The Cinderella cathedral in search of finery
We are not talking about Westminster Abbey, that glorious setting for coronations and royal weddings. In comparison to the 950-year-old abbey, the cathedral of the same name is a poor relation, as it does not belong to the established Church of England but is a Roman Catholic place of worship where Mass has only been celebrated since 1903.
To meet the needs of the rapidly growing number of Catholics in Britain in the 19th century, the Vatican created a church hierarchy for the kingdom. The new archdiocese of Westminster laid the foundation stone for its cathedral in 1895 on the site of a demolished prison. In order to differentiate the building from the Gothic and classical styles characteristic of the Anglican church, the architect John Francis Bentley looked to Byzantine architecture. However, the interior decoration to match this style required a lot of mosaics and marble – and the financial means were not available. Although work has been continuing for decades, naked masonry is still visible on walls and vaults.
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Address Victoria Street, SW1P 1QW | Public Transport Victoria (Circle, District, Victoria Line) | Hours Cathedral Mon–Sun from 7am; tower, exhibition and treasury Mon–Fri 9.30am–5pm, Sat–Sun 9.30am–6pm| Tip The Albert (52 Victoria Street, Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 11am–10.30pm), a pub dating from 1864 with an original interior, is appreciated by members of Parliament for its hearty food and good ales.
In fact, this imperfection lends visual appeal to the cathedral. Dark raw surfaces adjoin pillars clad in smooth, precious marble. Golden mosaics shine in the chapels, and the pulpit is covered in sumptuous cut stone of many colours, but a glance upwards reveals brickwork blackened by the soot from candles. The fine relief carvings of the Stations of the Cross were produced by Eric Gill after 1914. Much of the interior has been splendidly adorned with over 100 different kinds of marble, but the continuation of the work depends on the flow of donations. In contrast to the eye-wateringly expensive admission fee for St Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey, Westminster Cathedral welcomes visitors without payment. With its red-and-white banded exterior and tall tower, this church is a beacon among the soulless modern glass façades on Victoria Street.
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