Asia
I have a particular affinity to the cuisines of Asia. It’s fair to say I’ve never encountered a dish from that part of the world that I didn’t like. I’m continually amazed at the captivating flavors that come from Asian cuisines, from the delicately seasoned cooking of Japan to the fiery dishes of Thailand, the hearty specialties of Korea and China, and the fragrant cuisines of Vietnam and Indonesia. By virtue of geography, similarities exist in the use of certain ingredients throughout the entire region, such as rice and soy sauce, but if you are like me, you love to discover each unique cuisine and regional specialties within each country.
Like the chapter devoted to the food of India, recipes from the countries of China, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, and Indonesia could easily fill their own chapters. Since that would be beyond the scope of this book, I’ve endeavored to choose some representative recipes from each of these countries for this section.
The recipes in this book are my personal snapshot of cuisines from around the world, shown through the subjective lens of my personal preferences. But some countries are so rich in regional variety, a snapshot barely scratches the surface. China is a great example of this.
In a country that more than 1.35 billion people call home, cooking has been an art form for a millennia before France was France. Meal preparation reflects table etiquette, appearance, and taste as described by Confucius, a Chinese philosopher, and nutrition and balance found in Taoism, an ancient religious philosophy that emphasizes harmonious living.
The regional cuisines of China are distinctive, even from each other. When Westerners speak of Chinese food, they usually refer to Cantonese cuisine, owing to the immigration of workers from Guangdong in the nineteenth century. Others include Hunan and Szechuan, the “spicy” cuisines of China. Hunan is known for its use of oil, rich colors, and cooking techniques that produce a variety of textures as well as the savory and spicy flavors and seasonal menus. Szechuan cuisine is known for its bold flavors and skillful cooking, claiming thirty-eight different cooking methods. It features pungent seasonings including the “three peppers” (prickly ash, black pepper, and hot red chile), “three aromas” (shallot, ginger, and garlic), “seven tastes” (sweet, sour, tingling, spicy, bitter, piquant, and salty), and “eight flavors” (fish-flavored, sour with spice, pepper-tingling, odd flavor, tingling with spice, red spicy oily, ginger sauce, and home cooking). Some of these features are evident in Kung Pao Seitan and Eggplant and Szechuan Bok Choy.
I can only include a small number of the many Chinese dishes that I enjoy, and I offer here the dishes that I love to make at home, such as Stay-in Vegetable Fried Rice and Sesame Noodles with Tofu, when the desire for Chinese food strikes.
What’s not to love about lettuce wraps? Made famous by a popular Chinese/ American restaurant chain, they’re loaded with great flavors and textures, filled with healthy and delicious ingredients, easy to make, and fun to eat! They can be served as a light lunch, or enjoy them as an appetizer, by spooning the filling into smaller lettuce cups. Here they are filled with a savory tofu and vegetable mixture, while in restaurants, you’re more likely to find a chicken or shrimp filling.
Sauce
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon peanut butter
1 tablespoon agave nectar
1 teaspoon Asian garlic-chili sauce
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Filling
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon Asian garlic-chili paste
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
½ cup minced yellow onion
1 carrot, coarsely shredded
1 cup chopped white or shiitake mushrooms
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
14 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained, pressed, and crumbled
4 scallions, chopped
1 head Bibb or Boston lettuce, leaves separated
¼ cup chopped or crushed roasted peanuts
To make the sauce, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, peanut butter, agave, garlic-chili sauce, ginger, and sesame oil in a bowl or a blender and stir or blend until smooth and well mixed. Set aside.
To make the filling, combine the hoisin, soy sauce, vinegar, and chili paste in a bowl, stirring to mix well. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, mushrooms, and ginger and stir-fry for 3 minutes to soften. Stir in the tofu, scallions, and the reserved hoisin mixture and cook for 5 minutes to blend flavors and heat through, stirring to evaporate any liquid.
To serve, spoon the tofu mixture into the lettuce leaves, drizzle with the reserved sauce, and sprinkle with peanuts. Serve immediately.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
A staple of Chinese restaurants in the United States, take-out fried rice can be too oily, contain not enough vegetables, and be flavorless. It also generally contains scrambled egg, which I’ve replaced with crumbled tofu. With this recipe you can stay in and make it yourself, using less oil, adding more vegetables, and seasoning it just the way you like it.
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 large carrot, coarsely shredded
5 scallions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1½ teaspoons grated fresh ginger
8 ounces extra-firm tofu, well-drained and crumbled
¾ cup frozen green peas, thawed
3 cups cold cooked long-grain rice
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
½ teaspoon natural sugar
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
Heat the grapeseed oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the onion and carrot and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add the scallions, garlic, and ginger and stir-fry for 1 minute longer. Stir in the tofu, peas, and rice, then add the soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and sesame oil. Stir-fry to mix well and heat through until hot, about 5 minutes. Serve hot.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
This spicy Szechuan stir-fry traditionally made with chicken is a fixture on American Chinese restaurant menus. Eggplant and seitan replace the chicken in this version, although you could instead use tempeh, extra-firm tofu, reconstituted Soy Curls, or sliced mushrooms. Instead of snow peas (or in addition) you can add other vegetables such as thinly sliced carrot or Chinese cabbage.
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons natural sugar
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1⁄3 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons dry sherry or rice wine
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon hoisin sauce
½ cup water
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
8 ounces seitan, cut into 1-inch dice
8 ounces eggplant, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 large red bell pepper, seeded and diced
2 ounces snow peas, trimmed
3 tablespoons dry-roasted unsalted peanuts or cashews
3 to 4 cups hot cooked long-grain rice
In a bowl, combine the cornstarch, sugar, red pepper flakes, and soy sauce, stirring to blend well. Stir in the sherry, sesame oil, hoisin, and water, mixing well. Set aside.
Heat the grapeseed oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add the seitan and eggplant and stir-fry until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, bell pepper, and snow peas and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the reserved soy sauce mixture and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are crisp-tender and the sauce is thickened, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Stir in the peanuts and serve hot over rice.
Serves 4
QUICK AND EASY
This luscious stir-fry is inspired by the classic Taiwanese sesame noodle dish called ma jiang mian. I like to combine the chewy noodles with lots of crisp vegetables and diced tofu, all cloaked with a delicious sauce made creamy with sesame paste. Black vinegar is traditional to the original, but rice vinegar may be substituted. For a spicier sauce, add more sriracha. Some Chinese noodles contain eggs, so be sure to check the ingredient lists before you buy them. Regular linguine makes a good substitute. Use rice noodles or other gluten-free noodles to make this gluten-free.
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons sesame paste
2 tablespoons black vinegar or rice vinegar
1 tablespoon vegan oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon sriracha sauce
1⁄3 cup hot water
12 ounces vegan Chinese noodles or linguine
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
8 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into ½-inch dice
3 cups shredded napa cabbage
1 carrot, coarsely shredded
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
4 scallions, chopped
2 ounces snow peas, trimmed and cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
In a small bowl combine the soy sauce, sesame paste, vinegar, oyster sauce, sugar, and sriracha. Stir to blend well, then stir in the water and set aside.
Cook the noodles according to the package directions. Drain and return to the pot. Add the sesame oil and toss to coat. Set aside.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the grapeseed oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the tofu and stir-fry until it is golden brown all over, about 4 minutes. Remove the tofu from the skillet and set aside.
Reheat the skillet with the remaining 1 tablespoon of grapeseed oil. Add the cabbage and carrot and stir-fry for 1 minute to soften. Add the garlic, ginger, scallions, and snow peas, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the reserved tofu, noodles, and sauce and stir-fry until hot and well combined. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Serve hot sprinkled with sesame seeds.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
Red cooking, or hong shao, is a method of braising in soy sauce and rock sugar that produces deeply savory dishes with a rich mahogany hue. A specialty of Shanghai, tempeh, tofu, or seitan all do well made this way. The soy sauce thickens during cooking while the sugar caramelizes, producing a glaze-like sauce. Traditionally aromatics like ginger, star anise, and citrus peel are used for depth of flavor, but I find that a little hoisin sauce works well, with less fuss, and adds to the color.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons dry sherry
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon Asian chili paste (such as sambal oelek)
1 cup water
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 teaspoon natural sugar
1 pound tempeh, steamed for 15 minutes, then cut into ½-inch dice
6 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and halved
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 scallions, thinly sliced diagonally
In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, sherry, vinegar, hoisin, chili paste, and ½ cup of the water, stirring to blend. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a deep skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the sugar, stirring to dissolve. Add the tempeh, mushrooms, and garlic, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the soy sauce mixture and stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes, stir-frying to coat the tempeh. Stir in the remaining ½ cup of water and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened, stirring occasionally. If the sauce hasn’t thickened enough, turn up the heat to reduce the liquid further, until the desired consistency is reached. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Serve hot sprinkled with scallions.
Serves 4 to 6
GLUTEN-FREE
LOW OIL
This easy but flavorful stir-fry is typical of the cuisine of the Szechuan province of China. Made with bok choy, it’s a delicious side dish but you could add strips of tofu or seitan and serve it over rice to make it a satisfying meal. This stir-fry is also delicious made with broccoli, green beans, or asparagus.
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1½ pounds baby bok choy, trimmed and halved lengthwise
3 shallots, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
4 scallions, minced
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon mirin
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon natural sugar
Heat the grapeseed oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bok choy and shallots and stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes, or until almost tender. Add the garlic, ginger, and scallions and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil, mirin, red pepper flakes, and sugar and stir-fry until the bok choy is tender and nicely coated with the sauce, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
Almond cookies are a Chinese New Year’s tradition because they are believed to symbolize coins and abundance in the new year. They are typically made with egg and sometimes lard, but this version assures that you don’t have to miss out. If you need another reason to make a batch of these crisp chewy cookies, April 9 is Chinese Almond Cookie Day. A soy-free vegan butter will make this recipe soy free.
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup finely ground almonds (almond meal)
1 cup natural sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup vegan butter
2 tablespoons almond milk
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
24 whole blanched almonds
In a food processor, combine the flour, ground almonds, sugar, baking soda, and salt. Pulse to mix. Add the vegan butter, almond milk, almond extract, and vanilla and process just long enough to incorporate the butter. Do not overprocess. If the dough is too dry, add 1 additional tablespoon of almond milk.
Shape the dough into a 2-inch diameter log, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour or longer to chill. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
Slice the chilled dough into ½-inch slices. Arrange the cookies on the prepared baking sheets, about 2 inches apart. Gently press an almond into each cookie. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the bottoms and edges start to turn golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the pan for several minutes, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely. Once completely cool, the cookies may be stored in an airtight container.
Makes about 2 dozen cookies
SOY-FREE OPTION
The subtle flavor balance of hot, sweet, sour, bitter, and salty at the same time make Thai food a sensory marvel. Rice and noodles are both enjoyed in Thailand, and often prepared with a variety of vegetables, seasonings, and sauces. Thai food is hot—not just burn-your-tongue “hot,” but also hot as in trendy. No wonder. The intoxicating flavors and aromas combine to create dishes that many people find almost addictive. Some say the quality comes from the quasi-euphoric feeling you can experience while eating an especially hot Thai meal. It seems that the brain’s pain sensors release the high-inducing endorphins because the brain thinks the tongue has been “injured.”
Despite Thai food’s hot and spicy reputation, you don’t need an asbestos tongue to sample all Thai fare. Some dishes, such as the classic noodle dish, pad thai, are quite mild. And while the red and green curries can fly off the heat chart, the flavorful yellow Masaman curry, studded with chunks of pineapple, is often more sweet than spicy. Keep in mind that when you cook Thai, you can temper the degree of heat in recipes by simply using fewer chiles.
While Thai food has some similarities to Vietnamese, Chinese, and even Indian cooking, there is no mistaking this distinctive cuisine and its skillful blending of piquant ingredients. The home cook can find many Thai ingredients in Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets. Look for Thai basil, chiles, lemongrass, coconut milk, and vegetarian oyster sauce. If you can’t find fresh Thai basil, consider growing your own—one taste will tell you it’s worth the effort. If Thai chiles are unavailable, crushed red pepper flakes are an easy substitute. Store a generous supply of jasmine rice along with dried rice noodles and you’ll always have a base for a wonderful meal any time you want to experience the seductively complex flavor harmonies of Thai cuisine.
The intoxicating fragrance and flavors of lemongrass, ginger, and cilantro mingle with chili heat, chewy mushrooms, and sweet tomatoes and green peas for a bracingly delicious soup. If you’re enjoying this as a first course, you can keep it lighter by eliminating the tofu and serving smaller portions. For a main dish soup, keep in the tofu (or use seitan or Soy Curls) and add some cooked noodles when ready to serve. For extra heat, add more chili paste, or drizzle in a little hot chili oil.
1 medium yellow onion or 3 shallots, halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced
1 tablespoon minced fresh lemongrass (white part only)
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger or sliced galangal (see Note)
5 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons Asian chili paste
6 cups water
6 ounces shiitake mushroom caps, thinly sliced
4 scallions, coarsely chopped
8 ounces extra-firm tofu, cut into ½-inch dice
8 cherry or grape tomatoes, halved lengthwise
½ cup frozen green peas
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
½ teaspoon natural sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large pot, combine the onion, lemongrass, ginger, and soy sauce. Stir in the chili paste, then add the water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Add the mushrooms, scallions, tofu, tomatoes, peas, cilantro, lime juice, and sugar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer 10 minutes longer, then taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Serve hot.
Note: Galangal is commonly used in Thai cooking. Galangal’s flavor is similar to that of ginger, but more intense. Look for galangal in Asian markets. If unavailable, ginger root is a reasonable alternative.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
NO OIL
I first encountered the sublime Thai appetizer known as miang kam, many years ago at Arun’s restaurant in Chicago, where individual wild pepper leaves held tiny mounds of toasted coconut, crunchy peanuts, pungent ginger, zesty lime, and spicy chiles. To eat it, you pick up a leaf with its toppings and pop it in your mouth—it’s a delicious flavor explosion that brings everything you like about Thai food into one bite. Serve this easy and unusual appetizer before a Thai meal. Wild pepper leaves (bai cha plu) can be found in Asian markets, but Belgian endive or baby spinach leaves provide more accessible alternatives.
Sauce
½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut, toasted
¼ cup unsalted roasted peanuts
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons palm sugar or other natural sugar
1 tablespoon minced scallion
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
½ cup water
Leaves
24 Belgian endive leaves (or spinach, leaf lettuce, or wild pepper leaves; see headnote)
Filling
3 small Thai chiles, cut into very thin rounds
1 fresh lime, sliced and finely chopped, including peel
½ cup roasted peanuts, crushed
½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, toasted
¼ cup finely minced scallion
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1⁄3 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
To make the sauce, in a small saucepan, combine the coconut, peanuts, soy sauce, sugar, scallion, ginger, and water. Bring to a boil.
Lower the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes to thicken. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Transfer to a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Transfer to a small serving bowl and place on a large serving platter.
On the same serving platter, arrange the leaves and a small amount of each of the filling ingredients in a mound on each leaf. Alternatively, arrange six leaves with a mound of the filling ingredients on individual salad plates. Top each with a small amount of sauce or serve the sauce alongside in a separate small bowl. To eat, place a filling-topped leaf in your hand, top with a small spoonful of sauce, and eat it in one bite. Repeat.
Note: Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy-free.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
NO OIL
QUICK AND EASY
A popular Thai appetizer, satays are usually made with meat, but there are lots of plant-based ingredients that are ideal candidates for this skewered and sauced treat. If you’re not a fan of eggplant, you can use portobello mushrooms or seitan instead. Be sure to soak the bamboo skewers in cold water for 30 minutes to prevent them from burning. Instead of grilling or broiling, you can roast the satays in a 425°F oven. Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy free.
Peanut Sauce
¾ cup unsweetened coconut milk
2 tablespoons peanut butter
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon natural sugar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon natural sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne
4 Japanese eggplants, halved or quartered lengthwise and cut into 1-inch slices
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
Shredded lettuce, for serving
To make the peanut sauce, combine the coconut milk, peanut butter, ginger, garlic, sugar, soy sauce, and lemon juice in a bowl or food processor. Blend until smooth. Transfer to a saucepan and simmer over low heat until slightly thickened, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
In a small bowl, combine the coriander, cumin, sugar, salt, and cayenne. Set aside.
Preheat the broiler or grill. Place the eggplants in a large bowl and drizzle with the oil. Toss to coat. Sprinkle the eggplants with the reserved spice mixture, tossing to coat. Press any remaining spice mixture from the bottom of the bowl into the eggplants so the spices adhere.
Thread the eggplants onto the skewers and place them under the broiler or on the grill until softened and well browned, 5 to 7 minutes per side.
Arrange the skewered eggplants on plates lined with the shredded lettuce. Drizzle the skewers with some of the peanut sauce and divide the reserved peanut sauce among four small dipping bowls and place them on the plates with the skewered eggplants. Serve at once.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
Thai Hangover Noodles with Tofu and Thai Basil
Also known as drunken noodles, the combination of hot chiles, fragrant Thai basil, chewy noodles, and a delicious sauce, make this my favorite Thai dish. It has much more complexity of flavor than the more familiar pad Thai. I even grow my own Thai basil, just so I can make this dish at home. If hot Thai chiles are unavailable, substituted red pepper flakes to taste.
14 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained and pressed
8 ounces rice noodles
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 or 2 hot Thai chiles, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegan oyster sauce or Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce (see Note)
1 teaspoon natural sugar
1 cup loosely packed Thai basil leaves
6 grape or cherry tomatoes, halved lengthwise
Cut the tofu into 1-inch slices and arrange on a baking sheet lined with several thicknesses of paper towels. Top the tofu with another layer of paper towels and press on the slices to expel any excess water. Cut the pressed tofu slices into 1-inch cubes and set aside.
Cook the rice noodles according to the package directions. Drain well, toss with the sesame oil, and set aside.
Heat the oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat and add onion and bell pepper, and stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes to soften the vegetables. Add the garlic, ginger, chile, soy sauce, oyster sauce, and sugar. Add the reserved tofu and stir-fry for 2 minutes, or until the tofu is golden brown. Add the reserved noodles, basil, and tomatoes and stir-fry a few minutes, long enough to heat through and coat the noodles. Serve hot.
Note: Look for Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce (the “secret” ingredient of Thai stir-fries) in Asian markets. You can certainly make a tasty Thai dish without it, but if you can find it, it will make your food aste more authentic.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
Of all the Thai curries, it is the vibrant Panang curry that gets my vote as most flavorful. Typically milder than other Thai curries (with the exception of the sweet Masaman curry), Panang curry has a more multifaceted flavor profile than green, red, or yellow Thai curries. Panang curry paste itself is a sublime blending of galangal, peanuts, lemongrass, shallots, chiles, coriander, and garlic, which is combined with coconut milk, sugar, and Thai basil leaves to make the sauce which provides a flavor and aroma that is unsurpassed.
1 or 2 dried red chiles, seeded, soaked, and drained
1 shallot, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, pressed
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
1 teaspoon minced fresh lemongrass (white part only)
1 teaspoon grated ginger or galangal
1 teaspoon Asian chili paste
1 tablespoon peanut butter
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon natural sugar
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 (13-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 red or green bell pepper, seeded and cut into thin strips
8 ounces small white mushrooms, sliced
1 (15-ounce) can young or green jackfruit in water or brine (not syrup), drained, rinsed, and roughly chopped
1 cup vegetable broth
¾ cup frozen green peas, thawed
1 cup Thai basil leaves
3 to 4 cups hot cooked jasmine rice, for serving
In a food processor, combine the chiles, shallot, garlic, lime zest, lemongrass, and ginger and process to a paste. Add the chili paste, peanut butter, soy sauce, sugar, and coriander and process until smooth. Add the coconut milk and process until smooth and creamy.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the bell pepper, mushrooms, and jackfruit and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Stir in the broth, then add the reserved sauce and bring just to a boil. Decrease the heat to a low simmer and cook for 10 minutes to blend the flavors. Stir in the peas and basil leaves and cook 5 minutes longer to heat the peas. Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Serve hot over rice.
Note: Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy-free.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
Pineapple Fried Rice with Edamame
Refreshing pineapple, protein-rich edamame, and fragrant Thai basil are the stars of this fried rice dish dotted with colorful vegetables. If you don’t want it spicy, omit the Thai chili sauce. Canned pineapple may be substituted for fresh, if necessary, and if you’re not a fan of fruit in savory dishes, just omit the pineapple entirely. Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy-free.
1½ cups fresh or frozen shelled edamame
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 teaspoons Thai chili sauce
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 carrot, coarsely shredded
1 red or green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
2 cups fresh pineapple, cut into ½-inch chunks
1 tablespoon palm sugar or light brown sugar
3 cups cold cooked brown rice
3 tablespoons fresh Thai basil leaves, mint, or cilantro
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Cook the edamame in a saucepan of boiling salted water until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.
In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, and chili sauce. Add the water, stir to mix well, and set aside.
Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the onion and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add the carrot, bell pepper, garlic, and ginger and stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the pineapple chunks and sugar and stir-fry until golden brown. Add the reserved soy sauce mixture to the skillet and stir-fry to combine. Add the cooked rice, reserved edamame, and basil, and stir-fry gently until the mixture is hot and well combined. Serve hot sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
LOW OIL
QUICK AND EASY
Inspired by the popular noodle dish pad thai (but without the egg and with a whole lot of extra flavor-makers), this recipe combines rice noodles with ginger, rice vinegar, chili sauce, soy sauce, and more. If tamarind paste is unavailable, the lime juice will help lend a refreshing tart flavor. For a more substantial dish, add diced tofu. Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy-free.
8 ounces dried rice noodles
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon sweet chili sauce
1 teaspoon hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon peanut butter
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon natural sugar
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 to 2 tablespoons tamarind paste or concentrate, or freshly squeezed lime juice
½ cup water
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 small red bell pepper, seeded and cut into thin strips
2 cups small broccoli florets
2 garlic, minced
5 scallions, sliced diagonally
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
½ cup roasted peanuts, chopped
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro or Thai basil
Cook the noodles according to the package directions. Drain and return to the pot. Toss with the sesame oil and set aside.
In a small bowl, combine the chili sauce, hoisin, peanut butter, tomato paste, cornstarch, and sugar. Stir in the soy sauce, vinegar, tamarind paste, and water. Mix well, then set aside.
Heat the grapeseed oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper and broccoli and stir-fry for 2 minutes to soften. Add the garlic, scallions, and ginger, and stir-fry for 1 minute, adding a few drops of water if needed so the vegetables do not burn.
Stir in the reserved sauce mixture, then add the reserved noodles and stir-fry until they are hot and coated with the sauce, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately topped with the peanuts and cilantro.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
These luscious rice pudding parfaits were inspired by my favorite rice dessert: the mango and sweet sticky rice of Thailand. Traditionally, this dessert is served on a plate with a scoop of coconut-infused rice surrounded by slices of mango. My version opts for a more unusual presentation, by layering the ingredients in clear glass dessert or parfait bowls or wineglasses. Verrine originally referred to a small glass container with no base that could hold a layered appetizer or dessert, which allows for a vertical and visually appealing presentation.
1 (13.5-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
½ cup natural sugar (try organic coconut sugar)
2½ cups cooked jasmine rice
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
2 to 3 ripe fresh mangos, peeled, pitted, and finely chopped
¼ cup roasted unsalted peanuts or cashews, crushed
In a large saucepan, combine the coconut milk and sugar, and bring almost to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the cooked rice, vanilla, and salt, and simmer over medium-low heat for 15 minutes, or until desired consistency is reached, stirring occasionally. Set aside to cool. Spoon a small amount of the rice into the bottom of 4 clear dessert or parfait glasses (wineglasses are good for this). Top each with a layer of chopped mango, followed by another layer of rice, until the ingredients are used up (or the glasses are nearly full). Sprinkle the tops with the crushed nuts. Refrigerate until serving time. Serve chilled.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
NO OIL
Japanese food is deliberately elegant, spare, and harmonious in appearance and flavor. Whether you’re enjoying the soothing simplicity of delicate miso soup or the artistic beauty of a vegetable sushi platter, Japanese food can be a calming refuge from the bold flavors of other cuisines.
This sublime cuisine has spawned a variety of dishes tailor-made for the vegan. Favorites include vegetable tempura, yakisoba (buckwheat noodles with stir-fried vegetables), gomai (spinach with sesame paste) served as a topping for donburi, and various preparations of the esteemed soy food family such as edamame (whole fresh soybeans in the pod), soothing and restorative miso soup, and, of course, the eminently versatile tofu, as featured in Tofu Tonkatsu. Japanese cuisine tends to be less spicy than other Asian cuisines, but with seasonings ranging from soy, sesame, and sake, it is nonetheless richly flavored.
Until recent years, Japanese ingredients were available only in Asian markets or natural food stores, but these days, everything from tofu and edamame to soba noodles and shiitake mushrooms can be found in your local supermarkets.
This wholesome and delicious vegetable soup, known as kenchinjiru, is an example of shojin ryori, or Buddhist temple food, a vegetarian diet based on the Buddhist teaching of compassion for all living creatures. Shojin ryori cooking features seasonal vegetables (except for members of the onion family), as well as tofu and other soy foods, wheat gluten, beans, sea vegetables, and nuts and fruits. This soup typically contains crumbled tofu, root vegetables, and sesame oil for a rich, satisfying flavor.
12 ounces firm tofu, drained and crumbled
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
2 medium carrots, sliced
12 ounces butternut or kabocha squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 Yukon Gold potato or sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 (6-inch) piece of daikon radish, peeled and thinly sliced
6 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
¼ cup mirin
1 cup fresh or frozen shelled edamame
6 cups water
1 piece kombu seaweed (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
8 ounces fresh spinach, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons white or chickpea miso paste
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, for garnish (black, if available)
Place the crumbled tofu in a bowl with 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and the sesame oil. Mix well, then set aside to marinate for a few minutes.
Heat the grapeseed oil in a soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the carrots, squash, and potato. Stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the daikon and mushrooms. Stir-fry for 2 minutes, then stir in the tofu mixture. Add the mirin and edamame and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the water, kombu, if using, and salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Stir in the spinach and the remaining soy sauce, along with extra water if more broth is needed. Ladle ½ cup of the broth into a small bowl, stir in the miso paste until smooth. Add the miso mixture to the soup, then taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Serve hot in large soup bowls and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
The thin white wheat noodles called somen are usually served cold. They are especially delicious in this salad combined with edamame and tofu, and crisp lettuce, carrots, and scallions, and topped with a flavorful sesame-soy dressing. If somen noodles are unavailable, substitute angel hair or vermicelli noodles, soba noodles, or thin rice noodles.
8 ounces somen noodles
8 ounces baked marinated tofu, cut into thin strips
3 cups shredded romaine lettuce
1 large carrot, coarsely shredded
1 cup cooked shelled edamame
3 scallions, minced
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon mirin
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook the somen noodles according to the package directions. Drain, rinse in cold water, then drain again.
Transfer the noodles to a shallow serving bowl. Arrange the tofu, lettuce, carrot, and edamame on top of the noodles. Sprinkle with scallions and sesame seeds. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or until ready to serve.
In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, mirin, sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Just before serving, drizzle the dressing over the salad. Serve chilled.
Serves 4
LOW OIL
QUICK AND EASY
Classic unagi kabayaki is a Japanese dish made of broiled or grilled eel glazed with a sweet soy-based sauce. This plant-based version uses eggplant instead of eel on which to douse the luscious kabayaki sauce. The texture of the eggplant and its ability to absorb the sauce make it an ideal substitute for the eel. Instead of eggplant, you can substitute sliced portobello mushrooms or seitan. In this recipe, the eggplant is partially cooked before glazing with the sauce to prevent the sauce from burning. Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy free.
3 small Japanese eggplants, cut into ¼-inch slices (about 2 pounds)
½ cup soy sauce
1⁄3 cup sake or mirin (sweet rice wine)
3 tablespoons agave nectar or sugar
3 cups hot cooked rice
Toasted sesame seeds or sansho (Japanese pepper), for garnish
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Arrange the eggplant slices on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Roast the eggplant until just softened, turning once, about 10 minutes total. Remove from the oven and set aside.
In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce, sake, and agave nectar. Cook, stirring, over medium heat to allow the flavors to blend, about 5 minutes. Preheat the grill or broiler.
Spoon or brush the sauce over the eggplant and grill or broil until hot and nicely glazed, turning and adding more sauce as needed. Serve over the rice and top with any remaining sauce. Garnish with sesame seeds or sansho.
Makes 4 servings
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
NO OIL
QUICK AND EASY
I’ve been a fan of donburi since I first tasted it when a friend brought me to a small Japanese restaurant in New York City. The restaurant, more of a lunchroom, had no sign and was on the second floor above some shops. The room contained several long tables that were filled with Japanese people enjoying their lunch: the rice bowl dish known as donburi. A kind of Japanese fast food, traditional donburi is boiled rice topped with fish, meat, eggs, or vegetables simmered in a dashi broth made with soy sauce and mirin.
¾ cup unsweetened coconut milk
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil or ¼ cup water
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
8 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
10 ounces fresh spinach, well washed and coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
8 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained and crumbled
3 scallions, minced
3 cups cooked brown rice
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
In a small bowl, combine the coconut milk, 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce, and tahini, stirring until blended. Set aside.
Heat the oil or water in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and ginger, and cook for 30 seconds. Add the spinach and stir-fry until wilted, about 2 minutes. Stir in the reserved coconut milk, soy sauce, and tahini mixture, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer, stirring frequently, until hot and creamy, 5 minutes.
Heat the sesame oil in a large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add the tofu, scallions, and the remaining tablespoon of soy sauce and cook, stirring to coat. Add the cooked rice and sesame seeds, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss to combine and heat through. Spoon the rice mixture among individual bowls, top each with the spinach mixture and serve hot.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
The popular Japanese fried noodle dish yakisoba has its roots in China and is similar to lo mein. There are countless variations on yakisoba, but all contain noodles and vegetables, and usually some protein. The dish is always fried in a pan and finished with a somewhat sweet sauce that is put together quickly from condiments. Interestingly, yakisoba isn’t traditionally made with soba noodles (although they do work well in this dish). The classic noodle used is called chukamen, but it is made with eggs. I usually use linguine or, oddly enough, soba noodles. Sometimes I use ramen noodles, which are similar to chukamen.
12 ounces linguine or soba noodles
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
8 ounces baked marinated tofu, cut into matchstick julienne
4 cups shredded napa cabbage
2 carrots, coarsely shredded
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegan oyster sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
½ teaspoon sriracha sauce
1 bunch scallions, minced
½ teaspoon natural sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook the noodles in a pot of boiling water according to the package directions. Drain and rinse under cold water, then return to the pot. Drizzle with sesame oil and toss to coat. Set aside.
In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, mirin, oyster sauce, sugar, and sriracha.
Heat the grapeseed oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the cabbage and carrots and stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes to soften. Add the tofu, noodles, scallions, and sauce mixture. Continue to stir-fry to heat through and coat the noodles and vegetables with the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding a little salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.
Note: Use gluten-free noodles to make this gluten-free.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
The name tonkatsu means “pork cutlets,” but this tasty dish is fabulous made with tofu, coated with panko and topped with the traditional zesty sauce. It’s especially good paired with this crunchy slaw, as is traditional.
Sauce
½ cup ketchup
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons agave nectar
2 tablespoons vegan Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon unsweetened applesauce (optional)
2 teaspoons spicy brown mustard
Slaw
6 cups shredded cabbage (1 small head)
1 large carrot, coarsely shredded
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 teaspoons agave nectar
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Tofu
12 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained, pressed, and cut into ½-inch slices, then cut each slice in half, lengthwise
½ cup plain unsweetened almond milk
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup panko bread crumbs
Grapeseed oil or other neutral oil, for frying
To make the sauce, combine the ketchup, soy sauce, agave, Worcestershire sauce, applesauce (if using), and mustard in a bowl. Stir to mix well. Set aside.
To make the slaw, combine the cabbage, carrot, vinegar, agave, ginger, and sesame oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss to combine well. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
To prepare the tofu, place the almond milk, flour, and panko crumbs in three separate shallow bowls. Dip the tofu into the almond milk, then dredge them in the flour and then back into the almond milk, followed by dredging in the panko crumbs. Repeat with the remaining tofu until all the pieces are coated.
Heat a thin layer of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the tofu to the skillet, in batches if needed. Cook until golden brown, turning once, about 4 minutes per side. Do not overcrowd. Keep warm in a low oven until all the tofu is cooked. Arrange a bed of slaw on four plates and top with the tofu, dividing evenly. Spoon the sauce over the tofu and serve.
Serves 4
The Japanese confections known as daifuku mochi are small, smooth rice cakes or balls stuffed with a sweet filling. Mochi are made with mochiko, a flour made from ground sweet glutinous rice called mochigome. For daifuku mochi, the rice is pounded into paste, stuffed with a filling (usually sweet red bean paste), and molded into various shapes. They are often coated in a fine layer of cornstarch, potato starch, or confectioners’ sugar to keep them from sticking. These treats are eaten year-round, but are also a traditional food for the Japanese New Year.
1¼ cups glutinous rice flour (mochiko) (see headnote)
1⁄3 cup sugar
Pinch of salt
1¼ cups almond milk
1⁄3 cup sesame paste
1⁄3 cup cooked white beans
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
Coconut flour or finely ground unsweetened coconut, for dusting
In a heatproof bowl, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Stir in the almond milk and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave for 5 minutes, then uncover and set aside to cool for 5 minutes. Cut into twelve pieces.
In a food processor, combine the sesame paste, white beans, confectioners’ sugar, and sesame seeds and mix well. Set aside.
Dust your hands with the coconut flour, then flatten each piece of mochi into a small disk. Place 1½ teaspoons of the sesame mixture in the center of each piece of mochi. Pinch closed to seal, then lightly roll it into a ball, using both palms. Repeat with the remaining mochi and filling.
Pour about ½ cup of coconut flour into a shallow bowl. Roll the balls in the coconut flour to keep the mochi from sticking. Transfer to a plate and serve. Mochi will keep for up to 2 days at room temperature. If not using right away, they will keep in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. Do not refrigerate, or they will become hard.
Note: Glutinous rice flour, also called mochiko, is available at Asian markets or online.
Makes 12 mochi
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
NO OIL
One of the spiciest cuisines of Asia, Korean cooking has been influenced by the cuisine of China, although it is generally spicier due to the prevalence of hot red chiles, black pepper, garlic, and spicy red chili paste (kochujang) in many of the dishes. Other seasonings common to Korean cuisine are soy sauce, green onions, ginger, sesame oil, sesame seed, and a bean paste, called dhwen-jang, which is similar to Japanese miso. Vegetables are categorized by their cooking method, which include salads (muchim), cooked vegetable dishes (namul), braised or simmered vegetables (chorim), and fermented vegetables (kimchi).
Thanks to a Korean neighbor, I’ve received some helpful cooking tips and enjoyed many stellar home-cooked Korean meals, all the while making mental notes to enable me to re-create the dishes at home. A typical Korean meal includes rice, soup, vegetables, a main dish, and, of course, the ubiquitous fermented vegetable mixture known as kimchi. In general, Koreans eat more vegetables than meat with their rice, and the vegetable dishes are varied and plentiful. Rice is served at every meal, sometimes in combination with barley and adzuki beans or bean curd, or tofu, which they call tubu. Many traditional Korean recipes combine a variety of textures and a balance of spicy, bitter, hot, cool, and sweet flavors—all in the same dish, such as Bibimbap or Easy Chapchae. Ingredients in a Korean meal are often chosen to include five colors—green, white, yellow, red, and black.
This crunchy salad makes a refreshing accompaniment to a Korean meal. It is especially popular in Korea during the summer. This recipe calls for English cucumber, since it’s readily available, but the small Korean cucumbers would be traditional, if you can find them. I usually just add a pinch of red pepper flakes (or none at all) since the rest of the meal is typically quite spicy-hot, but if you want extra heat, just add more red pepper flakes.
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon minced garlic
½ teaspoon sugar
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
1⁄8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
1 English cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced
3 minced scallions
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
In a small bowl combine the vinegar, oil, ginger, garlic, sugar, salt, and red pepper flakes, if using. Mix well. Place the cucumber slices and scallions in a bowl. Add the dressing and toss lightly to combine. Spoon the salad into small individual bowls and sprinkle with the sesame seeds.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
Korean pancakes, or jeon, are enjoyed at all meals of the day as a side dish or appetizer, as well as a snack served with drinks. Jeon can be made with a variety of different fillings, including different types of meat and seafood as well as vegetables. Among the most popular jeon are pajeon, made with green onions and kimchijeon, made with kimchi. This recipe makes four to five large pancakes, but you could use the batter to make several smaller pancakes, if you prefer. Use the kimchi recipe or, to save time, you can buy prepared kimchi at an Asian market. Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy free.
Dipping Sauce
1 hot green chile, minced
1 scallion, minced
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons sake or mirin
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
Pancakes
½ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup rice flour
¼ cup tapioca flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sesame seeds
1 cup water
1½ cups finely chopped kimchi (recipe follows), or store-bought
2 tablespoons minced scallions
Grapeseed oil or other neutral oil, for frying
To make the dipping sauce, combine the chile, scallion, sesame seeds, sugar, red pepper flakes, soy sauce, vinegar, water, sake, and sesame oil in a small bowl and mix well. Set aside. Preheat the oven to 250°F.
To make the pancakes, combine the flours, salt, and sesame seeds in a medium bowl. Stir in the water and mix until blended. Stir in the kimchi and scallions and mix well.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the grapeseed oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Ladle about ½ cup of the batter into the hot skillet, spreading to form a thin pancake. Cook until firm and nicely browned, about 4 minutes. Flip the pancake to cook the other side for 2 to 3 minutes or until browned. Slide the pancake onto a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while you cook the remaining pancakes, adding more oil to the pan as needed. Serve hot with the sauce on the side.
Serves 4
SOY-FREE OPTION
If you go to an Asian market to buy kimchi, the fermented vegetable side dish, be ready for a lot of choices. In addition to several prepared varieties sold in jars, vendors often sell their own homemade kimchi from large tubs, each batch as unique as the cook who made it. Cabbage dominates in the most familiar versions, but other ingredients such as daikon radish, carrots, and other vegetables may be included as well, with varying degrees of spiciness. With all those choices, it may be easier to make your own.
5 cups coarsely chopped napa cabbage
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
½ cup chopped scallions
2 teaspoons salt
4 cups water
3 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon cayenne or 2 tablespoons kochijan paste combined with 1 tablespoon hot water
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, carrot, and scallions. Add the salt and water. Place a plate inside the bowl to hold the vegetables under water. Cover and set aside for 4 hours.
Drain well and discard the salt water. Rinse the vegetables well and drain again, squeezing out any remaining liquid.
In a small bowl, combine the garlic, ginger, cayenne mixture, vinegar, and pepper. Mix well. Add to the reserved vegetables and mix well to coat.
Cover tightly and set aside on the kitchen counter to ferment overnight. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator where it will continue to ferment at a slower rate. Properly stored, the kimchi will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Makes about 4 cups kimchi
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
NO OIL
Also spelled japchae, chapchae combines cellophane noodles (made from sweet potato starch or mung bean) seasoned with garlic, soy sauce, and sesame oil with a variety of vegetables. In addition to (or instead of) the shiitake mushrooms, spinach, and red bell pepper used here, you can add broccoli, asparagus, or carrots. Another popular addition is bulgogi, so if you have any leftover seitan bulgogi in the fridge, this is a delicious way to use it up. Just replace the tofu with the bulgogi.
1 (8-ounce) package cellophane noodles
2 tablespoons dark sesame oil
5 tablespoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon natural sugar
14 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained, pressed, and cut into small dice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium yellow onion, halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into thin strips
2 cups sliced shiitake mushrooms
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
8 cups baby spinach
2 teaspoons sesame seeds
Prepare the noodles according to the package directions. Drain well and transfer to a large bowl. Drizzle 2 teaspoons of the sesame oil on the noodles and toss to coat. Add 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce and the sugar and toss to combine. Set aside.
In a separate bowl, combine the tofu with 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce, 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to marinate for 20 minutes.
In large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of sesame oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the bell pepper and mushrooms and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and the vinegar, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the reserved tofu and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Stir in the noodle mixture, then add the spinach, cover, and cook for 3 minutes or until the spinach is wilted. Season to taste with salt and pepper and toss to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding a little more sugar or soy sauce to taste, if needed, and stir-fry until well mixed. Serve hot topped with sesame seeds.
Serves 4 to 6
GLUTEN-FREE
Bulgogi is a popular Korean dish that is traditionally made with thinly sliced beef. I make it with seitan that has a smoky sweet flavor and is delicious served over rice. It can also be used to make Korean “sushi” rolls (kimbap) or stir-fried noodles (chapchae). Bulgogi is frequently served in lettuce leaves to make lettuce cups and accompanied with spicy red chili paste (kochujang). Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy-free.
1⁄3 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 scallions, thinly sliced diagonally
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 pound seitan, very thinly sliced
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Kochujang paste (Korean chili paste), for serving
In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, vinegar, red pepper flakes, and black pepper. Stir to mix well. Add the scallions, garlic, ginger, and seitan and mix well to coat the seitan. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes or cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Heat the oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add a single layer of seitan and cook until browned on both sides, turning once, about 3 minutes per side. Repeat with the remaining seitan. Serve hot sprinkled with sesame seeds and a small bowl of kochujang if desired.
Serves 4
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
Bibimbap, literally “stirred or mixed rice,” features a variety of vegetables and is flavored with the spicy Korean chili paste known as kochujang. This dish is typically made with white sticky rice, but I prefer to use brown rice because it is more nutritious. Bibimbap is frequently served topped with a fried egg, which is obviously omitted from this vegan version. Swapping coconut aminos for the soy sauce will make this recipe soy free.
3 tablespoons kochujang paste (Korean chili paste)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon agave nectar
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into matchsticks
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 cups shredded green cabbage
1 carrot, coarsely shredded
1 cup thinly sliced white or shiitake mushrooms
3 cups cooked brown rice
½ English cucumber, peeled and cut into matchsticks
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
In a bowl, combine the kochujang paste, soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, and agave. Stir to mix well. Set aside.
Heat the grapeseed oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and garlic and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the cabbage and carrots and stir-fry for 2 minutes longer. Stir in the mushrooms and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the reserved sauce and cook, stirring to coat. Add the cooked rice and cook, stirring, until well mixed and heated through. To serve, spoon the rice and vegetable mixture into bowls and top with cucumber and sesame seeds. Serve extra kuchujang sauce and soy sauce on the side.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
When my Korean neighbor, Sung Hee, first served us this unusual dessert, called goguma mattang, we were surprised at the idea of sweet potatoes for dessert. But after one taste, we were hooked. Made with Korean or Japanese sweet potatoes, it tastes the best when served while still warm.
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
5 to 6 Korean sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice (about 3 cups) (see Note)
¼ cup natural sugar
3 tablespoons agave nectar
3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the diced sweet potatoes. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to a serving bowl.
In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the sugar, agave, and water, stirring to mix. When the syrup begins to bubble, decrease the heat to low and cook for another 2 minutes to thicken slightly. Add the hot syrup to the cooked potatoes and toss gently to combine. Serve immediately, sprinkled with the sesame seeds.
Note: Korean sweet potatoes (goguma) are sweeter and drier in texture than American sweet potatoes. They have a deep purple skin and a pale yellow interior that turns brighter yellow when cooked. Their texture and flavor reminds me a bit of chestnuts, only sweeter. Look for them at Asian markets. If unavailable you can substitute 2 or 3 American sweet potatoes, although the flavor will be somewhat different.
Serves 4 to 6
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
LOW OIL
I like to explain my love of Vietnamese cuisine by comparison: Thai food excites my senses, while Japanese cuisine has a calming effect. Chinese dishes offer comfort and familiarity, but for me, Vietnamese food has an uncanny ability to do it all. While there are elements of other cuisines apparent in Vietnamese food, the end result is a unique cuisine with its own distinct qualities. The curries of Vietnam, for example, are nothing like the heady curries of India or the fiery Thai curries, yet they command attention.
Vietnamese cuisine differs from Chinese by, among other ways, the addition of tropical ingredients such as lemongrass and citrus fruits, which are indigenous, in recipes such as Lemongrass Asparagus and Edamame Stir-Fry and Vietnamese Noodle Salad. Vietnamese cooking is, perhaps, most similar to Thai and although some dishes can be spicy, the food is not dominated by hot seasonings. The hottest dishes are found in the southern part of the country, where there is a more liberal use of chiles than in the north.
“Fresh” and “healthy” are common descriptors of Vietnamese food, owing to a liberal use of raw vegetables such as cucumbers, carrots, and lettuce; bean sprouts; fresh herbs, such as cilantro; and seasonings such as lime juice and chiles. Such ingredients are often served alongside many soup and noodle dishes for you to add as desired, as in Pho Chay.
Inspired by the flavors of the bánh mì sandwich, these spring rolls, called Banh Mi Goi Cuon, give you the same filling ingredients but without the baguette. Wrapped in rice paper and dipped in a savory hoisin-peanut sauce, these refreshing spring rolls are a great way to enjoy a light and gluten-free interpretation of bánh mì.
¼ cup vegan mayonnaise
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sriracha sauce
8 sheets rice paper wrappers
1½ cups fresh cilantro, mint, or Thai basil leaves
8 ounces baked extra-firm tofu, cut into thin strips
1 large carrot, coarsely shredded
½ English cucumber, peeled and cut into thin strips
¼ cup chopped pickled jalapeños
Hoisin-Peanut Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)
In a bowl, combine the mayonnaise, hoisin, soy sauce, and sriracha, stirring to blend. Set aside.
Pour warm water into a wide shallow bowl or pan and set a clean dish towel next to it. Dip a rice paper wrapper into the water for a few seconds to soften, then remove it from the water and place it on the towel.
Transfer the softened rice paper to a flat work surface. Arrange a row of cilantro leaves on the rice paper, near the end closest to you. On top of the cilantro, arrange a row of tofu strips, drizzle with the reserved sauce mixture, then top with shredded carrot, cucumber strips, and sprinkle with jalapeños. Do not overfill. Fold the edge of the rice paper closest to you over the filling, then fold the sides over and roll it up, away from you, to form a neat roll. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Serve with the dipping sauce.
Makes 8 rolls
GLUTEN-FREE
NO OIL
This sauce is absolutely dreamy with spring rolls, but it’s also great with chunks of baked tofu or even steamed or roasted vegetables such as asparagus and broccoli.
½ cup hoisin sauce
¼ cup peanut butter
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sriracha sauce
Combine the hoisin, peanut butter, vinegar, soy sauce, and sriracha in a small bowl and stir to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Add a little water if a thinner sauce is desired. Serve as a dipping sauce for the spring rolls. If not using right away, cover tightly and refrigerate. Properly stored, the sauce will keep for a week or longer. The recipe is easily doubled.
Makes about 1 cup sauce
GLUTEN-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
NO OIL
Pho (pronounce fuh) is a rich Vietnamese noodle soup usually made with beef. The meatless version is called pho chay. A popular street food in Vietnam, pho is traditionally eaten for breakfast in the southern part of the country, but is also enjoyed at other times of day in the north. I like to enrich this hearty soup with dark miso paste and strips of seitan, although you can leave out the seitan (or add tofu) and still have a delicious soup. Chewy rice stick noodles are traditionally used in this soup, but I’ve also made it with linguine and ramen noodles, depending on what’s on hand.
8 ounces dried rice noodles
6 cups vegetable broth or water
3 shallots or 1 small yellow onion, chopped
1 cup thinly sliced shiitake mushroom caps
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1⁄3 cup hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
8 ounces seitan, drained and cut into strips
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons dark miso paste
1 teaspoon sriracha sauce
1 cup fresh bean sprouts, blanched
4 scallions, thinly sliced
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
Lime wedges, for serving
Cook the noodles according to the package directions. Drain and set aside.
Bring the broth to a boil in a large pot. Add the shallots, mushrooms, ginger, hoisin sauce, and soy sauce. Decrease the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the seitan and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Stir the lime juice into the broth. Remove ½ cup of the hot liquid to a small bowl. Add the miso paste to the liquid in the bowl and stir to blend well. Transfer the blended miso paste into the soup along with the sriracha. Do not boil. Stir in the reserved seitan and noodles.
Divide the soup among individual bowls. Top with the bean sprouts, scallions, and cilantro. Serve at once with the lime wedges and additional sriracha to add at the table.
Serves 4
LOW OIL
QUICK AND EASY
Known as banh xeo in Vietnamese (literally “sizzling cake”), these lacy yellow crepes, made with rice flour, coconut milk, and turmeric for color, are traditionally filled with pork or shrimp. They have a crisp and delicate texture and a flavor that is simply delicious. My version uses tofu and mushrooms and is served with soy sauce for dipping.
Batter
2 cups rice flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1½ cups water
¾ cup canned coconut milk
Filling
Grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 small yellow onion, very thinly sliced
3 scallions, thinly sliced diagonally
1 cup thinly sliced white or shiitake mushrooms
8 ounces baked tofu, homemade or store-bought, finely chopped
1½ cups fresh bean sprouts, trimmed
1⁄3 cup Thai basil, cilantro, or mint leaves
¼ teaspoon salt
1 to 2 medium long red chiles, sliced thinly into rings, about 1/8 inch thick
Soy sauce, for serving
In a large bowl, whisk together the rice flour, salt, and turmeric. Add the water and coconut milk and whisk until the mixture is smooth. Let the batter rest for 30 minutes.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add one-fourth of the onion, scallions, and mushrooms. Stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes, then add one-fourth of the tofu and stir-fry a minute longer. Ladle ½ cup of the reserved batter into the pan, swirling to spread evenly. Add one-fourth of the bean sprouts and basil onto one side of the crepe and lower the heat to medium. Cover the skillet and cook for 1 minute. Uncover and continue to cook until the edges begin to brown, about 2 minutes longer. Loosen the crepe from the bottom of the pan with a spatula. When the bottom turns light brown and crispy, fold the crepe in half to enclose the bean sprouts. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make 4 crepes. Serve sprinkled with basil, cilantro, or mint and accompanied by soy sauce for dipping.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
This southern Vietnamese noodle salad known as bun bo xao, contains many of the elements I like most about Vietnamese cooking: fragrant herbs and seasonings, chewy noodles (bun), and crisp vegetables. Traditionally, this dish also features stir-fried (xao) beef (bo), but this version calls for your choice of seitan or tofu to boost the protein. Serve chilled or at room temperature with sriracha and nuoc cham on the table for people to add as desired.
8 ounces rice vermicelli
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
2 shallots, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoon minced lemongrass
8 ounces seitan, cut into thin strips or extra-firm tofu, drained, pressed, and cut into ½-inch dice
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice or rice vinegar
1 large carrot, coarsely shredded
1 English cucumber, peeled and chopped
2 cups shredded romaine lettuce
1 cup fresh bean sprouts, trimmed and blanched
1 cup crushed unsalted roasted peanuts
½ cup minced scallions
1 cup fresh cilantro or Thai basil leaves, torn if large
½ cup fresh mint leaves, torn if large
Sriracha sauce, for serving
Fish-Free Sauce (Nuoc Cham, recipe follows), for serving
Cook the rice noodles according to the package directions. Drain well, then transfer to a large bowl, drizzle with the sesame oil, and toss to coat. Set aside.
Heat the grapeseed oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic, and cook for 1 minute. Add the lemongrass and stir-fry for 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the seitan and stir-fry to brown nicely. Sprinkle on the sugar, soy sauce, and lime juice and stir-fry for 1 minute to coat well. Remove from the heat and set it aside.
Divide the reserved noodles on four plates or shallow bowls. Arrange the seitan on top of the noodles, dividing evenly. Pour any remaining liquid from the pan over the noodles. Next to the seitan, arrange mounds of carrot, cucumber, lettuce, and bean sprouts. Sprinkle all over with peanuts, scallions, cilantro, and mint. Serve chilled or at room temperature, with sriracha and nuoc cham to add at the table.
Serves 4
QUICK AND EASY
Fish sauce, known as nuoc cham in Vietnam, is used as an all-purpose seasoning in Vietnamese cuisine to add a rich depth of savory flavor to dishes. This vegan version made with dried seaweed, mushrooms, and soy sauce creates a similarly complex umami flavor without using fish.
¼ cup dried shiitake mushrooms
¼ cup chopped dried seaweed (kombu or wakame are good choices)
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon sugar
1⁄3 cup soy sauce
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 cups water
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
In a saucepan, combine the mushrooms, seaweed, garlic, sugar, soy sauce, peppercorns, salt, red pepper flakes, and water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture and return the liquid back to the pot. Add the vinegar and bring the liquid back to a boil. Cook until the sauce is reduced by half. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely. Pour the sauce into a jar with a tight-fitting lid and store in the refrigerator where it will keep for a month.
Makes about 1¼ cups sauce
GLUTEN-FREE
NO OIL
QUICK AND EASY
Lemongrass Asparagus and Edamame Stir-Fry
This dish is filled with the fresh fragrant flavors of lemongrass and cilantro, and loaded with edamame, asparagus, carrots, cashews, and other goodies. It’s seasoned with a luscious sauce made with vegan oyster sauce, rice vinegar, and sambal oelek, a paste of ground hot chiles. Even though it’s a long list of ingredients, it goes together quickly—the hardest thing about this stir-fry is not eating the whole thing yourself in one sitting.
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons vegan oyster sauce (see Note)
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sambal oelek (ground fresh chili paste)
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon natural sugar
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or other neutral oil
1 medium yellow onion, halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 fresh lemongrass stalks, tender inner white bulb only, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
12 ounces thin asparagus, trimmed, and cut diagonally into 1½-inch pieces
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into julienne strips
1 cup steamed fresh or frozen shelled edamame
2 medium-size carrots, coarsely shredded
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro or basil
¼ cup toasted cashews
3 to 4 cups freshly cooked long-grain rice, for serving
In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, water, oyster sauce, vinegar, sambal oelek, coriander, and sugar. Stir to mix well. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large wok or large skillet over high heat. Add the onion, garlic, lemongrass, and ginger, and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the asparagus, bell pepper, edamame, and carrots. Stir-fry for 3 minutes, then stir in the reserved sauce and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 3 minutes to reduce the sauce a little. Stir in the cilantro and cashews. Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Serve hot with rice.
Note: Vegan oyster sauce is sold at Asian markets—it is labeled as “vegetarian” oyster sauce. If unavailable, look for mushroom soy sauce. If you can’t find either, you can omit it and just add a little extra of your regular soy sauce, as needed.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
LOW OIL
QUICK AND EASY
Corn Pudding with Coconut Sauce
It may seem odd to serve a corn pudding for dessert, but one taste will convince you that it’s actually a pretty good idea. This flavorful pudding topped with a coconut sauce is called chè bắp. If you have coconut sugar on hand, it’s a great choice for this recipe.
2 tablespoons small tapioca pearls
1½ cups fresh or frozen corn kernels, thawed
6 tablespoons natural sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 (13-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 teaspoons cornstarch blended with ¼ cup water
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
Soak the tapioca in a bowl of warm water for 30 minutes. Set aside.
In a saucepan, combine the corn kernels, 4 tablespoons of the sugar, 1⁄8 teaspoon of the salt, and all but ½ cup of the coconut milk. Stir to combine. Bring just to a boil, then decrease the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more sugar or salt, if needed.
Drain the soaked tapioca pearls, then stir them into the corn mixture and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes or until the tapioca is soft and translucent and the pudding is thickened. Stir in the vanilla. Remove from the heat to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for 30 minutes or longer to chill.
While the pudding is chilling, make the coconut sauce. In a small saucepan, combine the remaining ½ cup of coconut milk with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and 1⁄8 teaspoon of salt and bring almost to a boil. Decrease the heat to medium-low and stir in the cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly to thicken. When the sauce thickens, remove the saucepan from the heat.
To serve, top each serving of pudding with a couple of tablespoons of the coconut sauce and garnish with the sesame seeds.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
NO OIL
The cuisines of the island nations of Southeast Asia—particularly Malaysia, Indonesia, and Singapore—have always intrigued me, not just for their delicious flavors but also because the food in these nations are true melting pots of cuisines. Malay food, for example, is a delectable amalgam of the culinary traditions of China and India, Indonesia, Thailand, and its own indigenous roots. It is this combined cultural influence that makes Malaysian food so delicious. In Malaysia you’ll find noodle and rice dishes reminiscent of China, fragrant Indian-inspired curries and dosas, and the sweet and pungent flavors of Southeast Asia, with an abundant use of tropical fruits, herbs, tamarind, and most notably hot chiles and coconut. For all of its cultural influences, the cuisine of Malaysia has managed to produce a number of distinctly Malaysian dishes. Many Malay dishes feature a rempeh, a spice and herb paste that is sautéed in oil to deepen the flavors, while the national dish of Malaysia is nasi lemak, or “creamy rice,” a fragrant rice dish cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaves. Vegan-friendly Malaysian specialty dishes include rasam, a lentil soup made with coriander and cumin, mee rebus, a noodle dish served with a tangy, spicy and sweet potato–based sauce, fried yam cakes, radish cakes, and spring roll–style crepes stuffed with tofu and vegetables.
Not to be outdone are Indonesia and Singapore, also pastiche cultures out of which come distinctly fascinating cuisines. Once known as the “Spice Islands,” it is not surprising that Indonesians favor cooking with the many indigenous aromatics, such as ginger, garlic, coriander, lemongrass, chiles, and coconut. Though the culture and cuisine throughout the islands are diverse, the most popular meals consist of rice served with several savory side dishes and accompanied by a popular, often spicy condiment, called a sambal, made with chiles and other ingredients.
While Indonesian cuisine has been influenced by China, the local herbs, spices, and produce, such as lemongrass, coriander, and coconut, lend their distinctive characteristics, as evidenced in Lemongrass Coconut Rice. Chiles are often paired with these ingredients as well as ginger and garlic to flavor many of the dishes. Tempeh, a plant-based protein made from compressed soybeans, originated in Indonesia, where it is often prepared in coconut milk.
Singapore is home to several kinds of laksa, a spicy noodle soup that is also popular throughout Malaysia. The most popular type of laksa features curry and a coconut milk base, with thick noodles. Another type, called asam, is a sour fish-based soup. There are many variations of both, some using thin noodles, fish, bean sprouts, herbs, and even pineapple. In this version, I include some of my favorite elements, such as cilantro, pineapple, and coconut milk, for a luscious soup that is both refreshing and satisfying.
8 ounces dried rice noodles
1 cup coarsely chopped shallots or yellow onion
2 dried red chiles, softened in hot water
1 stalk lemongrass, white part only, crushed
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons curry powder
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon cayenne
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
5 cups vegetable broth
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 (14-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
8 ounces extra-firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes
1 cup fresh bean sprouts, blanched
3 scallions, sliced
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
1 cup chopped pineapple (optional)
Lime wedges, for serving
Asian chili paste (sambal), for serving
Soak the rice noodles in a bowl of hot, not boiling, water and set aside.
In a food processor, combine the shallots, chiles, lemongrass, ginger, coriander, curry powder, paprika, turmeric, and cayenne and process until blended to a paste.
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the shallot mixture and cook, stirring for 3 minutes, adding a small amount of the broth to prevent burning. Add the remaining broth and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and add the sugar, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 20 minutes, then strain through a sieve or colander and return the liquid to the pot. Stir in the coconut milk and heat until hot; do not boil. Add the rice noodles and tofu and simmer for another 10 minutes. To serve, divide the bean sprouts and scallions among four soup bowls and ladle the soup into the bowls. Garnish with the cucumber, cilantro, and pineapple, if using. Serve with lime wedges and sambal.
Note: Since most of us don’t keep handy a stockpile of fresh laksa leaves and candlenuts traditionally found in this spicy soup, the recipe calls for readily available ingredients. This soup is pretty spicy, especially depending on the heat of your chiles, so if you prefer it milder, use less cayenne (or leave it out) and/or cut back on the chiles.
Serves 4 to 6
GLUTEN-FREE
Mei fun noodles are thin Chinese rice noodles (also called rice vermicelli) that are extremely popular in Singapore. Basic mei fun is somewhat bland, usually stir-fried with shiitake mushrooms, soy sauce, and a few other ingredients, with additional condiments served on the side. Singapore mei fun, on the other hand, is distinctive for its addition of curry powder. It usually features a number of vegetables, and shrimp, meat, or tofu (or a combination). My version calls for tofu, but you can substitute seitan, tempeh, or even jackfruit.
8 ounces rice vermicelli (mei fun)
4 teaspoons grapeseed oil
8 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained, pressed, and cut into ½-inch dice
¼ cup soy sauce
1 to 2 tablespoons good-quality Madras curry powder (mild or hot)
1 medium-size yellow onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into thin matchstick strips
1 carrot, coarsely shredded
2 ounces snow peas, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 cup vegetable broth
2 cups small broccoli florets, steamed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Soak the rice noodles according to the package directions until softened. Drain well and set aside.
Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the tofu and stir-fry until nicely browned, adding 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce and a sprinkling of curry powder while cooking. Remove from the skillet and set aside on a plate.
Reheat the skillet with the remaining 2 teaspoons of oil. Add the onion, bell pepper, carrot, and snow peas, and stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes to soften. Stir in the remaining curry powder and stir-fry for 10 seconds, or until fragrant.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, along with the sugar, salt, and red pepper flakes, stirring to mix well. Stir in the broth and bring to a boil over high heat.
Add the drained rice noodles and return to a boil, stirring to coat the noodles in the sauce. Add the steamed broccoli and reserved tofu, and cook, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes, or until the liquid has been absorbed by the noodles. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Serve hot sprinkled with the cilantro.
Note: If rice vermicelli noodles are unavailable, you can make this with angel hair pasta instead (cooked al dente before adding to the skillet). Feel free to change up the vegetables used (zucchini instead of broccoli, or green peas instead of snow peas, for example). Adjust the seasoning to your taste, by adding more red pepper flakes or more curry powder for more heat.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
The Malaysian spice and herb paste known as rempeh is sautéed in oil to deepen the flavors. Rempeh is a delicious way to prepare tempeh or tofu, as well as vegetables such as eggplant. Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy free.
3 fresh hot red chiles, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 shallots, coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 to 3 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoons tomato ketchup or chili sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
½ teaspoon sugar
1 pound Japanese eggplants, ends trimmed, halved lengthwise
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
½ cup chopped fresh basil leaves
3 to 4 cups freshly cooked brown rice, for serving
In a food processor, combine the chiles, shallots, garlic, and ginger and process to a paste. Set aside. In a small bowl combine the ketchup, soy sauce, lime juice, and sugar and stir to mix well. Set aside.
Cut the eggplant halves crosswise into thirds. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant pieces and cook until browned on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Add the reserved chile paste mixture to the eggplant and cook until fragrant.
Stir in the reserved sauce mixture and continue cooking until the eggplant is tender and the sauce has thickened. If the sauce becomes too dry, add a tablespoon or two of water. When ready to serve, stir in the basil. Serve hot over rice.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
Fruit and vegetable salad enjoyed throughout Malaysia, Indonesia, and Singapore are often referred to as rojak, the Malaysian word for “mixture.” There are numerous variations throughout the region, and this one is similar to those made in Indonesia. I like to serve it with Eggplant Rempeh. Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy free.
1 English cucumber, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
½ small pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch dice
3 scallions, minced
Freshly squeezed juice of 2 limes
½ to 1 teaspoon sambal oelek or 1 fresh hot red chile, seeded and pounded to a paste
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
¼ teaspoon salt
In a bowl, combine the cucumber, pineapple, and scallions. Set aside.
In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, sambal oelek, sugar, soy sauce, and salt. Stir to mix well. When ready to serve, pour the dressing over the salad and mix well to combine.
Serves 4 to 6
GLUTEN-FREE
LOW OIL
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
Fragrant jasmine rice gets even more fragrant when prepared with lemongrass, lime juice, garlic, scallions, and coconut. This delicious side dish can be served with any Southeast Asian dish, including curries and stir-fries. Use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce to make this soy free.
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or coconut oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 (2-inch) piece lemongrass (tender white end), finely sliced
1¾ cups jasmine rice
2 (13-ounce) cans unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup vegetable broth, plus more as needed
2 tablespoons shredded unsweetened coconut
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
Salt
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice
2 scallions, finely minced
Heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and lemongrass and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Stir in the rice, coconut milk, broth, shredded coconut, soy sauce, tumeric, and salt to taste. Bring just to a boil, stirring occasionally to keep the rice from sticking. Decrease the heat to low, cover the pot tightly with a lid, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the liquid has been absorbed. Turn off the heat, but leave the covered pot on the burner to steam for another 5 to 10 minutes. Just before serving, add the lime juice and use a fork to fluff the rice. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. Serve hot sprinkled with the scallions.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE OPTION
QUICK AND EASY
Popular throughout Southeast Asia where fried bananas are called goreng pisang, this version features shredded coconut in the batter. They are especially good served hot out of the pan alongside a scoop of coconut or vanilla vegan ice cream.
¾ cup rice flour or all-purpose flour
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon baking soda
Pinch of salt
¾ cup water or unsweetened coconut milk
¾ cup shredded unsweetened coconut
¼ cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons coconut oil or neutral oil
4 large firm, ripe bananas or 8 ripe baby bananas, peeled and halved lengthwise (also halved crosswise, if large)
½ cup crushed dry-roasted peanuts
Vegan ice cream, for serving (optional)
In a bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. Add the water and mix well. Stir in ½ cup of the shredded coconut. Mix the batter until well combined. It will be thick.
Place the cornstarch in a shallow bowl. Add the remaining ¼ cup of coconut and stir to combine.
Dip the banana pieces into the batter, then gently dredge them in the cornstarch-coconut mixture and set on a plate.
Heat the oil in a deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the coated bananas to the hot skillet, in batches as needed. Cook until golden brown on the bottom, then flip over and continue cooking until the bananas are completely golden brown.
Remove from the skillet and drain on paper towels. Transfer to shallow dessert bowls. Serve hot sprinkled with peanuts alongside a scoop of ice cream, if desired.
Serves 4
GLUTEN-FREE
SOY-FREE
QUICK AND EASY
