Map: Basilica of St. Francis—Lower Level
Map: Basilica of St. Francis—Upper Level
Map: Assisi Hotels & Restaurants
Assisi is famous for its hometown boy, St. Francis, who made very, very good. While Francis the saint is interesting, Francesco Bernardone the man is even more so, and mementos of his days in Assisi are everywhere—where he was baptized, a shirt he wore, a hill he prayed on, and a church where a vision changed his life.
About the year 1200, this simple friar from Assisi countered the decadence of Church government and society in general with a powerful message of nonmaterialism and a “slow down and smell God’s roses” lifestyle. Like Jesus, Francis taught by example, living without worldly goods and aiming to love all creation. A huge monastic order grew out of his teachings, which were gradually embraced (some would say co-opted) by the Church. Christianity’s most popular saint and its purest example of simplicity is now glorified in beautiful churches, along with his female counterpart, St. Clare. In 1939, Italy made Francis one of its patron saints; in 2013, the newly elected pope took his name.
Francis’ message of love, simplicity, and sensitivity to the environment has a broad and timeless appeal. But every pilgrimage site inevitably gets commercialized, and Francis’ legacy is now Assisi’s basic industry. In summer, this Umbrian town bursts with flash-in-the-pan Francis fans and Franciscan knickknacks. Those able to see past the glow-in-the-dark rosaries and bobblehead friars can actually have a “travel on purpose” experience. Even a block or two off the congested main drag, you’ll find pockets of serenity that, it’s easy to imagine, must have made Francis feel at peace.
Assisi is worth a day and a night. Its old town has a half-day of sightseeing and another half-day of wonder. The essential sight is the Basilica of St. Francis. For a good visit, take my self-guided Assisi walk, ending at the Basilica of St. Francis. With more time, be sure to wander the back streets and linger on the main square, Piazza del Comune.
Most visitors are day-trippers. While the town’s a zoo by day, it’s a delight at night. Assisi after dark is closer to a place Francis could call home.
Crowned by a ruined castle, Assisi spills downhill to its famous Basilica of St. Francis. The town is beautifully preserved and rich in history. A 5.5-magnitude earthquake in 1997 did more damage to the tourist industry than to the town’s buildings. Fortunately, tourists—whether art lovers, pilgrims, or both—have returned, drawn by Assisi’s special allure.
The city stretches across a ridge that rises from a flat plain. The Basilica of St. Francis sits at the low end of town; Piazza Matteotti (bus stop and parking lot) is at the high end; and the main square, Piazza del Comune, lies in between. The main drag (called Via San Francesco for most of its course) runs from Piazza del Comune to the basilica. Capping the hill above the town is the ruined castle, called the Rocca Maggiore, and rising above that is Mount Subasio. The town is smaller than its fame might lead you to think: Walking uphill from the basilica to Piazza Matteotti takes 30 minutes, while the downhill journey takes about 15 minutes. Some Francis sights lie outside the city walls, in the valley beneath the ridge (the modern part of town, called Santa Maria degli Angeli) and in the hills above.
The TI, which hands out free maps, is in the center of the old town on Piazza del Comune (Mon-Fri 8:00-14:00 & 15:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 9:30-17:00—until 18:00 in April-Oct, tel. 075-813-8680). From April to October, there’s also a branch down in the valley in Santa Maria degli Angeli, across the street from the big piazza in front of the Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels.
Discovery Station Assisi, located in the train station in Santa Maria degli Angeli, is a volunteer-run children’s science and tech center that also serves as an unofficial TI. Here you can store luggage (€3, confirm closing time), access Wi-Fi (€2, unlimited use), buy bus tickets, and get maps and advice for the entire region (open daily, irregular hours, easiest to find if you exit station and go left 20 yards, donations appreciated, tel. 075-804-4507).
By Train: The train station is about two miles below Assisi, in Santa Maria degli Angeli. You can check bags in the station at the newsstand (€3/12 hours, daily 6:45-12:30 & 13:00-19:30) or at Discovery Station Assisi (listed earlier), but not in the old town.
Orange city buses connect the station with the old town on the hilltop. Buses (line #C) usually leave at :16 and :46 past the hour from the bus stop immediately to your left as you exit the station (daily 5:30-23:00, 15 minutes; buy tickets at the newsstand inside the train station for €1.30, or on board the bus for €2—exact change only, validate in yellow box as you board, valid 1.5 hours after being stamped, good for any bus within the old town). On the way up into town, buses stop at Piazza Giovanni Paolo II (near Basilica of St. Francis), then Largo Properzio (just outside the Porta Nuova city gate), and finally Piazza Matteotti (top of old town).
Going from the old town to the train station, the orange buses usually run from Piazza Matteotti at :10 and :40 past the hour (stopping outside Porta Nuova at Largo Properzio a couple of minutes later, and in Piazza Giovanni Paolo II a few minutes after that).
Taxis from the train station to the old town cost about €15. You can be charged extra for luggage, night service, additional people (four is customary)...and sometimes just for being a tourist. When departing the old town, you’ll find taxi stands at Piazza Giovanni Paolo II, the Basilica of St. Francis, the Basilica of St. Clare, and Piazza del Comune (or have your hotel call for you, tel. 075-813-100). Expect to pay a minimum of €10 for any ride.
By Bus: Buses from Siena arrive at the stop next to the Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels, near the train station (see above for directions from the station into town). Most other intercity buses arrive in the old town.
By Car: Drivers coming in for the day can follow the signs to several handy parking lots (parcheggi). Piazza Matteotti’s wonderful underground parking garage (#C) is at the top of the town and comes with bits of ancient Rome in the walls. Another big lot, Parcheggio Giovanni Paolo II (#A), is at the bottom end of town, 200 yards below the Basilica of St. Francis. Between them is the unlettered Parcheggio Mojano; although outside the town wall, this comes with an escalator that transports you near the Basilica of St. Clare. At Parcheggio Porta Nuova (#B), an elevator delivers you to Porta Nuova near St. Clare’s. The lots vary in price (€1.30-1.60/hour, most €10-12/day but Matteotti costs €19/day). For day-trippers, the best plan is to park at Piazza Matteotti, follow my self-guided town walk, tour the basilica, and then either catch a bus back to Piazza Matteotti or simply wander back up through town to your car.
Best Shopping: Tacky knickknacks line the streets leading to the Basilica of St. Francis. For better shops (with local handicrafts), head to Via San Rufino and Corso Mazzini (both just off Piazza del Comune, shops described later in the Assisi self-guided walk). A Saturday-morning market fills Via Borgo San Pietro (along the bottom edge of town).
Festivals: Assisi annually hosts several interesting festivals commemorating St. Francis and life in the Middle Ages. Festa di Calendimaggio is a springtime medieval festival featuring costume parades, concerts, and competitions among Assisi’s rival neighborhoods (www.calendimaggiodiassisi.it). Rustic medieval “taverns” pop up around the center offering porchetta (roasted pig) and vino (starts the first Thu-Sat in May; if one of these days is already a public holiday, it’s held the following week). The Settimana Francescana commemorates the beginning of the end of Francis’ life, when he made his way for the last time to the Porziuncola Chapel (Sept 28). This week-long celebration culminates in the Festa di San Francesco, which marks his death with religious processions, special services, and an arts, crafts, and folklore fair. The TI has a monthly Assisi Informa leaflet with details on upcoming festivals and celebrations; see also the event listings at www.assisi.regioneumbria.eu.
In 1202, young Francesco Bernardone donned armor and rode out to battle the Perugians (residents of Umbria’s capital city). The battle went badly, and Francis was captured and imprisoned for a year. He returned a changed man. He avoided friends and his father’s lucrative business and spent more and more time outside the city walls fasting, praying, and searching for something.
In 1206, a vision changed his life, culminating in a dramatic confrontation. He stripped naked before the town leaders, threw his clothes at his father—turning his back on the comfortable material life—and declared his loyalty to God alone.
Idealistic young men flocked to Francis, and they wandered Italy like troubadours, spreading the joy of the Gospel to rich and poor. Francis became a cult figure, attracting huge crowds. They’d never seen anything like it—sermons preached outdoors, in the local language (not Church Latin), making God accessible to all. Francis’ new order of monks was also extremely unmaterialistic, extolling poverty and simplicity. Despite their radicalism, the order eventually gained the pope’s approval and spread through the world. Francis, who died in Assisi at the age of 45, left a legacy of humanism, equality, and love of nature that would eventually flower in the Renaissance.
1. Baptized in Assisi’s Cathedral of San Rufino (then called St. George’s).
2. Raised in the family home just off Piazza del Comune (now the Chiesa Nuova).
3. Heard call to “rebuild church” in San Damiano. (The crucifix of the church is now in the Basilica of St. Clare.)
4. Settled and established his order of monks at the Porziuncola Chapel (inside today’s St. Mary of the Angels Basilica).
5. Met Clare. (Her tomb and possessions are at the Basilica of St. Clare.)
6. Received the pope’s blessing for his order (1223 document in the reliquary chapel at the Basilica of St. Francis).
7. Had many visions and was associated with miracles during his life (depicted in Giotto’s frescoes in the Basilica of St. Francis’ upper level).
8. Died at the Porziuncola, his body later interred beneath the Basilica of St. Francis.
Internet Access: Facing the Cathedral of San Rufino, Caffè Duomo has free Wi-Fi and Internet access for customers (daily 7:00-23:00, snacks, Piazza San Rufino 5, tel. 075-813-023). Wi-Fi is also available at the train station in the Discovery Center Assisi (see “Tourist Information,” earlier).
Laundry: 3elleblu’ Lavanderia can do a load of laundry for you at a reasonable price on the same day, if they’re not too busy (€5/wash, €4.50/dry, Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-13:00, closed Sun, Via Borgo Aretino 6a—see map on here, tel. 075-816-084).
Travel Agencies: You can purchase train, bus, and plane tickets at Agenzia Viaggi Stoppini, centrally located between Piazza del Comune and the Basilica of St. Clare. Manager Fabrizio is patient with tourists’ needs (Mon-Fri 9:00-12:30 & 15:30-19:00, Sat 9:00-12:30, closed Sun, also offers day trips to nearby towns, Corso Mazzini 31—see map on here, tel. 075-812-597, www.viaggistoppiniassisi.it).
Local Guides: Giuseppe Karabotis is a good licensed guide (€130/2.5 hours, €260/6 hours, mobile 328-867-0567, iokarabot@libero.it). Daniela Moretti is a hardworking young guide from Perugia who knows both Assisi and all of Umbria (€120/half-day, €240/day, mobile 335-829-9984, www.danyguide.com, danyguide@hotmail.com). If they’re busy, they can recommend other guides.
Most visitors need only their feet to get everywhere in Assisi, except to the train station and nearby Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels (via bus #C—see directions in “Arrival in Assisi,”).
Within the old town, pale-yellow minibuses #A and #B run every 20-40 minutes, linking the lower end (near the Basilica of St. Francis) with the middle (Piazza del Comune) and the top (Piazza Matteotti). While it’s only a 15-minute stroll from the upper end to the lower, the climb back up can have you looking for a lift. Hop on a bus marked Piazza Matteotti if you’re exhausted after your basilica visit and need a sweat-free five-minute return to the top of the old town (near many of my recommended hotels). Before boarding, confirm the destination (catch the bus below the Basilica of St. Francis at the Porta San Francisco).
You can buy a bus ticket (good on any city bus) at a newsstand or kiosk for €1.30, or get a ticket from the driver for €2 (exact change only). After you’ve stamped your ticket on board the bus, it’s valid for 90 minutes.
(See “Welcome to Assisi Walk” map, here.)
There’s much more to Assisi than just St. Francis and what the blitz tour groups see. This self-guided walk, worth ▲▲, covers the town from top (Piazza Matteotti) to bottom (Basilica of St. Francis). To get to Piazza Matteotti, ride the bus from the train station (or from Piazza Giovanni Paolo II) to the last stop; drive up (and park in the underground lot); or hike five minutes uphill from Piazza del Comune.
You can download a free Rick Steves audio tour of this walk; see here.
• Start 50 yards beyond Piazza Matteotti (down the small lane, away from city center—see map).
The Roman Amphitheater (Anfiteatro Romano)A lane named Via Anfiteatro Romano skirts the cozy neighborhood built around a Roman amphitheater—a reminder that Assisi was once an important Roman town. Circle the amphitheater counterclockwise. Imagine how colorful the town laundry basin (on the right) must have been in previous generations, when the women of Assisi gathered here to do their wash. Just beyond the basin is a small rectangular pool; above it are the coats of arms of Assisi’s leading families. A few steps farther, leave the amphitheater, hiking up the stairs on the right to the top of the hill, for an aerial view of the ancient oval. The Roman stones have long been absorbed into the medieval architecture. It was Roman tradition to locate the amphitheater outside of town, which this used to be. While the amphitheater dates from the first century A.D., the buildings filling it today were built in the 13th and 14th centuries.
• Continue on, enjoying the grand view of the fortress in the distance. The lane leads down to a city gate and an...
Umbrian ViewStep outside of Assisi at the Porta Perlici for a commanding view. Umbria, called the “green heart of Italy,” is the country’s geographical center and only landlocked region. Enjoy the various shades of green: silver green on the valley floor (olives), emerald green (grapevines), and deep green on the hillsides (evergreen oak trees). Also notice Rocca Maggiore (“big fortress”), which provided townsfolk a refuge in times of attack, and, behind you atop the nearer hill, Rocca Minore (“little fortress”), which gives the town’s young lovers a little privacy. The quarry (under the Rocca Maggiore) was a handy source for Assisi’s characteristic pink limestone.
• Go back through the gate and follow Via Porta Perlici—it’s immediately on your right—downhill into town (toward Hotel La Rocca). Enjoy the higgledy-piggledy architecture (this neighborhood has some of the most photogenic back lanes in town). Fifty yards down, to the left of the arched gate, find the wall containing an aqueduct that dates back to Roman times. It still brings water from a mountain spring into the city (push the brass tap for a taste). After another 50 yards, turn left through a medieval town gate (with Hotel La Rocca on your right). Just after the hotel, you’ll pass a second gate dating from Roman times. Follow Via Porta Perlici downhill until you hit a fine square facing a big church.
Cathedral of San Rufino (Cattedrale San Rufino)Trick question: Who’s Assisi’s patron saint? While Francis is one of Italy’s patron saints, Rufino (the town’s first bishop, martyred and buried here in the third century) is Assisi’s. This cathedral (seat of the local bishop) is 11th-century Romanesque with a Neoclassical interior, and dedicated to Rufino. Although it has what is considered to be one of the best and purest Romanesque facades in all of Umbria, the big triangular top (just a decorative wall) was added in Gothic times.
Cost and Hours: Cathedral—free, daily 7:30-19:00, Nov-mid-March closed Mon-Fri 12:30-14:30, tel. 075-812-283; crypt/museum—€3.50, mid-March-mid-Oct Thu-Tue 10:00-13:00 & 15:00-18:00, longer hours in Aug, shorter hours mid-Oct-mid-March, closed Wed except in Aug, last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 075-812-712, www.assisimuseodiocesano.com.
Visiting the Church: Before going in, study the lions at the base of the facade, flanking each door. One is eating a Christian martyr, reminding worshippers of the courage of early Christians.
Enter the church. While the front of the church is an unremarkable mix of 17th- and 18th-century Baroque and Neoclassical, the rear (near where you enter) has several points of interest. Notice first the two fine statues: St. Francis and St. Clare (by Giovanni Dupré, 1888). To your right is an old baptismal font (in the corner with the semicircular black iron grate). In about 1181, a baby boy was baptized in this font. His parents were upwardly mobile Francophiles who called him Francesco (“Frenchy”). In 1194, a nobleman baptized his daughter Clare here. Eighteen years later, their paths crossed in this same church, when Clare attended a class and became mesmerized by the teacher—Francis. Traditionally, the children of Assisi are still baptized here.
The striking glass panels in the floor reveal foundations preserved from the ninth-century church that once stood here. You’re walking on history. After the 1997 earthquake, structural inspectors checked the church from ceiling to floor. When they looked under the paving stones, they discovered graves (until Napoleon decreed otherwise, it was common practice to bury people in churches). Underneath that level, they found Roman foundations and some animal bones (suggesting the possibility of animal sacrifice). There might have been a Roman temple here; churches were often built upon temple ruins. Stand at the back of the church facing the altar, and look left to the Roman cistern (inside the great stone archway, next to where you entered). Take the three steps down (to trigger the light) and marvel at the fine stonework and Roman engineering. In the Middle Ages, this was the town’s emergency water source when under attack.
Underneath the church, incorporated into the Roman ruins, are the foundations of an earlier Church of San Rufino, now the crypt and Diocesan museum. When it’s open, you can go below to see the saint’s sarcophagus and the small museum featuring the cathedral’s art from centuries past (down the stairs, near the baptismal font).
• Leaving the church, take a sharp left (at the pizza-by-the-slice joint, on Via Dono Doni). After 20 yards, take a right and go all the way down the stairway to see some...
Medieval ArchitectureAt the bottom of the stairs, notice the pink limestone pavement, part of the surviving medieval town. The arches built over doorways indicate that the buildings date from the 12th through the 14th century, when Assisi was booming. Italian cities such as Assisi—thriving on the north-south trade between northern Europe and Rome—were in the process of inventing free-market capitalism, dabbling in democratic self-rule, and creating the modern urban lifestyle. The vaults you see that turn lanes into tunnels are reminders of medieval urban expansion—creating more living space (mostly 15th century). While the population grew, people wanted to live within the town’s protective walls. Medieval Assisi had several times the population density of modern Assisi.
Notice the blooming balconies; Assisi holds a flower competition each June.
• From the bottom of the stairs, head to the left and continue downhill. When you arrive at a street, turn left, going slightly uphill for a long block, then take the low road (right) at the Y, and head down Via Sermei. Continue ahead, following the S. Chiara sign downhill to the big church. Cross the street and walk under the three massive buttresses to Piazza Santa Chiara and the front of the church.
Basilica of St. Clare (Basilica di Santa Chiara)Dedicated to the founder of the Order of the Poor Clares, this Umbrian Gothic church is simple, in keeping with the nuns’ dedication to a life of contemplation. In Clare’s lifetime, the order was located in the humble Church of San Damiano, in the valley below, but after Clare’s death, they needed a bigger and more glorious building. The church was built in 1265, and the huge buttresses were added in the next century.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 6:30-12:00 & 14:00-19:00, until 18:00 in winter.
Visiting the Basilica: The interior’s fine frescoes were whitewashed in Baroque times. The battered remains of one on the left shows how the fresco surface was hacked up so whitewash would stick. Imagine all the pristine frescoes hiding behind the whitewash (here and all over Europe).
The Chapel of the Crucifix of San Damiano, on the right, has the wooden crucifix that changed Francis’ life. In 1206, an emaciated, soul-searching, stark-raving Francis knelt before this crucifix (then located in the Church of San Damiano) and asked for guidance. The crucifix spoke: “Go and rebuild my Church, which you can see has fallen into ruin.” Francis followed the call.
The 18-year-old rich girl of Assisi fell in love with Francis’ message, and made secret arrangements to meet him. The night of Palm Sunday, 1212, she slipped out of her father’s mansion in town and escaped to the valley below. A procession of friars with torches met her and took her to (what is today) St. Mary of the Angels Basilica. There, Francis cut her hair, clothed her in a simple brown tunic, and welcomed her into a life of voluntary poverty. Clare’s father begged, ordered, and physically threatened her to return, but she would not budge.
Clare was joined by other women who banded together as the Poor Clares. She spent the next 40 years of her life within the confines of the convent of San Damiano: barefoot, vegetarian, and largely silent. Her regimen of prayer, meditation, and simple manual labor—especially knitting—impressed commoners and popes, leading to her canonization almost immediately after her death. St. Clare is often depicted carrying a monstrance (a little temple holding the Eucharist wafer).
Stairs lead from the nave down to the tomb of St. Clare. Her tomb is at the far end (the image is wax; her bones lie underneath). As you circulate with the crowd of pilgrims, notice the paintings on the walls depicting spiritual lessons from Clare’s life and death. At the opposite end of the crypt (back between the stairs, in a large glassed-in area) are important relics: the saint’s robes, hair (in a silver box), and an enormous tunic she made—along with relics of St. Francis (including a blood-stained stocking he wore after receiving the stigmata). The attached cloistered community of the Poor Clares has flourished for 700 years.
• Leave the church and belly up to the viewpoint at the edge of the square for...
Another Umbrian View: On the left is the convent of St. Clare (global headquarters of all the Poor Clares). Below you lies the olive grove of the Poor Clares, which has been there since the 13th century. In the distance is a grand Umbrian view. Assisi overlooks the richest and biggest valley in otherwise hilly and mountainous Umbria. The municipality of Assisi has a population of 25,000, but only 3,500 people live in the old town. The lower town, called Santa Maria degli Angeli, grew up with the coming of the railway in the 19th century. In the haze, the blue-domed church is St. Mary of the Angels (described later), the cradle of the Franciscan order. A popular pilgrimage site today, it marks the place where St. Francis lived and worked.
Spanish-speaking Franciscans settled in California. Three of their missions grew into major cities: Los Angeles (named after this church), San Francisco (named after St. Francis), and Santa Clara (named after St. Clare).
• From the church square, step out into Via Santa Chiara.
Arches and ArtisansNotice the three medieval town gates (two behind the church, and one uphill toward the town center). The gate over the road behind the church dates from 1265. (Farther on, you can just see the crenellations of the 1316 Porta Nuova, which marks the final medieval expansion of Assisi.) Toward the city center (on Via Santa Chiara, the high road), an arch marks the site of the Roman wall. These three gates represent the town’s three walls, illustrating how much the city has grown since ancient times.
Walk uphill along Via Santa Chiara (which becomes Corso Mazzini) to the city’s main square. The street is lined with interesting shops selling traditional embroidery, religious souvenirs, and gifty local edibles. The shops on Corso Mazzini, on the stretch between the gate and the Piazza del Comune, show off many local crafts. As you browse, watch for the following shops: Galleria d’Arte Perna (on the left, #20) sells the medieval fantasy townscapes of Paolo Grimaldi, a local painter who runs this shop with his brother, Alessandro. A helpful travel agency is across the street and a few steps up (at #31, Agenzia Viaggi Stoppini; see “Helpful Hints,” earlier).
Next, the aptly named Assisi Olive Wood (on the left at #14E) sells olive-wood carvings, as does d’Olivo, across the street at #23. It’s said that St. Francis made the first Nativity scene to help humanize and, therefore, teach the Christmas message. That’s why you’ll see so many crèches in Assisi. (Even today, nearby villages are enthusiastic about their “living” manger scenes, and Italians everywhere enjoy setting up elaborate crèches in churches for Christmas.) Further along at #14A is a bakery, Bar Sensi, selling the traditional raisin-and-apple strudel called rocciata (roh-CHAH-tah, €3.50 each). Farther along on the left (at #2) is Il Duomo, selling religious art, manger scenes, and crucifixion figurines. Across the street, on the right, is Centro Ricami, a respected embroidery shop. And on the square (at #34, opposite the flags), the recommended La Bottega dei Sapori is worth a visit for edible and drinkable souvenirs.
You’ve walked up what was, in ancient times, the main drag into town. Ahead of you, the six fluted Corinthian columns of the Temple of Minerva marked the forum (today’s Piazza del Comune). Sit at the fountain on the piazza for a few minutes of people-watching—don’t you just love Italy? Within a few hundred yards of this square, on either side, were the medieval walls. Imagine the commotion of 5,000 people confined within these walls. No wonder St. Francis needed an escape for some peace and quiet.
• Now, head over to the temple on the square.
Temple of Minerva/Christian ChurchAssisi has always been a spiritual center. The Romans went to great lengths to make this first-century B.C. Temple of Minerva a centerpiece of their city. Notice the columns that cut into the stairway. It was a tight fit here on the hilltop. In ancient times, the stairs went down—about twice as far as they do now—to the main drag, which has gradually been filled in over time. The Church of Santa Maria sopra (“over”) Minerva was added in the ninth century. The bell tower is from the 13th century.
Pop inside the temple/church. Today’s interior is 17th-century Baroque. Walk to the front. Flanking the altar are the original Roman temple floor stones. You can even see the drains for the bloody sacrifices that took place here. Behind the statues of Peter and Paul, the original Roman embankment peeks through.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:15-19:30, in winter closes at sunset and midday.
• Across the square at #11, step into the 16th-century frescoed vaults of the...
Old Market: Notice the Italian flair for design. Even this smelly market was once finely decorated. The art style is called “Grotesque,” named for the Renaissance-era discovery of Roman paintings, featuring bizarre creatures, on the walls of Nero’s Golden House in Rome (the lower levels, still largely unexcavated, appeared cave-like: grotto-esque). This scene was indisputably painted after 1492. How do they know? Because it features turkeys—first seen in Europe after Columbus returned from the Americas with his bag of exotic souvenirs. The turkeys painted here may have been that bird’s European debut.
• From the main square, hike past the temple up the high road, Via San Paolo. After 200 yards (across from #24), a sign directs you down a stepped lane to the...
Church of Santo Stefano (Chiesa di Santo Stefano)Surrounded by cypress, fig, and walnut trees, Santo Stefano—which used to be outside the town walls in the days of St. Francis—is a delightful bit of offbeat Assisi. Legend has it that Santo Stefano’s bells miraculously rang on October 3, 1226, the day St. Francis died. Step inside. This is the typical rural Italian Romanesque church—no architect, just built by simple stonemasons who put together the most basic design. Hundreds of years later, it still stands.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 8:30-20:00, shorter hours off-season.
• The lane zigzags down to Via San Francesco. Turn right and walk under the arch toward the Basilica of St. Francis.
Via San FrancescoThis main drag leads from the town to the basilica holding the body of St. Francis. Francis was a big deal even in his own day. He was made a saint in 1228—the same year that the basilica’s foundations were laid—and his body was moved here by 1230. Assisi was a big-time pilgrimage center, and this street was its booming hub. The arch marks the end of what was Assisi in St. Francis’ day. Notice the fine medieval balcony immediately past the arch. About 30 yards farther down (on the left), cool yourself at the fountain, as medieval pilgrims might have. The hospice next door was built in 1237 to house pilgrims. Notice the three surviving faces of its fresco: Jesus, Francis, and Clare. Farther down, across from #12A (on the left), is the Oratorio dei Pellegrini, dating from the 1450s. A brotherhood ran a hostel here for travelers passing through to pay homage to St. Francis. The chapel offers a richly frescoed space in which to contemplate the saint’s message.
• Continuing on, you’ll eventually reach Assisi’s main sight, the Basilica of St. Francis. For the start of my self-guided tour, walk downhill to the basilica’s lower courtyard.
The Basilica of St. Francis (Basilica di San Francesco), worth ▲▲▲, is one of the artistic and religious highlights of Europe. It rises where, in 1226, St. Francis was buried (with the outcasts he had stood by) outside of his town on the “Hill of the Damned”—now called the “Hill of Paradise.” The basilica is frescoed from top to bottom with scenes by the leading artists of the day: Cimabue, Giotto, Simone Martini, and Pietro Lorenzetti. A 13th-century historian wrote, “No more exquisite monument to the Lord has been built.”
From a distance, you see the huge arcades “supporting” the basilica. These were 15th-century quarters for the monks. The arcades that line the square and lead to the church housed medieval pilgrims.
Cost and Hours: Free entry; lower basilica daily 6:00-18:45, until 17:45 in Nov-March; reliquary chapel in lower basilica generally open Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, often closed Sat-Sun and occasionally at other times for religious services; upper basilica daily 8:30-18:45, until 17:45 in Nov-March. Modest dress is required to enter the church—no above-the-knee skirts or shorts and no sleeveless tops for men, women, or children.
Information: The church courtyard at the entrance of the lower basilica has an info office, often staffed by native English-speaking friars (April-Oct Mon-Sat 9:15-17:30, Nov-March Mon-Sat 9:15-12:00 & 14:15-17:30, closed Sun year-round, tel. 075-819-0084, www.sanfrancescoassisi.org). Call or check the website to find out about upcoming concerts at the basilica.
Tours: Audioguides (boring and old-school) are available at the kiosk located outside the entrance of the lower basilica (€6 donation requested, €7/2 people, 45 minutes). You can download a free Rick Steves audio version of this chapter’s basilica tour (see here). Hour-long guided tours in English are offered daily except Sunday (€10 donation requested, call or email to reserve, tel. 075-819-0084, www.sanfrancescoassisi.org, assisisanfrancesco@libero.it).
Bookstore: The church bookshop is in the inner courtyard behind the upper and lower basilica. It sells an excellent guidebook, The Basilica of Saint Francis: A Spiritual Pilgrimage (€3, by Goulet, McInally, and Wood; I used this book, and a tour with Brother Michael, as sources for this self-guided tour).
Services: Go before you enter, as there aren’t any WCs inside. There are two different pay WCs within a half-block of the lower entrance—up the road in a squat building, and halfway down the big piazza on the left.
Attending Mass: To worship in the basilica, consider joining the Franciscan brothers for Mass (in Italiano) in the lower basilica (usually April-Oct at 7:15, 9:00, 11:00, and 18:00; Nov-March at 7:15, 11:00, and 17:00) or experience a Mass sung by the basilica choir many Sundays at 10:30. On Sundays in summer (Easter-Oct), there’s an English Mass in the lower basilica at 9:00. Additional English and sung Masses don’t follow a set schedule. Call the basilica to find out when English-speaking pilgrimage groups or choirs have reserved Masses, and attend with them—although groups change their plans fairly often (tel. 075-819-0084).
The Basilica of St. Francis, a theological work of genius, can be difficult for the 21st-century tourist/pilgrim to appreciate.
Since the basilica is the reason that most people visit Assisi, and the message of St. Francis has even the least devout sightseers blessing the town Vespas, I’ve designed this self-guided tour with an emphasis on the place’s theology (rather than art history).
A disclaimer before we start: Just as Francis used many biblical legends to help teach the Christian message, legends from the life of Francis were told in later ages to teach the same message. Are they true? In general, probably not. Are they in keeping with Francis’ message? Yes. Do I share legends here as if they are historic? Sure.
The church has three parts: the upper basilica, the lower basilica, and the saint’s tomb (below the lower basilica). To get oriented, stand at the lower entrance in the courtyard. While empty today, centuries ago this main plaza was cluttered with pilgrim services and the medieval equivalent of souvenir shops. Opposite the entry to the lower basilica is the information center.
(See “Basilica of St. Francis—Lower Level” map, here.)
Enter through the grand doorway of the lower basilica. Just inside, decorating the top of the first arch, look up and see St. Francis, who greets you with a Latin inscription. Sounding a bit like John Wayne, he says the equivalent of, “Slow down and be joyful, pilgrim. You’ve reached the Hill of Paradise. And, if you’re observant and thoughtful, this church will knock your spiritual socks off.”
• Start with the tomb. To get there, turn left into the nave. Midway down, follow the signs and go right, to the tomb downstairs.
The saint’s remains are above the altar in the stone box with the iron ties. In medieval times, pilgrims came to Assisi because St. Francis was buried here. Holy relics were the “ruby slippers” of medieval Europe. Relics gave you power—they answered your prayers and won your wars—and ultimately helped you get back to your eternal Kansas. Assisi made no bones about promoting the saint’s relics, but hid his tomb for obvious reasons of security. His body was buried secretly while the basilica was under construction, and over the next 600 years, the exact location was forgotten. When the tomb was to be opened to the public in 1818, it took more than a month to find his actual remains.
Francis’ message caused a stir. Not only did he follow Christ’s teachings, he followed Christ’s lifestyle, living as a poor, wandering preacher. He traded a life of power and riches for one of obedience, poverty, and chastity. He was never ordained as a priest, but his influence on Christianity was monumental.
The Franciscan realm (Brother Sun, Sister Moon, and so on) is a space where God, man, and the natural world frolic harmoniously. Francis treated every creature—animal, peasant, pope—with equal respect. He and his “brothers” (fratelli, or friars) slept in fields, begged for food, and exuded the joy of non-materialism. Franciscan friars were known as the “Jugglers of God,” modeling themselves on French troubadours (jongleurs, or jugglers) who roved the countryside singing, telling stories, and cracking jokes.
In an Italy torn by conflict between towns and families, Francis promoted peace and the restoration of order. (He set an example by reconstructing the crumbled San Damiano chapel.) While the Church was waging bloody Crusades, Francis pushed ecumenism and understanding. And the Franciscan message had an impact. In 1288, just 62 years after Francis died, a Franciscan became pope (Nicholas IV). Francis’ message also led to Church reforms that many believe delayed the Protestant Reformation by a century.
This richly decorated basilica seems to contradict the teachings of the poor monk it honors, but it was built as an act of religious and civic pride to remember the hometown saint. It was also designed—and still functions—as a pilgrimage center and a splendid classroom. Though monks in robes may not give off an “easy-to-approach” vibe, the Franciscans of today are still God’s jugglers (and many of them speak English).
Here is Francis’ message, in his own words:
Good Lord, all your creations bring praise to you!
Praise for Brother Sun, who brings the day. His radiance reminds us of you!
Praise for Sister Moon and the stars, precious and beautiful.
Praise for Brother Wind, and for clouds and storms and rain that sustain us.
Praise for Sister Water. She is useful and humble, precious and pure.
Praise for Brother Fire who cheers us at night.
Praise for our sister, Mother Earth, who feeds us and rules us.
Praise for all those who forgive because you have forgiven them.
Praise for our sister, Bodily Death, from whose embrace none can escape.
Praise and bless the Lord, and give thanks, and, with humility, serve him.
Francis’ four closest friends and first followers are memorialized in the corners of the room. Opposite the altar, up four steps between the entrance and exit, notice the small copper box behind the metal grill. This contains the remains of Francis’ rich Roman patron, Jacopa dei Settesoli. She traveled to see him on his deathbed but was turned away because she was female. Francis waived the rule and welcomed “Brother Jacopa” to his side. These five tombs—in the Franciscan spirit of being with your friends—were added in the 19th century.
The candles you see are the only real candles in the church (others are electric). Pilgrims pay a coin, pick up a candle, and place it in the small box on the side. Franciscans will light it later.
• Climb back up to the lower nave.
Appropriately Franciscan—subdued and Romanesque—this nave is frescoed with parallel scenes from the lives of Christ (right) and Francis (left), connected by a ceiling of stars. The Passion of Christ and the Compassion of Francis lead to the altar built over Francis’ tomb. After the church was built and decorated, side chapels were erected to provide mausoleums for the rich families that patronized the work of the order. Unfortunately, in the process, huge arches were cut out of some frescoed scenes, but others survive. In the fresco directly above the entry to the tomb, Christ is being taken down from the cross (just the bottom half of his body can be seen, on the left), and it looks like the story is over. Defeat. But in the opposite fresco (above the tomb’s exit), we see Francis preaching to the birds, reminding the faithful that the message of the Gospel survives.
These stories directed the attention of the medieval pilgrim to the altar, where he could meet God through the sacraments. The church was thought of as a community of believers sailing toward God. The prayers coming out of the nave (navis, or ship) fill the triangular sections of the ceiling—called vele, or sails—with spiritual wind. With a priest for a navigator and the altar for a helm, faith propels the ship.
Stand behind the altar (toes to the bottom step, facing the entrance) and look up. The three scenes above you represent the creed of the Franciscans: Directly above the tomb of St. Francis, to the right, Obedience (Francis appears twice, wearing a rope harness and kneeling in front of Lady Obedience); to the left, Chastity (in her tower of purity held up by two angels); and straight ahead, Poverty. Here Jesus blesses the marriage as Francis slips a ring on Lady Poverty. In the foreground, two “self-sufficient” yet pint-size merchants (the new rich of a thriving northern Italy) are throwing sticks and stones at the bride. But Poverty, in her patched wedding dress, is fertile and strong, and even bare brambles blossom into a rosebush crown.
The three knots in the rope that ties the Franciscan robe symbolize the monks’ vows of obedience, chastity, and poverty. St. Francis called money the “devil’s dung.” The jeweled belt of a rich person was all about material wealth. A bag of coins hung from it, as did a weapon to protect that person’s wealth. Franciscans instead bound their tunics with a simple rope, its three knots a constant reminder of their vows.
Now put your heels to the altar and—bending back like a drum major—look up for a peek at the reward for a life of obedience, chastity, and poverty: Francis on a heavenly throne in a rich, golden robe. He traded a life of earthly simplicity for glory in heaven.
• Turn to the right and march to the corner, where steps lead down into the...
This chapel is filled with fascinating relics (which a €0.50 flier explains in detailed English; often closed Sat-Sun). Step in and circle the room clockwise. You’ll see the silver chalice and plate that Francis used for the bread and wine of the Eucharist (in a small, dark, windowed case set into wall, marked Calice e Patena). Francis believed that his personal possessions should be simple, but the items used for worship should be made of the finest materials. Next, the Veli di Lino is a cloth Jacopa wiped her friend’s brow with on his deathbed. In the corner display case is a small section of the itchy haircloth (cilizio)—not sheep’s wool, but cloth made from scratchy horse or goat hair—worn by Francis as penance (the cloth he chose was the opposite of the fine fabric his father sold). In the next corner are the tunic and slippers that Francis donned during his last days. Next, find a prayer (in a fancy silver stand) that St. Francis wrote for Brother Leo and signed with a T-shaped character—his tau cross. The last letter in the Hebrew alphabet, tav (“tau” in Greek) is symbolic of faithfulness to the end, and Francis adopted it for his signature. Next is a papal document (1223) legitimizing the Franciscan order and assuring his followers that they were not risking a (deadly) heresy charge. Finally, just past the altar, see the tunic that was lovingly patched and stitched by followers of the five-foot, four-inch-tall St. Francis.
Before leaving the chapel, notice the modern paintings done recently by local artists. Over the entrance, Francis is shown being born in a stable like Jesus (by Capitini). Scenes from the life of Clare and Padre Pio (a Capuchin priest, very popular in Italy, who was sainted in 2002) were painted by Stefanelli and Antonio.
• Return up the stairs, stepping into the...
The decoration of this church brought together the greatest Sienese (Lorenzetti and Simone Martini) and Florentine (Cimabue and Giotto) artists of the day. Look around at the painted scenes. In 1300, this was radical art—believable homespun scenes, landscapes, trees, real people. Directly opposite the reliquary chapel, study Giotto’s painting of the Crucifixion, with the eight sparrow-like angels. For the first time, holy people are expressing emotion: One angel turns her head sadly at the sight of Jesus, and another scratches her hands down her cheeks, drawing blood. Mary (lower left), previously in control, has fainted in despair. The Franciscans, with their goal of bringing God to the people, found a natural partner in Europe’s first naturalist (and therefore modern) painter, Giotto.
To grasp Giotto’s artistic leap, compare his work with the painting to the right, by Cimabue. It’s Gothic, without the 3-D architecture, natural backdrop, and slice-of-life reality of Giotto’s work. Cimabue’s St. Francis (far right) shows the saint with the stigmata—Christ’s marks of the Crucifixion. Contemporaries described Francis as being short, with a graceful build, dark hair, and sparse beard. (This is considered the most accurate portrait of Francis—done according to the description of one who knew him.) The sunroof haircut (tonsure) was standard for monks of the day. According to legend, the brown robe and rope belt were inventions of necessity. When Francis stripped naked and ran away from Assisi, he grabbed the first clothes he could, a rough wool peasant’s tunic and a piece of rope, which became the uniform of the Franciscan order. To the left, at eye level under the sparrow-like angels, are paintings of saints and their exquisite halos (by Simone Martini or his school). To the right of the door at the same level, see five of Francis’ closest followers—clearly just simple folk.
Francis’ friend, “Sister Bodily Death,” was really not all that terrible. In fact, Francis would like to introduce you to her now (above and to the right of the door leading into the reliquary chapel). Go ahead, block the light from the door with this book and meet her. Before his death, Francis added a line to The Canticle of the Sun: “Praise for our sister, Bodily Death, from whose embrace none can escape.”
• Now cross the transept to the other side of the altar (enjoying some of the oldest surviving bits of the inlaid local-limestone flooring—c. 13th century), and find the staircase going up. Immediately above the stairs is Pietro Lorenzetti’s Francis Receiving the Stigmata. (Francis is considered the first person ever to earn the marks of the cross through his great faith and love of the Church.) Make your way up the stairs to the...
The courtyard overlooks the 15th-century cloister, the heart of this monastic complex. Pope Sixtus IV (of Sistine Chapel fame) had it built as a secure retreat for himself. Balanced and peaceful by design, the courtyard also functioned as a cistern to collect rainwater, supplying enough for 200 monks (today, there are about 40). The Franciscan order emphasizes teaching. This place functioned as a kind of theological center of higher learning, which rotated monks in for a six-month stint, then sent them back home more prepared and better inspired to preach effectively. That explains the complex narrative of the frescoes wallpapering the walls and halls here.
The treasury (Museo del Tesoro) to the left of the bookstore features ornately decorated chalices, reliquaries, vestments, and altarpieces (free but donation requested, April-Oct Mon-Sat 10:30-13:00 & 14:00-17:30, Sun 10:00-17:30, closed Nov-March).
• From the courtyard, climb the stairs (next to the bookshop) to the...
(See “Basilica of St. Francis—Upper Level” map, here.)
Built later than its counterpart below, the brighter upper basilica is considered the first Gothic church in Italy (started in 1228). You’ve followed the intended pilgrims’ route, entering the lower church and finishing here. Notice how the pulpit (embedded in the corner pillar) can be seen and heard from every spot in the packed church. The spirit of the order was to fill the church and preach. See also the design in the round window in the west end (high above the entry). The tiny centerpiece reads “IHS” (the first three letters of Jesus’ name in Greek). And, as you can see, this trippy kaleidoscope seems to declare that all light radiates from Jesus.
The windows here are treasures from the 13th and 14th centuries. Those behind the apse are among the oldest and most precious in Italy. Imagine illiterate medieval peasants entranced by these windows, so full of meaning that they were nicknamed “Bibles of the Poor.” But for art lovers, the basilica’s draw is that Giotto and his assistants practically wallpapered it circa 1297-1300. Or perhaps the job was subcontracted to other artists—scholars debate it (for more on Giotto, see here). Whatever the case, the anatomy, architectural depth, and drama of these frescoes helped to kick off the Renaissance. The gallery of frescoes shows 28 scenes from the life of St. Francis. The events are a mix of documented history and folk legend.
• Working clockwise, start on the north wall (to the left, if you just climbed the stairs from the bookstore) and follow along with the help of the numbered map key. The subtitles in the black strip below the frescoes describe each scene in clear Latin—and affirm my interpretation.
A common man spreads his cape before Francis in front of the Temple of Minerva on Piazza del Comune. Before his conversion, young Francis was the model of Assisian manhood—handsome, intelligent, and well-dressed, befitting the son of a wealthy cloth dealer. Above all, he was liked by everyone, a natural charmer who led his fellow teens in nights of wine, women, and song. Medieval pilgrims understood the deeper meaning of this scene: The “eye” of God (symbolized by the rose window in the Temple of Minerva) looks over the young Francis, a dandy “imprisoned” in his own selfishness (the Temple—with barred windows—was once a prison).
Francis offers his cape to a needy stranger. Francis was always generous of spirit. He became more so after being captured in battle and held for a year as a prisoner of war, then suffering from illness. Charity was a Franciscan forte.
Francis is visited by the Lord in a dream. Still unsure of his calling, Francis rode off to the Crusades. One night, he dreams of a palace filled with armor marked with crosses. Christ tells him to leave the army—to become what you might consider the first “conscientious objector”—and go home to wait for a non-military assignment in a new kind of knighthood. He returned to Assisi and, though reviled as a coward, would end up fighting for spiritual wealth, not earthly power and riches.
Francis prays to the crucifix in the Church of San Damiano. After months of living in a cave, fasting, and meditating, Francis kneels in the run-down church and prays. The crucifix speaks, telling him: “Go and rebuild my Church, which you can see has fallen into ruin.” Francis hurried home and sold his father’s cloth to pay for God’s work. His furious father dragged him before the bishop.
Francis relinquishes his possessions. In front of the bishop and the whole town, Francis strips naked and gives his dad his clothes, credit cards, and time-share on Capri. Francis raises his hand and says, “Until now, I called you father. From now on, my only father is my Father in Heaven.” Notice God’s hand blessing the action from above. Francis then ran off into the hills, naked and singing. In this version, Francis is covered by the bishop, symbolizing his transition from a man of the world to a man of the Church. Notice the disbelief and concern on the bishop’s advisors’ faces; subtle expressions like these wouldn’t have made it into other medieval frescoes of the day.
The pope has a dream. Francis headed to Rome, seeking the pope’s blessing on his fledgling movement. Initially rebuffing Francis, the pope then dreams of a simple, barefooted man propping up his teetering Church, and then...
The pope confirms the Franciscan order, handing Francis and his gang the document now displayed in the reliquary chapel.
Francis’ life was peppered with visions and miracles, shown in three panels in a row: vision of the flaming chariot, vision of thrones, and 
exorcism of demons in Arezzo.
• Next see...
St. Francis before the sultan. Francis’ wandering ministry took him to Egypt during the Crusades (1219). He walked unarmed into the Muslim army camp. They captured him, but the sultan was impressed with Francis’ manner and let him go, reportedly whispering, “I’d convert to your faith, but they’d kill us both.” Here the sultan gestures from his throne.
Ecstasy of St. Francis. This oft-painted scene shows the mystic communing with Christ.
The crèche at Greccio. A creative teacher, Francis invents the tradition of manger scenes.
• Around the corner, see the...
Miracle of the spring. Shown here getting water out of a rock to quench a stranger’s thirst, Francis felt closest to God when in the hills around Assisi, seeing the Creator in the creation.
• Cross over to the far side of the entrance door.
Sermon to the birds. In his best-known miracle, Francis is surrounded by birds as they listen to him teach. Francis embraces all levels of creation. One interpretation of this scene is that the birds, which are of different species, represent the diverse flock of humanity and nature, all created and beloved by God and worthy of one another’s love.
This image of well-fed birds is an appropriate one to take with you. It’s designed to remind pilgrims that, like the birds, God gave us life, plenty of food, feathers, wings, and a world to fly around in. Francis, patron saint of the environment and animals, taught his followers to count their blessings. A monk here reminded me that even a student backpacker today eats as well as the wealthiest nobleman in the days of Francis.
• Continue to the south wall for the rest of the panels.
Despite the hierarchical society of his day, Francis was welcomed by all classes, shown in these three panels: 
the knight of Celano invites Francis to his deathbed; 
preaching for Pope Honorius III, who listens intently; and 
the apparition at Arles, which illustrates how Francis could be in two places at once (something only Jesus and saints can pull off). The proponents of Francis, who believed he was destined for sainthood, show him performing the necessary miracles.
Francis receives the stigmata. It’s September 17, 1224, and Francis is fasting and praying on nearby Mount Alverna when a six-winged angel (called a seraph) appears with holy laser-like powers to burn in the marks of the Crucifixion, the stigmata. For the strength of his faith, Francis is given the marks of his master, the “battle scars of love.” These five wounds suffered by Christ (nails in palms and feet, lance in side) marked Francis’ body for the rest of his life.
The next panels deal with 
Francis’ death, funeral, and canonization. The last panels show 
miracles associated with the saint after his death, proving that he’s in heaven and bolstering his eligibility for sainthood.
Francis died thanking God and singing his Canticle of the Sun. Just as he referred to the sun as his brother and the moon as his sister, Francis called his body “brother.” On his deathbed he conceded, “Maybe I was a bit tough on brother ass.” Ravaged by an asceticism extreme enough to earn him both the stigmata and tuberculosis, Francis died in 1226.
Before leaving through the front entrance, look up at the ceiling and the walls near the rose window to see 
large tan patches. In 1997, when a 5.5-magnitude quake hit Assisi, it shattered the upper basilica’s frescoes into 300,000 fragments. Shortly after the quake, an aftershock shook the ceiling frescoes down, killing two monks and two art scholars standing here. Later, the fragments were meticulously picked up and pieced back together.
Outside, on the lawn, the Latin word pax (peace) and the Franciscan tau cross are sculpted from shrubbery. For a drink or snack, the Bar San Francesco (facing the upper basilica) is handy. For pax, take the high lane back to town, up to the castle, or into the countryside.
For a look at Assisi’s Roman roots, tour the Roman Forum, which is underneath Piazza del Comune. The floor plan is clearly explained in English, as are the surviving odd bits and obscure pieces. During your visit, you’ll walk on an ancient Roman road.
Cost and Hours: €4, included in €8 combo-ticket that also covers next two sights, daily March-Oct 10:00-13:00 & 14:30-18:00—until 19:00 in June-Aug, Nov-Feb 10:30-13:00 & 14:00-17:00; from Piazza del Comune, go a half-block down Via Portica—it’s on your right; tel. 075-815-5077.
This small, unexciting museum attractively displays its 13th- to 17th-century art (mainly frescoes), with general English information in nearly every room. There’s a damaged Giotto Madonna and a rare secular fresco (to the right of the Giotto art), but it’s mainly a peaceful walk through a pastel world—best for art lovers.
Cost and Hours: €3, included in €8 combo-ticket, same hours as Roman Forum, Via San Francesco, across from #13C—look for banner above entryway, on main drag between Piazza del Comune and Basilica of St. Francis, tel. 075-815-5234.
the “big castle” offers a good look at a 14th-century fortification and a fine view of Assisi and the Umbrian countryside. If you’re pinching your euros, skip it—the view is just as good from outside the castle. There’s talk of restoring some rooms in their original medieval style, possibly in time for your visit.
Cost and Hours: €5, included in €8 combo-ticket, daily from 10:00 until an hour before sunset—about 19:15 in summer, tel. 075-815-5077.
Located on the slope steeply below the Basilica of St. Clare, this church and convent was where Francis received his call and where Clare spent her days as mother superior of the Poor Clares. Today, there’s not much to see, but it’s a relatively peaceful escape from touristy Assisi. Drivers can zip right there (watch for the turnoff on the road up to Piazza Matteotti), while walkers descend pleasantly from Assisi for 15 minutes through an olive grove.
In 1206, Francis was inside the church when he heard the wooden crucifix order him to rebuild the church. (The crucifix in San Damiano is a copy; the original is now displayed in the Basilica of St. Clare.) Francis initially interpreted these miraculous words as a call to rebuild crumbling San Damiano. He sold his father’s cloth for money to fix the church. (The church we see today, however, was rebuilt later by others.) Eventually, Francis realized his charge was to revitalize the Christian Church at large.
As he approached the end of his life, Francis came to San Damiano to visit his old friend Clare. She set him up in a simple reed hut in the olive grove, where he was inspired to write his poem The Canticle of the Sun (see here).
Cost and Hours: Free, daily, convent open 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closes at 17:00 in winter, church opens at 6:15, start walking from the Porta Nuova parking lot at the south end of Assisi and follow the signs, tel. 075-812-273, www.assisiofm.it.
For a picnic with the same birdsong and views that inspired St. Francis, leave the tourists behind and hike to the Rocca Minore (small private castle, not tourable) above Piazza Matteotti.
This modern part of Assisi sits in the flat valley below the hill town (see “Assisi Area” map, earlier). Whether you’re arriving by car or by train, it’s practical to visit these sights on the way into or out of Assisi (they’re an easy walk from the train station—which has baggage storage—and there’s ample, well-marked parking).
This huge basilica, towering above the buildings below Assisi, marks the spot where Francis lived, worked, and died. It’s a grandiose church built around a humble chapel—reflecting the monumental impact of this simple saint on his town and the world.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 6:15-12:50 & 14:30-19:30, Sun 6:45-12:50 & 14:30-19:30, tel. 075-805-11. A little TI kiosk is across the street from the souvenir stands (generally daily 10:00-13:00 & 15:30-18:30 but hours a bit erratic, tel. 075-804-4554). As you face the church, the best WC is on your right (€0.50).
Getting There: From Assisi’s train station, it’s a five-minute walk to the basilica (exit station left, after 50 yards take the underground pedestrian walkway—sottopassaggio—on your left, then walk straight ahead, passing several handy eateries).
From the old town, you can reach the basilica on the same orange bus (line #C) that runs down to the train station (stay on one more stop to reach the basilica). In the opposite direction, buses from the basilica up to the old town run twice hourly, usually at :14 and :44 after the hour. Leaving the church, the stop is on your right, by the side of the building. For information on tickets, see “Getting Around Assisi,” earlier.
Visiting the Basilica: This grand church was built in the 16th century around the tiny but historic Porziuncola Chapel (now directly under the dome), after the chapel became too small to accommodate the many pilgrims wanting to pay homage to St. Francis. Some local monks had given Francis this porziuncola, or “small portion,” after his conversion—a little land with a fixer-upper chapel. Francis lived here after he founded the Franciscan Order, and this was where he consecrated St. Clare as a Bride of Christ. What would humble Francis think of the huge church—Christianity’s 10th largest—built over his tiny chapel?
Behind the Porziuncola Chapel on the right, find the Cappella del Transito, which marks the site of Francis’ death on October 3, 1226. Francis died as he’d lived—simply, in a small hut located here. On his last night on earth, he invited some friars to join him in a Last Supper-style breaking of bread. Then he undressed, lay down on the bare ground, and began to recite Psalm 141: “Lord, I cry unto thee.” He spoke the last line, “Let the wicked fall into their own traps, while I escape”...and he passed on.
From the right transept, follow Roseto signs to the rose garden. You’ll walk down a passage with gardens on either side (viewable through the windows)—on the left, a tranquil park with a statue of Francis petting a sheep, and on the right, the rose garden. Francis, fighting a temptation that he never named, once threw himself onto the roses. As the story goes, the thorns immediately dropped off. Thornless roses have grown here ever since.
Exiting the passage, turn right to find the Rose Chapel (Cappella delle Rose), built over the place where Francis lived.
In the autumn, a room in the next hallway displays a giant animated Nativity scene (a reminder to pilgrims that Francis first established the tradition of manger scenes as a teaching aid). You’ll pass a room with a free 10-minute video about the church (ask for English, daily 10:00-12:30 & 16:00-18:00). The bookshop has some works in English and an “old pharmacy” selling herbal cures.
Continuing on, you’ll pass the Porziuncola Museum, featuring early depictions of St. Francis by 13th-century artists, a model of Assisi during Francis’ lifetime, and religious art and objects from the basilica. On the museum’s upper floor are some monks’ cells, which provide intriguing insight into the spartan lifestyles of the pious and tonsured (€4 to see both floors, ask for English brochure, museum open April-Oct Tue-Sun 9:30-12:30 & 15:30-19:00, Nov-March until 18:00, closed Mon, tel. 075-805-1419, www.porziuncola.org).
This small museum, housed in the arcaded building across the street from the basilica, features works by the contemporary Italian sculptor Pericle Fazzini. His works feature elongated, wildly distorted, and very expressive figures. The permanent collection, on the first floor, includes bronzes, wooden sculptures (including one of St. Francis), and the original bronze casting of The Risen Christ—a miniature of Fazzini’s famous bronze of Jesus rising from a nuclear-bomb crater, commissioned by the pope for the Sala Nervi audience hall of the Vatican. Biographical information on the sculptor is provided in English. Upstairs on the second floor are temporary exhibits.
Cost and Hours: €5, Tue-Sun 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:00, closed Mon, tel. 075-804-4586, www.museo.periclefazzini.it.
If you want to follow further in St. Francis’ footsteps, take a trip up the rugged slopes of nearby Mount Subasio to the humble hermitage where Francis and his followers retreated for solitude. Today the spot is marked by a 14th-century convent. The highlight is a look at the tiny, dank cave where Francis would retire for private prayer.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 8:30-18:30, until 17:30 in winter, last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 075-812-301.
Getting There: There is no public transportation; either drive, take a taxi, or hike. Starting from Assisi’s Porta Cappuccini gate, it’s a stiff 3-mile, 1.5-hour hike with an elevation gain of about 1,000 feet. You’ll walk along a narrow, switchbacked, paved road enjoying brisk air and sporadic views. A souvenir kiosk at the entrance sells drinks and sandwiches.
Assisi accommodates large numbers of pilgrims on religious holidays (see list on here). Finding a room at any other time should be easy. I’ve listed prices for spring (April-mid-June) and fall (mid-Aug-Oct). At most places, expect slightly lower rates in midsummer and winter.
Few hotels are air-conditioned. Locals suggest that you keep your windows closed through the middle of the day so that your room will be as cool as possible in the evening.
$$$ Hotel Umbra, a quiet villa in the middle of town, has 24 spacious but overpriced rooms with great views, thinning carpets, and older decor (Sb-€85, standard Db-€110, bigger “superior” Db with better views-€130, Tb-€165, 10 percent discount with this book in 2015 if you pay cash and stay for 2 or more nights, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, peaceful garden and view sun terrace, most rooms have views—request when you reserve, closed Dec-March, just off Piazza del Comune under the arch at Via degli Archi 6, tel. 075-812-240, www.hotelumbra.it, info@hotelumbra.it, family Laudenzi).
$$ Hotel Ideale, on a ridge overlooking the valley, offers 14 airy rooms with simple furnishings (most with views and balconies), a tranquil garden setting, and free parking (Sb without view-€50, nicer Sb-€65, Db-€85, Tb-€100, prices good with this book through 2015, 10 percent discount for stays of 3 or more nights, air-con, Wi-Fi, Piazza Matteotti 1, tel. 075-813-570, www.hotelideale.it, info@hotelideale.it, friendly sisters Lara and Ilaria and their monolingual family). The hotel is across the street from the bus stop (and parking lot) at Piazza Matteotti, at the top end of town.
$$ Hotel Belvedere, a great value, is a modern building with 12 spacious, classic-feeling rooms; eight come with sweeping views (Sb-€50, Db-€70, Tb-€90, Qb-€100, breakfast-€5, elevator, Wi-Fi, large communal view terrace, 2 blocks past Basilica of St. Clare at Via Borgo Aretino 13, tel. 075-812-460, www.assisihotelbelvedere.com, hotelbelvedereassisi@yahoo.it, thoughtful Enrico speaks fluent New Jerseyan). Coming by bus from the train station, get off at Porta Nuova; the hotel is steps away.
$$ Hotel Pallotta offers seven fresh, bright, small rooms and a shared top-floor lounge with view. Friendly and helpful, they provide guests with loads of extra niceties including a loaner Assisi guidebook, free use of washer and drying rack, and free hot drinks and cake at teatime (Sb-€45, Db-€79, Tb-€90, guest computer, Wi-Fi; a block off Piazza del Comune at Via San Rufino 6—to reach entrance, go up a short flight of stairs outside building, above the arch; tel. 075-812-307, www.pallottaassisi.it, pallotta@pallottaassisi.it; Stefano, Serena, and family). They also have a good restaurant (see “Eating in Assisi,” later).
$$ Hotel San Rufino offers a great locale, solid stone quality, and 11 comfortable rooms (Sb-€46, Db-€59, Tb-€79, Qb-€94, breakfast-€5, elevator, Wi-Fi; from Cathedral of San Rufino, follow sign to Via Porta Perlici 7; tel. 075-812-803, www.hotelsanrufino.it, info@hotelsanrufino.it).
$$ Albergo Il Duomo, Hotel San Rufino’s nine-room annex a block away, is tidy and tranquillo. Located on a stair-stepped lane, it’s more atmospheric and has nicer bathrooms than its parent hotel, but more steps and no elevator (Sb-€44, Db-€58, Tb-€70, breakfast-€5, Wi-Fi in lobby, Vicolo San Lorenzo 2 but check in at Hotel San Rufino—see earlier, tel. 075-812-742, www.hotelsanrufino.it, info@hotelsanrufino.it).
$$ Hotel La Rocca, on the peaceful top end of town, has 32 solid and modern rooms in a medieval shell (Sb-€48, Db-€61, Tb-€81, breakfast-€5, air-con, elevator, pay Wi-Fi, parking-€7, sunny rooftop terrace, decent restaurant upstairs, 3-minute walk from Piazza Matteotti at Via Porta Perlici 27, tel. 075-812-284, www.hotelarocca.it, info@hotelarocca.it, Carlo).
$$ Hotel Sole, renting 38 rooms in a 15th-century building, is well-worn and forgettable, but the location is central. Half of its rooms are in a newer annex across the street (Sb-€45, Db-€70, Tb-€85, ask for a discount, breakfast-€5, air-con, elevator in annex only, Wi-Fi, public parking nearby, 100 yards before Basilica of St. Clare at Corso Mazzini 35, tel. 075-812-373, www.assisihotelsole.com, info@assisihotelsole.com).
$ Camere Carli has six shiny, spacious, new rooms in a solid, minimalist place above an art gallery (Sb-€35, Db-€48, Tb-€60, Qb-€70, no breakfast, show this book to get these prices in 2015, family lofts, lots of stairs and no elevator, Wi-Fi, free parking 150 yards away, facing the Duomo at Via Porta Perlici 1, tel. 075-812-490, mobile 339-531-1366, www.camerecarli.it, carliarte@live.it, pleasant Franco speaks limited English).
$ Camere Annalisa Martini is a cheery home amid vines and roses in the town’s medieval core. This is a good budget choice—Annalisa enthusiastically accommodates her guests with a picnic garden, a washing machine (€7/small load, includes line drying), a communal refrigerator, and six homey rooms (S-€25, Sb-€27, D-€40, Db-€45, Tb-€58, Qb-€68, rates soft for last-minute bookings, cash only, 3 rooms share 2 bathrooms, no breakfast, Wi-Fi; one block from Piazza del Comune—go downhill toward basilica, turn left on Via San Gregorio to #6; tel. 075-813-536, www.cameremartiniassisi.it, cameremartini@libero.it, Mamma Rosignoli—“roh-sin-YOH-lee”—doesn’t speak English, but Annalisa does).
Hostel: Francis probably would have bunked with the peasants in Assisi’s 65-bed $ Ostello della Pace (€18 beds in 4- to 8-bed rooms, €21-26/person in private 2- to 4-person rooms with bath, dinner-€10.50, laundry service-€4, pay guest computer, Wi-Fi, free parking, lockout 10:00-16:00, midnight curfew, closed Nov-Feb; take orange shuttle bus from station to Piazza Giovanni Paolo II, then walk 15 minutes downhill on Via Marconi, then left at bend on Via di Valecchie to #4—see map on here; tel. 075-816-767, www.assisihostel.com, info@assisihostel.com).
Assisi is filled with convents, most of which rent rooms to pilgrims and travelers. While you don’t need to be a pilgrim or even a Christian to be welcome, it’s just common sense to stay in a convent only if you’re approaching Assisi with a contemplative mindset. Convents feel institutional, house many groups, and are not particularly cheap—but they come with all the facilities you might need to enjoy a spirit-filled visit to Assisi.
$$ St. Anthony’s Guest House is where the Franciscan Sisters of the Atonement offer a very warm and tranquil welcome. Their oasis of peace is just above the Basilica of St. Clare. With only 35 beds in 19 rooms (some with great views—request when you reserve) at a reasonable price, they book up literally months in advance (Sb-€45, Db-€65, Tb-€85, family rooms available, 2-night minimum, cash only for short stays, no problem if couples want to share a bed, elevator, no air-con but fans, Wi-Fi, 23:00 curfew, closed mid-Nov-Feb, library, views, picnic garden, parking-€3 donation; from the parking cashier in Piazza Matteotti, take the stairs down to the “tunnel romano,” then continue down on the elevator—it’s just to the left at Via Galeazzo Alessi 10; tel. 075-812-542, atoneassisi@tiscali.it).
$$ Le Mandrie di San Paolo (“The Herd of St. Paul”) is a meticulously restored 1,000-year-old stone house renting 13 rustic but comfortable rooms. Soulful Alex and the Damiani family are justifiably proud of their fine craftsmanship, passion for hospitality, and connection to the land. They have an olive grove (ask Alex if he’ll give you a tour of their modern mill in the valley), lots of animals, a beautiful swimming pool, sauna/steam room, fine restaurant, and spectacular views over Assisi and the valleys of Umbria (Db-€90; 2-bedroom apartments: Db-€105, Qb-€140, family deals, 3-night minimum in June-mid-Sept, Wi-Fi, mobile 349-821-7867, tel. 075-806-4070, www.agriturismomandriesanpaolo.it, mandrie10@gmail.com). Their restaurant is a great choice, and worth considering for non-guests who just want to get out of town—they produce their own olive oil and flour, and fire their bread ovens with their own wood (€25-30 for four-course meal, daily 19:30-22:00, in winter on request, reservations preferred). It’s about a 10-minute drive from Assisi, on the hill high above the village of Viole (a.k.a. San Vitale). Just head southeast of Assisi following signs for Viole; when you enter town, before you reach the arch, turn left and follow signs up the hill.
I’ve listed decent, central, good-value restaurants. Assisi’s food is heavy and rustic. Locals brag about their sausage and love to grate truffles on pasta. Many restaurants in town offer a fixed-price menù turistico for around €18—for the best value, find one that includes dessert and something to drink, such as at Trattoria Pallotta. But these menus often skip the more interesting local options: Don’t hesitate to order off the menu or choose one of the more exciting (and expensive) tasting menus.
To bump up any meal, consider a glass or bottle of the favorite homegrown red wine, Sagrantino de Montefalco. Sagrantino is Umbria’s answer to Brunello (although many wine lovers around here would say that it’s vice versa). Before or after dinner, enjoy a drink on the main square facing the Roman temple...or hang out with the local teens with a takeaway beer under the temple’s columns.
(See “Assisi Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Ristorante Medioevo is my vote for your best splurge. With heavy but spacious cellar vaults, William Ventura’s restaurant is an elegant, accessible playground of gastronomy. He features traditional cuisine with a modern twist, dictated by what’s in season. While his first passion is cooking, his second is music—mellow jazz and bossa nova give a twinkle to the medieval atmosphere. Dishes are well-presented; beef and game dishes are the specialties, and the wonderful Sagrantino wine is served by the glass. As a special treat for readers of this book, when you order a glass of Sagrantino, you’ll receive a small slice of just the right strong pecorino cheese—to better understand the Italian fascination with “a good marriage” between food and wine (€9-13 pastas, €12-16 secondi, Thu-Tue 12:15-15:00 & 19:00-22:45, closed Wed, in winter open weekends only; from the fountain on Piazza del Comune, hike downhill two blocks to Via Arco dei Priori 4; tel. 075-813-068).
(See “Assisi Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Trattoria Pallotta, a local favorite run by a friendly and hardworking family—with Margarita in charge of the kitchen—offers delicious, well-presented regional specialties, such as piccione (squab, a.k.a. pigeon) and coniglio (rabbit). And they like to serve split courses (bis) featuring the two local pastas. Reservations are smart (€5-9 primi, €8-16 secondi, €18 fixed-price meal includes a simple dessert, wine and water, better €28 fixed-price meal showcases local specialties, Wed-Mon 12:15-14:30 & 19:00-23:00, last orders at 21:30, closed Tue, a few steps off Piazza del Comune across from temple/church at Vicolo della Volta Pinta 2, tel. 075-812-649, www.pallottaassisi.it).
At Locanda del Podestà, chef Stelvio cooks up tasty grilled Umbrian sausages, gnocchi alla locanda, and all manner of truffles, while Romina graciously serves happy diners who know a good value. Try the tasty scottaditto (“scorch your fingers”) lamb chops (€5-9 pastas, €7-16 secondi, €18 fixed-price meal includes coffee, Thu-Tue 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-21:30, closed Wed and Feb, 5-minute walk uphill along Via Cardinale Merry del Val from basilica, Via San Giacomo 6C—see map on here, tel. 075-816-553).
Ristorante Metastasio, just up the street from Podestà, offers a pricey, traditional menu and Assisi’s best view terrace for dining (€9-13 pastas, €10-18 secondi, Thu-Tue 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-21:30, closed Wed, terrace closed in bad weather, Via Metastasio 9, tel. 075-816-525).
Trattoria da Erminio has peaceful tables on a tiny square, and indoor seating under a big, medieval (but air-conditioned) brick vault. Run by Federico and his family for three generations, it specializes in local meat cooked on an open-fire grill. They have good Umbrian wines—before you order, ask Federico or Giuliana for a taste of the Petranera wine (€8-11 pastas, €8-14 grilled meats, €18 fixed-price meal changes weekly, Fri-Wed 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-21:00, closed Thu; from Piazza San Rufino, go a block up Via Porta Perlici and turn right to Via Montacavallo 19; tel. 075-812-506).
(See “Assisi Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
There are many little grocery stores (alimentari) near Piazza del Comune (one is a block uphill from the main square, at Via San Rufino 19), plus bakeries selling pizza by the slice.
Consider La Bottega dei Sapori for assembling a picnic of Umbrian treats: good prosciutto sandwiches and specialty items, including truffle paste and olive oil. Fabrizio, who is a slow-food enthusiast, may give you a taste. He’s pricey (especially if you eat in), so be sure you understand the cost before ordering anything (€4 sandwiches, local wines to go, daily 9:30-20:00, until 21:00 in summer, Piazza del Comune 34, tel. 075-812-294).
From Assisi by Train to: Rome (nearly hourly, 2-3.5 hours, 5 direct, most others change in Foligno; train timetables change frequently—double-check details), Florence (8/day direct, 2-3 hours), Orvieto (roughly hourly, 2-3 hours, with transfer in Terantola or Orte), Siena (10/day, 3.25-4.25 hours, most involve 2 changes; bus is faster). The train station’s ticket office is often open only Mon-Fri 12:30-20:00, closed Sat-Sun; when the office is closed, use the ticket machine (newsstands sell only regional tickets). Up in Assisi’s old town, you can get train information and tickets from Agenzia Viaggi Stoppini (see “Helpful Hints” on here). Also try online, at www.trenitalia.com.
By Bus: Service to Rome is operated by the Sulga bus company (2/day, 3 hours, pay driver, departs from Piazza San Pietro, arrives at Rome’s Tiburtina station, where you can connect with the train to Fiumicino airport, tel. 800-099-661, www.sulga.it). A bus for Siena (daily at 10:20, 1.75 hours, www.baltour.it) departs from the stop next to the Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels, near the train station; usually you can’t buy Siena tickets from the driver—buy them at Assisi’s Agenzia Viaggi Stoppini (see “Helpful Hints” on here). Don’t take the bus to Florence; the train is better.
By Plane: Perugia/Assisi Airport, about 10 miles from Assisi, has daily connections to London Stansted and Brussels (on Ryanair), and to a few Mediterranean destinations (airport code: PEG, tel. 075-592-141, www.airport.umbria.it). Bus service between Assisi and the airport is so sporadic (just a few times a day—see www.umbriamobilita.it) that you should plan on taking a taxi (about €30).