A traditional New England clambake involves digging holes in the sand and burying clams, lobsters, corn, seaweed, burlap, and hot rocks. Here is a simpler version that can be done anytime—even in the winter, when clams are at their plumpest and juiciest—and you don’t need a shovel. This method is special because the clams and the shells get smoky, and the sauce absorbs that smoke. The sauce and the clam juice beg to be sopped up by grilled crostini. Even if you have a smoker, do this on the grill because you want high heat and lots of thick smoke in a hurry. This is messy finger food, so make sure you have a roll of paper towels on the table when you serve it.
Makes 2 dinner servings or 4 appetizer servings
Takes about 40 minutes
1. Prep. In a skillet on the grill, the side burner, or indoors, cook the bacon to your favorite degree of doneness. Drain it on paper towels, let cool, then finely chop it. Leave the bacon fat in the skillet.
2. Add the butter, shallot, tarragon, garlic, and pepper to the bacon fat and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Add the white wine and bring to a boil. Cook for about 5 minutes to cook off the alcohol. Don’t skip the boiling—the alcohol can mess up the taste. Remove from the heat.
3. Fire up. Get the grill up to warp 10 (maximum). Place a disposable pan below the grill grates and on top of the heat source. Add three or four handfuls of hardwood sawdust, wood chips, pellets, old dried herbs, or clean, dry hay.
4. Cook. Prepare the clams as described in Quick-Smoked Clams on page 338.
5. Serve. Put the clams in a serving bowl big enough to hold them all. Pour the sauce over the clams. Add the lemon juice, chives, and chopped bacon. Give everyone a bowl and scoop some clams and juice into each bowl. Use the bread or crostini to make open-face sandwiches and soak up the juices.