view of Providencia from Santa Catalina
Providencia and Santa Catalina
S PARQUE NACIONAL NATURAL OLD PROVIDENCE MCBEAN LAGOON
sailboat race at Bahía Manzanillo.
The beaches of San Andrés and Providencia are pristine and secluded. The waters are an inviting turquoise. Seafood, particularly fresh crab, is always on the menu, accompanied by cold beer.
The San Andrés Archipelago is made up of seven atolls and three major islands: San Andrés, Providencia, and Santa Catalina. San Andrés is 775 kilometers (492 miles) northeast of the Colombian mainland and only 191 kilometers (119 miles) east of Nicaragua. The islands are small: San Andrés, the largest island, has an area of 26 square kilometers (10 square miles), Providencia just 17 square kilometers (6.5 square miles), and Santa Catalina, attached to Providencia by a photogenic pedestrian bridge, is 1 square kilometer (247 acres) in size.
San Andrés is popular with rowdy Colombian vacationers escaping the chilly climes of the Andes. Here, sunbathing, snorkeling, diving, and relaxing are always the order of the day.
Once serving as a base for notorious English pirate Henry Morgan, less developed Providencia—or Old Providence, as English-speaking locals call it—and its tiny tagalong neighbor of Santa Catalina are places to experience how the Caribbean used to be. Here you’ll enjoy small bungalow-style hotels, home-cooked creole food, and picturesque palm-lined beaches.
On both islands English and a creole patois are spoken, although Spanish is rapidly taking over in San Andrés and the tourism sector.
Little is known of the early history of San Andrés, Providencia, and Santa Catalina. In pre-Columbian times, the Miskito people of Central America visited the islands but never settled there.
In 1631, 100 Puritans from England founded a colony on Providence Island (the English name for Providencia). Rather than establishing a self-sustaining agricultural community, the colonists imported slaves and established a plantation-based economy. Spaniards attacked the islands in 1641 put an end to the Puritan experiment. Over the next 50 years, the island was fought over by Spain and England.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Jardín Botánico: This well-tended botanical garden sits on a bluff overlooking the turquoise sea. A walk among the native trees, plants, and flowers provides a pleasant break from the beach (click here).
S Snorkeling and Diving off of San Andrés: Dozens of dive sites among thriving coral formations and steep ocean walls keep divers blissfully busy for days (click here).
S Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon: Paddle through the mangrove lagoons and snorkel offshore among tropical fish at this small national park (click here).
S Beaches on Providencia: Undertake the tough fieldwork of determining your favorite palm-lined Providencia beach. Your investigations could take several days (click here).
S The Peak: From the highest point on Providencia, hikers enjoy 360-degree vistas from the jungle toward the deep-blue sea (click here).
In 1821, the archipelago became part of the newly independent Republic of Gran Colombia. During the 19th century, an influx of immigrants from the British Caribbean included many former slaves, who formed the beginnings of the islander community. (These native islanders are sometimes referred to as Raizales, though they themselves don’t use this name, which was given to them by mainland Colombians.)
Colombia exerted greater power over the islands in the early 20th century, even forbidding the use of English in official business. In 1953, dictator Gustavo Rojas Pinilla declared San Andrés a free port. This led to a massive influx of outsiders, and the English-speaking native islanders became a minority, losing control of much of their land. Providence, which was not declared a free-trade zone, was spared this onslaught.
The 1991 Colombian constitution gave the islands some autonomy and put an end to immigration from the mainland. Providencia enacted strict zoning and land-ownership regulations that have preserved the islander identity and community.
In recent decades, Nicaragua has contested Colombian jurisdiction over the islands. In 2001, the International Court of Justice reaffirmed Colombian sovereignty over the islands but left the maritime border unresolved. In 2012, the court decided that 70,000 square kilometers (43,500 square miles) of sea surrounding San Andrés that had previously been Colombian were in fact Nicaraguan. For islanders this meant losing traditional fishing areas. The court decision cannot be appealed, but Colombian president Juan Manuel Santos has declared that his country will not abide by the decision until Nicaragua ensures that native islanders have access to their traditional fishing areas.
The archipelago covers 280,000 square kilometers (174,000 square miles) of marine area. It includes three major islands, seven atolls, and some well-preserved coral reefs, particularly the barrier reef surrounding Providencia and Santa Catalina, home to more than 80 species of coral and 200 species of fish.
The islands were once covered by forest. Though much has been cleared, especially in San Andrés, significant tracts of forest remain, with cedars, cotton trees, stinkingtoes, birch gums, and other indigenous species. The abundance of fruit-bearing trees and plants includes breadfruit, tamarind, mango, and guava. There are several large, well-preserved mangrove lagoons, notably the McBean Lagoon in Providencia.
The islands support a wide range of reptiles, including snakes, iguanas, geckos, and lizards. Other land animals include crabs, especially the black and shankey crabs, which migrate to and from the sea to spawn, protected by army personnel who block traffic on Providencia’s roads during the migration. Four species of protected sea turtles nest here. Approximately 100 bird species have been identified on the islands, but only 18 are resident. The island’s only nonhuman land mammals are bats. Dolphins and whales are sighted occasionally.
Despite environmental degradation, especially in San Andrés, the archipelago remains one of the best-preserved corners of the Caribbean. In 2000, the 300,000 square kilometers (186,400 square miles) of the Seaflower Biosphere Reserve became part of UNESCO’s “Man and the Biosphere” program, which aims to preserve both biological and ethnic diversity, combining conservation with sustainable use by local communities.
San Andrés is a possible long-weekend getaway from mainland Colombia; visiting both islands can be accomplished in five nights, which allows for a relaxed pace. If you want to do some serious diving, plan for at least a week—say three days in San Andrés and four days in Providencia. Wait 24 hours after diving to get in an airplane, due to pressurization concerns.
A visit to Providencia from San Andrés can be a budget buster, but it is well worth the expense if you are interested in getting away from it all. Getting to Providencia involves an extra flight, and hotels and restaurants are generally more expensive than in San Andrés (which itself is more expensive than the mainland).
High tourist seasons on both islands are during Christmas and New Year’s. It may be hard to find a hotel from mid-December until mid-January. During this time, throngs of Colombian families and a growing number of Brazilians and Argentinians take over San Andrés. Also popular are Semana Santa (Holy Week) and school vacations, which fall between mid-June and August. May and September are quiet. Because it’s more difficult to reach, Providencia rarely feels crowded.
The average daily temperature is 27°C (81°F). During the dry season (January-April), water rationing can be necessary, especially in Providencia, where it rains as little as five days per month. The rainy season extends from June until November, when it can rain 20-24 days per month. October is the rainiest month and is also when hurricanes occasionally churn up the warm Caribbean waters. March and April are the best months for snorkeling and diving because the waters are calm. December and January are windy, making snorkeling and diving challenging. Strong winds can prompt airlines to cancel flights into and out of Providencia.
Surrounded by a large barrier reef, San Andrés is Colombia’s Caribbean playground. Here the waters are seven shades of blue, the sandy beaches are white, and coco locos, the official island cocktail, are always served. Days here are spent lazing on the beach, island-hopping, snorkeling and diving, and enjoying fresh seafood. For many Colombians, the deals at the many duty-free stores are too good to pass up—and one reason why they visit the island in the first place.
San Andrés has a population of about 75,000, about two-thirds of whom are of mainland Colombian origin. The rest are English-and creole-speaking native islanders, many of whom are descended from Jamaican slaves. There is also a community of “Turcos” or “Arabes,” whose roots can be traced to mostly Lebanon and Syria. Their presence on the island is not an insignificant one, as demonstrated by a brilliantly white modern mosque that stands prominently in the commercial center.
The island of San Andrés resembles a seahorse floating gently eastward in the western Caribbean Sea. It is only about 13 kilometers (8 miles) long from top to bottom and 3 kilometers (2 miles) wide, and has a total area of 26 square kilometers (10 square miles). The Circunvalar ring road more or less circles the entire island.
The “town” of San Andrés is usually called the Centro or the North End. It is in the snout of the seahorse, in the northeast. This is the center of activity and where the majority of the island’s restaurants, hotels, and shops (nearly all of which are owned and operated by mainland Colombians) are found. About 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) of the main drag here, Avenida Colombia, is the paseo peatonal or malecón. Officially known as the Spratt Bight Pathway, it’s a delightful pedestrian promenade along the Spratt Bight beach. About two kilometers (1.25 miles) northwest of the Centro is the airport. The west side is quieter, with a handful of points of interest, hotels, and restaurants. The coastline on the west side is all coral; there are no beaches. At the southernmost point of the island is the Hoyo Soplador blowhole. Continuing counterclockwise, the town of San Luis extends along the southeastern edge of the island. This area has some good beaches, hotels, and restaurants, and is much more laid-back than the Centro.
The middle part of the island, called La Loma (The Hill), is the highest point on the island. The main point of reference here is the stately white First Baptist Church. This area is home to the largest community of native islanders.
Other than the botanical gardens, the majority of sights in San Andrés are tourist traps. The attractions here are the island’s innate pleasures—sun, sand, water, seafood, and tropical drinks.
For many, the first stop in San Andrés is the Spratt Bight Pathway (Centro). This pedestrian walkway is the liveliest stretch on the island. It’s lined with restaurants, hotels, and souvenir shops on one side and the island’s most popular beach, Spratt Bight, on the other. In the distance you can spot the palm trees on Johnny Cay.
Extending over eight hectares (20 acres) of wilderness, the Jardín Botánico (Vía Harmony Hill in front of Hotel Sol Caribe Campo, tel. 8/513-3390, 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-4pm Sat.-Sun., COP$5,000) is easily the most peaceful place on San Andrés. In this lovely botanical garden run by the Universidad Nacional, you can stroll along several paths and view trees and plants that grow in San Andrés. Of particular interest are the many fruit trees, which include breadfruit, and a section on medicinal plants. From the five-story lookout tower, you can take in an impressive view of the island and its barrier reefs. Guided tours, included in the price of admission, are available (but not required), and take about an hour.
breadfruit, Jardín Botánico
Casa Museo Isleña (Km. 5 Av. Circunvalar, tel. 8/512-3419, 8:30am-5pm daily, COP$8,000) is a reconstruction of a typical island wooden house that provides a glimpse into island life in the 19th century. After a required guided tour (15 minutes), your cheerful young guide will tell you “now let’s dance!” Reggae dancing is a rather strange component of the museum experience, but then again, it’s hard to say no. Those smiling guides are a persuasive lot.
It would seem that all caves hidden along the coasts of San Andrés and Providencia are reputed to hold hidden treasures stashed away by notorious pirates. On the western side of San Andrés is Cueva de Morgan (Morgan’s Cave, tel. 8/513-2946, 9am-6pm daily, COP$10,000), a sort of theme park where Welsh privateer/pirate Captain Henry Morgan allegedly stored some of his loot (but there’s no evidence to prove this). There isn’t much to see at the cave itself. That’s why the park owners added on some reconstructions of traditional wooden island cabins that serve as mini-museums on island culture and ways of life. You visit these on a guided tour that is included in the cost. One is an art gallery where local dancers often perform to calypso beats. Also on the premises is the Coconut Museum, which is a house made out of coconuts. All in all, it’s a tourist trap.
At Hoyo Soplador on the island’s southern tip, the attraction is a blowhole in the coral where, when the tide and winds are right, water sprays up, reaching heights of more than 10 meters. It can’t compare to Old Faithful, but then again, can you order a coco loco in Yellowstone? There is no fee to see the hole, but vendors will strongly encourage visitors to purchase something.
The white, clapboard First Baptist Church (La Loma, no phone, services 7:30pm Thurs. and 10:30am Sun., COP$3,000 donation requested) was built in 1844 and rebuilt before the turn of the 20th century using wood imported from Alabama. It was the first Baptist church established on the island. A guide will tell you the history of the church and allow you to climb up to the bell tower for a commanding view of the island. The Sunday worship service can last several hours. Church members dress up for services, and you’ll often see a smattering of tourists in the balcony on Sundays. The church is an excellent place to hear gospel music.
view from the steeple of the First Baptist Church
Job Saas, a native islander, operates Paradise Farm (Cove Seaside, Km. 11 Polly Higgs Rd., tel. 8/513-0798 or cell tel. 315/770-3904, donations accepted). Saas decided to transform the former standard family farm into one with a focus on conservation and the environment. Here you can see animals, such as iguanas and turtles, and plants that are threatened due to overdevelopment on San Andrés. Saas uses the same farming techniques that his family has applied for decades. It is a great initiative on an island where environmental awareness is lacking. Saas welcomes visitors to the farm, and, if you are lucky, you can hear his band play.
Managed by a Rastafarian community, the Big Pond (La Loma, no phone, no set visiting hours, donations requested) is a pond on the top of La Loma, home to a few domesticated alligators. When called, they will swim close to the shore, where they are fed a diet of white bread. The alligators live in harmony with turtles, and herons watch the action from a tree nearby. You can order a beer at the bar where reggae music blares from speakers. There is no set entry fee, but young men hanging out at the entrance (who are not associated with Big Pond) will insist on a payment. It’s expected that you’ll pay, but you can negotiate—don’t pay more than COP$10,000 per person.
The nightlife scene on San Andrés is big and brash. The most popular nightspots, near Spratt Bight, cater to visiting Colombians. Clubs generally are open from Thursday to Saturday during off-season but every night during high season. Things get cranking around 10pm. The perennial top discos are Coco Loco (Av. Colombia, tel. 8/513-1047), Extasis (Hotel Sol Caribe, Ave. Colón No. 2-77, tel. 8/512-3043), and Blue Deep (Sunrise Hotel).
A relaxing alternative to the club scene is stargazing with beer in hand at Bar de Kela (San Luis, no phone, 3pm-midnight daily), a rustic but charming bar that plays reggae, in front of the San Luis Village hotel.
Ask any Colombian about San Andrés and they will tell you that one of the top things to do here is to go shopping for cheap and duty-free goods. (In fact, Bogotá’s shopping district known for its affordable wares, San Andresito, is named in honor of the island.) There are numerous duty-free shops in the Centro, where deals can be had on booze, perfume, watches, and the like. La Riviera is the best known of these. It has multiple locations close to the Spratt Bight walkway.
Casa BazArte (San Luis, cell tel. 317/375-4779, 9am-6pm daily) has local handicrafts like papier-mâché (a typical island handicraft), paintings, and wallets made of coconut fiber, among more common Colombian wares. Luly, the owner, can hook you up with local artisans if you’re interested. The shop is located in a protected heritage house that’s over 90 years old; its cheerful paint job makes it hard to miss.
San Andrés is surrounded by a well-preserved coral reef teeming with marine life that makes it a diver’s and snorkeler’s paradise. On the eastern edge is the windward barrier, 15 kilometers (9.3 miles) long and 60-80 meters (200-260 feet) wide, with significant live coral communities. Beyond the reef, the shelf ends abruptly with a vertical wall that drops hundreds of meters. To the west, the windward barrier protects a large marine lagoon that has sea grass cover. The reef on the western, leeward side is a bit less well preserved due to tourism and boat traffic, but it also has beautiful patches of coral and significant marine life. In all, the waters surrounding San Andrés include more than 40 species of corals and 131 species of fish. It is common to see large schools of brightly colored jacks, tangs, grunts, and snapper, as well as barracudas, groupers, and parrot fish. Other marine creatures include turtles, stingrays, moray eels, octopus, squid, and lobster.
A unique feature of San Andrés is that the dives are very close to shore, which means a 10- to 30-minute boat ride maximum. The water is warm and has excellent visibility year-round. The best conditions for diving occur January to May, with stronger winds in June and July. Popular dive sites are The Pyramids, a shallow 4-meter (13-foot) dive with striking anemones and fish; Nirvana, a reef at about 15 meters (50 feet) that is teeming with marine life; Trampa Tortuga, a reef at about 15 meters (50 feet) with great visibility; and Blue Wall, on the eastern edge of the windward barrier, which starts at 6 meters (20 feet) and drops to 60 meters (200 feet). It contains magnificent corals and large tube sponges.
Most dive operators also offer short (three hours) introductory courses for beginners, costing around COP$155,000 per person, which allow you to do an easy dive without being certified. There are also many opportunities to do full introductory and advanced courses with certification. A three-day open-water certification course typically costs around COP$800,000.
Highly recommended diving operators on San Andrés include Banda (Hotel Lord Pierre, tel. 8/513-1080, www.bandadiveshop.com, two dives COP$185,000, open-water course COP$900,000), where the friendly owner Gloria will help with everything, and German-run Karibik (Av. Newball 1-248, Edificio Galeón, tel. 8/512-0101 or cell tel. 318/863-9352, www.karibikdiver.com, two dives COP$170,000), which prides itself on its dive safety. Sharky Surf Shop (Sunset Hotel, Km. 13 Carretera Circunvalar, tel. 8/512-0651, www.sharkydiveshop.com) is another reputable agency, whose offerings include a four- to five-day open-water course (COP$800,000) and a mini-course for beginners (COP$140,000). Night diving trips can be arranged by most dive shops for experienced divers.
Samuel Raigosa, better known as Chamey, is the kitesurfing guru of San Andrés, and the staff at Chamey’s Náutica (Km. 4 Vía San Luis, tel. 8/513-2077, cell tel. 317/752-4965) are experts on kitesurfing. A one-hour class costs COP$70,000.
Supported by environmental agencies, Ecofiwi Turismo Ecológico (Vía San Luis, Mango Tree sector, cell tel. 316/567-4988 or 316/624-3396, www.sanandresecotourism.com, ecofiwi@gmail.com, 9am-4pm daily, COP$70,000 pp) offers two-hour kayak tours of the mangroves in the Old Point Regional Mangrove Park led by local guides. The kayaks are completely transparent, providing kayakers with up-close views of sealife such as upside-down jellyfish, sea cucumbers, sea grass beds, and also birds such as frigate birds, pelicans, herons, and migratory birds. Snorkeling is also part of the tour (equipment included).
Some of the best beaches on the island include Spratt Bight, near the Centro in front of the pedestrian walkway; San Luis, near Chammey Marina; Cocoplum; Bahía Sonora (near Rocky Cay) beaches; and the Parque Regional Johnny Cay. Out of all of these, the beaches on Johnny Cay, the island off Spratt Bight, are some of the most popular. During peak tourist seasons, on weekends, and on holidays, they get very crowded.
To get to Johnny Cay, you must take a lancha (boat) from Spratt Bight on a quick 15-minute ride. There are always boats (owned by individuals, not organized tour companies) at the ready at Spratt Bight. To arrange a trip, your negotiating skills will be put to the test. Hiring an individual boat can cost up to COP$200,000. The inexpensive option is to take a day tour (COP$20,000). These leave from Spratt Bight by 9:30am every day of the year, returning at around 4pm. In the late afternoon, Johnny Cay clears out, but you can stay until almost 6pm when the last boats leave. It’s nice to be one of the last visitors on the island as the sun begins its descent. There are no accommodations options on the island, but there are coco loco stands aplenty and some restaurants serving the usual fried fish fare. While there, take a walk around the entire island, where flocks of birds are likely the only company you’ll have. It takes about 15 minutes.
On the eastern side of San Andrés, the beaches at San Luis and Rocky Cay have easy access and great food options. It’s possible to wade through the shallow waters to Rocky Cay.
A popular activity in San Andrés is to take a day tour of some swimming spots just off of the mainland. A standard day tour costs COP$20,000 and leaves at around 9am daily (with return trips departing at 1:30pm and 3:30pm). Tours include a 1.5-hour stop at El Acuario/La Piscina/Haynes Cay, where you can wade and swim in waters described as “seven shades of blue.” Here, a common attraction is swimming with manta rays, though it’s best to avoid participating. On busy days, the rays are handled constantly, being lifted out of the water for snapshots with smiling tourists. They are fed a steady diet of white sandwich bread. The rest of the day is spent on Johnny Cay, where you can buy lunch and drinks, and rent snorkeling equipment. There is no need for a guide here, so resist offers to pay for one. Coonative Brothers (Spratt Bight Beach, tel. 8/512-3522) offers these tours, as do many of the larger hotels.
Parque Regional Johnny Cay
Local boaters affiliated with Coonative Brothers also offer day tours with more stops, including a visit to the San Andrés mangroves for COP$60,000 per person. There is a minimum of 10 passengers for these tours. Private tours can cost up to COP$200,000, depending on your negotiating skills. Inquire at the Coonative Brothers’ beach kiosk.
divers near San Andrés
To swim with sharks and manta rays in unbelievable crystalline waters, you can take a day tour to the exotic Cayo Bolívar (COP$170,000) that’s about an hour by boat from San Andrés. The tours leaves at 8am and returns at 5pm. Lunch and drinks are provided. Coonative Brothers also organizes this trip, which, due to the relatively steep cost, attracts fewer customers.
Another option to get out on the water is to take a glass-bottom boat tour with San Andrés Unlimited (Tom Hooker Rd. No. 8-75, South End, tel. 8/513-0035 or 8/513-0129, cell tel. 316/889-8701 or 310/625-2938, www.sanandresultd.com). During this tour, the boat makes several stops at coral reefs, sunken ships, and exotic islands. You’ll be able to get in the water and snorkel several times to observe sealife. The nearly two-hour tour costs around COP$45,000 per person.
Seafood is on every menu in every restaurant in San Andrés. Fish, lobster, crab, and conch are likely to come from the waters off of San Andrés and Providencia. However, langostinos (prawns) and camarones (shrimp) often come from either the Pacific or from the Cartagena area on the mainland. A Caribbean specialty you’ll likely find only on San Andrés, Providencia, and Jamaica is rondón (rundown). It is a filling stew that has fish or conch, pig’s tail, dumplings, yucca, and other ingredients slow-cooked in coconut milk. All restaurants are beach casual, and most of the larger ones accept credit cards. Service is often laid-back. On Sundays, local women sell food, like fried fish cakes, on the beach in San Luis.
North of downtown, the blue-collar Fisherman’s Place (Cra. 9 No. 1-10 Spratt Bight, tel. 8/512-2774, noon-4pm daily, COP$20,000) is a restaurant run by a cooperative of local fishers. Overlooking the water, it’s also close to the airport runway. Try the rondón or the lobster.
Ask anyone in town to recommend the best seafood place on the island and a solid majority will mention S La Regatta (tel. 8/512-0437, www.restaurantelaregatta.com, noon-11pm daily, COP$40,000), next to the Club Náutico. It is open-air and juts out onto the water. For a sampling of the finest of San Andrés seafood, try their Fiesta Náutica, which includes lobster tails, prawns, and crab, or go for the tesoros del mar, a filling seafood stew. The restaurant is festively decorated. Reservations are a good idea.
Just far enough from the Centro for a little peace and quiet, Niko’s Seafood Restaurant (Av. Colombia No. 1-93, tel. 8/512-7535, 11am-11pm daily, COP$30,000) is what a family-run seafood place should be: over the water, not fancy-schmancy, and no lounge music. The house specialties are lobster and coconut lemonade.
The Grog (Rocky Cay, Cocoplum Hotel, tel. 8/513-3244 or cell tel. 311/232-3247, 10am-6pm Wed.-Sun., COP$25,000) is everything you’d expect in a Caribbean seafood restaurant. In an idyllic location on the beach and steps from the water, this is a great spot for a grilled fish lunch on a lazy afternoon.
Although the namesake for Miss Celia (Av. Newball and Av. Raizal, tel. 8/513-1062 or 8/512-6495, restaurantemisscelia@gmail.com, noon-10pm daily, COP$30,000) passed away not too long ago, the restaurant continues on in this colorful spot. Located in front of the Club Náutico, Miss Celia is surrounded by flower gardens, and the sounds of local music add to the atmosphere. The restaurant recommends only ordering rondón (seafood, pig tail, and yam stew) at lunchtime, as it’s a heavy dish. There are also various rice dishes, some with shrimp, some vegetarian; for dessert there’s homemade ice cream.
From its simple beachside cabañas, it might surprise you that S Donde Francesca (El Pirata Beach, San Luis, tel. 8/513-0163, cell tel. 318/616-8547, restaurantedondefrancesca@gmail.com, 10am-6pm daily, COP$35,000) serves gourmet food. The varied menu includes langosta tempura (tempura lobster, COP$50,000) and pulpo reducción al balsámico (balsamic octopus, COP$34,000). The drinks are good, too, like gin cocktails and margaritas, all made from non-bottled ingredients. This may explain why folks arrive for lunch at 11am and don’t leave until sundown.
In-the-know locals make a weekly visit to S Restaurante Lidia (Ground Rd. No. 64-65, San Luis, tel. 8/513-2192) a ritual. It’s only open on Sundays and on holiday Mondays. This place gets great reviews from local foodies. Lidia’s crab empanadas are recommended.
The Restaurante Punta Sur (Km. 15.8, South End, tel. 8/513-0003, cell tel. 312/449-0301, 10am-6pm daily, COP$30,000) is close to the Hoyo Soplador. Sitting on the terrace when the waves come crashing in, it feels like you might be taken out to sea. Bring a bathing suit and chill out in their small pool overlooking the sea. Arroz con camarones (rice with shrimp) and grilled lobster are the most popular menu items at this well-liked spot on the southern tip of the island.
Mr. Panino (Edificio Bread Fruit Local 106-7, tel. 8/512-3481 or 8/512-0549, 10:30am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-4pm Sun., COP$30,000) is a reliable, somewhat upscale Italian restaurant, popular at both lunch and dinner, but more pleasant in the evening. There is typically a set lunch menu of Colombian fare. It’s nice to sit on the high wooden tables in the back. Try their risotto con langostinos, a prawn risotto that’s a generous plate to share. Service can be chilly.
S Gourmet Shop (Av. Newball in front of Parque de la Barracuda, tel. 8/512-9843, cell tel. 315/770-0140, noon-11pm Mon.-Sat., 6pm-11pm Sun., COP$30,000) is an excellent choice for a break from seafood. The salads, pasta, and other dishes are good, and on every table there is a big bottle of imported spicy chili sauce. With gourmet food items and wine for sale along the walls, and thousands of empty wine bottles decorating the ceiling, it’s a cozy place. For something quick, like a slice of pizza, you can try the hole-in-the-wall Gourmet Shop To Go (Av. Newball in front of Parque de la Barracuda, tel. 8/512-9843, 11am-3pm daily, COP$15,000) around the corner in the same building.
Margherita e Carbonara (Av. Colombia No. 1-93, tel. 8/512-1050, 11am-11pm daily, COP$30,000) gets packed at night during high season due to its prized location near the big hotels and nightclubs. Stick with the pasta and pizza at this boisterous family-style place.
It’s a rarity to find vegetarian options in San Andrés, but New Dawn Paradise (Vía Tom Hooker No. 1-107, tel. 8/513-0015, cell tel. 314/444-9418, 11am-3pm Sun.-Fri., COP$15,000) delivers. This simple restaurant is in the modest home of super-friendly Enaida Veloza, who serves vegetarian hamburgers, salads, and the like, as well as baked goods. Many of the vegetables come from her prosperous organic garden.
Part of the Casablanca Hotel, the groovy turquoise Sea Watch Caffé (Av. Colombia, 7am-11pm daily, COP$18,000) is as close as it comes in Colombia to a New York-style coffee shop. Here you can have a leisurely breakfast as you watch the tourists file by on the walkway out front. They also offer pizza, hamburgers, ceviche, pasta, and desserts.
From the outside, S Coffee Break (Av. Colombia No. 3-59, in front of Parque de la Barracuda, tel. 8/512-1275, www.coffeebreak.com.co, 7am-11pm daily) often appears empty or even closed. But when you go inside, it’s almost always packed with visitors and locals alike sipping on Vietnamese coffee, munching on nachos, or smearing cream cheese on their toasted bagels. Customers here take their time (likely because of the air-conditioning).
A bakery/café popular with locals and visitors alike is Bread Fruit (Av. Francisco Newball No. 4-169, outside the Sunrise Hotel, tel. 8/512-6044, 7:30am-8:30pm Mon.-Sat.), named after the breadfruit tree, which is typical to the area. This solid breakfast spot offers outdoor seating and table service.
Miss Carmen is a familiar face on the Spratt Bight walkway, where she has been selling her homemade empanadas, ceviche, and cakes for years. Her stand doesn’t really have a name, but you can call it La Mesa Grande de Carmen (Av. Colombia pathway).
On this island where tourism is king, lodging options are plentiful, except during high season (mid-December to mid-January, Holy Week, and, to a lesser extent, during school vacations from June to July). Top-end hotels and low-end hostels are not as common as mid- to upper-range all-inclusive hotels.
Most visitors stay on or near the beach on the eastern side of the island, including in quiet San Luis. From here, you can hop on public transportation or hail a cab if you want to go to town, or rent a motorbike, golf cart, jeep (mulita), or bicycle. The busy downtown (Centro) of San Andrés can feel claustrophobic, but you’ll always be within walking distance of restaurants and services, and you can often find some good deals in this area. Waterfront hotels here have pools, not beaches. Stay in the north beyond the airport if you prefer more seclusion but still want to be close to the action in the city center.
The western side of the island has coral coastline instead of beaches, and the few hotels cater mostly to divers, so this side feels more isolated.
In the interior of the island are numerous posadas nativas (native guesthouses), owned and operated by locals, many of whom have deep roots on the island. Staying at a posada nativa is the best way to get to know the local culture. Don’t expect fancy amenities.
Renting an apartment offers advantages for those looking for more space, privacy, or the use of a kitchen. Sol & Mar (tel. 8/512-5834 or cell tel. 317/665-0273, www.solymarislas.com, two-bedroom apartment COP$450,000 per night) has several fully furnished two-and three-bedroom options, including in quiet Sarie Bay, near the airport. Some of the apartments are in large complexes with access to a swimming pool.
The Colombian all-inclusive chain Decameron has several properties on the island. Decameron offers optional transportation to the island. Guests can dine at other Decameron locations on the island, but may have to make reservations in advance, which can be a hassle. Wi-Fi is available at an additional cost. The newest, largest, and arguably best Decameron property is the Royal Decameron Isleño (Av. Colón Cl. 3 No. 6-106, tel. 8/513-4343, www.decameron.co, COP$660,000 d), with a fantastic location on a quiet stretch along Spratt Bight. During high season, it gets crowded here, but during the off-season, you may just have the facilities, with open-air dining and a pool, practically to yourself.
Decameron Los Delfines (Av. Colombia No. 1B-86, tel. 8/512-7816 or Bogotá tel. 1/628-0000, www.decameron.co, COP$600,000 d), located in town and on the water, is a hotel geared toward couples. It has 39 comfortable rooms and a pool. This is the “boutique” Decameron hotel, but that may be a generous description of this property.
Although it may look retro, blindingly white Hotel Casablanca (Av. Colombia No. 3-59, tel. 8/512-4115, www.hotelcasablancasanandres.com, COP$480,000 d) is a large hotel facing the Spratt Bight Parkway. Of the 91 rooms it offers, 10 are cabañas. There is a small pool and, more importantly, a pool bar, Coco’s. The hotel has three on-site restaurants. Casablanca gets mixed reviews, but is one of the better options along Spratt Bight.
In the North End, boutique hotel S Casa Harb (Cl. 11 No. 10-83, tel. 8/512-6348, www.casaharb.com, COP$880,000 d) is by far the most luxurious place to stay in San Andrés. The six suites, lobby, dining area, and spa are thoughtfully decorated with fantastic art and furniture from Morocco to Malaysia, personally chosen by owner Jak Harb. The fabulous on-site restaurant is open to the public (but call first).
On an unassuming street in a quiet neighborhood two blocks from the beach, S Hostal Mar y Mar (Av. Colombia No. 1-32, Sarie Bay, cell tel. 317/783-6420, www.hostalmarymar.com, COP$190,000 d) offers 10 clean and comfortable rooms. Noise from airplanes may be a nuisance in the mornings for some.
The small hotels in the busy downtown are far more reasonably priced than those with a view to the sea and are just a few blocks away. The most popular choice for backpackers is the five-floor El Viajero (Av. 20 de Julio No. 3A-122, tel. 8/512-7497, www.elviajerohostels.com, COP$60,000 dorm, COP$250,000 d), which is part of an Uruguayan chain. It has several air-conditioned gender-separated dorms, as well as private rooms. The top-floor bar serves cold beer and assorted rum drinks, and there are several common areas with wireless Internet and computers. A small breakfast is included, and a kitchen is provided for guest use. Staff aren’t overly friendly, but they can arrange excursions.
It’s surprising just how peaceful the Posada Mary May (Av. 20 de Julio No. 3-74, tel. 8/512-5669, COP$60,000-110,000 d) is. Every morning you can pick up a cup of coffee in the lovely courtyard that is shaded by a huge avocado tree. On the downside, beds (usually three per room) are on the soft side in the spacious rooms, wireless Internet is sporadic, and in general the place could use an update. Around the corner, Cli’s Place (Av. 20 de Julio No. 3-47, tel. 8/512-0591, luciamhj@hotmail.com, COP$160,000 d), owned by Cleotilde Henry, has four double rooms in the main house as well as a cabaña that accommodates seven people. You will feel at home here.
Brightly colored Cocoplum Hotel (Vía San Luis No. 43-49, tel. 8/513-2121, www.cocoplumhotel.com, COP$350,000 d) in the San Luis area has the most important feature for a beach hotel: It’s actually on the beach, with rooms that are steps from the water. The rooms are generally fine, the food is OK, and service can be chilly.
S Ground Road Native Place (Circunvalar No. 54-88, before the health clinic, tel. 8/513-3887 or cell tel. 313/776-6036, edupeterson1@hotmail.com, COP$50,000 pp) is a comfortable posada nativa with five spacious rooms and some large apartments, with air-conditioning and wireless Internet. The posada is in the home of friendly Edula and George Peterson and is just a three-minute walk to the beach. The neighborhood is not close to many tourist amenities, but there are always public buses on the main road out front.
Tucked away on a quiet lane is S Villa Verde (Vía Tom Hooker 1A-24, cell tel. 315/770-0785, temporadasanandres@yahoo.es), a charming guesthouse that offers rooms in the owner’s home, an inviting pool surrounded by trees, and camping on the lush grass.
About five minutes to the beach, Posada Buganvilla (Vía Tom Hooker No. 3-41, cell tel. 315/303-5474 or 317/804-1952, posadabuganvilla@gmail.com, COP$170,000 d) is a cheerfully colored house in a quiet location, with four air-conditioned rooms, tile floors, and shared bathrooms. The guesthouse offers bikes for rent.
This neighborhood, home to the island’s highest point—hence the name La Loma (The Hill)—is situated in the interior of the island and is almost completely inhabited by English-speaking native islanders, some of whom run posadas nativas. A fine option is S Coconut Paradise Lodge (Vía La Loma, Claymount No. 50-05, tel. 8/513-2926 or cell tel. 301/543-2344, oldm26@hotmail.com, COP$55,000 pp with breakfast), a beautiful turn-of-the-20th-century wooden home with just four rooms. It’s close to the botanical gardens and the San Luis beaches. Try for the top-floor room, which has great views and a refreshing breeze. Across the street is Caribbean Refuge (Vía La Loma, tel. 8/523-2878 or cell tel. 313/823-3587, COP$50,000 pp) run by Clemencia Livingston. It’s a spotless, modern house (though lacking in charm), and Clemencia is a very gracious host.
For those interested in diving, S Sunset Hotel (Km. 13 Circunvalar, cell tel. 318/523-2286, www.sunsethotelspa.com, COP$300,000 d), on the quiet west side of the island, is a great option. It has 16 bright and basic rooms that surround a small pool. While there is no beach, the hotel’s dive shop, Sharky’s, offers diving lessons and organizes diving excursions. You can go snorkeling in the waters across the street. Weeklong diving packages are a good option. Great sunsets are included at no extra cost. You can also rent bikes here.
A tourist office (Av. Newball, tel. 8/513-0801, 8am-noon and 2pm-6pm daily) is located between downtown and San Luis, across from Club Náutico. Tourism bureau staff are on hand at a tourist information kiosk (intersection of Av. Colombia and Av. 20 de Julio, 8am-7pm daily).
There is a small branch of Universidad Nacional (National University, San Luis, tel. 8/513-3310 or 8/513-3311, 8am-noon and 2pm-6pm Mon.-Fri.) here, where the library is open to the public. Anyone is welcome to work or read there.
San Andrés’s Aeropuerto Gustavo Rojas Pinillas (ADZ) is very close to many hotels. Cabs to the airport cost COP$10,000. San Andrés is served by all the major Colombian airlines, with most options from Bogotá and Medellín. There are nonstop flights from Cartagena on VivaColombia (www.vivacolombia.co) and Copa (www.copaair.com); Copa also offers a nonstop flight from Barranquilla. Air Transat (www.airtransat.com) operates charter flights between Canada and San Andrés on a seasonal basis.
Public buses serve the entire island; rides cost about COP$2,000 each way. To get to San Luis, flag down a bus from the Parque de la Barracuda just south of the Centro.
Renting a car is possible, but parking is scarce, distances are not far, and, more importantly, there are more fun options than driving a car. Most visitors rent heavy-duty, gas-powered golf carts referred to as mulas (literally, mules). Millennium Rent A Car (Av. Newball, Parque de la Barracuda, tel. 8/512-3114, 10am-6pm daily) rents standard golf carts (COP$70,000 day) and mulas (COP$150,000 day). Rent A Car Esmeralda (Av. Colombia, in front of Buxo del Caribe, tel. 8/513-1170 or cell tel. 315/303-7037, 10am-6pm daily) offers similar prices. Although you can rent both golf carts and mulas for multiple days, their use is prohibited after 6pm.
Rent a bike at Bicycle Rental Shop (Cra. 1B, Sector Punta Hansa, in front of Edificio Hansa Reef, cell tel. 318/328-1790 or 321/242-9328, 8am-6pm daily, COP$45,000/day).
Secluded palm-lined beaches, gorgeous turquoise Caribbean waters, mellow locals, fresh seafood, and rum drinks make it easy to become smitten with Providencia.
Located about 90 kilometers (56 miles) north of San Andrés, these islands are the easygoing cousins of that hyperactive island. Of volcanic origin, Providencia and Santa Catalina are older islands than San Andrés, and are smaller in area and population than it, having a total area of about 18 square kilometers (7 square miles) and a population of only 5,000. Only 300 people live on minuscule Santa Catalina, an island known as the “Island of Treasures” and which was once home to an English fort.
The two islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina combined are about seven kilometers long and four kilometers wide (4 miles by 2.5 miles). A ring road encircles the entire island of Providencia. The harbor/downtown area of Providencia is called Santa Isabel and is the center of island activity. Adjacent to this is Santa Catalina.
Other settlements on the island are usually referred to by the names of their beaches or bays. The main ones are on the western side of the island: Manchineel Bay (Bahía Manzanillo), on the southern end, which has some excellent beaches; Southwest Bay (Bahía Suroeste); and Freshwater Bay (Bahía Aguadulce), home to most of the island’s hotels and restaurants. Smoothwater Bay (Bahía Aguamansa), on the southeastern edge of the island, is more remote. Smoothwater is adjacent to Bottom House (Casa Baja), which is more residential. Maracaibo is on the northeast part of the island, between Santa Isabel and the airport. In the middle of the island is its highest point, The Peak.
The Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon (office Jones Point, east of airport, tel. 8/514-8885 or 8/514-9003, www.parquesnacionales.gov.co, oldprovidence@parquesnacionales.gov.co, 9am-5pm daily, COP$14,000 non-Colombians, COP$8,500 Colombians, COP$4,000 students) is a small national park on the northeast coast of the island. It occupies about 1,485 hectares/3,670 acres (1,390 hectares/3,435 acres of that is in the sea). Here you can observe five different ecosystems: coral reefs, sea grass beds, mangroves, dry tropical forests, and volcanic keys.
kayaking through Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon
Crab Cay (Cayo Cangrejo) is one of the main attractions of the park, and it’s a convenient spot for some splashing about in the incredibly clear, warm waters. This is a great place for some easy snorkeling, and, in addition to tropical fish, you may see manta rays or sea turtles. A short five-minute nature path takes you to the top of the island. A snack bar on Crab Cay sells water and snacks like ceviche. It is open every day until around 1pm.
Boat tours, organized by all hotels and dive shops, motor around the coast of Providencia, stopping at beaches and at Crab Cay for snorkeling or swimming. These tours depart the hotels at around 9am each morning and cost about COP$35,000 per person. Once you disembark at Crab Cay, you’ll have to pay the park entry fee of COP$14,000. Following the stop at Crab Cay, the boats go to Southwest Bay for a seafood lunch, not included in the price of the tour.
Otherwise you can hire a boat for yourself at around COP$350,000 total. Upon arrival at the island, you’ll be required to pay the park entry fee. All hotels can arrange this more exclusive option.
The park’s Iron Wood Hill Trail is a three-kilometer (1.8-mile) round-trip nature trail along which you can explore the tropical dry forest landscape, and will see different types of lizards, birds, and flora. There are nice views from here of the coastline. This path is less popular than the hike to The Peak, but many find it more beautiful. Tourists are encouraged to go with a local guide arranged by the park’s office (Jones Point, east of airport, tel. 8/514-8885, 8/514-9003, www.parquesnacionales.gov.co, 8am-12:30pm and 2pm-6pm daily, COP$25,000 pp plus park entry fee). But the trail is straightforward, and most visitors simply head off on their own. Be sure to pay the park entry fee before leaving.
An additional activity is to hire a kayak and paddle to Crab Cay or through the park’s McBean Lagoon mangroves. Passing through the mangroves you’ll enter the Oyster’s Creek Lagoon, where you’ll see several species of birds, like blue and white herons and pelicans, as well as crabs, fish, and some unusual jellyfish. This is an interesting trip. Try to go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as the sun can be brutal. Kayaks can be rented at the Posada Coco Bay (Maracaibo sector on the northeastern side of the island, tel. 8/514-8226, cell tel. 311/804-0373, www.posadacocobay.com, COP$30,000). A kayak with a guide costs COP$50,000, and for snorkeling equipment tack on another COP$10,000.
Lighthouse Providencia (Hoy’s Hill, cell tel. 313/380-5866 or 318/758-1804, www.lighthouseprovidencia.com, 5pm-9pm Mon.-Sat.) is a cultural center/café that’s worth a stop. They host a range of cultural activities, including art exhibitions and film showings, all with an environmental bent, including a film on the famous black crab migration that brings the island to a virtual standstill.
Bob Marley never seems to fall out of fashion at Roland Roots Bar (Manchineel Bay, tel. 8/514-8417, hours vary). This spot beneath the coconut palms is the perfect place to spend a lazy, sunny day in Providencia. Or go at night, when you can order your rum drink to go and walk to the beach and stargaze, or hang out by a bonfire. On Sunday afternoons, it’s a popular spot for locals. Roland’s competition is Richard’s Place on the beach in Southwest Bay. You can broaden your Caribbean music horizons here with reggae roots, rocksteady, ska calypso, ragamuffin, and soca dub—but more often than not, it’s Marley on the sound system. Both bars serve fried fish during the day.
In early January of each year (usually a Saturday), the Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon organizes the colorful Festival del Chub (tel. 8/514-8885 or 8/514-9003, Jan.). Chub is a plentiful but not very popular fish (it can have a strong aroma). The purpose of the festival is to encourage fishers and consumers to choose chub instead of other fish like red snapper, the stocks of which have been depleted throughout the Caribbean. The festival is held at Rocky Point (Punta Rocosa), where chub is widely eaten. In addition to serving dishes like chub burgers and chub ceviche, there is also a sailing race from Southwest Bay to Manzanillo. It’s fun to hang out at Roland Roots Bar (Manchineel Bay, tel. 8/514-8417) in the morning to watch the sailors ready their boats for the race.
Between April and August each year is when the black crab migration takes place. This species of crab lives in the mountainous interior of the island for most of the year, but as the rainy season begins (usually April or May), thousands of the female crabs, carrying up to 120,000 eggs each, make an arduous journey to the sea to deposit their eggs. The migration peaks during nighttime hours, so watch your step. More crabs can be seen on the western side of the island. A second migration occurs a few weeks later, when the young crabs make their trip from the sea up to the mountain. During both migrations, the main road on the island may be closed—enforced by military personnel—as a means of protecting the crabs from vehicles.
Kalaloo Point Café-Boutique (near Halley View lookout, eastern side of the island, tel. 8/514-8592 or cell tel. 317/387-6448, 10am-8pm Mon.-Sat.) is a cute shop and café in a wooden house that sells tropical dresses by a Colombian designer and various knickknacks. There’s also a small library.
The best beaches on Providencia can be found generally on the western side of the island. From Manchineel Bay (Bahía Manzanillo) on the southern end to Allan or Almond Bay in the northwest, they are each worth exploring, if you have the time. On these beaches, the waters are calm, the sand golden, and there’s always a refreshing breeze.
Manchineel Bay (Bahía Manzanillo), home to Roland Roots Bar, is an exotic beach where you can relax under the shade of a palm tree. (Be careful of falling coconuts.) In Southwest Bay (Bahía Suroeste), there are a couple of hotels and restaurants nearby, and you can sometimes see horses cooling off in the water or people riding them along the shoreline. The beaches of Freshwater Bay are very convenient to several hotels and restaurants.
horses cooling off at Southwest Bay
The beach at Allan Bay (or Almond Bay) is more remote. It’s notable for its large octopus sculpture on the side of the road (can’t miss it) and nicely done walkway down to the beach from the ring road. The beach area is a public park, and there is a snack bar and stand where you can purchase handicrafts. You’ll have to either drive to this beach or hitch a ride from a taxi.
A couple of coves on Santa Catalina have some secluded beaches on the path to Morgan’s Head, and they offer snorkeling opportunities as well.
Providencia, which is surrounded by a 32-kilometer-long (20-mile-long) barrier reef, is a fantastic place to dive or to learn to dive. The water temperature is always warm, and water visibility is usually 25-35 meters (82-115 feet). The best time of year to dive is between June and October. In January, the water can be particularly rough.
Popular diving sites are Felipe’s Place, made up of several ledges with significant coral and marine life; Turtle Rock, a large rock at 20 meters (66 feet) covered with black coral; Tete’s Place, teeming with fish; Confusion, with corals and sponges at 20-40 meters (66-131 feet); and Nick’s Place, a deep crack in the island’s shelf that starts at 18 meters (60 feet) and drops to 40 meters (131 feet). Good snorkeling can be done near Cayo Cangrejo, at the small islands of Basalt and Palm Cays, and around Morgan’s Head in Santa Catalina, among other places.
The Hotel Sirius (Southwest Bay, tel. 8/514-8213, www.siriushotel.net) is serious about diving and offers a PADI certification (COP$850,000) that includes four immersions over open water during a period of five days. They also offer a mini-course (COP$185,000), which includes a double-immersion excursion. Hotel Sirius’s diving courses have an excellent reputation.
Felipe Diving (Freshwater Bay, cell tel. 316/628-6664 or 317/805-8684, www.felipediving.com) is also highly recommended. They offer an open-water course (COP$800,000) and rent out snorkeling equipment as well.
For kayak rentals and mangrove tours, contact guide Israel Livingston Archbold (cell tel. 318/587-7898). A two-hour tour for two people costs COP$130,000. Israel’s tours depart from Posada Coco Bay in Maracaibo.
The Peak (El Pico) is the highest point (360 meters/1,181 feet) on Providencia, and from this mountaintop the 360-degree views are impressive. This hike takes about 1.5 hours to the top and less than an hour down. The path to The Peak begins in the middle of the island and meanders along relatively well-marked trails through tropical rainforest and tropical dry forest. You’ll likely come across lizards, cotton trees, and maybe a friendly dog who will follow you up to the top and back.
From the top you’ll be able to see the barrier reef that extends for 32 kilometers (20 miles) off of the east coast of the island. This reef is the second longest in the Caribbean and is part of the Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon.
To get to the starting point, go to the Bottom House (Casa Baja) neighborhood in the southeastern corner of the island just to the east of Manchineel Bay. Although you may come across a sign pointing towards The Peak, roads are not well marked. Ask at your hotel for directions to the starting point.
At the beginning of the walk, follow a path straight ahead, veering towards the right, and five minutes later go towards the right before a two-story house. You’ll then go left (not to the right of the concrete well). From here on, you will pass a small garden, then follow a rocky creek straight on, fording it back and forth several times. You’ll go through a gate and eventually veer to the left as you begin climbing up the hill. After you cross over a wooden bridge the path becomes steep; hold on to the wooden handrails. Occasional signs identify some of the trees or fauna you might see along the way.
During rainy seasons, the path can become muddy and slippery. Make sure to bring a bottle of water with you. Guides are not necessary for this walk, but it’s not impossible to get lost. All hotels can contract a guide for you, and this usually costs around COP$50,000.
Be careful of thorny cockspur trees along the route, which also harbor ferocious ants.
From atop Santa Catalina island, English colonists and privateers once ruled, keeping their eyes peeled for potential enemies—usually the Spanish Armada or competing Dutch pirates. Today you can see some remains from 17th-century English rule at Fort Warwick. It is adjacent to a big rock called Morgan’s Head. If you squint hard enough, it resembles the head of Henry Morgan, the notorious Welsh pirate and admiral of the Royal Navy who marauded the Spanish New World colonies during the mid-17th century; Morgan captured Santa Catalina from the Spaniards in 1670. Morgan’s Head is next to Morgan’s Cave, where the pirate supposedly hid his loot. You can go snorkeling inside the cave, where you may encounter the occasional shark. Start this hike at the colorful pedestrian bridge that connects Providencia with Santa Catalina in the Santa Isabel area. When crossing the bridge, particularly in the evening, you may be able to spot graceful manta rays in the water. Once on Santa Catalina, take a left and follow the path.
Paradise Tours (Freshwater Bay, tel. 8/514-8283, cell tel. 311/605-0750, paradisetourscontact@gmail.com) is your one-stop shop, offering tours around the island and snorkeling, diving, and fishing excursions. One of their popular options is the Reefs and Snorkeling Tour (3-4 hours, min. 4 people, COP$85,000), during which you boat to coral reefs around the island, exploring the underwater cities that exist just below the surface. Snorkeling equipment on this tour is extra. A full-day trip to idyllic El Faro Island and reef, nine kilometers (5.6 miles) off of Providencia, costs COP$110,000. It’s an excellent place for snorkeling in warm, crystalline waters.
On land, Paradise Tours offers several hiking options, such as to The Peak, where you can see coral reefs in the distance; to Manchineel Hill, where you might see wild orchids on your way; and to Iron Wood Hill in the Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon. These cost COP$85,000.
A popular excursion is to take a boat tour around the island. The tours, departing at around 9am and returning at 3pm, make several stops, including Crab Cay and Santa Catalina. Any hotel can assist you in arranging a tour; boats make the rounds to pick up tourists at various hotels. These tours cost around COP$35,000 per person and usually leave from Freshwater Bay. If you prefer, you can rent a boat for just yourself and your crew; that will cost up to COP$350,000.
Discover Old Providence (Bottom House, cell tel. 318/587-7898 or 316/761-5770, enjoyprovidence.pespo@gmail.com) offers fishing, hiking, and kayak tours in and around Providencia.
A recommended guide who can assist with transportation on the island is Bernardo “Big Boy” Henry (cell tel. 313/811-0121 or 311/853-5166, bbernardhenry@gmail.com). It generally costs about COP$25,000 to get from one part of the island to the other.
Providencia is synonymous with fresh Caribbean seafood. A particular specialty here is black crab. These fast-moving crabs live on the interior mountains and descend to the sea en masse once a year to lay their eggs in April or May.
Many restaurants in Providencia do not accept credit cards. Hotel restaurants are open every day, while others often close on Sundays.
S Café Studio (on ring road, tel. 8/514-9076, 11am-10pm Mon.-Sat., COP$25,000), on the side of the road near Southwest Bay, is a favorite among visitors—and not just because of their trademark cappuccino pie. Everything is good here, it’s open for both lunch and dinner, and it’s the best spot for afternoon coffee and dessert. Café Studio has a varied menu with pastas, interesting seafood dishes, and salads. An awesome blues soundtrack plays in the background. It’s run by a local and his Canadian wife.
The Miss Mary Hotel (tel. 8/514-8454, noon-3pm and 6pm-9pm daily, COP$20,000) has an open-air restaurant overlooking the beach. It’s one of the most reliable spots for lunch. On the beach nearby is Restaurante Arturo (cell tel. 317/620-0814, 11am-5pm daily, COP$22,000) where the specialty is rondón (regional seafood stew). It’s open-air and has a relaxed atmosphere.
lunch with a view at Miss Mary Hotel
S Caribbean Place (tel. 8/514-8698, noon-3pm and 6pm-10pm Mon.-Sat., COP$25,000) is one of the best seafood spots in Providencia. Try the fish in ginger-butter sauce or the coconut shrimp, and for dessert, the coconut pie. Cheerfully decorated, it’s a great choice for both lunch and dinner.
For a pizza night, try Blue Coral (tel. 8/514-8718, 11am-3pm and 6pm-9pm Mon.-Sat., COP$20,000). Though not out of this world, the pizzas and pastas here can taste exotic after several days of seafood. Service is lackluster.
Morgan’s Market (8am-noon and 3pm-8pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-noon and 4pm-8pm Sat.-Sun.) is one of the main grocery stores on the island. It’s hard to miss, as it’s a hub of activity. There’s a sandwich and juice stand inside as well.
For an evening out in Santa Catalina, try S Sea Star Gourmet (Santa Catalina, cell tel. 316/824-0451, noon-4pm and 6:30pm-9pm Mon.-Fri., noon-4pm Sun., COP$25,000) an open-air restaurant with fine service where you can feast on fish fillets, lobster bathed in a coconut-ginger sauce, or arroz con cangrejo (crab stir-fry).
A quirky option is Don Olivo (Santa Catalina, cell tel. 310/230-5260), which is made up of a few small tables in front of a wooden house. Monsieur Olivier and his Colombian wife, Amparo, serve Caribbean dishes with a French flair. You have to ring the bell for service, and it’s best to call first. Expect to be regaled by stories.
Old Providence Taste (Old Town Bay, to the west of Santa Isabel, tel. 8/514-9028, 11:30am-3pm Mon.-Sat., COP$18,000), on the beach to the west of Santa Isabel, is run by a local sustainable seafood and farming co-op. Each day they offer a different menu, depending on what fishers and farmers bring in. It’s the best deal on the island. They can also organize visits to farms and excursions with local fishers.
The S Deep Blue Hotel Restaurant (Maracaibo Bay, tel. 8/514-8423, noon-3pm and 6pm-10pm daily, COP$35,000) is the most elegant and pricey restaurant on the island. Menu items are innovative and beautifully presented, and the service is excellent. An impossibly beautiful setting under the stars makes this the perfect place for a special dinner.
Providencia and Santa Catalina offer an array of interesting and comfortable accommodations. Most options are in Freshwater Bay, but each area on this enchanting island has its charms. Note that Internet service is unreliable, and it’s best to communicate with hotels via phone call or text message (rather than email) for reservations and inquiries.
There are three affiliated locations of the all-inclusive Decameron chain in Freshwater Bay, but they are locally operated. The least expensive option is Relax (Freshwater Bay, tel. 8/514-8087, COP$100,000 pp). It has a small pool, hot water, and eight rooms, and is near a couple of restaurants and stores. It is across the road from the beach. Miss Elma (Freshwater Bay, tel. 8/514-8229 or 8/514-8854, cell tel. 310/566-3773, COP$170,000 d) has just six rooms, all of which overlook the sea, and a restaurant on the beach. Hotel Posada del Mar (Freshwater Bay, tel. 8/514-8052, www.posadadelmarprovidencia.com, COP$220,000 pp d) is a 24-room hotel with air-conditioning and a pool. Instead of a beach, a grassy lawn overlooks the water.
Sol Caribe Solar (tel. 8/514-8230, www.solarhoteles.com, COP$175,000 pp) is a chain hotel with around 35 rooms and a pool, with breakfast and dinner buffets included in the cost. There are four rooms with high ceilings and balconies overlooking the water.
Somewhat far from everything is the S Posada Refugio de la Luna (Bluff, tel. 8/514-8460, providenciarefugiodelaluna@gmail.com, COP$170,000 d), a guesthouse with just one comfortable and spacious room. Carmeni, the owner, is a papier-mâché artist; her studio is upstairs.
S Hotel Sirius (tel. 8/514-8213 or cell tel. 318/743-5367, www.siriushotel.net, COP$290,000 d) is a beachside hotel that specializes in diving and snorkeling excursions—but you don’t have to be a diver to enjoy your stay here. It offers some huge rooms, and the friendly manager will make every effort to ensure you have a pleasant stay in Providencia.
Cabañas Miss Mary (tel. 8/514-8454, hotelmissmary@yahoo.com, COP$180,000 d) is just steps away from the beach in the southwest part of the island. It has eight rooms, five of which have beach views.
English writer Sam Cuming (author of A Short History of Providence and San Andrés) owns S Windy View Guesthouse (Bottom House, tel. 8/514-8750 or cell tel. 310/589-4888, www.windyviewprovidence.blogspot.com or www.providencewindyview.com, COP$120,000 d). This gorgeous spot with two rooms and a nautical feel is brimming with books.
Casa Posada Angels (Smoothwater Bay, cell tel. 321/414-5241, COP$50,000 pp) is a guesthouse managed by Anni, an expat journalist from New Zealand who has lived in the islands for many years. There is one small cabin and a room in the main house. Across the street is a rickety pier and water access that nobody else seems to know about.
For cute accommodations in an A-frame house next to a big mango tree, hang your hat at Miss Rossi (Almond Bay, tel. 8/514-8327 or cell tel. 316/315-2350, COP$85,000 pp). There is one room with a double bed and a room with two twins, perfect for a small group.
By far the most luxurious option on Providencia is S Deep Blue (Maracaibo Bay, tel. 8/514-8423, www.hoteldeepblue.com, COP$600,000 d). It has 13 rooms of various types, each with a view, and some with Jacuzzis. A deck with a small pool provides spectacular views of the water. There is no beach, and unless you plan on dining exclusively at their elegant restaurant, you will need to find transportation to get to other restaurants and beaches on the island. The friendly and professional staff can organize interesting day trips to nearby islands.
Located directly over the lapping waters on the eastern side of Providencia, Posada Coco Bay (Maracaibo, tel. 8/514-8903 or 8/514-8226, posadacocobay@gmail.com, www.posadacocobay.com, COP$180,000 d) is a small guesthouse with five comfortable rooms, three of which are on the water side. The other two (more spacious) options are across the street. You can go snorkeling just outside the hotel, and you can rent kayaks here, but there is no beach. You will have to rent a golf cart or mula to get to island restaurants and beaches.
Providencia is a mostly quiet and relaxed place, but Santa Catalina, a tiny island without any motorized vehicles and just a handful of residents, is exponentially more so.
Posada Santa Catalina (tel. 8/514-8392 or cell tel. 310/842-3278, www.posadasantacatalina.blogspot.com, COP$50,000 pp) uses solar panels for electricity, a rarity in the islands. This guesthouse offers five large rooms, with good beds, set amid fruit trees. The friendly owners grow the medicinal noni fruit here, as well as unusual herbs for teas; you might be able to try some.
Posada Villa Santa Catalina (tel. 8/514-8398 or cell tel. 311/257-3054, www.villasantacatalina.com, COP$50,000 pp d) is a comfortable and clean option with air-conditioning, but it doesn’t exude much charm. This guesthouse is next to the Sea Star restaurant.
S Posada Sunshine Paradise (tel. 8/514-8208 or cell tel. 311/227-0333, COP$180,000 d) is a charming guesthouse surrounded by flower gardens, and has four clean rooms. A major selling point is the warm hospitality of the owner, Francisca.
The Hotel Old Providence (Santa Isabel, tel. 8/514-8691 or 8/514-8094, COP$100,000 d) is the only option in the “town” area of Santa Isabel. It’s close to Santa Catalina and offers basic, comfortable rooms with air-conditioning. Breakfast is not provided.
There is a tourist office (Santa Isabel, tel. 8/514-8054, ext. 12, www.providencia.gov.co, 8am-noon and 2pm-6pm Mon.-Fri.) in the town area near the port. They may be able to assist with accommodations, including posadas nativas (guesthouses owned and operated by locals), and give you some maps. The town has a bank, an ATM, and an Internet café.
In case of an emergency the police can be reached at 112 or 8/514-8000. For medical emergencies, call 125.
Many hotels on the island sell A Short History of Providence and San Andrés (COP$30,000), by resident author Sam Cuming. It’s a good read for those interested in the mostly forgotten history of these tiny islands.
There are two ways to travel to Providencia: by plane or by fast catamaran boat service from San Andrés.
Satena (Centro Comercial New Point, Local 206, San Andrés, tel. 8/512-1403 or 8/514-9257, www.satena.com) offers two daily flights—one early-morning flight and one in the late afternoon—to Providencia’s Aeropuerto El Embrujo (PVA), which is near the Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon. Charter flights are usually organized by Decameron (Colombian toll-free tel. 01/800-051-0765, www.decameron.co) from San Andrés to Providencia. All flights are on small propeller planes, and there are strict weight limitations. Passengers are only allowed 10 kilograms (22 pounds) in their checked baggage, and each passenger is required to be weighed upon check-in along with their carry-on bag, which makes for an amusing photo op. The average weight per passenger cannot exceed 80 kilograms (176 pounds), including luggage. The flight takes about 35 minutes.
The Catamaran Sensation (tel. 8/512-3675 or cell tel. 318/347-2336, www.catamaransanandresyprovidencia.com, COP$140,000 one-way) provides fast boat service between San Andrés and Providencia. The trip takes approximately four hours from San Andrés to Providencia (and three hours in the other direction). It provides service Sunday-Monday and Wednesday-Friday during low season. There is greater frequency during high season. Boats leave San Andrés at 8am from the Muelle Toninos and depart Providencia from the docks in Santa Isabel at 2:30pm. The catamaran service, while cheaper than air travel, often gets ghastly reviews due to the rough seas and resulting seasickness among the passengers. When the winds are strong and the waters are choppy between the two islands, especially between June and July and again in December and January, the ride can be extremely rough, requiring boat attendants to constantly circulate among the passengers to distribute seasickness bags. This is especially true on the San Andrés-to-Providencia leg. Waters are normally calmer traveling the other direction.
Taxis are expensive in Providencia, costing around COP$20,000 no matter where you go. Mototaxis (motorcycle taxis) are much cheaper and you can find them almost anywhere. You can also flag down passing vehicles and hitchhike (expect to pay a small fee). You can rent mulas (gasoline-powered golf carts) and motorbikes in Providencia. All hotels can arrange this. They cost around COP$120,000 for one day. Reputable rental agencies include Renta Car y Motos Old Providence (Santa Isabel, tel. 8/514-8369 or cell tel. 313/450-4833, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) and B&Q Providence Center Hans Bush Felipe (cell tel. 311/561-1537, hours vary).