Around Seoul
There’s no reason for your trip to begin and end with the city centre, since there’s a wonderful array of sights within easy day-tripping range of the capital. Most popular is a visit to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) separating North and South Korea, a 4km-wide buffer zone often described as one of the most dangerous places on Earth. It’s even possible to step across the border here, in the infamous Joint Security Area. The DMZ forms the northern boundary of Gyeonggi (경기), a province that encircles Seoul. This is one of the world’s most densely populated areas – including the capital, over 25 million people live here.
Most cities here are commuter-filled nonentities, but a couple are worthy of a visit. Incheon, to the west of Seoul, was the first city in the country to be opened up to international trade, and remains Korea’s most important link with the outside world thanks to its hub airport and ferry terminals. It sits on the shores of the West Sea, which contains myriad tranquil islands. Heading south of Seoul you come to Suwon, home to a renowned fortress, and useful as a springboard to several nearby sights. Further south again is the small city of Gongju, now a sleepy place but once capital of the famed Baekje dynasty.
BEST OF AROUND SEOUL
The DMZ Walk through a tunnel beneath the world’s most heavily fortified border, or take a couple of steps into official North Korean territory in the eerie Joint Security Area.
Incheon Gaze out over the Lego-like jumble of container ships surrounding this city, before filling your stomach at Korea’s largest Chinatown.
West Sea islands It’s hard to believe that the clean air, homely villages and thriving fishing industry of these peaceful islands can be easily visited on a day-trip from Seoul.
Suwon Scramble up a UNESCO-listed fortress wall, and watch the colourful ceremonies and dancing at a nearby folk village.
Yangsu-ri Seoul’s best sunsets can be found east of the city centre, on this charming, mountain-surrounded island.
The Demilitarized Zone
As you head slowly north out of Seoul through the traffic, the seemingly endless urban jungle gradually diminishes in size before disappearing altogether. You’re now well on the way to a place where the mists of the Cold War still linger, and one that could well have been ground zero for the Third World War – the DEMILITARIZED ZONE. More commonly referred to as “the DMZ”, this no man’s land is a 4km-wide buffer zone that came into being at the end of the Korean War in 1953. It sketches an unbroken spiky line across the peninsula from coast to coast, separating the two Koreas and their diametrically opposed ideologies. Although it sounds forbidding, it’s actually possible to enter this zone, and take a few tentative steps into North Korean territory – thousands of civilians do so every month, though only as part of a tightly controlled tour. Elsewhere are a few platforms from which the curious can stare across the border, and a tunnel built by the North, which you can enter.
Brief history
For the first year of the Korean War (1950–53), the tide of control yo-yoed back and forth across the peninsula. Then in June 1951, General Ridgeway of the United Nations Command got word that the Korean People’s Army (KPA) would “not be averse to” armistice talks. These took place in the city of Kaesong, now a major North Korean city, but were soon shifted south to Panmunjeom, a tiny farming village that suddenly found itself the subject of international attention.
Cease-fire talks went on for two long years and often degenerated into venomous verbal battles littered with expletives. One of the most contentious issues was the repatriation of prisoners of war, and a breakthrough came in April 1953, when terms were agreed; exchanges took place on a bridge over the River Sachon, now referred to as the Bridge of No Return. “Operation Little Switch” came first, seeing the transfer of sick and injured prisoners (notably, six thousand returned to the North, while only a tenth of that number walked the other way); “Operation Big Switch” took place shortly afterwards, when the soldiers on both sides were asked to make a final choice on their preferred destination. Though no peace treaty was ever signed, representatives of the KPA, the United Nations Command (UNC) and the Chinese People’s Liberation Army put their names to an armistice on July 27, 1953; South Korean delegates refused to do so.
An uneasy truce has prevailed since the end of the war – the longest military deadlock in history – but there have been regular spats along the way. In the early 1960s a small number of disaffected American soldiers defected to the North, after somehow managing to make it across the DMZ alive, while in 1968 the crew of the captured USS Pueblo walked south over the Bridge of No Return after protracted negotiations. The most serious confrontation took place in 1976, when two American soldiers were killed in the Axe Murder Incident, and in 1984, a young tour leader from the Soviet Union fled from North Korea across the border, triggering a short gun battle that left three soldiers dead.
THE AXE MURDER INCIDENT AND OPERATION PAUL BUNYAN
Relations between the two Koreas took a sharp nose dive in 1976, when two American soldiers were killed by axe-wielding North Korean soldiers because of a poplar tree which stood next to the Bridge of No Return: there was a UNC outpost beside the bridge, but its direct line of sight to the next Allied checkpoint was blocked by the leaves of the tree, so on August 18 a five-man American detail was dispatched to perform some trimming. Nobody is quite sure how this military gardening descended into violence, since both sides claim to have acted in self-defence; the American story is accepted in the West, though the key moments are missing from their video of the incident. Whoever made the first attack, KPA troops were soon attacking UNC personnel, in some cases using the axes the team had been using to prune the tree. The attack lasted less than a minute, but claimed the life of First Lieutenant Mark Barrett, as well as Captain Bonifas, who was apparently killed instantly with a single karate chop to the neck (one of the few facts that both sides agree on).
Three days later, the US launched Operation Paul Bunyan, with a convoy of two dozen UNC vehicles streaming towards the poplar tree, carrying more than eight hundred men, some trained in taekwondo, and all armed to the teeth. These were backed up by attack helicopters, fighter planes and B-52 bombers, while an aircraft carrier had also been stationed just off the Korean shore. This carefully managed operation drew no response from the KPA, and the tree was successfully cut down.
The Joint Security Area
“The visit to the Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom will entail entry into a hostile area, and possible injury or death as a direct result of enemy action”
There’s nowhere in the world quite like the Joint Security Area (“the JSA”), a settlement squatting in the middle of Earth’s most heavily fortified frontier, and the only place in DMZ territory where visitors are permitted. Visits here will create a curious dichotomy of feelings: on the one hand, you’ll be in what was once memorably described by Bill Clinton as “the scariest place on Earth”, but on the other hand as well as soldiers, barbed wire and brutalist buildings you’ll see trees, hear birdsong and smell fresh air. The only way to get into the JSA is on a guided tour, which takes you to the village of Panmunjeom (판문점) in jointly held territory – though this has dwindled to almost nothing since it hosted the armistice talks in 1951.
Once inside the JSA, you’ll see seven buildings at the centre of the complex, three of which are meeting rooms. If you are lucky, you’ll be allowed to enter one of these to earn some serious travel kudos – the chance to step into North Korea. The official Line of Control runs through the centre of these cabins, the corners of which are guarded by South Korean soldiers, who are sometimes joined by their Northern counterparts, the enemies almost eyeball to eyeball. Note the microphones on the table inside the room – anything you say can be picked up by North Korean personnel. The rooms are closed to visitors when meetings are scheduled.
From a lookout point outside the cabins you can soak up views of the North, including the huge flag and shell-like buildings of Propaganda Village. You may also be able to make out the jamming towers it uses to keep out unwanted imperialist signals – check the reception on your phone. Closer to the lookout point, within JSA territory, the Bridge of No Return was the venue for POW exchange at the end of the Korean War, and also for James Bond in Die Another Day – though for obvious reasons it was filmed elsewhere.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: THE JOINT SECURITY AREA
Guided tours The only way to visit the Joint Security Area is on a guided tour. Tours start just outside the DMZ at Camp Bonifas, an American army base just over an hour from Seoul. Here you’ll meet your guides (usually young, amiable recruits from the infantry), and be given a briefing session telling you about a number of restrictions, most imposed by the United Nations Command. Be warned that schedules can change in an instant, and remember that you’ll be entering an extremely dangerous area – this is no place for fooling around or wandering off by yourself.
Dress code An official dress code applies in the JSA (no flip-flops, ripped jeans, “clothing deemed faddish” or “shorts that expose the buttocks”), but in reality most things are OK.
Entrance requirements For all tours to the DMZ you’ll need your passport. Citizens of certain countries are not allowed into DMZ territory, including those from most nations in the Middle East, some in Africa, and communist territories such as Vietnam, Hong Kong and mainland China.
Photography In certain areas photography is not allowed – you’ll be told when to put your camera away.
TOUR COMPANIES
There are a great number of companies that sell tours from Seoul to the DMZ; most speak enough English to accept reservations by telephone. Note that some tours are much cheaper than others – these probably won’t visit the JSA, the most interesting place in the DMZ, so check to see if it’s on the schedule: expect to pay around W77,000 to include the JSA. Most tours also include lunch. We’ve listed a couple of recommended operators here, but you’ll find pamphlets from other companies in your hotel lobby.
Panmunjom Travel
Center 
02 771 5593, 
koreadmztour.com. Offers
the regular tour, plus a session with a
North Korean defector willing to answer
questions about life on the other side.
Runs from the Lotte
Hotel, near Euljiro 1-ga subway
(line 2). W77,000
USO 02 6383 2570, koridoor.co.kr. Run in
conjunction with the American military,
these are the best tours to go for, and
include a 20min presentation by a US
soldier in Camp Bonifas. Book at least
four days in advance. Runs from Camp Kim
near Namyeong subway (line 1).
$80
DAESEONGDONG AND “PROPAGANDA VILLAGE”
The DMZ is home to two small settlements, one on each side of the Line of Control. With the southern village rich and tidy and its northern counterpart empty and sinister, both can be viewed as a microcosm of the countries they belong to.
The southern village – Daeseongdong (대성동) – is a small farming community, but one off-limits to all but those living or working here. These are among the richest farmers in Korea: they pay no rent or tax, and DMZ produce fetches big bucks at markets around the country. Technically, residents have to spend 240 days of the year at home, but most commute here from their condos in Seoul to “punch in”, and get hired hands to do the dirty work; if they’re staying, they must be back in town by nightfall, and have their doors and windows locked and bolted by midnight. Women are allowed to marry into this tight society, but men are not; those who choose to raise their children here also benefit from a school that at the last count had twelve teachers, and only eight students.
North of the line of control is Kijongdong (기정동), an odd collection of empty buildings referred to by American soldiers as “Propaganda Village”. The purpose of its creation appears to have been to show citizens in the South the communist paradise that they’re missing – a few dozen “villagers” arrive every morning by bus, spend the day taking part in wholesome activities and letting their children play games, then leave again in the evening. With the aid of binoculars, you’ll be able to see that none of the buildings actually has any windows; lights turned on in the evening also seem to suggest that they’re devoid of floors. Above the village flies a huge North Korean flag, so large that it required a fifty-man detail to hoist, until the recent installation of a motor. It sits atop a 160m-high flagpole, the world’s tallest, and the eventual victor in a bizarre contest between the two Koreas, each hell-bent on having the loftier flag.
The Third Tunnel of Aggression
제3땅굴 • Only accessible as part of a tour
A short drive south of Panmunjeom, the Third Tunnel of Aggression is one of four tunnels dug under the DMZ by North Korean soldiers in apparent preparation for an invasion of the South. North Korea has denied responsibility, claiming them to be coal mines (though they are strangely devoid of coal), but to be on the safe side the border area is now monitored from coast to coast by soldiers equipped with drills and sensors. The tunnel was discovered in 1974 by a South Korean army patrol unit; tip-offs from North Korean defectors and some strategic drilling soon led to the discovery of another two tunnels, and a fourth was found in 1990. The third tunnel is the closest to Seoul, which would have been just a day’s march away if the North’s invasion plan had succeeded.
Many visitors emerge from the depths underwhelmed – it is, after all, only a tunnel, even if you get to walk under DMZ territory up to the Line of Control that marks the actual border. On busy days it can become uncomfortably crowded – not a place for the claustrophobic.
Dorasan observatory and station
도라전망대 • Observatory Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • Free • Light-rail from Seoul station to Dorasan station, at the end of the Gyeongui line, or “DMZ Train” from Seoul station (departs Seoul at 8.30am & 1.15pm, returns at 12.10pm & 5.30pm; Tues–Fri W8700; Sat & Sun W8900)
South of the Third Tunnel is Dorasan observatory, from where visitors can stare at the North through binoculars. The observatory is included on many DMZ tours, but unlike the JSA you can also visit independently.
The gleaming, modern Dorasan station was built in early 2007 at the end of the Gyeonghui light-rail line. The line continues to China, via Pyongyang: as one sign says, “it’s not the last station from the South, but the first station toward the North”. In May 2007, the first train in decades rumbled up the track to Kaesong in North Korea (another went in the opposite direction on the east-coast line), while regular freight services started in December. Such connections were soon cut, but there remains hope that this track will one day handle high-speed services from Seoul to Pyongyang; in the meantime, a map on the wall shows which parts of the world Seoul will be connected to should the line ever see regular service, and there’s a much-photographed sign pointing to Pyongyang.
Paju and around
파주
The Seoul satellite city of PAJU contains some of the most interesting sights in the border area and, for once, they do not revolve solely around North Korea. The Paju Book City is a publisher-heavy area more notable for its architecture than anything literary, while the Heyri Art Valley is a twee little artistic commune.
Paju Book City
파주 출판도시
문화재단 • pajubookcity.org • Bus #200 (every 30min;
1hr) from Hapjeong subway (lines 2 & 6)
Quirky Paju Book City is ostensibly a publishing district. Many publishers were encouraged to move here from central Seoul (though a whole glut of smaller printing houses remain in the fascinating alleyways around Euljiro) and most of the major companies based here have bookstores on their ground levels. However, the main attraction for visitors is the area’s excellent modern architecture – quite a rarity in this land of the sterile high-rise. There’s no focus as such, but strolling around the quiet streets dotted with great little book cafés is enjoyable.
Heyri Art Valley
헤이리
문화예술마을 • heyri.net • Bus #200 (every 30min; 45min)
from Hapjeong subway (lines 2 & 6)
Seven kilometres to the north of Paju Book City, similar architectural delights are on offer at Heyri Art Valley. This artists’ village is home to dozens of small galleries, and its countryside air makes it an increasingly popular day-trip for young, arty Seoulites. They come here to shop for paintings or quirky souvenirs, or to sip a latte in one of the complex’s several cafés. However, such mass-market appeal means that the atmosphere here in general is more twee than edgy.
Incheon
인천
Almost every international visitor to Seoul passes through INCHEON, Korea’s third most populous city. It’s home to the country’s main airport and receives all Korea’s ferries from China, though most new arrivals head straight on to Seoul as soon as they arrive. However, in view of its colourful recent history, it’s worth at least a day-trip from the capital. This was where Korea’s “Hermit Kingdom” finally crawled out of self-imposed isolation in the late nineteenth century and opened itself up to international trade, spurred on by the Japanese following similar events in their own country (the “Meiji Restoration”). Incheon was also the landing site for Douglas MacArthur and his troops in a manoeuvre that turned the tide of the Korean War.
Incheon’s most interesting district is Jung-gu, home to Korea’s only official Chinatown and Jayu Park, where a statue of MacArthur gazes out over the sea. Downhill from here, you can visit a couple of former Japanese banks in a quiet but cosmopolitan part of town, where many Japanese lived during the colonial era. Lastly, Incheon is also a jumping-off point for ferries to a number of islands in the West Sea.
GENERAL MACARTHUR AND THE INCHEON LANDINGS
“We drew up a list of every natural and geographic handicap… Incheon had ’em all.”
On the morning of September 15, 1950, the most daring move of the Korean War was made, an event that was to alter the course of the conflict entirely, and is now seen as one of the greatest military manoeuvres in history. At this point the Allied forces had been pushed by the North Korean People’s Army into a small corner of the peninsula around Busan, but General Douglas MacArthur was convinced that a single decisive movement behind enemy lines could be enough to turn the tide.
MacArthur wanted to attempt an amphibious landing on the Incheon coast, but his plan was greeted with scepticism by many of his colleagues – both the South Korean and American armies were severely under-equipped, Incheon was heavily fortified, and its natural island-peppered defences and fast tides made it an even more dangerous choice.
However, the plan went ahead and the Allied forces performed successful landings at three Incheon beaches, during which time North Korean forces were shelled heavily to quell any counterattacks. The city was taken with relative ease, the People’s Army having not anticipated an attack on this scale in this area, reasoning that if one were to happen, it would take place at a more sensible location further down the coast. MacArthur had correctly deduced that a poor movement of supplies was his enemy’s Achilles heel – landing behind enemy lines gave Allied forces a chance to cut the supply line to KPA forces further south, and Seoul was duly retaken on September 25.
Despite the Incheon victory and its consequences, MacArthur is not viewed by Koreans – or, indeed, the world in general – in an entirely positive light, feelings exacerbated by the continued American military presence in the country. While many in Korea venerate the General as a hero, repeated demonstrations have called for the tearing down of his statue in Jayu Park, denouncing him as a “war criminal who massacred civilians during the Korean War”, and whose statue “greatly injures the dignity of the Korean people”. Documents obtained after his eventual dismissal from the Army suggest that he would even have been willing to bring nuclear weapons into play – on December 24, 1950, he requested the shipment of 38 atomic bombs to Korea, intending to string them “across the neck of Manchuria”. Douglas MacArthur remains a controversial character, even in death.
Jung-gu
중구 • Incheon subway (line 1)
Jung-gu district lies on the western fringe of Incheon, though it forms the centre of the city’s tourist appeal. On exiting the gate at Incheon station, you’ll immediately be confronted by the city’s gentrified Chinatown. Demarcated by the requisite oriental gate, it’s a pleasant and surprisingly quiet area to walk around with a belly full of Chinese food.
Jayu Park
자유 공원 • 24hr • Free
Within easy walking distance of the subway station, Jayu Park is most notable for its statue of General Douglas MacArthur, staring proudly out over the seas that he conquered during the Korean War. Also in the park, the Korean–American Centennial Monument is made up of eight black triangular shards that stretch up towards each other but never quite touch – feel free to make your own comparisons with the relationship between the two countries. Views from certain parts of the park expose Incheon’s port, a colourful maze of cranes and container ships that provide a vivid reminder of the city’s trade links with its neighbours across the seas.
The Street of Culture and History
역사문화의 거리
The city has tried to evoke its colonial past on the Street of Culture and History by adding new wooden colonial-style facades to the street’s buildings. The effect is slightly bizarre, though the buildings do, indeed, look decidedly pretty. Most of the businesses that received a facelift were simple shops such as confectioners, laundries and electrical stores; many are still going, though they are now augmented by bars, arty cafés and the like.
The former Japanese banks
Sinporo 23-gil • Both daily 9am–6pm • W1500 combined ticket
One block south of the Street of Culture and History is a genuinely cultural and historic road, where you’ll find a few distinctive Japanese colonial buildings which are surprisingly Western in appearance (that being the Japanese architectural fashion of the time). Three of the buildings were originally banks, of which two have now been turned into small museums. The former 58th Bank of Japan contains interesting photo and video exhibits of life in colonial times, while the former 1st Bank down the road has a less interesting display of documents, flags and the like. Check out, too, the small outdoor display area between the two banks, where you’ll find some fascinating pictures taken here in the 1890s, on what was then a quiet, dusty road almost entirely devoid of traffic, peopled with white-robed gents in horsehair hats – images of a Korea long gone.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: INCHEON
By plane Incheon international airport is on an island west of the city and connected to the mainland by bridge: there are dedicated airport bus connections to Seoul and all over the country. Several limousine bus routes connect the airport with central Incheon, or take city bus #306 to Incheon subway station.
By ferry Incheon has three ferry terminals, served by ferries from China and some Korean islands in the West Sea. From all three terminals, it’s an easy taxi-ride to Jung-gu.
By subway Despite the city’s size, there’s no train station: Incheon is served by subway line 1 from Seoul (1hr), though check that your train is bound for Incheon, as the line splits when leaving the capital.
Tourist information The helpful booth outside Incheon subway
station (daily 9am–6pm; 032 773
2225) usually has an
English-speaker; further offices can be found in
the ferry terminals.
ACCOMMODATION
Atti 아띠
호텔 Songhak 1-dong 9-6
032 772 5233, attihotel.com. This
little gem is tucked away in a quiet area behind
the Jung-gu district office, near Tochon restaurant. Recently renovated, it is
perhaps a little too trendy – with glass
partitions that make the bathrooms too visible.
However, the surrounding area is highly
pleasant, away from the big-city bustle. W60,000
Harbor Park 하버파크 호텔 Jemullyangno 217
032 770 9500, harborparkhotel.com.
Value-for-money option in Jung-gu, with
excellent service and great sea views.
Unfortunately, the standard rooms can be
extremely small, so try to check a few if
possible; suites, on the other hand, are
generously sized. W125,000
Paradise 향만성 Jemullyangno 257
032 762 5181, incheon.paradisehotel.co.kr.
Though service can be a little ropey at times,
and the crane-filled views may not appeal to
some, this is the best hotel in the area.
Despite being just a stone’s throw from Incheon
subway station, the hotel entrance is uphill and
hard to reach, so you may prefer to take a taxi.
W250,000
EATING
Rarely for a Korean city, and perhaps uniquely for a Korean port, Incheon isn’t renowned for its food, though the presence of a large and thriving Chinatown is a boon to visitors. Don’t expect the food to be terribly authentic, since Koreans have their own take on Chinese cuisine. Top choices here, and available at every single restaurant, are sweet-and-sour pork (탕수육; tangsuyuk), fried rice topped with a fried egg and black-bean paste (볶음밥; beokkeumbap), spicy seafood broth (짬뽕; jjambbong), and the undisputed number one, jjajangmyeon (자장면), noodles topped with black-bean paste.
Fog City 포그시티 Jungangdong 1-ga 19-1
032 766 9024.
Steakhouse-cum-café which stands out in the
wider Chinatown area. The coffee’s poor, but the
pizzas are fine (W16,000), as is the clam
chowder (W6000). Pride of place, however, goes
to their excellent homemade sourdough bread, or
a weird-but-tasty variety made with makgeolli. Tues–Sun
11am–10pm.
Gonghwachun 공화춘 Chinatown-no 43
032 765 0571.
This is where Korea’s jjajangmyeon fad started – it has been served here
since the 1890s. W5000 will buy you a bowl, or
you could try the sautéed shredded beef with
green pepper (W20,000), and finish off your meal
with fried, honey-dipped rice balls. Daily 11am–11pm.
Mandabok 만다복 Bukseongdong 2-ga 9-11
032 773 3838.
There are various Chinese dishes on offer at
this vaunted, authentic Chinatown institution,
whose interior is resplendent with cheesy golden
wallpaper. The shark fin, scallop and abalone
dishes are pricey and made for small groups,
though single diners and those on a budget can
enjoy the rice staples, such as the shredded
chilli pork (W7000). Daily 10am–10pm.
Tochon 토촌
Songhakdong 1-ga 10
032 464 5511. A
wonderfully rustic warren, whose ground floor is
surrounded on three sides by interconnected fish
tanks. Try the ddeok-galbi Korean burgers for W20,000, filling
jeongsik (set meals) from W20,000, or a meonggae
bibimbap. Daily
10am–10pm.
West Sea Islands
Incheon’s perforated western coast topples into a body of water known as the West Sea to Koreans, and the Yellow Sea to the rest of the world. Land rises again across the waves in the form of dozens of islands, almost all of which have remained pleasantly green and unspoilt; some also have excellent beaches. Life here is predominantly fishing-based and dawdles by at a snail’s pace – a world away from Seoul and its environs, despite a few being close enough to be visited on a day-trip. The easiest to reach are Ganghwado, a slightly over-busy dot of land studded with ancient dolmens, and its far quieter neighbour Seongmodo, both of which are best accessed directly from Seoul. However, you’ll have to head to Incheon for ferries to the beautiful island of Deokjeokdo, which is sufficiently far away from the capital to provide a perfect escape.
Ganghwado
강화도 • Bus #3000 (every 15–20min; 1hr 40min) from Sinchon subway in Seoul (line 2); walk directly up from exit 1
Unlike most West Sea islands, GANGHWADO is close enough to the mainland to be connected by road – buses run regularly from Seoul to Ganghwa-eup (강화읍), the island’s ugly main settlement; from here local buses head to destinations across the island, though the place is so small that journeys rarely take more than thirty minutes. While this accessibility means that Ganghwado lacks the beauty of some of its more distant cousins, there’s plenty to see. One look at a map should make clear the strategic importance of the island, which not only sits at the mouth of Seoul’s main river, the Han, but whose northern flank is within a frisbee throw of the North Korean border.
Before the latest conflict, this unfortunate isle also saw battles with Mongol, Manchu, French, American and Japanese forces, among others. However, Ganghwado’s foremost sights date from even further back – a clutch of dolmens scattered around the northern part of the island dates from the first century BC and is now on UNESCO’s World Heritage list.
Goindol
고인돌 • 24hr • Free • From Ganghwa-eup, take one of the buses bound for Changhu-ri, which depart every hour or so, and tell the driver where you want to get off
Misty remnants from bygone millennia, Ganghwa’s dolmens are overground burial chambers consisting of flat capstones supported by three or more vertical megaliths. The Korean peninsula contains more than 30,000 of these ancient tombs – almost half of the world’s total – and Ganghwado has one of the highest concentrations in the country. Most can only be reached by car or bike, though one, Goindol, is situated near a main road and accessible by bus. This granite tomb sits unobtrusively in a field, as it has for centuries: a stone skeleton long divested of its original earth covering, with a large 5m by 7m capstone.
Oepo
외포 • Buses (hourly; 25min) from Ganghwa-eup; some come straight through from Sinchon
Small and delightfully old-fashioned, the settlement of OEPO (pronounced “Way-paw”) on the island’s west coast is a little like stepping into Korea in the 1970s, before the country’s “economic miracle” mopped up old traditions by the bucketload. There are no particular sights, so you can just wander around soaking up the atmosphere, stopping at the appealing little fish market near the dock, with restaurants all around it.
Seongmodo
석모도 • Ferries (every 30min; 10min) run from Oepo’s tiny terminal on Ganghwado; the last one back is at 8.30pm. Buses to Bomunsa (15min) meet the ferries
The wonderfully peaceful island of SEONGMODO lies just a short ferry trip across the water from Ganghwado; ornithophobes should note that large flocks of seagulls tend to circumnavigate the vessel for the entire journey, waiting to catch thrown crisps. The island’s main sight is the charming temple of Bomunsa (보문사), a five-minute walk uphill from the bus stop, with a small tearoom at its entrance. A mountain path behind the temple leads to a clutch of small grottoes that function as Buddhist shrines and boast wonderful sea views. There are restaurants (plus simple accommodation) around both the temple and ferry terminal, as well as bicycle rental immediately off the ferry ramp for those with the muscle to pump up and down the island’s hilly roads.
Deokjeokdo
덕적도 • Two fast ferries (1hr) run from Incheon’s Yeonan pier, departing at 9.30am & 2.30pm; slower ferries (1 daily; 2hr 30min) leave at 8am from the same terminal
Possibly the prettiest and most tranquil of the West Sea isles, DEOKJEOKDO feels a world away from Seoul, though it’s quite possible to visit from the capital on a day-trip. There’s little in the way of sightseeing, save an easy climb up to the island’s main peak, and not much to do, but that’s just the point – the island has a couple of stunning beaches and some gorgeous mountain trails, and makes a refreshing break from the hustle and bustle of the mainland. Around the ferry berth are a few shops, restaurants and guesthouses, while a bus meets the ferries and makes its way round to Seopori Beach (서포리 해수욕장) on the other, quieter, side of the island – also home to a few guesthouses.
Suwon and around
수원
Heading south from Seoul by train, the capital’s dense urban sprawl barely thins before you arrive in SUWON, a city with an impressive history of its own, best embodied by the gigantic fortress at its centre. Suwon, in fact, came close to usurping Seoul as Korea’s seat of power following the murder of prince Sado, but though it failed to overtake the capital, the city grew in importance in a way that remains visible to this day. Its fortress walls, built in the late eighteenth century, once enclosed the whole of Suwon, but from the structure’s upper reaches you’ll see just how far the city has spread, the never-ending hotchpotch of buildings now forming one of Korea’s largest urban centres. Making up for the dearth of sights in Suwon itself is an interesting and varied range of possibilities in a corridor stretching east of the city. Twenty kilometres away, the Korean Folk Village is a vaguely authentic portrayal of traditional Korean life; though too sugary for some, it redeems itself with some high-quality dance, music and gymnastic performances. Twenty-five kilometres further east is Everland, a huge amusement park.
MISTER TOILET
Although Suwon’s sightseeing potential is limited, it does boast what may be the world’s greatest concentration of public toilets – they all have names, and some are even marked on tourist maps. This concept was the brainchild of Sim Jae-deok, aka “Mister Toilet”, who has even had his house custom-built to resemble a giant loo. Sim claims to have been born in a public restroom, but transcended these humble beginnings to become mayor of Suwon, and a member of the National Assembly. He then went on to create, and declare himself head of, the World Toilet Organization (the other WTO). Undoubtedly spurred on by his team’s debatable finding that the average human being spends three years of their life on the toilet, Sim set out to improve his home city’s facilities for the World Cup in 2002, commissioning dozens of individually designed public toilets. They’re still around today, with features including skylights, mountain views or piped classical music, though such refinement is sadly sullied by the baskets of used toilet paper discarded throne-side.
Hwaseong fortress
화성 • Daily 9am–6pm • W1000, or free out of hours; ticket also includes Hwaseong Haenggung; archery W2000 for 10 arrows • Buses #2-2, #11 and any beginning with #13, #16 or #50 from Suwon train station; #36 from bus terminal
Central Suwon has just one notable sight – Hwaseong fortress, whose gigantic walls wend their way around the city centre. Completed in 1796, the complex was built on the orders of King Jeongjo, one of the Joseon dynasty’s most famous rulers, in order to house the remains of his father, Prince Sado. Sado never became king, and met an early end in Seoul’s Changgyeonggung Palace at the hands of his own father, King Yeongjo; it may have been the gravity of the situation that spurred Jeongjo’s attempts to move the capital away from Seoul.
Towering almost 10m high for the bulk of its course, the fortress wall rises and falls in a 5.7km-long stretch, most of which is walkable, the various peaks and troughs marked by sentry posts and ornate entrance gates. From the higher vantage points you’ll be able to soak up superb views of the city, though you’ll often have your reverie disturbed by screaming aircraft from the nearby military base. Most visitors start their wall walk at Paldalmun (팔달문), a gate at the lower end of the fortress, exuding a well-preserved magnificence now diluted by its position in the middle of a traffic-filled roundabout. From here there’s a short but steep uphill path to Seonammun, the western gate.
Hwaseong Haenggung
화성행궁 • Daily 9am–6pm • Martial arts displays Tues–Sun at 11am; traditional dance and music performances April–Nov Sat & Sun at 2pm • Entry included in fortress ticket
In the centre of the area bounded by the fortress walls is Hwaseong Haenggung, once a government office, then a palace, and now a fine place to amble around; its pink walls are punctuated by the green lattice frames of windows and doors, which overlook dirt courtyards from where you can admire the fortress wall that looms above. The building hosts a daily martial arts display and occasional performances of traditional dance and music.
Korean Folk Village
한국
민속촌 • Generally daily 9.30am–6pm; farmers dance at
11am & 2pm; tightrope-walk at 11.30am & 2.30pm;
horseriding at 11.30am & 3pm; wedding ceremony at
12pm & 4pm • W15,000 • koreanfolk.co.kr • Free shuttle buses (30min)
from Suwon station at 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm
(returning at 2pm, 3.30pm & 4.30pm), or take regular
city bus #10-5 or #37 (50min). From Seoul take bus
#5001-1 or #1560 from Gangnam station (50min), or #5500
from Jonggak station (1hr 20min)
This re-creation of a traditional Korean Folk Village has become one of the most popular day-trips for foreign visitors to Seoul, its thatch-roofed houses and dirt paths evoking the sights, sounds and some of the more pleasant smells of a bygone time, when farming was the mainstay of the country. Its proximity to the capital makes this village by far the most-visited of the many such facilities dotted around the country, which tends to diminish the authenticity of the experience. Nevertheless, the riverbank setting and its old-fashioned buildings are impressive, though the emphasis is squarely on performance, with tightrope-walking and horseriding shows taking place regularly throughout the day. Traditional wedding ceremonies provide a glimpse into Confucian society, with painstaking attention to detail including gifts of live chickens wrapped up in cloth like Egyptian mummies. Don’t miss the farmers’ dance, in which costumed performers prance around in highly distinctive ribbon-topped hats amid a cacophony of drums and crashes – quintessential Korea.
Everland
에버렌드 • Daily, usually 9.30am–9pm • W46,000, W38,000
after 3pm, W20,000 after 5pm; discount and combination
tickets often available on website • everland.com
• Bus from Suwon train station departs on the half-hour
(around 1hr). From Seoul, bus #5700 from the Dong-Seoul
bus terminal via Jamsil subway station (1hr 10min), or
#5002 from Gangnam subway station, via Yangjae (45min);
more expensive daily shuttles (50min; W12,000) run from
Hongdae at 9am, from City Hall at 9.30am & from
Jongno 3-ga at 9.40am (returning at 6pm & 9pm); or
take the Everline, a spur running from the Bundang line
(around 2hr in total)
Everland is a colossal theme park that ranks as one of the most popular domestic tourist attractions in the country – male or female, young or old, it’s hard to find a hangukin (Korean person) who hasn’t taken this modern-day rite of passage. Most are here for the fairground rides, and the park has all that a roller-coaster connoisseur could wish for. Other attractions include a zoo (which features a safari zone that can be toured by bus, jeep or even at night), a speedway track, a golf course, and the surprisingly good Hoam Museum, which contains a few excellent examples of Buddhist art, and some interesting French sculpture in an outdoor garden.
Caribbean Bay
케리비언 베이 • Daily, usually 9.30am–6pm; outdoor section June–Aug only • W35,000, W30,000 after 2.30pm; discount and combination tickets often available on website
The most popular part of the theme park is Caribbean Bay, with a year-round indoor zone containing several pools, a sauna and a short river that you can float down on a tube, as well as massage machines and relaxation capsules. The outdoor section with its man-made beach is what really draws the summer crowds. Other facilities include an artificial surfing facility, and a water bobsleigh, which drops you the height of a ten-floor building in just ten seconds.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: SUWON AND AROUND
By train and subway Within walking distance of the fortress, Suwon’s main train station handles both national rail and Seoul subway trains (line 1), though this splits south of Seoul. The train from Seoul is quicker (30min) and far more comfortable than the subway (1hr), though it’s more expensive.
Transport cards Seoul transport cards can be used for buses or subway trains in Suwon.
Tourist information The main information office is currently being moved – it will eventually be in or around the train station. A smaller branch office is visible from Hwaseong Haenggung.
ACCOMMODATION
Although accommodation in Suwon is markedly cheaper than similar places in Seoul, most travellers visit on day-trips from the capital. There are plenty of motels in the area bounded by the fortress wall, though it’s one of the seediest parts of the city. True budget-seekers can make use of an excellent jjimjilbang just off Rodeo Street (W7000).
Central 센터럴 호텔 Gyodong 1-2 031
246 0011, suwoncentral.com. In an
excellent location for the fortress, and not too
run-down for a Korean tourist hotel. The rooms
are reasonably good value and have cable TV; a
small breakfast is also thrown in for free, but
the bar-filled street outside can get noisy at
night. W77,000
Hwaseong Guesthouse 화성
게스트하우스 Jeongjoro 801-gil 11
031 245 6226, hsguesthouse.com.
Central Suwon’s first hostel is decent enough,
if a little sterile – though the dorms have no
a/c (it’s fine in winter thanks to underfloor
heating). The big plus here is the location,
smack bang in the centre of the fortress area.
Dorm beds W18,000, doubles W30,000
Ramada Plaza 라마다프라자 Jungbudaero 150
031 230 0001, ramadaplazasuwon.com.
Suwon’s best hotel, though in an uninteresting
corner of the city, attracts well-heeled
visitors – primarily Europeans on business – and
offers all the comfort you’d expect. Some of the
suites are stunning, and even standard rooms
have been designed with care. W220,000
EATING
Suwon is famous for a local variety of galbi, whereby the regular meat dish is given a salty seasoning. You will more than likely find something appealing on Rodeo Street, where the city’s youth flocks to in the evening to take advantage of the copious cheap restaurants.
Bonsuwon Galbi 본수원 갈비 Uman 2-dong 103-1
031 211 8434.
Around the back of Hotel Central is what may well be the best galbi restaurant in the city. The succulent
meat doesn’t come cheap (at least W25,000 per
portion), but is worth it for the chance to try
Suwon’s local take on Korea’s most pyromaniacal
eating experience. Daily
11.30am–8.30pm.
Yechon 예촌
Namchangdong 132-1
031 254 9190.
It’s retro to the max at this little hidey-hole
near Paldalmun, a folk-styled establishment
serving savoury pancakes known as jeon (전)
in many different styles (from W10,000), as well
as superb makgeolli from Jeonju, in the southwest of the
country. Tues–Sun
3.30pm–midnight.
Yeonpo Galbi 연포
갈비 Buksudong 25-4
031 255 1337. In
a quiet area just inside the fortress wall lies
the best restaurant in the area. The galbi meat is expensive (from W33,000), but
cheaper noodle dishes are available: before 3pm
you can get a huge jeongsik (set meal) for W20,000, which includes
several small fish and vegetable dishes. Daily 9am–9pm.
Yangsu-ri
양수리
A tranquil village surrounded by mountains and water, YANGSU-RI sits at the confluence of the Namhangang and Bukhangang, two rivers that merge to create the Hangang, which pours through Seoul. The village has long had a reputation as a popular spot for extra-marital affairs – a fact made evident by its large number of seedy motels – though in recent years its natural charm has also started to draw in an ever-increasing number of families, students and curious foreign visitors.
The focus of the village is a small island, with farmland taking up much of its interior. A pleasant walking or cycling track skirts the perimeter – the stretch to the south of the island is particularly enjoyable, with the very southern tip being a spectacular spot to watch the sunset.
ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND: YANGSU-RI
By subway Yangsu is a stop on the Jungang line, which starts in Yongsan – the journey takes around an hour. It’s a 15min walk to the island from Yangsu station, though there’s also a bus. You can also access the island from Gukcheon, the station immediately west of Yangsu – from here, simply find the bridge, and walk across.
By bike Though it may be more than 35km from central Seoul, Yangsu-ri is a popular bike trip from the capital, and is certainly within day-trip distance. You can also rent bikes at Yangsu-ri itself: there’s a booth immediately outside Yangsu station, and another near Gukcheon station. Cycling the island’s perimeter is very pleasant, and the track even continues way down to the southeast of the peninsula.
EATING
Gelateria Panna 빤나
Yangsu-ri 649-5
031 775 4904.
Seoul’s best ice cream can be found here in
Yangsu-ri – the couple that run this tiny place
lived in Milan for a decade, where they learned
how to make some kick-ass gelato (W3500 for a
cup). The flavours change daily – the ginger and
vanilla are particularly tasty – and they also
make a mean espresso. It’s in the village, just
south of the main road. Daily except Wed 11am–8pm.
Gongreungdong
Myeolchiguksu 겅릉동 멸치국수 Yangsu-ri 565-11
031 772 1560.
The cold, spicy noodles (비빔국수; W4500) at this simple
sit-on-the-floor joint are just the thing after
a summer walk; there are warmer noodle broths
available too, and portions are huge. It’s on
the main road heading across the island, near
the bridge on the western side. Thurs–Tues
11am–8pm.
Gongju
공주
Presided over by the large fortress of Gongsanseong,
small, sleepy GONGJU is one
of Korea’s most charming cities, and the best place to see
relics from the Baekje dynasty that it ruled as capital in
the fifth and sixth centuries. Once known as Ungjin, Gongju
became the second capital of the realm in 475, but only held
the seat of power for 63 years before it was passed to
Buyeo, a day’s march to the southwest. Today, the city is
largely devoid of bustle, clutter and chain stores, and
boasts a number of wonderful sights, including a hilltop
fortress and a museum containing a fine collection of
Baekje jewellery. It is also home to some excellent
restaurants, and hosts the Baekje
Cultural Festival ( baekje.org) each
September/early October, with colourful parades and
traditional performances in and around the city.
Gongsanseong
공산성 • Ungjinno 280 • Daily: summer 9am–6pm; winter 9am–5pm • Changing of the Guard April–June, Sept & Oct daily at 2pm • W1500
For centuries, Gongju’s focal point has been the hilltop fortress of Gongsanseong, whose 2.6km-long perimeter wall was built from local mud in Baekje times, before receiving a stone upgrade in the seventeenth century. It’s possible to walk the entire circumference of the wall, a flag-pocked, up-and-down course that occasionally affords splendid views of Gongju and its surrounding area. The grounds inside are worth a look too, inhabited by striped squirrels and riddled with paths leading to a number of carefully painted pavilions. Of these, Ssangsujeong has the most interesting history – where this now stands, a Joseon-dynasty king named Injo (r.1623–49) once hid under a couple of trees during a peasant-led rebellion against his rule; when this was quashed, the trees were made government officials, though sadly they’re no longer around to lend their leafy views to civil proceedings. Airy, green Imnyugak, painted with meticulous care, is the most beautiful pavilion; press on further west down a small path for great views of eastern Gongju. Down by the river there’s a small temple, a refuge to monks who fought the Japanese in 1592, and on summer weekends visitors can dress up as a Baekje warrior and shoot off a few arrows.
Tomb of King Muryeong
무령왕릉 • Ungjindong 57 • Daily 9am–6pm • W1500
West over the creek from Gongsanseong, the Tomb of King Muryeong is one of many regal burial groups dotted around the country from the Three Kingdoms period, but the only Baekje mound whose occupant is known for sure. Muryeong, who ruled for the first quarter of the sixth century, was credited with strengthening his kingdom by improving relations with China and Japan; some accounts suggest that the design of Japanese jewellery was influenced by gifts that he sent across the sea. His gentle green burial mound was discovered by accident in 1971 during a civic construction project – after fifteen centuries, Muryeong’s tomb was the only one that hadn’t been looted, and it yielded thousands of pieces of jewellery that provided a fascinating insight into the craft of the Baekje people. All the tombs have now been sealed off for preservation, but a small exhibition hall contains replicas of Muryeong’s tomb and the artefacts found within.
Gongju Hanok Village
공주 한옥 마을 • Pungnamdong 15–11 • Daily 24hr • Free
A short walk from the regal tombs, Gongju Hanok Village is a fairly decent re-creation of a Baekje-era village – though one complete with café, restaurants and a convenience store. Unlike its counterpart in Seoul, this is a tourist construct rather than a functional part of the city; nevertheless, it makes for good camera fodder, and you may find yourself tempted to stay for a meal, or even overnight.
Gongju National Museum
공주 국립 박물관 • Ungjindong 360 • Tues–Sun 9am–6pm • Free
In a quiet wooded area by the turn of the river, Gongju National Museum is home to many of the treasures retrieved from Muryeong’s tomb. Much of the museum is devoted to jewellery, and an impressive collection of Baekje bling reveals the dynasty’s penchant for gold, silver and bronze. Artefacts such as elaborate golden earrings show an impressive attention to detail, but manage to be dignified and restrained in their use of shape and texture. The highlight is the king’s flame-like golden headwear, once worn like rabbit ears on the royal scalp, and now one of the most important symbols not just of Gongju, but of the Baekje dynasty itself. Elsewhere in the museum exhibits of wood and clay show the dynasty’s history of trade with Japan and China.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: GONGJU
By bus Direct buses from the express bus terminal in Seoul arrive at Gongju’s bus terminal, just north of the Geumgang River; you can walk from here to all the main sights, though taxi rides are cheap.
Information The main tourist information centre
( 041 856 7700; daily: summer
9am–6pm; winter 9am–5pm) is beneath
Gongsanseong, and usually has helpful,
English-speaking staff.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Gongju has a poor selection of accommodation, with motels centred in two areas: north of the river, to the west of the bus terminal, is a bunch of new establishments (including a couple of cheesy replica “castles”), while a group of older cheapies lies south of the river across the road from Gongsanseong. The latter is a quainter and more atmospheric area, and slightly closer to the sights, but the newer rooms are far more comfortable.
Hanok
Gongju 한옥
공주 Ungjindong 337
041 840 8900. A
pretty little faux hamlet of traditional wooden
hanok housing, sitting in calm isolation
between the tombs and museum. Though recently
constructed, the buildings feel authentic
enough, and are heated from beneath by burning
wood; they’re spartan, for sure, but the
location is relaxing, and the experience unique.
W50,000
Hotel Kumgang 호텔
금강 Singwandong 595-8
041 852 1071.
The only official hotel in town, though in
reality it’s a less-seedy-than-average motel
with a few twins and triples. However, it has
friendly staff, spacious bathrooms,
internet-ready computer terminals in most rooms
and a moderately priced bar-restaurant on the
second floor, and should suffice for all but the
fussiest travellers. W50,000
EATING
Geumganggwan 금강관 Ungjindong 337
041 840 8900.
The best and most rustic of the restaurants
around the Hanok Gongju complex, featuring suitably
traditional platters of Korean food – there’s no
à la carte menu, but sets start at W18,000.
Daily
10am–8pm.
Gomanaru 고마나루 Geumseongdong 184-4
041 857 9999.
This unassuming restaurant is, quite simply, one
of Korea’s most enjoyable places to eat. Here
W15,000 per head (minimum two) will buy a huge
ssam-bap (쌈밤), which features a
tableful of side dishes, and more than a dozen
kinds of leaves to eat them with; there are a
few choices for the centrepiece of the meal,
though the barbecued duck is highly recommended.
An extra W5000 will see the whole meal covered
with edible flowers – absolute heaven. Daily 9am–10pm.