Sleeping in Civita or Bagnoregio
Eating in Civita or Bagnoregio
While Tuscany is justifiably famous for its many fine hill towns, Umbria, just to the south, has some stellar offerings of its own. Assisi (covered in its own chapter) is a must for nature lovers and Franciscan pilgrims. But if you’re after views, wine, and charming villages, you’ll find Umbria’s best in Orvieto and in Civita di Bagnoregio (which is technically just across the border in Lazio, the same region as Rome). About a 30-minute drive apart, these hill towns—one big, one small—perch high above scenic plains. Pleasant Orvieto is best known for its colorful-inside-and-out cathedral and its fine Orvieto Classico wine. Tiny Civita di Bagnoregio, my favorite hill town, is an improbable pinnacle of traditional Italian village culture, just accessible enough that modern tourists are keeping it going. Taken together, Orvieto and Civita make a perfect duet for experiencing what all the hill-town fuss is about.
The town of Orvieto and the village of Civita deserve at least an overnight, although even a few hours in each is enough to sample what they have to offer. Both are also great places to slow down and relax. Stay in one, and side-trip to the other (Orvieto has more restaurants and other amenities and is easier to reach, while Civita really lets you get away from it all). The two towns are connected by a 30-minute drive or a 45-minute bus ride, and Orvieto is conveniently close to Rome (about an hour away by train or expressway).
Just off the freeway and the main train line, Umbria’s grand hill town entices those heading to and from Rome. While no secret, it’s well worth a visit. The town sits majestically on its tufo throne a thousand feet above the valley floor (for more on volcanic tuff, see the sidebar on here). Orvieto became a regional power in the Middle Ages, and even earlier, a few centuries before Christ, it was one of a dozen major Etruscan cities. Some historians believe Orvieto may have been a religious center—a kind of Etruscan Mecca (locals are looking for archaeological proof—the town and surrounding countryside are dotted with Etruscan ruins).
Orvieto has three popular claims to fame: cathedral, Classico wine, and ceramics. Drinking a shot of the local white wine in a ceramic cup as you gaze up at the cathedral lets you experience Orvieto’s three C’s all at once. (Is the cathedral best in the afternoon, when the facade basks in golden light, or early in the morning, when it rises above the hilltop mist? You decide.) Though loaded with tourists by day, Orvieto is quiet by night, and a visit here comes with a wonderful bonus: close proximity to the unforgettable Civita di Bagnoregio (covered later in this chapter).
Orvieto has two distinct parts: the old-town hilltop and the dreary new town below (called Orvieto Scalo). Whether coming by train or car, you first arrive in the nondescript, modern lower part of town. From there you can drive or take the funicular, elevator, or escalator up to the medieval upper town, an atmospheric labyrinth of streets and squares where all the sightseeing action is.
The TI is on the cathedral square at Piazza del Duomo 24 (Mon-Fri 8:15-13:50 & 16:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-13:00 & 15:00-18:00, tel. 0763-341-772). Pick up the free city map and their green city guide, and ask about train and bus schedules. The ticket office next to the main TI sells combo-tickets and books reservations for the underground tours (tel. 0763-340-688). Depending on funding, the town may also have a branch TI at Piazza Cahen (at the top of the funicular) during summer.
Combo-Ticket: The €20 Carta Unica combo-ticket covers Orvieto’s top sights (virtually every sight recommended here, including Underground Orvieto Tours) and includes one round-trip on the bus and/or funicular (www.cartaunica.it). To cover your funicular ride, you can buy the combo-ticket on your arrival in the lower town—either at the bar or newsstand at the train station (if they haven’t run out), or at a seasonal ticket office in the parking lot (below the station, Easter-Sept daily 9:00-16:00, closed Oct-Easter, tel. 0763-302-378). The combo-ticket is also available at the ticket office next to the TI on Piazza del Duomo, as well as at most of the sights it covers.
By Train: The train station is at the foot of the hill the old town sits on. There’s no baggage storage at the train station, but Hotel Picchio, 300 yards from the station at Via G. Salvatori 17, stores day-trippers’ luggage for €5 per bag (leaving the station, go left, then right up Via G. Salvatori, tel. 0763-301-144). Check at the station for the train schedule to your next destination (schedule is also available at the TI or online at www.trenitalia.com).
The easiest way to the top of town (including the cathedral and my recommended hotels) is by funicular: Buy your ticket at the entrance to the funiculare; look for the biglietteria sign (€1.30, good for 1.5 hours, includes minibus from Piazza Cahen to Piazza del Duomo, Mon-Sat 7:20-20:30, Sun 8:00-20:30, about every 10 minutes). Or buy a Carta Unica combo-ticket (described earlier) to cover your funicular ride.
As you exit the funicular at the top, you’re in Piazza Cahen, located at the east end of the upper town. To your left is a ruined fortress with a garden and a commanding view. To your right, down a steep path, is St. Patrick’s Well. Farther to the right is a park with Etruscan ruins and another sweeping view.
Just in front of you is the small shuttle bus (usually white or orange), waiting to take you to Piazza del Duomo at no extra charge (included in your funicular ticket; 3-6/hour, confirm destination with the driver—”Duomo?”). The bus fills up fast, but the views from the ruined fortress are worth pausing for—if you miss the bus, you can wait for the next one, or just walk to the cathedral (head uphill on Corso Cavour; after about 10 minutes, take a left onto Via del Duomo). The bus drops you in Piazza del Duomo, just steps from the main TI and within easy walking distance of most of my recommended sights and hotels.
If you arrive outside the funicular’s operating hours, you can reach the upper part of town by taxi (see later) or bus to Piazza della Repubblica (buses run roughly 2/hour until midnight, buy €1.30 ticket at bar inside station).
By Car: For free parking, use the huge lot below the train station (5 minutes off the autostrada; follow the P funiculare signs). Walk through the station and ride the funicular up the hill (see “By Train,” above).
It’s also possible to park in the old town. While little free parking is available, there are several pay options: the small lot in Piazza Marconi, near Orvieto’s cathedral (€1.50 for first hour, €1/hour thereafter); the south half (blue lines) of Piazza Cahen (€1.20/hour); northwest of Piazza Cahen at the lot on Via Roma (€1/hour), and the Campo della Fiera lot just below the west end of town (€1/hour; from top level of lot, walk up into town or take escalator—7:00-21:00—or elevator—7:00-24:00; both free). While white lines generally indicate free parking, much of it is marked for residents only. Blue lines require you to buy a “pay and display” slip from a nearby machine.
While you can drive up Via Postierla and Via Roma to get to central parking lots, Corso Cavour and other streets in the old center are closed to traffic and monitored by cameras (look for red lights, and avoid streets marked by a red circle).
By Taxi: Taxis line up in front of the train station and charge about €12 for a ride to the cathedral (a ridiculous price considering the ease and pleasure of the €1.30 funicular/shuttle-bus ride to the cathedral square; mobile 360-433-057).
Market Days and Festivals: On Thursday and Saturday mornings, Piazza del Popolo becomes a busy farmers’ market. The same square hosts an arts-and-crafts market some Sundays. Orvieto is also busy during the Umbria Jazz festival that takes place for a few days before New Year’s (www.umbriajazz.com).
Internet Access: Caffè Montanucci has four terminals (€2.50/30 minutes, free if you buy food, daily 7:00-24:00, Corso Cavour 21), and Copisteria Espa has two (€3/30 minutes, Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:30, Sat 9:00-13:00, closed Sun, Via Felice Cavallotti 9).
Bookstore: Libreria dei Sette has a small selection of English-language books (daily 9:00-13:00 & 16:00-20:00, next to Torre del Moro at Corso Cavour 85, tel. 0763-344-436).
Laundry: There’s a coin launderette in the lower town, a 10-minute walk from the train station. It’s a bit of a haul from central hotels, and instructions are in Italian only, but it’s workable if you’re desperate (daily 7:00-22:00, Piazza del Comercio, off via Monte Nibbio, mobile 393-758-6120).
Car/Minibus Service: Giuliotaxi is run by charming, English-speaking Giulio and his sister, Maria Serena. They have a car (for up to 4) and a minibus (for up to 8). I’ve organized two special excursions with them that offer great efficiency and value for couples and small groups going from Orvieto to Civita: Rather than hassle with a bus and long walks, book Giulo for the drive to Civita, a two-hour wait, and the return to Orvieto (€80/car, €100/minibus). For a longer trip, book a drive to Civita, visit for two hours, explore around Lake Bolsena for a couple more hours, and then head back to Orvieto (5 hours total, €150/car, €180/minibus). If you assemble a small group at your hotel and split the cost, this service becomes an even better deal. They can take you to other destinations, as well (mobile 360-433-057, giuliotaxi@libero.it).
Car Rental: Hertz and Avis have offices facing the funicular station, 100 yards to the left; Hertz—Via Sette Martiri 32f, tel. 0763-301-303; Avis—Via Sette Martiri 44, tel. 0763-450-177.
Local Guide: Manuela del Turco is good (€120/2.5-hour tour, mobile 333-221-9879, manueladel@virgilio.it).
After Dark: In the evening, there’s little going on other than strolling and eating. The big passeggiata scene is down Via del Duomo and Corso Cavour. See here for good places to enjoy the show.
This quickie L-shaped self-guided walk takes you from the Duomo through Orvieto’s historic center. Each evening, this route is the scene of the local passeggiata.
Facing the cathedral, head left. Stroll past the clock tower (first put here in 1347 for the workers building the cathedral), which marks the start of Via del Duomo, lined with shops selling ceramics. Via dei Magoni (second left) has several artisan shops and the crazy little Il Mago di Oz (“Wizard of Oz”) shop, a wondrous toyland created by eccentric Giuseppe Rosella (Via dei Magoni 3, tel. 0763-342-063). Have Giuseppe push a few buttons, and you’re far from Kansas (no photos allowed).
Via del Duomo continues to Orvieto’s main intersection, where it meets Corso Cavour and a tall, stark tower—the Torre del Moro. The tower marks the center of town, serves as a handy orientation tool, and is decorated by the coats of arms of past governors. The elevator leaves you with 173 steps still to go to earn a commanding view (€3, daily March-Oct 10:00-19:00, May-Aug until 20:00, Nov-Feb 10:30-16:30).
This crossroads divides the town into four quarters (notice the Quartiere signs on the corners). In the past, residents of these four districts competed in a lively equestrian competition on Piazza del Popolo during the annual Corpus Christi celebration. Historically, the four streets led from here to the market and the fine palazzo on Piazza del Popolo, the well, the Duomo, and City Hall.
Before heading left down Corso Cavour, side-trip a block farther ahead, behind the tower, for a look at the striking Palazzo del Popolo. Built of local tufo, this is a textbook example of a fortified medieval public palace: a fortress designed to house the city’s leadership and military, with a market at its base, fancy meeting rooms upstairs, and aristocratic living quarters on the top level.
Return to the tower and head down Corso Cavour (turning right) past classic storefronts to Piazza della Repubblica and City Hall. The original vision—though it never came to fruition—was for City Hall to have five arches flanking the main central arch (marked by the flags today). The Church of Sant’Andrea (left of City Hall) sits atop an Etruscan temple that was likely the birthplace of Orvieto centuries before Christ. Inside is an interesting architectural progression: Romanesque (with few frescoes surviving), Gothic (the pointy vaults over the altar), and a Renaissance barrel vault in the apse (behind the altar)—all lit by fine alabaster windows.
From City Hall, you can continue to the far end of town to the Church of Sant’Agostino, where you can see the statues of the apostles that once stood in the Duomo (included in the MoDo ticket; see here). From here you can take a left and walk the cliffside ramparts (see “View Walks,” later).
Near the Duomo: MoDo and Other Museums
▲▲MoDo City Museum (Museo dell’Opera del Duomo)
National Archaeological Museum of Orvieto (Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Orvieto)
Etruscan Museum (Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico)
▲▲St. Patrick’s Well (Pozzo di San Patrizio)
Well of the Cave (Pozzo della Cava)
Underground Orvieto Tours (Parco delle Grotte)
Etruscan Necropolis (Necropoli Etrusca di Crocifisso del Tufo)
▲Hike Around the City on the Rupe
▲Shorter Romantic Rampart Stroll
Oriveto’s cathedral has Italy’s liveliest facade. This colorful, prickly Gothic facade, divided by four pillars, has been compared to a medieval altarpiece. The optical-illusion interior features some fine art, including Luca Signorelli’s lavishly frescoed Chapel of San Brizio.
Cost and Hours: €3; April-Sept Mon-Sat 9:30-19:00, Sun 13:00-17:30 or until 18:30 July-Sept; March and Oct Mon-Sat 9:30-18:00, Sun 13:00-17:30; Nov-Feb Mon-Sat 9:30-13:00 & 14:30-17:00, Sun 14:30-17:30; last entry 30 minutes before closing. A €5 combo-ticket includes the Duomo, the chapel, and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, called the “MoDo” (available at the chapel; MoDo alone costs €4). Admission is also covered by the €20 Carta Unica combo-ticket.
Self-Guided Tour (See “Orvieto’s Duomo” map, here.): Begin by viewing the exterior facade. Study this gleaming mass of mosaics, stained glass, and sculpture (c. 1300, by Lorenzo Maitani and others).
At the base of the cathedral, the four broad marble pillars carved with biblical scenes tell the history of the world in four acts, from left to right. The relief on the far left shows the Creation (see God creating Eve from Adam’s rib, and the snake tempting Eve). Next is the Tree of Jesse (Jesus’ family tree—with Mary, then Jesus on top) flanked by Old Testament stories, then the New Testament (look for the unique manger scene, and other events from the life of Christ). On the far right is the Last Judgment (Christ judging on top, with a commotion of sarcophagi popping open and all hell breaking loose at the bottom).
Each pillar is topped by a bronze symbol of one of the Evangelists: angel (Matthew), lion (Mark), eagle (John), and ox (Luke). The bronze doors are modern, by the Sicilian sculptor Emilio Greco. (A gallery devoted to Greco’s work is to the immediate right of the church; see here.) In the mosaic below the rose window, Mary is transported to heaven. In the uppermost mosaic, Mary is crowned.
• Now step inside.
The nave feels spacious and less cluttered than most Italian churches. Until 1877, it was much busier, with statues of the apostles at each column and fancy chapels. Then the people decided they wanted to “un-Baroque” their church. (The original statues are now on display in the Church of Sant’Agostino, at the west end of town.)
The interior is warmly lit by alabaster windows, highlighting the black-and-white striped stonework. Why such a big and impressive church in such a little town? First of all, it’s not as big as it looks. The architect created an illusion—with the nave wider at the back and narrower at the altar, the space seems longer than it is. Still, it’s a big and rich cathedral—the seat of a bishop. Its historic importance and wealth is thanks to a miracle that happened nearby in 1263. According to the story, a skeptical priest named Peter of Prague passed through Bolsena (12 miles from Orvieto) while on a pilgrimage to Rome. He had doubts that the bread used in communion could really be transformed into the body of Christ. But during Mass, as he held the host aloft and blessed it, the bread began to bleed, running down his arms and dripping onto a linen cloth (a “corporal”) on the altar. That miraculously blood-stained cloth is now kept here, in the Chapel of the Corporal.
• We’ll tour the church’s interior. First, find the chapel in the north transept, left of the altar.
Chapel of the Corporal: The bloody cloth from the miracle is displayed in the turquoise frame atop the chapel’s altar. It was brought from Bolsena to Orvieto, where Pope Urban IV happened to be visiting. The amazed pope proclaimed a new holiday, Corpus Christi (Body of Christ), and the Orvieto cathedral was built (begun in 1290) to display the miraculous relic. Find the fine reliquary in a glass case on the left. Until the 1970s, this silver-and-blue enamel reliquary—made in the early 1300s, and considered one of the finest medieval jewels in Italy—held the linen relic as if in a frame. Notice how it evokes the facade of this cathedral. For centuries, the precious linen was paraded through the streets of Orvieto in this ornate reliquary.
The room was frescoed in the 14th century with scenes attesting to Christ’s presence in the communion wafer (for example, the panel above the glass case to the left illustrates how the wafer bleeds if you cook it). You can see the Miracle of Bolsena depicted in the fresco on the chapel’s right wall.
• Leave the Chapel of the Corporal and walk to the middle front of the church, where you’ll see a...
Patch in the Marble Floor Before the High Altar: Stand on the patch, which is a reminder that as the Roman Catholic Church countered the Reformation, it made reforms of its own. For instance, altars were moved back so that the congregation could sit closer to the spectacular frescoes and stained glass. (These decorations were designed to impress commoners by illustrating the glory of heaven—and the Catholic Church needed that propaganda more than ever during the Counter-Reformation.) This confused patching marks where the altar stood prior to the Counter-Reformation.
Enjoy the richness that surrounds you. This cathedral put Orvieto on the map, and with lots of pilgrims came lots of wealth. Two future popes used the town—perched on its easy-to-defend hilltop—as a refuge when their enemies forced them to flee Rome. The brilliant stained glass is the painstakingly restored original, from the 14th century. The fine organ, high on the left, has more than 5,000 pipes. Look high up in the right transept at the alabaster rose window. Then turn and face down the nave, the way you came in. Note how the architect’s trick—making the church look bigger from the rear—works in reverse from here. From this angle, the church appears stubbier than it actually is.
• Turn around and face the front. A few steps to your left, near the pillar, is a beautiful white-marble statue.
Pietà: The marble pietà (statue of Mary holding Jesus’ just-crucified body) was carved in 1579 by local artist Ippolito Scalza. Clearly inspired by Michelangelo’s Pietà, this exceptional work, with four figures, was sculpted from one piece of marble. Walk around it to notice the texture that Scalza achieved, and how the light plays on the sculpture from every angle.
• To the right of the main altar is Orvieto’s one must-see artistic sight, the...
Chapel of San Brizio: This chapel features Luca Signorelli’s brilliantly lit frescoes of the Day of Judgment and Life after Death (painted 1499-1504). Step into the chapel and you’re surrounded by vivid scenes crammed with figures. Although the frescoes refer to themes of resurrection and salvation, they also reflect the turbulent political and religious atmosphere of late 15th-century Italy.
The chapel is decorated in one big and cohesive story. Start with the wall to your left as you enter, and do a quick counterclockwise spin to get oriented to the basic plot: Antichrist (a false prophet), end of the world (above the arch leading to the nave), Resurrection of the Bodies, hell, Judgment Day (Fra Angelico painted Jesus above the window), and finally heaven.
Now do a slower turn to take in the full story: In the Sermon of the Antichrist (left wall), a crowd gathers around a man preaching from a pedestal. It’s the Antichrist, who comes posing as Jesus to mislead the faithful. This befuddled Antichrist forgets his lines mid-speech, but the Devil is on hand to whisper what to say next. His words sow wickedness through the world, including executions (upper right). The worried woman in red and white (foreground, left of pedestal) gets money from a man for something she’s not proud of (perhaps receiving funds from a Jewish moneylender—notice the Stars of David on his purse).
Most likely, the Antichrist himself is a veiled reference to Savonarola (1452-1498), the charismatic Florentine monk who defied the pope, drove the Medici family from power, and riled the populace with apocalyptic sermons. Many Italians—including the painter Signorelli—viewed Savonarola as a tyrant and heretic, the Antichrist who was ushering in the Last Days.
In the upper left, notice the hardworking angel. He looks as if he’s at batting practice, hitting followers of the Antichrist back to earth as they try to get through the pearly gates. In the bottom left is a self-portrait of the artist, Luca Signorelli (c. 1450-1523), well-dressed in black with long golden hair. Signorelli, from nearby Cortona, was at the peak of his powers, and this chapel was his masterpiece. He looks out proudly as if to say, “I did all this in just five years, on time and on budget,” confirming his reputation as a speedy, businesslike painter. Next to him (also in black) is the artist Fra Angelico, who started the chapel decoration five decades earlier but completed only a small part of it.
Around the arch, opposite the windows, are signs of the end of the world: eclipse, tsunami, falling stars, earthquakes, violence in the streets, and a laser-wielding gray angel.
On the right wall (opposite the Antichrist) is the Resurrection of the Bodies. Trumpeting angels blow a wake-up call, and the dead climb dreamily out of the earth to be clothed with new bodies. On the same wall (below the action, at eye level) is a gripping pietà. Also by Signorelli, this pietà gives an insight into the artist’s genius and personality. Look at the emotion in the faces of the two Marys and consider that Signorelli’s son had just died. The Deposition scene (behind Jesus’ leg) seems inspired by ancient Greek scenes of a pre-Christian hero’s death. In the confident spirit of the Renaissance, the artist incorporates a pagan scene to support a Christian story. This 3-D realism in a 2-D sketch shows the work of a talented master.
The altar wall (with the windows) features the Last Judgment. To the left of the altar (and continuing around the corner, filling half the left wall) are the Elect in Heaven. They spend eternity posing like bodybuilders while listening to celestial Muzak. To the right (and continuing around the corner on the right wall) are the Damned in Hell, in the scariest mosh pit ever. Devils torment sinners in graphic detail, while winged demons control the airspace overhead. In the center, one lusty demon turns to tell the frightened woman on his back exactly what he’s got planned for their date. (According to legend, this was Signorelli’s lover, who betrayed him...and ended up here.) Signorelli’s ability to tell a story through human actions and gestures, rather than symbols, inspired his younger contemporary, Michelangelo, who meticulously studied the elder artist’s nudes.
In this chapel, Christian theology sits physically and figuratively upon a foundation of classical logic. Below everything are Greek and Latin philosophers, plus Dante, struggling to reconcile Classical truth with Church doctrine. You can see the intellectual challenge on their faces as they ponder this puzzle. They’re immersed in fanciful Grotesque (i.e., grotto-esque) decor. Dating from 1499, this is one of the first uses of the frilly, nubile, and even sexy “wallpaper pattern” so popular in the Renaissance. (It was inspired by the decorations found in Nero’s Golden House in Rome, which had been discovered under street level just a few years earlier and was mistaken for an underground grotto.)
During the Renaissance, nakedness symbolized purity. When attitudes changed during the Counter-Reformation, the male figures in Signorelli’s frescoes were given penis-covering sashes. During a 1982 restoration, most—but not all—of the sashes were removed. A little of that prudishness survives to this day, as those in heaven were left with their sashes modestly in place.
• Our tour is finished. Leaving the church, turn left (passing a small parking lot and WC) to reach a park that affords a fine Umbrian view. Turn left twice, and you’ll circle behind the church to reach the cathedral’s art collections (part of MoDo, described next).
This museum is a confusing ensemble of three different sights scattered around town: the cathedral art collection behind the cathedral; the Emilio Greco collection (next to the cathedral, in Palazzo Soliano); and, at the far end of town, the Church of Sant’Agostino, which has statues of the 12 apostles that were added to the Duomo in the Baroque Age (c. 1700) and removed in the late 1800s.
Cost and Hours: €4 MoDo ticket covers all MoDo sights (or get the €5 combo-ticket that includes the Duomo); April-Sept daily 9:30-19:00; March and Oct Wed-Mon 10:00-17:00, closed Tue; Nov-Feb Wed-Mon 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Tue; last entry 30 minutes before closing, Piazza Duomo, tel. 0763-343-592, www.opsm.it.
Cathedral Art Collections: Behind the Duomo, a complex of medieval palaces called Palazzi Papali shows off the city’s best devotional art. It comes in two parts: the skippable collection of frescoes on the ground floor, and a delightful collection up the metal staircase. The highlight is just inside the upstairs entrance: a marble Mary and Child who sit beneath a bronze canopy, attended by exquisite angels. This proto-Renaissance ensemble, dating from around 1300, once filled the niche in the center of the cathedral’s facade (where a replica sits today). In several art-filled rooms on this floor, you’ll find Baroque paintings from the late 1500s that decorated the side chapels with a harsh Counter-Reformation message; a Madonna and Child from 1322 by the Sienese great Simone Martini, who worked in Orvieto; other saintly statues and fine inlaid woodwork from the original choir; a carved 14th-century Crucifixion that shows the dead Christ in gripping detail; and more church art surrounded by sinopias (preliminary drawings for the frescoes decorating the cathedral’s Chapel of the Corporal, with a roughed-up surface so the wet plaster would stick).
Museo Emilio Greco: This fresh little collection shows off the work of Emilio Greco (1913-1995), a Sicilian artist who designed the modern doors of Orvieto’s cathedral. His sketches and about 30 of his bronze statues are on display here, showing his absorption with gently twisting and turning nudes. Greco’s sketchy outlines of women are simply beautiful. The artful installation of his work in this palazzo, with walkways and a spiral staircase up to the ceiling, is designed to let you view his sculptures from different angles.
This small five-room collection, immediately behind the cathedral in the ground floor of Palazzi Papali (under MoDo), beautifully shows off a trove of well-preserved Etruscan bronzes, terra-cotta objects, and ceramics—many from the necropolis at the base of Orvieto, and some with painted colors surviving from 500 B.C. To see the treasure of this museum, ask an attendant for the Golini tombs (named after the man who discovered them in 1836). She’ll escort you to the reconstructed, forth-century B.C. tombs, frescoed with scenes from an Etruscan banquet in the afterlife.
Cost and Hours: €3, daily 8:30-19:30, tel. 0763-341-039. For background on the Etruscans, see here.
This 19th-century, Neoclassical nobleman’s palace stands on the main square facing the cathedral. Its elegantly frescoed rooms hold an impressive Etruscan collection. The ground floor features the “Museo Civico,” with fragments of Etruscan sculpture. On the first floor is the “Collezione Conti Faina,” with Etruscan jewelry and an extensive array of Roman coins (push the brass buttons and the coins rotate so you can see both sides). The top floor features the best of the Etruscan and proto-Etruscan (from the ninth century B.C.) vases and bronzes, lots of votives found buried in nearby tombs, and fine views of the Duomo.
Cost and Hours: €4.50; April-Sept daily 9:30-18:00; Oct-March Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon; English descriptions throughout, tel. 0763-341-511, www.museofaina.it.
Modern engineers are impressed by this deep well—175 feet deep and 45 feet wide—designed in the 16th century with a double-helix pattern. The two spiral stairways allow an efficient one-way traffic flow: intriguing now, but critical then. Imagine if donkeys and people, balancing jugs of water, had to go up and down the same stairway. At the bottom is a bridge that people could walk on to scoop up water.
The well was built because a pope got nervous. After Rome was sacked in 1527 by renegade troops of the Holy Roman Empire, the pope fled to Orvieto. He feared that even this little town (with no water source on top) would be besieged. He commissioned a well, which was started in 1527 and finished 10 years later. It was a huge project. (As it turns out, the town was never besieged, but supporters believe that the well was worth the cost and labor because of its deterrence value—attackers would think twice about besieging a town with a reliable water source.) Even today, when a local is faced with a difficult task, people say, “It’s like digging St. Patrick’s Well.” It’s a total of 496 steps up and down—lots of exercise and not much to see other than some amazing 16th-century engineering.
Cost and Hours: €5, interesting €1 audioguide, daily May-Aug 9:00-19:45, March-April and Sept-Oct 9:00-18:45, Nov-Feb 10:00-16:45, to your right as you exit the funicular, Viale Sangallo, tel. 0763-343-768. Bring a sweater if you plan to descend to the chilly depths, and allow about 20 minutes to go down and up.
While renovating its trattoria, an Orvieto family discovered a vast underground network of Etruscan-era caves, wells, and tunnels. The excavation started in 1984 and continues to this day. It’s well-explained in English and makes for a fun subterranean wander.
Cost and Hours: €3, €2 with St. Patrick’s Well or funicular ticket, Tue-Sun 9:00-20:00, closed Mon, Via della Cava 28, tel. 0763-342-373, www.pozzodellacava.it.
Guides weave archaeological history into a good look at about 100 yards of Etruscan and medieval caves. You’ll see the remains of an old olive press, an impressive 130-foot-deep Etruscan well shaft, what’s left of a primitive cement quarry, and an extensive dovecote (pigeon coop) where the birds were reared for roasting (pigeon dishes are still featured on many Orvieto menus; look for—or avoid—piccione).
Cost and Hours: €6; 45-minute English tours depart at 11:15, 12:30, 16:15, and 17:30; more often with demand, book tour and depart from ticket office at Piazza Duomo 23 (next to main TI); confirm times at TI or by calling 0763-340-688, www.orvietounderground.it.
Below town, at the base of the cliff, is a remarkable “city of the dead” that dates back to the sixth to third century B.C. The tombs, which are laid out in a kind of street grid, are empty, and there’s precious little to see here other than the basic stony construction. But it is both eerie and fascinating to wander the streets of an Etruscan cemetery.
Cost and Hours: €3, daily April-Sept 8:30-19:30, Oct-March 8:30-17:30.
Orvieto’s Rupe is a peaceful paved path that completely circles the town at the base of the cliff upon which it sits. With the help of the TI’s Anello delle Rupe map, you’ll see there are five access points from the town for the three-mile walk (allow about two hours round-trip). Once on the trail, it’s fairly level and easy to follow. On one side you have the cliff, with the town high above. On the other side you have Umbrian views stretching into the distance. I’d leave Orvieto at Piazza Marconi and walk left (counterclockwise) three-quarters of the way around the town (there’s a fine view down onto the Etruscan Necropolis midway), and ride the escalator and elevator back up to the town from the big Campo della Fiera parking lot. If you’re ever confused about the path, follow the la Rupe signs.
Thanks to its dramatic hilltop setting, several fine little walks wind around the edges of Orvieto. My favorite after dark, when it’s lamp-lit and romantic, is along the ramparts at the far west end of town. Start at the Church of Sant’Agostino. With your back to the church, go a block to the right to the end of town. Then head left along the ramparts, with cypress-dotted Umbria to your right, and follow Vicolo Volsinia to the Church of San Giovanni Evangelista, where you can re-enter the old town center near several recommended restaurants.
Orvieto Classico wine is justly famous. Two inviting wineries sit just outside Orvieto on the scenic Canale route to Bagnoregio; if you’re side-tripping to Civita, it’s easy to stop at either or both for a tasting (but call ahead).
For a short tour of a winery with Etruscan cellars, make an appointment to visit Tenuta Le Velette, where English-speaking Corrado and Cecilia (cheh-CHEEL-yah) Bottai will welcome you (€8-21 for tour and tasting, price varies depending on wines and number of people, Mon-Fri 8:30-12:00 & 14:00-17:00, Sat 8:30-12:00, closed Sun, also has accommodations—see listing on here, tel. 0763-29090, mobile 348-300-2002, www.levelette.it). From their sign (5-minute drive past Orvieto at top of switchbacks just before Canale, on road to Bagnoregio), cruise down a long tree-lined drive, then park at the striped gate (must call ahead; no drop-ins).
Custodi is another respected family-run winery that produces Orvieto Classico, grappa, and olive oil on their 140-acre estate. Helpful Chiara and Laura Custodi speak English. Reserve ahead for a tour of their cantina, an explanation of the winemaking process, and a tasting of four of their wines. An assortment of salumi and local cheeses to go with your wine-tasting is possible on request (€7/person for wines only, €16/person with light lunch, daily 8:30-12:30 & 15:30-18:30 except closed Sun afternoons, Viale Venere S.N.C. Loc. Canale; on the road from Orvieto to Civita, a half-mile after Le Velette, it’s the first building before Canale; tel. 0763-29053, mobile 392-161-9334, www.cantinacustodi.com, info@cantinacustodi.com).
The prices I’ve listed are for high season—roughly May to early July and in September and October, as well as during the Umbria Jazz festival in the days before New Year’s.
$$$ Hotel Duomo is centrally located and modern, with splashy art and 17 rooms. Double-paned windows keep the sound of the church bells well-muffled (Sb-€80, Db-€120, Db suite-€140, Tb-€150, extra bed-€10, 10 percent discount with this book in 2015 if you pay cash and book direct, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, private parking-€10, sunny terrace, a block from the Duomo at Vicolo di Maurizio 7, tel. 0763-341-887, www.orvietohotelduomo.com, info@orvietohotelduomo.com, Gianni and Maura Massaccesi don’t speak English, daughter Elisa does). The Massaccesi family also owns a three-room B&B 50 yards from the hotel (Sb-€70, Db-€90, Tb-€110, Wi-Fi, breakfast at the main hotel).
$$$ Grand Hotel Italia feels businesslike, bringing predictable modern amenities to this small town. The 46 rooms are well-located in the heart of Orvieto (Sb-€80, Db-€120, Db with terrace-€140, extra bed-€20, air-con, elevator, stay-awhile lobby and terrace, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking-€10—reserve ahead, Via di Piazza del Popolo 13, tel. 0763-342-065, www.grandhotelitalia.it, hotelita@libero.it).
$$ Hotel Corso is friendly, with 18 frilly and flowery rooms—a few with balconies and views. Their sunlit little terrace is enjoyable, but the location—halfway between the center of town and the funicular—feels less convenient than others (Sb-€65, Db-€95, Tb-€120, 10 percent discount for my readers if you book directly with hotel, buffet breakfast-€6.50, ask for quieter room off street, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, reserved parking-€8, up from funicular toward Duomo at Corso Cavour 343, tel. 0763-342-020, www.hotelcorso.net, info@hotelcorso.net, Carla).
$ La Magnolia B&B has lots of fancy terra-cotta tiles, a couple of rooms with frescoed ceilings, terraces, and other welcoming touches. Its seven unique rooms, some like mini-apartments with kitchens, are cheerfully decorated and on the town’s main drag. The three units facing the busy street are air-conditioned and have good double-paned windows (Db-€68, plush Db apartment-€78, extra person-€15, family deals; book directly with hotel, pay cash, and stay at least 2 nights to get a 10 percent Rick Steves discount; no elevator, Wi-Fi, use of washer-€3.50, Via Duomo 29, tel. 0763-342-808, mobile 349-462-0733, www.bblamagnolia.it, info@bblamagnolia.it, Serena and Loredana).
$ Affittacamere Valentina rents six clean, airy, well-appointed rooms, all with big beds and antique furniture. Her place is located in the heart of Orvieto, behind the palace on Piazza del Popolo (Db-€58/€65, Tb-€75/€85, studio with kitchen-€80/€90, lower rates are cash only and good with this book for stays of 2 or more nights; breakfast at nearby cafe-€5, air-con-€5, Wi-Fi, parking-€10/day, Via Vivaria 7, tel. 0763-341-607, mobile 393-970-5868, www.bandbvalentina.com, valentina.z@tiscalinet.it). Valentina also rents three rooms across the square (D-€58, shared bath and kitchen, no air-con) and three offsite apartments (€170/night with 3-night minimum).
$ Hotel Posta is a centrally located, long-ago-elegant palazzo renting 20 quirky and clean rooms with vintage furniture. The rooms without private bath are among the cheapest in town (S-€31, Sb-€37, D-€44, Db-€57, T-€60, Tb-€75, breakfast-€6, cash only, elevator, Wi-Fi in common areas, Via Luca Signorelli 18, tel. 0763-341-909, www.orvietohotels.it, hotelposta@orvietohotels.it, Alessia).
$ Villa Mercede, a good value, is owned by a religious institution and offers 23 cheap, simple, mostly twin-bedded rooms, each with a big modern bathroom and many with glorious Umbrian views (Sb-€50, Db-€70, Tb-€90, elevator, Wi-Fi, free parking, a half-block from Duomo at Via Soliana 2, reception upstairs, tel. 0763-341-766, www.villamercede.it, info@villamercede.it).
$ Istituto S.S. Salvatore rents nine spotless twin rooms and five singles in their convent, which comes with a peaceful terrace and garden, great views, and a 22:30 curfew. Though the nuns don’t speak English, tech-savvy Sister Maria Stella has mastered Google Translate, and will happily use it to answer your questions (Sb-€40, Db-€60, €5 less/person Oct-March, cash only, no breakfast, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi in common areas, free parking, just off Piazza del Popolo at Via del Popolo 1, tel. 0763-342-910, www.istitutosansalvatore.it, istitutosansalvatore@tiscali.it).
$ B&B Michelangeli offers two comfortable and well-appointed apartments hiding along a residential lane a few blocks from the tourist scene. It’s run by eager-to-please Francesca, who speaks limited English but provides homey touches and free tea, coffee, and breakfast supplies. This is a good choice for families (Db-€70, kids-€10 extra, fully equipped kitchen, Wi-Fi, washing machine, private parking-€5, Via dei Saracinelli 20—ring bell labeled M. Michelangeli, tel. 0763-393-862, mobile 347-089-0349, www.bbmichelangeli.com, f_michelangeli@alice.it).
Just Outside the Town Center: $$ Casa Sèlita B&B, a peaceful country house, offers easy access to Orvieto (best for drivers, but workable for adventurous train travelers). It’s nestled in an orchard just below the town cliffs; to get to town, you’ll climb a steep path through their fields to reach the big Campo della Fiera parking lot, with its handy escalator taking you the rest of the way up into Orvieto. Its five rooms with terraces are airy and fresh, with dark hardwood floors, fluffy down comforters, and modern baths. Enjoy the views from the relaxing garden. Conscientious Sèlita, her husband Ennio, and daughter Elena are gracious hosts (Sb-€55, Db-€80, Tb-€90, €5 less with stays of two or more nights, €5 more off-season for heat, air-con-€5, these prices promised to my readers through 2015 if you book directly with hotel, cash preferred, Wi-Fi, free parking, Strada di Porta Romana 8, don’t use GPS—sends you to the wrong location, mobile 339-225-4000 or 328-611-2052, tel. 0763-344-218, www.casaselita.com, info@casaselita.com).
All of these (except the last one) are within a 20-minute drive of Orvieto, in different directions, and require a car—see the map on here.
$$$ Alta Rocca Wine Resort, run by Emiliano and Sabrina, is a fancy spa-type “country resort,” located 15 minutes north of Orvieto by car. They produce their own olive oil and wine and have 17 rooms and 10 apartments—all with air-conditioning and Wi-Fi (Db-€90-160, 10 percent discount with this book—mention when you reserve, pool, panoramic view restaurant, wellness center with Jacuzzi and steam room, gym, mountain bikes, bocce court, hiking paths, tel. 0763-344-210 or 0763-393-437, www.altaroccawineresort.com, info@altaroccawineresort.com).
At $$$ Agriturismo Locanda Rosati, you’ll be greeted by friendly hosts Giampiero Rosati and niece Cristiana, who rent 10 tastefully decorated rooms in a pleasant, homey atmosphere (Db-€110-140, Tb-€140-160, full traditional dinners for €35 on request with this book, air-con, Wi-Fi, swimming pool, 5 miles from Orvieto on the road to Viterbo, tel. 0763-217-314, www.locandarosati.it, info@locandarosati.it).
$$$ Borgo Fontanile is a vacation home with a swimming pool, terrace, and kids’ play area. Its five new apartments with rustic wood beams and terra-cotta tile floors sleep up to four people (Db-€60-90, discounts for longer stays, €400-800/apartment per week, air-con-€8, Wi-Fi, Vocabolo Fornace 159, Loc. Baschi, tel. 0744-957-452, www.borgofontanile.com, info@borgofontanile.com).
$$ Tenuta le Velette is a sprawling, family-run farmhouse. Cecilia and Corrado Bottai rent six fully furnished apartments and villas scattered over their family’s expansive and scenic grounds. Rooms range wildly in size—accommodating from 2 to 14 people—but they all nestle in perfect Umbrian rural peace and tranquility (Db apartment-€80-110, see website or email for details on various villas—not all are listed online, 2-night minimum, 10 percent discount for weekly stay, Wi-Fi, pool, bocce court, 10 minutes from Orvieto—drive toward Bagnoregio-Canale and follow Tenuta le Velette signs, tel. 0763-29090, mobile 348-300-2002, www.levelette.it, cecilialevelette@libero.it). They also offer wine-tastings (see here).
$$ Agriturismo Cioccoleta (“Little Stone”) has eight rooms with cozy country decor, each named after one of the grapes grown in the agriturismo’s vineyards. It’s family-run and offers sweeping views of Orvieto and the pastoral countryside (Db-€75, Tb-€96, Qb-€110, 10 percent discount with this book—mention when you reserve, fans, Wi-Fi, 3 miles north of Orvieto at Località Bardano 34 in Bardano, tel. 0763-316-011, mobile 349-860-9780, www.cioccoleta.it, info@cioccoleta.it, Angela Zucconi).
$$ Agriturismo Poggio della Volara, located between Todi and Orvieto (12 miles from either), has seven apartments (sleeping from two to five people) and seven rooms in two buildings overlooking a swimming pool. Along with keeping rabbits, geese, dogs, and ducks, Marco produces wine and olive oil and offers dinner on request (Db-€100, Tb-€120, smaller apartment-€100, larger apartment-€160, room rates include breakfast but costs €8 extra in apartments, dinner-€30-35, air-con in all but four rooms, Wi-Fi, tel. 0744-951-820, mobile 347-335-2523, www.poggiodellavolara.it, info@poggiodellavolara.it).
Farther Out, Northwest of Todi: $$$ Agriturismo Fattoria di Vibio produces olive oil and honey, sells organic products, and offers classes and spa services. In August, its 14 rooms rent at peak prices (and for one week during the month they require a minimum seven-night stay, with arrivals and departures on Saturdays). The rest of the year, no minimum stay is required, although rates drop dramatically for longer visits. Its three cottages sleep from four to six people and rent only by the week (Db-€120-200, cottages-€1,260-2,100/week depending on amenities, see complicated rate table on website, farthest cottage is 20 miles northeast of Orvieto, Wi-Fi, tel. 075-874-9607, www.fattoriadivibio.com, info@fattoriadivibio.com).
(See “Orvieto” map, here.)
Trattoria La Palomba features game and truffle specialties in a wood-paneled dining room. Giampiero, Enrica, and the Cinti family enthusiastically take care of their regulars and visiting travelers, offering both a fine value and a classy conviviality. Truffles are shaved right at your table—try the ombricelli al tartufo (homemade pasta with truffles) or spaghetti dell’Ascaro (with truffles), then perhaps follow that with piccione (pigeon). As firm believers in the slow-food movement, they use ingredients that are mostly organic and locally sourced (€10 pastas, €9-15 secondi, Thu-Tue 12:30-14:15 & 19:30-22:00, closed Wed and July, reservations smart, just off Piazza della Repubblica at Via Cipriano Manente 16, tel. 0763-343-395).
L’Antica Trattoria dell’Orso offers well-prepared Umbrian cuisine paired with fine wines in a homey, bohemian-chic, peaceful atmosphere. Ciro and chef Gabriele enjoy getting to know their diners, and will steer you toward the freshest seasonal plates of their famous pastas and passionately prepared vegetables. Gabriele—who loves to put together a “trust your chef” multicourse tasting menu—offers an amazing value for my readers: €30 for two people, including their fine house wine and water—my vote for the best dining value in town (€10-12 pastas, €12-16 secondi, Wed-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 19:30-22:00, Sun 12:00-14:00, closed Mon-Tue and Feb, just off Piazza della Repubblica at Via della Misericordia 18, tel. 0763-341-642).
Trattoria del Moro Aronne is a long-established family bistro run by Cristian and his mother Rolanda, who lovingly prepare homemade pasta and market-fresh meats and produce for their typical Umbrian specialties. Be sure to sample the nidi—folds of fresh pasta enveloping warm, gooey pecorino cheese sweetened with honey. The crème brûlée is a winner for dessert. Three small and separate dining areas make the interior feel intimate. It’s touristy and not particularly atmospheric, but this place is known locally as an excellent value (€8-10 pastas, €10-14 secondi, Wed-Mon 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:00, closed Tue, Via San Leonardo 7, tel. 0763-342-763).
Trattoria la Grotta prides itself on serving only the freshest food and finest wine. The decor is Signorelli-mod, and the ambience is quiet, with courteous service. Owner-chef Franco has been at it for 50 years, and promises diners a free coffee, grappa, limoncello, or vin santo with this book (€8 pastas, €14-18 secondi, Wed-Mon opens at 12:00 for lunch and at 19:00 for dinner, closed Tue, Via Luca Signorelli 5, tel. 0763-341-348).
Trattoria da Carlo, hiding on its own little piazzetta between Via Corso Cavour and Piazza del Popolo, is a cozy spot with a charming interior and inviting tables outside. Animated and opinionated Carlo—a likeable loudmouth—holds court, chatting up his diners as much as he cooks, while his mama scuttles about taking orders, bussing dishes, and lovingly rolling her eyes at her son’s big personality. They put an unpretentious modern twist on traditional dishes such as pasta with guanciale (pork cheeks—like bacon), fennel seeds, and pecorino cheese (€9 pastas, €12-16 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-24:00, Vicolo del Popolo 1/9, tel. 0763-343-916).
Trattoria Antico Bucchero, elegant under a big white vault, makes for a nice memory with its candlelit ambience and delicious food (€8 pastas, €12 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00 except closed Wed Nov-March, seating indoors and on a peaceful square in summer, air-con, a half-block south of Corso Cavour, between Torre del Moro and Piazza della Repubblica at Via de Cartari 4, tel. 0763-341-725; Piero and Silvana, plus sons Fabio and Pericle).
Pizzeria & Ristorante Charlie is a local favorite. Its noisy dining hall and stony courtyard are popular with families and students for casual dinners of wood-fired €6-8 pizzas, big salads, homemade €7-9 pastas, or €12-15 secondi. In a quiet courtyard guarded by a medieval tower, it’s centrally located a block southwest of Piazza della Repubblica (Wed-Mon 19:00-12:30 & 14:30-23:00 except no midday closure in summer, closed Tue year-round, Via Loggia dei Mercanti 14, tel. 0763-344-766).
Enoteca al Duomo, to the left of the Duomo with pleasant outdoor seating, is run by Roman transplants Emilano and Ilaria. They serve rustic panini (€7 to eat in, €5 to go), wines by the glass, and a full menu of local dishes in a wine-bar atmosphere (€10 pastas and meal-size salads, €10-15 secondi, daily 10:00-24:00, closed Feb, Piazza del Duomo 13, tel. 0763-344-607).
(See “Orvieto” map, here.)
L’Oste del Re is a simple trattoria on Corso Cavour, with hearty sandwiches and focaccia to go. They serve a two-course lunch-of-the-day (a pasta and a secondo) for about €15, and €7.50 focaccia in the evenings (no cover, daily 11:00-15:30 & 19:00-22:00 but closed weekday evenings Nov-April, Corso Cavour 58, tel. 0763-343-846).
For lunch each day, Caffè Montanucci, along the main street, lays out an appetizing display of pastas (€7) and main courses (€10) behind the counter. Choose one (or mix—called a bis), find a seat in the modern interior, and they’ll bring it out on a tray. You’ll eat among newspaper-reading locals on lunch break. They also serve good caffè, simple sandwiches, and tasty sweets outside of lunch hours (no cover, daily 7:00-24:00, Corso Cavour 21, tel. 0763-341-261).
Panini and a Picnic: Scattered around town you’ll find many alimentari (grocers) selling cured meats, cheese, and other staples. If you’re feeling adventurous, order prosciutto or salami made from cinghiale (cheen-gee-AH-lay; wild boar), a surprisingly mild-tasting local favorite. They’re usually willing to make you a simple sandwich of bread, cold cuts, and/or cheese for a few euros.
Sample high-quality cold cuts or porchetta (roast pork with herbs) on a basic panino for around €3 at Roticiani, a third-generation butcher shop, where Paolo and his sister Fausta cure meats according to their grandfather’s recipes (Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00 & 17:00-20:00, closed Wed afternoon and all day Sun, on Corso Cavour halfway between Via Duomo and the funicular at Piazza S. Angelo 1, tel. 0763-341-776). Closer to the Via Duomo, Enoteca La Loggia has a nice selection of quality wine and edibles (Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:30-20:00, Sat 10:00-13:00 & 16:30-20:00, closed Sun, ask them for plastic cups and to uncork your bottle, Corso Cavour 129, tel. 0763-341-657).
Elsewhere along the Corso Cavour, you’ll find places selling fruit, vegetables, and other picnic items. The fortress/garden, to the right as you face the funicular, is a great spot to enjoy it.
Groceries: While the small alimentari might have what you need for a picnic, two slightly larger markets are tucked away two minutes from the Duomo: Metà (Mon-Sat 8:30-20:00, Sun 8:30-13:00, Corso Cavour 100, opposite Piazza Cesare Fracassini) and Despar (Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-13:00, just past recommended Trattoria la Grotta at Via Luca Signorelli 23).
Gelato: For dessert, try the deservedly popular gelateria Pasqualetti (daily 12:00-21:00, open later June-Aug, closed Dec-Feb, next to left transept of church, Piazza del Duomo 14; another branch is at Via Duomo 10, open daily 11:00-23:00, closes at 20:00 in winter).
(See “Orvieto” map, here.)
Orvieto has a charming, traffic-free, pedestrian-friendly vibe. To enjoy it, be sure to spend a little time savoring la dolce far niente while sitting at a café. There are inviting places all over town. The first three listed below are along Corso Cavour, the main strolling drag, and offer the very best people-watching.
Caffè ClanDestino is the town hotspot, with a youthful energy. It’s well-located, with plenty of streetside seating and endless little bites served with your drink (Corso Cavour 40). Café Barrique is less crowded, less trendy, and quieter, with nice outdoor tables and good free snacks with your drink (Corso Cavour 111). Caffè Montanucci, where locals go to read their newspaper, is the town’s venerable place for a coffee and pastry, but it has no on-street seating (Corso Cavour 21). Bar Palace, on Piazza del Popolo, is a sunny, relaxed perch facing a big square that’s generally quiet (except on market day), with free Wi-Fi and quality coffee and pastries.
Cafés Facing the Cathedral: Several cafés on Piazza del Duomo invite you to linger over a drink with a view of Orvieto’s amazing cathedral.
From Orvieto by Train to: Rome (roughly hourly, 1-1.5 hours), Florence (hourly, 2 hours, use Firenze S.M.N. train station—see here), Siena (12/day, 2.5 hours, change in Chiusi, all Florence-bound trains stop in Chiusi), Assisi (roughly hourly, 2-3 hours, 1 or 2 transfers), Milan (3/day direct, 5.5 hours; otherwise about hourly with a transfer in Florence, Bologna, or Rome, 4.75-5 hours). The train station’s Buffet della Stazione is surprisingly good if you need a quick focaccia sandwich or pizza picnic for the train ride.
Tip for Drivers: If you’re thinking of driving to Rome, consider stashing your car in Orvieto instead. You can easily park the car, safe and free, in the big lot below the Orvieto train station (for up to a week or more), and zip effortlessly into Rome by train (1.25 hours).
To reach Civita, you’ll first head for the adjacent town of Bagnoregio. From there, it’s a 30-minute walk or five-minute drive to Civita.
By Bus to Bagnoregio: The trip from Orvieto to Bagnoregio takes about 45 minutes (€2.20 one-way if bought in advance at a bar or tobacco shop, €7 one-way if purchased from driver—this includes a fine for not buying your ticket in advance).
Here are likely departure times (but confirm at the TI) from Orvieto’s Piazza Cahen on the blue Cotral bus, Monday to Saturday only (no buses on Sundays or holidays): 6:20, *7:25, 7:50, 12:45, 13:55, 15:45, and 18:20. Departures marked with an asterisk (*) run only during the school year (roughly Sept-June). It’s nice to get up early, take the 7:50 bus, and see Civita in the cool morning calm. If you take the 12:45 bus, you can make the last (17:25) bus back, but your time in Civita may feel a little rushed.
Buy your ticket from Silvia at the tobacco shop at Corso Cavour 306, a block up from the funicular (daily 8:00-13:00 & 16:00-20:00)—otherwise you’ll pay the premium ticket price on board the bus. If you’ll be returning to Orvieto by bus, it’s simpler to get a return ticket now rather than in Bagnoregio.
Officially, the bus stop is at Piazza Cahen’s far left end (as you face the funicular, it’s across the street from the bus section of the parking lot; see map on here). The schedule is posted at the stop—look for the A.co.tra.l. Capolinea sign. Buses actually stop in the bus spaces in the parking lot (yellow lines). The bus you want says Bagnoregio in the window. You’ll see lots of buses marked Umbria Mobilità stopping in front of the funicular; because Civita is in Lazio, it’s served by a different bus company (Cotral).
Buses departing Piazza Cahen stop five minutes later at Orvieto’s train station—to catch the bus there, wait to the left of the funicular station (as you’re facing it); schedule and tickets are available in the tobacco shop/bar in the train station. For more information, call 06-7205-7205 or 800-174-471 (press 7 for English), or see www.cotralspa.it (click “Orari” in the left-hand menu, then “Bagnoregio” in the alphabetical list—Italian only).
To reach Civita from Bagnoregio, follow the directions under “Arrival in Bagnoregio, near Civita,” later.
By Car to Bagnoregio and Civita: Orvieto overlooks the autostrada (and has its own exit). From the Orvieto exit, the shortest way to Civita is to turn left (below Orvieto), and then simply follow the signs to Lubriano and Bagnoregio.
A more winding and scenic route takes about 10-15 minutes longer: From the freeway, pass under hill-capping Orvieto (on your right, signs to Lago di Bolsena, on Viale I Maggio), then take the first left (direction: Bagnoregio), winding up past great Orvieto views and the recommended Tenuta Le Velette and Custodi wineries (reservations required) en route to Canale, and through farms and fields of giant shredded wheat to Bagnoregio.
Either way, just before Bagnoregio, follow the signs left to Lubriano, head into that village, turn right as you enter town, and pull into the first little square by the yellow church (on the left) for a breathtaking view of Civita. You’ll find an even better view farther inside the town, from the tiny square at the next church (San Giovanni Battista). Then return to the Bagnoregio road.
Drive through the town of Bagnoregio (following yellow Civita signs) and park in the lot at the base of the steep pedestrian bridge. You pay for parking at the ticket machine next to the bridge entrance (€2/first hour, €1/each additional hour, maximum €6/day, free 20:00-8:00, public WC at parking lot). Warning: The time limit on your parking ticket is strictly enforced. Finally, buy your entrance ticket (see “Helpful Hints,” later) and walk across the bridge to the traffic-free, 2,500-year-old canyon-swamped pinnacle town of Civita di Bagnoregio.
If the parking lot by the bridge is full, you can park at the belvedere overlook (above the lot) and take the stairs down to the bridge.
By Taxi or Shared Taxi: If you can share the cost, a taxi from Orvieto to Civita is perhaps the best deal of all. Giulio taxi service can take a group of up to four in a car (€80) or eight in a minibus (€100) to the base of the pedestrian bridge at Civita, wait two hours, and then bring you back to Orvieto (see here for more details).
Perched on a pinnacle in a grand canyon, the traffic-free village of Civita di Bagnoregio is Italy’s ultimate hill town. In the last decade, the old, self-sufficient Civita (chee-VEE-tah) has died—the last of its lifelong residents have passed on, and the only work here is in serving visitors. But relatives and newcomers are moving in and revitalizing the village, and it remains an amazing place to visit. (It’s even become popular as a backdrop for movies, soap operas, and advertising campaigns.) Civita’s only connection to the world and the town of Bagnoregio is a long pedestrian bridge.
Civita’s history goes back to Etruscan and ancient Roman times. In the early Middle Ages, Bagnoregio was a suburb of Civita, which had a population of about 4,000. Later, Bagnoregio surpassed Civita in size—especially following a 1695 earthquake, after which many residents fled Civita to live in Bagnoregio, fearing their houses would be shaken off the edge into the valley below. You’ll notice Bagnoregio is dominated by Renaissance-style buildings while, architecturally, Civita remains stuck in the Middle Ages.
While Bagnoregio lacks the pinnacle-town romance of Civita, it’s actually a healthy, vibrant community (unlike Civita, the suburb now nicknamed “the dead city”). In Bagnoregio, get a haircut, sip a coffee on the square, and walk down to the old laundry (ask, “Dov’è la lavanderia vecchia?”).
By Bus: If you’re taking the bus from Orvieto, you’ll get off at the bus stop in Bagnoregio. Look at the posted bus schedule and write down the return times to Orvieto, or check with the driver. If you have heavy bags, leave them with Mauro—see “Helpful Hints,” later.
Once in Bagnoregio, you have to get to Civita, which sits at the opposite end of town, about a mile away from the bus stop. Whether you cover this mile by foot, bus, or car, you’ll have another fairly steep 10-minute walk from the base of Civita’s bridge up to its main square.
Walking is the simplest way to get from the Bagnoregio bus stop to the base of Civita’s bridge (20-30 minutes, slightly uphill at first, but downhill overall). The walk through Bagnoregio also offers a delightful look at a workaday Italian town. Take the road going uphill, Via Garibaldi (overlooking the big parking lot). Once on the road, take the first right, and then an immediate left, to cut over onto the main drag, Via Roma. Follow this straight out to the belvedere for a superb viewpoint. From there, backtrack a few steps (staircase at end of viewpoint is a dead end) and take the stairs down to the road leading to the bridge.
There is also a shuttle bus to the base of the bridge to Civita, with a stop just 20 yards from where the bus from Orvieto drops you (in Piazzale Battaglini). However, by this stop you’ll see large signs in English saying that you can board the bus only at another stop, which is halfway along the walking route to Civita (Piazza Sant’Agostino). Locals say the reason for this is to make visitors more likely to patronize the stores along the main street in Bagnoregio. Unless it’s pouring rain, skip the shuttle bus, but do take advantage of the shuttle back uphill from the Civita bridge. On the return, the shuttle brings you all the way back to the Orvieto-bound bus stop. Note the return times on the schedule posted by the base of the bridge—if you forget, ask at the recommended Trattoria Antico Forno (usually 1-2/hour, but no buses 13:15-15:30, 5-minute ride, €0.70 one-way, €1 round-trip, pay driver, first bus runs at about 7:30, last at 18:15, no buses on Sun Oct-March).
By Car: Drive through Bagnoregio and park under the bridge at the base of Civita (for more driving tips, see “Orvieto Connections,” earlier).
Admission Charge: Civita charges €1.50 to enter the old town (waived for overnight guests). The revenue helps with its extensive maintenance expenses. Buy your ticket from the brown kiosk, just before the bridge, on the left. On summer weekends, tours may be offered from here—ask.
Market Day: A lively market fills the Bagnoregio bus-station parking lot each Monday.
Baggage Storage: While there’s no official baggage-check service in Bagnoregio, I’ve arranged with Mauro Laurenti, who runs the Bar/Enoteca/Caffè Gianfu and Cinema Alberto Sordi, to let you leave your bags there (€1/bag, Thu-Tue 6:00-13:00 & 13:30-24:00, closed Wed, tel. 0761-792-580). As you get off the bus, go back 50 yards or so in the direction that the Orvieto bus just came from, and go right around corner.
Food near Bagnoregio Bus Stop: Across the street from Mauro’s bar/cinema and baggage storage is L’Arte del Pane, with fresh pizza by the slice (Via Matteotti 5). Thirty yards down the road, Mauro runs a small eatery, Il Ripi&Go (Via Giacomo Matteotti 35). On the other side of the old-town gate (Porta Albana), in the roundabout, is a small grocery store.
Orvieto Bus Tickets: To save money on bus fare to Orvieto, buy a ticket before boarding from the newsstand across from the gas station near the Bagnoregio bus stop—look for white awning at #47 (€2.20 one-way in advance; €7 from driver).
(See “Civita di Bagnoregio” map, here.)
Civita was once connected to Bagnoregio, before the saddle between the separate towns eroded away. Photographs around town show the old donkey path, the original bridge. It was bombed in World War II and replaced in 1966 with the new footbridge that you’re climbing today.
• Entering the town, you’ll pass through Porta Santa Maria, a 12th-century Romanesque arch. This stone passageway was cut by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago, when this town was a stop on an ancient trading route. Inside the archway, you enter a garden of stones. Stand in the little square—the town’s antechamber—facing the Bar La Piazzetta. To your right are the remains of a...
The wooden door and windows (above the door) lead only to thin air. They were part of the facade of one of five palaces that once graced Civita. Much of the palace fell into the valley, riding a chunk of the ever-eroding rock pinnacle. Today, the door leads to a remaining section of the palace—complete with Civita’s first hot tub, as it was once owned by the “Marchesa,” a countess who married into Italy’s biggest industrialist family.
• A few steps uphill, farther into town (on your left, beyond the Bottega souvenir store), notice the two shed-like buildings.
In the nearer building (covered with ivy), you’ll see the town’s old laundry, which dates from just after World War II, when water was finally piped into the town. Until a few years ago, this was a lively village gossip center. Now, locals park their mopeds here. Just behind that is another stone shed, which houses a poorly marked and less-than-pristine WC.
• The main square is just a few steps farther along, but we’ll take the scenic circular route to get there, detouring around to the right. Belly up to the...
Lean over the banister and listen to the sounds of the birds and the bees. Survey old family farms, noticing how evenly they’re spaced. Historically, each one owned just enough land to stay in business. Turn left along the belvedere and walk a few steps to the site of the long-gone home of Civita’s one famous son, St. Bonaventure, known as the “second founder of the Franciscans” (look for the small plaque on the wall).
• From here, a lane leads past delightful old homes and gardens, and then to...
The town church faces Civita’s main piazza. Grab a stone seat along the biggest building fronting the square (or a drink at Peppone’s bar) and observe the scene. They say that in a big city you can see a lot, but in a small town like this you can feel a lot. The generous bench is built into the long side of the square, reminding me of how, when I first discovered Civita back in the 1970s and 1980s, the town’s old folks would gather here every night. The piazza has been integral to Italian culture since ancient Roman times. While Civita is humble today, imagine the town’s former wealth, when mansions of the leading families faced this square, along with the former city hall (opposite the church, to your left). The town’s history includes a devastating earthquake in 1695. Notice how stone walls were reinforced with thick bases, and how old stones and marble slabs were recycled and built into walls.
Here in the town square, you’ll find Bar Da Peppone (open daily, local wines and microbrews, inviting fire in the winter) and two restaurants. There are wild donkey races on the first Sunday of June and the second Sunday of September. At Christmastime, a living Nativity scene is enacted in this square, and if you’re visiting at the end of July or beginning of August, you might catch a play here. The pillars that stand like giants’ bar stools are ancient Etruscan. The church, with its campanile (bell tower), marks the spot where an Etruscan temple, and then a Roman temple, once stood. Across from Peppone’s, on the side of the former city hall, is a small, square stone counter. Old-timers remember when this was a meat shop, and how one day a week the counter was stacked with fish for sale.
The humble Geological Museum, next to Peppone’s, tells the story of how erosion is constantly shaping the surrounding “Bad Lands” valley, how landslides have shaped (and continue to threaten) Civita, and how the town plans to stabilize things (€3, June-Sept Tue-Sun 9:30-13:00 & 14:00-18:30, closed Mon, Fri-Sun only off-season, closed Jan-Feb, mobile 328-665-7205).
• Now step inside...
A cathedral until 1699, the church houses records of about 60 bishops that date back to the seventh century (church open daily 10:00-13:00 & 15:00-17:00, often closed Feb). Inside you’ll see Romanesque columns and arches with faint Renaissance frescoes peeking through Baroque-era whitewash. The central altar is built upon the relics of the Roman martyr St. Victoria, who once was the patron saint of the town. St. Marlonbrando served as a bishop here in the ninth century; an altar dedicated to him is on the right. The fine crucifix over this altar, carved out of pear wood in the 15th century, is from the school of Donatello. It’s remarkably expressive and greatly venerated by locals. Jesus’ gaze is almost haunting. Some say his appearance changes based on what angle you view him from: looking alive from the front, in agony from the left, and dead from the right. Regardless, his eyes follow you from side to side. On Good Friday, this crucifix goes out and is the focus of the midnight procession.
On the left side, midway up the nave above an altar, is an intimate fresco of the Madonna of the Earthquake, given this name because—in the great shake of 1695—the whitewash fell off and revealed this tender fresco of Mary and her child. (During the Baroque era, a white-and-bright interior was in vogue, and churches such as these—which were covered with precious and historic frescoes—were simply whitewashed over. Look around to see examples.) On the same wall—just toward the front from the Madonna—find the faded portrait of Santa Apollonia, the patron saint of your teeth; notice the scary-looking pincers.
• From the square, you can follow...
A short walk takes you from the church to the end of the town. Along the way, you’ll pass a couple of little eateries (described later, under “Eating in Civita”), olive presses, gardens, a rustic town museum, and valley views. The rock below Civita is honeycombed with ancient tunnels, caverns (housing olive presses), cellars (for keeping wine at a constant temperature all year), and cisterns (for collecting rainwater, since there was no well in town). Many date from Etruscan times.
Wherever you choose to eat (or just grab a bruschetta snack), be sure to take advantage of the opportunity to poke around—every place has a historic cellar. At the trendy Alma Civita, notice the damaged house facing the main street—broken since the 1695 earthquake and scarred to this day. Just beyond, the rustic Antico Frantoio Bruschetteria serves bruschetta in an amazing old space. Whether or not you buy food, venture into their back room to see an interesting collection of old olive presses (if you’re not eating here, a €1 donation is requested). The huge olive press in the entry is about 1,500 years old. Until the 1960s, blindfolded donkeys trudged in the circle here, crushing olives and creating paste that filled the circular filters and was put into a second press. Notice the 2,500-year-old sarcophagus niche. The hole in the floor (with the glass top) was a garbage hole. In ancient times, residents would toss their jewels down when under attack; excavations uncovered a windfall of treasures.
In front is the well head of an ancient cistern—designed to collect rainwater from neighboring rooftops—carved out of tufo and covered with clay to be waterproof.
• Across the street and down a tiny lane, find...
This is the closest thing the town has to a history museum. The humble collection is the brainchild of Felice, the old farmer who’s hung black-and-white photos, farm tools, olive presses, and local artifacts in a series of old caves. Climb down to the “warm blood machine” (another donkey-powered grinding wheel) and a viewpoint and to see rooms where a mill worker lived until the 1930s. Felice wants to give visitors a feeling for life in Civita when its traditional economy was strong (€1, daily 10:00-19:00, until 17:00 in winter, some English explanations).
• Another few steps along the main street take you to...
Here the road is literally cut out of the stone, with a dramatic view of the Bad Lands opening up. Pop in to the cute “Garden of Poets” (immediately on the left just outside town, with the tiny local crafts shop) to savor the view. Then, look back up at the end of town and ponder the precarious future of Civita. There’s a certain stillness here, far from the modern world and high above the valley.
Continue along the path a few steps toward the valley below the town, and you come to some shallow caves used as stables until a few years ago. The third cave, cut deeper into the rock, with a barred door, is the Chapel of the Incarcerated (Cappella del Carcere). In Etruscan times, the chapel—with a painted tile depicting the Madonna and child—may have been a tomb, and in medieval times, it was used as a jail (which collapsed in 1695).
Although it’s closed to the public now, an Etruscan tunnel just beyond the Chapel of the Incarcerated cuts completely through the hill. Tall enough for a woman with a jug on her head to pass through, it may have served as a shortcut to the river below. It was widened in the 1930s so that farmers could get between their scattered fields more easily. Later, it served as a refuge for frightened villagers who huddled here during WWII bombing raids.
• Hike back into town. Make a point to take some time to explore the peaceful back lanes before returning to the modern world.
Civita has nine B&B rooms up for grabs. Bagnoregio has larger lodgings, and there are plenty of agriturismi nearby; otherwise, there’s always Orvieto. Off-season, when Civita and Bagnoregio are deadly quiet—and cold—I’d side-trip in from Orvieto rather than spend the night here. Those staying overnight in Civita don’t pay the admission charge and may be able to get a discount on parking at the base of the bridge—ask when you reserve.
$$$ Alma Civita is a classic old stone house that was recently renovated by a sister-and-brother team, Alessandra and Maurizio (hence the name: Al-Ma). These are Civita’s two most comfortable, modern, and warmly run rooms (Db-€120, no Internet access, tel. 0761-792-415, mobile 347-449-8892, www.almacivita.com, prenotazione@almacivita.com). They also have a restaurant (listed later).
$$$ Locanda della Buona Ventura rents four overpriced rooms with tiny bathrooms, up narrow stairs, decorated in medieval rustic-chic, and overlooking Civita’s piazza. You’re not likely to see the owner—the La Cisterna Etrusca shop across the square functions as the reception (Db-€120, or €100 in Oct-May, extra bed-€20, skimpy breakfast at nearby restaurant, no Internet access, tel. 0761-792-025, mobile 347-627-5628, www.locandabuonaventura.it, info@locandabuonaventura.it).
$ Civita B&B, run by gregarious Franco Sala, has three little rooms above Trattoria Antico Forno, each overlooking Civita’s main square. Two are doubles with private bath. The third is a triple (with one double and one kid-size bed), which has its own bathroom across the hall (S-€50, Sb-€55, D-€70, Db-€75, T-€95, continental breakfast, Wi-Fi, Piazza del Duomo Vecchio, tel. 076-176-0016, mobile 347-611-5426, www.civitadibagnoregio.it, fsala@pelagus.it).
$$ Romantica Pucci B&B is a haven for city-weary travelers. Its five spacious rooms are indeed romantic, with canopied beds and flowing veils (Db-€80, extra bed-€25, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free parking, Piazza Cavour 1, tel. 0761-792-121, www.hotelromanticapucci.it, hotelromanticapucci@gmail.com). It’s just above the public parking lot you see when you arrive in Bagnoregio: From the bus stop, take Via Garibaldi uphill above the parking lot, and then turn right, before the Forno sign onto Via Roma. The B&B is just to the left.
$ Hotel Divino Amore has 23 bright, modern rooms, four with perfect views of a miniature Civita. These view rooms, and the ones with air-conditioning, cost no extra—but are booked first (Sb-€50, Db-€70, Tb-€80, Qb-€90, air-con in seven rooms, Wi-Fi in lobby, closed Jan-March, Via Fidanza 25-27, tel. 076-178-0882, mobile 329-344-8950, www.hoteldivinoamore.com, info@hoteldivinoamore.com). From the bus stop, passing the Forno sign where the street becomes Via Fidanza, follow Via Garibaldi uphill above the parking lot for 200 yards.
(See “Civita di Bagnoregio” map, here.)
Osteria Al Forno di Agnese is a delightful spot where Manuela and her friends serve visitors simple yet delicious meals on a covered patio just off Civita’s main square (nice €7 salads, €9 pastas—including gluten-free options, €7-12 secondi, good selection of local wines, opens daily at 12:00 for lunch, June-Sept also at 19:00 for dinner, closed Tue in winter and sometimes in bad weather, tel. 0761-792-571, mobile 340-1259-721).
Trattoria Antico Forno serves up rustic dishes, homemade pasta, and salads at affordable prices. Try their homemade pasta with truffles (€7 pastas, €7-12 secondi, €15 fixed-price meal, daily for lunch 12:30-15:30 and dinner 19:00-22:00, on main square, also rents rooms—see Civita B&B listing earlier, tel. 076-176-0016, Franco, daughter Elisabetta, and assistants Nina and Fiorella).
Trattoria La Cantina de Arianna is a family affair, with a busy open fire specializing in grilled meat and wonderful bruschetta. It’s run by Arianna, her sister Antonella, and their parents, Rossana and Antonio. After eating, wander down to their cellar, where you’ll see traditional winemaking gear and provisions for rolling huge kegs up the stairs. Tap on the kegs in the bottom level to see which are full (€10 pastas, €8-14 secondi, daily 11:00-16:30, tel. 0761-793-270).
Alma Civita, a lunch-only place, feels like a fresh, new take on old Civita. It’s owned by two of its longtime residents: Alessandra (an architect) and her brother Maurizio (who runs the restaurant). Choose from one of three seating areas: outside on a stony lane, in the modern and trendy-feeling main-floor dining room, or in the equally modern but atmospheric cellar. Even deeper is an old Etruscan tomb that’s now a wine cellar (€4 bruschette and antipasti, €7 pastas, €7-10 secondi, May-Oct Wed-Mon 12:00-16:00, closed Tue, Nov-April Fri-Sun only, tel. 0761-792-415).
Antico Frantoio Bruschetteria, the last place in town, is a rustic, super-atmospheric spot for a bite to eat. The specialty here: delicious bruschetta toasted over hot coals. Peruse the menu, choose your toppings (chopped tomato is super), and get a glass of wine for a fun, affordable snack or meal (roughly 10:00-18:00 in summer, off-season weekends only 10:00-17:00, mobile 328-689-9375, Fabrizio).
Hostaria del Ponte is a more serious restaurant than anything in Civita itself. It offers creative and traditional cuisine with a great view terrace at the parking lot at the base of the bridge to Civita. Big space heaters make it comfortable to enjoy the wonderful view as you dine from their rooftop terrace, even in spring and fall (€9 pastas, €12-13 secondi, reservations often essential, Tue-Sun 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-21:30, closed Mon, Nov-April also closed Sun eve, tel. 076-179-3565, Lorena).
The recommended Romantica Pucci B&B offers a small restaurant with tables in its private garden (€25-30 meals, closed Mon, see contact details earlier).
From Bagnoregio to Orvieto: Public Cotral buses (45 minutes, €2.20 one-way if purchased in advance, €7 one-way from driver) connect Bagnoregio to Orvieto. Departures from Bagnoregio—Monday to Saturday only (no buses on Sunday or holidays)—are likely to be at the following times (but confirm): 5:30, *6:35, 6:50, 9:55, 10:25, 13:00, *13:35, 14:25, and 17:25. Departures marked with an asterisk (*) operate only during the school year (roughly Sept-June). For more information, call 06-7205-7205 or 800-174-471 (press 7 for English), or see www.cotralspa.it (click “Orari” in the left-hand menu, then “Bagnoregio” in the alphabetical list—Italian only). For info on coming from Orvieto, see “Orvieto Connections” (here).
Remember to save money by buying your ticket in Bagnoregio before boarding the bus—purchase one from the newsstand near the bus stop, across from the gas station. Better yet, if you’re side-tripping from Orvieto, buy two tickets in Orvieto so you already have one when you’re ready to come back.
From Bagnoregio to Points South: Cotral buses also run to Viterbo, which has a good train connection to Rome (buses go weekdays at 5:10, 6:30, 7:15, 7:40, 10:00, 13:00, 13:45, and 14:50; less frequent Sat-Sun, 35 minutes, see phone number and website earlier).