sweetly tart
The merging of sweet and sharp, of sugar and acid, makes a plainspoken butter cake sing.
The substructure of the recipe for lemon cake, sublime and divine, lemony sugar wash with glazed lemon threads includes all the usual but high-end elements (butter, eggs, heavy cream), but the burst of lemon and the way it toys with the batter and the finished cake are what really matter, flavor-wise. Lemon peel combined with lemon extract is set aside for a short while to blossom before it is introduced into a genial batter. Its tart presence is reiterated—sweetly—in the dewy topping of glazed lemon peel and a sugar-tart coating that gets swept across the top of the baked cake. The finish is brash. The tender crumb of the cake within and beneath its crackly surface embraces it handily. In all, this confection is a real keeper.
But wait, there’s more.
The recipe for the lemon cake that won’t go away (updated), lemon soaking glaze, lemon pour is a different species of cake, and it has its own history. This recipe, in somewhat different form, appeared in Baking by Flavor, my cookbook that recorded a decade’s worth of research in establishing and pyramiding flavors in doughs and batters. Caterers, avocational bakers, and nearly everyone who opened the book and baked from it have been turning their collective mixers on to prepare this cake. The communal enthusiasm for it encouraged me to offer a new version. Don’t worry, the changes are subtle—at best—but the new incarnation will give you every reason to add lemons to your weekly shopping list.
lemon cake, sublime and divine, lemony sugar wash with glazed lemon threads
serving: one 10-inch cake, creating about 16 slices
ahead: best on baking day
lemon butter batter
2 tablespoons finely grated lemon peel
21/2 teaspoons lemon extract
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups unsifted bleached all-purpose flour
1 cup unsifted bleached cake flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound plus 2 tablespoons (18 tablespoons or 21/4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
21/2 cups superfine sugar
1/3 cup plus 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, sifted
6 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
lemon topping
lemony sugar wash with glazed lemon threads
non-melting confectioners’ sugar, for sifting over the lemon-washed cake slices (optional)
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.
Combine the lemon peel, lemon extract, and lemon juice in a small nonreactive mixing bowl. Set aside to blossom.
Film the inside of a 10-inch Bundt pan (generous 33/4 inches deep, with a capacity of 14 cups) or a 10-inch Bundt pan (41/2 inches deep, with a capacity of 15 cups) with nonstick flour-and-oil spray.
For the batter, sift the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper.
Cream the butter in the large bowl of a freestanding electric mixer on moderate speed for 4 minutes. Add the superfine sugar in 4 additions, beating for 1 minute after each portion is added. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat for 45 seconds. Beat in the whole eggs, one at a time, mixing for about 20 seconds after each addition to combine. Add the egg yolks and beat for 30 seconds longer. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl with a rubber spatula to keep the batter even-textured. Blend in the lemon peel and extract mixture. On low speed, alternately add the sifted mixture in 3 additions with the heavy cream in 2 additions, beginning and ending with the sifted mixture. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl thoroughly with a rubber spatula after each addition. Beat the batter on moderately high speed for 1 minute.
Pour and scrape the batter into the prepared baking pan. Smooth the top with a rubber spatula.
Bake the cake in the preheated oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes, if you are using the 10-inch Bundt pan (generous 33/4 inches deep, with a capacity of 14 cups), or 1 hour and 20 minutes, if you are using the 10-inch Bundt pan (41/2 inches deep, with a capacity of 15 cups), or until risen, set, and a wooden pick inserted into the cake withdraws clean. The baked cake will retract slightly from the sides of the baking pan. Cool the cake in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes. Invert onto another cooling rack. Lift off the pan. Place a sheet of waxed paper underneath the cooling rack holding the cake.
Spoon the lemony topping over the rounded edges of the cake, letting the glazed threads settle on the uppermost rounded surfaces. Make sure to brush the wash on the sides of the cake as well. Cool completely. Just before serving, and after slicing, you can curl a few glazed lemon threads against the surface nap of the cakes’ slices, then dust the top and edges with non-melting confectioners’ sugar, if you wish. Store in an airtight cake keeper.
notes
• it is important to note that generous bits of the marinated lemon peel will cause paler dots to appear on the rounded (inverted) surface of the baked cake—to be expected and certainly not a flaw
• Snow White Topping Sugar is available from King Arthur Flour, The Baker’s Catalogue; this is non-melting sugar
• use a finely serrated knife to cut the cake
lemony sugar wash with glazed lemon threads
serving: about 2/3 cup
glazed lemon threads
julienne of lemon peel from 2 lemons (preferably organic)
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
lemon sugar wash
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
For the glazed lemon threads, blanch the lemon peels in boiling water for 1 minute, drain, and refresh in cold water; repeat this process. Place the lemon juice and sugar in a small nonreactive saucepan, cover, and set over low heat to dissolve the sugar. Uncover the pan, raise the heat to moderately high, and bring to the boil. Stir in the lemon peels and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes; the peels should curl and look lustrous. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Cool for 10 minutes. Pour into a heatproof bowl. Cool completely.
Use the glazed lemon threads in the lemon sugar wash. Or, turn the glazed lemon threads and all of the accompanying syrup into a small nonreactive container, cover tightly, and refrigerate. As the threads chill in the syrup, they will curl. The glazed threads can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
For the lemon sugar wash, combine the sugar and lemon juice in a small nonreactive bowl. Stir in the cooled lemon threads along with 2 tablespoons of the syrup that clings to them.
Use the syrup for spooning over a warm cake or batch of muffins.
notes
• thin, delicate threads of lemon peel make the prettiest presentation
lemon cake, sublime and divine, lemony sugar wash with glazed lemon threads
the lemon cake that won’t go away (updated), lemon soaking glaze, lemon pour
serving: one 10-inch cake, creating about 16 slices
ahead: best on baking day
lemon butter batter
5 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel
11/2 teaspoons lemon extract
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
23/4 cups unsifted bleached all-purpose flour
1/3 cup unsifted bleached cake flour
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound (16 tablespoons or 2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups superfine sugar
4 large eggs, separated
1 cup buttermilk
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 tablespoons superfine sugar
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Combine the lemon peel, lemon extract, and lemon juice in a small nonreactive mixing bowl. Set aside to blossom.
Film the inside of a 10-inch Bundt pan (generous 33/4 inches deep, with a capacity of 14 cups) with nonstick flour-and-oil spray.
Sift the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking soda, and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper.
Cream the butter in the large bowl of a freestanding electric mixer on moderate speed for 3 minutes. Add the 2 cups superfine sugar in 3 additions, beating for 1 minute after each portion is added. Beat in the egg yolks, 2 at a time, mixing for about 20 seconds after each addition to combine. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl with a rubber spatula to keep the batter even-textured. Blend in the lemon peel and extract mixture. On low speed, alternately add the sifted mixture in 3 additions with the buttermilk in 2 additions, beginning and ending with the sifted mixture. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl thoroughly with a rubber spatula after each addition.
In a clean, dry medium-size mixing bowl, whip the egg whites until just beginning to mound, add the cream of tartar, and continue whipping until soft peaks are formed. Sprinkle over the 2 tablespoons superfine sugar and continue whipping until firm (but not stiff) peaks are formed. The whipped egg whites will look glossy. Stir one-quarter of the whipped egg whites into the batter, then fold in the remaining whites, taking care to be thorough while keeping the batter buoyant.
Spoon the batter into the prepared baking pan. Smooth the top with a rubber spatula.
Bake the cake in the preheated oven for 55 minutes, or until risen, set, and a wooden pick inserted into the cake withdraws clean or with a few moist crumbs attached. The baked cake will retract slightly from the sides of the baking pan. Cool the cake in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes. Invert onto another cooling rack. Lift off the pan. Place a sheet of waxed paper underneath the cooling rack holding the cake.
Coat the surface of the cake with the lemon soaking glaze, taking care to moisten the sides of the cake as well as the top, using a soft pastry brush. After 25 to 35 minutes, or when the top of the cake is no longer wet to the touch, spoon over the lemon pour, allowing it to cascade over the rounded edges of the cake’s surface. Let the cake stand for at least 1 hour before slicing and serving. Store in an airtight cake keeper.
notes
• use a finely serrated knife to cut the cake
lemon soaking glaze
serving: about 2/3 cup
lemony brushing wash
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon lemon extract
Combine the lemon juice and sugar in a small nonreactive saucepan (preferably enameled cast iron). Cover and set over moderately low heat. When every last granule of sugar has dissolved (in 5 to 8 minutes), uncover the pan, bring to the simmer, and simmer for 1 minute. Off the heat, stir in the lemon extract.
Use the warm or hot glaze over a warm or cool cake. Or, use the cool glaze over a warm or hot cake. For the best results, avoid using the cool glaze over a cool cake.
notes
• be sure to use a small saucepan or the glaze will overly reduce
lemon pour
serving: about 11/4 cups
lemony icing
2 cups plus 3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons unsifted confectioners’ sugar
5 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
Place the confectioners’ sugar, lemon juice, and butter in a medium-size nonreactive mixing bowl. Using a hand-held electric mixer, blend the ingredients on low speed for 30 seconds, or until just combined. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl once or twice with a rubber spatula to keep the topping smooth-textured. Do not overbeat or the topping will be spongy instead of smooth. The topping should be slightly thick, but still pourable.
Use the topping immediately, before it has the opportunity to firm up.
notes
• the density of the glaze will depend on the atmospheric conditions of the day and your kitchen (whether arid or humid)
• the density of the mixture can be adjusted to achieve its thick-but-pourable consistency by adding up to 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar (1 to 2 teaspoons at a time) or up to 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (1/2 teaspoon at a time)