Drinking cocktails before noon has been an American practice since at least the 1800s, when bitters were taken in the morning as a restorative. The term “hair of the dog” dates back almost that long, too, and refers to a folk belief that a bite from a rabid dog could be cured by pressing its fur into the wound. While we don’t recommend a stiff drink every a.m., we do love a brunch tipple, especially for a festive occasion—a holiday, a birthday, or a beach weekend with friends.
In this chapter, you’ll find traditional hair-of-the-dog mood lifters, like the Morning Glory (page 149) and the Fog Cutter (page 157), along with some new inventions like the Mezcalada (page 160) that are suitable for bedazzling house guests. The marmalade-tinged Breakfast Martini (page 151) is particularly genius—quick, easy, and alluring first thing in the morning with a side of buttered toast. During tomato season, serve a round of Red Snappers (page 158)—the original Bloody Mary—on the patio. Bright and reviving, the Snapper is full of fresh-squeezed ripe tomatoes and lemons—intoxicating, even before you add gin.