The frontier between Thailand and Malaysia carves across the peninsula six degrees north of the equator, but the cultures of the two countries shade into each other much further north. According to official divisions, the southern Thais – the Thai Pak Tai – begin around Chumphon, and as you move further down the peninsula into Thailand’s deep south you’ll see ever more sarongs, yashmaks and towering mosques, and hear with increasing frequency a staccato dialect that baffles many Thais. Here too, you’ll come across caged singing doves outside many houses, as well as strange-looking areas spiked with tall metal poles, on which the cages are hung during regular cooing competitions; and you’ll spot huge, hump-backed Brahma bulls on the back of pick-up trucks, on their way to bullfights (in the Thai version, beast is pitted against beast, and the first to back off is the loser).
In Trang and Phatthalung provinces, the Muslim population is generally accepted as being Thai, but the inhabitants of the southernmost provinces – Satun, Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat and most of Songkhla – are ethnically more akin to the Malays: most of the 1.5 million followers of Islam here speak a dialect of Malay and write Jawi, an old modification of Arabic script to reflect Malay pronunciation. To add to the ethnic confusion, the region has a large urban population of Chinese, whose comparative wealth makes them stand out sharply from the Muslim farmers and fishermen.
The touristic interest in the deep south is currently all over on the beautiful west coast, where sheer limestone outcrops, pristine sands and fish-laden coral stretch down to the Malaysian border. Along Trang’s mainland coast, there’s a 30km stretch of attractive beaches, dotted with mangroves and impressive caves that can be explored by sea canoe, but the real draw down here is the offshore islands, which offer gorgeous panoramas and beaches, great snorkelling and small clusters of resorts. Apart from the tiny and remote but overcrowded honeypot of Ko Lipe, the other islands remain less developed, and scheduled boat services offer the intriguing possibility of island-hopping your way down from Phuket as far as Penang in Malaysia without setting foot on the peninsula. Yet, by going east from Trang, travellers find a slice of authentic rural Thailand at the lesser-visited Thale Noi protected wetland near Phattalung or decent beaches and Sino-Portuguese heritage at Songkhla, 30km northeast of Hat Yai.
arrival and getting aroundthe deep south
As well as the usual bus services, the area covered in this chapter is served by flights and trains to Trang and from the mainland to the islands.
By share-taxi The deep south has traditionally been the territory of share-taxis, which connect certain towns for about twice the fare of ordinary buses. They leave when full, which usually means six passengers – charter the whole car if you’re in a hurry.
By minivan A/c minibuses cover the same routes as share-taxis, but at lower prices. You’ll have a seat to yourself, and services usually run from major bus stations to a rough timetable. However, in town centres, they tend to leave as soon as they’re full.
By train Hat Yay is the deep south's major train hub, with several northbound trains to the Gulf coast and Bangkok, together with the unreliable southbound services to Sungai Kolok. Trang also has two convenient evening services to Bangkok.
Shutterstock
CRAB-EATING MACAQUE, KO TARUTAO NATIONAL MARINE PARK
Highlights
Ko Hai A variety of good resorts for all budgets and gorgeous views of the karst islands to the east, especially at sunset.
Tham Morakhot Ko Mook’s Emerald Cave, with its inland beach of powdery sand at the base of an awesome natural chimney, is best visited by kayak or chartered longtail boat.
Ko Kradan Remote island with a long, white, east-facing strand, crystal-clear waters, a reef for snorkellers to explore and a few diverse resorts.
Thale Noi Boat hop amidst lotus flowers in Thailand's biggest, yet undiscovered, waterfowl reserve.
Ko Tarutao Huge national park island with mangroves, limestone caves and jungle tracks to investigate, and the most unspoilt beaches in the area along its 26km west coast.
Hat Pattaya Though far from undiscovered, Ko Lipe’s main beach is a beautiful crescent of white sand as fine as flour that squeaks as you walk along it.
Highlights are marked on the map
The central area of the Malay peninsula first entered Thai history when it came under the sway of Sukhothai, probably around the beginning of the fourteenth century. Islam was introduced to the area by the end of that century, by which time Ayutthaya was taking a firmer grip on the peninsula. Songkhla and Pattani then rose to be the major cities, prospering on the goods passed through the two ports across the peninsula to avoid the pirates in the Straits of Malacca between Malaysia and Sumatra. More closely tied to the Muslim Malay states to the south, the Sultanate of Pattani began to rebel against the power of Ayutthaya in the sixteenth century, but the fight for self-determination only weakened Pattani’s strength. The town’s last rebellious fling was in 1902, after which it was definitively and brutally absorbed into the Thai kingdom, while its allies, Kedah, Kelantan and Trengganu, were transferred into the suzerainty of the British in Malaysia.
During World War II the Communist Party of Malaya made its home in the jungle around the Thai border to fight the occupying Japanese. After the war they turned their guns against the British colonialists, but having been excluded from power after independence, descended into general banditry and racketeering around Betong. The Thai authorities eventually succeeded in breaking up the bandit gangs in 1989 through a combination of pardons and bribes, but the stability of the region soon faced disruption from another source, a rise in Islamic militancy.
The troubles: 2004 to the present
Armed resistance to the Thai state by Muslim separatists had fluctuated at a relatively low level since the 1960s, but in early 2004 the violence escalated dramatically. Since then, there have been hundreds of deaths on both sides in the troubles: the insurgents have targeted Buddhist monks, police, soldiers, teachers and other civil servants, as well as attacking a train on the Hat Yai–Sungai Kolok line and setting off bombs in marketplaces, near tourist hotels and bars and at Hat Yai airport. Increasingly, they have attacked other Muslims who are seen to be too sympathetic to the Thai state.
Often writing the militants off as bandits, the authorities have stirred up hatred – and undermined moderate Muslim voices – by reacting violently, notably in crushing protests at Tak Bai and the much-revered Krue Se Mosque in Pattani in 2004, in which a total of over two hundred alleged insurgents died. In 2005, the government announced a serious state of emergency in Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat provinces, and imposed martial law here and in southern parts of Songkhla province. This, however, has exacerbated economic and unemployment problems in what is Thailand’s poorest region.
A large part of the problem is that a wide variety of shadowy groups – with names like the Pattani Islamic Mujahideen, the Barisan Revolusi Nasional-Coordinate and Runda Kumpulan Kecil – are operating against the government, generally working in small cells at village level without central control. Rather than religious issues, the most likely causes of their militancy are ethnic grievances. However, it’s unclear exactly who they are or what they want, and, faced with such shifting sands, so far all attempts to broker a ceasefire have failed.
Travel warning
Because of the ongoing violence in the deep south (see below), Western governments are currently advising their citizens not to travel to or through Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat and Songkhla provinces unless essential; following on from this, check if your insurance company covers travel in the affected areas. The four provinces encompass the city and transport hub of Hat Yai and several of the main border crossings to Malaysia: by rail from Hat Yai (and Bangkok) to Butterworth (near Penang in Malaysia) via Padang Besar and to Sungai Kolok; and by road from Hat Yai via Sadao, from Yala via Betong, and down the east coast to Kota Bharu. In practice, however, crossing from Hat Yay into Malaysia by train is a very popular and generally safe route used daily by many international travellers.
On the contrary, avoid the routes to Sungai Kolok, Betong and Kota Bharu as they pass through particularly volatile territory, with martial law declared in Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat provinces; however, martial law is only in effect in certain districts of Songkhla province, and not in Hat Yai itself.
The provinces of Trang and Satun are not affected, and it’s also possible to continue overland to Malaysia via Satun: by air-conditioned minibus from Satun to Kangar, or by ferry from Thammalang to the Malaysian island of Langkawi.
TRANG (also known as Taptieng) is a popular jumping-off point for travellers drawn south from the crowded sands of Krabi to the pristine beaches and islands of the nearby coast. The town, which prospers on rubber, oil palms, fisheries and low-key tourism, is a sociable place whose wide, clean streets are dotted with crumbling, wooden-shuttered houses. In the evening, the streets are festooned with colourful lights and, from Thursday to Sunday, the central square in front of the station hosts a lively market, while during the day, many of the town’s Chinese inhabitants hang out in the cafés, drinking the local filtered coffee. Trang’s Chinese population makes the Vegetarian Festival in October or November almost as frenetic as Phuket’s. You can also take a day-trip to nearby Kantang, 25km south of town with its well-preserved old train station.
arrival and departureTrang town
By plane Air Asia and Nok Air run daily flights between Bangkok and Trang airport (1hr 30min), which is 3km south of town. On arrival, a/c minibuses bring passengers downtown (B100/person), while on departure, you can charter a tuk-tuk or taxi (about B300/two people).
By train Two overnight trains from Bangkok (15–16hr) use a branch of the southern line to Trang and return to the capital at 1.30pm and 5.25pm. A daily third-class service (10.36am; 15min; B20) also runs to Kantang.
By bus Buses arrive at and depart from the new bus terminal on Thanon Phattalung (Highway 4), opposite Robinson department store, about 3km northeast of the centre, including an a/c bus service between Satun and Phuket four times daily. Shared songthaews (B20) shuttle between here and the train station.
Destinations Bangkok (5 daily; 12hr); Krabi (roughly every 30min; 2hr); Phuket (hourly; 5hr).
By minibus A/c minibuses to Pak Meng, Ban Chao Mai, Satun (via Langu), Ko Lanta (including drop-offs as far south as Hat Klong Nin; 6 daily; 3hr), Krabi, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Phattalung, Songkhla, Surat Thani and Hat Yai also use the new bus terminal on Thanon Phattalung. In high season, travel agents such as Trang Island Hopping Tour can arrange through tickets to Ko Lipe (B700–750), Ko Tarutao and Ko Bulon Lae (both B650), including an a/c minibus to Pak Bara (departing 9am) and the boat trip.
By share-taxi Share-taxis for Pak Bara, Satun and Krabi congregate at the old bus station on Thanon Huay Yod, on the north side of town (about 500m north of the junction with Thanon Wisetkul).
getting around
By rental car Avis (
02 251 1131–2, 
avisthailand.com) and Budget (075 572159, budget.co.th), both at the airport.
By motorbike Motorbikes can be rented at Sri Trang Hotel (see below), on Thanon Rama VI (B250/day).
information and tours
Tourist information TAT office on Thanon Huay Yod (daily 8.30am–4.30pm; 075 211 058) is located out of town, but Green House Coffee (see below), just east of the clock tower, distributes free city maps and information.
Tourist police Thanon Phattalung (Highway 4), about 2km northeast of the centre 075 211903 or 1155.
Travel agents The best travel agent in town is Trang Island Hopping Tour, with a desk at Fatimah, directly opposite the station at 28/2 Thanon Sathanee (082 804 0583, trang-all-tour.com, 
trangalltour@gmail.com). They offer one-day boat trips around the islands (B750 excluding the B200 national park entry fee) and day-trips and camping trips to Ko Rok (B3800 for 3D/2N), and inland excursions to waterfalls and caves (B1200), as well as trekking, bird-watching, rafting and kayaking.
Accommodation
Ban Aothong 25/28–31 Thanon Sathanee 075 290 192, facebook.com/banaothongandmyfriend; map. An overblown facade of multi-tiered roofs and gables announces this upmarket guesthouse, with its chunky wooden furniture, half-tester beds and rather kitsch decor. “Standard” double rooms are compact, some with no window, while the slightly pricier “superior” twins have more space, though the bathrooms are still small; all have a/c, hot showers, fridges and cable TV. B700
Hotel 23 (Jing Jing Hotel) 77–79 Thanon Rama VI, 075 218 077, facebook.com/hotel23trang; map. This affordable boutique hotel packs six spacious rooms that integrate modern plush beds and cute rattan furniture with the building's original wooden features. Bathrooms are clean and shared, but some of the a/c rooms (B500) come with private showers. Free coffee and tea for all guests is supplied. B300
Koh Teng Hotel 77–79 Thanon Rama VI 075 218622 or 075 218148; map. This characterful 1940s Chinese hotel is a little battered and dusty but offers large, mostly clean, basic en-suite rooms with cold showers, some with cable TV and a/c, above a popular restaurant and coffee shop that serves southern Thai and Chinese food and Western breakfasts. Fan B200, a/c B360
Mitree House 6–8 Thanon Sathani, 075 212292, facebook.com/mitreehouse; map. Interesting mid-range choice opposite the train station, with a series of clean and white-tinted rooms (those with windows feel much less claustrophobic) spread over two wooden-decked floors tucked behind a spacious lounge-cum-reception. Breakfast is included. B750
Sri Trang Hotel 22 Thanon Sathanee 075 218122, sritranghotel.com; map. Welcoming, thoroughly updated 1950s hotel offering spacious a/c rooms with some colourful decorative touches, hot water, cable TV, DVD players and fridges above a cool little café. B550
Thumrin Hotel Thanon Rama VI 075 211011–4, thumrin.co.th; map. Good-value, very central hotel offering international-standard facilities – a/c, hot water, TV, mini-bar – in a high-rise block above its popular bakery-cum-coffee shop. B700
Eating and drinking
Trang’s streets are dotted with dozens of traditional cafés, which serve up gallons of kopi (local filtered coffee) accompanied by various tidbits and light meals. Most famous of these is the local speciality, muu yaang, delicious charcoal-grilled pork, which is generally eaten for breakfast. There's an excellent weekend night market in front of the train station, and, near Centrepoint shopping mall, the hipper Chinta Market, which features an upmarket food court, souvenir stalls, and live music.
1952 Café Opposite the train station on Thanon Sathanee, 089 114 4777, www.facebook.com/nineteenfiftytwocafeattrang; map. Annexed to Sri Trang Hotel, this contemporary-styled cafe is the place to get Western comfort foods. There are burgers (from B190), pizzas (from B200), chicken wings (B100), Thai mains and a good selection of drinks and coffee. Daily 8am–9pm.
Fatimah Opposite the train station on Thanon Sathanee, 086 5942083, www.facebook.com/FatimahHalRestaurant; map. Simple Thai and Malay-style halal restaurant that’s especially popular in the evenings. Buffet of southern curries, tasty phat thai (B40), fried rice and noodles (B40), kopi and tea. Tues–Sun roughly 8.30am–9pm.
Green House Café and Gallery 148/1 Rama VI, 15m east of the clocktower 075 218411, facebook.com/greenhouseattrang; map. Congenial hip café that bakes delicious cakes and wholemeal wheat breads, serves all-day brunch, and brews strong coffee in an arty, sociable sala. The manager, Dear, speaks great English and is happy to share her local knowledge with customers and travellers. Daily 10am–10pm.
Kopi Next to the train station at 25/25–26 Thanon Sathanee 075 214225; map. Very popular, updated traditional café: kopi with dim sum and main courses (fried rice B50), or espresso, various teas and Western breakfasts. Daily 7am–5pm.
See Far Lifestyle 37 Thanon Phattalung (right by the entrance to Soi 3) 075 210139; map. Good, inexpensive restaurant with a varied menu of carefully prepared dishes, specialising in healthy cuisine, vegetarian and local food, such as tom som plakapong, a light, refreshing soup of sea bass, mushrooms and cumin, and kao yook (B150), a Chinese-style dish of steamed pork with taro found only in Trang. Daily 10.30am–8.30pm.
From Pak Meng, 40km due west of Trang town, down to the mouth of the Trang River runs a 30km-long stretch of lovely beaches, broken only by dramatic limestone outcrops. A paved road roughly parallels this stretch of coast, but otherwise there’s surprisingly little development, as the shoreline is technically part of Hat Chao Mai National Park.
Although it has a fine outlook to the headlands and islands to the west (with regular boats to the biggest, Ko Hai), the beach at PAK MENG is not the most attractive on the coast, becoming a rather muddy strip of sand at low tide. At other times, however, it offers quiet, calm swimming, and there’s always the possibility of a meal at one of the many tree-shaded food stalls and restaurants that line the back of the beach.
Immediately south of Pak Meng’s beach is the white sand of Hat Chang Lang, famous for its oysters, which shelters at its north end the finest luxury hotel in the province, Anantara Si Kao.
The turning for the headquarters is 3km on from Hat Chang Lang • B200 • 075 213260, dnp.go.th
Hat Chao Mai National Park covers 230 square kilometres, including parts of Ko Mook and Ko Kradan, but the park admission fee is only rigidly enforced if you visit its headquarters. From the HQ a short trail leads to the south end of the beach and a viewpoint partway up a karst pinnacle, from which you can see Ko Mook and occasionally dugongs in the bay below. At headquarters there’s a simple café as well as accommodation.
About 5km south of the national park HQ, beyond Kuantunku, the pier for Ko Mook, is Hat Yong Ling. This quiet and attractive convex beach, which shelters a national park ranger station (entry B200), is probably the nicest along this stretch of coast, with a large cave which you can swim into at high tide or walk into at low tide. Immediately beyond comes Hat Yao, which is free, runs in a broad 5km white-sand strip, and is backed by casuarina trees and some simple restaurants.
At the south end of Hat Yao is BAN CHAO MAI (also called Ban Hat Yao), a straggle of houses on stilts, which exists on fishing, especially for crabs. From the harbour, boats run regularly across to Ko Libong, and this is the mainland ferry stop on Tigerline’s Lanta–Lipe route. Also on offer are trips by longtail and canoe through the mangroves to the nearby cave of Tham Chao Mai (daily 8am–5pm), which shelters impressively huge rock pillars and a natural theatre, its stage framed by rock curtains – contact Bang Wit (087 463 7628), who speaks English, or ask around in the village for him.
arrival and getting aroundThe Trang Coast
Air-conditioned minibuses, departing roughly hourly but leaving early if already full, run from the bus station in Trang to Pak Meng (45min), as well as via Hat Yao to Ban Chao Mai (1hr), but if you want to explore the whole coastline, you’ll need to rent a motorbike or car in Trang.
accommodation and eating
Pak Meng
Lay Trang Boutique 089 4744423, facebook.com/laytrangboutique/. The nicest place to stay and eat at Pak Meng, a stone’s throw from the pier at the far north end of the beach. Ranged around a large, peaceful garden with lawns and orchids set back from the beach, its bright concrete chalets with huge bathrooms and smart brick rooms come with verandas, hot showers, a/c and TV. Its welcoming, reasonably priced restaurant is nationally famous for its seafood, including nam prik kung siap (dried shrimp relish) and kaeng som soup with sea bass. B1500
Hat Chang Lang
Anantara Si Kao 075 205888, anantara.com. The finest luxury hotel in the province, where the low-rise blocks of stylish bedrooms and pool suites, all with large balconies, are set behind a line of casuarina trees. Facilities encompass a beautiful, large pool, Italian and international restaurants, a kids’ club, a fitness centre and a spa. Watersports on offer include diving, kayaking and sailing, and there’s plenty of other activities, notably cooking and Thai-language lessons and some interesting local tours. The hotel also has its own beach club and restaurant on the main strand on Ko Kradan, reached by daily boat transfer. Breakfast included. B9000
Hat Chao Mai National Park Hq
National park bungalows dnp.go.th. Fan-cooled, en-suite bungalows and rooms, most with refrigerators, for two to six people, set under the casuarinas at the back of the sandy beach, and a simple café. B1000
Generally blessed with blinding white beaches, great coral and amazing marine life, the islands off the coast of Trang and Satun provinces have managed, mostly with just a handful of resorts on each, to cling onto some of that illusory desert-island atmosphere which better-known places like Phuket and Samui lost long ago. Indeed, islands such as Ko Hai and Ko Kradan support no permanent settlements other than the bungalow concerns, while on Ko Tarutao and Ko Adang in the far south, the peace and quiet is maintained by the national parks department; at the other end of the scale, however, nearby Ko Lipe boasts over fifty resorts, as well as a substantial chao ley village.
Accommodation on the islands, much of which is mid-priced, is now often fully booked at the very busiest times. Most of the resorts open year-round, though in practice many can’t be reached out of season (roughly June–Oct) due to treacherous seas. It’s sensible to get in touch ahead of time to check whether the resort you’re interested in is open or has vacancies, and in many cases to arrange transfers from agents in Trang town.
KO HAI (also known as KO NGAI), 16km southwest of Pak Meng, is the most developed of the Trang islands, though it’s still decidedly low-key and much quieter than Ko Lipe down in Satun. The island’s action, such as it is, centres on the east coast, where half a dozen resorts enjoy a dreamy panorama of jagged limestone outcrops, whose crags glow pink and blue against the setting sun, stretching across the sea to the mainland behind. The gently sloping beach of fine, white sand here runs unbroken for over 2km (though at low tide, swimming is not so good at the northern end, which is scattered with dead coral), and there’s some good snorkelling in the shallow, clear water off the island’s southeastern tip.
arrival and departureKo Hai
If you’re planning to fly into Trang or Krabi airports, contact your resort in advance about transfers. There are also plenty of island-hopping options (see above). Hat Chao Mai National Park maintains a booth at Pak Meng pier, where visitors to Ko Hai will usually be charged B200 entrance fee; hang on to your ticket as this should also cover you if you take a trip to Ko Mook’s Emerald Cave.
By ferry In high season a ferry leaves Pak Meng pier at 12pm (45min–1hr; B350), returning from Ko Hai at 10am; longtail boats come out to meet the ferries and shuttle passengers to the various resorts up and down the beach. Travel agents in Trang offer a/c minivan and boat combination tickets for B500. In high season, speedboats connect Ko Hai all the way to Ko Lipe, with stops at Ko Mook, Ko Kradan and Ko Tarutao.
By chartered longtail If you miss the ferries, you can charter a longtail boat for around B1500, for example through Coco Cottage (see below).
Accommodation
Coco Cottage Towards the northern end of the beach 089 724 9225, coco-cottage.com. Charming, helpful and family-friendly resort in a grassy palm grove, where most of the chic, thatched, a/c wooden bungalows (both detached and semi-detached) sport verandas and well-designed bathrooms, with outdoor bamboo hot showers, wooden basins and indoor toilets. Also has a stylish beach bar and a very good restaurant that serves creative Thai food, Thai desserts and espresso coffees. Breakfast included. B2500
Ko Hai Seafood Near the centre of the beach, north of Koh Ngai Villa 095 014 1853. Large, well-built, thatched, woven-bamboo bungalows with wall fans, mosquito screens and cold-water bathrooms, in a single row facing the beach across a nice lawn. B1500
Mayalay Beach Resort Near the centre of the main beach, south of Koh Ngai Villa 081 894 3585, mayalaybeachresort.com. Welcoming place with nineteen deluxe, a/c, woven-bamboo bungalows with thatched roofs, day beds, fridges and capacious hot-water bathrooms. Often open all year round. Breakfast included. B3000
Sea Camp Hostel North end of the beach, bit.ly/2sMSm3y. Basic but charming mixed dorm with mosquito nets, literally on the sand with no flooring, and facing its own private part of beach. Ideal for backpackers and nature lovers. B600
Thanya South end of the beach 075 206967, kohngaithanyaresort.com. A large, very attractive beachside swimming pool with Jacuzzis, set on a spacious lawn, is the main draw here. As well as a/c, hot water and fridges, the dark-wooden villas feature verandas, big French windows and lots of polished teak, while the restaurant has a varied menu of Thai food, including some interesting seafood dishes. Breakfast included. B3600
Thapwarin Resort Towards the northern end of the main beach, north of Coco Cottage 081 894 3585, thapwarin.com. Welcoming, shady resort, where you can choose between well-appointed bamboo and rattan cottages with semi-outdoor bathrooms, and large, very smart, beachfront wooden bungalows; all are thatched and have a/c, mini-bars and hot showers (more expensive stilted villas, with bedrooms upstairs and living area downstairs, are also planned). There’s a massage spa, beach bar and good restaurant, serving Thai and Western food, including seafood barbecues in the evening. Breakfast included. B3800
Island-hopping and tours
Access to the Trang and Satun islands from their nearest mainland ports is described in the individual island accounts, but what sets this area apart are the enticing opportunities for island-hopping, thanks to regular boat services in the tourist season between Ko Lanta and Ko Lipe, or even between Phuket and Langkawi in Malaysia, which can be booked through any travel agent in the area. (Several companies on Ko Lanta that organize day-trips by speedboat to Ko Hai, Ko Mook and Ko Kradan will drop you off at any of the islands, but the cost will be about the same as with Bundhaya Speedboat, Satun Pakbara Speedboat Club and Tigerline detailed below.) If you just fancy a day exploring some of the islands, any travel agent in Trang can book you on a boat trip (roughly mid-Oct to mid-May only) to Ko Kradan for snorkelling, the Emerald Cave on Ko Mook, and other small nearby islands for snorkelling, for around B750/person including packed lunch and soft drinks (excluding the B200 national park fee).
Bundhaya Speedboat 074 783111, bundhayaspeedboat.com. Speedboats between Lanta and Lipe (1 daily; about 4hr; B1900) via Ko Hai, Hat Farang on Ko Mook and Ko Bulon Lae. Onward, same-day connections to Langkawi, and to Ko Phi Phi and Phuket.
Satun Pakbara Speedboat Club 081 959 2094, spcthailand.com. Speedboats between Lanta and Lipe (1 daily; about 4hr; B1900) via Ko Hai, Hat Farang on Ko Mook, Ko Kradan and Ko Bulon Lae. Onward, same-day connections between Lipe and Langkawi, and between Lanta and Ko Phi Phi and Phuket.
Tigerline 098 016 8181, tigerlinetravel.com. Ferries between Phuket and Langkawi (1 daily; about 9hr; B3500), via Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta, Ko Hai, Hat Farang on Ko Mook (with longtail transfers to Ko Kradan), Ban Chao Mai on the mainland (usually with a change of boat) and Ko Lipe. Hai–Lipe, for example, costs B1600.
Ko Hai activities
You can rent snorkelling equipment and kayaks at most of the resorts. All the resorts offer boat trips (B1800/boat, maximum six people, at Ko Hai Seafood, for example) that take in the Emerald Cave on Ko Mook, nearby islands such as Ko Cheuak and Ko Waen and some snorkelling off Ko Hai.
Towards the southern end of the beach, Fantasy Resort has a well-organized dive shop, the German-run Ko Hai Divers, which specialises in small-group trips and PADI courses (080 545 5012, kohaidivers.com; Nov–April).
KO MOOK, about 8km southeast of Ko Hai, supports a comparatively busy fishing village on its eastern side, around which – apart from the sandbar that runs out to the very pricey Sivalai Resort – most of the beaches are disappointing, reduced to dirty mud flats when the tide goes out. However, across on the island’s west coast lies beautiful Hat Farang, with gently shelving white sand, crystal-clear water that’s good for swimming and snorkelling, and gorgeous sunsets.
Part of Hat Chao Mai National Park • Open mid-Nov to mid-May • B200 admission fee if the park rangers are around
The island’s main source of renown is Tham Morakhot, the stunning “Emerald Cave” north of Hat Farang on the west coast, which can only be visited by boat, but shouldn’t be missed. An 80m swim through the cave – 10m or so of which is in pitch darkness – brings you to a hong with an inland beach of powdery sand open to the sky, at the base of a spectacular natural chimney whose walls are coated with dripping vegetation. Chartering your own longtail from the boatmen’s co-operative on Hat Farang (B1000/boat, maximum four people; the boatman will swim with you to guide you through the cave) is preferable to taking one of the big day-trip boats that originate on Lanta or Pak Meng: if you time it right, you’ll get the inland beach all to yourself, an experience not to be forgotten. (The boatmen also offer combined trips to Tham Morakhot, Ko Kradan and Ko Cheuak for B2500/boat.) It’s also easy enough to kayak there from Hat Farang (from B200/hr from Sawaddee), and at low tide you can paddle right through to the inland beach: buoys mark the cave entrance, from where a tunnel heads straight back into the rock; about halfway along, there’s a small, right-hand kink in the tunnel which will plunge you briefly into darkness, but you should soon be able to see light ahead from the hong. Mid-afternoon is often a good time to paddle off on this trip, after the tour boats have left and providing the tide is right.
arrival and departureKo Mook
In addition to the services mentioned below, there are plenty of island-hopping options.
By Boat A year-round minibus leaves Trang station at 11.30am, connecting to the local ferry at Kuan Thung Khu pier, 8km south of Pak Meng (B250 all included). Ferries disembark at the main Ko Mook jetty, off Ao Kham, a 30min walk or B50–100 motorbike-taxi ride over to Hat Farang. Travel agents in Trang can also organise minibus-and-boat packages to Hat Farang, which costs about B350, including a 30min longtail ride direct to the beach. In high season, speedboats depart from Hat Farang hopping all the way south to Ko Lipe (B1400), stopping at other islands en route. There are also direct services to Phi Phi (B1600) and Phuket (B2400) via Ko Lanta (B900).
Accommodation
Had Farang Bungalows 087 884 4785, facebook.com/hadfarang. The eighteen bungalows and rooms at this friendly place are simple, yet clean and with wood and bamboo furnishing and mosquito nets. Nearly all are en suite with their own verandas and the restaurant is very good. Fan B400, a/c B1000
Ko Mook Hostel 400m from the boat pier, 089 724 4456, facebook.com/Kohmookhostelfanpage. This single-storey blue building, the cheapest option on the island, has three (a/c female, a/c mixed and fan mixed) six and ten-bed dorms. The clean bunk beds are equipped with wooden dividers, privacy curtains and reading lights, and the shared bathrooms are kept clean. There's free coffee and tea, and an in-house bakery-cum-coffee-shop that makes for a perfect breakfast spot. B380
Ko Mook Riviera Beach Resort 087 885 7815, riviera-resorts.com. On the south-facing shore of the sandbar that ends at Sivalai Resort, the bright, concrete bungalows at this sustainable, eco-friendly resort all have mosquito-screened French windows directly facing the sea, as well as a/c, satellite TV and DVD player. Bicycles, kayaks and trips to the Emerald Cave and neighbouring islands available. Breakfast and dinner included. B3000
Mountain View Resort A 3min walk inland from Charlie's Beach, 065 053 3077 .facebook.com/moutainviewresortkohmook. A collection of Thai-style bungalows set in a well-tended, shady garden just minutes away from the beach. All rooms are en suite, some are graciously decked out in thatched bamboo, and all have serene wooden verandas. Breakfast is included. B1300
About 6km to the southwest of Ko Mook, KO KRADAN is the remotest of the inhabited islands off Trang, and one of the most beautiful, with crystal-clear waters. On this slender, 4km-long triangle of thick jungle, the main beach is a long strand of steeply sloping, powdery sand on the east coast, with fine views of Ko Mook, Ko Libong and the karst-strewn mainland, and an offshore reef to the north with a great variety of hard coral; such beauty, however, has not escaped the attention of the day-trip boats from Ko Lanta, who turn the beach into a lunchtime picnic ground most days in high season. From a short way north of the Anantara beach club, which is located towards the south end of this beach, a path across the island will bring you after about fifteen minutes to Sunset Beach, another lovely stretch of fine, white sand in a cove; a branch off this path at Paradise Lost leads to a beach on the short south coast, which enjoys good reef snorkelling (also about 15min from the Anantara beach club).
arrival and departureKo Kradan
By minibus-and-longtail transfer Agencies such as Trang Island Hopping Tour can arrange minibus-and-longtail transfers from Trang town, via Kuan Thung Khu pier (twice daily in season; B450). There are also plenty of island-hopping options.
accommodation
Kalume 093 650 0841, kalumekradan.com. Eco-friendly Italian-run resort on the beach next to Seven Seas, with small, basic, thatched bamboo huts with mosquito nets, fans and en-suite bathrooms and smart, large, wooden bungalows with French windows and nice verandas. Good Italian food at the bar-restaurant. B1500
Paradise Lost 089 587 2409; for further information, go to kokradan.wordpress.com. In the middle of the island, roughly halfway along the path to Sunset Beach, is Kradan’s best-value accommodation, run by an American and his dogs. Set in a grassy, palm-shaded grove, it offers simple, clean, thatched rattan bungalows with mosquito nets, fans and shared bathrooms or larger, en-suite, wooden affairs (some with hot showers), kayaks, snorkels and good Thai and Western food. B700
Seven Seas 075 203389–90, sevenseasresorts.com. By far the best of several resorts on the east coast, Seven Seas adds a surprising splash of contemporary luxury to this remote spot. Behind a small, black, infinity-edge pool, the large bungalows, villas and rooms with outdoor warm-water bathrooms are stylishly done out in greys and whites, and sport a/c, fridges, TVs and DVD players. There’s a spa and a dive shop, and breakfast is included. B9300
The largest of the Trang islands with a population of six thousand, KO LIBONG lies 10km southeast of Ko Mook, opposite Ban Chao Mai on the mainland. Less visited than its northern neighbours, it’s known mostly for its wildlife, although it has its fair share of golden beaches too. Libong is one of the most significant remaining refuges in Thailand of the dugong, a large marine mammal similar to the manatee, which feeds on sea grasses growing on the sea floor – the sea-grass meadow around Libong is reckoned to be the largest in Southeast Asia. Sadly, dugongs are now an endangered species, traditionally hunted for their blubber (used as fuel) and meat, and increasingly affected by fishing practices such as scooping, and by coastal pollution, which destroys their source of food. The dugong has now been adopted as one of fifteen “reserved animals” of Thailand and is the official mascot of Trang province.
Libong is also well known for its migratory birds, which stop off here on their way south from Siberia, drawn by the island’s food-rich mud flats (now protected by the Libong Archipelago Sanctuary, which covers the eastern third of the island). For those seriously interested in ornithology, the best time to come is during March and April, when you can expect to see brown-winged kingfishers, masked finfoots and even the rare black-necked stork, not seen elsewhere on the Thai–Malay peninsula.
The island’s handful of resorts occupies a long, thin strip of golden sand at the fishing village of Ban Lan Khao on the southwestern coast. At low tide here, the sea retreats for hundreds of metres, exposing rock pools that are great for splashing about in but not so good for a dip.
LATEX-DRYING IN KO SUKORN
Ko Libong activities
Libong Beach Resort runs boat trips to see the dugongs for B1500 per boat. To this you can add on a visit to the bird sanctuary (B1800 in total), plus a cruise around the island (B2000 in total). The resorts can also organize trips to the Emerald Cave on Ko Mook. For diving, ask at Libong Beach Resort: Yat, a dive master who works on Ko Hai, can usually arrange trips from his home island of Libong.
arrival and departureKo Libong
By public longtail Public longtails depart daily year-round from Ban Chao Mai when full (most frequent in the morning and around lunchtime; B50/person), arriving 20min later at Ban Phrao on Ko Libong’s north side. From here motorbike taxis (B100) transport you to Ban Lan Khao.
In high season, Tigerline speedboats (tigerlinetravel.com) stop at Hat Yao on Ko Libong and can take you to/from Phi Phi, Phuket, Ko Lanta, Ko Hai, Ko Mook, Ko Kradan, Ko Lipe and Langkawi in Malaysia.
By private transfer You can arrange a direct boat transfer from Ban Chao Mai through Libong Beach Resort for B1000/boat.
accommodation
Libong Beach Resort 075 225205, libong-beach.com. Friendly resort on the north side of Ban Lan Khao with a wide variety of accommodation set amid lawns and flowers, ranging from small, en-suite concrete and wood bungalows at the back to spacious, bright, stilted, wooden cabins with a/c and nice decks on the beachfront (B2500). Kayak and motorbike rental are available. Fan B1000, a/c B1500
Libong Relax Beach Resort 091 825 4886, libongrelax.com. Located on an attractive stretch of the beach, all of the bungalows here face directly onto the sea across a narrow, tree-lined lawn and sport some attractive Thai decorative touches. The “Pavilions” have Thai-style roofs, picture windows and large verandas, while the “Cottages” are more functional with smaller verandas; upgrading to a/c also snags you a hot shower. There’s a massage hut and the resort can arrange island tours on a motorcycle with a sidecar. Fan B1400, a/c B2000
A good way south of the other Trang islands, low-lying, ATM-free KO SUKORN lacks the white-sand beaches and beautiful coral of its neighbours but makes up for it with its friendly inhabitants and laidback ambience; for a glimpse of how the Muslim islanders live and work, this is a good place to come.
The lush interior is mainly given over to rubber plantations, interspersed with rice paddies, banana and coconut palms; the island also produces famously delicious watermelons, which are plentiful in March and April. Hat Talo Yai, the main beach – 500m of gently shelving brown sand, backed by coconut palms – runs along the southwestern shore.
Ko Sukorn boat trips and other activities
Boat excursions arranged through the resorts include trips out to the islands of Ko Lao Liang and Ko Takieng, which are part of the Mu Ko Phetra National Marine Park, for some excellent snorkelling. These run nearly every day from November to May; at other times of year, the sea is sometimes calm enough but you’re usually restricted to fishing trips – and to looking round the island itself, which, at thirty square kilometres, is a good size for exploring. Yataa Island Resort has a handy map that marks all the sights, including the three villages and seafood market, and offers motorbikes (B250/half-day) and mountain bikes (B150/half-day) for rent.
arrival and departureKo Sukorn
Transfers from Trang A songthaew-and-boat transfer to Ko Sukorn (B300/person), via the public ferry from Laem Ta Sae, can be arranged through any travel agent in Trang, leaving daily at 11.30am and taking about two and a half hours, or you can arrange a private transfer through the resorts for about B2000 all-in.
Inter-island transfers Yataa Island Resort can organize pricey longtail-boat transfers to or from any of the nearby islands.
accommodation
Ko Sukorn Cabana 089 724 2326, sukorncabana.com. This friendly and peaceful place offers stilted, a/c bungalows with attractive bathrooms and large, well-appointed log cabins on a secluded beach to the north of Hat Talo Yai. Kayaks and motorbikes are also available. Breakfast included. B1000
Yataa Island Resort (Sukorn Beach Bungalows) 089 647 5550, sukornisland.yataaresort.com. Low-key, quiet resort under new management, where the attractively decorated bungalows and different categories of rooms – all a/c and with en-suite hot showers – are set around a lush garden dotted with deckchairs and umbrellas, and there’s a small swimming pool and a good restaurant. At the resort, you can also get a good massage, and you’re free to paddle around in kayaks. Breakfast included. B1400
The scenery at tiny KO BULON LAE, 20km west of Pak Bara in Satun province, isn’t as beautiful as that generally found in Ko Tarutao National Park just to the south, but it’s not at all bad: a 2km strip of fine white sand runs the length of the casuarina-lined east coast, where the two main resorts can be found (open roughly from Nov to April or mid-May), while chao ley fishermen make their ramshackle homes in the tight coves of the rest of the island. A reef of curiously shaped hard coral closely parallels the eastern beach, while White Rock to the south of the island has beautifully coloured soft coral and equally dazzling fish.
arrival and departureKo Bulon Lae
From/to Pak Bara Boats for Ko Bulon Lae currently leave Pak Bara daily at about 12.30pm (about 1hr; B450). As there’s no pier on Bulon Lae, boat arrivals are met by longtails to transfer visitors to shore at School Beach (B50). Boats return from Bulon Lae to Pak Bara at around 9.30am. There are also island-hopping options.
Ko Lao Liang
The beautiful twin islets of Ko Lao Liang, with their white-sand beaches, abundant corals and dramatic rock faces, lie to the west of Ko Sukorn and are part of the Mu Ko Phetra National Park. They’re deserted apart from a single adventure-sport camp, Lao Liang Resort (084 304 4077, facebook.com/LaoLiangResort; open Nov to April; B1500). All-in costs at the resort comprise camping in deluxe tents on the beach, three meals, including seafood barbecues, and snorkelling gear; kayak rental, rock-climbing, bouldering and snorkelling tours are extra. The resort offers transfers from Trang for B1600 per person return.
Accommodation
Bulone 081 897 9084 or 086 960 0468, bulone-resort.net. Friendly, very popular spot in a huge grassy compound under the casuarinas at the north end of the main beach. Airy, en-suite bungalows on stilts come with large verandas and most have a/c, while the restaurant features plenty of vegetarian options and a small selection of tasty Italian favourites. Breakfast included. B3000
Pansand 081 693 3667, pansand-resort.com; Trang office at First Andaman Travel on Thanon Wisetkul. The oldest and largest resort on the island, on the east-coast beach, where large, smart, peaceful cottages come with verandas, fans, mosquito screens, cold-water bathrooms and plenty of room to breathe. On the beach side of the shady, well-tended grounds, there’s a sociable restaurant serving up good seafood and other Thai dishes; boat trips and snorkelling gear are also available. Breakfast included. B1700
Ko Tarutao National Marine Park
B200 admission fee • dnp.go.th
The unspoilt KO TARUTAO NATIONAL MARINE PARK is probably the most beautiful of all Thailand’s accessible beach destinations. Occupying 1400 square kilometres of the Andaman Sea in Satun province, the park covers 51 mostly uninhabited islands. Site of the park headquarters, the main island, Ko Tarutao, offers a variety of government-issue accommodation and things to do, while Ko Adang to the west is much more low-key and a springboard to some excellent snorkelling. The port of Pak Bara is the main jumping-off point for the park and houses a national park visitor centre (074 783485), next to the pier, where you can gather information and book a room on Tarutao or Adang before boarding your boat.
The park’s forests and seas support an incredible variety of fauna: langurs, crab-eating macaques and wild pigs are common on the islands, which also shelter several unique subspecies of squirrel, tree shrew and lesser mouse deer; among the hundred-plus bird species found here, reef egrets and hornbills are regularly seen, while white-bellied sea eagles, frigate birds and pied imperial pigeons are more rarely encountered; and the park is the habitat of about 25 percent of the world’s tropical fish species, as well as dugongs, sperm whales, dolphins and a dwindling population of turtles.
The park amenities on Adang, though not on Tarutao, are officially closed to tourists in the monsoon season from mid-May to mid-November (the exact dates vary from year to year). Accommodation is especially likely to get full around the three New Years (Thai, Chinese and Western), when it’s best to book national park rooms in advance.
The largest of the national park’s islands, KO TARUTAO offers the greatest natural variety: mountains covered in semi-evergreen rainforest rise steeply to a high point of 700m; limestone caves and mangrove swamps dot the shoreline; and the west coast is lined with perfect beaches for most of its 26km length. For a different perspective on Ko Tarutao, John Gray’s Sea Canoe in Phuket runs multi-day sea-kayaking trips that include trips round the island (076 254505–6, johngray-seacanoe.com).
Transport to and from Pak Bara
The main port for Bulon Lae, Tarutao and Lipe is PAK BARA, towards the north end of Satun province. From Trang, you can book minibus-and-boat packages to all three islands and there are direct share-taxis to Pak Bara Talad Kaset station, while from Satun, frequent buses and a/c minibuses make the 50km trip to Langu, where you’ll have to change onto a songthaew.
At Ao Pante, site of the park headquarters, you’ll find the only shop on the island, selling basic supplies, as well as a visitor centre. Behind the settlement, the steep, half-hour climb to To-Boo cliff is a must, especially at sunset, for the view of the surrounding islands and the crocodile’s-head cape at the north end of the bay. A fun ninety-minute trip by boat (B400/boat; contact the visitor centre to book) or kayak can also be made near Ao Pante, up the canal which leads 2km inland from the pier, through a bird-filled mangrove swamp, to Crocodile Cave – where you’re unlikely to see any of the big snappers, reported sightings being highly dubious.
A half-hour walk south from Ao Pante brings you to the two quiet bays of Ao Jak and Ao Molae, fringed by coconut palms and filled with fine white sand. Beyond the next headland (a 2hr walk from Ao Pante) lies Ao Sone (which gets its name from the casuarina trees that fringe the beach), where a pretty freshwater stream runs past the ranger station at the north end of the bay, a good place for peaceful camping. The main part of the bay is a 3km sweep of flawless sand, with a one-hour trail leading up to Lu Du Waterfall at the north end, a ninety-minute trail to Lo Po Waterfall in the middle and a mangrove swamp at the far south end.
On the east side of the island, Ao Taloh Wow is a rocky bay with a ranger station, shop and campsite, connected to Ao Pante by a 12km-long road through old rubber plantations and evergreen forest. Beyond Taloh Wow, a 16km-long trail cuts through the forest to Ao Taloh Udang, a sandy bay on the south side where you can pitch a tent. Here the remnants of a penal colony for political prisoners are just visible: the royalist plotters of two failed coup attempts against the recently established constitutional regime – including the author of the first English-Thai dictionary – were imprisoned here in the 1930s before returning to high government posts. The ordinary convicts, who used to be imprisoned here and at Ao Taloh Wow, had a much harsher time, and during World War II, when supplies from the mainland dried up, prisoners and guards ganged together to turn to piracy. This turned into a lucrative business, which was not suppressed until 1946 when the Thai government asked the British in Malaysia to send in three hundred troops. Pirates and smugglers still occasionally hide out in the Tarutao archipelago, but the main problem now is illegal trawlers fishing in national park waters.
arrival and departureKo Tarutao
From Pak Bara and Ko Lipe The speedboat services between Pak Bara and Ko Lipe will usually call in at Ko Tarutao if requested; Tarutao is about 30min from Pak Bara (B450) and 1hr from Lipe (B450). Boats drop passengers off at Ao Pante on Tarutao; the pier at Ao Pante is sometimes inaccessible at low tide, when longtails (B50) shuttle people to shore.
Snorkelling trips around Ko Adang
You can charter longtail boats (and rent snorkels and masks, for B50/day) through the rangers for excellent snorkelling trips to nearby islands such as Ko Rawi and Ko Jabang (around B1500–2500 for up to ten people, depending on how far you want to go).
getting around
By truck The visitor centre can arrange transport by road, usually in an open truck, to several of the island’s beaches, charging B50/person one-way to Ao Molae, around B400 per vehicle to Ao Sone and B600 per vehicle to Ao Taloh Wow.
By boat Transfers to the same places by boat cost at least twice as much, though you may be tempted by a round-island boat trip for B3000.
By kayak or mountain bike Kayaks and mountain bikes are available at headquarters.
accommodation
National park accommodation At park headquarters, the rooms and bungalows (sleeping four people, or available as twin rooms), which are spread over a large, quiet park behind the beach, are for the main part national park standard issue with cold-water bathrooms, but there are also some basic mattress-on-floor four-person rooms in longhouses, sharing bathrooms, as well as a restaurant. There are also bungalows containing en-suite twin rooms and a small restaurant at Ao Molae. HQ B500, Ao Molae B600
Camping There are campsites at Ao Pante, Ao Molae and Ao Taloh Wow. Two-person tents can be rented from Ao Pante for B150/night (plus B50/person for bedding).
At KO ADANG, a wild, rugged island covered in tropical rainforest 40km west of Ko Tarutao, the park station with its accommodation and restaurant is at Laem Sone on the southern shore, where the beach is steep and narrow and backed by a thick canopy of pines. The half-hour climb to Sha-do cliff on the steep slope above Laem Sone gives good views over Ko Lipe to the south, while about 2km west along the coast from the park station, a twenty-minute trail leads inland to the small Pirate Waterfall.
arrival and departureKo Adang
By boat To get to Ko Adang, take any boat to Ko Lipe, from where a longtail transfer to Adang will cost B100–200/person.
accommodation
National park accommodation At the park station at Laem Sone, there are rooms in bamboo longhouses sleeping three, bungalows of various sizes (2–6 people), and two/three-person tents can be rented (B225/night plus B50/person for bedding). Rooms B300, bungalows B600
Home to a population of around a thousand chao ley, tiny KO LIPE, 2km south of Ko Adang, is something of a frontier maverick, attracting ever more travellers with one dazzling beach, over fifty private bungalow resorts and a rough-and-ready atmosphere. It’s technically a part of Ko Tarutao National Marine Park, but the authorities seem to have given up on the island and don’t collect an admission fee from visitors. A small, flat triangle, Lipe is covered in coconut plantations and supports a school and a health centre in the village on the eastern side. By rights, such a settlement should never have been allowed to develop within the national park boundaries, but the chao ley on Lipe are well entrenched: Satun’s governor forced the community to move here from Phuket and Ko Lanta between the world wars, to reinforce the island’s Thai character and prevent the British rulers of Malaya from laying claim to it.
More recently, a huge, diverse influx of tourists – Westerners, Thais, Chinese and Malaysians, families and backpackers – has been enticed here by the gorgeous beach of Hat Pattaya, a shining crescent of squeaky-soft white sand with an offshore reef to explore on its eastern side, as well as by the relaxed, anything-goes atmosphere and mellow nightlife. Many of Lipe’s chao ley have now sold their beachfront land to Thai–Chinese speculators from the mainland, who have increased the island’s capacity to over two thousand guest rooms; with the money earned, the chao ley have bought the scores of longtail boats that clog up the bay at Hat Pattaya. Lipe’s main drag is Walking Street, a paved path lined with tourist businesses between the eastern end of Hat Pattaya and the south end of the village, which lies on east-facing Sunrise, an exposed, largely featureless beach that gives access to some good snorkelling around Ko Gra; a few other narrow roads also radiate out from the village. A track runs from Pattaya Song Resort at the west end of Pattaya across to Sunset beach, a shady, attractive spot with good views of Ko Adang, in around ten minutes.
arrival and departureKo Lipe
As well as being one of the hubs for island-hopping boats, which may or may not resurface; for up-to-date transport information, contact Koh Lipe Thailand (see below). There is no pier on Lipe, so boats usually anchor at a platform off Hat Pattaya, where they’re met by longtails (B50–100/person to any beach on Lipe); sometimes speedboats will just run ashore at Pattaya, leaving you to jump off onto the beach; in low season, all boats tend to stop at Sunrise Beach, where there’s shelter from the southwest monsoon, leaving you with a longtail trip to any of the beaches.
Via Pak Bara Several companies run speedboats (plus occasional ferries) between Pak Bara and Ko Lipe in high season (usually at 11.30am & 3.30pm; 1hr 30min; B750). In the rainy season, there’s at least one crossing a day, usually heading out at 11.30am.
Via Langkawi Boats operate between Ko Lipe and Langkawi, the large Malaysian island to the southeast, several times a day in high season (1hr; B1000–1400). During the season, a Thai immigration post is set up at the far east end of Lipe’s Hat Pattaya to cover this route.
information
Koh Lipe Thailand The best travel agent and source of information on the island is Koh Lipe Thailand (Boi’s Travel; 089 464 5854 or 081 541 4489, kohlipethailand.com or thaibeachtravellers.com), which currently has two outlets on Walking Street between Hat Pattaya and the village, with the main, year-round one hard by the beach (the second, seasonal, shop, further inland towards Pooh’s, has a book exchange). On offer are all manner of transport tickets (including a/c minibuses in high season to Penang and other popular mainland destinations) plus accommodation bookings (including on the websites).
Currency exchange There are currently no ATMs on Ko Lipe (the nearest is in Pak Bara), but Koh Lipe Thailand, for instance, offers currency exchange and cash advances.
Tourist police Behind the immigration post at the far east end of Hat Pattaya 1155.
Snorkelling and diving around Ko Lipe
The prime diving and snorkelling sites near Ko Lipe are around Ko Adang, Ko Rawi and Ko Dong, just to the north and west in Ko Tarutao National Marine Park, where encounters with reef and even whale sharks, dolphins and stingrays are not uncommon. Further afield to the south, advanced divers head for Eight Mile Rock, a pinnacle that rises to about 14m from the surface, with soft corals, mantas, leopard and whale sharks. A handful of dive shops operate on Lipe, and there are dozens of places offering snorkelling day-trips on chao ley longtail boats; snorkellers are liable to pay the park admission fee of B200, though some longtail captains will try to dodge the park rangers.
Koh Lipe Thailand See below. This travel agent offers snorkelling day-trips to the best sites around the islands on the west side of Ko Adang for B550–650/person, including lunch and full snorkelling equipment, or a sunset trip for B450.
Ko Lipe Diving On Walking Street between Sunrise and Hat Pattaya 087 622 6204, kolipediving.com. Well-regarded SSI dive centre offering daily trips (B2800 for two dives) and SSI courses (B14,500 for the Open Water; for PADI add B1500). Also runs snorkelling trips (B1000).
Ocean Pro Divers On Pattaya beach, just east of the main pier 089 733 8068, oceanprodivers.com. Five-Star PADI centre offering daily trips (B3000, including equipment rental and National Marine Park diving fees, for two dives) and PADI courses (B14,500 for the Open Water). Also offers diving and accommodation packages for divers.
accommodation
The majority of Lipe’s bungalows are on Hat Pattaya, the prettiest but most crowded and expensive beach on the island. There are a bunch of resorts on Sunset beach on the northwest side, while twenty or so have set up shop on Sunrise, on the east side near the village. If you turn up on the island and are struggling to find a vacant room, head for one of the Koh Lipe Thailand offices on Walking Street for booking assistance (see opposite).
Blue Tribes East end of Hat Pattaya 080 546 9464, bluetribeslipe.com; map. Congenial, Italian-run resort and restaurant with very spacious, well-spread and well-designed bungalows and rooms, either in lovely dark wood or in thatched white concrete, sporting large, attractive tiled bathrooms with hot showers, fans, mosquito nets and large verandas; some are two-storey with a balcony and chill-out room/extra bedroom upstairs. Closed mid-May to July. B1700
Bloom Café & Hostel On the eastern end of Walking Street, 095 440 2288, facebook.com/bloom.cafe.hostel; map. Right in the midst of the action, this cosy boutique hostel has eight-bed dorms and some attractive black-tinged private rooms (B1100), all with plush mattresses, dark-wooden bed stands and floor tiles. The immaculate and chic shared bathrooms have rain showers. The cafe downstairs is a popular travellers hangout and serves some of Lipe's best brews. B600
Café Lipe West of Walking Street, central Pattaya 086 969 9472, cafe-lipe.com; map. Eco-conscious, solar-powered place in a great location, offering large, old-style bamboo bungalows that are nicely spaced out under a thick canopy of teak and fruit trees. Each has a partly outdoor, cold-water bathroom, fan and mosquito net. Three-night minimum stay. B1000
Castaway Sunrise 083 138 7472, castaway-resorts.com; map. Airy, thatched, mostly two-storey bungalows featuring well-equipped bathrooms with cold rain showers, ceiling fans, big decks, hammocks and a certain amount of style, mostly bestowed by the distinctive red Indonesian hardwood that they’re made from. On a sandy patch with a dive shop, a mellow, multi-tiered bar-restaurant and a massage spa; kayaks and snorkels for rent. B2700
Idyllic South end of Sunrise 074 750399, idyllicresort.com; map. This welcoming “concept resort” comes as a big surprise out here in Thailand’s far maritime corner, with its angular contemporary architecture in white, grey and wood. Set in an attractive garden, the minimalist rooms boast huge windows, a/c, hot outdoor rain showers, mini-bars and nice touches such as sun hats for guests’ use. There are two pools – one infinity-edged and beachside, with a swim-up bar, the other with a Jacuzzi – as well as kayaks and other watersports. Breakfast included. B6000
Koh Lipe Backpackers West end of Hat Pattaya, kohlipebackpackers.com; map. Part of Davy Jones’ Locker diving centre (free stays with included with a PADI course), this place offers two eight-bed dorms in plain concrete rooms with thick mattresses, hot showers and lockers, as well as plain, a/c double bedrooms with en-suite hot-water bathrooms. Wi-fi is only available in the lobby. Dorms B500, doubles B1200
Mali Resort Towards the west end of Hat Pattaya 077 033020, maliresorts.com/koh-lipe/pattaya-beach; map. At this shady, well-appointed luxury resort, go for one of the Balinese bungalows if you can (from B6800), thatched, dark-wood affairs with big French windows, sizeable verandas and open-air bathrooms, which are spread out around a lovely lawn and beach bar. Breakfast included. B4300
The Noi Guesthouse 094 495 4953, facebook.com/noiguesthouse; map. Comfortable en-suite rooms with naked walls and wooden furnishings. Most rooms have little balconies facing the road that are set over the annexed restaurant, where guest can enjoy the rich included breakfast. The friendly staff are more than happy to pick up guests from the docks. B2000
Pooh’s On Walking Street between Sunrise and Hat Pattaya 074 750345, facebook.com/poohbarkohlipe; map. Well inland behind the popular restaurant, but a good, functional choice if you get stuck for somewhere to stay. The eight, concrete single-storey rooms have small terraces, a/c, hot showers and TVs, and there’s a dive centre. Breakfast included. B1800
The Reef In the village, 82 733 7034, thereefkohlipe.com; map. Boutique guesthouse with a range of homely, spacious a/c rooms, ranging from smart budget singles (B950), to charming family suites with wooden mezzanines (B2400) or cosy, large wooden balconies (B3000). It's a quieter option, slightly removed from the action, but still within walking distance of all the main beaches. Breakfast included. B1400
The Street Hostel On Walking Street, 099 125 9146, thestreethostels.com; map. Housed in a metallic net-covered building that opens with an arty loft filled with wooden frames, hanging bulbs and industrial chic furniture, this is a comfortable, clean and modern hostel. The white-tinged a/c rooms have private pods – some with double beds for couples (B1000) – equipped with privacy curtains, plugs and reading lights. The shared bathrooms are squeaky clean; there's free coffee and tea and a fridge for guests' house. B600
Z-Touch Lipe Island Resort On the West end of Hat Pattaya, 086 292 8204, ztouchresort.com; map. Clustered around gardens that face a relatively boat-free stretch of beach, the rooms, villas and cottages here have en-suite bathrooms and spacious verandas. There's an inviting free-form swimming pool; breakfast is included. B2800
eating and drinking
There are a couple of beach bars on Sunset, but the east end of Pattaya has the biggest concentration, with low candlelit tables and cushions sprawled on the sand, fire shows and names like Peace and Love.
Bombay Restaurant On Walking Street, 094 810 1872, bit.ly/2FvFaCT; map. Authentic Indian food served with care and attention by the affable owner. The naan bread is particularly good, and a meal will set you back around B400. Daily 10am–10pm.
Café Lipe West of Walking Street, central Pattaya; map. Behind a thick screen of foliage this resort restaurant serves up decent veggie choices among its inexpensive Thai dishes, sandwiches and espressos, as well as home-made bread, fruit juices and muesli. Daily 7am–5pm.
Daya West end of Hat Pattaya; map. One of the most popular of half a dozen restaurants that lay out candlelit tables and seafood barbecues on the beach at night. It also offers a long menu of mostly Thai dishes, such as prawn tempura (B160), lots of tofu options for vegetarians, Thai desserts and Western breakfasts. Daily 7am–11pm.
Elephant Walking Street, 100m inland from Pattaya 088 046 8234, facebook.com/ElephantKohLipe; map. Mellow restaurant and secondhand bookshop, where you can tuck into delicious chicken sandwiches (B180) and burgers made with Australian beef, as well as salads, breakfasts and espressos. Daily 8am–8pm.
Happy Vibe Bar On Sunrise beach, 084 807 3781, bit.ly/2F8ilaS; map. Welcoming Dutch-owned thatch-and-bamboo beach bar festooned with hand-painted driftwood signs. They serve cocktails (from B150), coffee and fresh fruit shakes (B120). There's a cosy upstairs veranda, and wooden tables and loungers spilling out on to the sand – a good reminder of Lipe's low-key yesterdays. Daily 10am–late.
La Luna 082 286 1910, facebook.com/lalunakohlipe; map. An appreciated Italian restaurant set in the hotel of the same name, with an attractive wooden-decked sala and bar. Pizzas (from B200) are crunchy, and the ravioli, bruschettas and tiramisu taste authentic. A meal will set you back around B1000. Daily 6pm–11pm.
Pooh’s On Walking Street between Sunrise and Hat Pattaya, 087 392 3838, facebook.com/poohbarkohlipe; map. This well-run and welcoming bar-restaurant-bakery is a long-standing institution and a popular hive of activity, with nightly movies. Offers tasty Thai food, including chicken with cashew nuts (B150) and vegetarian dishes, as well as sandwiches, cakes, evening barbecues, DJs and live music, plus a wide choice of breakfasts and espresso coffees. Daily roughly 8.30am–10.45pm.
Roti Mina Walking Street, about 50m inland from Hat Pattaya on the right-hand side 081 397 7018; map. Serves all manner of outlandish roti pancakes – raisin and cheese roti, anyone? – as well as the more familiar roti with curry (B100) and banana roti. Also does some classic southern and central Thai dishes. Daily 7am–10pm.
Nestling in the last wedge of Thailand’s west coast, the remote town of SATUN is served by just one road, Highway 406, which approaches through forbidding karst outcrops. Set in a green valley bordered by limestone hills, the town is leafy and relaxing but not especially interesting, except during its small version of the Vegetarian Festival and its International Kite Festival at the end of February. There’s little reason to come here apart from the boat service to and from Langkawi in Malaysia.
Soi 5, Thanon Satun Thani, on the north side of the centre • Wed–Sun 9am–4pm • B30
The National Museum has a memorable setting in the graceful Kuden Mansion, which was built in British colonial style, with some Thai and Malay features, by craftsmen from Penang, and inaugurated in 1902 as the Satun governor’s official residence. The exhibits and audiovisuals in English have a distinctive anthropological tone, but are diverting enough, notably concerning Thai Muslims, the chao ley on Ko Lipe, and the Sakai, a dwindling band of nomadic hunter-gatherers who still live in the jungle of southern Thailand.
arrival and departureSatun Town
By bus Satun’s bus station is far to the southeast of the centre on the bypass, but Trang buses usually do a tour of the town centre, stopping, for example, near On’s on Thanon Bureewanit; incoming buses from Phuket via Krabi, Trang and Langu will set you down on Thanon Satun Thani by the Wangmai hotel; and you can book long-distance tickets in advance at the central Baw Khaw Saw office on Thanon Hatthakam Sueksa (for the long journey to Bangkok, it’s worth shelling out a bit extra for the VIP buses that depart around 3–4pm).
Destinations Bangkok (4 daily; 16hr); Phuket (4 daily; 8hr); Trang (hourly; 2hr 30min–3hr).
By minibus A/c minibuses to Langu congregate on Thanon Sulakanukul.
By ferry There are ferries from nearby Thammalang pier to Langkawi in Malaysia (see box below).
getting around
By motorbike or car On Kongnual (see below) offers motorbike (B250–300/day) and car rental (B1000–1500/day).
information
On Kongnual 36 Thanon Bureewanit 074 724133 or 081 097 9783, onmarch13@hotmail.com. From her restaurant, On’s: The Kitchen, On Kongnual dispenses helpful tourist information and sells all kinds of transport tickets.
accommodation
On’s Guest House 36 Thanon Bureewanit 074 724133 or 081 097 9783, onmarch13@hotmail.com; map. A variety of rooms in two opposite modern, Sino-Portuguese-style buildings with wooden shutters and coloured-glass windows, one above On’s: The Kitchen. There’s a fan-cooled dorm but most have a/c, fridges and satellite TV; bathrooms with hot showers are shared but plentiful. Dorms B300, doubles B500
Satunthanee Hotel Thanon Satun Thani 074 711010; map. This centrally placed, good-value, traditional Chinese hotel offers battered but clean rooms with small bathrooms and TVs, though it suffers from noise from the road and the mosque. Fan B300, a/c B400
Sinkiat Buri Hotel 50 Thanon Apainuratrumluk 074 721055–8, sinkiathotel.com; map. Higher-end hotel in Satun, offering large bedrooms in a minimalist style with lots of dark wood, a/c, rain showers, fridges, flat-screen TVs and good views over the surrounding countryside from the upper floors. Breakfast included. B1500
Crossing into Malaysia from Satun
Two or three ferry boats a day cross from Thammalang to the Malaysian island of Langkawi (074 725294, langkawi-ferry.com; 1hr 15min; B300). The journey from Satun town to Thammalang is covered by orange songthaews (roughly every 30min; B40) from near the 7-Eleven supermarket on Thanon Sulakanukul, as well as chartered tuk-tuks (B150) and motorcycle taxis (B60–70).
It’s also possible to take an a/c minibus to Malaysia’s Kangar (which has bus connections to Penang and Kuala Lumpur) through the Wang Kelian border and Thale Ban National Park (B400; 1 daily in the morning; about 2hr) – contact On Kongnual (see above) to book tickets.
eating and drinking
Satun has a slim choice of restaurants, but for a meal in the evening you can’t do much better than the lively and popular night market, north of the centre on the west side of Thanon Satun Thani.
Go Ho Thanon Saman Pradit, opposite the Chinese temple 074 711018; map. A cheap, busy, friendly restaurant with leafy pavement tables that serves tasty Thai and Chinese food, including plenty of seafood (according to market price), salads and southern specialities such as kaeng som (B120). Mon–Sat 3pm–midnight.
On’s: The Kitchen 36 Thanon Bureewanit 074 724133 or 081 097 9783; map. Very tasty Thai food, including southern specialities, some interesting fish dishes and handy set menus, such as green curry with prawn patties (thawt man kung) and rice for B120. Also offers a wide array of Western food, including good breakfasts, jacket potatoes, pies and espresso coffees. (On’s bar, a couple of doors away, The Living Room, stays open late, depending on customers.) Daily 8am–10pm.
The friendly town of Phattalung, strewn below the looming limestone boulder housing the Tham Malai Caves, sees very few visitors despite its excellent sites. The caves, a 2.5km walk north of the train station along Apaiborirak Soi 1 and up a steep staircase, are creepy and filled with bats, but the main draw here is the stunning lotus-filled Thale Noi, 16km to the northeast. The smallest extension of Songkhla Lake is Thailand's biggest waterfowl reserve, supporting more than 180 species of protected local and migratory birds. Boats can be chartered (RM500/hour) in Baan Thale Noi, but with your own vehicle, you can drive along scenic backroads towards the Pak Pra Canal, where local fishermen still use stilted Chinese fishing nets (yor yak in Thai).
arrival and departurePhattalung
By train Phattalung is on the main Northern line, with at least five daily sleeper trains to Bangkok (15hr), and five daily to Hat Yai (3hr).
By bus The bus station is inconveniently located 6km out of the centre off Route 41 (B40 one-way by motorbike taxi from the train station). From here, minivans travel to Baan Thale Noi roughly every 30 minutes (B70). All services dwindle after 6pm.
Destinations Bangkok (at least 7 daily; 13hr); Hat Yai (every 15min; 3hr); Phuket (at least 6 daily, with stops in Trang and Krabi; 6/7hr); Songkhla (hourly; 2hr); Surat Thani (half-hourly; 3hr30min); Trang (half-hourly; 1hr).
Accommodation
Phattalung Thai Hotel 14 Dissarasakarin Rd, 074 611636. The cheapest option in town has old yet clean en-suite rooms with televisions and large windows, some with a/c (B500), and is in easy walking distance from the train station. B300
Regardless of the volatile situation in the south, travelling to HAT YAI, the biggest city in the region and a major transport axis, is possible and relatively safe; check up-to-date information before setting off though. Besides a lively night market and the shopping streets around central thoroughfare Thanon Sanehanusorn, the Phra Maha Chedi Tripob Trimongkol, set on a hilltop in the south of town and better-known as the Stainless Steel Temple, is worth a visit for its unique futuristic design, especially when illuminated after sunset. It's about B300 in a taxi, including a short wait. For beaches and a livelier atmosphere, you are better off moving to SONGKHLA, 30km northeast of Hat Yai.
Set on a narrow peninsula separating the Gulf of Thailand from the coastal lake of the same name, breezy Songkhla, with accessible beaches and a Sino-Portuguese Old Town, makes for a rewarding stop. The main beach, Samilla, has a popular Golden Mermaid Statue perched on the easternmost tip of the cape. Swimming is possible, but Chalathat Beach directly to the south is quieter. The atmospheric Old Town extends around the City Pillar Shrine, on the eastern side of Songhkla's peninsula. Nakhorn Nok, Nakhorn Nai and Nang Ngam roads are filled with street art and relaxed shop house cafés where Chinese-Thais dish up the best of their town's mixed culinary heritage.
arrival and departureHat Yai
Travel agency The helpful Cathay Tour (93/1 Thanon Niphat Uthit 2, 074 235044, cathaytourthailand.com), a travel agency on the ground floor of the guesthouse of the same name, handles onward flight, bus, share-taxi, a/c minibus and ferry bookings, both within Thailand and into Malaysia, as well as offering car and motorbike rental.
By plane About 5km south of town, Hat Yai airport is connected to the downtown area by a/c minibuses (B80) and has Avis (02 251 1131, avisthailand.com) and Budget (074 227268, budget.co.th) car rental desks.
By train The train station is on the west side of the centre at the end of Thanon Thamnoon Vithi, and has useful late afternoon departures to Bangkok, stopping in Surat Thani, Chumpon and Hua Hin.
By bus or minibus Hat Yai bus terminal is southeast of the centre on Thanon Kanchanawanit, while the a/c minibus terminal at Talat Kaset is about 5km west of town, both leaving you with a songthaew ride to the centre. Minibuses for Songkhla depart from the main bus terminal and the clock tower until about 7pm and cost B30, returning from the Anuban Songkhla School on Ramwithi Road, just south of Songkhla's clock tower.
information
Tourist information The TAT office is at 1/1 Soi 2, Thanon Niphat Uthit 3 (daily 8.30am–4.30pm; 074 243747, tatsgkhl@tat.or.th).
Tourist police Thanon Niphat Uthit 3, near the TAT office 074 246733 or 1155.
Accommodation
Baan Nai Nakhon Boutique Hotel 166 Nang Ngam Rd, Songkhla, 095 438 9323, facebook.com/baannainakhon; map. Absorb Songkhla's old town vibe in these dark crimson-tinged, Sino-Thai inspired wooden floored rooms, equipped with plush queen beds, handmade quilts, and en-suite bathrooms with rain showers. Breakfast included. B1500
Centara Hotel 3 Thanon Sanehanusorn 074 352222, centarahotelsresorts.com; map. Luxury hotel in a central location next to the Central Department Store, featuring contemporary-styled rooms with a spa, fitness centre, sauna, swimming pool and Thai, Chinese and Japanese food at its several restaurants. B3000
The Train Hotel Hat Yay Railway Station 074 221 133–35, bit.ly/2HNFuh1; map. Modern bunk bed dorms and spacious, smart en-suite rooms located inside of Hat Yai station, right next to the ticket booth. It's cleaner than most nearby budget hotels and convenient for early departures, but it gets noisy when trains come and go late at night or early in the morning. Dorms B300, doubles B700
crossing into malaysia from hat yai
Two daily trains leave Hat Yai station at 7.30am and 13.05pm to Padang Basar KTM station in Malaysia (603 2267 1200, ktmb.com.my/ktmb_ui; 30min; B70), where there is an immigration checkpoint. Malaysian trains proceed to Butterworth (for Penang; RM10.20), departing roughly hourly from 6am to 9.30pm; at least five high-speed trains also leave daily to Kuala Lumpur (4/5hr; from RM56).
You can also reach Padang Besar using local buses (roughly every 30min; B30) and a/c minivans (B100): both leave from Hat Yai's train station or the clock tower and will drop you opposite the Thai immigration checkpoint. From there, it’s a 500m walk to the Malaysian border, which is about 300m to the left of Padang Besar's train station.
As another option, direct a/c minibuses to Penang (several daily; 5hr; B500/700) can be booked from most travel agents in Hat Yai's Thanon Sanehanusorn, and use the Sadao/Bukit Kayu Hitam border, connecting to Malaysia's North-South Expressway E1.
