An imposing entrance is all that remains
Between the bustle of Villiers Street and the beauty of Victoria Embankment Gardens stands a relic from the days when the grand houses of noblemen lined The Strand. Behind them, gardens sloped down to the banks of the Thames, where each residence had its own boats moored at a pier, as it was much more comfortable to travel on the river than to jolt over badly paved streets in a coach. York Watergate was built in 1626 as the river entrance to York House for the Duke of Buckingham.
The handsome and elegant Buckingham was the chief minister – also, it was rumoured, the lover – of King James I. York House, which was the palace of the bishops of Norwich in the 13th century and later passed to the archbishops of York, was a convenient and fitting home, a short distance from his monarch’s Whitehall Palace and close to the houses of other high-ranking aristocrats. Buckingham’s son sold the estate to developers in 1672, but stipulated that the family name, at least, would remain: the streets to be built on the site were called, in accordance with his title »George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham«, Villiers Street and Buckingham Street (as they still are today); Duke Street and George Street (later renamed John Adam Street and York Buildings respectively); and, because the title needed its preposition, »Of Alley« (now the passageway York Place off Villiers Street).
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Address Watergate Walk, WC2N 6NE | Public Transport Embankment (Bakerloo, Circle, District, Northern Line) | Tip The famous Gordon’s Wine Bar, unchanged for decades, has provided dark corners for discreet conversations since 1890 (47 Villiers Street, Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun noon–10pm).
York House was torn down, but the watergate stayed. Lions, shells and the arms of the Villiers family adorn its Thames façade, and the family motto is inscribed on the back. Construction of the Embankment left the gate stranded, 150 metres from the river, but 19th century paintings depict it as it once looked. In scenes reminiscent of Venice, romantic by moonlight or festive for the procession of boats at Admiral Nelson’s funeral, it stands on the riverbank with water lapping at its steps.
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