The Middle East
The Middle East abounds with plant-based gastronomic pleasures, from familiar vegan mainstays such as hummus, falafel, and tabbouleh, to stuffed grape leaves, the eggplant dip called baba ghanoush, and fattoush, a hearty bread salad. There’s also a luscious roasted red pepper and walnut dip called muhammara that begs to be served with fragrant flatbreads topped with zesty za’atar spices. When several of these flavorful dishes are served at the same time, the meal is called a meze. I call it vegan heaven.
From Iran, Syria, Lebanon, and Turkey, we find traditional dishes made with eggplant, tomatoes, artichokes, rice, couscous, and lentils, among other staples. Seasonings include chiles, garlic, cumin, mint, fennel, saffron, and cinnamon, as well as spice blends such as the Baharat Spice Blend.
The warm climate of the region supports a wide variety of fresh produce that includes figs, grapes, apricots, and pomegranates. Fruit is generally served with most meals, and dried fruits are enjoyed as snacks or dessert as in Stuffed Dates, Three Ways.
In addition to working culinary magic with grains and beans, cooks in this region also have a knack for preparing vegetables as evidenced by specialties such as cauliflower served with a tangy orange and tahini sauce and batata harra, spicy potatoes made with chiles, garlic, and cilantro. Heartier dishes include foules mesdames, a luscious fava bean stew, a hearty lentil soup made with chard and lemon juice, and sleek, a satisfying bulgur pilaf made with black-eyed peas and chard or kale, which is used as a delicious stuffing in my recipe for Sleek-Stuffed Eggplant with Pomegranate Sauce.
Muhammara is a Middle Eastern dip believed to have originated in Aleppo, Syria, but is also popular in Lebanon and Palestine. Made from roasted red peppers, toasted walnuts, and pomegranate syrup, it has an assertive flavor from the peppers with a slight sweetness from the pomegranate. The texture is fairly smooth, but with some texture remaining from the walnuts and bread crumbs. It makes a delicious addition to a meze platter when served as a dip with pita and raw vegetables. It also makes a great spread for a vegetable wrap and can also be used as a sauce for grilled vegetables or kebabs. Use gluten-free bread crumbs to make this gluten free.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 (7-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, drained or 3 home-roasted red bell peppers
½ cup toasted walnut pieces
½ cup panko bread crumbs
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pita triangles, for serving
Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened and lightly browned. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant. Remove from the heat to cool slightly.
Scrape the onion mixture into a food processor. Add the roasted peppers, toasted walnuts, panko, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, red pepper flakes, cumin, salt, and pepper. Process, pulsing, until well mixed and smooth. Scrape the mixture into a serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to blend. Bring to room temperature to serve. Serve with pita triangles.
To toast walnuts: Place the walnuts in a dry skillet over medium heat, shaking frequently, until fragrant and lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
Makes about 2½ cups dip
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
LOW OIL
The popular eggplant dip known as baba ghanoush gets a flavor boost from the addition of a seasoning blend known as baharat. Use this dip in the same way you would use hummus: as part of a meze platter, as a dip for raw vegetables or warm pita wedges, or as a spread for a sandwich wrap. This recipe is soy free if you omit the optional yogurt or use one that is soy free.
1 large eggplant
3 cloves garlic, slivered
1⁄3 cup tahini (sesame paste)
1⁄3 cup plain vegan yogurt (optional)
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more as needed
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons Baharat Spice Blend or store-bought
Salt
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint leaves
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Using a sharp knife, make several deep cuts in the eggplant and place the garlic pieces inside. Place on a baking sheet and bake until soft, about 45 minutes. Let cool. Remove the eggplant skin and discard.
Transfer the eggplant flesh and garlic to a food processor or blender. Add the tahini, yogurt, if using, lemon juice, olive oil, and spice blend. Season with salt to taste and process until smooth. If not using yogurt, you may want to add an additional tablespoon of lemon juice.
Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl and sprinkle with the mint. Serve at room temperature.
Serves 4 to 6
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
LOW OIL
Variously known as sigara (cigarette) or kalem (pen) böregi (or börek), these delicious appetizers are believed to have originated in what is now Turkey. These small cylindrical phyllo pastries filled with a savory stuffing are popular throughout the Middle East, as well as the Mediterranean and parts of Eastern Europe. They are traditionally filled with feta cheese and sometimes vegetables or ground meat. My favorite filling is made with kale and white beans. Wrapped tightly into little phyllo “pens,” they look a bit like crispy spanakopita spring rolls.
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more to brush phyllo
1 medium yellow onion, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
12 ounces kale, tough stems removed, finely chopped
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
½ teaspoon dried mint
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1½ cups cooked white beans, or 1 (15.5-ounce) can, drained, rinsed, and mashed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 (14 by 18-inch) sheets phyllo dough, thawed
¼ cup finely ground walnuts
Heat the oil in a deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the kale and cook, stirring, until wilted, about 5 minutes. Stir in the oregano, dill, mint, and lemon zest. Add the mashed white beans and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a bowl and mix well. Set aside or refrigerate to cool completely before using.
Place a sheet of phyllo dough on a flat work surface. Brush the sheet evenly with olive oil and top it with a second sheet of phyllo. And brush the second sheet with oil. Keep the remaining dough covered with plastic wrap or a clean towel to keep from drying out.
Use a sharp knife to cut the phyllo sheets into three strips. With the short side of the phyllo facing you, spoon a line of the filling (about 1-inch diameter) about 1 inch from the bottom edge of a strip of phyllo, about ½ inch from each side. Fold in the side ends of the phyllo toward the center, then use both hands to tightly roll up the phyllo to enclose the filling, evenly and firmly rolling it up into a tight roll, as you would a spring roll. Transfer the phyllo “pen” to a platter.
Repeat the process for the remaining phyllo until the filling is used up. When all of the böregi are assembled, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
To bake, preheat the oven to 400°F. Arrange the böregi on a nonstick baking sheet. Brush the top of the phyllo rolls with any remaining oil and sprinkle with the walnuts. Bake until crisp and golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes.
Makes 1 dozen böregi
SOY-FREE
Served with AJVAR
Baharat is the name of a spice blend used in Lebanon and throughout the Middle East and North Africa. The word means “spice,” and the actual spices in the blend vary from region to region, although most feature black pepper, coriander, cloves, and cumin in the mix. Turkish style baharat often includes mint and cassia, whereas Tunisian baharat features dried rose petals. Baharat spice mixtures can be found at Middle Eastern grocery stores and gourmet grocers. It’s a great addition to the baba ghanoush and can also be added to bean and grain dishes, or used as a spice rub on grilled vegetables, tofu, tempeh, or seitan.
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground fenugreek
1 teaspoon ground cloves or ginger
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg or cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground allspice or cardamom
In a small bowl, combine the pepper, coriander, cumin, fenugreek, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice and mix until well blended. If not using right away, store in an airtight container, where it will keep for several months.
Makes about 3 tablespoons spice blend
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
NO OIL
QUICK AND EASY
The Lebanese bread salad known as fattoush, which combines pieces of toasted pita bread with lettuce, tomatoes, and other salad vegetables tossed in lemon juice and olive oil, is the inspiration for this recipe. These wraps put the salad inside the bread instead of putting the bread into the salad. It has all the same great flavor you’d expect from fattoush, but in one convenient edible package.
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1½ cups cooked chickpeas, or 1 (15-ounce) can, drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon tahini (sesame paste)
1⁄3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
Pinch of cayenne
1⁄3 cup minced red onion
1⁄3 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
1⁄3 cup chopped fresh mint leaves
4 lavash or other flatbreads
1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 large ripe tomato, seeded and chopped
½ small green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2 cups shredded romaine lettuce
In a food processor, combine the garlic, chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and cayenne. Process until smooth and well mixed.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl, stir in the minced onion, parsley, and mint. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed.
Spread the mixture onto the flatbreads, dividing evenly. Sprinkle a line of cucumber, tomato, and bell pepper down one-third of each flatbread, then top each with shredded lettuce. Roll up and serve.
Serves 4
SOY-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
Sleek-Stuffed Eggplant with Pomegranate Sauce
The stuffing, made with greens and black-eyed peas, is called sleek, derived from the word silek, which is Arabic for “chard.” While the stuffing is certainly delicious enough to eat on its own, it’s even better baked inside an eggplant.
Eggplant
2 medium eggplants, halved lengthwise
Sleek
½ cup medium-grind bulgur
1¼ cups vegetable broth
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
9 ounces chard or kale, chopped
3 scallions, chopped
2 teaspoons Baharat Spice Blend
1½ cups cooked black-eyed peas, or 1 (15-ounce) can, drained and rinsed
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sauce
1 tablespoon olive oil or ¼ cup water
1 small yellow onion, chopped
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ cup ground walnuts
1 cup vegetable broth
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses (see Note)
To make the eggplant, preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the eggplant halves on a lightly oiled baking sheet, cut side down. Bake until partially softened, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the inside of the eggplants, leaving ¼-inch-thick shells intact. Coarsely chop the eggplant flesh and set aside, along with the shells.
To make the sleek, place the bulgur in a bowl. Add the vegetable broth and set aside for 30 minutes. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and golden. Add the chard, scallions, spice blend, blackeyed peas, and the reserved bulgur mixture and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chopped eggplant and lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Continue cooking to blend the flavors, about 5 minutes.
Divide the stuffing among the eggplant shells and arrange them in a lightly oiled baking dish. Cover tightly and bake until the eggplant shells are tender and the filling is hot, about 20 minutes.
To make the sauce, heat the oil or water in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, cover, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the turmeric, walnuts, broth, and salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce begins to thicken, about 15 minutes.
In a small bowl, combine the tomato paste, pomegranate molasses, and ½ cup of hot water. Blend well, then stir into the sauce and decrease the heat to low to keep warm.
To serve, spoon the sauce over the stuffed eggplant. Serve hot.
Note: If pomegranate molasses is unavailable, make your own: Combine ½ cup of bottled pomegranate juice (available in most supermarkets) with ¼ cup of natural sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to low, and cook until reduced by half and syrupy. Stir in 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.
Serves 4
SOY-FREE
This flavorful Balkan condiment made with red peppers can be used as a dip for pita chips or as a sandwich spread with crisp vegetables. It can also be enjoyed as a zesty accompaniment to the Kale-Stuffed Phyllo “Pens”. Ajvar often contains eggplant as well and can be made mild or spicy, according to taste.
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 fresh hot chile, minced or ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 roasted red bell peppers (jarred or home-roasted), chopped
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the chile and tomatoes and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Add the roasted red peppers and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and well blended.
Transfer the mixture to a food processor. Add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Pulse until the mixture is finely minced and well combined. You can leave a little texture remaining or you can puree it until smooth. Transfer to a bowl to serve. Store in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator where it will keep for up to a week.
Makes about 1½ cups ajvar
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
LOW OIL
QUICK AND EASY
I love roasted cauliflower any way I can get it, and this fragrantly spiced Middle Eastern version, known as zahra mekhla, is no exception. Za’atar spice is available in Middle Eastern markets, natural food stores, or online. You can also make your own by combining equal amounts of dried thyme, dried marjoram, dried sumac, and sesame seeds and grind them together in a spice grinder to make a fine powder.
1 medium head cauliflower, cored and cut into ½-inch slices
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup tahini
2 to 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon za’atar spice blend
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ cup water
Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet and set aside.
Break up the large cauliflower slices and place the cauliflower in a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat the cauliflower. Spread the cauliflower evenly on the prepared pan. Roast for 25 minutes, or until tender and nicely browned.
While the cauliflower is roasting, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Decease the heat to low. Stir in the tahini, 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice, za’atar, cumin, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the water and heat over low heat, stirring, until warm. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more lemon juice or salt, if needed. Set aside. Top the roasted cauliflower with the sauce and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve hot.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
Dates are perfect for stuffing and are so simple to make. This recipe features three different ways to do it. Choose your favorite or make some of each. I like to use the large Medjool dates for stuffing. For the chocolate version, use your favorite dark or semisweet chocolate, depending on your preference.
Chocolate Walnut Dates
20 whole pitted dates
20 toasted walnut halves
8 ounces dark or semisweet vegan chocolate, chopped
Line a baking sheet with waxed paper, parchment paper, or aluminum foil. Stuff each date with a walnut half and set aside.
Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and melt in the microwave for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring every 30 seconds, or until almost melted. Stir until smooth.
Dip the stuffed dates into the melted chocolate and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Place the baking sheet with the dates in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours before serving to allow the chocolate to firm up. Store leftovers in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator where they will keep for up to a week.
Makes 20 dates
20 whole pitted dates
20 toasted pecan halves
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Stuff each date with one pecan half and roll them in the confectioners’ sugar to coat. Arrange the dates on a serving plate and refrigerate until ready to serve. Store leftovers in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator where they will keep for up to a week.
Makes 20 dates
20 whole pitted dates
20 whole smoked almonds
Stuff each date with one almond and arrange on a serving plate. Serve at once or cover and set aside or refrigerate until needed. Store leftovers in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator, where they will keep for up to a week.
Makes 20 dates
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
NO OIL