colonial buildings in the Old City
EMERGENCY AND MEDICAL SERVICES
S PLAYA BLANCA AND ISLAS DEL ROSARIO
rooftop view of Cartagena.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Las Murallas: Stroll the centuries-old stone ramparts of the Old City and savor the moment with a sundowner cocktail at one of the wall’s breezy bars (click here).
S Colonial Churches: Catholicism was a driving force for the Spanish colonists. The photogenic churches on practically every plaza of the Centro stand not only as testaments to their will but remain as vital houses of worship for devout locals (click here).
S Palacio de la Inquisición: This spectacular 17th-century building was where Catholic authorities once meted out punishment to accused heretics during the Spanish colonial era. Today it’s a fine history museum (click here).
S Museo del Oro Zenú: This museum provides visitors a taste of highly detailed and spectacularly preserved golden ceremonial jewelry and earthenware from ancient Caribbean cultures (click here).
S Castillo de San Felipe: Wander through the tunnels of this 17th-century Spanish fortress built to protect the city and its gold from English pirates (click here).
S Playa Blanca and Islas del Rosario: Make it a true Caribbean holiday at this group of 25 coral islands, known for their white-sand beaches, turquoise waters, and gentle breezes (click here).
Magical Cartagena wastes no time in seducing its visitors. It’s a majestic walled city full of magnificent churches and palaces, picturesque balcony-lined streets, and romantic plazas.
The main attraction is the Old City (Cartagena’s centro histórico). The magnificent walls of the Ciudad Amurallada (the Walled City) enclose narrow streets lined with magnificent casas altas (two-story houses once home to wealthy merchants) with bougainvillea spilling out over their balconies. Getsemaní is an old working-class colonial neighborhood (also once enclosed by a wall) that today lures visitors with its many lodging, dining, and nightlife options. Near the Old City is the magnificent Castillo de San Felipe, one of the most impressive Spanish fortifications in the New World.
Outside the Old City, Cartagena is a large, poor, and sprawling city of almost one million people. If you want to get a sense of its size, visit La Popa (The Hill) for expansive views of the city and the bay. To get to know the real Cartagena firsthand, visit the frenetic Mercado de Bazurto to the southeast of the Old City and then, for contrast, take a stroll through flashy Bocagrande.
If you’re looking to play at the beach, escape to the white sands of Islas del Rosario or to Barú, as the gray beaches of Cartagena are unappealing.
Colombia’s colonial past lives on in Mompox, a once-thriving inland port on the Río Magdalena where it feels as if time has stopped.
Cartagena de Indias was founded in 1533 by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Heredia on a small Carib indigenous settlement. During the 16th century, the city was sacked by pirates numerous times, most notably by Sir Francis Drake in 1568. Pairs of forts were constructed at various passage points in the harbor to stop intruders. The construction of the fortifications took almost two centuries and was completed by the mid-1700s.
The city prospered as one of the main slave ports in Spanish America. It is estimated that more than one million slaves passed through the city. Slaves often escaped and created free communities known as palenques, such as the town of San Basilio, south of Cartagena.
Cartagena formally declared independence from Spain in 1812. In 1815, it was recaptured by the Spanish. Cartagena was retaken by revolutionaries in 1821. During the 19th century, Cartagena lost its status as one of Spain’s main ports. The economic decline had one good side effect: preserving the colonial past. The Old City remained largely intact through the 20th century, prompting UNESCO to declare it a World Heritage Site.
Cartagena remained relatively peaceful even during the worst periods of violence in the 1980s and 1990s. In the past decade, Cartagena has become a major international tourist destination, with a proliferation of chic, five-star hotels in the Old City, glitzy condominiums and hotels in Bocagrande, and new resorts along the coast north of the city.
Cartagena is an easy destination to visit even during a weekend. That’s enough time to stroll the streets of the Old City, experience some fine restaurants, and be pampered in a boutique hotel. Two days will suffice, but three days is ideal. For a quick beach getaway, head to Barú or the Islas del Rosario archipelago—preferably overnight, but they’re also doable as a day trip.
To venture farther afield, a week is optimal, but you may not be able to hit every top destination. Getting to the town of Mompox involves five hours of travel by road and river, so staying two nights there is necessary. To the northeast of Cartagena, Barranquilla and Santa Marta are an easy day or overnight trip. Farther east is the Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona, where travelers often spend 2-3 days. For those looking for the quintessential Colombian jungle experience, continue to the Parque Nacional Natural Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, where the famed Ciudad Perdida trek requires 4-5 days.
Peak tourist seasons are the last week of November (when the city celebrates its independence from Spain and hosts the Miss Colombia beauty pageant), from mid-December to mid-January, Semana Santa (Holy Week) in March or April, June to July (school vacations), and during any of the long weekends when Monday is a holiday (check a Colombian calendar). Holidays aren’t kind to wallets: Room rates spike dramatically.
The crown jewel of Colombian tourism, Cartagena is quite safe to visit. Be mindful while walking on the walls after dark. It’s easy to be distracted while strolling the streets, so keep your valuables close to your body.
While reports are rare, police have been known to stop and frisk young non-Colombian men in the evening, purportedly out of suspicion of drug possession—in actuality they are looking for money. This has occurred most commonly late at night in Getsemaní. Some people have found that calling attention to the officer and getting others to record the episode on their phone defuses the situation.
Some of the poor fishing villages on islands near Cartagena, such as Tierrabomba (close to the entrance to Bocachica), are best visited in a group. Keep an eye on drinks at late-night watering holes.
By far the greatest annoyances in Cartagena are persistent street vendors, who have even been known to latch on to walking tours. In the evening, some vendors will pitch less legal items on male passersby. Saying “No, gracias,” may or may not help ward off these nuisances. Don’t allow them to get under your skin.
Most taxi drivers, bartenders, and vendors are honest, but there are always a few who will try to take advantage of visitors by overcharging or not returning the proper amount of change to a non-Colombian visitor who may not hold a strong grasp of the language. Always try to pay with small notes or coins when possible—keep those COP$20,000 and COP$50,000 notes only for emergencies, or change them. Request to see the drinks menu (carta de tragos) at bars before ordering. Before getting into a cab, have an idea of what you’ll be paying, and confirm the amount with the driver upfront.
Cartagena de Indias is a sprawling city located on the Caribbean coast of Colombia at the north end of a large bay with the same name. The city’s tourist focus is a relatively small area: the Old City (Centro Histórico), the original Spanish settlement that was once completely enclosed by massive stone walls. The Old City comprises two main districts: the Centro, with its magnificent walls, narrow streets, colorful bougainvillea dangling from balconies, activity-packed plazas, and myriad churches and palaces; and Getsemaní, an old colonial neighborhood that was also enclosed by its own wall and fortifications. Today it is the hot new address for lodging, restaurant, and nightlife options.
The Centro (from centro histórico; also called the Old City or the Walled City) is the historic core of Cartagena; it’s surrounded by the most impressive sections of the city walls. This is where most of Cartagena’s sights are located, including its most famous churches and museums. The southern part of the Walled City boasts magnificent two-story casas altas (tall houses) built by merchants and government officials. Today, the Centro is where many upscale hotels, restaurants, shops, and nightclubs are found. The Plaza de Santo Domingo, filled with cafés, is one of the liveliest parts of town.
The northeastern half of the Centro is known as San Diego. In colonial times, this neighborhood was where artisans and laborers lived. Here the architecture is more modest. There are a few attractions in San Diego, notably the Iglesia de Santo Toribio de Mogrovejo and Las Bóvedas, a shopping arcade located in a section of the walls. The charm of San Diego lies in its quiet streets and pleasant bars and restaurants, particularly around the Plaza de San Diego.
Las Bóvedas in the Old City is the most atmospheric place to browse handicrafts and souvenirs.
The Centro is organized in a general grid with numerous plazas. Even many residents don’t know or use official street names, as they change from block to block. Orient yourself by identifying the main squares—Torre de los Coches, Plaza de la Aduana, Plaza de Santo Domingo, Parque de Bolívar, and Plaza Fernández de Madrid—and making your way from one to the other. Walking these charming streets (and even getting lost on occasion) is a pleasure.
Just north of the Old City is the 19th-century district of El Cabrero. The neighborhood’s sole attraction is the Casa Museo Rafael Núñez, once the home of conservative president Rafael Núñez, who governed from Cartagena.
The neighborhood of Getsemaní lies to the southeast of the Centro. During colonial times, Getsemaní was where poor residents lived, and the architecture here is much more modest than in the Centro. The epicenter of the neighborhood today is the Plaza de la Trinidad, in front of Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad, where backpackers, street performers, and longtime residents congregate in the evenings. Along the waterfront is the modern Centro de Convenciones.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the mangroves and marshes separating the Centro and Getsemaní were filled, resulting in the neighborhood called La Matuna. During the mid-20th century, many high-rises were built in La Matuna, but it’s still home to colorful open-air markets. La Matuna may be the next slice of the city to become gentrified.
Today the Muelle de los Pegasos (also known as the Muelle de la Bodeguita) is the departure point for tourist boats headed to the Islas del Rosario.
To the southeast of Getsemaní, across the Puente Roman (Roman Bridge) is the island of Manga, a residential district. The only destination in Manga is the Club de Pesca restaurant, housed in the well-preserved Fuerte de San Sebastián del Pastelillo, one of many forts that once protected the bay.
The boardwalk along Calle 24, with its magnificent views across the bay, is a pleasant place to walk at sunset. Many yachts and boats depart from Manga to go to the Islas del Rosario and Barú.
South of the Old City is upscale Bocagrande, a skinny peninsula with many high-rise hotels, malls, and residential buildings. The main attractions here are the beaches, which get packed on weekends with Colombian families, vendors, and masseuses. These gray-sand beaches in no way compare to the beautiful beaches of the Islas del Rosario and Barú.
Referring to Cartagena’s murallas (walls), Colombians endearingly call the city “El Corralito de Piedra” (little stone corral). These walls are one of the most salient features of the city. After Drake sacked the city in 1568, the Spanish started fortifying access to the bay and the perimeter wall around the city. The effort took almost two centuries to complete. The walls that can be seen today are mostly from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The most impressive part of the wall is the stretch that runs parallel to the sea. This includes three baluartes (bulwarks, or ramparts) where Spaniards stood ready to defend the city from attack. The massive Baluartes de San Lucas y de Santa Catalina, built in the very north of the city to repel attacks from land, are known as Las Tenazas because they are shaped like pincers. When the sea started depositing sediments and expanding the seashore, thus enabling the enemy to maneuver south along the wall, the Spanish built a spike to halt them. This defensive structure, known as El Espigón de la Tenaza, is now home to the Museo de las Fortificaciones (Baluarte de Santa Catalina, tel. 5/656-0591, www.fortificacionesdecartagena.com, 8am-6pm daily, COP$7,000). At the westernmost tip of the walls, facing the sea, is the equally impressive Baluarte Santo Domingo, now home to swank drinking hole Café del Mar. At the southern tip of the segment of walls facing the sea, next to the Plaza de Santa Teresa, are the Baluartes de San Ignacio y de San Francisco Javier, also home to a pleasant outdoor bar.
A paseo (walk) on the walls is the quintessential Cartagena experience, enjoyed by international visitors, Colombian honeymooners, and Cartagenan high school students. The best time for this is in the early evening hours. Avoid walking the walls alone late at night.
The Claustro de San Pedro Claver (Plaza de San Pedro Claver No. 30-01, tel. 5/664-4991, 8am-5:30pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-4:30pm Sat.-Sun., COP$9,000) is a former Jesuit monastery turned museum, where Pedro Claver served as a priest. He is remembered for his compassion toward newly arrived African slaves, and is said to have baptized thousands of them. The priest was the first person to be canonized in the New World. The museum has relics and art from the colonial era. The cloister, where San Pedro Claver lived, has a courtyard brimming with flowers and trees.
Adjacent to the monastery is the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver (Plaza de San Pedro Claver No. 30-01, tel. 5/664-4991, masses 6:45am and 6pm Mon.-Sat., 7am, 10am, noon, and 6pm Sun.), which is adorned by a beautiful marble altar and is the final resting place for San Pedro Claver.
Iglesia de San Pedro Claver
Diagonal to the Parque de Bolívar is the built-to-last Catedral Basílica Menor or Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría (tel. 5/665-0211, mass 10am, noon, and 5pm Mon.-Sat., 8am and 7pm Sun., COP$13,000, free during mass). It was built in the 16th century and doubled as a fortress. It was attacked by Sir Francis Drake in 1586. The facade, along with most of the interior, has been stripped of the Italianate stucco exterior that was added in the 20th century and restored to its former austere stone look. The cathedral’s pink and orange bell tower dates to the early 20th century, and can be seen from throughout the Old City. Stroll the ornate cathedral before or during a mass to skip the entry fee. Audio guides (included with admission) are available.
The gorgeous Iglesia de Santo Toribio de Mogrovejo (Plaza Fernández de Madrid at Cl. Sargento Mayor and Cl. del Curato, tel. 5/664-5347, mass 6:30am, noon, and 6pm Mon.-Sat., 8am, 10am, 6pm, and 7pm Sun.) is elegant in its simplicity. This small, early-18th-century church has a stone entrance, a Mudejar-style ceiling, and baroque high altar. On display is a cannonball launched by English pirate Edward Vernon. The church hosts mass several times each day.
Cartagena’s main art museum, the Museo de Arte Moderno de Cartagena de Indias (Cl. 30 No. 4-08, Plaza de San Pedro Claver, tel. 5/664-5815, 9am-noon and 3pm-6pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-1pm Sat., COP$5,000, Tues. free) is on the square in front of Plaza de San Pedro Claver, which contains several metallic sculptures by Cartagenero Edgardo Carmona that depict quotidian scenes of Cartagena life. The museum has a small permanent collection of works from 20th-century Colombian artists, including native sons Alejandro Obregón and Enrique Grau. The museum is in the old Customs House. For more detailed information on the museum and its collections, download Soundwalkrs, a free smartphone app.
Adjoining the rear of the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver is the Museo Naval del Caribe (Cl. San Juan de Dios No. 3-62, tel. 5/664-2440, www.museonavaldelcaribe.com, 10am-5:30pm daily, COP$8,000). This museum provides a history lesson of the earliest indigenous dwellers who lived in the area, continuing through the Spanish conquest and including a bit about the many (mostly English) pirates who tried to steal the Spaniards’ gold loot, which they had absconded with from all across South America. The second floor has a lot of replicas of grand ships from the period and a history of the Colombian navy (you may be surprised to learn of its participation in the Korean War). There are few explanations in English. Part of the building dates to the 17th century and was a Jesuit convent; after the Jesuits were expelled by the king, the building was converted into a hospital. Pushing buttons in the submarine upstairs makes the price of admission worth it.
One of the city’s most pleasant and lively squares is the Parque de Bolívar, which once served as a bullfighting ring. A statue of Simón Bolívar on horseback presides over the center of the lush park. Take a break on a bench under the shade of the rubber trees.
Parque de Bolívar
On the south side of the plaza is the Palacio de la Inquisición (Parque de Bolívar, tel. 5/664-4570, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-4pm Sun., COP$16,000). This remarkable 18th-century construction, one of the finest extant examples of colonial architecture in the city, was the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition in Cartagena. In this building was housed the Tribunal del Santo Oficio, whose purpose was to exert control over the Indians, mestizos, and African slaves not only in Nueva Granada but also in New World colonies in Central America, the Caribbean, and Venezuela. The tribunal was active from 1610 until the late 17th century. There were two other tribunals in the New World: one in Lima and another in Mexico City.
Palacio de la Inquisición
The first floor of the building is a museum displaying the weapons of torture employed by authorities as part of the Inquisition. In Cartagena as elsewhere, the most common punishable crime was “witchcraft,” and hundreds of supposed heretics (indigenous people were excluded from punishment) were condemned here. On the second floor are exhibition spaces dedicated to the restoration of the building and to the history of Cartagena. Most explanations are written in Spanish; you may decide to hire one of the English-speaking guides (COP$35,000 for a group up to five persons). On your way out, take a right and then another right onto Calle de la Inquisición and look for a small window on the palace wall. This was a secret spot where citizens of colonial Cartagena could anonymously report others for various and sundry heresies.
The Museo del Oro Zenú (Cra. 4 No. 33-26, Parque de Bolívar, tel. 5/660-0778, 9am-5pm Tues.-Sat., 10am-3pm Sun., free), on the east side of the Parque de Bolívar, exhibits gold jewelry and funerary objects from the Zenú indigenous people, who were the original dwellers of the Río Magdalena area and Río Sinú valley, to the southwest of Cartagena. It has excellent explanations in both English and Spanish. A smaller version of the Museo del Oro in Bogotá, this museum has a regional focus and is one of the few tributes to indigenous culture in Cartagena.
The murallas extend along the edge of Getsemaní, but strolling along them is not nearly as pleasant as in the Centro. You can, however, check out the Baluarte del Reducto, where there is a bar and sweeping bay views. This bulwark, part of the city’s system of walls, once protected the city from potential enemies.
Paseo de los Mártires was once the main corridor that led from the Walled City to Getsemaní and today features nine marble statues of important historical figures. Adjacent to the corridor is the Parque del Centenario, which was opened in 1911 in commemoration of Colombia’s first century of independence. It’s a pleasant place for a stroll, and you just might spot enormous iguanas scurrying from tree to tree. On the northern edge of the park are a series of stalls where vendors sell used books.
There are two colonial-era churches in Getsemaní worth a peek. The first is the Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad (Plaza de la Trinidad, tel. 5/664-2050, mass 6pm Mon.-Sat., 9am and 6pm Sun.), completed in the mid-17th century. This bright yellow church of three naves has as its model the city’s cathedral. The church is often open during the day, and visitors are welcome to sit on a pew in front of a massive fan and cool off. In the evenings the colorful Plaza de la Trinidad is a hub of activity.
Total Distance: 1.6 kilometers (1 mile)
Walking Time: 25-30 minutes
The best way to get to know Cartagena is to go for a morning stroll, finding your way from plaza to plaza, and even getting lost a couple of times. This tour starts in the Centro and ends in San Diego.
1. Start at the Plaza de los Coches (west of Av. Venezuela, opposite Getsemaní), once the main entry point to the city. It is easily identifiable by the iconic 19th-century Torre del Reloj (clock tower) that tops the entrance through the wall. Inside stands a statue of Cartagena’s founder, Pedro de Heredia. During the colonial period, this plaza was the site of the city’s slave market. Today, the plaza is filled with watering holes catering to visitors. Along the main corridor is the Portal de las Dulces, a row of stands where Afro-Colombian women sell homemade sweets, often made from coconut and tamarind.
Torre del Reloj in the Plaza de los Coches
2. Immediately to the southwest is the large triangular Plaza de la Aduana, once the seat of power in colonial Cartagena. It is surrounded by stately colonial mansions. A statue of Christopher Columbus presides in the center. It has its fair share of ATMs and is where the main tourist office is located.
3. Adjacent to Plaza de la Aduana to the southwest is the Plaza de San Pedro, a small but charming square, located in front of the imposing Iglesia de San Pedro Claver and attached cloister.
4. Walk two blocks north on Calle de San Pedro and you’ll arrive at the city’s heart, the leafy Parque de Bolívar, a shady park with benches, fountains, and a statue of Simón Bolívar in the middle. Surrounding this lovely park are some of the most important buildings of the city, including the Catedral Basílica Menor and the Palacio de la Inquisición.
5. Continue north on Calle de los Santos de Piedra for one block. Take the first left onto Calle de Ayos. One block west is the Plaza de Santo Domingo, in the heart of the former upper-class quarter. You will notice many superb two-story casas altas built by rich merchants. The plaza is dominated by the austere Iglesia de Santo Domingo. A rotund nude bronze sculpture by famous Colombian sculptor Fernando Botero, live musical performances, and many outdoor cafés liven up the popular plaza.
6. Walk north along Calle de Santo Domingo for a block, then turn right and head east for four blocks on Calle de la Mantilla until you reach Calle Segunda de Badillo. Turn left and half a block north is the large, green Plaza Fernández de Madrid in the San Diego district. On the northwest side is the charming Iglesia de Santo Toribio de Mogrovejo, with its magnificent wooden ceiling.
7. Head east on Calle del Santísimo for two blocks, then turn left on Calle Cochera del Hobo and go north just over a block to the Plaza de San Diego, which is surrounded by inviting restaurants. It’s also where artisans sell handicrafts under the shade of a tree.
8. Walk north for one block on Calle de las Bóvedas, which will deposit you at the Plaza de las Bóvedas at the extreme northeast of the city. Once the location of a military storehouse, this is where you can browse handicrafts under the golden arched walls of the Galería de las Bóvedas.
In response to the deadly cholera outbreak that was ravaging Cartagena at the time, church leaders committed to building a church dedicated to Saint Roch, protector of those afflicted with the plague. Construction on the simple Iglesia de San Roque (Cl. de la Media Luna and Cl. Espíritu Santo, tel. 5/664-2512, mass 7pm Mon.-Sat., 8:30am and 7pm Sun.) began in 1651.
Just beyond the wall in the Cabrero neighborhood is the Casa Museo Rafael Núñez (Cl. Real del Cabrero No. 41-89, tel. 5/660-9058, 9am-5pm Tues.-Fri., 10am-4pm Sat.-Sun., free). This is the house of Rafael Núñez, the four-time former president of Colombia, author of the 1886 Colombian constitution, and author of the 11 verses of Colombia’s national anthem. Núñez governed Colombia from this, his coastal home. The museum has memorabilia from his political life and is a beautiful example of 19th-century Cartagena architecture. Núñez’s grave is in the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes across the street.
The largest Spanish fort in the New World, the magnificent Castillo de San Felipe (Cerro de San Lázaro, east of Old City, tel. 5/656-6803, www.patrimoniodecartagena.com, 8am-6pm daily, COP$17,000) must have given pirates pause as they contemplated an attack on the city. While the walls around the city fended off maritime attacks, this fort was built atop the Cerro de San Lázaro to repel attacks by land at the Media Luna gate. Construction was begun in 1639 and completed more than a century later. Tunnels enabled soldiers to quickly move about without being noticed, and cells housed the occasional unlucky prisoner.
Castillo de San Felipe, one of the most impressive forts in the New World
Today, visitors ramble through 890 meters (0.5 mile) of tunnels and secret passages (a flashlight will come in quite handy). Views from the highest points of the fort are magnificent. The best time to visit the fort is in the late afternoon, when the intense sun abates. Audio tours (COP$10,000) are available. For many, the view of the fort from a distance suffices, especially at nighttime when it is lit up.
If you want to do things up for a special celebration, you can rent out the entire castillo or space on the murallas. Contact the Sociedad de Mejoras Públicas de Cartagena (Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, tel. 5/656-0590, www.fortificacionesdecartagena.com) for more information.
To get to the fort, take a cab (COP$6,000), a bus (COP$1,500) from Avenida Santander, or the TransCaribe (COP$2,000) from Avenida Venezuela.
La Popa is a 150-meter-high (500-foot-high) hill east of Castillo de San Felipe, so named because of its resemblance to a ship’s stern (popa in Spanish). La Popa is home to the Convento Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria (Cra. 20A 29D-16, tel. 5/666-0976, 9am-5:30pm daily, COP$5,000), which was built by Augustinian monks, reportedly on a pagan site of worship. The monastery has a courtyard abloom with flowers, a small chapel where faithful pray to the Virgen de la Candelaria, and memorabilia from Pope John Paul II’s visit to the monastery in 1986. For many, the view of Cartagena is the biggest attraction. Cruise ship passengers arrive by the busload at La Popa, so be prepared for crowds. You can take a taxi there from the Old City for COP$50,000-60,000 round-trip. Arrange the price in advance and make sure the driver will wait for you there. Many visitors combine a visit to La Popa with the Castillo de San Felipe, which is nearby (although not within walking distance).
Not for the faint of heart, a visit to the sprawling, grimy Mercado de Bazurto (Av. Pedro Heredia, 5am-4pm daily) is the best way to connect with the real Cartagena. On the periphery of this covered market, be sure to peruse the seafood area, where women sell the catch of the day to restaurant owners. Be amazed at all the different kinds of fruit on offer. Don’t be afraid to barter a little and don’t be shy: The hundreds of vendors generally enjoy interacting with foreign visitors. The market is at its liveliest in the morning; expect to spend a few hours here. Dress down and keep an eye on your valuables.
The market is in the Pie de la Popa neighborhood southeast of the Old City. The best way to get there is via taxi (COP$8,000). It’s possible to take a bus (COP$1,500) from Avenida Santander and there is also a TransCaribe rapid bus station here.
Another way of visiting the market is the Mercado de Bazurto Tour (tel. 5/660-1492, cell tel. 315/655-4120, cevicheria@hotmail.com, COP$250,000 pp), organized by La Cevichería and Bazurto Social Club. On the tour, you’ll learn about the ingredients that make Caribbean cuisine special, particularly seafood and exotic fruits. You’ll also meet the vendors who have worked their entire lives behind a stall at the market. Afterward you’ll head to a beach house and have a gourmet lunch featuring lobster and other delicacies.
Bursting with insider tips on the city and its environs, This Is Cartagena (Cl. Sargento Mayor, No. 6-107, Of. 104, cell tel. 318/516-7767, www.ticartagena.com, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri.) offers unconventional tours of the city. In addition to a top-notch walking tour of the Old City (US$52), the company also offers a tour devoted to the art scene (US$55), a bizarre-foods tour (US$85), a day of luxurious island-hopping on a yacht (US$750), and a drinking tour (US$75).
A fund-raising project for the nonprofit FEM (www.femcolombia.org), Cartagena Insider (Cl. del Quero No. 9-64, tel. 5/643-4185, cartagenainsider@gmail.com) takes visitors beyond the boutique hotels and fancy restaurants of the Old City to experience the “real” Cartagena and its people. Tour options include a night of salsa, a day trip to La Boquilla fishing community, a walking tour of the Mercado de Bazurto, and a tour focusing on the Champeta music culture unique to Cartagena. Proceeds go directly to the nonprofit’s social programs in and around the city. Tours can also be arranged to communities such as Tuchín, Córdoba, Leticia (a town on Barú), Palmerito, and San Bacile de Palenque.
With an extensive array of interesting tours, Alternative Travel Cartagena (tel. 5/646-0701, www.alternativetravelcartagena.com) aims to take visitors to lesser-known areas in and around Cartagena for a unique experience. They are based in the fishing village of La Boquilla and offer horseback rides on the beach, cooking classes, and canoe rides through mangroves.
Photographer Joaquin Saramiento offers various tours of the city with Fototour (cell tel. 317/365-4021, http://fototour.co, US$80), during which amateur photographers can hone their skills, learn about Cartagena’s history and culture, and explore the city.
Cartagena’s nightspots tend to close at 3am weekdays, with some staying open until 5am on weekends. Expect to pay a cover fee, but groups can ask for a discount.
The city’s favorite music styles are old-school salsa and son cubano, along with the Afro beats of champeta.
With the Caribbean breeze kissing your face, enjoying a drink on the murallas is an experience that shouldn’t be missed. There are three official options for this activity, one of them a cheapie. First, the Baluarte Tasca-Bar (Cl. San Juan de Dios, tel. 5/660-0468, 5:30pm-2am daily, no cover) is an open-air restaurant-bar on the wall across from the Plaza de Santa Teresa. It’s chilled-out here, not trendy—but the drink prices are on the steep side: COP$24,000 for a margarita. The most happening spot is the Café del Mar (Baluarte Santo Domingo, tel. 5/664-6515, 5pm-3am daily, no cover), on the wall near the entrance to the Plaza de Santo Domingo. The music is loungey and electronic, and it stays busy until late. It’s a cool place, but it’s not great for mingling, as patrons are all seated in bulky furniture, and the drinks are pricey. The third option is also good for your budget: Buy an Águila beer from a roaming vendor (COP$3,000) and wander the walls at your leisure.
In an unassuming corner of the Plaza de San Pedro Claver, El Barón (Cra. 4 No. 31-7, tel. 5/664-3105, 5pm-1am Sun.-Mon., noon-1am Tues., noon-2am Wed.-Sat., no cover) is devoted to cocktail culture. The interior is all brass and rustic furnishings, but you can also sip the evening away out on the plaza, where the people-watching is fantastic. Allow the bartender to mix you a gin-basil smash—you can get a beer anytime. Tapas are also on offer.
If you’re looking for atmosphere, head to El Coro (Cl. del Torno No. 39-29, tel. 5/650-4700, 5pm-2am Sun.-Thurs., 5pm-3am Fri.-Sat., no cover), at the Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara. At this posh bar in a former 17th-century convent, crisply dressed bartenders serve Caribbean cocktails to hotel guests and others while Latin jazz plays in the background. Of the larger convent complex, El Coro is located in the chorus area from where the resident nuns sang while mass was celebrated in the adjacent chapel. Ask to see the crypt, which was an inspiration for Gabriel García Márquez as he wrote Of Love and Other Demons.
Donde Fidel (Plaza de los Coches, tel. 5/664-3127, noon-2am Sun.-Thurs., noon-3am Fri.-Sat., no cover) is a tiny salsa lovers’ spot where the action spills out onto the plaza in front. Good times and cold beer can be found here.
La Esquina Sandiegana (corner of Cl. del Santísimo and Cl. de los Púntales, 5pm-2am Sun.-Thurs., 5pm-3am Fri.-Sat., no cover) is a locals’ place, where the music is salsa and the drink is beer. Its walls are decorated with salsa posters, album covers, and photographs of salsa greats. It’s a hole-in-the-wall bar in the San Diego neighborhood.
Gay nightlife in Cartagena is not exactly thriving: There are only a couple of spots worth checking out. Crowds are friendly and the scene is mixed.
Brash D8 (Cl. del Arsenal No. 8B-155, tel. 5/646-0657, 10pm-4am Fri.-Sat.) is the dance club of the moment in Cartagena. To take it down a notch, try Le Petit Club (Cl. del Candilejo No. 32-34, 5pm-2am Wed.-Sat.), which has a pub-like atmosphere, especially midweek.
Wednesdays are the new Saturdays in Cartagena. In Getsemaní, Visa por un Sueño (Media Luna Hostel, Cl. de la Media Luna No. 10-46, tel. 5/664-0639, http://medialunahostel.com, 9pm-3am Wed., COP$10,000) is a weekly party held on the rooftop of the Media Luna Hostel. It has become Cartagena’s most famous soiree, where international party people mix it up with Colombians. Get there early—this party gets seriously packed, and lines will be very long. Another option offered by the hostel is the Media Luna Boat Party (medialunaboatparty@gmail.com, usually 2pm-6pm Sun., COP$60,000), which leaves from the Muelle de los Pegasos every Sunday. To confirm the schedule, check the hostel’s Facebook page or swing by the hostel in person to reserve your spot.
It’s easy to like Locombia Café Bar (Cl. de la Media Luna No. 29-209, cell tel. 316/585-9172, noon-1am daily), with its unpretentious personality, cool music, and tiny location from which you can keep tabs on all the activity on happening Calle de la Media Luna.
Café Havana (intersection of Cl. de la Media Luna and Cl. del Guerrero, cell tel. 314/556-3905 or 310/610-2324, www.cafehavanacartagena.com, 8:30pm-4am Thurs.-Sat., cover varies) famously got the endorsement of Hillary Clinton on her trip to Colombia in 2012, when she was Secretary of State. It’s a place for rum drinks and dancing. Café Havana is open Sundays when the following Monday is a holiday.
Bazurto Social Club (Av. del Centenario No. 30-42, tel. 5/664-3124, www.bazurtosocialclub.com, 7pm-3am Thurs.-Sat., cover varies) is an always-lively restaurant-bar, popular with Colombians and international visitors alike. Get a taste for Afro-Colombian champeta beats, as live acts, including the Bazurto All Stars, often perform here. They also serve food, such as shrimp empanadas and paella. The house drink is the fruity rum machacos.
Cartagena feels like a celebration all the time, but it’s especially true from November to February, when an array of cultural events are featured. Pick up a copy of Donde, a free monthly newspaper with Cartagena event listings. You can find it at the airport and in big hotels.
The Hay Festival (www.hayfestival.com) is an important international festival that began in Wales nearly 30 years ago. It celebrates literature, music, environmental awareness, and community and is held in various cities across the world, including in Cartagena in late January. Bill Clinton has called it the “Woodstock of the mind.” In addition to talks and concerts, the festival holds educational programs for youth in the neighborhoods of Cartagena. It also provides free or discounted tickets to students. Most of the events take place in the Teatro Heredia (Cl. de la Chichería No. 38-10, tel. 5/664-6023 or 5/664-9631). While the festival’s name is pronounced as the English “hay,” in Colombia it’s often pronounced as the Spanish “hay” (“ai”). Hay Festival is thus a double entendre: hay festival in Spanish means yes, there is a festival!
The Teatro Heredia is the site of the Hay Festival.
Over the course of a week in early to mid-January, the churches, plazas, and theaters of the Walled City become the setting for classical music concerts by musicians from all over the world during the Festival Internacional de Música (International Music Festival, www.cartagenamusicfestival.com, tickets www.tuboleta.com). Most concerts sell out far in advance, but if you can’t get tickets, you might be able to catch a free performance in one of the churches or plazas in the Old City.
If you’re in town during late February and are looking for an excuse to escape the heat, here it is: the Festival Internacional de Cine de Cartagena de Indias (International Film Festival, tel. 5/664-2345, www.ficcifestival.com). A tradition since the 1960s, this weeklong film festival has an interesting program of documentaries, Colombian films, and shorts; a series of roundtable discussions with prominent actors and directors; and educational activities in neighborhoods throughout the city. The venues include historic buildings and plazas.
Beauty contests, and especially the Concurso Nacional de Belleza (Miss Colombia Pageant, tel. 5/660-0779, www.srtacolombia.org), are a big deal in Colombia. The coronation of Señorita Colombia takes place every November and is the highlight of Cartagena’s Independence Day celebrations. Aspirers for the title represent each of the departments of the country, in addition to some cities. Ladies from the Valle del Cauca and Atlántico have won the most titles (10 each) since the pageant began in the 1930s. In 2001, the first Miss Colombia of Afro-Colombian heritage was chosen: Vanessa Mendoza, who represented the Chocó department. Tickets to the main events—the swimsuit competition at the Cartagena Hilton and the coronation at the Centro de Convenciones—are hard to come by but not impossible to purchase.
In early January every year, especially on the first weekend after New Year’s Day, one or two multiday beachside electronic music festivals take place. Drawing a hip and sexy crowd from Bogotá, Medellín, and Cali, as well as international visitors escaping cold winters, the festival of the moment is Storyland (www.storyland.com.co). Tickets and information can also be found at Tu Boleta (www.tuboleta.com). Buy your tickets well in advance.
The bazaar-like Centro Comercial Getsemaní (Cl. 30 No. 8B-74, tel. 5/664-2508, hours vary daily) shopping center doesn’t cater to tourists. It’s made up of hundreds of small mom-and-pop kiosks that sell just about everything: computer supplies, notebooks, beauty supplies, handicrafts, and knickknacks. You can probably get your nails done here as well. This place is huge and oozing with personality.
You didn’t come all this way to go to a mall. But if you want to browse upscale shops, have a meal, go to a movie, or just enjoy the air-conditioning, Cartagena has a pair of malls just for you. The newer of the two, the Centro Comercial Bocagrande (Cra. 1 No. 12-118, Bocagrande, 10am-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 10am-10pm Fri.-Sun.), is also the easier to access. It’s located at the entrance of Bocagrande, along the water, and has a movie theater, gym, and a large food court, including a Ruby Tuesday’s, where you can dine while you watch the sun set. Centro Comercial Caribe Plaza (Cl. 29D No. 22-108, Pie de la Popa, 10am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 10am-9pm Fri.-Sun.) is an upscale modern mall near the Castillo de San Felipe with numerous clothing and shoe stores, a movie theater, and a food court. Traffic can be heavy getting to and from this mall.
Antiques shops provide a glimpse into aristocratic living from the Cartagena of yesteryear. El Arcón Anticuario (Cl. del Camposanto No. 9-46, tel. 5/664-1197) showcases Colombian furniture from both the colonial and Republican eras. This is the spot to pick up your very own whimsical Cartagenan doorknocker or chandelier.
Casa Chiqui (Cl. de la Universidad No. 36-127, Centro, tel. 5/668-5429, www.casachiqui.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) specializes in interesting interior design items, housewares, and furniture from around the world. While Asia, Africa, and the Middle East are represented, there are Colombian handicrafts, such as colorful Barranquillan Carnaval masks, woven handbags, and placemats made from palm leaves, on display as well.
The most historic place to pick up some Colombian handicrafts is at Las Bóvedas (San Diego, extreme northeastern corner of the wall, 9am-6pm daily). Once a military storehouse, today it’s the place to buy multicolored hammocks and all kinds of Colombian artesanías (handicrafts) of varying quality.
For high-quality handicrafts, you’re better off going to Artesanías de Colombia (Centro de Convenciones, Local 5, Getsemaní, tel. 5/660-9615, 10am-7pm Mon.-Sat.). This is a government entity whose mission it is to promote Colombian handicrafts and craftspeople. This store sells handicrafts from across the country but specializes in masks from the Carnaval de Barranquilla, woven mochilas (handbags) from indigenous groups in the Sierra Nevada, and the colorful embroidery of molas from indigenous groups in the Darién Gap region near Panama.
El Centavo Menos (Cl. Roma No. 5-08, Centro, tel. 5/664-7939, 9am-7pm Mon.-Sat.) has been around since 1933, and it keeps going strong, still managed by the same family. Once a general store, today you can pick up hammocks, hats, and pretty much anything else.
For brightly painted depictions of old Cartagena on recycled wood, check out the workshop Marquetería Mau (Cl. Quero No. 9-23, Centro, cell tel. 312/629-9153, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-1pm Sat.).
L.A. Cano (Cl. Estanco del Tabaco No. 35-81, Centro, tel. 5/647-8704, www.lacano.co, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-9pm Sun.), a nationally recognized family jewelry business that has generations of experience, specializes in 24-karat gold-plated jewelry. Cano has another smaller location at the Hotel Santa Clara (Cl. del Torno No. 39-29, tel. 5/664-4434, 10am-6pm daily).
Colombian emeralds are considered to be some of the finest in the world, with the most acclaimed stones coming from the Buzo mines in the country’s interior. Check out reasonably priced Lucy Joyería (Cl. Santo Domingo No. 3-19, Centro, tel. 5/664-4255, www.lucyjoyeriacartagena.com, 10am-8pm Mon.-Sat.), one of the best-known jewelers in the city. They specialize in emeralds and can accept custom orders, but expect a wait of several weeks.
In Cartagena, touches of Cuba are found everywhere: mojitos, music, and, too, the cigars. At La Cava del Puro (Cl. de las Damas No. 3-106, Centro, tel. 5/664-9482, www.lacavadelpuro.com, 9am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-8pm Sun.) they don’t sell just any old stogie; here the cigars come from Havana and are of the best quality. Smoking is not only permitted here, but in fact promoted. Sometimes a little whiskey is even served to perusing clients.
NH Galería (Cra. 2 No. 33-36, tel. 5/664-0561, www.nhgaleria.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Tues. and Thurs.-Sat., 4pm-8pm Sun., free) features contemporary Colombian artists and works in conjunction with the Nora Haime Gallery in New York City.
For men, nothing says Cartagena chic like a crisp guayabera shirt. The typical linen or cotton guayabera has two vertical embroidered stripes and four pockets, and can be worn to a wedding or special event, or even out to dinner at one of the elegant restaurants of the Old City. Tailor Edgar Gómez of Ego (Cl. de Portobello No. 10-92, Centro, tel. 5/668-6016, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) purportedly once made a guayabera for Bill Gates and the king of Spain. Guayaberas of all qualities and prices can be found throughout the city, from mom-and-pop shops in the San Diego neighborhood to department stores like Éxito (Cl. 38 No. 10-85, tel. 5/664-1066, 10am-9pm daily). Malls are a good bet too: Try PatPrimo (Centro Comercial San Felipe Local 1-22, Cl. 29B with Cra. 17, Pie de la Popa, tel. 5/693-0026, 10am-7pm Mon.-Sun.) in the Centro Comercial San Felipe, where you can pick up one for under US$40.
Along Calle Santo Domingo there are several boutiques of top Colombian designers. Bogotana Bettina Spitz (Cl. de la Mantilla No. 3-37, Centro, tel. 5/660-2160, www.bettinaspitz.com, 11am-1pm and 2pm-8pm daily) sells casual, beach, and formal clothes for women, as well as an array of accessories, shoes, and some men’s items. Onda de Mar (Cl. de las Damas, Centro, tel. 5/668-5226, 9am-6pm daily) is a Colombian clothing brand that has everything you need for a day at the beach. St. Dom (Cl. de Santo Domingo No. 33-70, Centro, tel. 5/664-0197, 10am-8pm Mon.-Sat., noon-6pm Sun.) is a boutique that brings together Colombian designers of accessories, clothing, handbags, and jewelry.
Jon Sonen (Cl. Ricaurte No. 31-56, Centro, tel. 5/664-1092 or 5/660-4682, www.jonsonen.com, 10am-8pm Sun.-Thurs., 10am-9pm Fri.-Sat.) is a Colombian label specializing in menswear, with other stores throughout the country. Único (Cl. San Juan de Dios No. 3-121, tel. 5/664-4999, 11am-8pm, Mon.-Sat.) is a Colombian brand of underwear and swimsuits marketed to gay men and metrosexuals looking to make an impression.
The most atmospheric book-browsing experience in the city is on the northern edge of the Parque del Centenario in Getsemaní, home to several secondhand book stalls. You never know what you might find. Days and hours of operation are irregular, so just stroll by if you’re in the area.
Abaco Libros (Cl. de la Mantilla, Centro, tel. 5/664-8290, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 3pm-9pm Sun.) is a cozy bookshop and café with a variety of books on Cartagena, top Colombian novels, and a selection of magazines, classics, and best sellers in English. Librería Nacional (Cl. Segunda de Badillo No. 36-27, Centro, tel. 5/664-1448, 8:30am-12:30pm and 2pm-6:30pm Mon.-Fri., 8:30am-5pm Sat.) is a chain bookstore with shelves full of Colombian and Spanish-language books, and some books in English.
Though Cartagena boasts a seaside location, it lacks the spectacular beaches that first-time visitors might be envisioning. Instead, the most popular beaches in Cartagena, located on the Caribbean side of the Bocagrande peninsula, feature gray-sand beaches packed with Colombian families and plied by vendors and masseuses. Umbrella rentals are expected, and usually cost around COP$20,000 for the afternoon. Near the jetties is a section of the beach where gay men tend to gather, called Playa Hollywood. Beyond this point, the beach hangs a sharp left and merges into the beaches of the Laguito neighborhood; there are some waterfront restaurants and windsurfing rentals here. Bocagrande’s beaches are just a 10-minute cab ride from the Old City and offer water that’s good for swimming and splashing around—but don’t expect the turquoise colors often associated with the Caribbean.
The beaches in Bocagrande are popular with Colombian families.
For those willing to travel farther afield, there are beaches at Marbella and Las Americas (neighborhoods just east of El Cabrero, northeast of the city) that attract fewer crowds and are fine destinations for swimming. Marbella, closest to the Old City, offers public beaches in front of the Ibis Hotel, but few services. The beaches of Las Americas are about 30 minutes outside of the Old City, and are lined with high-rise hotels and condos. Though these beaches are open to the public, the best way to enjoy them is to purchase a pasadia (day pass) at one of the hotels. A day pass typically allows you to access the hotel’s beachfront as well as its pool, and may include lunch and a few beverages. To purchase a pass, just walk into any of the hotels—or buy one in advance from the COTELCO office (tel. 5/656-9200, www.cotelcoctg.org, open until late daily) in the baggage claim area at the airport, as they offer a 20 percent discount.
The top day-pass option is at the Hotel Karmairí (Km. 3 Vía Manzanillo, cell tel. 317/775-2097, www.karmairi.com), in the Manzanillo neighborhood, just beyond Las Americas. The hotel boasts a spa with numerous services, thatched-roof cabañas, and a pool. They play good music, too, especially on weekends. The Plan Karmairí (COP$180,000) includes drinks, lunch, towels, and use of the beach, pool, and deck. A massage costs another COP$35,000.
For postcard-perfect white-sand beaches and palm trees, book a day tour or multiday excursion to Barú or the Islas del Rosario.
The best time to explore Cartagena by bike is early on a Sunday morning or on a Sunday or Monday evening when there is little activity and light traffic in the Old City. Many hostels and some hotels have bicycles for rent.
Bicitour Getsemaní (Cl. Don Sancho, Edificio Aqua Marina, cell tel. 300/357-1825, COP$5,000/2-hour rental) rents out bikes and offers guided tours of the Old City, Manga, and Bocagrande. Velo Tours (Cl. Gastelbondo, tel. 5/664-9714, www.velotours.com.co, COP$80,000/day) offers several bike tours of the city, including a three-hour nighttime tour (COP$80,000).
Diving Planet (Cl. Estanco del Aguardiente No. 5-09, tel. 5/660-0450, www.divingplanet.org, 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat.) offers classes and diving excursions to some 25 locations throughout the Parque Nacional Natural Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo. A one-day course costs COP$305,000; a day trip for already-certified divers costs COP$290,000. Discounts are offered for paying in advance online or in cash. Multiday PADI certification courses are also available, some of which include an overnight on the white beaches of the Islas del Rosario. Snorkeling excursions are also available (COP$190,000).
About half an hour’s drive northeast of Cartagena, along the beaches of the Manzanillo neighborhood, the Swiss-run Pure Kitesurf (Manzanillo, cell tel. 321/521-5110, www.purekitesurf.com) offers kitesurfing classes, with instruction available in Spanish, English, and German. They also offer a six-day, all-inclusive tour of the Caribbean coast for US$750.
Cartagena Kitesurf School (Cra. 1B No. 1-52, El Laguito neighborhood, cell tel. 300/461-9947, www.kitesurfcartagena.com) offers a basic eight-hour course (COP$700,000) and a two-hour course (COP$200,000). If wind conditions are not good enough, the school will transport students to Puerto Velero, up the coast, where there’s always a good breeze. While the school is located in the Laguito section of Bocagrande, most classes take place on the beaches of Las Americas.
It doesn’t get much better than renting out a 43-foot catamaran with a captain and crew and sailing around Cartagena and its nearby islands. Veleros Colombia (cell tel. 316/528-2413, www.veleroscolombia.com, COP$2,900,000/4 hours) can make that happen. In addition, they offer sailing courses (COP$4,650,000/3-day course) along the Caribbean coast, and diving excursions in the Islas del Rosario and the Islas de San Bernardo.
With its salsa classes, the cultural center Ciudad Móvil (Cl. del Espíritu Santo No. 29-140, Getsemaní, cell tel. 311/652-0842, 10am-11pm daily) is a good stop for anyone hoping to make a splash on the dance floor. This funky spot is also home to the occasional Zumba and yoga class, and sometimes hosts art exhibits and film nights.
The challenging 18-hole TPC Cartagena at Karibana (Manzanillo, cell tel. 317/516-1073, www.tpc.com/cartagena, greens fees US$180), about half an hour’s drive east of the city, offers gorgeous views of the Caribbean—especially from the 13th hole, which is surrounded by the sea—and the Old City. This is the first Jack Nicklaus-designed course in South America. Karibana offers stay-and-play packages with several Cartagena-area hotels, in addition to being a resort hotel itself. Greens fees are discounted if you’re a Karibana guest.
Santuario del Yoga (Cl. El Estanco del Aguardiente No. 5, Centro, tel. 5/668-5338, cell tel. 313/649-3133 or 313/819-3114, 8am-5pm daily, COP$15,000) offers yoga classes in a small studio (that’s also a shop/café) in the Centro. Some instructors are bilingual. On occasion they organize excursions (COP$120,000 pp) to the Volcán de Totumo that include canoeing through marshes, a yoga class, and a vegetarian lunch.
Vive Yoga (Cl. Ancha 44-10B, Getsemaní, cell tel. 304/528-9863) leads a free yoga class in the Parque de la Marina on Wednesdays and at the Media Luna Hostel every Tuesday. Check out their Facebook page for more information.
Seafood reigns supreme in Cartagenan cuisine. Popular fish are pargo rojo (red snapper), corvina (sea bass), dorado (mahimahi), and sierra (swordfish). Shellfish include langosta (lobster), langostinos (prawns), and chipi chipis (tiny clams). These main dishes are often accompanied by delicious coconut rice and patacones (fried plantains).
On the street, especially in the Old City, there are food and drinks on practically every corner. There’s no better refreshment than a cold agua de coco (coconut water), either straight from the fruit or out of a plastic bag. Street snacks, popular in the late morning or late afternoon, are called fritos. They include items like arepa de huevo (fried eggs in a corn arepa), carimañola (fried yucca-flour pastry with cheese and meat), and seafood empanadas. Fresh fruit, particularly mango biche (green mango served with salt and hot spices), can be a good break from the heavier fritos. For a sweet bite, head to the Portal de las Dulces, a traditional sweets market near the Torre del Reloj.
Though many restaurants in the Walled City sport Manhattan prices, an inexpensive meal is not impossible to find. There are still a few mom-and-pop restaurants featuring set (cheap!) lunches for locals who would balk at paying over COP$10,000 for their midday meal.
Popular S Santísimo (Cl. del Torno No. 39-62, tel. 5/660-1531, www.elsantisimo.com, noon-midnight daily, COP$40,000) has a religious theme, with candles and an austere interior design. The Plan Milagro (“Miracle Plan,” COP$45,000) is a prix fixe meal that’s recognized as the restaurant’s best deal.
Malanga (Plaza de San Diego No. 8-19, tel. 5/660-1472, noon-midnight daily, COP$22,000) prides itself on serving only the freshest ingredients and regional recipes. Try the mango shrimp ceviche and relax with a glass of sangria. The space is welcoming and intimate, with soft lighting, but most patrons sit outside on the colorful Plaza de San Diego.
Some of the freshest ceviche in town is served at La Cevichería (Cl. Stuart No. 7-14, tel. 5/660-1492, noon-11pm Mon.-Sat., noon-10pm Sun., COP$28,000). The restaurant has a creative menu, featuring options with mango and coconut. Its location on a quiet street makes the outdoor seating especially welcoming. Get a little taste of everything by ordering the “Miss-Cellanea” ceviche sampler. You can also pick up a T-shirt at their little shop.
S La Mulata (Cl. Quero No. 9-58, tel. 5/664-6222, noon-4pm Mon.-Sat., COP$18,000) specializes in Cartagenan cuisine. Their seafood dishes feature a perfect mound of coconut rice and a thin, crispy slice of fried plantain on top, to add some height to the presentation. Decorated with names of regional dishes, the restaurant walls provide a vocabulary lesson on Caribbean cuisine. Try the coconut lemonade.
Don Juan (Cl. del Colegio No. 34-60, tel. 5/664-3857, www.donjuancartagena.com, noon-3pm and 7pm-11pm daily, COP$40,000) is a sophisticated bistro with high ceilings where you can order seafood, steak, and pasta in an elegant setting. Try the tangy grilled sea bass on lemon risotto.
Transport yourself to the Havana of yesteryear at S La Vitrola (Cl. Baloco No. 2-01, tel. 5/664-8243, noon-3pm and 7pm-midnight daily, COP$35,000), an always-elegant, always-packed restaurant that specializes in Caribbean seafood, such as their popular tuna steak with avocado and mango, as well as pasta dishes. Immaculately dressed bartenders are a blur of constant motion as they mix innumerable mojitos. La Vitrola is pricey, but the atmosphere, with live Cuban music in the evenings, makes it worthwhile. Reservations must be made well in advance.
Each night crowds flock to the Plaza de Santo Domingo for dinner and people-watching.
Fabulous S Carmen (Hotel Ananda, Cl. del Cuartel No. 36-77, tel. 5/660-6795, www.carmenrestaurante.com.co, COP$159,000) blends Caribbean with Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine, offering a five-course tasting menu that includes wine. Impeccable service and an unforgettable meal await. Seating is indoors or out on the patio next to the pool. Reservations are necessary.
For pork ribs in hoisin sauce or a lobster sandwich, visit María (Cl. del Colegio No. 34-60, tel. 5/660-5380, www.mariacartagena.com, noon-3pm and 6:30pm-11pm Mon.-Fri., 6:30pm-11:30pm Sat., COP$42,000), a restaurant with nods to Asian cuisine. It’s a cheerful, bright space, and the only place in town where you can dine under the glow of a chandelier of ceramic pineapples.
1621 (Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara, Cl. del Curato, tel. 5/650-4741, noon-11pm daily, COP$45,000) combines French and Caribbean cuisine in the elegant atmosphere of a classic hotel that was once a 17th-century convent. Desserts are sumptuous, a perfect match for the ambience. Don’t miss their extensive wine collection.
El Gobernador by Rausch (Cl. del Sargento Mayor No. 6-87, tel. 5/642-4100, www.bastionluxuryhotel.com, noon-3pm and 7pm-11pm daily, COP$45,000) is a fancy Mediterranean-Caribbean fusion restaurant with serious chandeliers in the Bastion Luxury Hotel. Favorites on the menu include scallops with pork belly and duck in corozo sauce. For dessert, try the piña colada mousse.
Pacific and Caribbean cuisine unite at La Comunión (Cl. de las Bóvedas No. 39-116, tel. 5/645-5301, noon-10pm daily, COP$36,000), which is housed in a cheerfully decorated space. The menu features black tamales filled with octopus and squid.
El Balcón (Cl. Tumbamuertos No. 38-85, cell tel. 300/336-3876, www.elbalconcartagena.com, noon-midnight daily, COP$22,000) is a friendly place with a view in Plaza de San Diego. Get here in the early evening and enjoy a sundowner cocktail as you listen to lounge music or have a light meal like a refreshing gazpacho or their shrimp “sexviche.”
Casual and cute, Collage Charladero (Cl. Roman No. 5-47, tel. 5/660-7626, noon-midnight Mon.-Sat., COP$22,000) serves sandwiches, burgers, falafels, fresh juices (watermelon with lime and mint), and refreshing sangria in a clean and cool environment close to all the historic sites.
Simple (Hotel NH, Plaza de los Coches, tel. 5/645-5051, www.simplecartagena.com, 7am-10:30pm daily, COP$36,000) has Scandinavian interior design and an interesting menu with items like crab tacos and coconut prawns. They also serve fresh pastries at breakfast.
S Crepes & Waffles (Cl. Baloco Edificio Piñeres, Local 1, tel. 5/664-6062, www.crepesywaffles.com.co, noon-10:30pm Mon.-Thurs., noon-11:30pm Fri.-Sat., 8am-10:30pm Sun.) is a wildly successful and reliable Colombian family-style chain that specializes in savory and sweet crepes and sweet waffles. It can also satisfy your health needs with its fresh salad bar. The restaurant has a progressive policy of hiring women who are heads of their households. Besides healthy and quick meals, Crepes makes delicious ice cream, perfect on those muggy Cartagena afternoons.
D’Alex (Plaza Fernandez de Madrid, cell tel. 312/883-5925, noon-10pm daily, COP$14,000) is a cheap spot that is popular with the backpacker crowd looking for a bargain on pescado frito (fried fish), the restaurant’s specialty.
One of the best bakery-cafés in town is S Mila Pastelería (Cl. de la Iglesia No. 35-76, tel. 5/664-4607, www.mila.com.co, 8am-10:30pm daily, COP$17,000), a bright place for sandwiches, tempting desserts, and a late breakfast (served until 11am) for those who slept in too late at the hotel.
Twinkling lights and fountains create ambience on the patio of Enoteca (Cl. San Juan de Dios No. 3-39, tel. 5/664-3806, www.enoteca.com.co, noon-11:30pm daily, COP$30,000), a Cartagena pizza and pasta institution. The pizzas are better than the pasta. If you want air-conditioning more than atmosphere, grab a table inside.
For a change of pace, bright and tiny Grecia Café y Suvlaki (Cl. de las Estrella No. 4-47, cell tel. 313/707-7827, noon-10pm Mon.-Sat., COP$15,000) is Greek-run and specializes in gyros and souvlaki.
For a little curry with your shrimp, try Ganesha (Cl. del Colegio, tel. 5/660-9165, www.ganesharestaurante.com, noon-3pm and 6:30pm-11pm Tues.-Sun., COP$24,000), an authentic Indian restaurant with an extensive menu and many vegetarian options.
A homemade ice cream popsicle from S La Paleterría (Cl. de Ayos, 11am-11pm daily, COP$10,000) makes a late-afternoon stroll around the steamy city much more enjoyable. At this ice cream stand, order one of the interesting flavors such as mango biche (green mango) or Tropical Paradise, a non-dairy option packed with fruit chunks.
Satisfying comfort food such as burgers, chicken sandwiches, and corn bread are on the menu at La Teibol (Cl. Estanco del Aguardiente No. 5-94, tel. 5/660-6626, noon-11pm daily, COP$25,000), a small restaurant with a lot of heart. In addition to crafting the food, the chef also made the restaurant’s gorgeous wooden tables.
The inexpensive set lunches at vegetarian Girasoles (Cl. de los Puntales No. 37-01, tel. 5/660-2625, 11am-4pm daily, COP$12,000) are a salvation to many a vegetarian visitor. The usual lunch includes a vegetable soup to start, followed by a main protein dish accompanied by rice and vegetables. You won’t leave hungry. This informal lunch counter has many regular customers. Girasoles usually publishes the day’s menu on its Facebook page.
At S La Cocina de Pepina (Callejón Vargas, Cl. 25 No. 9A-06, Local 2, tel. 5/664-2944, noon-4pm and 6pm-10pm Tues.-Sat., noon-4pm Sun.-Mon., COP$25,000), typical dishes from across the Caribbean coast are thoughtfully reinvented. The mote de queso, a thick soup made of salty Costeño cheese and yams, gets rave reviews. It’s a cozy place in an alley near Calle del Arsenal. Make a reservation for dinner.
Unpretentious Casa de Socorro (Cl. Larga No. 8B-112, cell tel. 315/718-6666, noon-3pm and 6pm-10pm Tues.-Sat., COP$28,000) may surprise you with its Cartagenan specialties, ceviche, and limonada de coco (coconut lemonade). The loyal clientele of locals speaks for itself.
Marea by Rausch (Centro de Convenciones, Cl. 24 No. 8A-344, tel. 5/654-4205, www.mareabyrausch.com, noon-3pm and 7pm-10pm Tues.-Sat., 4pm-10pm Sun., COP$52,000) is an ultra-chic seafood restaurant that is the brainchild of the Rausches, two brother chefs from Bogotá. Specialties include tuna tartare and prawns in a coconut and saffron sauce. This restaurant has excellent views of the bay and the Torre del Reloj.
The Plaza de la Trinidad is the beating heart of happening Getsemaní, and it’s home to some swanky spots perfect for a small meal and a couple of drinks. Cool Demente (Plaza de la Trinidad, cell tel. 311/831-9839, www.demente.com.co, 4pm-2am Mon.-Sat., COP$22,000) specializes in cocktails and tapas. It’s an open-air spot with a retractable roof, where the music is funky, the cocktails are chic, and the cigars are Cuban. On the back patio is a beer garden complete with twinkling lights, serving wood-oven pizza and craft beer. It’s a fun place for an evening of small plates and drinks.
VIPs such as Colombian president Juan Manuel Santos have been known to sample the authentic Italian dishes at I Balconi (Cl. del Guerrero No. 29-146, cell tel. 311/392-0936, www.ibalconi.com, noon-10pm Sun.-Thurs., noon-midnight Fri.-Sat., COP$18,000). It gets boisterous here as the evening wears on and the wine flows. Ask for a table on one of the balconies so you can enjoy the street life from on high.
Delightful Saint Roque (Cl. Espíritu Santo No. 29-214, cell tel. 317/226-8039, Mon.-Sat. 5pm-10:30pm, COP$24,000) serves Dutch-Indonesian cuisine in an up-and-coming area of Getsemaní. Try the gado-gado vegetarian salad with peanut sauce, and choose a candlelit table on the sidewalk.
Chef Rodrigo at S Gaucha (Cl. Espiritu Santo No. 29-207, cell tel. 310/648-7942, COP$38,000) knows his bife de chorizo (New York strip) from his vacio (flank), and it’s no wonder this sophisticated restaurant with both sidewalk and indoor seating has become a Cartagena favorite. The waitstaff here is attentive.
Brasserie Montaigne (Cra. 8B No. 25-103, tel. 5/650-3030, noon-3pm and 6pm-11pm daily, COP$28,000) is a classic French restaurant in the Hotel Monterrey. Cordon bleu and crème brûlée are classics on the menu.
Elegant Arabe Internacional (Cra. 3 No. 8-83, tel. 5/665-4365, www.restaurantearabeinternacional.com, noon-3:30pm and 7pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., noon-10pm Sat.-Sun., COP$25,000) has been serving authentic Middle Eastern cuisine since 1965. It’s a popular place for the Cartagena business crowd.
Tabetai (Av. San Martín No. 5-145, cell tel. 301/680-3680, noon-11pm daily, COP$22,000) specializes in Japanese cuisine, specifically sushi. They have fun happy hours most afternoons, often with DJs on the weekend.
Riquisimo BBQ (Cra. 1 No. 1A-148, tel. 5/6550-0861, 7:30am-midnight daily, COP$18,000) looks like an American-style coffee shop, but it serves typical Cartagenan fare in addition to sandwiches and fixed-price lunches. Their generously portioned breakfasts are a specialty.
With a terrace that overlooks the bay, Verona (Cra. 20 No. 24-22, tel. 5/670-0416, noon-3pm and 6pm-11pm Mon.-Fri., 6pm-11pm Sat.-Sun., COP$24,000) serves delicious thin-crust pizzas, offers a salad bar, and caters to locals in the Manga neighborhood. After dinner, be sure to stroll the pleasant promenade along the water.
The Club de Pesca (Fuerte de San Sebastián del Pastelillo, tel. 5/660-4594, noon-11pm daily, COP$55,000) is a Cartagena classic in the old San Sebastián del Pastelillo fort, with magnificent views to the bay. It’s a favorite spot for wedding banquets, and some guests arrive in yachts. Try the jaiba gratinada (crab au gratin).
As the top tourist destination in Colombia, Cartagena boasts a large and diverse hotel sector. The Centro and Getsemaní are the top neighborhoods for small, high-end boutique hotels, often occupying well-restored colonial-era homes; many featuring rooftop terraces. Being pampered at one of these luxury options—even for just a few nights—will be a highlight of your visit.
Hostels proliferate in the city, especially in Getsemaní. The vast majority offer private rooms with air-conditioning, but these tend to go fast, so plan to reserve at least a few weeks in advance. Some hostel dorm rooms don’t have air-conditioning.
Bocagrande, with its high-rise hotels and condos, is more popular with Colombian families than with international visitors. Staying here means proximity to Bocagrande’s beaches, cheaper food options, and more space for less money. For those interested in the higher-quality beaches of Las Americas, this area two kilometers (1.25 miles) past the airport is home to many beachfront hotels. You’ll have to take a car to get to the Centro.
For a last-minute deal, visit COTELCO (Aeropuerto Rafael Nunez, tel. 5/656-9200, www.cartagena.cotelco.org, 7am-1:30am Mon.-Sat., 8am-5:30pm Sun.) at the Cartagena airport, which is generally open through the last arrival of the day. This association of hotels often has discounted prices for a variety of options in the Centro, Getsemaní, Bocagrande, and Las Americas. Look for them in the baggage arrival area.
For most international visitors, hotels should not charge IVA (sales tax). Inquire about IVA when you make your reservation, and again when you’re checking in, to be sure you aren’t improperly charged. (For more information on the regulations behind IVA, see the Essentials chapter.)
Your stay at the S Volunteer Hostel (Calle del Quero No. 9-64, tel. 5/643-4185, www.volunteerhostel.org, COP$40,000 dorm, COP$130,000 d) supports an array of social projects in underserved communities in and around Cartagena. Accommodations are basic, but comfortable and clean. One of the other perks is the chance to meet like-minded people from across the globe.
In the Old City, the Uruguayan hostel chain El Viajero (Cl. Siete Infantes No. 9-45, tel. 5/660-2598, www.elviajerohostels.com, COP$60,000 dorm, COP$230,000 d) has air-conditioned dorm rooms of various sizes. A handful of private rooms are located across the street in a more subdued environment. A decent breakfast is included in the room rate. Guests enjoy socializing at the bar.
S Casa Blue (Plaza Fernández de Madrid, Cl. del Curato No. 38-08, tel. 5/668-6501, COP$200,000 d) is within the Walled City just a few blocks from the Plaza de Santo Domingo. Previously a hostel, the rooms are private and the hotel markets itself to a budget-conscious business crowd. Its location on a popular plaza means you should expect some noise in the evenings.
A midrange option with a guesthouse feel is 3 Banderas (Cl. Cochera del Hobo No. 38-66, tel. 5/660-0160, www.hotel3banderas.com, COP$200,000 d). This hotel is housed in a 200-year-old building with two interior patios and a rooftop terrace with a tiny pool. Some of the 24 rooms are small, but it’s generally a good value. Request one of the rooms with a small balcony.
Hotel Casa Real (Cl. del Caurtel No. 36-122, tel. 5/664-7089, www.casarealhotel.com.co, COP$180,000 d) has two rooftop terraces, adequate rooms with antiques from old Cartagena, and a central location.
With just eight rooms, a pleasant rooftop terrace, and a delicious breakfast, Hotel Boutique Santo Toribio (Cl. Segunda del Badillo No. 36-87, cell tel. 317/893-6464, www.hotelsantotoribio.com, COP$350,000) checks off all the boxes for a comfortable stay in the city. Lounge music adds an air of chicness. Bikes are available for rent.
You can’t really go wrong at the S NH Urban Royal (Plaza de los Coches No. 34-10, tel. 5/645-5050, www.nh-hotels.com, COP$443,000 d), one of two locations of the NH Hotels chain in the city. Rooms are equipped with basics and most offer nice views of the always-busy Plaza de los Coches. The rooftop pool is a welcome sight after a long day—the view is quite something, too—and the included breakfast is ample.
A friendly staff is what sets Hotel Boutique Las Carretas (Cl. de las Carretas No. 34-28, tel. 5/660-4853, COP$280,000 d) apart. Rooms are spacious and some have balconies with a street view. On the rooftop you’ll find a small pool. The building itself is an architectural mishmash, and the interior design is more folksy than sophisticated.
The two-story Bóvedas de Santa Clara (Cl. del Torno No. 39-114, tel. 5/650-4464, www.bovedasdesantaclara.com, COP$580,000 d) has only 18 rooms, some of which are extremely spacious, and some with views of the water. Guests can use the Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara spa and facilities across the street. The hotel staff can organize day trips to the Hotel San Pedro Majagua in Islas del Rosario. There is no restaurant on-site, although breakfast is served.
The comfort and fabulous location of S Hotel Movich (Cl. Velez Danies No. 4-39, tel. 5/660-0133, www.movichhotels.com, COP$880,000) make it a good value, even though the rates are steep. Light floods its spacious rooms, and the rooftop terrace has a refreshing pool and a 360-degree view of the Old City. A 15-minute massage is included with your stay.
The two-story colonial-era Casa la Cartujita (Cl. del Curato No. 38-53, tel. 5/660-5248, www.casalacartujita.com, COP$725,000 d) has seven bright-white minimalist rooms and a lovely terrace, a Jacuzzi, a dipping pool, and a pleasant reading room. Rent the entire house and you’ll have a personal chef at your service.
The result of a meticulous restoration of three adjacent 17th-century houses, the S Casa San Agustín (Cl. de la Universidad No. 36-44, tel. 5/681-0000, www.hotelcasasanagustin.com, COP$1,500,000 d) is easily one of the most luxurious addresses in Cartagena, if not all of Colombia. Among the amenities are an inviting pool on the main floor, complimentary afternoon tea in the library, a terrace with a fabulous view, spacious rooms with exposed wood-beamed ceilings, a cozy bar, and the original stone walls. This hotel is a member of Leading Hotels of the World.
Good taste reigns at Anandá (Cl. del Cuartel No. 36-77, tel. 5/664-4452, COP$960,000 d), whose name means “maximum state of happiness” in Hindi. It’s certainly close to the truth at this gorgeous, meticulously restored 16th-century home. There are 23 rooms of three different styles and a pool, Jacuzzi, and daybeds on the rooftop. Anandá is home to the restaurant Carmen.
The 89-room S Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa (Plaza de Santa Teresa, tel. 5/664-9494, www.hotelcharlestonsantateresa.com, COP$740,000 d) is steps away from the wall. It was originally built in the 17th century as a convent for Carmelita nuns. In the 1980s it was converted into a hotel. There are two wings to this historic hotel, a colonial one and a Republican-era one dating from the early 20th century. Rooms are nothing short of luxurious, with accommodations in the colonial wing a notch above the more modern ones. The two inner courtyards are lovely, with astounding and ever-changing floral displays. Concierges can arrange any excursion you’d like. The hotel’s many amenities—four restaurants (one run by renowned chef Harry Sasson), a rooftop pool, a spa, and a gym—ensure a relaxing stay.
One Old City classic is in San Diego. The 122-room Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara (Cl. del Torno No. 39-29, tel. 5/650-4700, www.sofitel.com, COP$780,000 d) is synonymous with class and luxury, though it once served as a convent. The stunning colonial courtyard features tropical plants, a fountain, and modern sculptures. The gorgeous chapel is available for weddings. Be sure to request a tour of the hotel from a staff member to see remnants of the convent. Make time for drinks at the on-site bar El Coro. The pool area is large; during low season, nonguests can obtain day passes.
Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara
From the rooftop terrace of S Hotel LM (Cl. de la Mantilla No. 3-56, tel. 5/664-9100, www.hotel-lm.com, COP$637,000 d), guests enjoy spectacular views of old Cartagena, including the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver. This luxury hotel has seven spacious rooms and an “interactive” kitchen, where guests can participate in food preparation. Rooms are decorated with original artwork. Hotel LM is just around the corner from the Plaza de Santo Domingo.
For an unforgettable experience, rent a fully furnished luxury apartment in a colonial house—or rent the whole house. The website of rental agency This Is Cartagena (Cl. Sargento Mayor No. 6-107, tel. 5/660-9128, www.ticartagena.com) makes it easy with a search engine, detailed descriptions and photos, and an easy reservation process. The staff at their office near Iglesia de Santo Toribio is attentive. Colonial houses in the Centro start at around US$1,250 per night, but they can also hook you up with a hotel room or an apartment.
Australian-run S Mamallena (Cl. de la Media Luna No. 10-47, tel. 5/670-0499, www.hostelmamallenacartagena.com, COP$35,000 dorm, COP$100,000 d) is a small, attitude-free, friendly place where guests linger over beers at the small bar in front. Air-conditioning is available 24 hours a day, and pancakes are served for breakfast. Tours to area attractions can be arranged. There’s a resident dog, cat, and a couple of tortoises.
Colorful and cheerful Papaya (Cl. del Pozo No. 28-36, tel. 5/643-7340, COP$40,000 dorm) only has dorm accommodations and is seconds away from the Plaza Trinidad scene.
The Shangri-la of backpacker accommodations in Cartagena is the famous S Media Luna Hostel (Cl. de la Media Luna No. 10-46, tel. 5/664-3423, www.medialunahostel.com, COP$35,000 dorm, COP$120,000 d). Located on the edge of Getsemaní, it’s a high-energy kind of place with multicultural socializing (and flirting) centered on the small pool in the courtyard. If you’re looking to break out of your shell, this may be the place. It has a capacity of over 100 guests with just a couple of private rooms (book early for those). Note that the vast majority of rooms don’t have air-conditioning, which may be a challenge for those unused to the Cartagena heat. The staff organizes lots of activities and bikes are available to rent. There’s also an attached burrito stand. Then there’s the bar: On Wednesday nights, show up around 9pm for their famous Visa por un Sueño party.
S Casa Relax (Calle del Pozo No. 25-105, cell tel. 310/443-1505, www.cartagenarelax.com, COP$170,000 d) feels like a hostel for adults without the discomfort of dorm accommodations. Here you can make use of the kitchen, have a cocktail by the groovy pool, and socialize a bit. There are 12 rooms.
Low-key Casa Villa Colonial (Cl. de la Media Luna No. 10-89, tel. 5/664-5421, www.casavillacolonial.com.co, COP$185,000 d) is a midrange option for those interested in staying close to the Old City. The rooms are basic, with wood furniture and tiled floors. Its rooftop terrace has a pool.
Style is the thing at S Casa Lola (Cl. del Guerrero No. 29-108, tel. 5/664-1538, www.casalola.com.co, COP$374,000 d), designed and managed by a Spanish couple who were some of the first hoteliers in Getsemaní. The hotel, spread over two buildings (one colonial and one Republican-era), has 10 rooms featuring furniture and art from all over the world. Its location near Café Havana means there may be street noise on weekend nights. Casa Lola also offers design-oriented apartments (US$250-450) for rent in the Centro that sleep 4-10 people.
Hotel Monterrey (Cra. 8B No. 25-100, tel. 5/650-3030, www.hotelmonterrey.com.co, COP$290,000) is a classic hotel with a huge rooftop terrace that houses a small pool, perfect for soaking up the views of the Old City. It’s on a busy street across from the convention center, but traffic noise isn’t an issue. Breakfast is served in a cute interior courtyard.
Relaxed Hostal Las Velas (Cl. 1A No. 1-52, cell tel. 300/831-0159, www.hostallasvelas.com, COP$35,000 dorm, COP$230,000 d) opened in 2015. Its location just steps from the beach draws travelers who can’t get enough kitesurfing, surfing, and windsurfing. This medium-sized house has one dorm room with eight beds and two private rooms (one with an en suite bathroom). The rooms don’t have much flair, but this is a friendly spot in an area not frequented by tourists.
Small Barahona 446 (Cra. 2 No. 4-46, tel. 5/665-6144, www.hotelesbarahona.com, COP$180,000 d) is a bargain spot in the middle of Bocagrande, about a five-minute walk from the beach. The rooms are decent, but don’t expect a view. Light sleepers may want to use earplugs, as noise from common areas can be a nuisance.
The old classic in town is the Hotel Caribe (Cra. 1 No. 2-87, tel. 5/650-1160, www.hotelcaribe.com, COP$480,000 d). These swanky digs, comprising three large buildings, are next to the beach, and they even have a beach club exclusively for guests. The nicest feature here is the garden complete with resident parrots and deer. The 360 medium-sized rooms have views of the sea or the garden. Most visitors enjoy lounging by the pools and drinking a fruity cocktail.
For a no-surprises brand-name hotel experience, the Hilton Cartagena (Av. Almirante Brion, tel. 5/665-0660, www.hilton.com, COP$460,000 d) won’t fail you. It’s at the tip of Bocagrande, isolated from the crowds, and has multiple pools and tennis courts as well as a gym. Rooms feature all-marble bathrooms. President Obama stayed here during the 2012 Summit of the Americas.
In addition to locations at the airport and at the cruise ship terminal, there are city-run tourist information kiosks (no phone, 9am-noon and 1pm-6pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.) near the Torre del Reloj and an air-conditioned main office in the historic Casa de Marquez Plaza de la Aduana (tel. 5/660-1583, 9am-noon and 1pm-6pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.).
In case of an emergency, call the police at 112. For medical emergencies, call an ambulance by dialing 125 or head to Hospital Universitario (Cl. 29 No. 50-50, tel. 5/669-7308, 24 hours daily).
The post office, 4-72, has a branch in the Walled City (Cl. de la Moneda No. 7-94, tel. 5/670-0102, 8am-noon and 2pm-5:30pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-12:30pm Sat.). It costs COP$2,000 for postage to the United States and Canada. This branch has a small exhibition space with old postage stamps on display.
Beer & Laundry (Hotel Boutique La Artilleria, Cl. Pacoa No. 10-101, Local 2, Getsemaní, http://beerandlaundry.wix.com/beerandlaundry, 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat.) is a friendly full-service laundry service that will wash your clothes, and you can hang out and have a beer or slice of pizza while you wait.
The public library, Banco de la República Biblioteca Bartolome Calvo (Cl. de la Inquisición No. 3-44, tel. 5/660-0777, 8:30am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-1pm Sat.), is located in a grandiose building facing the Parque de Bolívar. It offers reading rooms and has an exhibition space.
Cartagena offers many opportunities to take group and individual Spanish classes. Many hostels have local Spanish tutors or can recommend a school or private teacher.
You may want to try out a class before committing to several days’ instruction. One recommended school is Lengua Nativa Spanish School (cell tel. 304/573-1027, individual class US$15). Nueva Lengua (Calle del Pozo No. 25-95, Getsemaní, tel. 5/660-1736) has a solid track record, with locations in various cities. A 15-hour week of classes costs US$200.
Centro Catalina (Cl. Siete Infantes No. 9-21, San Diego, cell tel. 310/761-2157, www.centrocatalina.com) offers small-group classes in a house in the San Diego district.
The tourist sectors of the Old City and Bocagrande do not accurately portray the living conditions of the many Cartagenans who live in poverty. Wages are low for many in the service industry and some residential areas lack basic services, such as running water. Several private nonprofit organizations are working to break the cycle of poverty.
The Fundación por la Educación Multidimensional (FEM, Cl. del Quero No. 9-64, Centro, tel. 5/643-4185, www.femcolombia.org) strives to make an impact on budding entrepreneurs by pairing them with volunteers who have expertise in business, architecture, community development, and other vocations. FEM generally seeks longer commitments of multiple weeks from its volunteers, but some short-term opportunities are occasionally offered.
The Fundación La Vecina (La Boquilla, www.fundacionlavecina.com) helps low-income children living in La Boquilla. It was started by a Dutch woman, Nathalie Rietman. The foundation has short-term positions open during school vacations (January, July, and December), in addition to long-term (three months and up) opportunities.
The Fundación Juan Felipe Gómez (Cl. 31 No. 91-80, Ternera, tel. 5/661-0937, www.juanfe.org) is the brainchild of Catalina Escobar, a Colombian businesswoman who was nominated as CNN Hero of the Year in 2012 for her tireless efforts to help at-risk teenage mothers. Both short- and long-term volunteers are invited to share their skills with the young women at this impressive center. You can take a public bus or a taxi (20 minutes) from the Centro to the fundación.
Founded by Colombian pop singer Shakira in the late 1990s, the Fundación Pies Descalzos (Pie de la Popa, www.fundacionpiesdescalzos.com) builds schools, including the stunning Colegio Lomas del Peyé to the northeast of town, which it also operates. See their website for volunteer opportunities as well as fundraising needs.
Cartagena Paws (www.cartagenapaws.com) rescues abandoned dogs, and can always use kind dog walkers.
Cartagena’s Aeropuerto Internacional Rafael Núñez (CTG, tel. 5/656-9202, www.sacsa.com.co) is located to the east of the city, about a 12-minute cab ride from Cartagena. Taxis from the airport to the Old City are reliable and regulated. The current fixed rate is COP$15,000.
Delta (www.delta.com) is the latest U.S. carrier to launch nonstop service to Cartagena, offering flights from Atlanta. JetBlue (www.jetblue.com) and Avianca (www.avianca.com) operate flights between New York-JFK and Cartagena. Nonstop flights from Florida are offered by Spirit Airlines (www.spirit.com) via Fort Lauderdale; Avianca has a nonstop out of Miami. Copa (www.copaair.com) serves Cartagena from its hub in Panama City, Panama. Charter carrier Air Transat (www.airtransat.com) flies nonstop from Montreal to Cartagena from December to March.
The main national carriers, Avianca and LATAM Airlines (www.latam.com), operate many flights each day to Cartagena from various Colombian cities. VivaColombia (www.vivacolombia.co) often offers inexpensive fares between Cartagena and Medellín, Bogotá, Cali, and Pereira. ADA (www.ada-aero.com) serves the city with flights from Medellín, Montería, and Cúcuta. EasyFly (www.easyfly.com.co) has a nonstop from Bucaramanga.
Regular bus service connects Cartagena with all major and coastal cities. The Terminal de Transportes (Diag. 56 No. 57-236, tel. 5/663-0454) is a 20- to 30-minute cab ride from the Centro. Expect to pay about COP$20,000 for the trip.
The Terminal de Transportes offers bus service to Bogotá, Medellín, Cali, and other interior cities. However, if you are making your way along the coast, it’s quicker and easier to get to Santa Marta or Barranquilla by taking one of the fast busetas (large vans) that regularly serve the main Caribbean cities. Marsol (Cra. 2A No. 43-11, tel. 5/656-0302, www.transportesmarsol.net) and Berlinas (Cl. 46C No. 3-80, tel. 5/693-0006, www.berlinasdelfonce.com) are the top choices and have pickup sites near the Centro in the Marbella neighborhood. Marsol even offers door-to-door service (puerta-puerta). The last buseta leaves Cartagena around 8pm. It’s a decent option to travel after dark—the roads are good and it’s safe—as the roadside scenery isn’t that impressive, there’s less traffic, and you may as well spend the remaining daylight hours enjoying a mojito in the Old City.
Thanks to its narrow streets, scarce parking, and heavy traffic, Cartagena is not a particularly car-friendly city.
Consider renting a car or motorcycle for overland travel. Hertz and National, as well as local companies, have pickup and drop-off locations at the airport. This could be a good option if you are planning on taking your time getting to know the Caribbean coast or are continuing onward to Colombia’s interior. The main road to Barranquilla is mostly four lanes, but shrinks to two lanes farther on to Santa Marta.
Cartagena is a major port of call for cruise ships from across the globe, bringing around 350,000 visitors each year. Entry into the Bahía de Cartagena is a dramatic one, as the ships pass through ruins of old Spanish forts.
The city is a living museum, and the best way to get to know it is by walking its narrow streets, getting lost, and finding one’s way again. Be sure to bring some sun protection and water—the sticky midday heat can be sizzling. If you take an organized walking tour, you will likely be hounded by hawkers selling Colombian souvenirs.
Take a cab from the port to the Torre del Reloj, one of the main entrances to historic Cartagena. Pop into a museum and a grandiose colonial-era church, enjoy a delicious meal at one of the many fine restaurants, and cap it all off with a walk and a drink on the muralla (wall) facing the Caribbean Sea.
Walking is the best way to get around the Old City, Getsemaní, and Bocagrande.
For short hops between neighborhoods, cabs are quick and easy. Taxis here do not have meters, so it’s possible you won’t get the local rate. Before hopping in a cab, ask a local or two the standard rate. From the Old City to Bocagrande, expect to pay around COP$6,000. A ride to the airport will cost COP$15,000, and a trip to the beaches at Las Americas will be COP$12,000. Tipping is not customary. Ride-sharing services such as Uber (www.uber.com), Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com), and Tappsi (www.tappsi.co) have arrived in Cartagena, which may help minimize anxiety or confusion about taxi fares.
It may seem overwhelming at first, but taking a public bus is a cheap way to get around. To hop on a bus to Bocagrande from the Old City, walk down to Avenida Santander along the sea and flag down just about any bus you see (or look for a sign in the window that reads “Bocagrande”). The ride will set you back COP$1,800. There are a few options for getting off: As you board, tell the bus driver where you would like to be let off; belt out “¡Parada!” as you approach your destination; or discreetly exit behind someone else. On the main road (Carrera 11) just to the east of the walls, facing the Monumento India Catalina, is a nonstop parade of buses loading and unloading. From here you can get to the Castillo de San Felipe, the Mercado de Bazurto, or the bus terminal, for the same low price of COP$1,800.
Launched in December 2015 after more than 10 years in development, the TransCaribe bus system (www.transcaribe.gov.co) employs organized stations (rather than standard bus stops). It caters mostly to residents, but may be useful for visitors interested in traveling out of the Centro to the city’s southern neighborhoods. Some of the major stops are at Muelle de la Bodeguita, La Matuna, Chambacú (Castillo de San Felipe), and Mercado de Bazurto.
The bright-orange bus stations are located along Avenida Venezuela, a thoroughfare between the Centro and La Matuna that extends into the southern neighborhoods. Expect to pay under COP$2,000 for the comfortable ride.
Bocachica, which means “Small Mouth,” is one of two entrances to the Bahía de Cartagena. It is at the southern end of the bay. The other, much wider entrance is Bocagrande (“Big Mouth”), more familiar as the peninsula southwest of the Old City. In 1640, when three galleons sank at Bocagrande and blocked that passage, the Spaniards decided to fortify the more easily defensible Bocachica.
The Fuerte de San Fernando (Isla Tierrabomba, tel. 5/655-0211 or 5/655-0277, www.patrimoniodecartagena.com, 8am-6pm daily, COP$9,000) and Batería de San José are two forts at either side of Bocachica, the first line of defense. The Fuerte de San Fernando, at the southern tip of the island of Tierrabomba, is a particularly impressive example of 18th-century military architecture. It is very well preserved and you can still see the barracks, kitchen, storerooms, and chapel enclosed within the massive fortifications. The low-lying Batería de San José is a much more modest affair, and can be visited with a ticket for Fuerte de San Fernando.
The only way to get to Bocachica is by one of the lanchas (fast boats, COP$7,000) that depart from the Muelle de los Pegasos, the tourist port in Cartagena near the Torre del Reloj. The 45-minute trip through the bay provides interesting views of Cartagena and the port. The waits between departures can be long, so bring sunscreen and something to do.
In Bocachica, there are a few small, informal restaurants where you can eat fried fish, coconut rice, and patacones (fried plantains) and drink a cold beer.
South of Cartagena is the elongated island of Barú, which is separated from the mainland by the Canal del Dique, an artificial waterway built in 1650 to connect Cartagena with the Río Magdalena. On Barú lies Playa Blanca, a Caribbean paradise of idyllic, white-sand beaches bordering warm blue waters. West of Barú and about 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) southwest of Cartagena is the archipelago Islas del Rosario, part of the much larger Parque Nacional Natural Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo. On Barú and the Islas del Rosario, traditional Afro-Colombian communities with rich cultural heritages share space with the vacation houses of Colombia’s rich and famous.
Barú is home to several beautiful beaches. With the exception of Playa Blanca, most of these are inaccessible to the general public. The 25 small coral islands of the Islas del Rosario are a marine wonderland. The once-spectacular coral reefs off of Barú and surrounding the archipelago have been badly damaged by the increased flow of freshwater from the Canal del Dique, which has been dredged in recent years.
Quiet Isla Grande in the Islas del Rosario has a handful of hotels and a community group, Nativos Activos, run by Afro-Colombian locals who rent bikes and equipment and can organize tours and other activities. They are always available at Hotel San Pedro de Majagua. Expect to pay COP$20,000 for a bike rental.
This Is Cartagena (Cl. Sargento Mayor No. 6-107, Oficina 104, Centro, tel. 5/660-9128, www.ticartagena.com, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri.), based out of the Old City, offers fantastic tours to the islands. A standard day trip (US$70) features a day at a fab beach resort, lunch, and snorkeling or kayaking, and includes hotel pickup and drop-off. For an unforgettable time, upgrade to the Island Hopping in Style tour, which offers the same activities—from your own personal yacht. This option ranges US$600-6,000, depending on the yacht.
If you are willing to pay more, there are more upscale day tours to the islas. One is a day trip to the luxurious beachside Hotel San Pedro de Majagua (Cartagena office: Cl. del Torno No. 39-114, tel. 5/650-4464, www.hotelmajagua.com, day trip COP$173,000) on Isla Grande. They take care of transportation from the Muelle de Marina Santa Cruz in Manga (boats leave at 9am, return at 3:30pm daily). The price also includes a seafood lunch and a visit to an aquarium. For an unforgettable sunset experience, try the Neon Sunset Tour on a paddleboard with LED lights, perfect for illuminating bioluminescent plankton. You can also spend the night at this comfortable hotel (COP$350,000 d including transportation).
To enjoy fresh seafood and fabulous cocktails under the sun, Pescador de Colores (Km. 3 past Pasacaballos Bridge, Barú, cell tel. 315/394-2374, www.elpescadordecolores.com, 11:30am-5:30pm Wed.-Mon., COP$40,000) is the place to be on Barú. This swanky beach lounge specializes in Euro-Caribbean cuisine, but the biggest attraction is hanging out on a beach bed.
Best known for its location in Cartagena, Media Luna Hostel (Playa Bobo, Isla Barú, cell tel. 313/536-3146, www.medialunahostel.com, COP$50,000 dorm) also owns a chill beachside hostel in Barú, which consists of five two-story thatched-roof cabañas. Each cabaña has four beds and a bathroom and can be either a private room or a dorm, depending on your preference. They will take care of round-trip transportation (COP$60,000) from their Getsemaní location, where pickup is at 9am daily.
Sport Barú (Ensenada del Cholón, Km. 26, Isla Barú, cell tel. 314/506-6520, www.sportbaru.com, COP$800,000 d) is a relaxing beach resort nestled among the mangroves on the quiet side of the Cholón lagoon. There are three cabins with multiple rooms each for rent; the older ones with thatched roofs have more charm. All of them are comfortable, but the Wi-Fi is iffy. A visit here usually includes lounging on the beach in front of the hotel or at Playa Azul, a quick boat ride away. For those staying more than a day, the food can get a little repetitive (lots of fried fish and coconut rice). You can also take a day trip here (COP$145,000), which includes transportation, lunch, and an excursion to Playa Azul.
In a quiet section on the north side of Isla Grande, Eco Hotel Las Palmeras (Isla Grande, cell tel. 314/584-7358, COP$75,000 d) is a laid-back and no-frills beachside hostel that has lots of charm, thanks mainly to the nice people who run it. Don’t expect luxury here: A shower requires scooping water from a bucket with a coconut shell.
Mompox was founded in 1540 on the eastern edge of a large island between two branches of the Río Magdalena (the Brazo de Loba and the Brazo Mompox). This lovely town was an opulent center of trade, connecting the interior of the country with Cartagena during the colonial era. But then the mighty river changed its course in the late 18th century and Mompox’s importance steadily declined, never to return.
Mompox is what Cartagena looked like before it became a tourist destination, and it’s hard to deny the melancholic charm this oppressively hot town retains even today. The attraction here is strolling the wide streets, admiring the whitewashed houses decorated with intricate iron latticework, and watching the river flow by. In 1995, due to its architectural importance, the town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The town is spread out along the muddy Magdalena, and the river is its raison d’être. It does not have a central plaza, but rather three squares, each with a church, facing the river. It is believed that each of these squares is on the location of a former indigenous settlement. From south to north, they are Plaza de Santa Bárbara, Plaza de la Concepción (also known as Plaza Mayor), and Plaza de San Francisco. Three main streets run parallel to the river: Calle de la Albarrada (which corresponds to Carrera 1) facing the river; the Calle Real del Medio, Mompox’s main street, one block west of the river; and the Calle de Atrás (literally, the “street behind”).
There are two historic churches worth visiting in Mompox. The riverfront Iglesia de Santa Bárbara (Cl. de la Albarrada and Cl. 14, mass 6pm Fri.-Sun.) was built in 1630. The facade is painted a striking yellow, with colorful floral decorations. It has an unusual baroque octagonal tower with a balcony wrapping around it. Inside is a magnificent gilded altar. The church extends from the Plaza de Santa Bárbara to the Plaza de San Francisco. The second noteworthy church is the Iglesia de San Agustín (Cl. Real del Medio and Cl. de la Albarrada, mass 4pm daily), which houses the Santo Sepulcro, a gilded reproduction of Christ’s tomb. The churches are only open during mass times. Guests of the Casa Amarilla (Cl. de la Albarrada No. 13-59, tel. 5/685-6326 or cell tel. 301/362-7065, www.lacasaamaraillamompos.com) can make a request with the hotel to take a quick peek inside the churches.
Iglesia de Santa Bárbara
The only museum in town, which keeps irregular hours, is the Museo Cultural de Arte Religioso (Cl. Real del Medio No. 17-07, tel. 5/685-6074, 9am-noon and 3pm-4pm Tues. and Thurs.-Fri., 9am-noon Sat.-Mon., COP$2,000). It’s home to displays of gold- and silverwork from the colonial era. Mompox silver- and goldsmiths made a name for themselves with their intricate filigree jewelry.
Another interesting sight is the Piedra de Bolívar (Cl. de la Albarrada and Cl. 17), a river-facing monument with a stone slab that lists all the visits Simón Bolívar made to Mompox.
Mompox’s atmospheric 19th-century Cementerio Municipal (Cl. 18 and Cra. 4, 8am-noon and 2pm-5pm daily, free) is well worth a detour. The cemetery houses the tomb of Afro-Colombian poet Candelario Obeso and General Hermógenes Maza, who fought beside Simón Bolívar. The cemetery is also known for the resident cats that frolic among the graves.
Semana Santa (Holy Week), which occurs during late March or April, is the most important celebration in Mompox. Visitors from all over Colombia converge on the town to watch its religious processions and attend concerts. You’ll have to book months in advance to get a hotel room during that time.
The Mompox Jazz Festival (early Oct.) has become the biggest show in town, with performances by international artists such as Tito Puente selling out far in advance.
Mompox is known in Colombia for its intricate gold filigree jewelry. Look for the Joyería Filimompox (Cl. 23 No. 3-23, tel. 5/685-6604 or cell tel. 313/548-2322, hours vary), where the staff will explain their craft to you during your visit to their workshop. They accept credit cards.
At the Escuela Taller de Artes y Oficios de Santa Cruz de Mompox (Claustro de San Agustín, Cl. 16 No. 1A-57, tel. 5/685-5204, hours vary), young people learn traditional handicrafts. Visitors are welcome to drop by and watch these artisans at work. Inside, there’s an interior courtyard, an inviting place to linger for a while.
During low season, restaurant options in Mompox become scarce. With sufficient notice, most hotels will prepare meals. Belgian-run El Fuerte (Cra. 1 No. 12-163, tel. 5/685-6762, 6pm-9pm Fri.-Sun., COP$20,000) is the best dining option in town. It’s mostly Italian cuisine, and the pizza and pasta are done right. The Comedor Costeño (Cl. de la Albarrada No. 18-45, tel. 5/685-5263, 7am-5pm daily, COP$12,000) serves comida típica (Colombian fare) overlooking the Magdalena.
On the Plaza de la Concepción, Khalilieh (Cra. 1A No. 17A-54, tel. 5/685-5978, noon-9pm daily, COP$14,000) serves Lebanese food and grilled meats.
For a drink, look for the Cava de los Ángeles (Cl. de la Albarrada, cell tel. 301/533-1780, 4pm-midnight daily).
During high season, inquire about the planchon sunset cruise (three hours, COP$30,000), where passengers enjoy a drink on the river, floating on a wooden barge. For more information, contact Carmen Garrido (cell tel. 310/606-4632) or ask at the Casa Amarilla.
Bioma Hotel Boutique (Cl. Real del Medio No. 18-59, tel. 5/685-6733 or cell tel. 315/308-6365, www.bioma.co, COP$190,000 d) may be one of the most comfortable options in town, as it offers 12 air-conditioned rooms, a dipping pool, and good food.
The S Casa Amarilla (Cl. de la Albarrada No. 13-59, tel. 5/685-6326 or cell tel. 301/362-7065, www.lacasaamarillamompos.com, COP$25,000 dorm, COP$100,000 d), owned by a British travel writer, is another excellent choice, with accommodations for backpackers as well as private rooms for those seeking more comfort. After a careful restoration, the Casa Amarilla added a luxurious colonial house, the Casa de la Concepción (COP$1,500,000), which has four bedrooms and two interior patio gardens; the second-story balcony provides a lovely view to the plaza below. Best of all, it has a pool.
Casa España (Cl. Real del Medio, tel. 5/685-5373 or cell tel. 313/513-6946, www.hotelcasaespanamompox.com, COP$180,000 d) is a guesthouse with 16 basic rooms, most with two double beds, and an interior courtyard with plenty of rocking chairs in which to relax.
Most visitors arrive in Mompox from Cartagena, and there are several ways to make the journey.
There is one direct bus that leaves from Cartagena’s Terminal de Transportes (Diag. 57 No. 24-236, tel. 5/663-0454) at 6:30am daily. The ride takes eight hours and costs COP$50,000. More comfortable is a door-to-door service with a company like Toto Express (cell tel. 310/707-0838, COP$75,000), which takes six hours.
The fastest way involves a van, a boat, and a taxi: Take a van (COP$40,000 pp, 3.5 hours) from outside the Terminal de Transportes in Cartagena to Magangué, a port on the Magdalena; there hop on a chalupa boat that will take you to a spot called Bodega de Mompox (COP$7,000, 30 min.); and from there take a shared taxi or mototaxi (COP$15,000, 30 min.) to Mompox.
Satena (www.satena.com) offers seasonal flights, especially during Semana Santa, from Bogotá to Mompox’s small airport. The flight takes less than an hour.
