depart from Viale Garibaldi (bus #P, 2/hour, 30 minutes, €2.50 each way; bus #11 also makes this trip, but only mid-June-mid-Sept; buy tickets at tobacco shops or newsstands). From the La Spezia train station, exit left and head downhill, following the street to the first square (Piazza S. Bon). Continue down the pedestrian stretch of Via Fiume to Piazza Garibaldi, then turn right at the fountain in the square onto Viale Garibaldi; the bus stop for Portovenere-bound buses is after the first stoplight on the right side of the street. A timetable is posted by the bus stop.
What are perhaps the world’s most famous marble quarries are just east of La Spezia in Carrara. Michelangelo himself traveled to these valleys to pick out the marble that he would work into his masterpieces. The towns of the region are dominated by marble. The quarries higher up are vast digs that dwarf the hardworking trucks and machinery coming and going. The Marble Museum (Museo Civico del Marmo) traces the story of marble-cutting here from pre-Roman times until today (€4.50, May-Sept Mon-Sat 9:30-13:00 & 15:30-18:00, Oct-April Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 14:30-17:00, closed Sun year-round, Viale XX Settembre 85, tel. 0585-845-746, www.museodelmarmo.com).
For a guided visit, Sara Paolini is excellent (€80/half-day tour, mobile 373-711-6695, sarapaolini@hotmail.com). She is accustomed to meeting drivers at the Carrara freeway exit, or she can pick you up at the train station.
While the gritty port of La Spezia offers little in the way of redeeming touristic value, the nearby resort of Portovenere is enchanting. This Cinque Terre-esque village clings to a rocky promontory that juts into the sea and protects the harbor from the crashing waves. On the harbor, next to colorful bobbing boats, a row of restaurants—perfect for al fresco dining—feature local specialties such as trenette pasta with pesto and spaghetti con frutti di mare.
Local boats take you on a 40-minute excursion around three nearby islands or over to Lerici, the town across the bay. Lord Byron swam to Lerici (not recommended). Hardy hikers enjoy the five-hour (or more) hike to Riomaggiore, the nearest Cinque Terre town.
Getting There: Portovenere—not to be confused with Portofino—is an easy day trip from the Cinque Terre by boat (mid-June-Oct, 4-6/day, 1 hour, €13 one-way, €25 day pass includes hopping on and off and either Lerici or a jaunt around three small islands near Portovenere, www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it). You can also cruise between Portovenere and Santa Margherita Ligure, with stops in Vernazza and Sestri Levante, using another boat line (www.traghettiportofino.it)—see “Santa Margherita Ligure Connections” on here. Pick up a schedule of departures and excursion options from the TI, or ask at your hotel. Or you can take the bus from La Spezia (bus #P, 2/hour, 30 minutes, €2.50 each way; bus #11 also makes this trip, but only mid-June-mid-Sept and off-season Sat; in La Spezia buy tickets at tobacco shops or newsstands; in Portovenere get tickets at TI; for directions to the bus stop in La Spezia, see here). Parking is a nightmare here from May through September, but Albergo Il Genio offers free parking. In peak season, buses shuttle drivers from the parking lot just outside Portovenere to the harborside square. Otherwise, test your luck with the spots on the seaside (€2/hour).
Tourist Information: The TI is easy to find in the main square (June-Sept daily 10:00-12:00 & 15:00-19:45, Oct-May shorter hours and closed Wed, Piazza Bastreri 7, tel. 0187-790-691, www.prolocoportovenere.it).
Sleeping in Portovenere: If you’ve forgotten your yacht, try $$$ Albergo Il Genio, in the building where the main street hits the piazza (Db-€100, Qb-€130, some rooms with views, no elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free parking—request when you reserve, Piazza Bastreri 8, tel. 0187-790-611, www.hotelgenioportovenere.com, info@hotelgenioportovenere.com).