I’ve been in Australia ten years now, but it still irks me calling aubergine eggplant—I can’t get used to it. In the UK, it is known as aubergine. And why is it called eggplant anyway? It’s purple, not white! Well, the name comes from the now little-known white variety, which does very closely resemble an egg.
RECIPES
SICILIAN-STYLE SALTED & VINEGARED EGGPLANT IN A SANDWICH WITH MOZZARELLA & BASIL
BRAISED EGGPLANT/TOMATO & MEATBALLS
Eggplant is a weird vegetable to me, right up there with zucchini and some of the other Mediterranean veggies that I really didn’t like until I moved to Australia. I think eggplant was overused when I was growing up, and I didn’t really like the flavor of it. I found it to be very sour and astringent on my palate, but that was really only because I’d overcooked and badly prepared it.
Trying a really good baba ghanoush is what changed my mind. It was amazing; so creamy and smoky, served on some warm crispy pita bread. Just delicious!. Once you’ve tried that, how can you not love eggplant? If only Dad or Mum had given me baba ghanoush as a kid, maybe I would have enjoyed it more.
It was only nine years ago, when I began visiting Arnie and Jo Pizzini, owners of Chrismont winery in the King Valley in country Victoria, when I really began to understand and appreciate the Italian way of cooking eggplant. I was trained in the French tradition and I didn’t really understand the simplicity of flavor in Italian cooking. Arnie and Jo’s background is half-Sicilian and half-Milanese, and it was eating Jo’s mom’s, Nonna Franca’s, Sicilian-style eggplant (see recipe) that opened my eyes to everything eggplant could be when prepared with love and respect for the vegetable itself It was simply salted, then broiled and marinated with vinegar, oil, garlic (of course) and seasoning, then finished with some chopped basil. We sat down to eat and around the dinner table there were also meatballs, salads, lasagne … Of course in the style of true Italian hospitality, there was more food than you can imagine—but it was the eggplant I really fell in love with. I couldn’t get enough. And now I eat a lot of it—through summer, that is. It is a beautiful summer veg and should be kept as a summer veg. I think it’s very similar to tomato in that way, and I try my best to eat it only when it’s at its peak.
There are many different varietals out there. Three that I know of, just off the top of my head, are the Black Beauty, which is the large purple kind you will find in the supermarket. Then there is the Lebanese eggplant, which looks like a long purple finger. They are great to simply slice, lightly salt and pan fry. Rosa Bianca is a light pink/purple mottled one that is very beautiful to look at. There are also some Indian varieties, which are a multicolored mottle. And then there’s white, as I mentioned before, which are called Japanese White Egg.
Eggplant is another far-reaching veg. It was originally cultivated in India and didn’t receive great acclaim when it was first introduced into Britain as it suffered from guilt by association, being distantly related to the deadly nightshade. And for some unknown reason, it was thought to cause all manner of ailments, from a poor complexion to leprosy and piles. But part of its rise to popularity may be explained in the translation of its Sanskrit name, vatin-gana, which means “anti-wind” or “wind-killer” So it came to be used as a great foil to any diet that was high in wind-causing vegetables, such as beans or cabbage.
The Japanese just love it dressed with sweet miso, and it stars in many Indian curries. Imagine the Syrians and Lebanese without eggplant—just like Mork without Mindy. It is a mainstay of Italian cuisine, being one of the essential ratatouille vegetables, and Greeks, with their famous national dish, moussaka, would also be quite lost without it.
It was around nine years ago that I grew my first eggplant. And, you know, I’m a little embarrassed to say, I felt quite like a child when you ask them where a potato comes from and they don’t know it comes from the ground. When I first planted the seedling I was very excited but didn’t really know what to expect. The plant got bigger and bigger and was soon up to my knees, and then it stopped. Then a beautiful purple flower came out with a big bud, and after a few weeks the bud had become a huge eggplant, attached by this one scrawny looking stalk. I thought, “Imagine being an eggplant out there in the garden, everyone looking at you. Surely you’d be the ‘chicken legs’ of the garden world—kind of like my skinny legs. All the other plants would be laughing at you!” It is a beautiful fruit, but also quite a comical one with its massive bulbous growth coming from a spindly little stalk.
When you are planting, remember that eggplants need full sun, and they need to be spaced about 8 inches apart. I find the best results are if you grow to seedling in a little hotbox, which are readily available at good nurseries or hardware shops. Once they’ve reached about 2½ inches high they are ready to be transplanted into the garden. Put a lot of straw around the base of the plant as it is greedy with water and the straw will help keep it moist. Four to five seedlings will be enough for a good crop and they are a pretty plant. Kids will be amazed, and even you will be too, at just how the little chicken legs manage to hold up the equivalent of a medicine ball.
SICILIAN-STYLE SALTED & VINEGARED EGGPLANT IN A SANDWICH WITH MOZZARELLA & BASIL
MAKES 8 SMALL OR 4 LARGE
This recipe marries two great food memories of my life: eggplant and the best sandwiches. The first memory comes from when I visited my good friends Arnie and Jo Pizzini at Chrismont winery in the King Valley. They cook so beautifully and it wasn’t until I tried this version of cooked eggplant that I came to enjoy the veg. The other memory comes from spending many great times as a child with my relatives, particularly Aunty Mary and Uncle Pete, in different coal-mining’ villages of Barnsley, where I ate the best sandwiches ever. What made them so special? It was all to do with the bread. Well, the filling and pickles that went with the sandwiches were great too, but the bread was in a league of its own—it was the classic Yorkshire teacake style: soft and fluffy and it left your lips covered in flour like a doughnut leaves sugar. You may want to elaborate on my sandwich, adding whatever ingredients go well together.
1 LARGE EGGPLANT, THINLY SLICED FROM TIP TO TOE
1½ TABLESPOONS FINE SEA SALT
1½ TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
2 GARLIC CLOVES, SLICED
1¼ CUPS EXCEPTIONAL WHITE WINE VINEGAR (THE BETTER THE VINEGAR THE MORE FLAVOR)
⅓ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
3 SPRIGS BASIL
4⅔ CUPS BREAD FLOUR
1 TEASPOON WHITE SUGAR
⅕ OUNCE FINE SEA SALT
1½ TABLESPOONS BUTTER
½ OUNCE DRIED ACTIVE YEAST
2 BALLS BUFFALO MOZZARELLA, ABOUT 4 OUNCES EACH, SLICED
16 BASIL LEAVES
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
For the eggplant, lay the slices in a heatproof tray, sprinkle with the salt and let stand for 5 minutes, then rinse off the salt and pat dry with a paper towel. Heat a cast-iron chargrill (griddle) pan or skillet over high heat. Brush one side of the eggplant slices with the olive oil, place oiled side down in the pan and seal until lightly browned. Remove from the pan and lay back on the tray in a single layer.
Place the garlic, vinegar and extra virgin olive oil in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then pour over the eggplant, add the basil sprigs and allow to cool. The liquid mixture should cover the eggplant completely.
For the breadrolls, place the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Heat a generous cup of water and the butter in a small saucepan over low heat until the butter has just melted, then take off the heat and let stand until you can comfortably put your finger in it. Add the yeast and whisk until fully dissolved, then add to the flour mixture and mix until a smooth dough forms. Cover with a tea towel and leave to prove in a warm place for 30–40 minutes or until the dough has doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly flour a large baking sheet.
Scrape out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and punch down for 2–3 minutes to knock out all the air. Divide the bread dough into 8 small even pieces or 4 larger pieces, then roll in one hand in a circular fashion, using the bench to help create a rough ball-like figure. Place onto the floured tray and repeat with the remaining dough, spacing the balls on the tray at least 1¼ inches apart. Cover with the tea towel and leave to prove for 15–25 minutes or until doubled in size. Sift a little flour over the rolls and bake for 7 minutes, then remove the tray from the oven, sprinkle the rolls with a little water, return to the oven and bake for a further 20–25 minutes (a little longer for the larger rolls). To check if the rolls are ready, tap the base and you should hear a faint hollow sound. Once cooked, place onto a wire rack to cool. These breadrolls should be soft, fluffy and moist on the inside with a slightly hard crust.
To assemble—well, it seems ridiculous telling you how to make a sandwich—layer the eggplant, mozzarella and basil and season to your liking.
BRAISED EGGPLANT/TOMATO & MEATBALLS
SERVES 4 / MAKES 18 MEATBALLS
I would recommend that you serve a small portion of cooked polenta, rice or mashed potato as a side with this dish and maybe a simple leaf salad too.
1 POUND 3 OUNCES GROUND BEEF
1 FREE-RANGE OR ORGANIC EGG
½ RED ONION, FINELY DICED
3 GARLIC CLOVES, FINELY CRUSHED
FINE SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
5 SPRIGS THYME, LEAVES PICKED AND CHOPPED
5 SPRIGS OREGANO, LEAVES PICKED AND CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS SALTED BABY CAPERS, RINSED AND CHOPPED
8–12 ANCHOVY FILLETS, CHOPPED
3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
1 TABLESPOON BALSAMIC VINEGAR
2 TABLESPOONS POLENTA
⅓ CUP OLIVE OIL
1 LARGE EGGPLANT, CUT INTO 8 WEDGES AND SALTED FOR 5 MINUTES, THEN PATTED DRY WITH A PAPER TOWEL
1 LARGE RED ONION, SLICED
ABOUT 16 CHERRY TOMATOES, HALVED
1 TABLESPOON SUPERFINE SUGAR
⅓ CUP RED WINE VINEGAR
14 OUNCES CANNED CHOPPED TOMATOES
1 LARGE HANDFUL OF BASIL LEAVES, SHREDDED
FINELY GRATED PARMESAN, TO SERVE
For the meatballs, place all the ingredients, except the polenta, in a large bowl and beat quite hard using a massaging action with your hands until the mixture comes together and all the ingredients are distributed evenly throughout. Now mix in the polenta. Take about 1¼-1½ ounces of meat in your hands, roll into a ball and place on a tray. Take each meatball and very roughly throw between your hands to tenderize the meat, then reroll into neat balls. This also helps them keep their shape during the cooking process. Place back on the tray.
For the braise, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saucepan (measuring about 12 inches in diameter by 6 inches deep) over medium heat. Add nine of the meatballs and sauté for about 30 seconds each side till browned. Place the meatballs on a plate for later. Repeat with the remaining meatballs.
Add a generous tablespoon of olive oil to the same pan, add half of the eggplant and pan fry. Remove from the pan, place on a different plate and reserve for later. Repeat with the remaining olive oil and eggplant.
Keep the heat consistent all the time to retain heat in the saucepan.
Add the onion to the same pan and sweat down a little until soft. Add the halved tomatoes and cook out a little for 4 minutes. Now add the sugar and vinegar and deglaze the pan.
Add the canned tomatoes and ¾ cup of water and bring to a boil. Add the eggplant, cover with a lid, turn the heat down to a simmer and cook for 10–12 minutes.
Add the meatballs and carefully stir them into the sauce. Turn the heat down to low, cover again and cook for 10 minutes. To serve, scatter over the basil and Parmesan and place the pan in the middle of the table with a large serving spoon.
SPICY EGGPLANT BRAISE
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE OR SAUCE
The spices in this dish really bring out the flavors of the eggplant. I use this as a base for all sorts of things, but it’s a must-try as a sauce for pasta or as a side to chicken or veal.
2 EGGPLANTS (I PREFER PURPLE ONES), CUT INTO ¾–1¼ INCH CUBES
2 TABLESPOONS FINE SEA SALT
1 CUP OLIVE OIL
2 RED ONIONS, DICED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, CRUSHED
1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS
½ TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
½ TEASPOON SWEET PAPRIKA
1 PINCH OF CAYENNE PEPPER
2 TOMATOES, DICED
1 TABLESPOON SUPERFINE SUGAR
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
2 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED ITALIAN PARSLEY
Place the eggplant in a bowl, sprinkle with the salt and leave for 20 minutes, then rinse off the salt and pat dry with a paper towel. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat, add half of the olive oil, then the eggplant and sauté until golden brown all over. Remove from the pan and set aside for later. You may need to do this in two batches.
Wipe out the pan, return to low heat, add the remaining olive oil, then the onion and garlic and cook until soft. Add the spices and cook out for 3 minutes. Add the eggplant back to the pan along with the tomato, sugar, lemon juice and ⅔ cup of water and cook for 5–7 minutes. Take off the heat, check the seasoning, then stir in the parsley. Enjoy straight away or it will keep for up to 4 days in the fridge.
