Entertainment
Seoul has a jaw-dropping amount going on almost every day of the year, anything from traditional dance performances to classical music or live jazz. Theatrical performances are big earners for the city, and some have been so popular with international visitors that they’ve been exported to other lands. Nowhere in Seoul is too far from a gigantic cinema, though there are also a couple of smaller-scale arthouse operations. More local – or at least East Asian – in nature is the opportunity to belt out a few hits at a noraebang, a karaoke-style singing room. While gambling is technically illegal in Korea, there are a couple of fun ways to lose your money – in a casino or at the races.
INFORMATION
Listings Two good sources of entertainment listings are the
official city tourist site (
visitseoul.net) and 10 magazine ( 10mag.com),
while the English-language dailies have comprehensive weekend
supplements. For music and gig listings, check out koreagigguide.com.
CINEMA
Koreans love going to the movies – though the emphasis is firmly on Hollywood and Kollywood blockbusters – with most of the country having seen the major movies within a week of their release. CGV and Megabox are the two major cinema chains (sadly, neither has an English-language website); they show foreign films in their original language with Korean subtitles, though in most cinemas, local films are Korean-only. There are also a few options for those looking for something a little more arthouse, with some establishments catering to foreigners.
Ciné de Chef 씨네 드 쉐프
Nonhyeonno 848 
02 3446
0541; Apgujeong subway; map. A combination of restaurant and theatre, located in the bowels
of the Apgujeong CGV cinema
complex; from W70,000 per head. Daily 3–11pm.
Cinematheque 시네마테크
Nagwondong 284-6 02 741
9782; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Also going under the
name of ”Seoul Art Cinema”, this sits on top of the
Nagwon Arcade, a building that local authorities have
been planning to tear down for years. Now given a stay
of execution, the cinema here has a rolling calendar of
themed events, some of which are based around foreign
films; pop by and pick up a pamphlet. Tickets around
W8000.
CGV Yongsan Station complex
1544 1122; Yongsan subway; map. The Yongsan branch of
Korea‘s biggest cinema chain shows some Korean films
with English subtitles, as well as all the latest
blockbusters from abroad. Some films are shown in “4D”,
with wind machines, vibrating chairs and choreographed
scents making you feel part of the show. There’s also a
“Gold Class” theatre, designed to resemble the
first-class section on a plane, and seating (should that
be lying?) just forty. Lastly, some theatres here now
have cushy “couple” seats at the back, for snuggling up
with that special someone. Tickets W8000; 4D W21,000;
Gold Class W30,000.
Korea Film Archive 한국영상자료원
World Cup Bungno 400 02
0000, www.koreafilm.org; Digital Media City
subway; map. This institution
regularly screens films from home and abroad, and has a
large selection of Korean classics that can be rented
for viewing on the premises. Access is tricky; see their
website for details. Tickets usually free.
Megabox 메가박스
Samseongdong 159-1 1544
0070; Samseong subway; map. The chain’s huge COEX
branch, now very attractive after renovation in 2014,
shows some of its Kollywood hits with added English
subtitles. There are other branches all over the city.
Tickets usually W8000.
Mirospace 미로스페이스
Sinmunno 2-ga 1-153 02
3210 3358; Seodaemun subway; map. Interesting hundred-seat
venue showing arty films, usually from abroad. For once,
there’s no popcorn on offer, and after the movie
customers can glide into the sleek adjoining bar.
Tickets W8000.
Sangsangmadang 상상마당
Eoulmadangno 65 02 330
6243; Sangsu subway; map. The basement of this
arts complex has some arty English-language screenings,
of which around half are from abroad. Interestingly,
they try to show films whose themes match what’s on show
in the second-floor gallery. Tickets W8000.
THEATRE AND PERFORMANCE ARTS
Stage buffs will have plenty to choose from in Seoul. Most popular with foreign travellers are traditional performances and musicals; the latter tend to be based in dedicated theatres.
Battle B-Boy 배틀 비보이
Hongdae B-Boy Theater, Wausanno
121 02 323 5233, sjbboys.com; Hongdae subway; map. One way to get into the
B-Boy breakdancing still enthralling the nation, this
long-running stage concept gets refreshed every couple
of years, but always has some pretty incredible dance
routines. Tickets W55,000. Performances Wed–Fri 8pm, Sat 6pm & Sun
4pm.
Chongdong Theatre 정동극장
Jeongdonggil 43 02 751
1500, chongdong.com; City Hall subway; map. “Miso”, an 80min
traditional show of song and dance, has been extremely
popular with foreign visitors for many a year (tickets
W40,000), while “Giparang” is newer, and tells a love
story from the Silla dynasty (tickets W30,000).
Performances are in Korean, though English subtitles
appear next to the stage. Miso
Tues–Sun 4pm & 8pm; Giparang Tues–Sun
7.30pm.
Dongsoong Art Center 동숭 아트센터
Dongsungdong 1-5 02 766
3390, dsartcenter.co.kr; Hyehwa subway; map. This well-established
Daehangno arts complex puts on some of Seoul’s best
experimental drama, though as performances are in Korean
only you’ll need some language skills or an open
mind.
Jump 점프
Cinecore Theater, Jeongdong 22
02 722 3995, hijump.co.kr; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Ever wondered what a
family entirely made up of martial arts experts would be
like? Experience all the inevitable jumps and kicks in
this entertaining musical. Tickets W40,000. Performances Mon 8pm; Tues–Sat 4pm
& 8pm, Sun 3pm & 6pm.
Korea House 한국의집
Toegyero 10 02 2266
9101, koreahouse.or.kr; Chungmuro subway; map. Highly polished
traditional performances from some of Korea’s top
artistes, combined with some of Seoul’s best food: this is one of the city’s most
popular nights out. The wonderful shows include fan
dances, pansori opera and the long-ribboned hats of the
“farmers’ dance”. Tickets W50,000. Performances daily at 6.30pm &
8.30pm.
Namsan Gugakdang 남간 국악당
Toegyero 34-gil 28 02
2261 0500; Chungmuro subway; map. Those looking for a
traditional Korean performance should make this their
first port of call. Part of the Namsangol
complex, its shows revolve around gugak, an ancient style of Korean music, but the
savvy curators bring a pleasant variety to the offerings
with regular themed events of song, music, dance or a
combination of the three. Ticket prices vary but are
usually in the region of W30,000.
Nanta 난타
Myeongdong 2-ga 50-14 02
739 8288, nanta.co.kr; City Hall subway; map. This madcap
kitchen-based musical has gone down a storm since
opening in 1997 (making it Korea’s longest-running
show), with songs, circus tricks and all sorts of
utensil drumming mixed with a nice line in audience
participation. Tickets W40,000. Performances daily at 2pm, 5pm & 8pm.
Sejong Centre 세종 문화 회관
Sejongdaero 175 02 399
1114, sejongpac.or.kr; Gwanghwamun subway;
map. Gigantic venue offering
a truly diverse array of music: everything from
traditional Korean gugak to concerts from world-famous pianists.
There’s something going on every night of the week;
check the website for details.
Seoul Arts Centre 예술의 정당
Seochodong 700 02 580
1300, sac.or.kr; Nambu Bus Terminal subway;
map. The home of Korea’s
national ballet and opera companies, as well as the
symphony orchestra, this rambling complex always has
something interesting going on. See website for details
of upcoming events.
PANSORI
Usually marketed to foreigners as “Korean opera”, pansori performances are a modern-day derivative of the country’s shamanic past. Songs and incantations chanted to fend off evil spirits or ensure a good harvest slowly mutated over the years into ritualized presentations. As might be expected, the themes also evolved, with tales of love and despair replacing requests to spirits unseen.
A good pansori may go on for hours, but each segment will be performed by a cast of just two – a female singer (the sorikkun) and a male percussionist (gosu). The sorikkun holds aloft a paper fan, which she folds, unfolds and waves about to emphasize lyrics or a change of scene. While the gosu drums out his minimalist finger taps on the janggo, he gives his singer words (or, more commonly, grunts) of encouragement known as chuimsae, to which the audience are expected to add their own. The most common are “chalhanda!” and “olshi-gu!”, which are roughly equivalent to “you’re doing good!”, and “hm!”, a grunt acknowledging appreciation, usually delivered with a refined nod. Just follow the Korean lead, and enjoy the show.
MUSIC
Seoul isn’t exactly renowned for the quality of its music. From pre-teen girls to bad-boy bike nuts, most of the country listens to sugary K-pop, generic hip-hop and little else. There’s a decent little indie scene centred around Hongdae, though several once-great places have shut their doors in recent years. In addition, there are a few venues where you can hear more highbrow offerings such as jazz or classical music, and an ever-increasing number of international mainstream acts are arriving in Korea.
GIG VENUES
Badabie 바다비
Donggyodong 182-5 02
4454 2343; Sinchon subway; map. A short walk from
central Hongdae, this venue showcases the talents of
bands from the local universities and beyond – an
eclectic mix of rock, punk, folk and more. There’s
not a lot of distance between performers and
spectators, making for a more immersive experience.
Entrance fee is up to W15,000; bring your own
drinks. Wed–Sun
7pm–midnight.
Bbang 빵
Seogyodong 327-18 010
8910 1089; Hongik University subway;
map. Another good place
to get a handle on local talent, this relaxed venue
has been going since the mid-1990s – albeit in a few
different locations. There are usually several bands
on most nights; entry is around W15,000. Wed–Sun 6.30–11pm.
FF 클럽FF
Seogyodong 407-8 010
9025 3407; Sangsu subway; map. Both Fs stand for
“funky”, though you’re more likely to see some good
ol’ rock at this highly popular live music venue. A
great many of the bands are foreign, bringing their
pals and Korean hangers-on, then staying for the DJ
sets afterwards. A great place to make new friends.
Entry W10,000–15,000. Tues–Thurs & Sun 8–11pm, Fri & Sat
6pm–6am.
LARGE PERFORMANCE VENUES
Ax 악스
Gwangjangdong 319-33
02 457 5114; Gwangnaru
subway; map. With room for 2000
spectators, this is where many international bands
play during their time in Seoul. Ticket prices
vary.
Olympic Arena 올림픽 아레나 Bangidong; Sports Complex subway; map. With a capacity of more than 10,000, this is the venue of choice when the big-hitters play Korea – Lady Gaga, Oasis, Taylor Swift and Bruno Mars have all performed here. Ticket prices vary.
JAZZ VENUES
All That Jazz 올댓재즈
Itaewondong 112-4 02
795 5701, allthatjazz.kr; Itaewon subway; map. An Itaewon
institution, this place has been attracting jazz
lovers for donkey’s years. The atmosphere is fun,
and audience interaction is commonplace – some
spectators have ended up playing on stage with the
band. Tickets usually W5000. Performances begin Mon–Thurs at 8.30pm, Fri
& Sat at 6.30pm, 8.30pm & 11.30pm, &
Sun at 6.30pm & 8.30pm.
Club Evans 클럽 에반스
Seogyodong 407-3 02
337 8361; Sangsu subway; map. Hongdae’s most
popular jazz venue by a mile, this is small enough
to generate some decent acoustics, but large enough
to create a good atmosphere. The acts are usually of
more than acceptable quality, and the experience
surprisingly refined for this nightclub-filled
street. Tickets usually W5000–7000. Daily 7pm–midnight.
Once in a Blue Moon 원스인어블루문 Seolleungno 824 02
549 5490; Apgujeong subway; map. Perhaps the most
renowned of Seoul’s many jazz bars, and certainly
the closest approximation to a Western venue. The
music spans the full gamut of styles, played while
customers dine on French or Mexican cuisine,
accompanied by a choice from the lengthy wine and
cocktail lists. Admission free. Performances start at
7.30pm.
SINGING ROOMS
Karaoke may be a Japanese concept, but is even more common in Korea: you’ll find a noraebang (노래방; literally “song room”) on almost every street in Seoul. These “singing rooms” are wildly popular with people of all ages, and usually cost around W15,000 an hour between a group. The system is different from what Westerners may be used to – you don’t sing in front of a crowd, but in a small room with your friends, where you’ll find sofas, a television, books full of songs to choose from and a couple of maracas or tambourines to play. Foreigners are often intimidated at first, but after a few drinks it can be tough to get the microphone out of people’s hands.
Luxury Su 수 노래방
Eoulmadangno 67 02 322
3111; Sangsu subway; map. Next door to Sangsangmadang, this noraebang has achieved particular fame thanks to its
sumptuously decorated rooms, and even a few with
floor-to-ceiling windows visible from the street –
show-offs, this is your big chance. Up to W20,000 per
hour, per room at peak time. Daily 24hr.
GAMBLING
Seven Luck Casino 세븐럭 카시노
Teheranno 87-gil 58 02
3466 6100; Samseong subway; map. Foreigner-only casino in
the Coex
complex; bring along your passport as proof
that you’re not about to break the law. There’s another
branch of the same casino north of the river in the
Millennium Hilton. Casual
attire permitted. Daily
24hr.
Seoul Racecourse Park 세븐럭 카시노
Teheranno 87-gil 58 1566
3333; Seoul Racecourse Park
subway. Gamble on the gee-gees at this
venue just south of Seoul, near Seoul Grand
Park. It can be quite fun, and you’ll
also be able to bet on races from sister tracks in Jeju
and Busan, which are simulcasted on large screens. Entry
W2000. Sat & Sun
only.