IN THE UK, GAUGE IS KNOWN AS tension, a term that accurately reflects many crocheters’ thoughts on the subject! Gauge is important, however, so let’s take a moment to understand the concept of gauge and how to get it.
Q Exactly what is gauge?
A Gauge is simply a description of how many stitches and rows a particular stitch pattern has within a certain area.
Q What determines gauge?
A Gauge is dependent on a number of factors, including hook size, yarn size, your individual way of handling hook and yarn, and even your mood at a particular moment!
Q How is gauge stated?
A Gauge may be expressed in stitches and rows per inch, or in stitches and rows per 4” (10 cm), with a suggested hook size. Sometimes the row gauge is omitted.
For example: 24 stitches and 28 rows = 4″ (10 cm) in single crochet with J/10 (6.0 mm) hook
A gauge may also be stated in terms of complete multiples or motifs.
For example: Rounds 1-3 of granny square = 3″ (7.6 cm) with H/8 (5.0 mm) hook
or
Two pattern repeats = 7′ (17.7 cm) with H/8 (5.0 mm) hook
Q Should I always use the hook size that is given in the pattern?
A No, but it’s a good starting point. It is the size the designer used to get the stated gauge, but every individual’s handling of yarns and hooks varies. Even when using identical hooks and yarns, two crocheters can get very different gauges. If you need to change hook size to obtain a stated gauge, please do so. That does not mean that you are right and the gauge statement is wrong, but just illustrates the fact that gauge is achieved in a wide variety of ways.
Q How do I figure out what my gauge is?
A You’ll need to make and measure a gauge swatch: a small piece of fabric made using the same yarn and hook you plan to use for your project.
Q How big should my gauge swatch be?
A Ideally, a swatch should be no less than 4″ (10 cm) across; 6″ (15.2 cm) or more is better. The thicker the yarn, the bigger the swatch you need. The finest thread crochet swatches can be somewhat smaller.
If you are working a stitch pattern with multiples, you’ll need to make the swatch big enough to encompass at least one multiple.
SEE ALSO: Page 117, for multiples.
Q How do I make a gauge swatch?
A Start with enough chains to make an adequately sized swatch, taking care to work the chain loosely. Be sure to adjust the number of stitches to fit any stitch pattern multiples.
Begin stitching, using the stitch pattern given in the gauge statement and the same hook and yarn you plan to use for the project. Different hooks, even those of the same size, handle yarn differently. Even different colors of the same yarn may work up to different gauges! Because the same yarn in different colors can yield different gauges, use all the colors in the same way you plan to use them in the finished product, if you are using more than one color.
Work in the same way the project requires (in the round or back and forth), unless otherwise stated in the pattern. Crochet at least 2″ (5 cm), then measure to see if you are anywhere close to the desired gauge. If not, stop stitching. End off and begin with a different size hook on a new swatch. If you are close, continue stitching until your piece is about 6″ (15.2 cm) long.
Q How do I measure stitch gauge?
A Place the swatch flat on a table. (Voice of Experience: Do use a flat surface, not your leg or the sofa cushion, as these surfaces aren’t really flat.) Place a ruler on top of the swatch. (A ruler is preferable to a tape measure because it lies flat and doesn’t stretch.) Measuring from the 1″ (2.5 cm) mark, count the number of stitches to the 5″ (12.5 cm) mark (that is 4″ [10 cm] worth of stitches). Don’t count the outer stitch or two on either edge and don’t measure the first two rows or the last row, as these edge stitches are often uneven or distorted. If you don’t have 4″ (10 cm) worth of stitches, use what you have. The more stitches you can count over a longer distance, the more accurate your results will be. Divide the number of stitches by the number of inches for your gauge per inch.
measuring a swatch
A The technique is the same as for stitch gauge, but place the ruler vertically rather than horizontally on the swatch.
Q What should I do if my gauge doesn’t match the gauge given in the instructions?
A If you did not get the gauge you wanted or expected, do not fiddle with the swatch to make it conform to your wishes, no matter how tempting! Instead, repeat the process, substituting hook sizes as necessary, until you are confident that you have determined the correct hook size to give you the gauge you need.
Q What if I have too many stitches and rows per inch?
A Switch to a larger hook to loosen up the work, which will give you fewer stitches per inch.
Q What if I have too few stitches and rows per inch?
A Switch to a smaller hook to make the stitches tighter, which will result in more stitches per inch.
Q What if I have the right number of stitches per inch, but not the right number of rows per inch?
A It may not matter much, if you are close. If the pattern calls for you to work to a certain number of inches before shaping, you may be able to adjust the length of your piece without worrying about row counts.
Row gauge does matter in some cases. If you are working a stitch pattern with a large row repeat as well as a stitch multiple, the placement of the rows becomes more important. For example, if the stitch pattern tells you to start shaping at Row X, row gauge matters.
If you really need to match the row gauge, try going up or down hook sizes. Sometimes this will change the row count but will not perceptibly change the stitch count. If that doesn’t work, try switching brands or types of hook, using the same size that you used to get the correct stitch gauge. If the stitch pattern allows, you might be able to adjust the row gauge by working a row of extended stitches (edc vs. dc, for example) every row or every other row.
You may also be able to adjust your row gauge by making the loop you pull up through the stitch slightly longer or shorter than you normally would. However, you will have to pay attention and remember to do this consistently throughout the entire piece in order to maintain a constant row gauge.
SEE ALSO: Pages 106–7, for extended stitches.
Q What should I do with my swatch after it’s finished?
A Stop and write down what hook you used. Be specific: for example, “aluminum Susan Bates H/8 (5 mm).” Also note the name and color of the yarn, how many stitches and rows your swatch has, and what the stitch pattern is (or where it can be found in a book).
If you’re close to having your desired gauge, block your swatch as you will your finished project, then measure again to make sure the gauge hasn’t changed.
SEE ALSO: Pages 237–45, for blocking.
Q Why should I block my swatch?
A Sometimes washing and blocking changes the gauge. Unless you plan never to launder your finished item, you’ll need to know how these processes affect the fabric.
If it’s a multicolored item, you also need to know if the colors will run. And you need to know all this before you spend hours on stitching.
Q Why should I take measurements before and after blocking my swatch?
A The “after blocking” gauge is the one that matters the most, because that is what the finished gauge will be. Imagine how you would feel if you stitched a whole sweater and found out the gauge changed after you washed it!
Be sure to note the gauge before blocking, and label it before washing it. This is the gauge that you’ll have while you are stitching the fabric. Next, block your swatch and make note of the finished gauge. It is this finished gauge that needs to match the gauge stated in your pattern, unless the pattern instructions say otherwise.
Q Do I rip out my swatch now that I have gotten the right gauge?
A I wouldn’t — at least not immediately. If you are running short of yarn at the end of your project, you may need to rip it out, but in the meantime, keep it around for reference. You may need to recheck your gauge down the road. Some yarns aren’t readily ripped out and reused, so attempting to unravel the swatch would be pointless. When you’ve collected enough swatches, you may decide to make a patchwork afghan, bag, or other item.
Q How should I measure a thick-and-thin yarn? Aren’t the results likely to differ from place to place?
A If you are using a thick-and-thin yarn, or have a complex stitch pattern, measure again elsewhere on the same swatch and compare the results. If the gauges are different, take an average.
Q Why do published patterns always remind me to “take time to check gauge”?
A It does save time to get the correct gauge. How long does it take to do a really good gauge swatch? And how long does it take to make a sweater, put it together, try it on, find it doesn’t fit, rip it out, and re-stitch it? Case closed.
Q You’re kidding. I have to do all this preparation every time?
A It’s not that bad! The effort you put forth on the swatch end of things is in direct proportion to the time, money, and effort you put into the finished product. Getting the correct gauge is crucial to the success of many crochet projects, but not all. Only you can determine how much work you are willing to do in the early stages.
If you are making a scrap yarn afghan out of bits and pieces and don’t care how big it is, just dive right in without swatching. Similarly, if you are making a potholder or doily, don’t worry about it. On the other hand, if you are making a sweater that needs to fit a real body, it is very important to get the right gauge. In that case, time spent on the swatch is time well spent. Let’s look at an example of a sweater.
Gauge in instructions: 4 sc per 1″ (2.5 cm)
Desired finished bust measurement: 42″
You therefore need 4 sts × 42″ = 168 stitches for the circumference of the sweater. If you are even just a half stitch off per inch (2.5 cm), it can make a huge difference. Here are some examples:
If your gauge is 3½ sc per inch (2.5 cm) and you follow the pattern instructions as written, your finished sweater will be 168 sts ÷ 3½ = 48″ around, or 6″ (15 cm) too large!
Q If I don’t care about exact measurements, are getting gauge and blocking my stitch necessary?
A Maybe. For instance, if you are working with several different colors, washing a swatch can alert you to the possibility that colors may bleed. Also, if your gauge is off you may find yourself short of yarn. Stitching at a different gauge uses up yarn at a different rate.
Q Help! I made a bunch of swatches but didn’t label them. How can I tell them apart?
A It’s probably too late for this, but in the future put a paper hang tag on each swatch as you work it. Note all the information pertinent to that swatch on the tag, and you’ll thank yourself for your organizational skills!
Q What if I can’t obtain the gauge that is called for in the pattern instructions?
A Sometimes, no matter what you do, you just can’t match the pattern’s gauge. If you’ve tried everything — from changing hook sizes and/or brands to checking to make sure you are following the instructions correctly — you may have to go with your gauge and make adjustments accordingly.
For example: The pattern gauge is 16 sc = 4″ (10 cm), with 80 stitches in the first row to make a fabric 20″ (50 cm) wide.
Your gauge is 15 sc = 4″ (10 cm), or 3.75 sc = 1″ (2.5 cm).
15 sc ÷ 16 sc = .9375
(your gauge) ÷ (pattern gauge) = (conversion factor)
80 sts × .9375 = 75sts
(pattern number) × (conversion factor) = (revised number)
Check the math:
75 sts ÷ 3.75 sc per inch = 20″ (50 cm) wide
Q How do I adjust for a different gauge?
A If your gauge is just a little bit off from the pattern’s gauge (or if you like the fabric you get with your gauge more than with the given gauge), you can adjust the stitch numbers throughout the pattern. First, figure the conversion factor by dividing your new gauge by the gauge given in the pattern. Every time the pattern gives you a number of stitches, multiply the number by the conversion factor.
Q Why do the instructions give two gauges?
A Different stitch patterns result in different gauges. If a project has more than one stitch pattern, the directions specify gauge for each and you need gauge swatches for each.
Q Do I have to match the gauge on the yarn band?
A No. The gauge information given on the yarn band is just a starting point to give you an idea of what weight/size/category yarn you have and what an appropriate hook size might be for that yarn. You might find you are happy with fabric you make using that gauge, or you may find you want to adjust it to suit your preferences. If you are following a published pattern, it’s more important to match the gauge given in the instructions than the gauge on the yarn band.
Q The gauge on my project isn’t the same as on my swatch. Why is this, and should I worry?
A Ask yourself these questions:
Q Is it a problem that my gauge changes throughout my swatch?
A Yes. Try to keep an even tension on the yarn while you are working. Be sure you are holding the yarn the same way throughout. Keep working until your swatch looks even; it may take a while to become accustomed to the stitch pattern and yarn. Once you are satisfied with the uniformity of your stitching, continue working until the swatch is large enough to measure over the evenly stitched portion of the fabric.
Q I put down my afghan for a year, and when I came back to it, my gauge had changed. What happened?
A Life. You may be more relaxed or more tense than you were when you last worked on it. You may have become more confident in your technique. You may not have used the same hook. Just change to whatever hook size you need to match your new stitches to your previous work.