Indians are hard put to find an all-encompassing English name for what they eat every day in some form—dal. Many just call it “lentils” and hope for the best. As a result, you will find pappadom labeled “lentil wafers.” But for Westerners, lentils conjure up specific images of red, green, brown, and French lentils. Dried beans are never included, nor are chickpeas or split peas.
They are all dals.
I have decided to use the word dal throughout this book because nothing else will really do. To pronounce the word correctly, just remember that the a is a short one, like the one in “calm” and that the d is soft, as in “dulce” or “donde” (sorry to resort to other languages). Technically, because the word dal comes from dalna, or “to split,” dal really means split peas. But the word has come to stand for the whole family of dried beans and dried peas, both split and whole, skinned and unskinned.
For most Indians, dal is a major source of protein, combined as it is often at the table with a grain (usually rice or flatbreads) and either plain yogurt, set at home, or a yogurt relish. The mold of a traditional Indian repast was cast in ancient times and is used to this day. When I was growing up, our family lunch generally contained no meat (unless it was a holiday). What we had was rice or chapatis, a dal, two vegetables, a salad, and some yogurt. We pretty much ate what all of India was eating. The rice or chapatis were the constant. Everything else was varied on a daily basis.
India eats so many dals and we cook them in so many different ways: the spicing can be varied; you may cook one dal one day and another the next, or dals may be mixed; you could roast split peas before cooking them; you could cook a dal with a meat, fish, or vegetable; you could make a dish with a dal flour! You can actually go for months and not eat the same dal dish twice.
Some of the dals are of Indian origin. Moong dal (also called mung beans, and used in East Asia to make sprouts) and the slightly glutinous urad dal both have an ancient history in India. Chickpeas and red lentils came via the Middle East but came early. India was growing chickpeas in 2500 BC. Toor dal (pigeon peas) may have come from Africa, but could also have developed simultaneously in India.
Many of the whole beans, such as kidney beans in various hues, arrived from the New World with conquering colonialists around the sixteenth century. The colonialists were eventually thrown out, but India kept the beans, just adding them to its already vast collection of dals.
If you were to walk into an Indian dal shop, you would find an outstanding variety. First of all, there are the whole beans and peas: whole red kidney beans, large and small, whole black-eyed peas, whole red lentils (sabut masoor), whole urad dal, whole moong beans, whole chickpeas (green, black, beige, large, small), and many more. Then you have most of them in their split forms with skin, as well as their split forms without skin. You also have flours made with nearly all of them, the most popular being the very nutritious chickpea flour.
Almost no South Asian home is without chickpea flour. It is used to make fritters, dumplings, and a whole family of snack foods. It is also used in soupy stews to thicken them, and added to yogurt sauces when they are being heated to prevent curdling. If you want to keep it on hand, store the chickpea flour in the refrigerator.
I remember my mother making fritters on cool monsoon days. She would make a chickpea-flour batter, dip thinly sliced potatoes and cauliflower florets and whole chilies in it, and then deep-fry them all. We would eat these with a green chutney. I try to do the same for my grandchildren. On cold winter days, I make my own thick, droppable batter and dip cut-up shrimp and onions in it. I remove one heaping teaspoon at a time and drop it into hot oil, frying the fritters until they are a rich, reddish gold! We all sit by the fire and devour them. (See Shrimp and Onion Fritters, in the appetizer section.)
The normal everyday dal is wet and somewhat soupy—its final texture is a personal decision and ranges from the very thin to the very thick. (In India, there is a saying that when guests drop in, you just add more water to the dal!) Those eating it with rice take their rice first and then ladle some of the dal over it and some to the side, so it can be eaten two ways—mixed with the rice or combined with the vegetables or yogurt or pickles. When eating it with flatbread, it is ladled into small metal bowls known as katoris. This way it is easier to scoop it up with the bread. There are exceptions, of course. Black beans (kali dal) are generally cooked to be quite thick and are spooned directly onto the plate.
Most dals start out by being washed and then boiled in water until they are tender. They are quite bland at this stage. The transformation comes at the end when oil or ghee is heated in a small pan, spices and seasonings are dropped into it until they sizzle, and then all this is poured over the boiled dal.
The fresher the dal, the faster it cooks. If you have old dried beans that have been sitting around for years, it may be best to throw them away—or be prepared to cook them for hours and hours. Dals are best eaten within a year of being picked and dried. Two-year-old dals are still fine, but they may require longer cooking.
Indian black beans are different from those eaten by much of the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America. The Indian ones are a very, very dark shade of green but manage to look black. The Central American variety is actually black. However, one may be substituted for the other, even though each has a somewhat different taste and texture.
This is a recipe for dried black beans (Indian or Central American) cooked the way it is done in the villages of the Punjab. Those village homes that have a tandoor—a clay oven—leave pots of this dal to cook very slowly overnight over the embers.
These beans are usually eaten with whole-wheat flatbreads, vegetables (such as eggplants), and yogurt relishes. They may also be served with rice. Whole-wheat pita bread may be substituted for the Indian flatbreads.
serves 6
2 cups Indian or Central American black beans (the Indian ones are sold as whole urad with skin or sabut urad or ma ki dal, and the Central American as frijoles negros or just black beans), picked over and washed
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
2 teaspoons very finely grated peeled fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, crushed to a pulp
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
6 tablespoons tomato paste
¾ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Soak the beans overnight in water that covers them generously. Drain them the next day and put them in a heavy pan along with 6½ cups water. Bring to a boil. Cover partially, lower heat, and simmer very gently for 1½–2 hours or until the beans are tender. (Older beans might take longer to cook.)
Add the salt, ginger, garlic, cilantro, and tomato paste. Stir to mix well and continue to cook on low heat for another 30 minutes. Add the cream and stir in. Just before serving, bring the beans back to a simmer and stir in the butter.
Sometimes when I am in a rush and still longing for an Indian dal, I take the simple way out and use canned beans—black, great northern, cannellini, or any other beans I like. Today we can get organic canned beans of excellent quality, and it barely takes 15 minutes to cook them. Even the liquid in the can tastes good, so I do not have to throw it away.
Serve these with rice or Indian flatbreads.
serves 2–3
2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
A generous pinch of ground asafetida
¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
½ medium onion, cut into fine half rings
4 cherry tomatoes, quartered
⅛–¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
One 15-ounce can of black, great northern, cannellini, or any other beans, preferably organic
About ½ teaspoon salt, as needed
Pour the oil into a small pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the asafetida and cumin. Let the cumin seeds sizzle for 5 seconds. Add the onions and turn heat to medium. Stir and cook the onions until they have browned a bit. Add the tomatoes and stir a few times. Now add the cayenne and turmeric. Stir once or twice and add the contents of the can (beans and liquid, if organic, otherwise just the beans and the same amount of water as liquid) as well as about 4 tablespoons water. Stir and bring to a simmer. Cover, turn heat to low, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Add as much salt as needed.
In India, dried beans and peas may be combined with almost any vegetable. Here, I use either pumpkin or butternut squash. It gives a mellow sweetness to the dish.
In India, this would be eaten with whole-wheat flatbreads, yogurt relishes, salads, and pickles. For a Western meal, the beans may be served with a sliced baguette as a first course or with roast pork or roast lamb.
serves 6
2 cups (about 12 ounces) dried black-eyed peas
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
½ teaspoon whole fennel seeds
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ teaspoon finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 fresh hot green chili, chopped
4 tablespoons tomato puree
1½ teaspoons salt
⅛–¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¾ pound (2½ cups) peeled and seeded butternut squash, cut into 1-inch pieces
Soak the black-eyed peas overnight in water that covers them well. Drain.
Pour the oil into a heavy, largish pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the cumin and fennel seeds. Let them sizzle for 10 seconds and then add the onions. Stir and fry until the onion pieces turn brown at the edges. Add the garlic, ginger, and green chili. Stir for a minute. Add the tomato puree. Stir for a minute. Now put in the peas, salt, cayenne, squash, and 4½ cups water. Bring to a boil. Cover partially, turn heat to low, and cook for about 1 hour or until peas are tender and the water is absorbed.
There was a time when the easy-to-use canned chickpeas came in such a tin-tasting liquid that they needed not only draining but rinsing as well. The liquid was unusable. Lately, I have found canned organic chickpeas that are in a lovely natural liquid, quite similar to what I get when I boil my own. This is a giant leap, indeed. Look for them.
The chickpeas may be served with Indian flatbreads or rice. Eggplants, greens, and relishes would complete the meal. Meats may always be added.
serves 4
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil
¾ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1 cup (4¼ ounces) finely chopped onions
1 teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
¾ teaspoon ground coriander
¼–½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup (4¼ ounces) finely chopped tomatoes
1 teaspoon salt
2½ cups (12½ ounces) cooked, drained chickpeas (save liquid,
if from organic can)—a 25-ounce can is about right
½ teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Pour the oil into a frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, put in the cumin seeds. After 10 seconds, put in the onions. Stir and fry until the onions turn brown at the edges. Add the ginger and stir once. Add the coriander, cayenne, and turmeric and stir once. Put in the tomatoes and stir for a minute. Now add 1 cup water and the salt. Bring to a boil. Cover, turn heat to low, and simmer 10 minutes. Add the chickpeas and 1 cup of the chickpea liquid or water. Bring to a boil. Cover, turn heat to low, and cook 15 minutes. Add the garam masala and lemon juice. Stir and cook, uncovered, on low heat, another 5 minutes.
Here is an everyday dish with a fair number of ingredients. Once you have them all prepared and assembled, the rest is fairly easy. Remember that you can chop the onions in a food processor. I have used two 15-ounce cans of organic chickpeas, draining them to separate the liquid so I can measure it. If you are not using organic canned chickpeas, use water instead of the can liquid. If the can liquid is not enough, add water to get the correct amount.
Serve with Indian or Middle Eastern breads (you can even roll up the chickpeas inside them) with Yogurt Sambol with Tomato and Shallot, on the side. At a dinner, add meat and a vegetable.
serves 6
2 tablespoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons ground cumin
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
4 tablespoons olive or canola oil
½ cup finely chopped red onions or shallots
2 teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, crushed to a pulp
1 cup finely chopped tomatoes
3¾ cups drained canned chickpeas
1½ cups liquid from can if organic, or water, or mixture of the two
2 medium boiling potatoes (5–6 ounces), peeled and cut into ¾-inch dice
1 teaspoon salt
Mix together the coriander, cumin, cayenne, turmeric, and 3 tablespoons water in a small bowl.
Pour the oil into a medium-sized pan and set over medium heat. When hot, put in the onions. Stir and fry for 3–4 minutes or until lightly browned. Add the ginger and garlic. Stir for a minute. Put in the spice mixture from the bowl. Stir for a few seconds. Add the tomatoes. Stir and cook for about 3 minutes or until the tomato has softened. Add the chickpeas and 1½ cups of the liquid from the can, adding water if needed (see above). Then add the potatoes and the salt. Bring to a boil. Cover, turn heat to low, and simmer gently until the potatoes are tender, about 15–20 minutes.
I use cremini mushrooms here since they are very firm, but ordinary white mushrooms will do as well.
You may add finely chopped fresh green chilies (1–2 teaspoons) toward the end of the cooking, as many Indians do, if you want the dish to be hotter.
This may be served at a meal but also makes a wonderful snack as a “wrap” if rolled inside any flatbread. Thinly sliced onions, cilantro, and chopped tomatoes may be rolled inside too. Any chutney from this book or good-quality store-bought salsa could be used instead of the onion-cilantro-tomato mixture.
serves 4
¼ cup olive or canola oil
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
One 2-inch cinnamon stick
½ medium red onion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 large clove garlic, crushed to a pulp
10 medium-sized mushrooms (about ½ pound total), cut lengthways into ¼-inch-thick slices
2 teaspoons ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ medium tomato, chopped
2½ cups cooked, drained chickpeas from a can, preferably organic (save liquid)—a 25-ounce can is about right
¾–1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Pour the oil into a wide pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the cumin seeds and cinnamon. Let the spices sizzle for a few seconds. Then add the onions. Stir and fry until the edges of the onions brown a bit. Add the ginger and garlic and stir once or twice. Add the mushrooms. Stir until they are wilted. Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, and cayenne. Stir a few times. Add the tomato and ½ cup of either the chickpea liquid from an organic can or water. Cover, turn heat to low, and cook 10 minutes.
Add the drained chickpeas, salt, and 1 cup of the organic chickpea liquid or water or a mixture of the two. Bring to a simmer. Cover, turn heat to low, and cook gently for 15–20 minutes, stirring now and then.
Eating a karhi is really a way of eating heated yogurt. Because yogurt would curdle into unappetizing blobs if it were to be just heated up, it is stabilized with a flour first. In India, where there are many vegetarians who know that a bean, a grain, and a milk product can make for a balanced meal, it is chickpea flour that is used. Known variously as garbanzo flour, gram flour, chickpea flour, farine de pois chiches, and besan, it is very nutritious as well as full of a nutty flavor.
Karhis are cooked over much of India with many interesting regional variations.
This yogurt sauce, spicily seasoned and quite scrumptious, is either poured over rice or put into individual bowls and eaten with whole-grain flatbreads. Meats and vegetables are often served on the side.
serves 6
¾ cup chickpea flour, sifted
2 cups plain yogurt, preferably the acidophilus yogurt found in health-food stores
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil
1½ teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1½ teaspoons whole brown or yellow mustard seeds
1 teaspoon whole fennel seeds
3 dried hot red chilies
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
About 15 fresh curry leaves or 8 chopped fresh basil leaves
1¾ teaspoons salt
Put the chickpea flour in a large bowl. Very slowly, add 1 cup water, beating with a whisk as you do so. Keep beating until there are no lumps. Add the yogurt and beat it in until the mixture is smooth. Add another 4 cups water gradually, beating as you go.
Pour the oil into a medium pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the cumin, mustard, and fennel seeds as well as the chilies. As soon as the mustard seeds start to pop, a matter of seconds, put in the turmeric and curry leaves. Stir once and pour in the chickpea-yogurt mixture. Stir with a whisk. Turn heat to medium. Add the salt. Keep stirring with the whisk until the mixture thickens and starts to bubble. Turn heat to low, cover partially, and cook 25 minutes.
LEFT: Green Lentils with Green Beans and Cilantro
RIGHT: Bulgar Pilaf with Peas and Tomato
For vegetarians, these refreshing lentils, accompanied perhaps by Yogurt Relish with Okra and a bread, Indian or crusty Western, could make an entire meal. For non-vegetarians, meats or fish curries may be added.
serves 4–6
1½ cups green lentils
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup ¾-inch green bean segments
1 well-packed cup finely chopped cilantro
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil
⅛ teaspoon ground asafetida
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1 medium shallot, peeled and cut into fine slivers
A few wedges of lemon, if desired
Put the lentils and 4¼ cups water in a medium pan and bring to a boil. Cover partially, turn heat to low, and simmer very gently for 20 minutes. Add the salt, cayenne, green beans, and cilantro. Stir to mix and bring to a boil again. Cover partially and simmer very gently for another 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
Pour the oil into a small frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the asafetida and cumin seeds. Let the seeds sizzle for 10 seconds. Add the shallots. Stir and fry them on medium heat until they turn reddish. Now pour the entire contents of the frying pan into the pan with the lentils. Stir to mix.
Offer lemon wedges at the table.
Red lentils, sold in Indian shops as skinless masoor dal and in some places as Egyptian red lentils, usually come in various shades of salmon pink. They originated in the Middle East but came into India quite early and are eaten throughout North India.
This particular dish may be served with most Indian meals. It also happens to be particularly scrumptious over a pasta such as penne or fusilli.
serves 4–5
3 cloves garlic, crushed in a garlic press
1 teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil
4 tablespoons chopped onions
1 cup (5 ounces) finely chopped tomatoes
1 cup red lentils (skinless masoor dal), washed and drained
¾–1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon unsalted butter (optional)
Put the garlic, ginger, coriander, cumin, cayenne, and turmeric into a cup and mix.
Pour the oil into a wide, medium pan and set over medium heat. When hot, put in the onions. Stir and fry until they turn golden at the edges. Add the spice mixture from the cup. Stir for a minute. Add the tomatoes. Stir and cook, scraping the bottom, until the tomatoes have softened. Now put in the red lentils, 3½ cups water, and the salt. Bring to a boil. Cover partially, turn heat to low, and cook 45 minutes. Stir well and cook, uncovered, another 5 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and butter just before serving.
An everyday dal to be served with rice, vegetables, and curries. (In Bangladesh, the curry would often be made with fish.)
serves 4–5
1 cup red lentils (skinless masoor dal), washed and drained
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 medium onion, half finely chopped and half cut into fine half rings
¾–1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil or ghee
2 cloves garlic, cut into thin slices
2–3 dried hot red chilies, each broken in half
Put the red lentils, 3½ cups water, turmeric, and the chopped onions into a medium pan. Bring to a boil. Cover partially, turn heat to low, and cook 45 minutes or until the lentils are very tender. Add the salt and mix in.
Pour the oil into a small frying pan set over medium heat. When hot, put in the sliced onions and stir a few times. Add the garlic and chilies. Stir and fry until the onions and garlic have turned a rich golden-red color. Pour the contents of the frying pan into the pot with the dal. Stir to mix.
This delicious dal curry may also be made with moong dal or an equal mixture of red lentils, masoor dal, and moong dal.
Serve with rice and fish.
serves 4–5
1 cup masoor dal (red lentils), washed and drained
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1½ teaspoons salt
1 packed cup (1¾ ounces) chopped cilantro
½–¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
½ medium onion, chopped
10–15 fresh curry leaves (if available)
1 teaspoon very finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 good-sized clove garlic, crushed to a pulp
Put the dal and 3 cups water in a medium pan. Bring to a boil but do not let it boil over. Skim off the froth and add the turmeric. Stir, cover partially, turn heat to very low, and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, cilantro, and cayenne. Bring to a simmer. Cover, turn heat to low, and simmer 10 minutes. Stir and turn off the heat.
Pour the oil into a small pan or small frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the mustard and cumin seeds. As soon as the mustard seeds begin to pop, a matter of seconds, add the onions and curry leaves. Stir and fry until the onions start to brown. Now put in the ginger and garlic. Stir for a minute and then empty the contents of the small pan into the pan with the dal. Stir to mix.
Our family can eat this every single day of the week. It is my soul food.
I love this with Plain Basmati Rice and any vegetable I feel like that day. I also love to add Lemony Ground Lamb with Mint and Cilantro. (see photograph)
serves 4–6
1 cup (7 ounces) moong dal (hulled and split mung beans), washed and drained
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
¾ teaspoon salt, or to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil or ghee
⅛ teaspoon ground asafetida
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1–2 dried hot red chilies (the short cayenne type)
1 medium shallot, peeled and cut into fine slivers
Put the dal in a medium pot and add 3½ cups water. Bring to a boil. Skim off the white froth and add the turmeric. Stir to mix. Cover partially, turn heat to a gentle simmer, and cook 45 minutes. Add the salt and stir to mix. Turn off heat.
Pour the oil into a small frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot put in the asafetida, cumin seeds, and chilies, quickly in that order. As soon as the chilies darken, a matter of seconds, add the shallots. Stir and cook until the shallots brown and then quickly pour the contents of the frying pan over the cooked dal. Stir to mix.
This is a Bengali specialty that requires that the moong dal (hulled and split mung beans) be lightly roasted first and then, when the dal is almost done, quick-cooking greens such as mustard greens, spinach, or green chard are added to make it more nourishing.
There are several tiny steps required here, but each is simplicity itself. I find that most split peas and beans are so clean these days that they need no picking over. You do need to rinse them off. In the case of this recipe, the rinsing is done after the roasting, for obvious reasons.
Bengalis might use mustard oil for the final seasoning. It complements the mustard greens and adds its own unique flavor. But since it is frowned upon by Western food authorities for the harmful acids it contains, I have started using extra virgin olive oil instead, another strong flavor, though a different one.
For many peasants, such a dal, served with rice and perhaps followed by a yogurt dessert, makes for a rich, ample meal. You may add a fish dish.
serves 4–6
1 cup (6 ounces) hulled and split moong dal
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tightly packed cup (3 ounces) mustard greens, well chopped (other tender greens, such as spinach or chard, may be substituted)
1¼ teaspoons salt
1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon whole brown or yellow mustard seeds
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon nigella seeds
¼ teaspoon whole fennel seeds
2 dried hot red chilies
Put the unwashed dal in a medium pan and set over medium heat. Shake or stir the dal until some of the grains turn a little brown. Now pour cold water into the pan, stir the grains, and pour the water out. Do this one more time. Drain the beans well and add 4 cups fresh water. Add the turmeric and bring to a boil, without letting the dal boil over. Cover partially, turn heat to low, and cook 30 minutes. Add the greens and salt. Stir and cook another 20 minutes, with the pan partially covered, stirring now and then.
Heat the oil in a small pan or a small frying pan. When hot, put in the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, nigella seeds, fennel seeds, and chilies, in that order. As soon as the mustard seeds begin to pop, a matter of seconds, pour the oil and seasonings over the cooked dal, cover it, and let the flavors blossom for a few minutes before stirring and then serving.
The Indian split peas, arhar dal and toovar (or toor) dal, are closely related. Both are the hulled and split descendants of the pigeon pea. Arhar, the North Indian version, is milder in flavor, whereas toovar, used in West and South India, tends to be darker and earthier. Use whichever you can find. If you cannot find either, use yellow split peas.
Serve with rice or Indian flatbreads. Add a vegetable and relishes to complete the meal. Non-vegetarians may add meat or fish, if they like.
serves 4–6
1 cup arhar dal (or any other split peas), washed and drained
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1½ teaspoons salt
¼–¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil or ghee
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
15–20 fresh curry leaves, if available, or 10 fresh basil leaves
1 medium onion, chopped
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
Put the dal and 4½ cups water in a medium pan. Bring to a boil and remove the froth that rises to the top. Turn heat to low and add the turmeric. Stir, cover partially, and simmer gently for an hour. Add the salt and cayenne. Stir. Cover partially again and simmer gently for about 10 minutes or until you finish the next step.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. When it is very hot, put in the cumin and mustard seeds. As soon as the mustard seeds pop, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves and onions. Stir and fry until the onions have softened a bit and turned brown at the edges. Add the tomatoes and stir on medium-low heat until the tomatoes have softened a bit also, about 2 minutes. Pour the contents of the frying pan into the pan with the dal and stir it in.
I have only eaten this slightly sweet and slightly sour dish in Gujarat, and how good it was, too. It isn’t just corn grains that are cooked in the dal but the cob itself, lopped off into reasonably sized rounds. The woody part of the cob flavors the dal in mysterious ways. You just cannot pick up these corn pieces with Western cutlery. Hands are required to eat the corn off the dal-and-spice-flavored cob sections.
If you cannot find toor dal (also labeled toovar dal and arhar dal), use any other split peas that you can find easily, such as red lentils or yellow split peas. Just remember that red lentils cook faster than toor dal.
This dal is put into individual serving bowls and served with rice or Indian flatbreads. A selection of other vegetables and relishes are also included in vegetarian meals. Non-vegetarians might add fish or chicken.
serves 4–5
1 cup toor dal (or any other split peas), washed and drained
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 ear of fresh corn, cut crosswise into 1-inch segments (or as many segments as there are diners)
1¼ teaspoons salt
¼–¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons olive or canola oil or ghee
⅛ teaspoon ground asafetida
3 whole cloves
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
2 whole dried hot red chilies
Put the dal and 4 cups water in a medium pan. Bring to a boil and remove the froth that rises to the top. Turn heat to low and add the turmeric. Stir, cover partially, and simmer gently for an hour. Add the corn, salt, cayenne, lemon juice, and sugar. Stir. Cover partially again and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
Heat the oil in a small frying pan. When it is very hot, put in the asafetida, cloves, cumin, mustard seeds, and chilies. As soon as the mustard seeds pop, pour the contents of the frying pan into the pan with the dal.