India
India’s diverse regions have produced a variety of distinct cuisines, each one using a combination of pungent spices and fresh ingredients to create a palette of flavors unique to each area, such as the Goan tradition of cooking in coconut milk or the tandoori cooking of the Punjab region. As much of India’s population is vegetarian, Indian cuisine includes a wealth of colorful vegetable and bean dishes, often served over fragrant basmati rice in the southern regions, or with a variety of tasty breads in the north, accompanied by flavorful salads, chutneys, and other condiments. To me, foods from the Indian subcontinent are a kaleidoscope of rich experiences, and I’ve selected my favorite go-to dishes to share.
The aromatic spices of India create seemingly ethereal flavors that seduce us with their intoxicating aromas and can transform everyday vegetables such as spinach, cauliflower, eggplant, and tomatoes into extraordinarily flavorful dishes, such as Manchurian Cauliflower and Coconut Spinach and Lentil Dal.
Traditional Indian cooks make their own spice blends that vary for each dish, but you can also find prepared curry pastes and cooking sauces in Indian grocery stores, supermarkets, and natural food stores.
Northern Indian cooking, with its delicate, fragrantly spiced korma, kofta, and biryani dishes, is the type you find most often in Indian restaurants in America. There is typically a variety of vegan fare featured. Despite the hot and spicy reputation of Indian food, a good portion of its cuisine is mild yet flavorful.
To many Westerners, Indian food means “curry,” but anyone who knows an idli from an uttapam will tell you that Indian food isn’t just about curry, any more than Italian food is only about pizza. Among the many delights Indian food has to offer are savory snack foods called chaat typically sold by street vendors. Chaat (Hindi for “to lick or taste”) is a term used throughout India to refer to small plates of savory snacks, such as Papri Chaat. The particular varieties of chaat vary from region to region, although the most well-known chaat are pakoras (vegetable fritters coated in a chickpea batter) and samosas, savory filled pastries believed to have originated prior to the tenth century in Central Asia, arriving in India via trade routes.
HAKKA
Hakka cuisine is neither distinctly Indian nor Chinese. It originated with the Hakka people of China, many of whom settled in Kolkata, India, and thus their own culture is reflected in a cuisine composed of elements of both China and India. This intriguing cuisine, with its elusive and captivating flavors, is popular in India, both as street food and in restaurants. The fusion of these cultures gives us, among other delights, a sublime sauce that combines tamarind with soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar, or perhaps a dish seasoned with sesame oil and ginger blended with cumin and cilantro. Uniquely Indian- Chinese dishes include various noodle and rice preparations as well as Manchurian-style dishes that are often stir-fried and can be served dry or saucy. The dish that is perhaps most well known in the West is the delectable Hakka Noodles, wherein thin wheat noodles are stir-fried with crisp vegetables and a simple yet flavorful sauce with notes of sesame, ginger, and soy sauce, which the noodles readily absorb.
Due to their common borders, the influence of Indian cuisine is evident in Nepalese food, with their shared fondness for curried dishes, rice, and chutneys, and seasonings of ginger, cumin, and coriander. A couple of Nepalese gems that I love include dhal bhat tarkari, which consists of a trio of pureed lentils (dhal), rice (bhat), and curried vegetables (tarkari). The dish is typically served with a spicy condiment called achar, often made with tomatoes and hot chiles. The influence of China and Tibet are also evident in the foods of Nepal, notably in perhaps my favorite of all Nepalese specialties, the luscious dumplings known as Vegetable Momos.
SRI LANKA
Sri Lanka, an island country off the southern coast of India, is home to a variety of culinary traditions, including those of India and Malaysia. For example, like much of India, rice and curry are quite popular in Sri Lanka, with Sri Lankan curries being especially hot and spicy. Flatbreads, such as paratha and chapati, are common as well. Among the more intriguing dishes native to Sri Lanka are hoppers, also called appa, which are made from a fermented batter of rice flour, coconut milk, and a little Sri Lankan palm wine. The batter is left to rise, then cooked in a woklike, rounded pan so the dough remains soft and thick on the bottom, and thin and crunchy around the edges.
Kottu is a popular Sri Lankan street food made by stir-frying pieces of paratha with spices and vegetables. It is often served with a side of curry sauce to add extra flavor.
Coconut milk and jackfruit are frequently featured in recipes, such as Tofu and Jackfruit Curry, and food is often served on banana leaves. Chutneys and sambols accompany most meals, the most popular being coconut sambol, made of ground coconut mixed with chiles and lime juice.
These patties, called chola aloo tikki, are a favorite Indian appetizer or chaat. Chaat is Hindi for “to lick or taste.” The term refers to small bites that are typically purchased from street vendors in India. Tikki is another word for chaat, and chola aloo tikki are particularly delicious little patties made with chickpeas, potatoes, chiles, ginger, and cilantro.
1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
1½ cups cooked chickpeas, or 1 (15-ounce) can, drained and rinsed
1 hot green chile, seeded and minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Grapeseed oil or other neutral oil, for frying
Plain unsweetened vegan yogurt (use soy-free yogurt for soy free)
Mint-Cilantro Chutney or Tamarind Sauce
Steam the potatoes in the perforated top of a steamer pot over a saucepan of boiling water until soft, about 10 minutes.
While the potatoes are cooking, mash the chickpeas in a bowl. Add the cooked potatoes and mash them with the chickpeas. Add the chile, ginger, cilantro, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Mix well, then taste and adjust the seasonings.
Shape the mixture into eight small patties, about ½ inch thick. If the mixture is too wet, stir in a small amount of flour until firm enough to shape into patties.
Heat a thin layer of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the patties and cook until both sides are golden brown, turning once, about 3 minutes per side. Serve hot, drizzled with yogurt and your choice of mint-cilantro chutney or tamarind sauce.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
The word chaat is used broadly to describe savory snacks served from food carts in India. My favorite chaat is papri (also called papdi) chaat. It is made of crispy crackers that are typically topped with cooked potatoes, chickpeas, a drizzle of yogurt, a spicy mint or cilantro chutney, and a sweet tamarind sauce. A feast for the senses, papri chaat are all at once crunchy, creamy, spicy, and sweet.
Papri
1 cup white whole wheat flour
1½ tablespoons grapeseed oil or other neutral oil, plus more for frying
½ teaspoon salt
1⁄3 cup lukewarm water (105° to 115°F)
Toppings
1½ cups cooked chickpeas, or 1 (15-ounce) can, drained and rinsed
½ cup Mint-Cilantro Chutney or bottled mint chutney
1 cup plain vegan yogurt (use coconut yogurt for soy free)
1 ripe tomato, finely chopped (optional)
1 teaspoon chaat masala (see Note)
1 cup Tamarind Sauce (recipe follows) or bottled tamarind sauce or chutney
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
Note: Chaat masala, a spice mixture that is typically sprinkled on chaat, is available in Indian markets and online. It usually contains ground cumin, coriander, amchur (mango) powder, and black salt, among other spices. It adds a special flavor layer to papri chaat, but may be omitted if unavailable.
For the papri, combine the flour, oil, and salt in a bowl and mix well. Slowly stir in the water to make a smooth but firm dough, kneading for a minute or two to combine well. Do not overknead. Cover the bowl and set aside for 15 to 20 minutes.
Divide the dough into two equal parts. Take one piece of the dough and roll it out extremely thin, less than 1⁄16 inch thick. Once it is rolled, prick the dough with a fork. Use a 1½- to 2-inch round cookie cutter (or a small drinking glass) to cut the dough into round shapes. Repeat with the remaining half of the dough.
Heat about 1 inch of oil in a deep skillet over medium-high heat. Carefully add some of the papri to the hot oil and cook until light golden brown, flipping once, about 1 minute per side. Do not crowd. Be sure not to overcook or allow them to get dark. (Lower the heat if the papri begin to get too brown.)
Transfer the cooked papri to a paper towel–lined baking sheet to cool. Continue cooking in batches until all the papri are cooked. Let cool completely. The cooled papri can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container until needed for up to 3 weeks.
To assemble, coarsely mash the cooked chickpeas in a bowl. Stir in ¼ cup of the mint-cilantro chutney. Arrange the papri onto serving plates or in shallow bowls. Top each papri with a spoonful each of the cooked chickpea mixture. Spoon on the yogurt, top with the tomato, if using, then sprinkle on the chaat masala. Spoon on the remaining ¼ cup mint-cilantro chutney, tamarind sauce, and chopped cilantro. Serve immediately.
Serves 6
SOY-FREE
Tamarind is sold in many forms: as a paste, concentrate, and in a sticky brick of pulp that must be soaked, kneaded, and strained. For convenience, try to find it in paste or concentrate form. In addition to serving it with Papri Chaat, it also makes a delicious dipping sauce for pakoras or samosas.
1⁄3 cup tamarind paste or concentrate
1⁄3 cup pitted dates
1 cup warm water (105° to 115°F)
1⁄3 cup sugar
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon salt
In a food processor or high-speed blender, combine the tamarind paste, dates, water, sugar, cumin, coriander, ginger, and salt. Puree until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. If the sauce is too thick, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until your desired consistency is reached. Transfer to a bowl and set aside or cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use. Properly stored, the sauce will keep for a week.
Makes about 1¾ cups sauce
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
NO OIL
QUICK AND EASY
This fragrant fresh chutney adds a delicious flavor dimension to papri chaat when paired with tamarind sauce and a little vegan yogurt. This chutney can be served as a condiment with most any Indian meal.
1 cup packed fresh mint leaves
½ cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
1 serrano or other small hot green chile, seeded and chopped
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon natural sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup water
Combine the mint, cilantro, chile, lemon juice, sugar, and salt in a blender or food processor and process to a paste. Add the water and process until blended. Transfer to a bowl and set aside or cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use. Properly stored, the chutney will keep well for up to 5 days.
Makes about ¾ cup chutney
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
NO OIL
QUICK AND EASY
The texture of this dish should be dry rather than saucy, as the noodles absorb the flavorful sauce. For a less spicy dish, use less red pepper flakes and sriracha (or leave them out). For extra protein, add diced extra-firm tofu or thin strips of seitan.
Hakka noodles can be found in well-stocked Asian or Indian markets—look for Wai Wai or Ching brands. If unavailable, you can substitute angel hair pasta, rice or wheat vermicelli, or even ramen noodles. If you use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce, this recipe will be soy free.
8 ounces hakka noodles (see headnote)
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 cups shredded cabbage
1 small carrot, coarsely shredded
1 small red bell pepper, seeded and cut into thin strips
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 scallions, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon natural sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup sliced mushrooms (optional)
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons tomato puree or ketchup
1 teaspoon sriracha or other hot chili sauce
1½ tablespoons rice vinegar
Cook the noodles according to the package directions. Drain well, rinsing under cold water, then transfer the well-drained noodles to a bowl. Toss with the sesame oil and set aside.
Heat the grapeseed oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, cabbage, carrot, bell pepper, garlic, scallions, and ginger and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle with sugar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the mushrooms, if using, and red pepper flakes and stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes longer. Add the cooked noodles, soy sauce, tomato puree, sriracha, and vinegar, and stir-fry for a few minutes longer to mix well and heat through. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Serve hot.
Note: To make this dish in a flash, buy bagged shredded cabbage and carrots instead of shredding your own, and use the super-quick ramen noodles option. Dinner can be on the table in just a few minutes.
Serves 4
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
If you enjoy the flavor profiles of Indian and Chinese cooking, chances are you’ll love this unique dish, said to be developed by a Chinese community living in India. The tantalizing sauce that cloaks the cauliflower combines ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil, with tomato puree and cilantro. To make this soy-free, use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce; for gluten free, use a gluten-free flour.
Cauliflower
1 head cauliflower, cut into bite-size florets (about 6 cups)
1⁄3 cup chickpea flour
1⁄3 cup all-purpose flour
1⁄3 cup cornstarch
1 teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon cayenne
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ cup water
Grapeseed oil or other neutral oil, for frying
Sauce
1 large yellow onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 to 2 teaspoons hot sauce
½ cup tomato puree or ketchup
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
½ cup water
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
To make the cauliflower, steam the florets in a perforated steamer pot over a saucepan of boiling water until just tender, about 4 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, then pat dry and set aside. Preheat the oven to 250°F.
In a bowl, combine both flours, cornstarch, garlic powder, cayenne, and black pepper. Add the soy sauce and water and mix to make a batter.
Heat a thin layer of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, dip the cauliflower pieces in the batter, then add to the hot skillet and cook until golden brown, turning gently about halfway through, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a heatproof platter or baking pan and keep warm in the oven.
To make the sauce, add the onion to the same skillet (used for the cauliflower) over medium-high heat and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce, hot sauce, tomato puree, and sesame oil; cook for about a minute. Gradually add the water, stirring constantly, and simmer until the sauce is thickened, about 2 minutes. Taste for seasoning.
Return the fried cauliflower to the pan and stir into the sauce; cook another minute or two to coat. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the cilantro. Serve hot.
Serves 4 to 6
GLUTEN-FREE OPTION
SOY-FREE OPTION
Coconut Spinach and Lentil Dal
This recipe combines two Indian classics: lentil dal and saag paneer. The spinach from saag paneer (without the cheesy cubes of paneer) is paired with a protein-rich lentil dal in a creamy coconut sauce.
1 cup dried lentils
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
Salt
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil or ¼ cup water
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1 hot green chile, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon garam masala
Pinch of ground cardamom (optional)
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes, drained and finely chopped
8 to 10 ounces fresh or frozen spinach, steamed and chopped
1 (13.5-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Combine the lentils in a large saucepan with 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to low, add the turmeric, and simmer partially covered for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Uncover and continue to simmer until the lentils are soft and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes.
While the lentils are cooking, heat the oil or water in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, cover, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, and chile and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the cumin, coriander, garam masala, cardamom, if using, and tomatoes, stirring constantly for about 30 seconds longer. Stir in the spinach, coconut milk, and cilantro and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the spinach mixture to the lentils and stir well to combine. Taste to adjust the seasonings, if needed. Serve hot.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
LOW OIL
Tamarind Chickpeas with Green Beans and Cauliflower
This fragrant stew features the sweet-tart flavor of tamarind along with ginger and warming spices in a creamy coconut sauce that envelopes the chickpeas and vegetables. If you wish, you may add diced sweet potatoes to add more bulk or substitute broccoli for the green beans or cauliflower. Serve over cooked brown basmati rice topped with plain vegan yogurt or mango chutney. Warm naan, an Indian flatbread traditionally baked in a tandoor oven, but now widely available in supermarkets, also makes a delicious accompaniment.
1 tablespoon olive oil or ¼ cup water
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small hot green chile, seeded and minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
2 teaspoons garam masala
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon tamarind paste
1 teaspoon natural sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes, undrained
6 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups small cauliflower florets
3 cups cooked chickpeas, or 2 (15-ounce) cans, drained and rinsed
1 (13.5-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Heat the oil or water in a large pot. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes to soften over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to medium and stir in the garlic, chile, and ginger and cook for 2 minutes, then stir in the garam masala, cumin, and coriander. Stir in the tamarind paste, sugar, and salt, then add the tomatoes and their juice. Add the green beans, cauliflower, and chickpeas, then add the coconut milk and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook for 15 minutes, then uncover and continue cooking until the vegetables are tender and the flavors are well blended, about 5 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Garnish with cilantro and serve hot.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
LOW OIL
This is a variation of a recipe for kosambri, a traditional South Indian salad, shared with me by a lovely Indian woman in the market many years ago. We were standing near the yellow split mung beans when I asked her how she prepares them. She promptly wrote down her family’s recipe for this salad. I never saw her again, but all these years later, I’m still enjoying the salad. You can prepare this salad ahead of time, but if you do, reserve the cilantro and add just before serving.
1⁄3 cup yellow split mung beans, washed and drained (see Note)
1 large carrot, coarsely shredded
1 cup finely chopped cucumber
1⁄3 cup unsalted roasted cashews
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons grapeseed oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 hot green chile, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Salt
Soak the mung beans in 3 cups of water for 3 hours or up to 8 hours. Drain the beans and place them in a large bowl. Add the carrot, cucumber, cashews, and lemon juice. Stir to combine and set aside.
Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and cover the pan. The mustard seeds will start popping. When the popping stops, add the chile, and stir for 30 seconds to bring out the flavor, then stir in the ginger and remove from the heat to cool. Add the mixture to the salad along with the cilantro and season with salt to taste. Toss gently to combine and serve.
Note: Look for yellow split mung beans in Indian markets, natural food stores, or online.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
LOW OIL
QUICK AND EASY
Koftas are essentially Indian meatballs, and kofta curry are meatballs, often made with some sort of meat, in a creamy curry sauce. The koftas in this recipe are made with a chickpeas, and a variety of vegetables and seasonings. For a mild version, omit the chiles. Serve over hot basmati rice to soak up the delicious sauce. Use gluten-free bread crumbs to make this gluten-free.
Koftas
1 cup finely chopped carrot
1 cup finely chopped cauliflower
1 small russet potato, peeled and finely diced (1 cup)
1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas, blotted dry
½ cup thawed frozen green peas, blotted dry
½ cup dry bread crumbs, plus more as needed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon cayenne
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grapeseed oil or other neutral oil, for frying
Gravy
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 to 2 green chiles, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
2 teaspoons garam masala
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon sugar
1 (14.5-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon cornstarch blended with ¼ cup water
½ cup unsweetened coconut milk or other nondairy milk
To make the koftas, steam the carrot, cauliflower, and potato in a steamer basket over a saucepan of boiling water until tender, then blot dry and transfer to a bowl. Add the chickpeas and mash well. Stir in the green peas, bread crumbs, cilantro, ginger, and spices. Press a small amount of the mixture together. It should hold together when pressed. If the mixture is too wet, add more bread crumbs. Use your hands to shape the mixture into 1½-inch balls or patties, pressing well so they hold together.
Heat a thin layer of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the kofta balls, in batches if necessary, and sauté until golden brown all over, about 8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and keep the cooked kofta warm in a low oven.
To make the gravy, heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, chile, and ginger and cook for 30 seconds, then stir in the garam masala, coriander, sugar, tomatoes, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes to blend the flavors. Transfer the tomato mixture to a food processor or blender. Add the cornstarch mixture and blend until smooth. Return the mixture to the saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to thicken. Decrease the heat to low, stir in the coconut milk, and keep warm until ready to serve.
To serve, transfer the koftas to a serving bowl and pour the gravy over the koftas. Serve hot.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE OPTION
SOY-FREE
Momos are filled dumplings similar to Chinese dumplings (bāozi or bao) or Japanese gyoza, These are popular in Nepal, Tibet, and northeast India. Traditionally filled with a variety of different meats and vegetables, depending on the region, here they are made with a vegetable filling of cabbage, carrot, and onion. Momos are especially delicious accompanied by a bowl of Tomato Achar. To save time, you can use vegan wonton or gyoza wrappers instead of making your own.
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
Salt
¾ cup hot water (115° to 120°F)
1 small yellow onion, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon curry powder
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups finely shredded cabbage
½ cup coarsely shredded carrot
½ cup minced scallions
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Tomato Achar, for serving
In a large bowl, combine the flour, 1 tablespoon of the oil, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and stir in the water. Mix well, kneading until the dough is smooth. Add a bit more flour if the dough is too sticky or a splash more water if it’s too dry. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes.
While the dough is resting, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, ginger, curry powder, and pepper and cook for 30 seconds. Add the cabbage and carrot and stir-fry until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the scallions and cilantro, and season to taste with salt. Mix well and remove from the heat to cool before assembling.
When ready to assemble, flour your hands and knead the dough for 2 minutes on a lightly floured surface, then divide into 1½-inch pieces. Roll each piece of dough into a ball between your palms. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces. On a lightly floured surface, use a rolling pin to roll out the balls into flattened 4-inch circles.
Preheat a steamer, oiling the steamer rack well to prevent the dumplings from sticking. Place one wrapper on a work surface and spoon about 1½ tablespoons of the filling mixture into the center. Use your hands to bring all edges together to the center, making folds with the dough. Pinch the folds to tightly seal the stuffed dumpling. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
Arrange the uncooked momos in the prepared steamer. Cover and steam until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Remove the dumplings from the steamer and arrange on a plate. Serve hot with the Tomato Achar.
Makes about 24 momos
SOY-FREE
Similar to chutney or salsa, achar is a must-have condiment for momos, but it’s also delicious spooned over rice or grilled tofu. It’s even good as a dip for tortilla chips or pita chips. If you prefer a less spicy sauce, use only one chile instead of two or three.
Prominent in Nepali cuisine, achar can be spicy, sour, or sweet, and can be made with a variety of ingredients, including tomatoes, radishes, and even cooked potatoes.
1 (14-ounce) can fire-roasted tomatoes, well drained
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 to 3 fresh hot chiles, seeded and minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon curry powder
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
In a blender or food processor, combine the tomatoes, cilantro, chiles, garlic, ginger, lemon juice, cumin, curry powder, paprika, sugar, and salt. Blend until smooth, then taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Transfer to a bowl to serve. If not serving right away cover and refrigerate for up to a week.
Makes about 2 cups achar
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
NO OIL
QUICK AND EASY
This curry combines the tofu of China, jackfruit of Southeast Asia, and a spice blend from Sri Lanka, making it a “curry without borders.” If you don’t want to make your own spice blend, you can substitute your favorite Indian curry powder. The texture of jackfruit is so similar to meat that it is sometimes called “vegetable meat” in certain parts of Asia. You can replace the tofu with seitan, chickpeas, or reconstituted Soy Curls.
14-ounces extra-firm tofu, drained and pressed
1 (20-ounce) can jackfruit, packed in water or brine, drained (see Note)
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 hot green chile, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon or more Sri Lankan Curry Powder (recipe follows) or other hot curry powder
1 (13-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
4 cups cooked brown basmati rice, for serving
¼ cup roasted cashews
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
Cut the tofu into bite-size pieces and thinly slice the jackfruit. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, cover, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the lid, stir in the garlic, ginger, and chile and cook for 1 minute to soften. Stir in the tomato paste and curry powder, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Slowly stir in the coconut milk, tofu, and jackfruit and bring just to a boil.
Lower the heat to a simmer and add salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to allow the flavors to meld. Stir in the lemon juice, then taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Serve hot over cooked brown basmati rice sprinkled with cashews and cilantro.
Note: Canned jackfruit (packed in water or brine) is readily available at Asian markets and online. (Do not get the kind packed in syrup.) If you can’t find it, substitute a favorite cooked vegetable, such as diced zucchini or broccoli florets.
Serves 4 to 6
GLUTEN-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
LOW OIL
Traditionally, dried curry leaves and rampe (or pandan) are used in Sri Lankan curry spice mixtures, but as they are difficult to find, this recipe doesn’t call for them and is delicious without them. For a less hot curry powder, cut back on the chiles; for a spicier version, add an extra one. In addition to using in Tofu and Jackfruit Curry, you can use this curry powder in virtually any recipe calling for curry powder—or to simply jazz up cooked rice.
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ to 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional, see Note)
1 small cinnamon stick
¼ teaspoon whole cloves
¼ teaspoon cardamom seeds
3 dried hot red chiles
¼ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Toast all the ingredients in a small dry skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly until they are fragrant and lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Be careful not to let them burn.
Transfer the toasted spices to a clean spice grinder, highspeed blender, or food processor and grind to a fine powder. The curry powder is now ready to use in recipes. If not using right away, allow the mixture to cool completely, then transfer to a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid and store in the refrigerator or at room temperature for up to 3 months.
Note: Fenugreek seeds are the seeds of the fenugreek plant. They are used in Indian and Sri Lankan cooking and can be found in Indian markets, well-stocked supermarkets, and online. They have a pleasantly bitter taste and should be used sparingly so as not to overwhelm a dish.
Makes about ¼ cup curry powder
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
NO OIL
Sri Lankan pol sambol is an addictively flavorful condiment made with coconut, lime juice, and ground chiles. The flavor should be a harmonious blending of spicy, sour, and salty, according to your taste. Some versions of pol sambol leave out the shallot, while others include a bit of Maldive fish, coarsely ground black pepper, and minced curry leaves. Use a food processor to finely chop the coconut and shallot, if desired. Enjoy pol sambol on its own with some flatbread to scoop it up, or alongside a rice or curry dish. It is an ideal accompaniment to Tofu and Jackfruit Curry.
1½ cups grated fresh coconut, or 1 cup dried unsweetened
2 tablespoons finely minced shallot
½ to 1 teaspoon cayenne
½ teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon salt
1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
½ cup unsweetened coconut milk (if using dried coconut)
In a bowl, combine the coconut, shallot, ½ teaspoon cayenne, paprika, salt, and 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, or to taste. Stir to mix well. If using dried coconut, heat the coconut milk in a saucepan or in the microwave until hot. Stir the coconut milk into the coconut mixture.
Set aside the sambol at room temperature for 30 minutes to allow flavors to develop. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding any or all of the additional cayenne and lime juice, as desired. If not using right away, cover and refrigerate until needed.
Makes about 1½ cups sambol
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
NO OIL
These fragrant cookies are inspired by the Indian cookie known as laddu, made with toasted chickpea flour and ground cardamom. Traditionally, laddu are rolled into small balls (laddu means “ball” in Sanskrit) and are not baked, but I break with tradition with this slightly flattened baked version. Chickpea flour is widely available at natural food stores, ethnic markets, and online. Toasting the chickpea flour removes any raw taste and gives it a richer nutty flavor. These flavorful cookies are especially good served with hot chai.
1½ cups chickpea flour
¼ cup finely ground almonds or pistachios
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
2⁄3 cup confectioners’ sugar
¼ cup vegan butter
1⁄3 cup almond milk
1⁄8 teaspoon almond extract (optional)
¼ cup crushed pistachios
Spread the chickpea flour and ground almonds in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the flour and almonds begin to darken and become fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes. Watch carefully, so it doesn’t burn. Remove from the heat and continue to cook, stirring for another minute or two to prevent scorching, until the flour has darkened completely. Transfer the toasted flour and almonds to a heatproof bowl and stir in the cardamom and sugar. Mix well to combine thoroughly. Set aside to let cool to room temperature.
Cut the vegan butter into the chickpea flour mixture. Add the almond milk and almond extract, if using, stirring until it is a workable dough, adding more almond milk if the mixture is too dry, or a little chickpea flour if it is sticky.
Dust a little chickpea flour on your work surface, then place the dough on the work surface and flatten the dough into a 6-inch square about ¾ inch thick. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Unwrap the dough, roll out the dough, and cut into desired shapes, using a knife or cookie cutters. Arrange the cookies on nonstick cookie sheets, spaced 1-inch apart. Press the crushed pistachios into the top of the cookies. Bake for about 25 minutes, or until the bottoms of the cookies are golden.
Remove from the oven, and set aside to let cool to room temperature before serving. To store, transfer to an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Makes about 2 dozen laddu
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
