Using Your American Smartphone in Europe
Landline Telephones and Internet Cafés
Map: Italy’s Public Transportation
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for purchases, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. To study ahead and round out your knowledge, check out “Resources” for a summary of recommended books and films.
The Italian national tourist offices in the US are a wealth of information. Before your trip, scan their website (www.italia.it) or contact the nearest branch to briefly describe your trip and request information. You can download many brochures free of charge or call to order a free, general Italy guide. If you have a specific problem, they’re a good source of sympathy.
In New York: Tel. 212/245-5618, newyork@enit.it
In Chicago: Tel. 312/644-0996, chicago@enit.it
In Los Angeles: Tel. 310/820-1898, losangeles@enit.it
In Italy, your best first stop is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book, and marked i, turismo, and APT in Italy). TIs are good places to get a city map and information on public transit (including bus and train schedules), walking tours, special events, and nightlife. While Italian TIs are about half as helpful as those in other countries, their information is twice as important. Prepare a list of questions and a proposed plan to double-check. Many TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so try to pick up maps for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip. If you’re arriving in town after the TI closes, call ahead or pick up a map in a neighboring town. Since Italy is ever-changing, ask the local TI for a current list of the city’s sights, hours, and prices.
Be wary of the travel agencies or special information services that masquerade as TIs but serve fancy hotels and tour companies. They’re in the business of selling things you don’t need.
Emergency and Medical Help: In Italy, dial 113 for English-speaking police help. To summon an ambulance, call 118. If you get sick, do as the Italians do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know of the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to your embassy (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help. Precautionary measures can minimize the effects of loss—back up your digital photos and other files frequently.
More Help: A service of the Italian government, EasyItalia, offers English-language tourist information, emergency assistance, and help with everything from flight cancellations to car-rental trouble (call toll-free 800-000-039 from a land line or pay phone, otherwise call 039-039-039, phone answered daily 9:00-22:00; or use their online form at www.easy-italia.com for a response within 48 hours).
Avoiding Theft and Scams: Although violent crime is rare in Italy, petty theft is rampant in the large cities. With sweet-talking con artists meeting you at the station, well-dressed pickpockets on buses, and thieving gangs of children roving ancient sites, tourists face a gauntlet of rip-offs. Although it’s not as bad as it was a few years ago, and pickpockets don’t want to hurt you—they usually just want your money—green or sloppy tourists will be scammed.
Thieves strike when you’re distracted. Don’t trust kind strangers. Keep nothing important in your pockets. Be most on guard while boarding and leaving buses and subways. Thieves crowd the door, then stop and turn while others crowd and push from behind. You’ll find less crowding and commotion—and less risk—waiting for the end cars of a subway rather than the middle cars. The sneakiest thieves pretend to be well-dressed businessmen (generally with something in their hands) or tourists wearing fanny packs and toting cameras and even Rick Steves guidebooks.
Scams abound: Always be clear about what paper money you’re giving someone, demand clear and itemized bills, and count your change. Don’t give your wallet to self-proclaimed “police” who stop you on the street, warn you about counterfeit (or drug) money, and ask to see your cash. If a bank machine eats your ATM card, see if there’s a thin plastic insert with a tongue hanging out that thieves use to extract it.
If you know what to look out for, fast-fingered moms with babies and gangs of children picking the pockets and handbags of naive tourists are not a threat, but an interesting, albeit sad, spectacle. Pickpockets troll through the tourist crowds around major sights and at train and Metro stations. Watch them target tourists who are overloaded with bags or distracted with a video camera. The kids look like beggars and hold up newspapers or cardboard signs to confuse their victims. They scram like stray cats if you’re on to them.
This all sounds intimidating, and perhaps I’m overstating the dangers. Don’t be scared—just be aware and be smart, and you’ll be fine.
Time Zones: Italy, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, see www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: Traditionally, Italy used the siesta plan. People worked from 9:00 to 13:00 and from 15:30 to 19:00, Monday through Saturday. But many businesses have now adopted the government’s recommended 8:00 to 14:00 workday (although in tourist areas, shops are open longer). Still, expect small towns and villages to be more or less shut tight during the midafternoon. Stores are also usually closed on Sunday, and often on Monday, as well as for a couple of weeks around August 15. Banking hours are generally Monday through Friday from 8:30 to 13:30 and 15:30 to 16:30, but can vary wildly.
Saturdays are virtually weekdays, with earlier closing hours. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open, while shops and banks are closed, public transportation options are fewer (for example, no bus service to or from the smaller hill towns), and there’s no rush hour. Rowdy evenings are rare on Sundays.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe.
Discounts: Discounts are not listed in this book. However, many sights offer discounts for youths (up to age 18), students (with proper identification cards, www.isic.org), families, seniors (loosely defined as retirees or those willing to call themselves a senior), and groups of 10 or more. Always ask. Italy’s national museums generally offer free admission to children under 18, but some discounts are available only for citizens of the European Union (EU).
Tobacco Shops: Tobacco shops (known as tabacchi, often indicated with a big T sign) are ubiquitous across Italy as handy places to pay for street parking, and to buy postage or tickets for city buses and subways.
Online Translation Tip: You can use Google’s Chrome browser (available free at www.google.com/chrome) to instantly translate websites. With one click, the page appears in (very rough) English translation. You can also paste the URL of the site into the translation window at www.google.com/translate.
This section offers advice on how to pay for purchases on your trip (including getting cash from ATMs and paying with plastic), dealing with lost or stolen cards, VAT (sales tax) refunds, and tipping.
Bring both a credit card and a debit card. You’ll use the debit card at cash machines (ATMs) to withdraw local cash for most purchases, and the credit card to pay for larger items. Some travelers carry a third card as a backup, in case one gets demagnetized or eaten by a temperamental machine.
For an emergency stash, bring several hundred dollars in hard cash in $20 bills. If you have to exchange the bills, go to a bank; avoid using currency exchange booths because of their lousy rates and/or outrageous fees.
Cash is just as desirable in Europe as it is at home. Small businesses (many accommodations, mom-and-pop cafés, shops, etc.) prefer that you pay your bills with cash. Some vendors will charge you extra for using a credit card, and many restaurants and some sights won’t take credit cards at all. Cash is the best—and sometimes only—way to pay for cheap food, bus fare, taxis, and local guides.
Throughout Europe, ATMs are the standard way for travelers to get cash.
To withdraw money from an ATM (known as a bancomat), you’ll need a debit card (ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo for maximum usability), plus a PIN code. Know your PIN code in numbers; there are only numbers—no letters—on European keypads. For increased security, shield the keypad when entering your PIN code, and don’t use an ATM if anything on the front of the machine looks loose or damaged (a sign that someone may have attached a skimming device to capture account information).
Whenever possible, use ATMs located outside banks—a thief is less likely to target a cash machine near surveillance cameras, and if your card is munched by a machine, you can go inside for help. Stay away from independent ATMs such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Cardpoint, and Cashzone, which charge huge commissions, have terrible exchange rates, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (described at the end of “Credit and Debit Cards,” next).
Although you can use a credit card for an ATM transaction, it only makes sense in an emergency, because it’s considered a cash advance (borrowed at a high interest rate) rather than a withdrawal.
While traveling, if you need to access your accounts online, be sure to use a secure connection (see here).
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket.
For purchases, Visa and MasterCard are more commonly accepted than American Express. Just like at home, credit or debit cards work easily at larger hotels, restaurants, and shops. I typically use my debit card to withdraw cash to pay for most purchases. I use my credit card only in a few specific situations: to book hotel reservations by phone, to cover major expenses (such as car rentals, plane tickets, and long hotel stays), and to pay for things near the end of my trip (to avoid another visit to the ATM). While you could use a debit card to make most large purchases, using a credit card offers a greater degree of fraud protection (because debit cards draw funds directly from your account).
Ask Your Credit- or Debit-Card Company: Before your trip, contact the company that issued your debit or credit cards.
• Confirm your card will work overseas, and alert them that you’ll be using it in Europe; otherwise, they may deny transactions if they perceive unusual spending patterns.
• Ask for the specifics on transaction fees. When you use your credit or debit card—either for purchases or ATM withdrawals—you’ll typically be charged additional “international transaction” fees of up to 3 percent (1 percent is normal) plus $5 per transaction. If your card’s fees seem high, consider getting a different card just for your trip: Capital One (www.capitalone.com) and most credit unions have low-to-no international fees.
• If you plan to withdraw cash from ATMs, confirm your daily withdrawal limit, and, if necessary, ask your bank to adjust it. Some travelers prefer a high limit that allows them to take out more cash at each ATM stop (saving on bank fees), while others prefer to set a lower limit in case their card is stolen. Note that foreign banks also set maximum withdrawal amounts for their ATMs. Also, remember that you’re withdrawing euros, not dollars—so if your daily limit is $300, withdraw just €200. Many frustrated travelers walk away from ATMs thinking their cards have been rejected, when actually they were asking for more cash in euros than their daily limit allowed.
• Get your bank’s emergency phone number in the US (but not its 800 number, which isn’t accessible from overseas) to call collect if you have a problem.
• Ask for your credit card’s PIN in case you need to make an emergency cash withdrawal or encounter Europe’s “chip-and-PIN” system (described next); the bank won’t tell you your PIN over the phone, so allow time for it to be mailed to you.
Chip and PIN: Europeans are increasingly using chip-and-PIN cards, which are embedded with an electronic security chip (in addition to the magnetic stripe found on American-style cards). To make a purchase with a chip-and-PIN card, the cardholder inserts the card into a slot in the payment machine, then enters a PIN (like using a debit card in the US) while the card stays in the slot. The chip inside the card authorizes the transaction; the cardholder doesn’t sign a receipt. Your American-style card might not work at payment machines using this system, such as those at train and subway stations, toll roads, parking garages, luggage lockers, bike-rental kiosks, and self-serve gas pumps.
If you have problems using your American card in a chip-and-PIN machine, here are some suggestions: For either a debit card or a credit card, try entering that card’s PIN when prompted. (Note that your credit-card PIN may not be the same as your debit-card PIN; you’ll need to ask your bank for your credit-card PIN.) If your cards still don’t work, look for a machine that takes cash, seek out a clerk who might be able to process the transaction manually, or ask a local if you can pay them cash to run the transaction on their card.
And don’t panic. Many travelers who use only magnetic-stripe cards don’t run into problems. Still, it pays to carry plenty of euros; remember, you can always use an ATM to withdraw cash with your magnetic-stripe debit card.
If you’re still concerned, you can apply for a chip card in the US (though I think it’s overkill). One option is the no-annual-fee GlobeTrek Visa, offered by Andrews Federal Credit Union in Maryland (open to all US residents; see www.andrewsfcu.org). In the future, chip cards should become standard issue in the US: Visa and MasterCard have asked US banks and merchants to use chip-based cards by late 2015.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay even more in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. Independent ATMs (such as Travelex and Moneybox) may try to confuse customers by presenting DCC in misleading terms. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for euros.” Always choose the local currency in these situations.
If you lose your credit, debit, or ATM card, you can stop people from using your card by reporting the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). In Italy, to make a collect call to the US, dial 800-172-444. Press zero or stay on the line for an English-speaking operator. European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can also be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard.
Providing the following information will allow for a quicker cancellation of your missing card: full card number, whether you are the primary or secondary cardholder, the cardholder’s name exactly as printed on the card, billing address, home phone number, circumstances of the loss or theft, and identification verification (your birth date, your mother’s maiden name, or your Social Security number—memorize this, don’t carry a copy). If you are the secondary cardholder, you’ll also need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details. You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for any unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping in Italy isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: In Italy, a service charge (servizio) is usually built into your bill, so the total you pay already includes a basic tip. It’s up to you whether to tip beyond this. For details on restaurant tipping, see here.
Taxis: To tip the cabbie, round up. For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (to pay a €4.50 fare, give €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the service industry does a super job for you, a small tip (the equivalent of a euro or two) is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip for a service, ask your hotelier or the TI.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Italian souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of about 22 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €155 (about $200) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount.
Getting your refund is usually straightforward and, if you buy a substantial amount of souvenirs, well worth the hassle. If you’re lucky, the merchant will subtract the tax when you make your purchase. (This is more likely to occur if the store ships the goods to your home.) Otherwise, you’ll need to:
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document. You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour early before you need to check in for your flight, to give you time to find the local customs office—and to stand in line. Keep your purchases readily available for viewing by the customs agent (ideally in your carry-on bag—don’t make the mistake of checking the bag with your purchases before you’ve seen the agent). You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your new Italian leather shoes, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You’ll need to return your stamped document to the retailer or its representative. Many merchants work with services, such as Global Blue or Premier Tax Free, that have offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, often strategically located near a duty-free shop). These services, which extract a 4 percent fee, can refund your money immediately in cash or credit your card (within two billing cycles). If the retailer handles VAT refunds directly, it’s up to you to contact the merchant for your refund. You can mail the documents from home or, more quickly, from your point of departure (using an envelope you’ve prepared in advance or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You are allowed to take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 30 days. You can also bring in duty-free a liter of alcohol. As for food, you can take home many processed and packaged foods: vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed. However, canned meat is allowed if it doesn’t contain any beef, veal, lamb, or mutton. Any liquid-containing foods must be packed in checked luggage, a potential recipe for disaster. To check customs rules and duty rates, visit www.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Italy’s finest museums meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at highlights and opening hours, see the “At a Glance” sidebars for each major city (Venice, Milan, Florence, Siena, and Rome) and the Cinque Terre. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites. Or call sights in the morning and ask: “Are you open today?” (“Aperto oggi?”; ah-PER-toh OH-jee) and “What time do you close?” (“A che ora chiuso?”; ah kay OH-rah kee-OO-zoh). I’ve included telephone numbers for this purpose.
Use the suggestions in this book to avoid waiting in line to buy tickets or enter sights. Sometimes you can make reservations for an entry time (for example, at Florence’s Uffizi Gallery or Rome’s Vatican Museum). Some cities offer museum passes for admission to several museums (e.g., Roma Pass and Firenze Card) that let you skip ticket-buying lines. At some popular places (such as Rome’s Colosseum or Venice’s Doge’s Palace), you can get in more quickly by buying your ticket or pass at a less-crowded sight (Rome’s Palatine Hill or Venice’s Correr Museum). Booking a guided tour can help you avoid lines at many popular sights. Admission is free at state museums on the first Sunday of the month—expect crowds.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Labor Day (May 1), Christmas, and New Year’s. A list of holidays is on here; check museum websites for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season, many museums have shorter hours.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds.
Study up. To get the most out of the sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: Be warned that you may not be allowed to enter if you arrive 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Some important sights have a security check, where you must open your bag or send it through a metal detector. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed, but some sights ban photos altogether.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. To adapt, pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item. Say the title or artist’s name, or point to the photograph in this book and ask, “Dov’è?” (doh-VEH; meaning “Where is?”).
Audioguides: Many sights rent audioguides, which generally offer dry-but-useful recorded descriptions in English (about $5). If you bring your own earbuds, you can enjoy better sound and avoid holding the device to your ear. To save money, bring a Y-jack and share one audioguide with your travel partner. Increasingly, sights are offering apps (often free) that you can download to your mobile device. I’ve produced free downloadable audio tours of some of Italy’s major sights; see here.
It helps to know the terms. Art historians and Italians refer to the great Florentine centuries by dropping a thousand years. The Trecento (300s), Quattrocento (400s), and Cinquecento (500s) were the 1300s, 1400s, and 1500s. The Novecento (900s) means modern art (the 1900s). Also, in Italian museums, art is dated with sec (for secolo, or century, often indicated with Roman numerals), A.C. (for avanti Cristo, or B.C.), and D.C. (for dopo Cristo, or A.D.). O.K.?
Services: Important sights may have an on-site café or cafeteria (usually a handy place to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure that you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction, not the final word.
Churches offer some amazing art (usually free), a cool respite from heat, and a welcome seat.
A modest dress code (no bare shoulders or shorts for anyone, even kids) is enforced at larger churches, such as Venice’s St. Mark’s and the Vatican’s St. Peter’s, but is often overlooked elsewhere. If you are caught by surprise, you can improvise, using maps to cover your shoulders and a jacket for your knees. (I wear a super-lightweight pair of long pants rather than shorts for my hot and muggy big-city Italian sightseeing.)
Some churches have coin-operated audioboxes that describe the art and history; just set the dial on English, put in your coins, and listen. Other coin boxes illuminate the art (and present a better photo opportunity). I pop in a coin whenever I can. It improves my experience, is a favor to other visitors trying to appreciate a great piece of art in the dark, and is a little contribution to that church and its work. Whenever possible, let there be light.
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. Rather than list hotels scattered throughout a city, I describe two or three favorite neighborhoods and recommend the best accommodations values in each, from fancy hotels with all of the comforts to budget hostels.
Sleeping in Italy is expensive, and cheap big-city hotels can be depressing. Tourist information services cannot give opinions on quality of hotels. A major feature of this book is its extensive and opinionated listing of good-value rooms. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner and stable staff, run with a respect for Italian traditions, and not listed in other guidebooks. (In Italy, for me, six out of these eight criteria means it’s a keeper.) Some places listed are old and rickety, and I’ve described them as such. I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a pricey laundry service.
Book your accommodations well in advance, especially if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Italy; for tips on making reservations, see here.
Some people make reservations as they travel, calling hotels a few days to a week before their arrival. If you’d rather travel without any reservations at all, you’ll have greater success snaring rooms if you arrive at your destination early in the day. If you anticipate crowds (weekends are worst) on the day you want to check in, call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00, when the receptionist knows who’ll be checking out and which rooms will be available. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you.
I’ve described my recommended accommodations using a Sleep Code (see sidebar). Prices listed are for one-night stays in peak season, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through an online hotel-booking engine or TI). Booking services extract a commission from the hotel, which logically closes the door on special deals. Book direct.
While most taxes are included in the price, a variable city tax of €1-4/person per night is often added to hotel bills (and is not included in the prices in this book).
My recommended hotels each have a website (often with a built-in booking form) and an email address; you can expect a response in English within a day (and often sooner).
If you’re on a budget, it’s smart to email several hotels to ask for their best price. Comparison-shop and make your choice. This is especially helpful when dealing with the larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing,” a computer-generated system that predicts the demand for particular days and sets prices accordingly: High-demand days will often be more than double the price of low-demand days. This makes it impossible for a guidebook to list anything more accurate than a wide range of prices. I regret this trend. While you can assume that hotels listed in this book are good, it’s very difficult to say which ones are the better values unless you email to confirm the price.
As you look over the listings, you’ll notice that some accommodations promise special prices to Rick Steves readers. To get these rates, you must book directly with the hotel (that is, not through a booking site like TripAdvisor or Booking.com), mention this book when you reserve, and then show the book upon arrival. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books. Because we trust hotels to honor this, please let me know if you don’t receive a listed discount. Note, though, that discounts understandably may not be applied to promotional rates.
In general, prices can soften if you do any of the following: offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or mention this book. You can also try asking for a cheaper room or a discount, or offer to skip breakfast.
If you can handle waiting until the last minute to snare a spot, fancy hotels put empty rooms on an aggressive push list, offering great prices. Check hotel websites or sites such as www.booking.com, www.expedia.com, or www.venere.com starting two or three weeks before your arrival date. Before you bite, check to see if rates are lower than the prices in this book.
Double rooms listed in this book range from about €50 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to €450 (maximum plumbing and more), with most clustered around €140 (with private bathrooms). Prices are higher in big cities and heavily touristed cities, and lower off the beaten path.
Solo travelers find that the cost of a camera singola is often only 25 percent less than a camera doppia. Three or four people can economize by requesting larger rooms. (If a double room is €110, a quad may be about €150.) Most listed hotels have a variety of rooms that can accommodate from one to five people. If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you (charging you around €25).
The Italian word for “hotel” is hotel, and in smaller, non-touristy towns, albergo. A few places have kept the old titles locanda or pensione, indicating that they offer budget beds. English works in all but the cheapest places.
Nearly all places offer at least some rooms with private bathrooms. You’ll save €30/night if you request a room with the shower down the hall. Generally rooms with a bath or shower also have a toilet and a bidet (which Italians use for quick sponge baths). The cord that dangles over the tub or shower is not a clothesline. You pull it when you’ve fallen and can’t get up.
Double beds are called matrimoniale, even though hotels aren’t interested in your marital status. Twins are due letti singoli. Convents offer cheap accommodation, but only letti singoli.
When you check in, the receptionist will normally ask for your passport and keep it for anywhere from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours. Hotels are legally required to register each guest with the police. Relax. Americans are notorious for making this chore more difficult than it needs to be.
Hotels are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.
Assume that a basic breakfast is included in the prices I’ve listed, unless otherwise noted. If the breakfast costs money, you may want to skip it. While convenient, it’s usually expensive—€5-8 per person for a simple continental buffet with (at its most generous) bread, ham, cheese, yogurt, juice, and unlimited caffè latte. A picnic in your room followed by a coffee at the corner café can be a lot cheaper. (For more on Italian breakfasts, see here.)
More pillows and blankets are usually in the closet or available on request. Towels and linen aren’t always replaced every day. Hang your towel up to dry. Some hotels use lightweight “waffle” or very thin tablecloth-type towels; although less absorbent, these take less water and electricity to launder and are preferred by many Italians.
Most hotel rooms have a TV, phone, and free Wi-Fi (although in old buildings with thick walls, the Wi-Fi signal doesn’t always make it to the rooms; it may only be available in the lobby). Sometimes there’s a guest computer with Internet access in the lobby. Simpler places rarely have a room phone, but often have free Wi-Fi. Pricier hotels usually come with elevators, air-conditioning, and a small stocked fridge called a frigo bar (FREE-goh; pay for what you use). Hotel elevators, while becoming more common, are often very small—pack light, or you may need to send your bags up one at a time.
Hotels in resort areas will often charge you for half-pension, called mezza pensione, during peak season (which can run from May through mid-October for resorts). Half-pension means that you pay for one meal per day per person (lunch or dinner, though usually dinner), whether you want to or not. Wine is rarely included. If half-pension is required, you can’t opt out and pay less. Some places offer half-pension as an option, and it can be worth considering. If they charge you less per meal than you’ve been paying for an average restaurant meal on your trip, half-pension is a fine value—if the chef is good. Ask other guests about the quality or check out their restaurant yourself.
Reserve your rooms several weeks in advance—or as soon as you’ve pinned down your travel dates—particularly if you’ll be traveling during peak times. Note that some national holidays jam things up and merit your making reservations far in advance (see “Holidays and Festivals” on here).
Requesting a Reservation: It’s easiest to book your room through the hotel’s website. (For the best rates, always use the hotel’s official site and not a booking agency’s site.) If there’s no reservation form, or for complicated requests, send an email (see below for a sample request). Most recommended hotels take reservations in English.
The hotelier wants to know:
• the number and type of rooms you need
• the number of nights you’ll stay
• your date of arrival (use the European style for writing dates: day/month/year)
• your date of departure
• any special needs (such as bathroom in the room or down the hall, cheapest room, twin beds vs. double bed, and so on)
Mention any discounts—for Rick Steves readers or otherwise—when you make the reservation.
Confirming a Reservation: Most places will request a credit-card number to hold your room. If they don’t have a secure online reservation form—look for the https—you can email it (I do), but it’s safer to share that confidential info via a phone call or two emails (splitting your number between them).
Canceling a Reservation: If you must cancel, it’s courteous—and smart—to do so with as much notice as possible, especially for smaller family-run places. Be warned that cancellation policies can be strict; read the fine print or ask about these before you book. Internet deals may require prepayment, with no refunds for cancellations.
Reconfirming a Reservation: Always call to reconfirm your room reservation a few days in advance. For smaller hotels and B&Bs, I call again on my day of arrival to tell my host what time I expect to get there (especially important if arriving late—after 17:00).
Phoning: For tips on how to call hotels overseas, see here.
If you’re arriving early in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. You can drop your bag safely at the hotel’s front desk and dive right into sightseeing.
Hoteliers can be a great help and source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant or the nearest launderette.
Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Air-conditioning malfunctions, sinks leak, hot water turns cold, and toilets gurgle and smell. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results.
If you suspect night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one.
Checkout can pose problems if surprise charges pop up on your bill. If you settle your bill the afternoon before you leave, you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention (before 19:00, when the night shift usually arrives).
Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the city you came to see.
You’ll pay about €25-30 per bed to stay at a hostel. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Nowadays, concerned about bedbugs, hostels are likely to provide all bedding, including sheets. Family and private rooms may be available on request.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required); www.hostelworld.com is the standard way backpackers search and book hostels, but also try www.hostelz.com www.hostels.com, and www.backpackers.it.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night.
In small towns, there are often few hotels to choose from, but an abundance of affitta camere, or rental rooms. This can be anything from a set of keys and a basic bed to a cozy B&B with your own Tuscan grandmother. At some places, your host may be around only when expecting guests, so clearly communicate your arrival time. After checking in, be sure you have your host’s telephone number in case you’ll need it.
Local TIs can give you a list of possibilities (or try the free Ciao Italia Bed & Breakfast, which books B&Bs and hostels in Rome, Florence, and Venice; www.ciaoitalia-bb.com). These rooms are usually a good budget option, but since they vary in quality, shop around to find the best value. It’s always OK to ask to see the room before you commit.
Whether you’re in a city or the countryside, renting an apartment, house, or villa can be a fun and cost-effective way to delve into Europe. Apartment rentals, a great value for families or multiple couples traveling together, are also listed at TIs and are common in small towns. Websites such as HomeAway and its sister sites VRBO and GreatRentals let you correspond directly with European property owners or managers. Also browse through www.wantedinrome.com. Rentals are generally by the week, with prices starting around €100 per day. A bigger place for a group of four to five rents for around €200. Apartments generally offer a couple of bedrooms, a sitting area, and a teensy cucinetta (kitchenette), usually stocked with dishes and flatware. After you check in, you’re basically on your own. While you won’t have a doorman to carry your bags or a maid to clean your room each day, you will get an inside peek at an Italian home, and you can save lots of money—especially if you take advantage of the cooking facilities—with no loss of comfort.
Another option is Cross-Pollinate.com, an online booking agency representing B&Bs and apartments in a handful of European cities, including Rome, Venice, and Florence. Search their website for a listing you like, then submit your reservation online. If the place is available, you’ll be charged a small deposit and emailed the location and check-in details. Policies vary from owner to owner, but in most cases you’ll pay the balance on arrival in cash (US tel. 800-270-1190, Italy tel. 06-9936-9799, www.cross-pollinate.com, info@cross-pollinate.com).
Airbnb and Roomorama make it reasonably easy to find a place to sleep in someone’s home. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. If you want a free place to sleep, Couchsurfing.org is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Agriturismo (agricultural tourism), or rural B&Bs, began in the 1980s as a way to encourage small farmers in the countryside to survive in a modern economy where, like in the US, so many have been run out of business by giant agricultural corporations. By renting rooms to travelers, farmers receive generous tax breaks that allow them to remain on their land and continue to produce food. A peaceful home base for exploring the region, these rural Italian B&Bs are ideal for those traveling by car—especially families.
It’s wise to book several months in advance for high season (late April-mid-Oct). July and August are jammed with Italians and other European vacationers; in spring and fall, it’s mostly Americans. Weeklong stays (typically Saturday to Saturday) are preferred at busy times, but shorter stays are possible off-season. To sleep cheaper, avoid peak season. In the winter, you might be charged extra for heat, so confirm the price ahead of time. Payment policies vary, but generally a 25 percent deposit is required (lost if you cancel), and the balance is due one month before arrival.
As the name implies, agriturismi are in the countryside, although some are located on the outskirts of a large town or city. Most are family-run. Agriturismi vary wildly in quality—some properties are rustic, while others are downright luxurious, offering amenities such as swimming pools and riding stables. The rooms are usually clean and comfortable. Breakfast is often included, and mezza pensione (half-pension, which in this case means a home-cooked dinner) might be built into the price whether you want it or not. Most places serve tasty homegrown food; some are vegetarian or organic, others are gourmet. Kitchenettes are often available to cook up your own feast.
To qualify officially as an agriturismo, the farm must still generate more money from its farm activities, thereby ensuring that the land is worked and preserved. Some farmhouse B&Bs aren’t working farms, but are still fine places to stay. If you’re turned off by actual farm smells and sounds, you’ll be more comfortable with a countryside B&B or villa that offers more upscale comfort. In this book, I’ve listed both types of rural accommodations; if you want the real thing, make sure the owners call their place an agriturismo.
In addition to my listings—which I’ve included in the “Sleeping” sections for the towns that they’re nearest to, local TIs can give you a list of places in their area. For a sampling, visit www.agriturismoitaly.it or search online for agriturismo. One booking agency among many is Farm Holidays in Tuscany (closed Sat-Sun, tel. 0564-417-418, www.byfarmholidays.com, info@byfarmholidays.com).
The Italians are masters of the art of fine living. That means eating long and well. Lengthy, multicourse meals and endless hours sitting in outdoor cafés are the norm. Americans eat on their way to an evening event and complain if the check is slow in coming. For Italians, the meal is an end in itself, and only rude waiters rush you. When you want the bill, mime-scribble on your raised palm or request it: “Il conto, per favore.” You may have to ask for it more than once. If you’re in a hurry, request the check when you receive the last item you’ve ordered.
A highlight of your Italian adventure will be this country’s cafés, cuisine, and wines. Trust me: This is sightseeing for your palate. Even if you liked dorm food and are sleeping in cheap hotels, your taste buds will relish an occasional first-class splurge. You can eat well without going broke. But be careful: You’re just as likely to blow a small fortune on a disappointing meal as you are to dine wonderfully for €25.
In general, Italians eat meals a bit later than we do. At 7:00 or 8:00 in the morning, they have a light breakfast (coffee—usually cappuccino or espresso—and a pastry, often standing up at a café). Lunch (between 13:00 and 15:00) is traditionally the largest meal of the day. Then they eat a late, light dinner (around 20:00-21:30, or maybe earlier in winter). To bridge the gap, people drop into a bar in the late afternoon for a spuntino (snack) and aperitif.
Most restaurant kitchens close between their lunch and dinner service. Good restaurants don’t reopen for dinner before 19:00. Small restaurants with a full slate of reservations for 20:30 or 21:00 often will accommodate walk-in diners willing to eat a quick, early meal, but you aren’t expected to linger.
Italian breakfasts, like Italian bath towels, are small: The basic, traditional version is coffee and a roll with butter and marmalade. These days, many places also have juice, yogurt, maybe cereal, possibly cold cuts and sliced cheese, and sometimes eggs (typically hard-boiled; scrambled or fried eggs are rare). Small budget hotels may leave a basic breakfast in a fridge in your room (stale croissant, roll, jam, yogurt, coffee). In general, the pricier the hotel, the bigger the breakfast.
The strong coffee at breakfast is often mixed about half-and-half with heated milk. At your hotel, refills are usually free. The delicious blood orange juice (spremuta di arance rossa) is made from Sicilian blood oranges.
If you want to skip your hotel breakfast, consider browsing for a morning picnic at a local open-air market. Or do as the Italians do: Stop into a bar or café to drink a cappuccino and munch a cornetto (croissant) while standing at the bar. While the cornetto is the most common pastry, you’ll find a range of pasticcini (pastries, sometimes called dolci—“sweets”). Look for otto (“8”-shaped pastry, often filled with custard, jam, or chocolate), sfoglia (can be fruit-filled, like a turnover), or ciambella (doughnut filled with custard or chocolate)—or ask about local specialties.
While ristorante is self-explanatory, you’ll also see other types of Italian eateries: A trattoria and an osteria (which can be more casual) are generally family-owned places serving home-cooked meals, often at moderate prices. A locanda is an inn, a cantina is a wine cellar, and a birreria is a brewpub. Pizzerie, rosticcerie (delis), tavola calda (“hot table”) bars, enoteche (wine bars), and other alternatives are explained later.
When restaurant hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We speak English and accept credit cards.” Restaurants parked on famous squares generally serve bad food at high prices to tourists. Locals eat better at lower-rent locales. Family-run places operate without hired help and can offer cheaper meals. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for less than half the price of the tourist-oriented places.
Before you sit down, look at a menu to see what extra charges a restaurant tacks on. Two different items are routinely factored into your bill: the coperto and the servizio.
The coperto (cover charge), sometimes called pane e coperto (bread and cover), offsets the restaurant’s overhead expenses—from the basket of bread on your table to the electricity for running the dishwasher. It’s not negotiable, even if you don’t eat the bread. Think of it as covering the cost of using the table for as long as you like. (Italians like to linger.) Most restaurants add the coperto onto your bill as a flat fee (€1-3.50 per person; the amount should be clearly noted on the menu).
The servizio (service charge) of about 10 percent pays for the waitstaff. At most eateries, the words servizio incluso are written on the menu and/or the receipt—indicating that the listed prices already include the fee. You can add on a tip, if you choose, by including a euro or two for each person in your party. While Italians don’t think about tips in terms of percentages—and many don’t tip at all—this extra amount usually comes out to about 5 percent (10 percent is excessive for all but the very best service).
Some trendy restaurants don’t include the service in the menu prices—but will automatically tack on a 10 percent servizio charge to your bill. If a menu reads servizio 10%, the listed prices don’t include the fee; it will be added onto your bill for you (so you don’t need to calculate it yourself and pay it separately). Rarely, you’ll see the words servizio non incluso on the menu or bill; in this case, you’re expected to add a tip of about 10 percent.
Self-service restaurants never have a cover or service charge.
A full Italian meal consists of several courses:
Antipasto (usually €5-10): An appetizer such as bruschetta; grilled veggies; deep-fried tasties; thin-sliced meat (for example, prosciutto or carpaccio); or a plate of olives, cold cuts, and cheeses. A plate of antipasti misti (“mixed”—an assortment) could make a light meal in itself.
Primo piatto (usually €7-15): A “first dish” generally consisting of pasta, rice, or soup. If you think of pasta when you think of Italy, you can dine well here without ever going beyond the primo.
Secondo piatto (usually €10-25): A “second dish,” equivalent to our main course, of meat or fish/seafood. Italians freely admit the secondo is the least interesting part of their cuisine.
A vegetable side dish (contorno) may come with the secondo, but more often must be ordered separately (€5-6).
The euros can add up in a hurry, and for most travelers, a complete meal with all three courses (plus contorni, dessert, and wine) is simply too much food. To avoid overeating (and to stretch your budget), share dishes. A good rule of thumb is for each person to order any two courses. For example, a couple can order and share one antipasto, one primo, one secondo, and one dessert; or two antipasti and two primi; or whatever combination appeals. Some restaurants serve a piatta unica, with smaller portions of each course on one dish (for instance, a meat, starch, and vegetable).
Another good option is sharing an array of antipasti—either by ordering several specific dishes or, at restaurants that offer self-serve buffets, by choosing a variety of cold and cooked appetizers from an antipasti buffet spread out like a salad bar. At buffets, you pay per plate; a typical serving costs about €8 (generally Italians don’t treat buffets as all-you-can-eat, but take a one-time moderate serving; watch others and imitate).
To maximize the experience and flavors, small groups can mix antipasti and primi family-style (skipping secondi). If you do this right, you can eat well in better places for less than the cost of a fixed-price meal in a cheap place.
Seafood and steak may be sold by weight (priced by the kilo—1,000 grams, or just over two pounds; or by the etto—100 grams). The abbreviation s.q. (secondo quantità) means an item is priced “according to quantity.” Unless the menu indicates a fillet (filetto), fish is usually served whole with the head and tail. However, you can always ask your waiter to select a small fish for you. Sometimes, especially for steak, restaurants require a minimum order of four or five etti (which diners can share). Make sure you’re really clear on the price before ordering.
Some special dishes come in larger quantities meant to be shared by two people. The shorthand way of showing this on a menu is “X2” (for two), but the price listed generally indicates the cost per person.
In a traditional restaurant, if you order a pasta dish and a side salad—but no main course—the waiter will bring the salad after the pasta (Italians prefer it this way, believing that it enhances digestion). If you want the salad with your pasta, specify insieme (een-see-YEH-meh, “together”). At eateries more accustomed to tourists, you may be asked when you want the salad.
Because pasta and bread are both starches, Italians consider them redundant. If you order only a pasta dish, bread may not come with it; you can request it, but you may be charged extra. On the other hand, if you order a vegetable antipasto or a meat secondo, bread is provided to balance the ingredients.
At places with counter service—such as at a bar or a freeway rest-stop diner—you’ll first order and pay at the cassa (cashier). Then take your receipt over to the counter to claim your food.
You can save by getting a fixed-priced meal, which is frequently exempt from cover and service charges. Avoid the cheapest ones (often called a menù turistico), which tend to be bland and heavy, pairing a very basic pasta with reheated schnitzel and roast meats. Look instead for a genuine menù del giorno (menu of the day), which offers diners a choice of appetizer, main course, and dessert. It’s worth paying a little more for an inventive fixed-price meal that shows off the chef’s creativity.
While fixed-price meals can be easy and convenient, galloping gourmets order à la carte with the help of a menu translator. (The Rick Steves Italian Phrase Book & Dictionary has a menu decoder with plenty of useful phrases.) When going to an especially good restaurant with an approachable staff, I like to find out what they’re eager to serve, or I’ll simply say, “Mi faccia felice” (Make me happy) and set a price limit.
Italy offers many budget options for hungry travelers, but beware of cheap eateries that sport big color photos of pizza and piles of different pastas. They have no kitchens and simply microwave disgusting prepackaged food.
Self-service cafeterias offer the basics without add-on charges. Those on a hard-core budget equip their room with a pantry stocked at the market (fruits and veggies are remarkably cheap) or pick up a sandwich or döner kebab (rotisserie meat wrapped in pita bread), then dine in at picnic prices. Bars and cafés, described later, are another good place to grab a meal on the go.
Pizza is cheap and readily available. Stop by a pizza shop for stand-up or takeout pizza (pizza al taglio means “by the slice”). Some shops sell individual slices of round, Naples-style pizza, while others feature pizza rustica—thick pizza baked in a large rectangular pan and sold by weight. If you simply ask for a piece, you may wind up with a gigantic slab and be charged top euro. Instead, clearly indicate how much you want: 100 grams, or un etto, is a hot and cheap snack; 200 grams, or due etti, makes a light meal. Or show the size with your hands—tanto così (TAHN-toh koh-ZEE; this much).
Key pizza vocabulary: capricciosa (literally the “chef’s caprice,” generally prosciutto, mushrooms, olives, and artichokes), funghi (mushrooms), marinara (tomato sauce, oregano, garlic, no cheese), napoletana (mozzarella, anchovies, and tomato sauce), vegetariana or ortolana (“greengrocer-style,” with vegetables), quattro formaggi (four different cheeses), and quattro stagioni (different toppings on each of the four quarters, for those who can’t choose just one menu item). If you ask for pepperoni on your pizza, you’ll get peperoni (green or red peppers, not sausage); request diavola or salsiccia piccante instead (the closest thing in Italy to American pepperoni). Kids like the bland margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil—the red, white, and green of the Italian flag). Pizza bianca (or pizza ciaccina) is “white” pizza, with no tomatoes.
Italian “bars” are not taverns, but inexpensive cafés. These neighborhood hangouts serve coffee, mini-pizzas, premade sandwiches, and drinks from the cooler. Many dish up plates of fried cheese and vegetables from under the glass counter, ready to reheat. This budget choice is the Italian equivalent of English pub grub.
Food: For quick meals, bars usually have trays of cheap, premade sandwiches (panini, made with a baguette; piadini, on flatbread; or tramezzini, on crustless white bread)—some are delightful grilled. (Others have too much mayo.) To save time for sightseeing and room for dinner, stop by a bar for a light lunch, such as a ham-and-cheese sandwich (called toast); have it grilled twice if you want it really hot. To get food “to go,” say, “da portar via” (for the road). Many bars are small—if you can’t find a table, you’ll need to stand up or find a ledge to sit on outside. Most charge extra for table service (see next). All bars have a WC (toilette, bagno) in the back, and customers—and the discreet public—can use it.
Prices and Paying: You’ll notice a two- or three-tiered pricing system. Drinking a cup of coffee while standing at the bar is cheaper than drinking it at an indoor table (you’ll pay still more at an outdoor table). Many places have a lista dei prezzi (price list) with two columns—al bar and al tavolo (table)—posted somewhere by the bar or cash register. If you’re on a budget, don’t sit down without first checking out the financial consequences. Ask, “Same price if I sit or stand?” by saying, “Costa uguale al tavolo o al banco?” (KOH-stah oo-GWAH-lay ahl TAH-voh-loh oh ahl BAHN-koh). Throughout Italy, you can get cheap coffee at the bar of any establishment, no matter how fancy, and pay the same low, government-regulated price (generally less than a euro if you stand).
If the bar isn’t busy, you can probably just order and pay when you leave. Otherwise: 1) Decide what you want; 2) find out the price by checking the price list on the wall, the prices posted near the food, or by asking the barista; 3) pay the cashier; and 4) give the receipt to the barista (whose clean fingers handle no dirty euros) and tell him or her what you want.
For more on drinking, see “Beverages,” later.
A good bet for a cheap, hot meal is a döner kebab. Look for little hole-in-the-wall kebab shops, where you can get a hearty, meaty takeaway dinner wrapped in pita bread for €3.50. Pay an extra euro to super-size it, and it’ll feed two. Asian restaurants, although not as common as in northern Europe and usually serving only Chinese dishes, can also be a good value.
For a fast and cheap lunch, find an Italian variation on the corner deli: a rosticceria (specializing in roasted meats and accompanying antipasti) or a tavola calda bar (“hot table” point-and-shoot cafeteria with a buffet spread of meat and vegetables; sometimes called tavola fredda, or “cold table,” in the north). For a healthy light meal, ask for a mixed plate of vegetables with a hunk of mozzarella (piatto misto di verdure con mozzarella; pee-AH-toh MEE-stoh dee vehr-DOO-ray). Don’t be limited by what’s displayed. If you’d like a salad with a slice of cantaloupe and a hunk of cheese, they’ll whip that up for you in a snap. Belly up to the bar and, with a pointing finger, you can get a fine meal. If something’s a mystery, ask for un assaggio (oon ah-SAH-joh) to get a little taste. To have your choices warmed up, ask for them to be heated (scaldare; skahl-DAH-ray).
Wine bars (enoteche) are a popular, fast option for lunch. Surrounded by the office crowd, you can get a fancy salad, a plate of cold cuts and cheeses, and a glass of fine wine (see blackboards for the day’s selection and price per glass). A good enoteca aims to impress visitors with its wine, and will generally choose excellent-quality ingredients for the simple dishes it offers with the wine (though prices can add up quickly—be careful with your ordering to keep this a budget choice).
The Italian term aperitivo means a pre-dinner drink (specific drinks described later), but it’s also used to describe their version of what we might call “happy hour”: a light buffet that many bars serve to customers during the pre-dinner hours (typically around 19:00-21:00). The drink itself may not be cheap (typically €8-15), but bars lay out an enticing array of meats, cheeses, grilled vegetables, and other antipasti-type dishes, and you’re welcome to nibble to your heart’s content while you nurse your drink. Though it’s intended as an appetizer course before heading out for a full dinner, light eaters could discreetly turn this into a small meal. If this interests you, drop by a few bars around this time of day to scope out their buffets before choosing.
Another budget option is to drop by an alimentari (neighborhood grocery) or salumeria (delicatessen) to pick up some cold cuts, cheeses, and other supplies for a picnic. Some salumerie, and any paninoteca or focacceria (sandwich shop), can make you a sandwich to order. Just point to what you want, and they’ll stuff it into a panino; if you want it heated, remember the word scaldare (skahl-DAH-ray).
To get a sampler plate of cold cuts and cheeses in a restaurant, ask for affettato misto (mixed cold cuts), antipasto misto (cold cuts, cheeses, and marinated vegetables), or—in Tuscany—tagliere (tahl-yee-eh-ray—a sampler board). If you’re ordering an assortment, some unscrupulous shops may try to pad the bill by pushing their most expensive ingredients. Be clear on what your price limit; for example, ask for an antipasto misto da [fill in price] euro, per favore.
Salumi (“salted” meats), also called affettati (“cut” meats), are an Italian staple. Whereas most American cold cuts are cooked, in Italy they’re far more commonly cured by air-drying, salting, and smoking. (Don’t worry; these so-called “raw” meats are safe to eat and very flavorful.)
The two most familiar types of salumi are salame and prosciutto. Salame is an air-dried, sometimes spicy sausage that comes in many varieties, including finocchiona (with fennel seeds), salame piccante (spicy hot, similar to pepperoni), and salame di Sant’Olcese (what we’d call “Genoa salami”). When Italians say “prosciutto,” they usually mean prosciutto crudo—the “raw” ham that air-cures on the hock and is then thinly sliced. Produced mainly in the north of Italy, prosciutto can be either dolce (sweet) or salato (salty). Purists say the best is prosciutto di Parma.
Other salumi may be less familiar. Air-cured pork variations include culatello (prosciutto made with only the finest cuts of meat), capocollo (or coppa, peppery pork shoulder), speck (smoked pork shoulder), guanciale (tender pork cheek), and lonzino (cured pork loin). Pancetta—which can be eaten raw or added to cooked dishes—is salt-cured, peppery pork belly meat (similar to bacon). Mortadella, a finely ground pork loaf, is similar to our baloney, and bresaola is air-cured beef. But look out for testa in cassetta (headcheese—organs in aspic) and sopressata (in other parts of Italy, this is a spicy salame—but in Tuscany, it’s often headcheese).
As for formaggio (cheese), you’re probably already familiar with several Italian favorites: asiago (hard cow cheese that comes either mezzano—young, firm, and creamy; or stravecchio—aged, pungent, and granular); fontina (semi-hard, nutty, Gruyère-style mountain cheese); Gorgonzola (pungent, blue-veined cheese, either dolce—creamy, or stagionato—aged and hard); mascarpone (sweet, buttery, spreadable dessert cheese); parmigiano-reggiano (hard, crumbly, sharp, aged cow cheese with more nuanced flavor than American “parmesan”; grana padano is a less expensive variation); pecorino (either fresco—fresh, soft, and mild; or stagionato—aged and sharp, sometimes called pecorino romano); provolone (rich, firm, aged cow cheese); ricotta (soft, airy cheese made by “recooking” leftover whey); and, of course, mozzarella. The best mozzarella is mozzarella di bufala, made from the milk of water buffaloes; other variations include burrata (a creamy mozzarella) and scamorza (similar to mozzarella, but often smoked).
Picnicking saves lots of euros and is a great way to sample regional specialties. A typical picnic for two might be fresh rolls, 100 grams (un etto, EH-toh, plural etti, EH-tee—about a quarter-pound) of cheese, and 100 grams of meat (sometimes ordered by the slice—fetta, or piece—pezzi; for two people, I might get cinque pezzi—five pieces—of prosciutto). Add two tomatoes, three carrots, two apples, yogurt, and a liter box of juice. Total cost: about €10.
In the process of assembling your meal, you get to deal with the Italians in the market scene. For a colorful experience, gather your ingredients in the morning at a produce market; you’ll probably need to hit several stalls to put together a complete meal (note that many close in the early afternoon).
While it’s fun to visit the small specialty shops, an alimentari is your one-stop corner grocery store (most will slice and stuff your sandwich for you if you buy the ingredients there). The rare supermercato (look for the Conad, Despar, and Co-op chains) gives you more efficiency with less color for less cost. At busier supermarkets, you’ll need to take a number for deli service.
Juice lovers can get a liter of O.J. for the price of a Coke or coffee. Look for “100% succo” (juice) or “senza zucchero” (without sugar) on the label—or be surprised by something diluted and sugary sweet. Hang on to the half-liter mineral-water bottles (sold everywhere for about €1). Buy juice in cheap liter boxes, then drink some and store the extra in your water bottle. (I refill my water bottle with tap water—acqua del rubinetto.)
Picnics can be an adventure in high cuisine. Be daring. Try the fresh mozzarella, presto pesto, shriveled olives, and any UFOs the locals are excited about. If ordering antipasti (such as grilled or marinated veggies) at a deli counter, you can ask for una porzione in a plastic takeaway container (contenitore). Use gestures to show exactly how much you want. The word basta (BAH-stah)—”enough”—works as a question or as a statement.
Shopkeepers are happy to sell small quantities of produce, but it’s customary to let the merchant choose for you. Say “per oggi” (pehr OH-jee; for today) and he or she will grab you something ready to eat. To avoid being overcharged, know the cost per kilo and study the weighing procedure as if you’re doing the arithmetic.
Gelato is an edible art form—and it’s one souvenir that can’t break and won’t clutter your luggage. While American ice cream is made with cream and has a high butterfat content, Italian gelato is made with milk. It’s also churned more slowly, making it denser. Connoisseurs believe that because gelato has less air and less fat (which coats the mouth and blocks the taste buds), it’s more flavorful than American-style ice cream.
Stop by a gelateria and survey your options. A key to gelato appreciation is sampling liberally and choosing flavors that go well together. Ask, as Italians do, for “Un assaggio, per favore?” (A taste, please?; oon ah-SAH-joh pehr fah-VOH-ray) and “Quali gusti stanno bene insieme?” (What flavors go well together?; KWAH-lee GOO-stee STAH-noh BEH-nay een-see-EH-may). You can get a cono (cone) or coppetta (cup—also coppa).
Most gelaterie clearly display prices and sizes. But in the textbook gelateria scam, the tourist orders two or three flavors—and the clerk selects a fancy, expensive chocolate-coated waffle cone, piles it high with huge scoops, and cheerfully charges the tourist €10. To avoid rip-offs, point to the price or say what you want—for example, “Una coppetta da tre euro” (OO-nah koh-PEH-tah dah tray eh-oo-roh; a €3 cup).
Not all gelaterie are created equal. The best ones display signs reading artiginale, nostra produzione, or produzione propia, indicating that the gelato is made on the premises. Seasonal flavors are also a good sign. Gelato stored in covered metal tins (rather than white plastic) is more likely to be homemade. Gelato aficionados avoid colors that don’t appear in nature; for fewer chemicals and real flavor, go for mellow hues.
Gourmet gelato shops are popping up all over Italy, selling expensive, exotic flavors. A chain called Grom is comparable to Ben & Jerry’s in the US. But even regular shops offer many fun flavors.
Most gelaterie label each tub with the flavor (in Italian and, often, in English) and, sometimes, a little picture to help identify it. Aside from the typical crema (vanilla), cioccolato (chocolate), and fragola (strawberry), here are a few flavors worth trying: After Eight (chocolate and mint), bacio (chocolate hazelnut, named for Italy’s popular “kiss” candies), croccantino (“crunchy,” with toasted peanut bits), cassata (with dried fruits), fior di latte (sweet milk), macedonia (mixed fruits), riso (with actual bits of rice mixed in), malaga (similar to rum raisin), tartufo (super chocolate), zuppa inglese (sponge cake, custard, chocolate, and cream), and the popular stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips). Flavors named Snickers, Lion, and Bounty resemble their namesake candy bars.
Gelato variations or alternatives include sorbetto (sorbet—made with fruit, but no milk or eggs); granita or grattachecca (a cup of slushy ice with flavored syrup); and cremolata (a gelato-granita float).
Italian bars serve great drinks—hot, cold, sweet, caffeinated, or alcoholic. Chilled bottled water, still (naturale) or carbonated (frizzante), is sold cheap in stores. Coffee and wine—two Italian specialties—are covered in greater depth later.
Juice: Spremuta means freshly squeezed, as far as succo (fruit juice) is concerned (order una spremuta—don’t confuse it with spumante, sparkling wine). It’s usually orange juice (arancia), and February through April it’s almost always made from blood oranges (arance rosse).
Beer: While Italy is traditionally considered wine country, in recent years there’s been a huge and passionate growth in the production of craft beer (birra artigianale). Even in small towns, you’ll see microbreweries slinging their own brews. You’ll also find local brews (Peroni and Moretti), as well as imports such as Heineken. Beer on tap is alla spina. Get it piccola (33 cl, 11 oz), media (50 cl, about a pint), or grande (a liter). Italians drink mainly lager beers. A lattina (lah-TEE-nah) is a can and a bottiglia (boh-TEEL-yah) is a bottle.
Cocktails and Spirits: Italians appreciate both aperitivi (palate-stimulating cocktails) and digestivi (after-dinner drinks designed to aid digestion). Popular aperitivo options include Campari (dark-colored bitters with herbs and orange peel), Americano (vermouth with bitters, brandy, and lemon peel), Cynar (bitters flavored with artichoke), and Punt e Mes (sweet red vermouth and red wine). Widely used vermouth brands include Cinzano and Martini. Digestivo choices are usually either a strong herbal bitters or something sweet. Many restaurants have their own secret recipe for a bittersweet herbal brew called amaro; popular commercial brands are Fernet Branca and Montenegro. If your tastes run sweeter, try amaretto (almond-flavored liqueur), Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur), limoncello or limoncino (lemon liqueur), nocino (dark, sweet walnut liqueur), and sambuca (syrupy, anise-flavored liqueur; con moscha adds “flies”—three coffee beans). Grappa is a brandy distilled from grape skins and stems; stravecchio is an aged, mellower variation.
The espresso-based style of coffee so popular in the US was born in Italy. If you ask for “un caffè,” you’ll get a shot of espresso in a little cup; the closest thing to American-style drip coffee is a caffè americano. Most Italian drinks begin with espresso, to which is added varying amounts of hot water and/or steamed or foamed milk. Milky drinks, like cappuccino or caffè latte, are served to locals before noon and to tourists any time of day (to an Italian, cappuccino is a morning drink; they believe having milk after a big meal or anything with tomato sauce impairs digestion). If they add any milk after lunch, it’s just a splash, in a macchiato (mah-kee-AH-toh). Italians like their coffee only warm—to get it very hot, request “Molto caldo, per favore” (MOHL-toh KAHL-doh pehr fah-VOH-ray). Any coffee drink is available decaffeinated—ask for it decaffeinato (deh-kah-feh-ee-NAH-toh).
Experiment with a few of the options:
• Cappuccino: Espresso with foamed milk on top
• Caffè latte: Espresso mixed with hot milk, no foam, in a tall glass (ordering just a “latte” gets you only milk)
• Caffè macchiato: Espresso “marked” with just a splash of milk, in a small cup
• Latte macchiato: Layers of hot milk and foam, “marked” by an espresso shot, in a tall glass
• Caffè corto/lungo: Concentrated espresso diluted with a tiny bit of hot water, in a small cup (lungo is more diluted than corto)
• Caffè americano: Espresso diluted with even more hot water, in a larger cup
• Caffè corretto: Espresso “corrected” with a shot of liqueur (normally grappa, amaro, or Sambuca)
• Marocchino: “Moroccan” coffee with espresso, foamed milk, and cocoa powder; the similar mocaccino has chocolate instead of cocoa
• Caffè freddo: Sweet and iced espresso
• Cappuccino freddo: Iced cappuccino
• Caffè hag: Instant decaf
Notice that there’s a big difference between caffè macchiato and latte macchiato. If you order simply a “macchiato,” you’ll probably get the coffee version...and have to get your milk fix elsewhere.
More Hot Drinks: Cioccolato is hot chocolate. Tè is hot tea. Tè freddo (iced tea) is usually from a can—sweetened and flavored with lemon or peach.
The ancient Greeks who colonized Italy more than 2,000 years ago called it Oenotria—land of the grape. Centuries later, Galileo wrote, “Wine is light held together by water.” Wine (vino) is certainly a part of the Italian culinary trinity—grape, olive, and wheat. (I’d add gelato.) Ideal conditions for grapes (warm climate, well-draining soil, and an abundance of hillsides) make the Italian peninsula a paradise for grape growers, winemakers, and wine drinkers. Italy makes and consumes more wine per capita than any other country.
To order a glass (bicchiere; bee-kee-EH-ree) of red (rosso) or white (bianco) wine, say, “Un bicchiere di vino rosso/bianco.” Corposo means full-bodied. House wine (vino della casa) comes in a carafe; choose from a quarter-liter pitcher (8.5 oz, un quarto), half-liter pitcher (17 oz, un mezzo), or one-liter pitcher (34 oz, un litro).
Even if you’re clueless about wine, the information on an Italian wine label can help you choose something decent. Terms you may see include classico (from a defined, select area), annata (year of harvest), vendemmia (harvest), and imbottigliato dal produttore all’origine (bottled by producers). To figure out what you like—and what suits your pocketbook—visit an enoteca (wine bar) and sample wines side-by-side.
In general, Italy designates its wines by one of four official categories:
Vino da Tavola (VDT) is table wine, the lowest grade, made from grapes grown anywhere in Italy. It’s inexpensive, but Italy’s wines are so good that, for many people, a basic vino da tavola is just fine with a meal. Many restaurants, even modest ones, take pride in their house wine (vino della casa), bottling their own or working with wineries.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) meets national standards for high-quality wine. Made from grapes grown in a defined area, it’s usually quite affordable, and can be surprisingly good. Hundreds of wines have earned the DOC designation. In Tuscany, for example, many such wines come from the Chianti region, located between Florence and Siena.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Guarantita (DOCG), the highest grade, meets national standards for the highest-quality wine (made with grapes from a defined area whose quality is “guaranteed”). These wines can be identified by the pink or green label on the neck...and the scary price tag on the shelf. Only a limited number of wines in Italy can be called DOCG. They’re generally a good bet if you want a quality wine, but you don’t know anything else about the winemaker. (Riserva indicates a DOC or DOCG wine matured for a longer, more specific time.)
Indicazione Geographica Tipica (IGT) is a broad group of wines that range from basic to some of Italy’s best. These wines don’t follow the strict “recipe” required for DOC or DOCG status, but they give local vintners creative license. This category includes the Super Tuscans, wines made from a mix of international grapes (such as cabernet sauvignon) grown in Tuscany and aged in small oak barrels for only two years. The result is a lively full-bodied wine that dances all over your head...and is worth the steep price for aficionados.
In almost every part of Italy, you’ll find wine varieties designed to go with the regional cuisine.
Tuscany (Florence, Siena, and Nearby): Many Tuscan wines are made with sangiovese (“blood of Jupiter”) grapes, including the well-known Chiantis, which range from cheap, acidic basket-bottles of table wine (called fiaschi) to the hearty Chianti Classico. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a high-quality dry ruby red that pairs well with meat, especially chicken. One of Italy’s top reds is Brunello di Montalcino (smooth, dry, aged at least four years in wood); a cheaper, younger “baby Brunello” is Rosso di Montalcino. Pricey Super Tuscans blend traditional grapes with locally grown non-Italian grapes (such as cabernet or merlot). A decent white choice is Vernaccia di San Gimignano (medium-dry, pairs well with pasta and salad). Trebbiano and vermentino are two other local white grapes. Vin santo is a sweet, syrupy, “holy” dessert wine, often served with a cookie for dipping.
Veneto (near Venice): Valpolicella grapes are used to make a light, fruity, dry, red table wine as well as Amarone (full-bodied red made from partially dried—passito—grapes, then aged for at least four years in oak) and Recioto (sweet dessert wine made with high-sugar grapes that are also dried and aged). Bardolino is a light, fruity, Beaujolais-like picnic wine. Whites include Soave (crisp, dry white that goes well with seafood; the best is Soave Classico), Pinot Grigio, and Bianco di Custoza. If you like bubbles, try Fragolino (sweet, slightly fizzy dessert wine made from a strawberry-flavored grape) or Prosecco (connoisseurs say the best hails from Valdobbiadene).
Umbria (Assisi, Orvieto, and Nearby): Trebbiano is this region’s main white grape. Look for Orvieto Classico (a golden, dry white). For reds, consider Sagrantino de Montefalco (dark, tannic) or Torgiano Rosso Riserva (elegant, smooth). Wines from the quality producer Lungarotti are worth trying.
Liguria (Italian Riviera, including Cinque Terre): This coastal region produces light, delicate whites (using mostly bosco grapes) that go well with seafood. Dolceacqua is a medium-bodied red. After dinner, try Sciacchetrà (shok-ee-trah, a silky sweet, potent, amber-colored wine made with raisins).
Lazio (Rome and Nearby): Wines to try here include Frascati (inexpensive dry white); Castelli Romani, Marino, Colli Albani, and Velletri (all light and fairly dry); and Torre Ercolana (balanced, medium-bodied, best-quality red).
Dolomites: While beer is king here, look for reds like St. Magdalaner (light, dry, made from schiava grapes); Lagrein Scuro (full-bodied, dry and fruity, similar to a cabernet sauvignon or merlot); or whites like Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Blanc. Nosiola is an aromatic local grape used for dessert and sparkling wine.
Piedmont (near Milan and the Lakes): This region specializes in bold, dry reds that go with the rich, local cuisine. Nebbiolo is the main red grape. Wine lovers drool over Barolo (big, tannic, aged three years or more) or its “little brother,” Barbaresco (elegant, aged two years). For lighter, less tannic reds, try Barbera or Dolcetto (soft, fruity). Whites include Gavi (light, fruity) and Arneis (flowery, medium-bodied). For bubbly wines, try Brachetto (crimson, sweet, berry notes, excellent aperitif), Moscato d’Asti (semi-sweet, slightly fizzy), and Asti Spumante (dry).
Campania (Naples, Sorrento, and Nearby): Plentiful sun and Mt. Vesuvius’ volcanic soils provide great wine-growing conditions. Taurasi is an excellent ruby-colored, tannic, aged, full-bodied red from the aglianico grape. Lacryma Christi (“tears of Christ”) comes in both red (medium body) and white (dry and fruity, great with seafood). Other whites are Greco di Tufo (dry, pale yellow) and Fiano di Avellino (soft, flavorful, dry).
Sicily: The main red is Nero d’Avola (jammy, full-bodied, tannic). Corvo, Regaleali, and Planeta are some established producers. White wines use indigenous grapes like grillo, inzolio, and catarrato. Try Bianca d’Alcamo (dry, fresh, fruity) and Etna Bianco (dry, lemon flavors, pairs well with shellfish). Marsala is a (usually) sweet fortified dessert wine.
“How can I stay connected in Europe?”—by phone and Internet—may be the most common question I hear from travelers. You have three basic options:
1. “Roam” with your US smartphone. This is the easiest option, but likely the most expensive. It works best for people who won’t be making very many calls, and who value the convenience of sticking with what’s familiar (and their own phone number). In recent years, as data roaming fees have dropped and free Wi-Fi has become easier to find, the majority of travelers are finding this to be the best all-around option.
2. Use an unlocked mobile phone with European SIM cards. This is a much more affordable option if you’ll be making lots of calls, since it gives you 24/7 access to cheap European rates. Although remarkably cheap, this option does require a willingness to grapple with the technology and do a bit of shopping around for the right phone and card. Savvy travelers who routinely use SIM cards swear by them.
3. Use public phones and get online at your hotel or at Internet cafés. These options can work in a pinch, particularly for travelers who simply don’t want to hassle with the technology, or want to be (mostly) untethered from their home life while on the road.
Each of these options is explained in greater detail in the following pages. Mixing and matching works well. For example, I routinely bring along my smartphone for Internet chores and Skyping on Wi-Fi, but also carry an unlocked phone and buy cheap SIM cards for affordable calls on the go.
For an even more in-depth explanation of this complicated topic, see www.ricksteves.com/phoning.
Many Americans are intimidated by dialing European phone numbers. You needn’t be. It’s simple, once you break the code.
The following instructions apply whether you’re dialing from a landline (such as a pay phone or your hotel-room phone) or an Italian mobile phone.
Italy has a direct-dial phone system (no area codes). To call anywhere within Italy, just dial the number. For example, the number of one of my recommended Florence hotels is 055-289-592. That’s the number you dial whether you’re calling it from Florence’s train station or from Rome.
Italy’s landlines start with 0, and mobile lines start with 3. The country’s toll-free lines begin with 80. These 80 numbers—called freephone or numero verde (green number)—can be dialed free from any phone without using a phone card. Note that you can’t call Italy’s toll-free numbers from the US, nor can you count on reaching American toll-free numbers from Italy. Any Italian phone number that starts with 8 but isn’t followed by a 0 is a toll call, generally costing €0.10-0.50 per minute.
Always start with the international access code—011 if you’re calling from the US or Canada, 00 from anywhere in Europe. If you’re dialing from a mobile phone, simply insert a + instead (by holding the 0 key).
• Dial the country code of the country you’re calling (39 for Italy, or 1 for the US or Canada).
• Then dial the local number. Note that in most European countries, you have to drop the zero at the beginning of the local number—but in Italy, you dial it. The European calling chart lists specifics per country.
Calling from the US to Italy: To call my recommended Florence hotel from the US, dial 011 (US access code), 39 (Italy’s country code), then 055-289-592.
Calling from any European Country to the US: To call my office in Edmonds, Washington, from anywhere in Europe, I dial 00 (Europe’s access code), 1 (US country code), 425 (Edmonds’ area code), and 771-8303.
The chart on the next page shows how to dial per country. For online instructions, see www.countrycallingcodes.com or www.howtocallabroad.com.
Remember, if you’re using a mobile phone, dial as if you’re in that phone’s country of origin. So, when roaming with your US phone number in Italy, dial as if you’re calling from the US. But if you’re using a European SIM card, dial as you would from that European country.
Note that calls to a European mobile phone are substantially more expensive than calls to a fixed line. Off-hour calls are generally cheaper.
In Italy, phone numbers can have varying lengths. For instance, a hotel might have a seven-digit phone number and an eight-digit fax number.
For tips on communicating over the phone with someone who speaks another language, see the sidebar above.
Even in this age of email, texting, and near-universal Internet access, smart travelers still use the telephone. I call TIs to smooth out sightseeing plans, hotels to get driving directions, museums to confirm tour schedules, restaurants to check open hours or to book a table, and so on.
Most people enjoy the convenience of bringing their own smartphone. Horror stories about sky-high roaming fees are dated and exaggerated, and major service providers work hard to avoid surprising you with an exorbitant bill. With a little planning, you can use your phone—for voice calls, messaging, and Internet access—without breaking the bank.
Start by figuring out whether your phone works in Europe. Most phones purchased through AT&T and T-Mobile (which use the same technology as Europe) work abroad, while only some phones from Verizon or Sprint do—check your operating manual (look for “tri-band,” “quad-band,” or “GSM”). If you’re not sure, ask your service provider.
“Roaming” with your phone—that is, using it outside of its home region, such as in Europe—generally comes with extra charges, whether you’re making voice calls, sending texts, or reading your email. The fees listed here are for the three major American providers—Verizon, AT&T, and T-Mobile; Sprint’s roaming rates tend to be much higher. But policies change fast, so get the latest details before your trip. For example, as of mid-2014, T-Mobile waived voice, texting, and data roaming fees for some plans.
Voice calls are the most expensive. Most providers charge from $1.29 to $1.99 per minute to make or receive calls in Europe. (As you cross each border, you’ll typically get a text message explaining the rates in the new country.) If you plan to make multiple calls, look into a global calling plan to lower the per-minute cost, or buy a package of minutes at a discounted price (such as 30 minutes for $30). Note that you’ll be charged for incoming calls whether or not you answer them; to save money ask your friends to stay in contact by texting, and to call you only in case of an emergency.
Text messaging costs 20 to 50 cents per text. To cut that cost, you could sign up for an international messaging plan (for example, $10 for 100 texts). Or consider apps that let you text for free (iMessage for Apple, Google Talk for Android, or WhatsApp for any device); however, these require you to use Wi-Fi or data roaming. Be aware that Europeans use the term “SMS” (“short message service”) to describe text messaging.
Data roaming means accessing an Internet signal that’s carried over the cellular telephone network. Prices have dropped dramatically in recent years, making this an affordable way to bridge gaps between Wi-Fi hotspots. You’ll pay far less if you set up an international data roaming plan. Most providers charge $25-30 for 100-120 megabytes of data. That’s plenty for basic Internet tasks—100 megabytes lets you view 100 websites or send/receive 1,000 text-based emails, but you’ll burn through that amount quickly by streaming videos or music. If your data use exceeds your plan amount, most providers will automatically kick in an additional 100- or 120-megabyte block for the same price. (For more on Wi-Fi versus data roaming—including strategies for conserving your data—see “Using Wi-Fi and Data Roaming,” below.)
With most service providers, international roaming (voice, text, and data) is disabled on your account unless you call to activate it. Before your trip, call your provider (or navigate their website), and cover the following topics:
• Confirm that your phone will work in Europe.
• Verify global roaming rates for voice calls, text messaging, and data roaming.
• Tell them which of those services you’d like to activate.
• Consider any add-on plans to bring down the cost of international calls, texts, or data roaming.
When you get home from Europe, be sure to cancel any add-on plans that you activated for your trip.
Some people would rather use their smartphone exclusively on Wi-Fi, and not worry about either voice or data charges. If that’s you, call your provider to be sure that international roaming options are deactivated on your account. To be double-sure, put your phone in “airplane mode,” then turn your Wi-Fi back on.
A good approach is to use free Wi-Fi wherever possible, and fill in the gaps with data roaming.
Wi-Fi (sometimes called “WLAN”)—Internet access through a wireless router—is readily available throughout Europe. But just like at home, the quality of the signal may vary. Be patient, and don’t get your hopes up. At accommodations, access is often free, but you may have to pay a fee, especially at expensive hotels. At hotels with thick stone walls, the Wi-Fi router in the lobby may not reach every room. If Wi-Fi is important to you, ask about it when you book—and be specific (“in the rooms?”). Get the password and network name at the front desk when you check in.
When you’re out and about, your best bet for finding free Wi-Fi is often at a café. They’ll usually tell you the password if you buy something. Or you can stroll down a café-lined street, smartphone in hand, checking for unsecured networks every few steps until you find one that works. Some towns have free public Wi-Fi in highly trafficked parks or piazzas. You may have to register before using it, or get a password at the TI.
Data roaming—that is, accessing the Internet through the cellular network—is handy when you can’t find useable Wi-Fi. Because you’ll pay by the megabyte (explained earlier), it’s best to limit how much data you use. Save bandwidth-gobbling tasks like Skyping, watching videos, or downloading apps or emails with large attachments until you’re on Wi-Fi. Switch your phone’s email settings from “push” to “fetch.” This means that you can choose to “fetch” (download) your messages when you’re on Wi-Fi rather than having them continuously “pushed” to your device. And be aware of apps—such as news, weather, and sports tickers—that automatically update. Check your phone’s settings to be sure that none of your apps are set to “use cellular data.”
I like the safeguard of manually turning off data roaming on my phone whenever I’m not actively using it. To turn off data and voice roaming, look in your phone’s menu—try checking under “cellular” or “network,” or ask your service provider how to do it. If you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on data roaming long enough for the task at hand, then turn it off again.
Figure out how to keep track of how much data you’ve used (in your phone’s menu, look for “cellular data usage”; you may have to reset the counter at the start of your trip). Some companies automatically send you a text message warning if you approach or exceed your limit.
There’s yet another option: If you’re traveling with an unlocked smartphone (explained later), you can buy a SIM card that also includes data; this can be far, far cheaper than data roaming through your home provider.
Using your American phone in Europe is easy, but it’s not always cheap. And unreliable Wi-Fi can make keeping in touch frustrating. If you’re reasonably technology-savvy, and would like to have the option of making lots of affordable calls, it’s worth getting comfortable with European SIM cards.
Here’s the basic idea: First you need an unlocked phone that works in Europe. Then, in Europe, shop around for a SIM card—the little data chip that inserts into your phone—to equip it with a European number. Turn on the phone, and bingo! You’ve got a European phone number (and access to cheaper European rates).
Your basic options are getting your existing phone unlocked, or buying a phone (either at home or in Europe).
Some phones are electronically “locked” so that you can’t switch SIM cards (keeping you tied to your original service provider). But it’s possible to “unlock” your phone—allowing you to replace the original SIM card. An unlocked phone is versatile; not only does it work with any European provider, but many US providers now offer no-contract, prepaid (or “pay-as-you-go”) alternatives that work with SIM technology.
You may already have an old, unused mobile phone in a drawer somewhere. Call your service provider and ask if they’ll send you the unlock code. Otherwise, you can buy one: Search an online shopping site for an “unlocked quad-band phone,” or buy one at a mobile-phone shop in Europe. Either way, a basic model typically costs $40 or less.
Once you have an unlocked phone, you’ll need to buy a SIM card—a small, fingernail-size chip that stores your phone number and other information. (A smaller variation called “micro-SIM” or “nano-SIM” cards—used in most iPhones—are less widely available.)
SIM cards are sold at mobile-phone shops, department-store electronics counters, and newsstands for $5–10, and usually include about that much prepaid calling credit (making the card itself virtually free). Because SIM cards are prepaid, there’s no contract and no commitment; I routinely buy one even if I’m in a country for only a few days.
However, an increasing number of countries—including Italy—require you to register the SIM card with your passport (an antiterrorism measure). This takes only a few minutes longer: The shop clerk will ask you to fill out a form, then submit it to the service provider. Sometimes you can register your own SIM card online. Either way, an hour or two after submitting the information, you’ll get a text welcoming you to that network. In Italy, the major mobile phone providers are Wind, TIM, Vodafone, and 3 (“Tre”). The vendor will make a copy of your passport to register the SIM card with the service provider.
When using a SIM card in its home country, it’s free to receive calls and texts, and it’s cheap to make calls—domestic calls average 20 cents per minute. You can also use SIM cards to call the US—sometimes very affordably (Lebara and Lycamobile, which operate in multiple European countries, let you call a US number for less than 10 cents a minute). Rates are higher if you’re roaming in another country. But if you bought the SIM card within the European Union, roaming fees are capped no matter where you travel throughout the EU (about 25 cents/minute to make calls, 7 cents/minute to receive calls, and 8 cents for a text message).
While you can buy SIM cards just about anywhere, I like to seek out a mobile-phone shop, where an English-speaking clerk can help explain my options, get my SIM card inserted and set up, and show me how to use it. When you buy your SIM card, ask about rates for domestic and international calls and texting, and about roaming fees. Also find out how to check your credit balance (usually you’ll key in a few digits and hit “Send”). You can top up your credit at any newsstand, tobacco shop, mobile-phone shop, or many other businesses (look for the SIM card’s logo in the window).
To insert your SIM card into the phone, locate the slot, which is usually on the side of the phone or behind the battery. Turning on the phone, you’ll be prompted to enter the “SIM PIN” (a code number that came with your card).
If you have an unlocked smartphone, you can look for a European SIM card that covers both voice and data. This is often much cheaper than paying for data roaming through your home provider.
If you prefer to travel without a smartphone or tablet, you can still stay in touch using landline telephones, hotel guest computers, and Internet cafés.
Phones in your hotel room can be great for local calls and for calls using cheap international phone cards (described in the sidebar). Many hotels charge a fee for local and “toll-free” as well as long-distance or international calls—always ask for the rates before you dial. Since you’ll never be charged for receiving calls, it can be more affordable to have someone from the US call you in your room.
While public pay phones are on the endangered species list, you’ll still see them in post offices and train stations. Pay phones generally come with multilingual instructions. Most public phones work with insertable phone cards (described in the sidebar).
You’ll see many cheap call shops that advertise low rates to faraway lands, often in train-station neighborhoods. While these target immigrants who want to call home cheaply, tourists can use them, too. Before making your call, be completely clear on the rates.
Finding public Internet terminals in Europe is no problem. Many hotels have a computer in the lobby for guests to use. Otherwise, head for an Internet café, or ask the TI or your hotelier for the nearest place to access the Internet.
European computers typically use non-American keyboards. A few letters are switched around, and command keys are labeled in the local language. Many European keyboards have an “Alt Gr” key (for “Alternate Graphics”) to the right of the space bar; press this to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. Italian keyboards are a little different from ours; to type an @ symbol, press the “Alt Gr” key and the key that shows the @ symbol. If you can’t locate a special character (such as the @ symbol), simply copy it (Ctrl-C) from a Web page and paste it (Ctrl-V) into your email message.
Whether you’re accessing the Internet with your own device or at a public terminal, using a shared network or computer comes with the potential for increased security risks. Ask the hotel or café for the specific name of their Wi-Fi network, and make sure you log on to that exact one; hackers sometimes create a bogus hotspot with a similar or vague name (such as “Hotel Europa Free Wi-Fi”). It’s better if a network uses a password (especially a hard-to-guess one) rather than being open to the world.
While traveling, you may want to monitor your online banking or credit-card statements for unauthorized transactions, or to take care of other personal-finance chores, but Internet security experts advise against accessing these sites over Wi-Fi. If you need to log on to a banking website, try to do so on a secure hard-wired connection or by using your bank’s app over a mobile telephone network, which is harder to hack.
If using a credit card online, make sure that the site is secure. Most browsers display a little padlock icon, and the URL begins with https instead of http. Never send a credit-card number over a website that doesn’t begin with https.
If you’re not convinced a connection is secure, avoid accessing any sites (such as your bank’s) that could be vulnerable to fraud.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov and search for “Know Before You Go.”
Mail service in Italy has improved over the last few years, but even so, mail nothing precious from an Italian post office. For quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com).
If you’re debating between public transportation and car rental, consider these factors: Cars are best for three or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those scouring the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, and city-to-city travelers. While a car gives you more freedom, trains and buses zip you effortlessly and scenically from city to city, usually dropping you in the center, often near a TI.
Considering how handy and affordable Italy’s trains and buses are (and that you’re likely to go both broke and crazy driving in Italian cities), I’d do most of Italy by public transportation. If you want to drive, consider doing the big, intense stuff (Rome, Naples area, Milan, Florence, and Venice) by train or bus and renting a car for the hill towns of central Italy and for the Dolomites. A car is a worthless headache on the Riviera and in the Lake Como area.
In this section, I’ll cover specifics on traveling by train, bus, and car in Italy.
To travel by train affordably in Italy, you can simply buy tickets as you go. Ticket machines in stations are easy to use (see “Buying Tickets,” later), so you can usually avoid long lines at ticket windows. Pay all ticket costs in the station before you board, or you’ll pay a penalty on the train. For travelers ready to lock in dates and times weeks or months in advance, buying nonrefundable tickets online can cut costs in half.
Types of Trains: Most trains in Italy are operated by the state-run Trenitalia company (www.trenitalia.com, a.k.a. Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane, abbreviated FS or FSI). Since ticket prices depend on the speed of the train, it helps to know the different types of trains: pokey R or REG (regionali); medium-speed RV (regionale veloce), IR (InterRegio), D (diretto), and E (espresso); fast IC (InterCity) and EC (EuroCity); and super-fast Frecce trains: Frecciabianca (“White Arrow”), Frecciargento (“Silver Arrow”), and Frecciarossa (“Red Arrow”). If you’re traveling with a rail pass (covered later), note that reservations are optional for IC trains, but required for EC and international trains (€5) and for Frecce trains (€10). Reservations are optional for rail-pass holders on IC trains, and you can’t make reservations for regional trains, such as most Rome-Civitavecchia connections.
On high-speed routes between major cities (Venice-Padua-Bologna-Florence-Rome and Turin-Milan-Bologna-Florence-Rome), Trenitalia has a private competitor called Italo. The trains run at more or less the same speed as Trenitalia’s high-speed trains, but with fewer departures, and also offer discounts for tickets booked well in advance. In some cities (most notably Rome and Milan), their trains use a secondary station rather than the main one: If taking an Italo train, pay attention to which station you need. Italo does not currently accept rail passes, but its affordable fares make it worth considering for long-haul point-to-point tickets. You can book in person (look for Italo ticket offices or red machines—tickets not sold through Trenitalia), by phone (tel. 06-0708), or on their user-friendly website (www.italotreno.it).
Schedules: At the train station, the easiest way to check schedules is at a handy automated ticket machine (described later, under “Buying Tickets”). Enter the desired date, time, and destination to see all of your options. Printed schedules are also posted at the station (departure—partenzi—posters are always yellow).
On the Web, check www.trenitalia.com and www.italotreno.it (domestic journeys only); for international trips, use www.bahn.com (Germany’s excellent all-Europe website). Trenitalia offers a single all-Italy telephone number for train information (24 hours daily, toll tel. 892-021, in Italian only, consider having your hotelier call for you). For Italo trains, call 06-0708. Newsstands sell up-to-date regional and all-Italy timetables (€5, ask for the orario ferroviaro).
Be aware that Trenitalia and Italo don’t cooperate at all. If you buy a ticket for one train line, it’s not valid on the other. Even if you’re just looking for schedule information, the company you ask will most likely ignore the other’s options.
Train tickets are a good value in Italy. Sample fares are shown on the map on here, though fares can vary for the same journey, mainly depending on the time of day, the speed of the train, and other factors. First-class tickets cost 30-50 percent more than second-class.
Le Frecce and Italo express trains each offer several classes of service, all with seats reserved: Standard, Premium, Business, or Executive on Frecciarossa; Smart, Prima, or Club on Italo; standard first and second on other trains. Buying up gives you a little more elbow room, or perhaps a better chance at seating a group together, if you’re buying on short notice. Ticket-price levels for both companies are Base (full fare, easily changeable or partly refundable before scheduled departure), Economy (one schedule change allowed before departure, for a fee), and Super Economy or Low Cost (sells out quickly, no refund or exchange). Discounted fares typically sell out several days before departure.
Speed vs. Savings: For point-to-point tickets on major routes, fast trains save time, but charge a premium. For example, super-fast Rome-Venice trains run hourly, cost €80 in second class, and make the trip in 3.5 hours, while infrequent InterCity trains (1-2/day) cost €46 and take 6.75 hours. Speedy Rome-Florence trains take 1.5 hours and cost €45 in second class, compared to InterCity trains that take 3 hours and cost €30. On routes like Verona-Padua-Venice in the north, regional trains cost considerably less than IC and ES express trains, and are only a little slower.
Discounts: Families with young children can get price breaks—kids ages 4 and under travel free; ages 4-11 travel at half-price. Ask for the “Offerta Familia” deal when buying tickets at a counter (or, at a ticket machine, choose “Yes” at the “Do you want ticket issue?” prompt, then choose “Familia”). With the discount, families of three to five people with at least one kid (age 12 or under) get 50 percent off the child fare, and 20 percent off the adult fare. The deal doesn’t apply to all trains at all times, but it’s worth checking out.
Discounts for youths and seniors require purchase of a separate card (Carta Verde for ages 12-26 costs €40; Carta Argento for ages 60 and over is €30), but the discount on tickets is so minor (10-15 percent, respectively, for domestic travel), it’s not worth it for most.
Buying Tickets: Avoid train-station ticket lines whenever possible by using the automated ticket machines found in station halls. You’ll be able to easily purchase tickets for travel within Italy (not international trains), make seat reservations, and even book a cuccetta (koo-CHEH-tah; overnight berth). If you do use the ticket windows, be sure you’re in the correct line. Key terms: biglietti (general tickets), prenotazioni (reservations), nazionali (domestic), and internazionali.
Trenitalia’s automated ticket machines (usually green-and-white, marked Biglietto Veloce/Fast Ticket) are user-friendly and found in all but the tiniest stations in Italy. You can pay by cash (they give change) or by debit or credit card (even for small amounts). Select English, then your destination. If you don’t immediately see the city you’re traveling to, keep keying in the spelling until it’s listed. You can choose from first- and second-class seats, request tickets for more than one traveler, and (on the high-speed Frecce trains) choose an aisle or window seat. Don’t select a discount rate without being sure that you meet the criteria (for example, Americans are not eligible for any EU or resident discounts). If you need to validate your ticket, you can do it in the same machine if you’re boarding your train right away.
For nearby destinations only, you can also buy tickets from the older, gray-and-blue machines marked Rete regionale (cash only, push button for English).
It’s cheaper to buy Trenitalia tickets in advance, either at the station or online at www.trenitalia.it. Advance planning gives you the best shot at Economy and Super Economy fares, and express trains can sell out on busy weekends or holidays. But because most Italian trains run frequently and prices are reasonable, you can also keep your travel plans flexible by purchasing full-fare tickets on the day of travel.
To buy tickets for high-speed Italo trains, look for a dedicated service counter (in most major rail stations), or a red automated ticket machine labeled Italo. You can also book Italo tickets by phone (tel. 06-0708) or online (www.italotreno.it).
You can’t buy international tickets from machines; for this and anything else that requires a real person, you must go to a ticket window. A good alternative, though, is to drop by a local travel agency. Agencies sell domestic and international tickets and make reservations. They charge a small fee, but the language barrier (and the lines) can be smaller than at the station’s ticket windows.
Validating Tickets: If your ticket includes a seat reservation on a specific train (biglietto con prenotazione), you’re all set and can just get on board. An open ticket with no seat reservation (it may say da convalidare or convalida) must always be validated—stamp it before you board in the machine near the platform (usually marked convalida biglietti or vidimazione). Once you validate a ticket, you must complete your trip within the timeframe shown on the ticket (within 6 hours for medium-distance trips; within 1.25 hours for short rides under 6 miles). If you forget to validate your ticket, go right away to the train conductor—before he comes to you—or you’ll pay a fine.
The Italy Pass for the Italian state railway may save you money if you’re taking three long train rides or prefer first-class travel, but don’t count on it for hop-on convenience on every train. Use the price map on here to add up your ticket costs (ticket prices on the map are for the fastest trains on a given route, many of which have reservation costs built in). Note that rail passes are not valid on Italo trains.
Rail-pass travelers must make separate seat reservations for the fastest trains between major Italian cities (Frecce trains, €10 each; EC trains, €5 each). Rail-pass travelers can just hop on InterCity trains (optional €5 reservation) and regional trains (no reservations possible). Making a reservation at a train station or travel agency is the same as the process to buy a ticket, so you may need to stand in line either way. Reservations for berths on overnight trains cost extra, aren’t covered by rail passes, and aren’t reflected on the ticket cost map.
A Global Pass can work well throughout most of Europe, but it’s a bad value for travel exclusively in Italy. A cheaper version, the Select Pass, allows you to tailor a pass to your trip, provided you’re traveling in four adjacent countries directly connected by rail or ferry. For instance, with a four-country pass allowing 10 days of train travel within a two-month period (about $850 for a single adult in 2014), you could choose France-Switzerland-Italy-Greece or Benelux-Germany-Austria-Italy. A France and Italy Pass combines just those two countries. Note that none of these passes cover direct day or night trains between Italy and Paris, which require a separate ticket. Before you buy a Select Pass or France and Italy Pass, consider how many travel days you’ll really need. Use the pass only for travel days that involve long hauls or several trips. Pay out of pocket for tickets on days you’re taking only short, cheap rides.
For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest train-ticket or rail-pass options for your trip, visit the Trains & Rail Passes section of my website at www.ricksteves.com/rail.
This section contains information on making seat reservations, storing baggage, avoiding theft, and dealing with strikes.
Seat Reservations: Trains can fill up, even in first class. If you’re on a tight schedule, you’ll want to reserve a few days ahead for fast trains (see “Types of Trains,” earlier). Purchasing tickets or passholder reservations onboard a train comes with a nasty penalty. Buying them at the station can be a time-waster unless you use the ticket machines.
If you don’t need a reservation, and if your train originates at your departure point (e.g., you’re catching the Milan-Venice train in Milan), arriving at least 15 minutes before the departure time will help you snare a seat.
On the platforms of some major stations, posters showing the train composition (composizione principali treni) indicate where first- and second-class cars will line up when the trains arrive (letters on the poster are supposed to correspond to letters posted over the platform—but they don’t always). Other stations may post the order of the cars on video screens along the track shortly before the train arrives.
Since most trains allow you to make reservations up to the time of departure, conductors post a list of the reservable and non-reservable seat rows (sometimes in English) in each train car’s vestibule. This means that if you board a crowded train and get one of the last seats, you may be ousted when the reservation-holder comes along.
Baggage Storage: Many stations have a deposito bagagli where you can safely leave your bag for €6 per 5-hour period or €17 per 24 hours (payable when you pick up the bag, double-check closing hours; they may ask to photocopy your passport). Because of security concerns, no Italian stations have lockers.
Theft Concerns: In big cities, train stations are rife with thieves and con artists. Unemployed people lurk around the station trying to skim tips (or worse) from unsuspecting tourists. If someone helps you to find your train or carry your bags, be aware that they are not an official porter; they are simply hoping for some cash. And if someone other than a uniformed railway employee tries to help you use the ticket machines, it’s safest to politely refuse.
Italian trains are famous for their thieves. Never leave a bag unattended. Police do ride the trains, cutting down on theft. Still, for an overnight trip, I’d feel safe only in a cuccetta (a bunk in a special sleeping car with an attendant who keeps track of who comes and goes while you sleep—approximately €20 in a 6-bed compartment, €26 in a less-cramped four-bed compartment, €50 in a more private, double compartment).
Strikes: Strikes, which are common, generally last a day (often a Friday). Train employees will simply explain, “Sciopero” (strike). But in actuality, sporadic trains, following no particular schedule, lumber down the tracks during most strikes. When a strike is pending, travel agencies (and hoteliers) can check online for you to see when the strike goes into effect and which trains will continue to run. Revised schedules may be posted in Italian at stations, and station personnel still working can often tell you what trains are expected to run. If I need to get somewhere and know a strike is imminent, I leave early (heading off the strike, which often begins at 9:00), or I just go to the station with extra patience in tow and hop on anything rolling in the direction I want to go.
You can usually get anywhere you want to in Italy by bus...as long as you’re not in a hurry and you plan ahead, using bus schedules (pick up at local TIs). For reaching small towns, buses are sometimes the only option if you don’t have a car. In many hill towns, trains leave you at a station in the valley far below, while buses bring you right up into the thick of things. (If the bus stop or station is below town, sometimes an escalator or elevator helps get you up into town—ask around.)
Larger towns have a long-distance bus station (stazione degli autobus), with ticket windows and several stalls (usually labeled corsia, stallo, or binario). Smaller towns—where buses are more useful—just have a central bus stop (fermata), likely along the main road or on the main square, and maybe several more scattered around town. In small towns, buy bus tickets at newsstands or tobacco shops (with the big T signs). When buying your ticket, confirm the departure point (“Dov’è la fermata?”), and once there, double-check that the posted schedule lists your destination and departure time. In general, orange buses are local city buses, and blue buses are for long distances.
Once the bus arrives, confirm the destination with the driver. You are expected to stow big backpacks underneath the bus (open the luggage compartment yourself if it’s closed).
Sundays and holidays are problematic; even from large cities schedules are sparse, departing buses are jam-packed, and ticket offices are often closed. Plan ahead and buy your ticket in advance. Most travel agencies book bus (and train) tickets for just a small fee.
If you’re renting a car in Italy, bring your driver’s license. You’re also required to have an International Driving Permit—an official translation of your driver’s license (sold at your local AAA office for $15 plus the cost of two passport-type photos; see www.aaa.com). While that’s the letter of the law, I’ve often rented cars in Italy without having this permit. If all goes well, you’ll likely never be asked to show the permit—but it’s a must if you end up dealing with the police.
Rental companies require you to be at least 21 years old and to have held your license for one year. Drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young-driver surcharge, and some rental companies do not rent to anyone 75 or older. If you’re considered too young or old, look into leasing (covered later), which has less-stringent age restrictions.
Research car rentals before you go. It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US. Call several companies or look online to compare rates.
Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. It can be cheaper to use a consolidator, such as Auto Europe/Kemwel (www.autoeurope.com) or Europe by Car (www.europebycar.com), which compares rates at several companies to get you the best deal. Because you’re working with a middleman, it’s especially important to ask in advance about add-on fees and restrictions.
Regardless of the car-rental company you choose, always read the fine print carefully for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.” You may need to query rental agents pointedly to find out your actual cost.
For the best deal, rent by the week with unlimited mileage. To save money on fuel, ask for a diesel car. I normally rent the smallest, least-expensive model with a stick shift (generally much cheaper than an automatic). Almost all rentals are manual by default, so if you need an automatic, request one in advance; be aware that these cars are often larger models (not as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads). Roads and parking spaces are narrow in Italy, so you’ll do yourself a favor by renting the smallest car that meets your needs.
Figure on paying roughly $200 for a one-week rental. Allow extra for insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. For trips of three weeks or more, look into leasing (see here); you’ll save money on insurance and taxes. Big companies have offices in most cities; ask whether they can pick you up at your hotel. Small local rental companies can be cheaper but aren’t as flexible.
Compare pick-up costs (downtown can be less expensive than the airport) and explore drop-off options (south of Rome can be a problem). Always check the hours of the location you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When selecting a location, don’t trust the agency’s description of “downtown” or “city center.” In some cases, a “downtown” branch can be on the outskirts of the city—a long, costly taxi ride from the center. Before choosing, plug the addresses into a mapping website. You may find that the “train station” location is handier. On the other hand, returning a car at a big-city train station or downtown agency can be tricky; get precise details on the car drop-off location and hours, and allow ample time to find it.
When you pick up the rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Find out how your car’s lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded).
When dropping off the car, be aware that most Italian cities have a “ZTL” limited-traffic zone that’s carefully monitored by cameras. If your drop-off point is near this zone, get very clear directions on how to get there without crossing the line and getting a big fine.
When returning the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take before-and-after pictures of the vehicle as proof of its condition.
When renting a car in Europe, you have several alternatives for your digital navigator: Use your smartphone’s online mapping app, download an offline map app, or rent a GPS device with your rental car (or bring your own GPS device from home).
Online mapping apps used to be prohibitively expensive for overseas travelers—but that was before most carriers started offering affordable international data plans. If you’re already getting a data plan for your trip, this is probably the way to go (see “Using Your American Smartphone in Europe,” earlier).
A number of well-designed apps allow you much of the convenience of online maps without any costly demands on your data plan. City Maps 2Go is one of the most popular of these; OffMaps, Google Maps, and Navfree also all offer good, zoomable offline maps for much of Europe (some are better for driving, while others are better for navigating cities on foot).
Some drivers prefer using a dedicated GPS unit—not only to avoid the data-roaming fees, but because a stand-alone GPS can be easier to operate (important if you’re driving solo). The major downside: It’s expensive—around $10-30 per day. Also, your car’s GPS unit may only come loaded with maps for its home country—if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure your device’s language is set to English before you drive off. If you have a portable GPS device at home, you can take that instead. Many American GPS devices come loaded with US maps only—you’ll need to buy and download European maps before your trip. This option is far less expensive than renting a GPS unit.
Accidents can happen anywhere, but when you’re on vacation, the last thing you need is stress over car insurance. When you rent a car, you’re liable for a very high deductible, sometimes equal to the entire value of the car. Limit your financial risk in case of an accident by choosing one of these two options: Buy Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage from the car-rental company (figure roughly 30 percent extra), or get coverage through your credit card (free, but more complicated).
In Italy, most car-rental companies’ rates automatically include CDW coverage. Even if you try to decline CDW when you reserve your Italian car, you may find when you show up at the counter that you must buy it after all.
While each rental company has its own variation, basic CDW costs $10-30 a day and reduces your liability, but does not eliminate it. When you pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, there’s a catch. You’ll technically have to decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company, which means they can place a hold on your card for up to the full value of the car. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges with your credit-card company. Before you decide on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
For more on car-rental insurance, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw.
Theft Insurance: Note that theft insurance (separate from CDW insurance) is mandatory in Italy. The insurance usually costs about $15-20 a day, payable when you pick up the car.
For trips of three weeks or more, consider leasing (which automatically includes zero-deductible collision and theft insurance). By technically buying and then selling back the car, you save lots of money on tax and insurance. Leasing provides you a brand-new car with unlimited mileage and a 24-hour emergency assistance program. You can lease for as little as 21 days to as long as five months. Car leases must be arranged from the US. One of many companies offering affordable lease packages is Europe by Car (www.europebycar.com/lease).
Driving in Italy can be scary—a video game for keeps, and you only get one quarter. Italian drivers can be aggressive. They drive fast and tailgate as if it were required. They pass where Americans are taught not to—on blind corners and just before tunnels. Roads have narrow shoulders or none at all. Driving in the countryside is less stressful than driving through urban areas or on busy highways, but stay alert. On one-lane roads, larger vehicles have the right-of-way. If you’re on a truckers’ route, stifle your Good Samaritan impulse when you see provocatively dressed women standing by camper-vans at the side of the road; they’re not having car trouble.
Road Rules: Stay out of restricted traffic zones or you’ll risk huge fines. Car traffic is restricted in many city centers. Don’t drive or park in any area that has a sign reading Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL, often shown above a red circle—see image). If you do, your license plate will likely be photographed and a hefty (€100-plus) ticket mailed to your home without your ever having met a cop. Bumbling in and out of these zones can net you multiple fines. If your hotel is within a restricted area, it’s best to ask your hotelier to direct you to parking outside the zone. (Although your hotelier can register your car as an authorized vehicle permitted to enter the zone, this usually isn’t worth the hassle.) If you get a ticket, it could take months to show up (for specifics relating to Tuscany, see www.bella-toscana.com/traffic_violations_italy.htm).
Be aware of typical European road rules. For example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times, and it’s generally illegal to drive while using your mobile phone without a hands-free headset. Seatbelts are mandatory, and children under age 12 must ride in child-safety or booster seats. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light, unless there is a sign or signal specifically authorizing it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn about your destination” box, then click on “Travel and Transportation”).
Tolls: Italy’s freeway system, the autostrada, is as good as our interstate system, but you’ll pay a toll (for costs, use the trip-planning tool at www.autostrade.it or search “European Tolls” on www.theaa.com). While I favor the freeways because I feel they’re safer and less nerve-racking than smaller roads, savvy local drivers know which toll-free superstradas are actually faster and more direct than the autostrada (e.g., Florence to Pisa). In some cases, if you have some time to spare, scenic smaller roads can be worth the extra hassle.
Fuel: Fuel is expensive—often about €2 per liter ($8.50/gallon). Diesel cars are more common in Europe than back home, so be sure you know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Gas pumps are color-coded: green for unleaded (senza piombo), black for diesel (gasolio). Autostrada rest stops are self-service stations open daily without a siesta break. Many 24-hour-a-day stations are entirely automated. Small-town stations are usually cheaper and offer full service but shorter hours.
Maps and Signage: A big, detailed regional road map (buy one at a newsstand, gas station, or bookstore) and a semiskilled navigator are essential. Learn the universal road signs (explained in charts in most road atlases and at service stations). Although roads are numbered on maps, actual road signs give just a city name on them (for example, if you were heading west out of Venice, the map would be marked “route S-11” on your map—but you’d follow signs to Padua, the next town along this road). The signs are inconsistent: They may direct you to the nearest big city or simply the next town along the route.
Theft: Cars are routinely vandalized and stolen. Thieves easily recognize rental cars and assume they are filled with a tourist’s gear. Be sure all of your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk, or even better, with you or in your room.
Parking: White lines generally mean parking is free. Yellow lines mean that parking is reserved for residents only (who have permits). Blue lines mean you’ll have to pay—usually €1.50 per hour (use machine, leave time-stamped receipt on dashboard). Study the signs. Often the free zones have a 30- or 60-minute time limit. Signs showing a street cleaner and a day of the week indicate which day the street is cleaned; there’s a €100 tow-fee incentive to learn the days of the week in Italian.
Zona disco has nothing to do with dancing. Italian cars come equipped with a time disk (a cardboard clock), which you set at your arrival time and lay on the dashboard so the attendant knows how long you’ve been parked. This is a fine system that all drivers should take advantage of. (If your rental car doesn’t come with a zona disco, pick one up at a tobacco shop. In a pinch, just write your arrival time on a piece of paper and place it on the dashboard.)
Garages are safe, save time, and help you avoid the stress of parking tickets. Take the parking voucher with you to pay the cashier before you leave.
The best comparison search engine for both international and intra-European flights is www.kayak.com. For inexpensive flights within Europe, try www.skyscanner.com or www.hipmunk.com; for inexpensive international flights, try www.vayama.com.
Flying to Europe: Start looking for international flights four to five months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Off-season tickets can be purchased a month or so in advance. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see our hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at www.ricksteves.com/hub-airports.
Flying within Europe: If you’re considering a train ride that’s more than five hours long, a flight may save you both time and money. When comparing your options, factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and how early you’ll need to arrive to check in.
Well-known cheapo airlines include easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com).
Be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying on the cheap: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal or nonexistent customer service, treks to airports far outside town, and stingy baggage allowances with steep overage fees. If you’re traveling with lots of luggage, a cheap flight can quickly become a bad deal. To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print before you book.
Rick Steves Italy 2015 is one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country guidebooks, city guidebooks (Rome, Florence, Paris, London, etc.), Snapshot guides (excerpted chapters from my country guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on Rome, Florence, Venice, and other big cities), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. Most of my titles are available as ebooks. My phrase books—for Italian, French, German, Spanish, and Portuguese—are practical and budget-oriented. My other books include Europe 101 (a crash course on art and history designed for travelers); Mediterranean Cruise Ports and Northern European Cruise Ports (how to make the most of your time in port); and Travel as a Political Act (a travelogue sprinkled with tips for bringing home a global perspective). A more complete list of my titles appears near the end of this book.
Video: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers European destinations in 100 shows, with 17 episodes on Italy. To watch full episodes online for free, see www.ricksteves.com/tv. Or to raise your travel I.Q. with video versions of our popular classes, such as Michelangelo’s Italy and Italy Travel Skills, see www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
Audio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. I’ve also produced free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights and neighborhoods in Florence, Rome, Venice, Assisi, and more. All of this audio content is available for free at Rick Steves Audio Europe, an extensive online library organized by destination. Choose whatever interests you, and download it for free via the Rick Steves Audio Europe app, www.ricksteves.com/audioeurope, iTunes, or Google Play.
The black-and-white maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended places and get to local TIs, where you can pick up more in-depth maps of cities and regions (usually free). Better maps are sold at newsstands and bookstores. Before you buy a map, look at it to be sure it has the level of detail you want. Drivers will want to pick up a good, detailed map in Europe (I’d recommend a 1:200,000- or 1:300,000-scale map).
To learn more about Italy past and present, check out a few of these books or films.
For the classics of Italian history, look to Machiavelli’s The Prince and Florentine Histories. Written in the 18th century, Edward Gibbon’s Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire is the landmark history of ancient Rome.
Travelers’ Tales Italy (Calcagno) is an excellent compilation of travel writing. Susan Cahill collected travelogues by female authors in Desiring Italy. In Italian Days, Barbara Grizzuti Harrison crafts travel essays on destinations ranging from Milan to Naples.
Italian Neighbors (Parks) describes life as an Englishman in a small Italian town, while The Italians (Barzini), written by an Italian, sheds light on the national character of this fascinating country.
Florence history buffs would enjoy reading the story of the Renaissance city’s first family, The House of Medici (Hibbert). Brunelleschi’s Dome (King) describes the trials involved with building Florence’s magnificent Duomo. Under the Tuscan Sun was a bestseller for Frances Mayes (and is better than the movie of the same name).
Out of Paul Hofmann’s multiple books about Italy, The Seasons of Rome is the favorite among readers. Elizabeth Gilbert’s eloquent Eat, Pray, Love describes her time in Rome (in the “Eat” section). David Macaulay’s illustrated books about the Eternal City—Rome Antics and City: A Story of Roman Planning and Construction—please both kids and adults.
For a solid overview of Venice, try A History of Venice (Norwich). Mary McCarthy’s Venice Observed is a well-written memoir. In The City of Falling Angels, John Berendt tells the real-life mystery of the La Fenice Opera House fire.
For a true story about the Sicilian Mafia, consider Excellent Cadavers (Stille). Midnight in Sicily (Robb) offers a good general history of the Mob. In the memoir Christ Stopped at Eboli: The Story of a Year, Carlo Levi describes his banishment to southern Italy.
Pomp and Sustenance: Twenty-Five Centuries of Sicilian Food (Simeti) is both a cookbook and an historical overview. Foodies also like Italy for the Gourmet Traveler (Plotkin) and The Marling Menu-Master for Italy.
Fans of classical literature will want to read Dante’s Divine Comedy and Boccaccio’s Decameron. Among the Shakespeare plays set in Italy are Romeo and Juliet (Verona), The Merchant of Venice, Much Ado About Nothing (Sicily), The Two Gentlemen of Verona, and The Taming of the Shrew (Padua).
In his 18th-century collection of writings titled Italian Journey, Goethe describes his travels to Rome, Sicily, and Naples. Henry James often wrote stories with an Italian theme, and three recommended books—The Wings of the Dove, Italian Hours, and The Aspern Papers and Other Stories—use Venice as their backdrop. Another classic tale is Thomas Mann’s Death in Venice.
For historical fiction that brings ancient Rome to life, try The First Man in Rome (McCullough) and I, Claudius (Graves). Pompeii (Harris), set in the ancient doomed city, tells of a young man’s rescue attempt. The Agony and the Ecstasy (Stone) recounts Michelangelo’s struggle to paint the Sistine Chapel (and later became a Charlton Heston movie).
In the 19th and early 20th centuries, great European writers fell in love with Florence. Two great books from this time are George Eliot’s Romola and E. M. Forster’s A Room with a View. Modern novels with Florence as the setting include The Passion of Artemisia (Vreeland), The Sixteen Pleasures (Hellenga), Birth of Venus (Dunant), and Galileo’s Daughter (Sobel).
If Venice is on your itinerary, consider reading Invisible Cities (Calvino), in which “Marco Polo” tells of fantastical cities that may simply be facets of Venice; The Passion (Winterson), a magical realist tale of love; and In the Company of the Courtesan (Dunant), a chronicle of romantic intrigue in Renaissance Venice.
Regarded as one of the most important works of Italian literature, The Leopard (di Lampedusa) describes Sicilian life during the Risorgimento. A Bell for Adano, set in Sicily, won John Hersey the Pulitzer Prize in 1945. A Soldier of the Great War (Helprin)—which takes place partially in the Italian Alps and partially in Sicily—is a brutal tale set in World War I. A Thread of Grace (Russell) follows a group of Jews trying to find a safe haven in WWII Italy.
Roberto Rossellini’s Open City (1945) and Vittorio de Sica’s Bicycle Thieves (1949), both classics of Italian Neorealism, continue to inspire audiences today.
In Roman Holiday (1953), Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck sightsee the city on his scooter. Two campy, big-budget Hollywood flicks bring ancient Rome to life: Ben-Hur (1959) and Spartacus (1960). In La Dolce Vita (1961), Fellini captures the Roman character, while Gladiator (2000) was a crowd-pleaser and an Academy Award winner.
1900 (1977) is Bernardo Bertolucci’s epic tale of life under fascism; it stars Robert De Niro and Gérard Depardieu.
A Room with a View (1986), a close adaptation of the classic novel, captures Florence’s appeal to turn-of-the-century English travelers. The Oscar-winning Life Is Beautiful (1997) has sections set in a Tuscan town.
Cinema Paradiso (1990), about a film projectionist and a little boy in post-WWII Sicily, won the Oscar for Best Foreign Picture. In Enchanted April (1991), filmed in Portofino, an all-star British cast falls in love, discusses relationships, eats well, and takes naps in the sun. Ciao, Professore! (1994) shows the influence of a grade-school teacher in Southern Italy. In Il Postino (1995), poet Pablo Neruda befriends his Italian postman.
In Bread and Tulips (2000), a harassed Italian housewife discovers beauty, love, and her true self in Venice. For an adrenaline-laced chase scene through Venice’s canals, see The Italian Job (2003).
Nuovomondo (2006, also called The Golden Door) tells the story of Sicilian immigrants leaving home for Ellis Island. The warmhearted epic Best of Youth (2003), a story of two brothers, takes place in many scenic Italian locations and gives you a good feel for the last several decades of Italian history.