Basics

SELF-SUFFICIENT STORE-CUPBOARD

ORGANIC VEGETABLE BROTH

Commercial stock cubes or granules are often high in salt and laced with additives. Making your own from fresh organic produce is a breeze – and since it freezes well you can make the most of a glut and simmer up some fragrant stock. A word of caution: tired old veggies are meant for the compost heap and not your stockpot. Cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage will lend an unpleasant funky taste to your broth and are best avoided.

If you know your vegetables are unsprayed and guaranteed organic, by all means add a handful or two of carrot or potato peelings, leafy tops or stems.

To make a sparklingly clear broth, bring the stock to a fast boil and then turn off the heat completely to let the vegetables sink to the bottom of the pot. Allow to stand for 30 minutes, then turn to a medium heat and simmer gently for an hour before straining and discarding the solids.

  1. Put all the ingredients in a large pot and bring to a fast boil. Turn off the heat, put on the lid and leave to steep for 30 minutes.
  2. Bring back to a simmer and cook gently for 1 hour. Strain through a colander and discard the solids. Reduce in volume to 2 litres and allow to cool completely before freezing for up to 1 month. It will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Makes 2 litres

COOK’S TIP:

Reduce the broth rapidly over high heat to make a concentrated liquid to use as a base for a rich sauce. Add chopped dried mushrooms and mushroom stems for a rich mushroom broth, or stir in 2 T (30 ml) tomato concentrate per 3 cups (750 ml) for a tomato broth to use in risottos or pasta dishes. Cook barley, pasta or rice in plenty of broth with some fresh herbs and diced vegetables for simple, nourishing soups when you are feeling poorly.

DUKKAH

Dukkah is healthy, moreish and far less expensive to make than buy. Serve dukkah with bowls of fruity extra-virgin olive oil and chunks of freshly baked bread for dipping: bread first into the oil, then into the dukkah, then into the mouth! Bake your own bread with a recipe from the Bake chapter.

  1. Roast the hazelnuts on a baking tray at 180 °C until the skins darken. Rub the warm nuts in a clean kitchen towel until the skins come off. Set to one side to cool.
  2. Now toast the sesame, coriander and cumin seeds for about 5 minutes until lightly golden brown. Cool completely.
  3. Grind all the ingredients together in a food processor until crumbly – it must not be a powder. It will keep in a cool place in an airtight container for about 1 week.

Makes about 350 g

THAI GREEN CURRY PASTE

  1. Process all the ingredients together into a smooth paste. Spoon into a Ziploc bag or airtight container and keep in the fridge for up to 1 month.

Makes about 300 ml

HARISSA

  1. Process all the ingredients except the olive oil to a smooth paste, then drizzle the oil into the bowl while the blade is running to moisten the harissa.
  2. Spoon into sterilised glass jars and drizzle more olive oil on top to seal the surface. Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Makes about 300 ml

MISO GRAVY

  1. To make the miso gravy, brown the flour in the olive oil in a saucepan over mild heat for a few minutes until it smells aromatic and nutty.
  2. Dissolve the miso in the warm water and whisk slowly into the flour. Keep stirring until thickened.
  3. Simmer gently for 8–10 minutes, then add the soy sauce or tamari and balsamic glaze to taste. Add salt if you find it necessary.

Makes about 1 1⁄2 (375 ml) cups

HOISIN SAUCE

  1. Stir the honey or molasses into the vinegar until dissolved and then add the remaining ingredients. Stir very well until smooth.
  2. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 month.

Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)

SWEET AND TANGY BBQ SAUCE

This is great on vegetables such as aubergines, sweet potato slices, courgettes, field mushrooms and corn on the cob.

  1. Blend all the ingredients together until smooth and pour over vegetables as desired.
  2. Marinate for 1 hour to 2 days in the fridge.
  3. To prepare, remove the vegetables from the marinade and simmer the remaining sauce until thickened to use as a baste during grilling or roasting.

Makes about 300 ml

CREAMY GREEK SALAD DRESSING

In this dressing the feta is blended into the sauce to add a lovely salty tang. It’s perfect drizzled over a bowl of sun-ripened tomatoes, juicy cucumbers, black olives, radishes and red onion.

  1. Blend the garlic, vinegar or lemon juice, feta, yoghurt, olive oil and origanum together until smooth.
  2. Adjust the seasoning – it might be salty enough. If it’s too thick, add a few tablespoons of water. Keep in an airtight contained in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Makes about 1 1⁄2 cups (375 ml)

ORANGE-HAZELNUT VINAIGRETTE

I love this dressing with a mixture of baby salad leaves, green herbs and some chopped, toasted hazelnuts scattered over. – Sonia

  1. Whisk the mustard with the salt, pepper, vinegar and juice in a small jug or bowl.
  2. Slowly add the oils while whisking so the dressing emulsifies. Add the grated orange zest if using.
  3. Store in a clean, dry glass bottle or jar in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. If the dressing separates while standing, just give it a good whisk or shake in the jar to emulsify again.

Makes about 100 ml

GINGER MISO DRESSING

Use mild white miso to make this dressing that pairs very well with steamed green beans or broccoli, and grilled courgettes or aubergines. It’s good with eggs, avocado and asparagus too.

  1. Warm the ingredients together in a saucepan over low heat until the miso and sugar have dissolved.
  2. Whisk until smooth and leave to cool completely before straining through a sieve into a jar. It will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Makes 1⁄2 cup (125 ml)

LOW-FAT CREAMY DRESSING

In America this is known as ‘ranch dressing’ and is commonly served with crisp lettuces or salads containing avocado, spinach, cheese and nuts. It’s perfect for pasta and potato salads. Using non-fat mayonnaise and yoghurt with the buttermilk achieves a creamy texture with precious little fat content.
  1. Whisk all the ingredients together until very smooth, adding the lemon juice last to taste.
  2. Decant into a clean, glass jar with a tight-fitting lid and keep in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Makes about 300 ml

FAT-FREE TOFU MAYONNAISE

Use silken, not firm, tofu for this vegan version of mayonnaise. Add 1 T (15 ml) olive oil if you don’t mind a bit of oil in your diet.

  1. Whisk or process all the ingredients together until very smooth and allow to stand for 30 minutes for the flavours to develop. This will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)

HUMMUS

Using canned chickpeas for homemade hummus certainly speeds things up considerably, but once in a while you might like to make an extra effort and soak some organic chickpeas overnight and simmer them slowly until tender. Tahini is sesame paste that can be bought from most good health shops or the health-food section of your supermarket, and lasts almost forever in the fridge.

  1. Process the chickpeas, garlic, tahini, cumin and half the olive oil together until finely chopped. Stop the motor and push the paste down the sides of the bowl with a spatula before continuing.
  2. Add the lemon juice, salt and pepper and continue processing until the desired consistency is reached – add 2 T (30 ml) water if you like your hummus very smooth and almost satiny. Sprinkle with some paprika and a drizzle of olive oil to serve.

Makes about 2 3⁄4 cups

BASIL OIL

  1. To make the basil oil, bring a large pot of water to the boil. Plunge the basil into the boiling water for 30 seconds and remove quickly. Rinse briefly under cold water and pat dry with absorbent paper towel.
  2. Blend the basil in a liquidiser with the olive oil until very smooth. Pour into a sterilised screw-top glass jar and refrigerate until needed. It will keep for about 2 weeks.

Makes about 1 1⁄2 cups (375 ml)

RICOTTA

Ricotta is extremely easy to make provided you use a thermometer. Muslin can be tricky to find, so use a clean, lightly rinsed J-cloth instead to line the strainer.

  1. Place a large strainer or fine-holed colander in the sink and line with dampened muslin or a rinsed clean J-cloth.
  2. Take a large stainless-steel pot (about 6 litre capacity) and gently heat the milk to 90 °C.
  3. Remove from the heat and whisk in the buttermilk. Let it stand. After a while the whey will start separating from the curd. After 10–15 minutes, when the curds and whey have completely separated, pour it into the lined strainer and leave to drain for about 1–2 hours.
  4. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until needed. Use within 3 days.

Makes about 4 cups (1 litre)

VANIE’S LEMON ATCHAR

Chef Vanie Padayachee kindly shared her recipe for traditional Indian lemon pickle, or atchar, with me. Serve as a condiment with curries or dhal. – Sonia

  1. Scrub the whole lemons under warm running water and put them in a pot with enough water to cover. Add the turmeric.
  2. Bring to a gentle boil and skim off any scum that forms on the surface. Boil for 10 minutes, then remove from the heat, scoop out the lemons with a slotted spoon and cool slightly.
  3. Quarter the lemons, place into a large non-reactive bowl and sprinkle generously with the salt.
  4. Warm the oil in a saucepan until tepid and add the pickle masala, garlic, curry leaves and chillies. Pour over the lemon quarters and stir gently to mix.
  5. Spoon the lemons into a 1 litre-capacity sterilised glass jar or four smaller 250 ml jars, and fill to 1 cm below the brim with oil. Screw on a sterilised lid(s).
  6. Allow to mature in a cool dark place for 2 weeks before using, turning the jar upside down every day. Refrigerate once opened and use within 1 month.

Makes about 4 cups (1 litre)

HOMEMADE YOGHURT

Plain, live culture yoghurt is a versatile ingredient in any cook’s kitchen. Add it to stews or curries, or spoon dollops onto your favourite warm bean or lentil salads. Or make iced lassi – an Indian beverage made from thinning plain yoghurt with some iced water before blending with either sweet or savoury flavourings like mango, banana or toasted cumin and fresh mint. It’s also a great tonic for sun-frazzled skin. And of course it makes a brilliant breakfast with some organic honey drizzled on top and a pinch of cinnamon sprinkled over, with or without granola. Have a go at this easy recipe. The trick is to keep the culturing yoghurt at a constant temperature of 38 °C, which is why a yoghurt maker or thermos flask works so well.

  1. Bring the milk to the boil in a large stainless-steel saucepan so that it bubbles to the brim of the pan. Let it bubble like that for 2 minutes.
  2. Remove from the heat immediately and cool to blood temperature – about 38 °C. You should be able to keep your finger in the milk for 10 seconds without it burning.
  3. Now gently stir in the natural yoghurt until it is thoroughly blended.
  4. Warm a glass bowl or jar or thermos flask by quickly pouring boiling water into the container and out again. Pour the yoghurt into the container.
  5. Leave undisturbed in a draught-free, warm place for 7–10 hours to set, after which it can be transferred to an airtight container and kept in the fridge. The cold stops further development of the bacteria that makes the yoghurt set.

COOK’S TIP:

Homemade yoghurt is thinner and not as smooth as the commercial variety. If you’d prefer a thicker, creamier texture, add 1–3 T (15–45 ml) skim milk powder to the milk when you boil it. If your yoghurt tastes overly acidic, it means the temperature at which it incubated was too high, and if it tastes too sweet, the temperature while culturing was too low. Using a wide-mouthed, pre-warmed thermos flask circumvents this problem, but some cooks prefer a commercial yoghurt maker. And remember to keep 1⁄4 cup (60 ml) aside to start your next batch of homemade yoghurt!

Makes 3 cups (750 ml)

LABNEH

These Middle-Eastern delights are commonly made from goat’s or ewe’s milk, and sold packed in oil in jars. Serve them freshly made, rolled in chopped herbs, black pepper or sesame and poppy seeds, or pack them into a sterilised jar, cover with good olive oil and keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. They make a lovely appetiser served with pita breads, olives and other meze. Labneh doesn’t have to be rolled into balls; it is also frequently served simply spooned into a dish to be scooped up with chunks of bread.

  1. Line a colander with a clean J-cloth that has been rinsed in water. Place the colander over a bowl large enough to catch any drips.
  2. Mix the yoghurt very well with the salt and pepper and spoon into the colander.
  3. Cover and leave overnight in the fridge – between 18 and 24 hours will do.
  4. Make the labneh balls by rolling teaspoonfuls between your palms. Put the balls on a clean baking tray lined with clingfilm, cover lightly with more clingfilm and leave in the fridge once more for 8–12 hours. This will firm the balls up and dry out any excess moisture.
  5. Layer the balls in a sterilised glass jar with the seasonings, cover with olive oil, seal and keep in the fridge for up to 1 month.
  6. Serve your labneh, perhaps by rolling in some finely chopped herbs, black pepper, paprika, seeds or chopped nuts.

Makes about 48

RICH TOMATO SAUCE

  1. Cook the onion in the olive oil in a pot until translucent and soft. Add the garlic and herbs and cook for 30 seconds.
  2. Add the tomatoes in their juice and the water. Season well and simmer for 10–15 minutes until thickened. The sauce is ready when a spoon dragged across the base of the pot leaves a trail.
  3. Mash the tomatoes with a potato masher and adjust the taste with a little sugar if too tart. Use hot or cold.

Makes about 3 cups (750 ml)

POTATO GNOCCHI

Use gnocchi on the day of making. This recipe does not freeze well. It is important to add the flour when the potato is still warm to ensure the gnocchi does not disintegrate.

  1. To make the gnocchi, cook the potatoes in a pot of boiling water until tender and drain. Turn off the heat, return the potatoes to the pot and put back on the still-hot stove. Allow to steam until all the moisture has evaporated.
  2. Mash the potatoes until very smooth. Beat in the seasoning and egg, stir vigorously and then add the milk and stir until smooth. Add the flour, nutmeg and herbs and blend well.
  3. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead with your hands until soft and smooth – if it is sticky, add another tablespoon of flour and knead in very well.
  4. Divide the dough into six parts and roll each into a 2 cm-thick cylinder. Roll lightly in flour and refrigerate on a baking tray for 10 minutes. Cut off 2 cm pieces and press each lightly with the tines of a fork.
  5. Bring a very large pot of salted water to a rollicking boil and cook 8–10 gnocchi at a time for 3–4 minutes until they float to the top. Scoop out with a slotted spoon into an oiled serving dish, and serve with a sauce of your choice.

Serves 4

GOMASIO

This delicious seasoned salt is a standby of macrobiotic cooking and one of my favourite kitchen condiments. The aromatic, nutty warmth adds extra texture and flavour to dishes when you’re trying to cut down on sodium. Add 1⁄4 t (1 ml) ground ginger for some zing, or 1 t (5 ml) ground toasted seaweed and use with eggs, noodles, steamed vegetables, brown rice or stir-fries. – Sonia

  1. Toast the seeds in a dry frying pan over medium heat until aromatic and lightly browned. They should crumble easily between your fingertips when ready.
  2. Add the salt and toast for a further 30 seconds or so. Leave to cool completely.
  3. Grind to the desired texture with a mortar and pestle or in a clean coffee/spice grinder – you may leave it fairly coarse to add chewiness to a dish. This will keep for up to 3 months in an airtight container.

Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)